336 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd San Agustín 235-7 Playa Olímpica 255 239-41, 240 Playa Soledad 165 architecture 102-3, 175, 197 Playa Taroa 159 area codes 17, 311 Providencia 177 Armenia 211-13 Punta Gallinas 159 Arrecifes 151, 152 Punta Huína 252-3 art museums Riohacha 156 Bogotá 50 San Luis 171-2 Casa Museo Pedro Santa Catalina 177 Nel Gómez 187 Tolú 162 Museo Arquidiocesano de Arte Belalcázar, Sebastián de 220, 229, Religioso 111 280, 282 Museo de Antioquia 183 A Betancur, Belisario 284-5 Museo de Arte Colonial 47 bicycling 290, 317-18, see also abseiling 31, 100, 13 Museo de Arte del Banco de la mountain biking Acandí 166 República 47 Bogotá 51 accommodations 303-4, see also Museo de Arte Moderno 86 individual locations (Barranquilla) 138 birds 295 language 322-3 Museo de Arte Moderno (Bogotá) bird-watching 30 activities 28-32, see also individual 50 activities books 30, 295 Museo de Arte Moderno Los Llanos 76 aguardiente 320 (Cartagena) 121 Minca 145-6 air travel 314-15, 316-17, 317 Museo de Arte Moderno de altitude sickness 306 Bucaramanga 107 Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Amacayacu 270 Alto de la Cueva 98-9 Museo de Arte Moderno de Parque Ucumarí 211 Alto de las Piedras 237 Medellín 187 Playa Mecana 253 Alto de Lavapatas 236 Museo de Arte Moderno La Tertulia 221 Recinto del Pensamiento 203 Amazon Basin 35, 262-74, 263, 9 Museo de Arte Moderno Ramírez Reserva Ecológica accommodations 262 Villamizar 111 Río Blanco 203 climate 262 arts 291-3, see also individual arts Río Claro 199 food 262 ATMs 17, 308 Río Yavarí 272 highlights 263 AUC (Autodefensas Unidas de Santuario de Flora y Fauna Los travel seasons 262 ) 284, 286 Flamencos 157 Andrés Carne de Res 62 Santuario Otún Quimbaya 210 animals 295, see also birds, bird- boat travel 318, see also canoeing, watching, dolphin-watching, B kayaking, white-water rafting Bahía Solano 251-2 endangered species, turtles, boat trips whale-watching, wildlife bargaining 277, 309 dangers 132 aquariums 10, 102-6, 103 Guatapé 196 Isla Palma 163-4 Barranquilla 136-9. 12, 21 Islas del Rosario 134 Islas de San Bernardo 163-4 baseball 290 Lago Calima 228-9 Islas del Rosario 134 Batería de San José 133-4 245-6 Medellín 187 bathrooms 311 Panama, to 132 archaeological museums beaches 19 San Andrés 172 Museo Arqueológico, San Agustín Cabo San Juan de la Guía 151 236 Bogotá 33, 38-78, 40, 44-5, 52, Capurganá 165 56-7, 8 Museo Arqueológico, Tierradentro Guachalito 256-7 241 accommodations 38, 53-5 Isla de Barú 134, 19 Museo Arqueológico Calima 228 activities 50-1 Johnny Cay Natural Regional Museo Arqueológico la Merced 220 attractions 42-50 Park 171 Museum of Paleontology & Cerro de Monserrate 49 La Boquilla 135 Archaeology 104 children, travel with 51 La Miel 165 archaeological sites climate 38 Nuquí 255 Alto de los Ídolos 236 courses 51 Palomino 149-150 10, 153-6, 10 drinking 62-4 Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Estación Astronómica 91 emergencies 68 Tayrona 9, 150-1, 9 entertainment 62, 64-6 Playa Blanca (Boyaca) 84 festivals & events 51-3 Playa Blanca (Islas del Rosario) 000 Map pages food 38, 39, 58-61 134-5 000 Photo pages highlights 40 Playa del Pilón 158 337 history 41 camping 303 Catedral de la Sagrada Familia internet access 69 Cañaveral 151-2 106-7 internet resources 39 Caño Cristales 11, 77-8, 11 Catedral de Manizales 200 itineraries 41 canoeing 30 Catedral Metropolitana (Barranquilla) 138 medical services 69 canopying 32 Catedral Metropolitana safety 68 Amazon Basin 265 (Medellín) 187 shopping 66-8 Guatapé 196 Catedral Primada 43 tourist information 69 Los Yarumos 203 Convento & Iglesia de San Pedro tours 51 Río Claro 199 Clave 120-1 INDEX travel seasons 38 canyoning 106 Iglesia de la Ermita 221 travel to/from 70-1 Capurganá 164-7 Iglesia de la Merced 220 travel within 71-3 car