Wagon Tracks Volume 21 Issue 1 Wagon Tracks Volume 21, Issue 1 (November Article 1 2006)

2007 Wagon Tracks. Volume 21, Issue 1 (November, 2006) Association

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This Full Issue is brought to you for free and open access by UNM Digital Repository. It has been accepted for inclusion in Wagon Tracks by an authorized editor of UNM Digital Repository. For more information, please contact [email protected]. : Wagon Tracks. Volume 21, Issue 1 (November, 2006) NTRA SANTA FE TRAIL ASSOCIATION QUARTERLY

VOLUME 21 NOVEMBER 2006 NUMBER 1

SFTA BOARD MEETING LA JUNTA, COLORADO MARCH 17, 2007

HISTORIC TRAIL THREATENED IN COLORADO THE U.S. Army has requested authorization to add more than 400,000 acres to the Pinon Canyon Maneuver Site in southeast Colo­ rado. This includes some 60 miles of the Santa Fe Trail, as well as ranches and small towns. The Bent's Fort Chapter and many members of SFTA have joined in the protest to Ben Bailey and George Elmore pro­ this threat to the Trail and many vided the honor guard for the dedica­ other natural and historic resources. tion of Pike Plaza at Larned, October See the insert in this issue and join 29, photo courtesy of Larry Mix. '--- - the effort to fight against this threat. berg Museum of Natural History in President Joanne VanCoevern Hays. Speakers included Jared Orsi, RENDEZVOUS 2006 SFTA BOARD CHANGES Donald Blakeslee, Leo E. Oliva, Wil­ THE biennial Santa Fe Trail Ren­ liam Howell, Craig Crease, Mike JOANNE VanCoevern, Salina, KS, dezvous at Larned, October 27-29, Olsen, and John Patrick Michael became president of SFTA upon the was devoted to commemoration of Murphy. resignation of George Bayless in Zebulon Montgomery Pike's South­ A highlight of this Rendezvous August 2006. John Atkinson was se­ west Expedition, 1806-1807. The was the dedication on October 29 of lected by the board to serve as vice­ fine programs were enjoyed by 200 the Pike Plaza in Larned, a project of president, and Michael Dickey was participants. The SFTA board and the Wet/Dry Routes Chapter. This is elected to fill Atkinson's position as general membership meetings were only the third Pike monument in Missouri Director. held during the Rendezvous. Kansas and will remind visitors and SFTA BYLAWS AMENDED Tours were provided to Pike sites residents of the importance of Pike's remarkable Southwest Expedition. THE SFTA bylaws were amended in the Larned area and to the Stern------. ------.------1 by vote of those attending the mem­ bership meeting at Larned on Octo­ ber 28. Except for the proposal to reduce the size of the governing board, the proposed amendments (sent with the last issue of Wagon Tracks) were adopted. Anyone wish­ ing a copy of the revised bylaws should send a request to Linda Rev­ ello at the headquarters office, 1349 K-156 Hwy, Larned KS 67550. NEW SFTA WEB SITE THE new SFTA web site is now on­ line at .Itis still a work in progress. Each chapter has its own page; there are selected articles from Wagon Tracks; and the Last Chance Store is online to take orders. Membership dues Dedication of Pike Plaza in Larned, with Roy Pike addressing the audience. Note the may also be paid online. 1806 flag with 15 stars and 15 stripes. Photo courtesy of Larry Mix. November 2006 1

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, PRESIDENT'S COLUMN All matters relating to Wagon WAGON TRACKS (ISSN 1547­ Tracks should be directed to SFTA 7703) is the official publication of ON August 15, 2006, George Editor Leo E. Oliva, PO Box 31, the Santa Fe Trail Association, a Bayless resigned as president of Woodston KS 67675. nonprofit organization incorpo­ SFTA. As provided iIi the bylaws, I Toll-free Phone: 888-321-7341 rated under the laws of the State of accepted the duties of president. I FAX: 785-425-6865 Colorado. Letters and articles are have served on the board as a E-Mail: welcome, but they become the property of WT and may be edited director for eight years and as vice­ Headquarters ofthe Santa Fe Trail or abridged at the editor's discre­ president for 11 months. I was a Association are located at the office tion. All rights reserved. Annual founder and first president of the of Treasurer Ruth Olson Peters subscriptions are obtained through Santa Fe Trail Center, 1349 K-156 Wet/Dry Routes Chapter. Mter be­ membership in SFTA; dues are set Hwy, Larned KS 67550; Office per calendar year. Checks should ing involved with SFTA since 1990, I Manager Linda Revello. be made payable to the Santa Fe am honored to become president of Telephone: 620-285-2054 Trail Association and sent to the an organization that has so many ex­ FAX: 620-285-7491 treasurer (address below). citing things happening. E-Mail: Membership Categories In 2003 the SFTA board, chapter Association Manager is Clive Sie­ Life $1,000 Patron $100/year representatives, and representatives gle, 9908 Shoreview, Dallas TX Business $50/year .. from the National Park Service met 75238. Telephone: 214-349-7419 E-Mail: Nonprofit Institution$40/year in Trinidad, Colorado, and developed Family $30/year a strategic plan to chart a course for VISIT SFTA ON THE INTERNET Individual $25/year future protection and interpretation Youth (18 & under) $15/year of the Santa Fe National Historic Editor: Leo E. Oliva, PO Box 31, Trail. This plan addresses purpose Historic Trail. In August the first Woodston KS 67675,888-321-7341, and vision, visitor experience goals, part of this inventory was made by Association Manager Clive Siegle, President: Joanne VanCoevern, a range ofrecommended actions, and 4773 N Wasserman Way, Salina future steps to be taken to imple­ SFTA members Craig Crease and KS 67401, 785-825-8349, to provide guidance for SFTA and . tives John Conoboy and. Andrea Vice-President: John Atkinson, the NPS' for several years, with Sharon. Along the way they received 1113 Safari Dr, St Joseph MO 64506, 816-233-3924, and achievements and to review pri­ Secretary: Kathleen S. Pickard, orities. If you would like to see this Linda Colle, Steve Schmidt, David 4001 N Crystal Springs Rd, Salina plan in its entirety just type in Santa Clapsaddle, Larry Mix, Jeff Trot­ KS 67401, 785-309-0694, Plan into the Google search engine, lie Mock, and Morris Alexander. The Treasurer: Ruth Olson Peters, purpose of this inventory is to docu­ Santa Fe Trail Center, 1349 K-156 or your favorite search, and it will di­ Hwy, Larned KS 67550, 620-285­ rect you to the PDF file. ment what is out there, determine 2054, FAX 620-285-7491, dations for the site, and to document 2007 Symposium Coordinator: scheduled for March 17, 2007, in La Richard Louden, PO Box 8, Bran­ Junta, Colorado, where we will again what new discoveries, markings, etc., have taken place since the last son CO 81027, 719-946-5513 look at the strategic plan and see Publicity Coordinator: Michael how we are progressing. We will look inventory. The second part ofthis in­ E. Pitel, PO Box 31386, Santa Fe ahead and determine if we need to ventory will be completed in Novem­ NM 87594, 505-982-2704, this strategic plan, several projects be developed with the information. Directors: and there will be several thousand Clint Chambers, TX, 806-791- are underway along the Santa Fe 3612 National Historic Trail. digital images that can be used for Dub Couch, CO, 719-254-3000 various projects. Our newly-revamped web site is Michael E. Dickey, MO, 660-837­ 3330 up and running. Although we still The Gardner Kiosk project is pro­ gressing forward and should be com­ Roberta Falkner, At-Large, 913- have plans for additions, one impor­ 236-5627 tant part is already working. The pleted by early summer. Plans are Faye Gaines, NM, 505-485--2473 Last Chance Store, managed by Leo underway for a formal dedication to Rene Harris, NM, 505-476-5087 and Bonita Oliva, is online. You can take place around September 15, LaDonna Hutton, CO, 719-254- 2007. Watch for more details in fu­ 7266 look at all the Last Chance Store has Robert Kincaid, TX, 940-684-1531 , to offer, order it, and pay for it online. ture Wagon Tracks. The idea behind the kiosk projects is to encourage the Vernon Lohrentz, At-Large, 316­ It works fantastic. In addition, mem­ 283-6361 traveler to visit Santa Fe National berships may also be paid online. Ron Parks, KS, 620-767-7033 Historic Trail sites in both directions Please visit our new web site at Sara Jane Richter, OK, 580-349­ as well as to interpret the site of the . 2357 kiosk. Other areas of the Trail are Alice Anne Thompson, MO, 314­ Along with developing a new web under consideration. for future ki­ 434-3982 site, another top priority ofthe SFTA osks. We hope to develop brochures Jeff Trotman, KS, 620-356-1854 in the strategic plan is to take an in­ to be made available to travelers at Timothy A. Zwink, OK, 405-373­ 4513 ventory of the Santa Fe National these kiosks.