travel 319 Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de la B-D visas 70 Caribbean Coast 34, 115-67, 118 Paz 94 Bolívar, Simón 83, 281-2, 281 accommodations 115 Iglesia de San Antonio 220 books 276 beaches 116 Iglesia de San Francisco 49, 82, 221 bird-watching 30, 295 climate 115 Iglesia de San Ignacio 48 geography 295 food 115, 116 Iglesia de Santo Domingo 82, 121 health 306 highlights 118 Iglesia del Carmen 86 history 280, 281, 283, 284, 285, internet resources 116 Iglesia Museo de Santa Clara 43 286 travel seasons 115 Iglesia Parroquial 85-6 sustainability 78, 294 Carnaval de Barranquilla 12, 20, 116, Iglesia y Convento de Santa Clara border crossings 315-16 139, 12, 21 La Rea 81 Brazil 269, 315 Carnaval de Blancos y Negros 20, Nuestra Senora de la Candelaria 95 Ecuador 239, 247, 315-16 245 Salt Cathedral of Zipaquirá 39 Panama 132, 167, 316 Cartagena 6, 117-133, 122-3, 133, 3, Santuario de Las Lajas 247 Peru 268 6-7, 21, 25 cinema 22, 53 114, 316 accommodations 126-8 Ciudad Perdida 10, 153-6, 10 Botero, Fernando 293 activities 126 climate 16, see also individual Boyacá 33, 79, 81-99, 80 attractions 120-6 regions accommodations 79 courses 126 cloud forest 75 climate 79 drinking 130 Isla Corota 245-6 food 79 food 128-30 Parque Natural Chicaque 75 highlights 80 shopping 131 Recinto del Pensamiento 203 travel seasons 79 tours 126 Reserva Ecológica Río Blanco 203 Bucaramanga 106-11, 108 travel to/from 132-3 cocaine 277, 284-6, 302 budget 16 Casa de Moneda 47 Coconuco 234 Buenaventura 249, 257-8 cash 308 coconut, house of 175 bullfighting 290 Castilletes 151 coffee 63, 204, 277, 284, 298, 306 bus travel 277, 316, 318-19, 319-20 cathedrals, see churches & coffee farms, see haciendas & farms cathedrals bushwalking, see hiking colectivos 320 Cauca 229-43 business hours 304 consulates 305 caves 172, 199 Convento del Santo Ecce Homo 90-1 caving 87, 99 convents, see monasteries & C ceiling paintings 82 convents 158-9 cell phones 17, 311 Coquí 256 Cabo San Juan de la Guía 150, 151, Cerro de las Tres Cruces 221 costs 16, 304, 306 152-3 Cerro de Monserrate 49 courses 51, 221, see also language Cali 11, 35, 218-27, 222, 11 children, travel with 51, 311-12 courses accommodations 218 Chiquinquirá 92 credit cards 308 activities 221 chiva 320 culture 289-90 attractions 220-1 Chocó 251-7 currency 308 climate 218 churches & cathedrals customs regulations 304-5 courses 221 Basílica de la Candelaria 187 cycling, see bicycling, mountain biking drinking 225 Basílica de la Virgen de entertainment 225-6 Chiquinquirá 92 D festivals & events 221-3 Capilla del Sagrario 47 dance, see also salsa food 218, 224-5 Catedral (Cartagena) 123, 3 festivals 22, 53, 189, 221 shopping 226 Catedral de la Inmaculada dangers, see safety travel seasons 218 Concepción 102 travel to/from 227 Dapa 221 338 Darién 228-9 Cali 221-3 G departure tax 316 Carnaval de Barranquilla 12, 20, galleries, see art museums, museums Desierto de la Tatacoa 12, 241-2, 13 116, 139, 12, 21 García Márquez, Gabriel 292 displaced people 285 Carnaval de Blancos y Negros gardens, see parks & gardens 20, 245 diving 14, 29 Gaviotas 78 Congreso Nacional Bahía Solano 251 gay travelers 65, 306 Gastronómico 22, 231 Capurganá 165 geography 294, 295 Expoartesanías 53 Cartagena 126 Girón 110 INDEX Feria de Cali 22, 221-2 Isla Gorgona 260 gold 281 Feria de las Flores 22, 189 Isla Malpelo 261 gold museums Feria de Manizales 20, 201 Providencia 177, 180 Museo del Oro (Bogotá) 8, 48-9, 8 D-H Festival de Cine de Bogotá 22, 53 San Andrés 172, 180 Museo del Oro (Cali) 221 Festival de Jazz 53 Santa Marta 141 Museo del Oro (Pasto) 243-4 Festival de Música del Pacífico Taganga 146-7 Petronio Álvarez 21-2, 221 Museo del Oro (Santa Marta) 140 dolphin-watching 265, 271, 272 Festival de Verano 53 Museo del Oro Quimbay 211 Drake, Francis 117 Festival Iberoamericano de Teatro Museo del Oro y Arqueología 123 drinks 302, 306, 324-5, see also 20, 53, 293 Golfo de Uraba 166 aguardiente Festival Internacional de Jazz y Guachalito 256-7 driving, see car travel Músicas del Mundo 22, 189 Guane 104 drugs 285, 286, 298, 301, see also Festival Internacional de Tango 189 Guapi 259-60 cocaine Festival Internacional de Teatro Guatapé 196-7 22, 201 guerrillas & paramilitaries 283-8, see E Festival Mundial de Salsa 22, 221 also FARC economy 276, 277-8 Fiesta de Nuestra Señora de la Güicán 95-6 ecotourism 78, 270-2 Candelaria 20, 126 Hip Hop al Parque 53 El Cocuy 94-5 H El Fósil 91 Mardi Gras (Barranquilla), see Carnaval de Barranquilla haciendas & farms El Peñol de los Muertos 95 Reinado Nacional de Belleza 22, coffee farms 8, 200, 8 El Pico Natural Regional Park 177 126, 21 Hacienda Bambusa 213 El Valle 253-4 Rock al Parque 22, 53 Hacienda Guayabal 204-5, 8 El Zaino 151 Salsa al Parque 53 Hacienda Nápoles 190 electricity 305 Semana Santa (Mompox) 20 Hacienda Venecia 204 email services 307 Semana Santa (Pamploma) 113 Quinta de San Pedro Alejandrino embassies 305 Semana Santa (Popayán) 20, 231 140-1 emeralds 67, 296, 310 Semana Santa (Santa Fe de Recuca 214 emergencies 17, 325 Antioquia) 198 handicrafts 216 endangered species 296 filigree jewelry 137 courses 51 environmental issues 298, 302 films 276-7 shopping 66-8, 90, 310 Escobar, Pablo 190, 285-6 Finca Villa Martha 209 health 29, 306-7 Estación Astronómica Muisca 91 Finlandia 216 hiking 10, 15, 18, 28-9, 15 ethnic groups, see indigenous food 19, 306, see also individual Bahía Solano 251 cultures locations Cali 221 events, see festivals & events festivals 22, 231 Capurganá 165 exchange rates 17 fried ants 105 Cerro de Monserrate 49 language 323-5 Ciudad Perdida 10, 153-6 F prices 306 El Camino Real 104 FARC 276-7, 283-4, 287-8 seafood 116 Gran Salto de Candelas 84 farms, see haciendas & farms football, see soccer Güicán–El Cocuy Circuit Trek 97-9 Feria de Cali 22, 221-2 forts Km18–Dapa 21 Festival Iberoamericano de Teatro Batería de San José 133-4 Lago de Tota 84 20, 53, 293 Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas Pance 227-8 festivals & events 20-2 125 Páramo Ocetá 84 Alumbrado Navideño 22 Fuerte de San Fernando 133-4 Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Bogotá 51-3 Fuerte de San Sebastián del Amacayacu 270 Pastelillo 125 Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Fuerte de San Fernando 133-4 El Cocuy 6, 96-7, 7 000 Map pages Fuerzas Armadas Revolucionarias de Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) 000 Photo pages Colombia 276-7, 283-4, 287-8 Los Nevados 205 339 Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Muisca 75, 279 Cali 221 Tayrona 151 170-1, 290 Cartagena 126 Parque Natural Chicaque 75 Sinú 123 Medellín 188 Providencia 177 Tayrona 153, 154 San Gil 100 Recinto del Pensamiento 203 Tikuna 271 Las Murallas 120 Reserva Natural Acaime 216-17 U’wa people 95 legal matters 307 Santa Marta 141 Wayuu 158-9 lesbian travelers 65, 306 Santuario Otún Quimbaya 210 271 Leticia 263-9, 264 INDEX Valle de Cocora 216-17 insurance 307, 319 accommodations 266 Villa de Leyva 86 international money transfers 308-9 activities 264-5 history 279-88 internet access 307 attractions 264-5 H-M 20th century 283 internet resources 17, 39, 116 drinking 267 AUC (Autodefensas Unidas de accommodations 304 entertainment 267 Colombia) 284, 286 bird-watching 30 food 266-7 books 280, 281, 283, 284, health 307 safety 267 285, 286 history 287, 288 tours 265-6 cocaine & cartels 284-6 Ipiales 246-7 travel to/from 268-9 colonial era 280-1 Isla Corota 245-6 visas 268 displaced people 285 Isla de Barú 134, 19 literature 292, 296, see also books drug cartels 287 Isla Malpelo 261 Los Llanos 76 FARC 276-7, 283-4, 287-8 Isla Múcura 163 Los Yarumos 203 formation of political parties 282-3 Isla Palma 