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Another major project designed to project. The basic idea is to bring rec­ business in Sioux City can "go bring attention to the Santa Fe Na­ ognition to those who have had a ma­ global" and start peddling books to tional Historic Trail is a signage pro­ jor influence on the Santa Fe Trail, someone in Singapore? Taking a que gram being developed cooperatively both historic and today. The commit­ from the fact that the Santa Fe Trail between SFTA and the NPS. These tee will establish guidelines and so­ was one of America's first interna­ signs will bring attention to Trail licit nominations. Those selected will tional super-highways of trade, the sites, as well as local auto tours and be inducted at each annual member­ best-stocked specialty bookstore on marking projects that have been ship meeting, with an illustration things Santa Fe Trail just. went completed by the various chapters of and text to be placed in the "hall," ex­ global and opened up shop on our SFTA. The primary goal of this proj­ pected to be housed at the Santa Fe new site. And for those of us who live ect is to achieve "product identifica­ Trail Center headquarters. Watch in Santa Fe instead of Singapore tion" by placing the Santa Fe Na­ for more details on this. (and even for those who do live in tional Historic Trail logo along the In closing, I thank all of those Singapore!), and are ready for phase entire length of the Trail. Travelers members, committees, board mem­ two of our global business venture, will recognize the logo and realize bers, chapters, etc., for taking time the Last Chance now takes credit they are traveling along a corridor of to volunteer for the SFTA. What cards and PayPal for your ordering national importance. Individuals brings us all together is a love of the pleasure. You may now join the can promote the Santa Fe National Santa Fe Trail and its history. The SFTA or renew your dues via the Historic Trail with products avail­ excitement that was apparent at the new site. able from the Last Chance Store, recent Rendezvous is invigorating. It Soon to be added is a master cal­ such as a lapel pins or patches that helps us remember that even after endar of events along the Trail, a can be sewn onto shirts, jackets, and 20 years as an organization, we still guide for everyone interested in at­ hats. have more to do. Through the help of tending and, we hope, a way to avoid Another very successful Rendez­ all our members, we will continue to or at least reduce scheduling con­ vous was held at Larned. Speakers work toward the goals of the SFTA­ flicts. For this to work, all chapters on various topics related to Zebulon to preserve, protect, and promote the and other planners ofTrail programs Pike were the emphasis. Our. first entire Santa Fe Trail. will have to report all dates to be speaker was Dr. Jared Orsi, a recipi­ -Joanne VanCoevern included and consult the master cal· ent of one of SFTA's scholarly re­ endar before scheduling any meet· .. search grants. His presentation is a MANAGER'S COLUMN ing. It will be wonderful ifthis calen· fine example of how the grant pro­ THE new SFTA web site is up and dar can prevent the scheduling of gram is designed to work. The staff running and the old one has gone to chapter meetings at the same time at the Santa Fe Trail Center and wherever in cyberspace ancient sites SFTA is hosting a meeting. Fort Larned National Historic Site, go when their webmasters flick the There will also be a comprehen­ as well as members of the WetlDry "off' switch. When we threw the sive "For Educators" curriculum Routes Chapter, are commended for switch on October 12, it was sort of guide taking shape soon on there as putting together another successful like 12:01 a.m. on New Year's Day: well. Each chapter has its very own Rendezvous, with good speakers, out with the Old, in with the New. page to strut their stuff on (although food, and fellowship. Those of you who make the jour­ at this point some are struttin' right The SFTA has received a $25,000 ney to will along, some are shuffling right donation from the EI Paso Pipeline find a number of enhancements to along, and a few, unfortunately, Company to help us with preserva­ the site that will bring us on par with aren't even hobbling right along, but tion projects. This money has been contemporary sites like the NPS then as the old Trail adage goes, set aside and will be used on as "as Santa Fe Trail and Oregon Trail "Santa Fe wasn't built in a day"). needed" basis for various preserva­ sites, or OCTA and Lewis and Clark What a web site does is it puts a tion issues. The preservation com­ (O.K., maybe not Lewis and Clark, face on us as an organization for the mittee has been asked to consider since during their ramblings world to see-both literally and figu­ ideas for projects. Ifyou know ofsites through their bicentennial they ratively. With one click, there we that are being threatened, please seem to have discovered both the are, staring out at new-found ac­ contact our preservation chairperson source of the and quaintances as we pose before Faye Gaines. more Federal bucks than Thomas freshly-set markers, or attentively The expansion of the Pinon Can­ Jefferson's entire national budget for listening to a learned speaker at a yon Maneuver Site is still considered . 1804-some of which ended up on chapter meeting, or dancing in peri­ to be the number one threat to a their two drop-dead beautiful sites). od clothes at a symposium shindig. large portion of the Santa Fe Trail. But what the heck, we didn't even Our web site tells everyone ofour ac­ SFTA has been writing letters and have to tow a 55-foot keelboat up­ complishments, our hopes, and our making contacts. We are still pursu­ stream across half of the Northern visions for the Trail. With the simple ing other possible actions to help pre­ Plains to get our site spiffed up. We click of a computer's mouse, it's us. serve this area of the Trail. have, for instance, put the Last On the world's computer screen. In The SFTA board has authorized Chance Store online. Ever see those real time. In their face. In their head. creation of a''''Santa Fe Trail Hall of TV ads that tout how, thanks to the Our time to tell the Trail's story, and Fame." A committee has been miracle of the web and some big soft­ invite them along. formed to propose details for this ware or networking partner, some e- -Clive Siegle