163-4 gold 281 Isla Santa Rosa (Peru) 270 M guerrillas & paramilitaries 283-8 Islas de San Bernardo 163-4 Macondo 146 Independence 281-2 Islas del Rosario 134, 19 malaria 307 internet resources 287, 288 itineraries 23-7, 41 Manizales 200-3 pre-Columbus Colombia 279 maps 307-8 Simón Bolívar 83, 281-2, 281 J Márquez, Gabriel García 48, 146 Spanish Conquest 279-80 Jardín Botánico del Quindío 213 measures 303 Uribe, Álvaro 286-8 jeep travel 213 Medellín 14, 34, 182-95, 186, 188, hitchhiking 319 jewelry 137 191, 14 holidays 310 Jobí 256 accommodations 182, 189-91 Honda 77 Juanchaco 258-9 activities 188 horseback riding Jurubidá 256 attractions 183, 187 Laguna del Magdalena 237 climate 182 courses 188 Parque Natural Chicaque 75 K drinking 193 Providencia 177 kayaking 30, 258, 265, 270, 272 entertainment 193-4 Salento 215 kitesurfing 31-2, 126, 135, 228 San Agustín 237 festivals & events 189 San Gil 100 food 182, 191-3 Valle de Cocora 217 L internet access 195 Villa de Leyva 86 La Boquilla 135 medical services 195 hostels 303 La Candelaria 91-2 shopping 194 hot springs, see thermal springs La Chaquira 237 tourist information 195 hotels 304 La Guajira Peninsula 156 tours 188 Huila 229-43 La Piscina 151 travel seasons 182 hyperbaric chambers 29 Ladrilleros 258-9 travel to/from 195 Lago Calima 228 medical services 307 Lago de Tota 84 Minca 145-6 I Laguna de Guatavita 74-5 mobile phones 17, 311 immigration 312, 314 Laguna de Iguaque 91 Mocoa 239 Independence 281-2 Laguna de la Cocha 245-6 Mompox 137 indigenous cultures Laguna del Magdalena 237 monasteries & convents Cocoma 271 Laguna Verde 246 Convento de la Popa 125 folkore 253 language 16, 322-7, see also Convento del Santo 232 language courses Ecce Homo 90-1 Guane 104, 105 language courses 307 Monasterio de La Candelaria 91-2 Kogi people 141 Bogotá 51 money 308-9 340 moneychangers 309 N highlights 250 Monguí 84 Nariño 243-8 travel seasons 249 Morromico 256 national parks & sanctuaries 18, painting 292-3 motorcycle-taxis 320 297-8 Palomino 149-50 motorcycle travel 319 El Pico Natural Regional Park 177 Pamplona 111-13, 112 moto-taxis 321 Isla Corota 245-6 Pance 227-8 mountain biking 32, 100, 215 Jardín Botánico del Pacifico 253 paragliding 32, 106, 107, 188 Muisca 75, 91 La Ciénega de Caimanera 162 paramilitaries 283-8 INDEX Mundo Amazónico 264 Parque Nacional del Chicamocha páramo ecosystem 84, 96 Museo del Oro (Bogotá) 8, 48-9, 8 106 parks & gardens museums 18, see also archaeological Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Jardín Botánico del Quindío 213 M-P Amacayacu 270 museums, art museums, gold Jardín Botánico (Medellín) 187 Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) museums Jardín Botánico (Santa Marta) 141 El Cocuy 6, 96-9, 7 Casa Colonial 111-12 Mundo Amazónico 264 Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) El Casa Cultural Gustavo Rojas Parque Arvi 187 Pinilla 82 Tuparro 76 Parque de la Gran Colombia 114 Casa de Don Juan de Vargas 82 Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Parque El Gallineral 100, 25 Casa de Moneda 47 Ensenada de Utría 254-5 Parque Simón Bolívar 50 Casa del Primer Congreso de las Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Provincias Unidas 85 227 Parque Arqueológico 236 Casa Museo de Antonio Nariño 85 Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Isla Parque Nacional del Café 214 Gorgona 260-1 Casa Museo de Antonio Ricaurte Parque Nacional del Chicamocha 106 85 Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Los Parque Nacional Natural Nevados 15, 205-7, 206, 15 Casa Museo de Luis Alberto Los Nevados map 206 Acuña 85 Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Old Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Providence McBean Lagoon 177 Casa Museo Mosquera 231 Amacayacu 270 Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Casa Museo Pedro Nel Gómez 187 Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) El Puracé 235 Cocuy 6, 96-9, 7 Convento & Iglesia de San Pedro Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Clave 120-1 Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Sierra de La Macarena 76 Ensenada de Utría 254-5 Museo Arqueológico l Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) a Merced 220 Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Tayrona 9, 150-3, 152-3, 9 Farallones de Cali 227 Museo Botero 43 Parque Ucumarí 210-11 Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Isla Museo Casa de Bolívar 106 Recinto del Pensamiento 203 Gorgona 260-1 Museo de Antropología 138 Reserva Ecológica Río Blanco 203 Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Los Museo de Caribe 138 Reserva Natural Acaime 216 Nevados 15, 205-7, 206, 15 Museo de Historia Natural 231 Reserva Natural Cañon de Río Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Museo del 20 de Julio 47 Claro 12, 199-200, 12 Old Providence McBean Lagoon Museo del Carmen 85 Santuario de Flora y Fauna de 177 Museo del Oro y Arqueología Iguaque 91 Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) (Cartagena) 123 Santuario de Flora y Fauna Los Puracé 235 Museo El Chicó 50 Flamencos 157 Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Museo Etnografico Amazónico Santuario de Flora y Fauna Malpelo Tayrona 9, 150-3, 152-3, 9 264-5 261 Parque Natural Chicaque 75 Museo Histórico Policia 47 Santuario Otún Quimbaya 210 Parque Ucumarí 210-11 Museo Militar 48 natural disasters 205, 295 passports 312, 314 Museo Nacional 50 Neiva 242 Pasto 243-5, 244 Museo Naval del Caribe 121 newspapers 303 Pereira 207-9 Museo Romantico 138 Norte de Santander 33, 79, 80, Piedra del Peñol 197 Palace of the Inquisition 120 111-14, 80 planning, see also individual regions Parque Explora 187 Nuquí 255-6 budgeting 16 Quinta de Bolívar 49 calendar of events 20-2 music 291 O Colombia basics 16-17 festivals 21-2, 53, 189, 221 opening hours 304 Colombia’s regions 33-5 musical instruments 161, 260 orientation of city streets 308, 309 internet resources 17 itineraries 23-7 transportation 17 P travel seasons 16, 20-2, 79 Pacific Coast 35, 249-61, 250 000 Map pages plants 296-7 accommodations 249 000 Photo pages Playa Blanca (Boyaca) 84 climate 249 341 Playa Blanca (Islas del Rosario) 134-5 drugs 301 handicrafts 66-8, 90, 310 Playa Mecana 253 guerrillas & paramilitaries 300 language 325 Playa Taroa 159 Isla Gorgona 261 pottery 89 police 301-2 Leticia 267 92-4, 93 politics 276-8 Los Llanos 76 Silvia 232 Popayán 229-34, 230 Manizales 202 smoking 303 poporo 141 road 319 snorkeling 29 population 276 Taganga 149 Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) INDEX postal services 309-10 theft 300 Tayrona 150 pottery 89 Salento 214-16 Playa Blanca 135 pre-Columbus Colombia 279 salsa 11, 22, 53, 221, 11 Providencia 177 P-T private parks & reserves 297-8 Salt Cathedral of Zipaquirá 39 San Andrés 171, 172 Providencia 14, 34, 168, 170, 176-81, San Agustín 9, 235-9, 236, 9, 285 soccer 278, 290 169, 178, 14 San Andrés 34, 168-76, 169, 171, 173 Bogotá 66 accommodations 168, 179-81 accommodations 168, 172-4 Cali 226 activities 177 activities 172 Cartagena 131 attractions 177 attractions 171-2 Medellín 194 festivals & events 179 climate 168 solo travelers 310 food 168, 179-81 entertainment 175-7 Southwest Colombia 35, 218, 229-48, 219 highlights 169 food 168, 174-5 accommodations 218 tours 177-9 highlights 169 climate 218 travel to/from 181 tours 172 food 218 public holidays 310 travel seasons 168 highlights 219 Puente de Boyacá 83 travel to/from 176 travel seasons 218 Puerto Nariño 270-2 San Andrés de Pisimbalá 240 sportfishing 251 Punta Gallinas 159-62 San Cipriano 259 sports 290, see also soccer, tejo San Francisco 166 stargazing San Gil 13, 99-102, 25 