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and personalities who were deeply 1__..:B~A:.:.:R~BA:..:.:.:.:RA...;..;.;lE;;.;;E;.;.H,;,;,;ll;;;l_Ey 1 DONOR HONOR ROLL 'involved in the development of t~e MANY members have responded to SFTA member BarbaraLee Hilley Trail and area. The symposium wIll various pleas for additional dona­ of Santa Fe, age 70, an avid bicyclist, conclude with Sunday services and a tions to assist SFTA with its many had an abrupt and tragic accident presentation about ~ari?n Sloan projects. Please not~ tha~ SFTA while cycling with a group from the Russell at her gravesIte m Stone­ membership forms (mcludmg the New Touring Society in Albu­ wall. form on the web site) include a place querque on July 11, 2006. A piece of o to make additional donations to sup­ There will be food, music, art ex­ metal lying in the bike 'lane flew up port SFTA. Special thanks is ex­ hibits, and contests galore, along as she rode over it and jammed the tended to the following for recent with a "Kid's Day" for area youth and spokes against the metal and bike attende~s. donations. symposium Re!5istrati.on fork, stopping the bike instantly and and more informatIOn WIll be m­ throwing her forward over the Memorial Gifts: all in memory of Pat Heath cluded in the February 2007 issue of handlebars to land on her head and Wagon Tracks. Charles & Barbara Allen neck, causing severe spinal cord Mark your calendar for Sept. 27­ & injury and quadriplegia. She held Steven Mary Davidson i~­ Stephen & Suzanne Germes 30, 2007 and help preserve this four degrees, including her RN, two portant piece of the Santa ~e TraIl Clara Goodrich Bachelor degrees, and her Master's and our nation's history. WrIte, call, C. & M. Matthews Degree in Southwest History. Bar­ meet with your local, state, and fed­ Ted & Dorothy Morgan bara was also a member of the Old eral officials and anyone else ofinflu­ Bruce & Linda Peters Spanish Trail Association and the ence so this will not be one of the la~t Camino Real Trail Association. Con­ SFTA SYMPOSIUM 2007 opportunities to have acc~ss to thIS dolences are extended to her hus­ historically-significant regIOn. band, Dr. Bob Hilley, family and LAST CHANCE EVER? friends. by John M. Carson CAMINO REAL TOUR THIS could be your Last Chance MARCH 1-12, 2007 ;.;PA..;.;T~R,;,,;I Ever. The U.S. Army has requested IL..-__ C;";,;IAo...;",,,;,,;H_EA_T_H 1 HAL Jackson, retired SFTA presi­ that the Department of Defense ac­ dent and author of the new Follow­ SFTA Ambas-." quire an additional 418,000 acres for sador Pat Heath,' the expansion of the Pinon Canyon ing the Royal Road: A Guide t? the a charter member", Historic Camino Real de TLerra •• Maneuver Site. Ifthis request is ap­ l Adentro is offering a guided tour of a of SFTA, died at ', proved and funded by Congress, ~he ~f intern~tional Lakin, KS, July 8, ~ area from approximately 15 mIles portion that historic trail in northern MeXICO. The theme 2006, at age 83. Ail south of La Junta to some 10 miles Chicago,~. is "Foliowing the Footsteps of Juan native of ~orth of Trinidad, Colorado, may no she lived in Ed-' de Onate." This trail was opened by longer be accessible to the public. ~e mond, OK, from This will make nearly one-half the Onate in 1598, and the Santa 1951-1982, where~<>,96ryr; ?p.1 Trail connected to it at Santa Fe m Q ..-,.- . Mountain Route in Colorado un­ 1821. EI Camino Real de Tierra she worked for a . available to visitors. dental supply company. She moved Adentro was recently added to the Thus the 2007 Symposium at National Historic Trails System and to Lakin in 1982, where she served Trinidad may be one ofthe last times as director of the Kearny County is administered in the U.S. by the the public can visit the Trail site~ in National Park Service and the Bu­ Museum, 1991-2005. She was a very this area. The symposium plannmg active member of SFTA, the Kearny reau of Land Management. committee is preparing three major ~h.e The tour begins March 1, 2007, County Historical Society, and tours into this endangered region. across the bridge in Cd. Juarez, and Fort Larned Old Guard. She partIcI­ One will visit sites in the present Pi­ goes south from there with overnight pated in two bus tours of the Trail non Canyon Maneuver Site. Another stops at , Parral, Duran­ and attended most symposiums and will travel north of Trinidad along go, Zacatecas, and Torreon. T~e cost rendezvous. She volunteered as the the Mountain Route. The third will for this 12-day tour is $1,100, mclud­ Lakin hostess for the Santa Fe Trail follow the Granada-Fort Union Mili­ Bicycle Tours. She was a great friend tary Freight Route in Colorado. ing all hotels and most. meals. The:re will be entertainment m several CIt­ of the Trail. There will also be a number of tours ies. This guided tour, led by Dr. Jack­ Pat was named a SFTA Ambassa­ in Trinidad. son and Maestro Luis Urias Hermo­ dor in 1997. She received the Kansas Dr. Marc Simmons, "Father of the Museum Association Distinguished sillo of Chihuahua, is a great oppor­ Santa Fe Trail Association," will tunity for trail folks who want to ex­ Service Award in 2005. She is great­ open the symposium as the keynote ly missed by many friends along th.e perience the Camino Re~l'but ~ave speaker. Other presentations will trepidations about travel m MeXICO. Trail. Survivors include her son, MI­ deal with such topics as the Buffalo For details, including itinerary, chael Ustick and daughter, Linda Hide Trade the Military Freight maps, photos, and registration in~or­ Peters and her family, all of Lakin. Route, and a~ea merchants, families, Sincere sympathy is extended to her mation, go to . You will never fmd a be sent to the SFTA. B.EQUEST TO THE, SFTA similar guided tour.

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DON SANTIAGO KIRKER, THE KING OF by Hal Jackson [Jackson recently completed two ian coast, returned to New York terms as SFTA president. His book, City. Following the Royal Road, was re­ Serving on a had risks cently published by the University of and advantages for a young immi­ New Mexico Press.} grant. The principal advantage was OF all the interesting characters to that Kirker immediately became a travel the Santa Fe Trail, and there United States citizen when he en­ is a sizable collection of such, none tered service. The disadvantage and surpasses James Kirker who trav­ risk was that, if his ship were cap­ eled up and down the Trail many tured, he might be treated by the times between 1824 and 1850. I, like British as a traitor. Many young sea­ many of you, ran into Kirker in foot­ men on American ships were "en­ notes that I read in Josiah Gregg, listed" or "impressed" into service in Max Moorhead, and other writers on the British navy during the War of Trail topics, where he was usually Santa Fe Trail and people such as 1812. described as an Irish adventurer Kit Carson, Manuel Armijo, and the In Kirker met and making his living in New Mexico and McKnight family. married a young widow, Catherine, northern Chihuahua. Moorhead de­ Here is the strange story of Santi­ who owned and operated a grocery scribed him as a "notorious border­ ago Querque, the name given him by store. With his new wife he fathered land adventurer." the admiring Mexicans. Reserve a son, James B. Kirker. Shortly after Kirker especially caught my at­ judgment on this character until you the birth of his son, Kirker headed tention when I read George A. F. finish reading this version of his life west with some other Irish men that Ruxton's Adventures in Mexico while and times. he knew. Kirker, as did most other' researching my book on the Camino Kirker's Early Years Irish immigrants, had many friends and relatives who could help him in Real. Ruxton, a British citizen, left James Kirker was born in a small his new life in America. He had, for Mexico City in 1846, heading north village near Belfast in 1793. He was example, kin living in southeastern on the Camino Real for New Mexico part ofthat group ofpeople called the Pennsylvania as well as a cousin and beyond. Ruxton's book is espe­ Borderlanders in the British Isles. David Kirker in St. Louis, about cially recommended because he trav­ These people had lived along the whom more later. eled north, against the grain so to troublesome English-Scottish border speak, just at the time the war be­ and, as their numbers grew and St. Louis tween Mexico and the United States agrarian reform progressed, many Kirker arrived in St. Louis in 1817 was taking place. His descriptions of moved to Northern Ireland. In fact, when he was 24 years of age. His ar­ Comanche attacks along the trail in the many problems of Northern Ire­ rival was about the time the first Mexico are chilling, and it truly was land today are a direct result of the steamboat made it up the Missis­ a miracle that he survived to write mainly Protestant Borderlanders sippi to St. Louis-the Zebulon M. his book. who arrived on the scene in the Pike docked in St. Louis on July 17, When Ruxton reached the city of eighteenth century. Many of these 1817. James began working for John Chihuahua and described the hun­ same folk moved to North America, McKnight of the firm McKnight and dreds ofApache scalps hanging from beginning in the eighteenth century. Brady, another pair of Irish friends. the portales across from the cathe­ Andrew Jackson was the first presi­ It was Irish like McKnight and dral, I realized that here was a spe­ dent to spring from this Border­ Brady who wielded most of the eco­ cial story. These scalps were the di­ lander well. When Americans state nomic power in St. Louis at this time. rect result of a raid by James Kirker that their roots are Scots-Irish, they Their business empire included and his small army of Shawnee Indi­ refer to the same tough-as-nails folk. banks, ferries, and a shipping com­ ans and other adventurers. Kirker To avoid being drafted into the pany, in addition to a fleet of boats did it for money, and the Mexicans British army to fight iIi the Napole­ and various hotels and warehouses. were more than happy to pay him onic wars, James Kirker sailed for About 1819 Kirker went into busi­ and display the trophies in front of the United States, arriving alone in ness for himself, opening a grocery the church. No remorse here. New York City in 1810 at the age of store. His cousin, David Kirker, was Upon completion of my task on the 16. In 1812 James joined the crew of the principal clerk in the store. Camino Real, I immediately turned a privateer that sailed to prey on James had heard the story, as nearly to learning more about James Kirker British vessels during the War of everyone in St. Louis had, ofthe Rob­ and what would lead someone to do 1812. were commissioned ert McKnight (Robert was John what he did. There are two biogra­ to patrol the oceans to intercept Brit­ McKnight's brother) party that had phies of Kirker (see bibliography at ish ships and were allowed to keep traveled to Santa Fe in 1812 and had the end of article). Besides these I the cargoes of such captured vessels. been immediately arrested. The read other sources, especially those Kirker served on the Black Joke and, traders, apparently 10 men in total, that would shed some light on the after many escapades off the Brazil- had been taken south to Chihuahua

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City by 1814, tried and convicted of ment. It was very tense for the Franklin preparing for his second violating Spanish law prohibiting McKnight party until a squad of trip on the SFT, this one commanded foreign traders in Spanish territory. Mexicans, note the word "Mexicans," by Augustus Storrs. We know some of what happened to arrived to allow them to pass. It was Arriving in Santa Fe, Kirker may the party because James Baird told just at the time the Spanish lost have applied for and received Mexi­ his story, and it was carried through power in Mexico and the new Mexi­ can citizenship. There is no clear evi­ his family until made known in 1959 can government had opened the dence that Kirker actually obtained (see Golley, 1959). Baird was sold to province ofNew Mexico to trade with Mexican citizenship at this time, but a man in Durango where he tried to foreigners. An aside here is that he was later issued permits to trap escape but was captured and placed David Kirker behaved badly at this beaver in the 1830s. Such permits in "solitary confinement for nine confrontation and had shown cow­ were only issued to citize~s of Mex­ months. ardice which may have later ico. His citizenship is important be­ Robert McKnight, after whom the haunted James Kirker. cause between 1825 and 1847 he party was named, ended up in Gale­ The McKnight party left St. Louis used all three nationalities (British, ana (see map) during his confine­ before William Becknell left Frank­ American, Mexican) to his advan­ ment, doing mining work, and he lin, Missouri, on his trip to Santa Fe tage. He became, chameleon-like, also opened a mercantile store in in 1821. The former arrived in Santa the nationality that gave him the that town. Generally the authorities Fe a few weeks after Becknell, so most benefit. Kirker spent the win­ would release prisoners to various Becknell is remembered as the ter 1825-1826 trapping in present communities where they were ex­ "opener" of the Santa Fe Trail. Beck­ southern Colorado, returning to St. pected to serve out their time. It cost nell, on his return to Missouri, noted Louis in the spring to sell his pelts. money to incarcerate someone and that "two other men joined his party Kirker and Kit Carson was easier to assign them to a type of at San Miguel del Vado." One of Kirker made his next trip west in internal imprisonment. The focus these was David Kirker, James's the summer of 1826, joining a here is on McKnight and Baird be­ cousin. Robert McKnight was later westering party at Fort Osage. A cause both later used their imprison­ found and returned to St. Louis.· complete list of the participants of ment to their advantage. James maintained his business in this parti is lacking, but Stephen Finally, in late 1820, the men in St. Louis the next few years with at Turley owned much of the merchan­ the McKnight party were released least one adventure to the upper dise. McGaw, Kirker's first biogra­ and allowed to return to the United Missouri River with the William pher, has Kirker as a wagonmaster States. In January, 1821, three men Ashley-Andrew Henry partnership in the party. It seems that Andrew· from the McKnight party arrived in in 1822. He returned to St. Louis in Broadus was a member and, if he St. Louis. Robert McKnight was not 1823, by which time the Santa Fe was included, so was a young man among the three stragglers, and his trade was booming. named Kit Carson. Carson mentions brother John decided to send a party First Kirker Trip on the SFT in his autobiography witnessing the to New Mexico in search of his In 1824 Kirker made his first trip amputation of Broadus's arm after a brother. This party, the John to New Mexico in a party of trappers gun mishap. If Carson and Kirker McKnight venture, included Thomas and 80 or so traders. William Beck­ were both in this party, it was the be­ James and James Kirker's cousin nell and M. M. Marmaduke were the ginning of a long acquaintance be­ David. It had become a business ven­ leaders of that caravan which used tween the two frontiersmen. ture as well as a "rescue" mission, the Cimarron Route opened by Beck­ Santa Rita and Mexico and James may have sent some nell in 1822. Kirker was counted goods with his cousin David. The Kirker arrived in Santa Fe in 1826 among the trappers, but he carried with the Turley train and kept trav­ party left St. Louis May 10, 1821, some trade goods in addition to his and headed down the Mississippi eling south to the copper mine at trapping equipment. Also in this Santa Rita. Santa Rita del Cobre was thinking they could reach Santa Fe caravan were Augustus Storrs and by water. a copper deposit discovered about Robert McKnight. It was Storrs, you 1799 and worked from that time. At Their original plan was to descend recall, who responded to Senator the time ofKirker's arrival the mines the Mississippi to the Arkansas Thomas Hart Benton's questions were operated by Robert McKnight River, ascend that river to Santa Fe. about trade on the Santa Fe Trail, and Steven Courcier. Kirker made (We sometimes laugh at Pike's bun­ and Storrs response, published in Santa Rita his home base until 1834, gling in 1806-1807, but here we are 1825, became an important source of a span of 8 years. He wore many hats in 1821 and people still don't know information about the early trade on during this important period. He which river goes where.) Luckily the the Trail. trapped along the Gila River in win­ party encountered Hugh Glenn, who It is not clear whether Kirker re­ ters, led copper ore trains from Santa informed them they could not make turned with the Becknell-Marma­ Rita to on the Cop­ it by water. They switched to horses duke party or remained behind to per Road, and even did some pros­ and headed west. They ran into a trap beaver. He was back in St. Louis pecting. large group of Comanches in present by early 1825, where he sold his furs Most of Kirker's trapping was ac­ Oklahoma. These Indians would not and took care of some financial mat­ allow them to pass because they had complished without benefit of a ters concerning his businesses in Mexican license. To market the con­ an agreement with the Spanish to that city. In May 1825 Kirker was in protect this frontier from encroach- traband pelts Kirker would meet an