R Desierto de la Tatacoa 241-2 radio 303 Santa Catalina 177 Observatorio Astronómico Santa Cruz del Islote 163 rafting 30-1, 100, 199 (Bogotá) 48 rappelling 31, 100, 13 Santa Fe de Antioquia 197-9, 198 Observatorio Astronómico de la Ráquira 89 Santa Marta 139-45, 142 Tatacoa (Villavieja) 242 Recinto del Pensamiento 203 accommodations 141-3 street-naming convention 308, 309 religion 277 activities 141 74 Reserva Ecológica Río Blanco 203 attractions 140-1 surfing 254, 258 Reserva Natural Acaime 216 entertainment 144-5 sustainable travel, see ecotourism Reserva Natural Cañon de Río Claro food 143-4 Sutamarchán 91 12, 199-200, 12 tours 141 Reserva Natural Palmarí 272 travel to/from 145 T Reserva Natural Zacambú 273 Santander 33, 79, 99-111, 80 Tabatinga (Brazil) 269 Reserva Tanimboca 265 accommodations 79 Taganga 146-9, 147, 2-3 resorts 304 climate 79 Taroa 159 Río Claro 12, 199-200, 12 food 79 taxi travel 320-1 Río Yavarí 9, 272-4, 9 highlights 80 tejo 221, 277 Riohacha 156-8 Santuario de Flora y Fauna de telenovelas 292 robbery 300-1 Iguaque 91 telephone services 17, 311 rock climbing 31, 51 Santuario de Flora y Fauna Los Termales de Santa Roland Roots Bar 181 Flamencos 157 Santuario de Las Lajas 247-8 Rosa 209-10 Santuario Otún Quimbaya 210 Termales El Otoño 203-4 S Sapzurro 164-7 Termales San Vicente 210 safety 17, 300-2, 319 scuba diving, see diving Termales Tierra Viva 204 boat trips 132 sculpture 43, 292-3 theater 293 Bogotá 68 Semana Santa 20, 113, 198, 231 theft 300 bus travel 302 sex strike 290 theme parks Cali 226 shopping 310 Los Yarumos 203 Cartagena 131 emeralds 67, 310 Panaca 214 cocaine 302 filigree jewelry 137 Parque Nacional del Café 214 drink spiking 301 Reserva Tanimboca 265 342 thermal springs U Cascadas de Juan Curi 99-100 Agua Hirviendo 234 Uribe, Álvaro 286-8 Cascade del Tigre 254 Balneario de Santa Rosa thermals San Agustín area 237 209 weather 16, see also individual Coconuco 234 V regions vacations 310 Las Termales 257 websites, see internet resources Valle de Cocora 216-17 Termales Aguatibia 234 weights 303 Valledupar 160-1 Termales de Jurbidá 256 whale-watching 10, 31

INDEX vallenato 161 Termales de Santa Rosa 209-10 El Valle 253 Valley of the Sun 84 Termales El Otoño 203-4 Isla Gorgona 260 Vásquez de Arce y Ceballos, Termales San Vicente 210 Pacific Coast 249 Gregorio 42, 47, 197, 293 T-Z Termales Tierra Viva 204 Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Villa de Leyva 15, 83-90, 86, 15 Tierradentro 239-41, 240 Ensenada de Utría 254-5 accommodations 87-8 time 311 white-water rafting 30-1, 100, 199 activities 86 tipping 309 wildlife 19, 295, see also attractions 85-6 individual animals, plants toilets 311 drinking & entertainment 90 Caño Cristales 78 Tolú 162-3 festivals & events 87 endangered species 296 tourist information 312 food 88-90 Estación Septiembre 253-4 tours 316, 318 shopping 90 Fundación Maikuchiga 270 train travel 321 tourist information 90 Fundación Omacha 271 travel insurance 307 tours 86-7 Providencia 179 travel to/from Colombia 314-16 travel to/from 90 San Andrés 172 travel within Colombia 316-21, 325-6 Villa del Rosario 114 wildlife lodges 9 traveler’s checks 309 Villavicencio 76-7 windsurfing 31-2 trekking, see hiking Villavieja 242-3 women travelers 313 Tren Turisco Café y Azucar 221 Virgen Morenita de Güicán 95 work 313 Triganá 166 visas 312, see also passports 81-3 Volcán de Lodo El Totumo 135-6 Turbo 164 volcanoes Y turtles 295, 296 yellow fever 307 Nevado del Ruiz 205-6 Caño Cristales 78 Nevado del Tolima 207 El Valle 253-4 Volcán de Lodo El Totumo 135-6 Z Golfo de Uraba 166 Volcán 246 Zipaquirá 39, 73-4 Los Llanos 76 Volcán Puracè 235 ziplining, see canopying Parque Nacional Natural volunteering 312 Zona Cafetera 8, 34, 200-17, (PNN) Isla Gorgona 260 184-5, 8 Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) accommodations 182 Tayrona 151 W climate 182 Providencia 180 walking, see hiking food 182 San Andrés 180 water 306 highlights 184-5 TV 303 waterfalls 256 travel seasons 182 Cascada de Amor 256 zoos 163-4, 220