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American merchant going north on state of Chihuahua was depopulated Kirker was again welcome in New the Camino Nacional (the old during this period with attacks even Mexico because the began a Camino Real had, of course, been re­ rep.orted in the streets of the capital series of attacks on Mexican settle­ named after 1821). These traders ChIhuahua City. ments, the first being at Santa Rita transported his pelts to Independ- Kirker Finds Refuge at Bent's Fort in January 1837. Soon after that at­ . ence or St. Louis for eventual sale. In 1832 a treaty was signed at tack the entire borderland of Chi­ This shadowy business of Kirker's Santa Rita between the Chihua­ huahua and was defenseless. slowed when James Baird, a member huans a~d Apaches. The Treaty of Kirker returned at the same time a ofthe 1812 McKnight group who had Santa RIta actually helped Kirker new form of mercenary warfare be­ returned to Chihuahua and become and others because now the ''barter­ gan. One could obtain a ''permiso'' ~exic~n a citizen, led a campaign er.s" could trade with the Apaches (permission) from the government agamst Illegal trapping. Baird re­ wIthout fear of breaking any Mexi­ which allowed the holder to raise a ported the trapping scheme to the can laws. The Mexicans, somewhat private army. These armies were ex­ authorities and it was slowed if not naIvely, assumed that raiding would pected to locate and attack hostile halted entirely. tribes, recover stolen livestock and stop and the Apaches would become .. . ' The Indian situation in northern farmers. receIve pnzes or premlUms for their \ successes. Chihuahua and eastern Sonora dete­ Kirker married a young woman riorated during the 1820s and 1830s. from southern Chihuahua state at EI In April 1837 an American named The Mexicans, in 1821, inherited the Paso del Norte in 1831. He had not John James Johnson attacked and .f Spanish policy of trading food and • divorced Catherine, his wife in New killed 20 Mimbreiio Apaches in supplies for peace. It was "Peace by York City, so he was committing big­ southwestern New Mexico. Johnson Purchase" during the colonial period amy. Petra, the first of many chil­ had clearly set a trap for the Indians and had worked reasonably well dren from this union, was born at and this single battle signaled the from the 1590s to the end of Spanish Janos in 1833. beginning of the War of rule. For a variety of reasons the Scalps which lasted until 1891. Mexicans did not maintain good re­ By 1835 Kirker, by then com­ monly known as don Santiago Quer­ In late July 1837 a fund of lations with the Apaches or Coman­ $100,000 was established to help ches. Apaches had been living near que, was recognized for what he really was: a gunrunner. The Mexi­ eradicate the Indian menace. It was th~ many presidios where they ob­ seen as a fight to the death-the tamed their rations. Certainly some can government labeled Kirker an outlaw and put a price of $800 on his Mexicans believed they must exter­ young Apache bloods would wander minate the Apaches or they would be offonce in a while to accomplish a lit­ head. James eluded the Mexican troops sent after him and in Septem­ exterminated by them. The plan was tle "harvesting" of Mexican commu­ to pay $100 for each male scalp, $50 nities, but in general this system ber 1836 joined a traders' train headed back to Missouri. Kirker for each female scalp, and $25 for worked in a sort of Golden Age from each captured Indian child. 1780 to 1821. By 1830 after the abandoned the caravan at Bent's Fort which put him out of reach of All these arrangements took place l\;lexicans had stopped'giving ra­ while Kirker was at Bent's Fort, but bons, most Apaches had abandoned the Mexican authorities whose northern boundary was the south many Mexicans in Chihuahua state the sedentary life near the presidios had Kirker in mind to carry out the and returned to one ofharvesting the side of the Arkansas River. Kirker remained at Bent's Fort for program. Robert McKnight espe­ Mexicans. cially, wanted James to retU:rn and This change in circumstances led about 20 months. He traveled west into the Rockies to trap and gener­ help out. to warfare that lasted, in Mexico at Kirker raised a small force of 23 le~st, until the 1890s. Apaches ally "hung around" the fort. He met a large number of displaced eastern men, including several Shawnees raIded ranches, towns, and even cit­ (Spybuck among them), in 1838 to ies where they would steal horses Indians, both Delawares and . Shawnees, while at the fort. Some of provide relief for Santa Rita and al­ and mules, and the livestock would low supplies to get there from Chi­ be traded to entrepreneurs such as these Indians followed him the bal­ ance of his life, including his final huahua. The Copper Road connect­ Kirker who would sell them to ing the mines with the capital was American traders. (You have proba­ trip to rising, and it was the hope that traders who bought the livestock Spybuck, part Shawnee and part French, who became Kirker's chief Kirker could reopen it. His party would arrive in EI Paso where the found an Apache village with 247 Mexican owners, to the Americans' lieutenant in battles to come. The Scalp Hunter residents near Galeana in May chagrin, would reclaim them.) which they attacked. There were 55 What Kirker and others were us­ Manuel Armijo became governor warriors killed, nine women cap­ ing .for currency in their Apache of New Mexico in August 1837 and tured, and Kirker destroyed the vil­ tradmg was arms and ammunition. quickly rescinded the arrest warrant lage. This was the opening salvo in By 1840 the Apaches were far better that was out for Kirker. He invited the "Kirker Wars." Kirker to return to New Mexico. armed than the Mexican opponents, Between battles in the Kirker who usually depended on a bow Kirker immediately returned to Santa Fe where he was reunited Wars, James continued to trade with club, or lance to protect themselves: various Apache groups. There was Much of the northern portion of the with his wife and children.

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no one Apache "nation," but instead. ing south to punish the Apaches each small group negotiated on its raiding in Chihuahua. This northern own. It is conceivable that Kirker swing would pit him against Jicarilla could destroy one group and still do Apaches and perhaps some Utes. business with another group. James Kirker and fifty of his followers continued to get livestock from the were camped near the small commu­ Apaches in return for rifles and am­ nity of Rancho de Taos. (This small munition. There were many in Mex­ village is just south of Taos and has ico who believed that Santiago Quer­ the famous and picturesque church que had directed several Apache at­ located in its plaza.) Apaches raided tacks on Mexican settlements. Kirker's camp, stealing horses which The Andrew Daley Mfair they took up the canyon to the south­ Josiah Gregg told the story of the east. Kirker and his men quickly fol­ murder of an American, Andrew lowed and went up to high ground Daley, by two Mexican men, Salva­ above the Indians. Kirker and h.is dor Barela and Diego Martin, in Feb­ men stopped the Apaches with a vol­ ruary 1838. The murderers were ley of shots. ·The Jicarillas that sur­ captured but soon released by Gover­ vived the ambush headed back to nor Armijo. At the time New Mexico Rancho de Taos where they entered lacked a real penal system and since the plaza and tried to gain entrance it cost money to incarcerate prison­ to the church, thinking they would ers they were often simply let go. be safe there. Money for the New Mexican authori­ Kirker continued his attack, kill­ ties was a commodity in short sup­ ing more Apaches until the Indians ply. asked for mercy. Kirker allowed the few survivors to leave, perhaps hop­ The American community in So it was that in the fall of 1839 ing they would spread the word con­ Santa Fe was outraged at the release Governor Trias and Kirker em­ cerning the danger of stealing live­ of the murderers. Since James barked on a proyecto-a project-to stock from Kirker. Forty Indians had Kirker was in Santa Fe at the time, contain the Apaches. Kirker agreed been killed in the episode. For a more he led a posse to recapture Barela to raise an army of 200 of whom 50 detailed version of events by some­ and Martin. On July 4, 1838, Kirker were to be Mexicans. Kirker and his one on the scene read Field's ac­ and others delivered an ultimatum men were to receive a small amount count. to Armijo at the Palace of the Gover­ of money for each day served but the nor, demanding justice. Armijo coun­ The Second Kirker War real money would come from killing tered by stationing a company of mi­ The conflict at Rancho de Taos is Indians. He was to get 50 pesos for litiamen in the plaza to intimidate considered the opening salvo in the each male over age fourteen killed or Kirker. This was an unwise move on second Kirker War. Armijo, still delivered as prisoner. For women Armijo's part because Kirker assem­ smarting from Kirker's dominance and children he would receive 25 pe­ bled his own men and other volun­ at Santa Fe in the Daley affair, was sos. For proof of the deaths Kirker teers to march on the plaza. The Ar­ not at all pleased with Kirker's ac­ brought back scalps. Scalping was a mijo militia melted away at the sight tion against the Jicarillas. To Armijo tradition brought west by the Indi­ of Kirker's force. A quick decision by the problems were in Chihuahua ans from the eastern U. S., such as Armijo was that he should perhaps and not New Mexico, and that was the Delawares and Shawnees accom­ listen to appeals for justice. where Kirker ought to go. panying Kirker. This method of ac­ Barela and Martin remained in Don Santiago passed into Chihua­ counting soon became the accepted jail a few years before being released hua in November 1839. With him manner in Chihuahua. again. Ralph Smith, the second were 59 Delawares, Shawnees, In January 1840 Kirker moved Kirker biographer, pointed out that Americans, Englishmen, and north along the Copper Road to Kirker's actions in the plaza demon­ Frenchmen. This would have been Casas Grandes. Hearing of a large strated he was the most powerful his usual contingent of borderland Apache encampment north of Casas person in New Mexico. He could eas­ ruffians at this time. Although Grandes, he took most of his force to ily have taken over control of New Kirker was generally welcomed to La Boca Grande (near Ascension, see Mexico had he wished. The only Chihuahua, there were some in the map) where he attacked the camp at known portrait of Kirker has "Don government who were opposed to a dawn. Ten warriors were killed and Santiago Kirker when King of New foreigner leading a ragtag army in he captured 20 women and children Mexico" written on it. their state. The opponents to Kirker plus he recovered more than 70 head Battle at Ranchos de Taos thought that the Mexican militia of livestock. Kirker returned to Chi­ Matt Field tells the next story and army should be able to control huahua City and then began moving about Kirker, and that saga was the Apache menace. Time and time into the Bolson de Mapimi, a very published in the New Orleans Pica­ again the Mexican forces had demon­ large and arid region southwest of yune. Kirker took his band north strated they were unable to stand up the capital. He was reported in Par­ from Santa Fe to Taos instead of go- to the Indians. ral in February, near which his'party

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killed 15 warriors and captured 20 fers to a document called the Kirker annual treks from their homes in more. Protocol which outlined the Apache Texas, crossing the Rio Grande at Kirker and his band moved north demands. Almost everyone of these two spots in the present-day Big from Parral and were next in action eight protocols made reference to Bend National Park, to harvest live­ at the Laguna de Santa Maria in transgressions by either Don Santi­ stock in southern Chihuahua, northern Chihuahua. In an attack on ago Kirker or Don Roberto (Robert Durango, and Zacatecas. The Co­ May 8, 1840, they killed six warriors McKnight). This Kirker Peace from manches were far better organized and captured thirteen others. They 1842 to 1845 allowed James to find and presented an even bigger prob­ also rounded up over 120 head of other employment-employment not lem than did the Apaches, and they livestock and repatriated eight bar­ in the line of fire in Chihuahua. had no truce with the Mexicans. rels of aguardiente that the Apaches In southwesternmost Chihuahua In December, 1845 Chihuahua had stolen from Mexicans. (Aguardi­ state (180 miles from Chihuahua Governor Angel Trias issued an or- ente is a distilled drink from grapes City) was an isolated mining town der to increase defenses of Chihua­ somewhat like a brandy.) called Guadalupe y Calvo. This was hua. Don Santiago was called upon Finally, in June 1840, Mexican the birthplace of Kirker's wife Rita. to help in the defense ofthe northern authorities grew tired of Kirker's James, Rita, and three children (Pe­ portions of the state. In late Decem­ freelancing and canceled his con­ tra, Rafael, and Santiago Jose) went ber James and about 170 armed tract. James apparently took the there probably in early 1843. The men--Shawnees, Delawares, and cancellation in stride for he was next mines were operated by five British Mexicans-attacked an Apache en­ ; ,J found in Chihuahua trying to settle citizens who hired James to protect campment west of Galeana. The some unfinished business. In 1836 the mines. He was to guard the min­ Apaches were aware of the impend­ James had been robbed by certain ers and their families as well as keep ing attack, but Kirker's force won a Navajos and Zunis ofpelts and goods the roads safe for travel. These victory nevertheless. A meeting after worth $5,000. The goods had been re­ mines produced copper, , and the battle between Apache leaders covered soon after by then governor gold. and Mexicans seemed to assure a Perez. Perez, according to Kirker It was here among his new British temporary peace. After some give and others, had sold these pelts and friends that James renewed his re­ and take-the Mexican in charge goods without reimbursing Kirker. quest for financial redress from Gov­ wanted peace, not extermination-a James went to court to gain redress. ernor Perez. Only this time James minor skirmish occurred and the His appeal was not successful at this used his British background and Apaches left the scene. time. wrote to the British consul general in Early 1846 found the situation, if Security work for McKnight occu­ Mexico City. Kirker's appeal worked possible, worse than ever. Apaches pied Kirker during late 1840. He was no better this time and the consul were continuing to attack Mexican attempting to keep the Copper Road general would not support him. It settlements where they would kill, open so ore could be sent south to the was pointed out that Kirker had ob­ plunder, and run off the livestock. mint in Chihuahua and supplies tained licenses to hunt as a natural­ Kirker was told to go to one of the could make their way north to Santa ized, i.e., Mexican citizen. Therefore, worst-hit towns, Namiquipa, which Rita del Cobre. he had given up his British citizen­ had been hit by Apaches two weeks Late 1840 and early 1841 saw ship and the consul general could not before Kirker and his band arrived some of the worst times in Chihua­ help him. on March 4, 1846. From Namiquipa hua and Sonora. If the Comanches Back in the Scalp Hunting Business Kirker headed west following the are added to the mix, then the states The "Kirker Peace" lasted from Apache trail. He recruited men for of Coahuila, Durango, and Zacatecas 1842 until the spring of 1845. Kirker his small army as he went, mostly must be added to the list ofthe unfor­ himself is not mentioned in any offi­ Tarahumara Indians. Now he really tunate. The situation reached a cial documents or newspaper ac­ had an all-American army composed point where Kirker was called out of counts during that span. After his ofDelawares, Shawnees, Tarahuma­ "retirement" to join the governor, stint at Guadeloupe y Calvo, Kirker ras, Americans, and Mexicans. Garcia Conde, in yet another most likely moved north to his part­ On March 20 Kirker attacked an Apache village at Chuhuichupa, a lo­ , proyecto. time home at Corralitos, a ranch James worked at bargain rates north of Casas Grandes. There are cation only a few miles east of Sonora during this proyecto. For each dead some fanciful stories of several bat­ and on the western slope of the Si­ Apache he was to receive five silver tles with Apaches that Kirker was erra Madre Occidental. Only one pesos and two-and-a-half pesos for supposed to have been in, but these Apache was killed but a great each mule recovered. As Ralph are not supported by the facts. amount of cattle, bridles, saddles, Smith said in his biography of During the Kirker Peace not all and other goods were captured and Kirker: "no student of the border­ was entirely peaceful. Some minor distributed to the victors. lands would seriously accuse James Apache raiding occurred, especially The campaign in the west only in­ of profiteering at these rates." at times the Mexicans failed to pro­ furiated the Apaches, leading to Kirker Peace vide the agreed upon rations. Recall more Apache attacks. On May 19, that Apaches were not the only prob­ 1846, over 200 Apache warriors hit Finally there was a period ofpeace Janos, killing one, kidnapping two, following the signing of the Kirker lem facing the Mexican government at this time. The Comanches made and stealing over 300 head of live­ Treaties in April of 1842. Smith re- stock. And Janos was the site of a