000 Map pages 000 Photo pages 343

These symbols will help you fi nd the listings you want: 1 Sights T Tours 6 Drinking Look out for these icons: Beaches Festivals & Events Entertainment r z 3 Our author’s o recommendation 2 Activities 4 Sleeping 7 Shopping No payment Information/ F required C Courses 5 Eating 8 Transport A green or S sustainable option These symbols give you the vital information for each listing: Our authors have nominated % Telephone Numbers W Wi-Fi Access g Bus these places as demonstrating h Opening Hours s Swimming Pool f Ferry a strong commitment to p Parking v Vegetarian Selection m Metro sustainability – for example by supporting local communities n Nonsmoking E English-Language Menu b Subway and producers, operating in an a Air-Conditioning c Family-Friendly j Tram environmentally friendly way, i Internet Access # Pet-Friendly d Train or supporting conservation projects. Reviews are organised by author preference.

Map Legend Sights Drinking Routes Geographic Beach Drinking Tollway Hut/Shelter Buddhist Cafe Freeway Lighthouse Castle Primary Lookout Entertainment Christian Secondary Mountain/Volcano Entertainment Hindu Tertiary Oasis Islamic Shopping Lane Park Jewish Shopping Unsealed Road Pass Monument Plaza/Mall Picnic Area Information Museum/Gallery Steps Waterfall Post Office Ruin Tunnel Tourist Information Hydrography Winery/Vineyard Pedestrian River/Creek Zoo Transport Overpass Intermittent River Other Sight Airport Walking Tour Swamp/Mangrove Border Crossing Walking Tour Activities, Courses Reef Bus Detour & Tours Path Canal Cable Car/ Diving/Snorkelling Water Funicular Boundaries Canoeing/Kayaking Cycling Dry/Salt/ International Skiing Ferry Intermittent Lake State/Province Glacier Surfing Metro Disputed Swimming/Pool Monorail Areas Regional/Suburb Walking Parking Beach/Desert Marine Park Windsurfing S-Bahn Cemetery Cliff Other Activity/ Taxi (Christian) Wall Cemetery (Other) Course/Tour Train/Railway Park/Forest Sleeping Tram Population Sportsground Sleeping Tube Station Capital (National) Sight (Building) Camping U-Bahn Capital Top Sight Other Transport (State/Province) Eating City/Large Town (Building) Eating Town/Village 328 Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS N Nik Nelberg, Noella Nincevic, Dr Adam Many thanks to the travelers who used Norten O Annica Ohling, Ted Olander, Karl the last edition and wrote to us with help- Olson, Michel Orlhac, Juan Osorio P Ulrike ful hints, useful advice and interesting Peter, Mary-Louise Phillips, Piotr Piechocki, anecdotes: Rafael Pizarro, Nova Pleman, Johan Poels, Corinne Poulsen R Helene Raynaud, Helge A Talia Aguayo, Florian Albrecht, Brian Reemtsma, Daniel Richter, Marion Roche- Andrews, Pascal Andrey, Anna Asplund gude, Guillermo E Rodriguez-Navarro, Paola B Ethan Baron, Ruth Bath, Sina Bauer, Rubio, Michal Rudziecki S Diego Salgado, Huib Beets, Montserrat Beorlegui, Jana Per Samuelson, Chris Sawka, Ines Schihab, Bergfeld, Carly Bishop, Roxanne Bowman Annett Schlenker, Jonathan Schwartz, C Juan Camilo De Los Rios, Colleen Car- Sabrina Schwarz, Rose Shapiro, Paulo Silva, roll, Adriana Cepeda, Justin Cohen, Sarah Martin Skjöldebrand, Jennifer Slupianek, Cohen D Edward Davey, Anthony De Lannoy, Warwick Sprawson, Aznar Sylvie T Alysanne Jonas De Jong, Tom De Bock, Luis Diaz, Taylor, Rick Tjeerds, Chantal Travers, Andrew Maynard Dodson, Graeme Duke E Alan Tzembelicos V Lotte Van Ekert, Matt Van Der Ereira, Sebastián Espinar F June Fujimoto Peet, Arnaud Verstraete W David Wang, Gerd G Benedetta Galasso, David Garland, Emily Wiss Y Farah Yamin, Tany Yao Z Eric S Zhou. Gipple, Ed Given, Matthew Gnagey, Uli Greiner, Eric Groenen, Monica Groeneveld, Thomas Groß, Danie Grunberg, Francoise AUTHOR THANKS Guernier H Barry Hamiltoni, Liz Harwood, Brent Helmkamp, Vicky Henriksen-Delaney, Kevin Raub Dominic Herr, James Hsu J Ariel Jacob, Special thanks to Adriana Schmidt Raub, who Lloyd Jones, William Joyce, Dimitri Junker wasn’t a big fan of my requiring a ‘kidnapping K Jan Kaper, Kevin Keller, Alexander Klein, briefi ng’ for this gig. Ximena Renjifo, Maria Greg Kondrak, David Kramer, Emile Kruger, Claudia Renjifo and Laura Cahnspeyer all Justin Kruger L Sébastien Lévêque, Belinda helped beyond anything resembling reason- Lopez M Dominic Maher, Masa Marolt able. On the road: Carolina Delgado, Mathieu Pecjak, Meryl Marr, Laura Martorell Guaita, Perrot-Bohringer, Germán Escobar, Tony Marnie McGregor, Patrick Mathews, Thomas Lloyd, Lina María López, Andy Farrington, Mayes, Michaelangelo Mazzeo, Ana Milena Alina Cardenas, Oscar Gilede, Mike Ceaser, Moreno, Dan Morris, Jacques Moeschler Laura Jaramillo, Rodrigo Arias, Shaun Cloh- 329 esy, Mike Anderson, Kat Hiby, Felipe Andrés Builes, Germán Escobar, Thibaud Perdrix, Velasco, Juan Ananda, Johana de la Selva, Miguel at Provincia, Federico Lavagna, Marcela Axel Antoine-Feill and Rafael Clavijo. Manrique, José Gallego and his magical motor- bike, Tim Buendía and his pregnant cat; and in Alex Egerton the UK, Sasha Carolyn Dunn for the sparkling Thanks to everyone at Lonely Planet, espe- conversations, and for making me laugh, and cially to Kathleen, Bruce, Alison, Mike and for being there every time I needed you. Señor Raub for answering the emails so rapidly. On the ground in Colombia big shouts go out to Laura Cahnspeyer, Carolina Lib- ACKNOWLEDGMENTS BEHIND THE SCENES ertad, Urs, Tony and Kim, Jose Ivan, Melissa Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Montoya, A Ximena Garcia, Ingrid Ruiz, Lina Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated Marcela, Oscar y Carito, Andrea, Dahyana World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Vargas, Olga Lucia Mosquera and all the won- Classifi cation’, Hydrology and Earth System derful who contributed along the Sciences, 11, 1633 44. way. Also thanks to KC and Blue Energy and Nicholas Kazu. Cover photograph: The beach at Cabo San Juan de la Guía, Parque Nacional Natural Mike Power (PNN) Tayrona. Jane Sweeney/Lonely Planet Thanks to everyone at Lonely Planet, especially Images. Many of the images in this guide are Kathleen, Alex and Kevin for the support and available for licensing from Lonely Planet insights. Colombian crew: Johan for the beers Images: www.lonelyplanetimages.com. and late-night chats; The One And Only Fredy

THIS BOOK Coordinating Editors Luna Assisting Cartographer Soo, Gina Tsarouhas Sophie Reed This 6th edition of Lonely Planet’s Colombia guidebook Coordinating Cartogra- Assisting Layout was researched and written by pher Andrew Smith Designer Wibowo Rusli Kevin Raub, Alex Egerton and Coordinating Layout Cover Research Naomi Mike Power. The 5th edition was Designer Sandra Helou Parker researched and written by Jens Managing Editors Annelies Internal Image Research Porup, Kevin Raub, Robert Reid Mertens, Angela Tinson Nicholas Colicchia and César Soriano. The 4th edi- Managing Cartographer Language Content tion was researched and written Alison Lyall Branislava Vladisavljevic by Michael Kohn and Robert Managing Layout Landon. This guidebook was Designer Chris Girdler commissioned in Lonely Planet’s Thanks to Brigitte Ellemor, Oakland office, and produced by Assisting Editors Beth Hall, Bruce Evans, Ryan Evans, Yvonne the following: Evan Jones, Shawn Low, Kristin Kirk, Trent Paton, Gerard Walker Odijk, Charlotte Orr Commissioning Editor Kathleen Munnelly ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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