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presidio! Kirker and his Delawares and tal in orchestrating the peaceful oc­ We now have a confluence of Shawnees did the scalping. James, cupation of Santa Fe by the Ameri­ events. First, the Apaches were gain­ with scalps on poles (according to cans. From there Magoffin traveled ing strength and devastating the Ruxton), entered Chihuahua to an south in an attempt to replicate his Chihuahua countryside. Second, war ecstatic crowd. Victory celebrations peace dialogue in Chihuahua. ~e with the United States was at hand did occur in the capital on July 10, was arrested and incarcerated In with an invasion on the horizon. 1846. The scalps were s,till up as late Chihuahua. Kirker likely met with James was to be involved in both as November 10 when Ruxton left Magoffin, either in EI Paso del Norte sides of that story. Chihuahua for New Mexico. or in Chihuahua after he was incar­ The Last Kirker Proyecto The Galeana battle was the last in cerated. James, as you know by now, would be an asset to whichever side On May 24, 1846, the Chihuahua Mexico for Kirker (at least against he joined. government called for another Indians). What was the result of the Kirker-style attack on the Apaches. many Kirker wars against the For whatever reason(s), Kirker This really was the last straw. The Apaches? Scalp hunting and the decided to join the American side Indians were clearly winning the bounty system are repugnant to and presented himself and some of war and drastic measures were nec­ most Americans, but were these his Delawares the evening ofthe bat­ essary. strategies effective? William Griffen, tle of Brazito (Christmas day, 1846) in his detailed study of the northern just southeast' of present-day Las The call for help brought forward border wars between 1832 and 1849, Cruces. He was welcomed by Colonel only one volunteer: Don Santiago felt the Mexican policies were coun­ Alexander W. Doniphan and made Kirker. He was to raise troops in any ter productive. His detailed analysis guide and interpreter. The Ameri­ manner he chose and Mexicans, for showed three times as many Mexi­ cans, however, did not completely the first time in a bounty situation, cans killed by Apaches as Apaches trust Kirker and kept a close eye on were to be included. Again, the· killed by Mexicans or men like him. bounty was 50 pesos for each Indian Kirker. This author feels that the killed or captured. Marching downstream along the Spaniards learned early on, in the Rio Grande, Kirker predicted the U. In early July something happened struggle for the Silver Road in Za­ S. forces would not meet any organ­ in Galeana, north of San Buenaven­ catecas, that peace by purchase was ized resistance. Doniphan and the tura. It is known that at least 130 In­ . a superior strategy: provide the Indi­ other officers were skeptical of dians were killed. Mexicans from ans with necessary goods at select Kirker's prediction, but it turned out nearby communities of Casas points and they will slowly accultur­ be correct as did his future predic­ Grandes and San Buenaventura had ate into the majority population. tions. He knew the country and he been asked to help in the attack. Did Kirker (and others) use cun­ knew the Mexicans very well. The Kirker and his men were at Galeana ning and surprise in their attacks on Mexican forces defeated at Brazito as well. Itis not clear from official re­ Apache camps? Of course they did. had passed through EI Paso del ports and newspaper accounts what Both sides used the same tactics. Norte and hurried south to Chihua­ role Kirker played in what was really Kirker, in an interview in 1847, hua City. an unprovoked attack 'on a group of claimed he and his men killed 487 The impact and involvement of Apaches who said they were at Gale­ Apaches while losing but three men. ana seeking peace. Kirker was really quite extraordi­ Even if we grant Kirker the remark­ nary. Reading one source about his Now this story turns full circle. It able success that he claimed, we exploits makes one wonder, but began with a recounting of Ruxton's have to think about what happened many people confirm that Kirker comments about scalps hanging as a result ofhis success. Smith's as­ was a very important figure as Doni­ from the portales at Chihuahua. The sessment of Kirker was that "his ex­ phan marched toward Chihuahua scalps noted by Ruxton were those peditions likely provoked more suf­ and the battle at Sacramento. taken at Galeana. Ruxton gave his fering, as a result of retaliatory On February 8 Kirker guided a version ofevents at Galeana that dif­ raids, than they prevented." fer from official accounts. First, Rux­ group of Missouri Volunteers and The American Invasion ton has Don Santiago "sending sev­ over 300 traders' wagons out of EI eral kegs of spirits" to the Apaches to Mter Galeana and the celebration Paso del Norte. The traders were "prepare them" for his attack. This in Chihuahua, Kirker went north­ shortly thereafter required to organ­ certainly can't be true as Apaches west to await further orders from the ize themselves into an infantry bat­ would have sensed a trap if whisky governor. The biggest concern of the talion. Some fifty wagons escaped had been sent by Kirker. Mexicans at this time was not the from Doniphan's control and made it Apache threat but the invading to Chihuahua with their cargoes. Galeana becomes the signal battle American army under Stephen in the Kirker story, There are sev­ Kirker and some troops were sent Watts Kearny. Kearny occupied eral versions (including Ruxton's) ahead of the main party to reconnoi­ Santa Fe on August 18, 1846, a scant and these are discussed in detail in ter Carrizal, on the Camino Na­ month after Galeana. Smith. Smith does not take sides in cional. Carrizal was a presidio and the issue but simply points out in­ These were challenging times for the thought was that it might still be consistencies in the several tales. Kirker as his services were sought by fortified and garrisoned. There were Kirker was at Galeana, Mexicans Mexicans and Americans. James no Mexican soldiers at Carrizal likely did most of the killing, and Wiley Magoffin had been instrumen- when Kirker arrived, and he and the

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American soldiers occupied it. was over, the Mexicans in full re­ cue a trader named Munday who In late February he went on to the treat, a retreat that passed through was surrounded by a band ofUtes on hacienda at Encinilla owned by Gov­ Chihuahua City and did not stop for the south side of Raton Pass. Mun­ ernor Trias. He found that the Mexi­ a hundred miles beyond. Doniphan's day's goods were stolen but he came can troops had left the night before army easily occupied the city. out of this scrape alive. he arrived. The next hurdle was to be Don Santiago remained with Kirker's last-known skirmish a major one as Mexican forces, all Doniphan in Chihuahua and later with Indians took place on July 23, 4,220 of them, were entrenched at a went with the army to Saltillo and 1848, when he was with Major John spot at the ford of the Rio Sacra­ the meeting with General John E. F. Reynolds and 150 men who went mento. The site was directly on the Wool. Kirker expected to be paid for north from Taos to punish a group of Camino Nacional, the old Camino his services when he reached Salti­ Jicarilla Apaches and Utes. The bat­ Real. It may be that one of Kirker's llo, but neither he nor any of the tle was at Cumbres Pass in southern Delaware or Shawnee companions traders ever received any pay for Colorado just north of the present provided the plan of battle for Doni­ their service. town of Chama, New Mexico. There phan. If a good plan had not been Doniphan, his troops, and Kirker were 36 Indian warriors killed; the adopted it would likely have been a continued south to Matamoros on Americans lost two men. Mexican victory because the Mexi­ the Rio Grande where they caught a Once again James had trouble can artillery completely covered the boat for New Orleans. Mter a short getting his full pay, this time from Camino. voyage to that city, Kirker took a the U. S. Army. It was a question of Kirker and a companion named paddle wheeler up the Mississippi to exactly when Kirker's scouting du­ Squire Collins met over several bot­ St. Louis where he arrived on July 1, ties ended and amounted to the sum tles of whisky the evening before the 1847. of $207. It was Lieutenant L. Hart, battle. There was some disagree­ Kirker Heads West Again acting assistant quartermaster, who ment between the two men that may While Kirker was in St. Louis he gave James the bad news about the impact events of the battle. McGaw gave an interview to Charles Keemle disputed pay. Hart and James ended wrote that the argument was over of the St. Louis Saturday Evening up going to Washington, D. C., arriv­ the courage lacking in James's Post and Temperance Recorder (this ing in December 1848. Kirker ap­ cousin David Kirker. Recall that interview can be read in McGaw). In pealed the ruling, without success, to David had acted in a cowardly man­ the interview Kirker told Keemle his Senator Thomas Hart Benton. The ner in 1821 in the McKnight expedi­ life story in 13 paragraphs. Included senator could not help him but the tion. At any rate Doniphan inter­ in the interview was a likeness of trip to the capital had been paid for ceded and advised them to save their J ames from a daguerreotype taken out of Lt. Hart's pocket so James fighting for the next day. by T. M. Easterly in July 1847. came out of it with a free trip to the The battle plan adopted called for Someone wrote or scratched "Don capital. a swing to the right (off the Camino Santiago Kirker, the King of New Kirker Gets Gold Fever Nacional) and then a charge up a Mexico" at the bottom of the like­ President Polk had addressed small embankment which allowed, if ness. Congress in December 1848, telling it could be carried out, the army to J ames was anxious to return to them (actually confirming rumors) attack on the Mexicans' left flank. the Southwest and find out what had about the gold strike in This plan also meant that most ofthe happened to his family which he left earlier that year. Thus, the Forty­ Mexican artillery would not be a behind in Mexico when his adven­ Niners began the rush to the West in force in the battle because it was fo­ tures with Doniphan began. He went January 1849. Some men, and there cused on the Camino Real which the west with the Third Regiment of were a few women, went by way of Mexicans assumed the Americans Missouri Mounted Volunteers, Panama, others around the Horn, would be forced to use (for a map of reaching Santa Fe in mid-October and yet others across Mexico. We are the Sacramento battle site see Jack­ 1847. here concerned with those traveling son, Following the Royal Roar!). Apparently James entered the ho­ overland, either the northern route Kirker challenged Squire Collins tel business in Santa Fe, for this fact ofthe Oregon-California trails or the to join him in silencing the battery was mentioned in the Santa Fe Re­ Santa Fe Trail, the preferred route remaining on the American right. publican in December. His family, in winter. Thus we have Kirker, Collins, and meantime, continued in EI Paso del Kirker left Washington in Janu­ one of the traders, Major Samuel Norte, Mexico, and James could not ary 1849, arrived at St. Louis on Owens, leading the charge. Owens bring his family north. Trias was January 24, and left St. Louis in late must have had a death wish (he did, still governor of Chihuahua and April heading up the Missouri on a in fact, have family problems) for he there remained a price on Kirker's steamboat to Independence Land­ was garbed all in white. The charge head. ing. Somewhere along the way, ei­ worked to perfection and the Mexi­ Kirker next was at Taos and em­ ther on the steamboat or at Inde­ cans were totally bewildered. Owens pendence; Kirker was persuaded to was killed in the charge, the only ployed (this time he would receive some pay) as a scout for the U. S. guide a group of wealth seekers to American death the day ofthe battle. California. This next episode of his Several of the American wounded Army. The first action James saw was when he and the company to life was documented in a book by one died later. The entire Mexican front of the participants, Charles Pan- broke and within an hour the battle which he was assigned went to res-

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coast. Next day, James led the party 29, 1850, attending a celebration of Pancoast was a Quaker and a south on the Santa Fe Trail, later California's newly-acquired state­ member of the group that engaged passing through San Miguel del hood. Mter the celebration James Kirker, the Peoria Pioneers. Another Vado. From there, the usual crossing boarded a ship named the Sagamore group, the Jacksonville Pioneers, of the Pecos, he went southwest, which was to take him to his home. A tagged along with Kirker because of leaving the SFT and found a camp ship's boiler exploded killing 50 peo­ his reputation as a for the party at Galisteo, south of ple. James, although hurled into the and Indian fighter. On May 15, 1849, Santa Fe. air, survived. Kirker died in the fall Kirker and entourage departed for J ames soon departed the Galisteo of 1852 at the age of 59. the West by way of the Santa Fe camp and went to Santa Fe to be re­ Kirker's Families Trail. united with daughter Petra. This His first wife Catherine and son It really was an interesting trip. was in the summer 1849; the Santa James B. Kirker continued living in Remember, his clients were all Fe Republican Extra noted that New York City. James, the son, greenhorns with no trail experience. James Kirker was back in the city. never married but did serve in the They were not skilled at shooting, James never returned to the Galis­ Civil War as a captain in the Irish hunting, or protecting themselves. If teo camp and the party left without Legion. He retired a major in June the trip were not so dangerous, their him to go to California on August 8. 1866. He died in 1868, survived by escapades might be humorous. The The Final Chapter his mother. Catherine died a first major event occurred June 10 It is not known what occupation wealthy woman in the city in 1870. It near Fort Mann on the Arkansas Kirker enjoyed between the summer is not known if either ever heard River when the caravan met Chief of 1849 and the fall of 1850. The from James or read about him. Buffalo Heart and a large contingent Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo was As to James's family by Rita Gar­ of Arapaho, Cheyenne, and Kiowa signed on February 2; 1848. Article cia, many of his descendants are still warriors. The chief showed Kirker a 11, added to the treaty at the insis­ living in southern New Mexico. His letter that he carried from Indian tence of the Mexicans, required the daughter Petra married Sam G. agent Thomas Fitzpatrick and rela­ Americans to prevent the Indians in Bean, older brother of noted Texan tions improved. It 'was all James the United States from raiding Judge Roy Bean. Sam Bean worked could do to keep someone in his own across the border into Mexico. to bring all of the Kirker clan out of group from panicking and firing a At the conclusion ofhostilities, the EI Paso del Norte to Mesilla, New weapon. Eventually the party moved Americans withdrew their forces Mexico. Mesilla (at that time west of on untouched. from the border area and never met the Rio Grande) became part of the From Fort Mann and the encoun­ their obligations under Article 11. United States after the Gadsden ter with Buffalo Heart, Kirker led Apaches mostly lived north of the Purchase was made in 1853. the caravan to a point near today's border in the United States but The three sons of James (Rafael, Pueblo, Colorado. These were gold made their living raiding Mexican Santiago, and Jose) joined Sam and seekers and James thought they communities, returning north to sell Petra in Mesilla. The four children could find the metal here in the the stolen livestock to Americans, (another died young) about which Rockies. They panned the Arkansas many on their way to the California something is known had many chil­ and the Greenhorn rivers with little gold fields and in desperate need of dren and many descendants still live success and each day without gold the animals. in southern New Mexico. ' their faith in James diminished. Thus the Mexicans were on their Thoughts on Kirker Next, James led the party south, own in the struggle against Apache What is one to think ofthis man of letting them pan other streams, but incursions. Quirquismo, Kirker­ the West, James Kirker? On one his mind was certainly on his home style warfare and rewards, contin­ hand he was a bigamist, abandoned in New Mexico. Crossing Raton Pass, ued in Mexico for decades. According two families, and killed by his own Kirker used the Mountain Route of to one source the last scalp bounty admission over 450 Indians. On the the Santa Fe Trail to arrive at the paid was in 1886, although raiding other hand he tried to make the small community of Rayado. At this continued until 1891. Southwest safer for settlers (in his time Rayado was the home of Kit There is no evidence that James own mercenary way) and he contrib­ Carson. According to Pancoast's ac­ Kirker returned to fighting Apaches uted to the American cause in their count, Carson was in Rayado when on his return to New Mexico in 1849. war against Mexico. He did take Kirker and group arrived. Pancoast It is highly unlikely that he would scalps as they were required by described Carson's home as a "two risk crossing the border since he was Mexican law in order that he be paid story log affair, surrounded by adobe still a wanted man. He moved to for his services. Recall that three walls for purpose of fortification." California in early 1850, settling in times as many Mexican settlers lost There were a dozen or so Ameri­ Contra Costa County just north of their lives to Apaches as did Apaches cans and Mexicans plus 20 Indians Mt. Diablo, near the Carquinez to men like Kirker. at the Carson home too. Apparently Straits. He had left his wife and fam­ Smith, in his biography of Kirker, Carson was somewhat reserved ily in Mexico and New Mexico but outlines in detail the positives and when the party arrived, and Pan­ was accompanied by a handful of negatives about James. He con­ coast described him as "very garru­ Delaware Indians. It is known that cluded, as I will, with th~ following: lous" in the evening. he was in San Francisco on October "However, enough information about

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him exists to show that the history of THE MEMOIRS OF JARED L. SANDERSON, the American West was more dra­ "STAGECOACH KING," PART V matic because of his coming this way. He makes it easier for us to un­ [This is the final installment of these derstand why Theodore Roosevelt memoirs, the property ofSFTA mem­ said that the Scotch-Irish were 'bold ber David J. Dunning and printed frontiersmen'-and to comprehend here with his special permission. why Matt Field said that James Anyone wishing to use any of the ma­ Kirker was 'a man of great enter­ terial in these memoirs must secure prise and skill.'" permission from him, PO Box 264, BIBLIOGRAPHY Elkins NH 032333, (603) 526-6939, BIOGRAPHIES e-mail: . Thanks McGaw, William Cochran. Savage to Dunning and his family for shar­ Scene. New York: Hastings House ing these for publication. For intro­ Publishers, 1972. ductory information, please see the Smith, Ralph Adam. Borderlander: first and second installments.] · The Life ofJames Kirker, 1793-1852. On Maxwell's Ranch, a tract of i Norman: University of Oklahoma Press, 1999. land ninety miles square, through which the trail ran. It took all of five ,,, GENERAL INTEREST ... Connelley, William Elsey, ed., Doni­ hundred men to work this land. The phan's Expedition and the Conquest house itself was a very grand one for of New Mexico and California. Kan­ that time and locality. sas City, Missouri: Bryant and Maxwell owned some of the finest Jared L. Sanderson, age 91. Douglas Book and Stationery Co., horses in the country and lived in to everyone, and gave us the privi­ 1907. every way like a ruler on this grand, lege of establishing other stations on Edwards, Frank S. A Campaign in New Mexico. Ann Arbor: University Mi­ though somewhat wild estate. his land with grazing pasture for our crofilms, 1966. At times we were delayed on ac­ animals. He was a man with lots of Field, Matt. Matt Field on the Santa Fe count of storms, and we always tried money always, yet never seemed Trail, ed. by John Sunder. Norman: if possible to put up at Maxwell's. It grasping or desirous of taking ad­ University of Oklahoma Press, was in reality a little village, com­ vantage of anyone. I remember sev­ 1960. plete in every respect. Large stone eral instances showing the largeness Galley, Frank B. "James Baird, Early of his nature, a few of which I will Santa Fe Trader," Missouri Histori­ eating houses, stables and with it all cal Society Bulletin, XV (No.3, an air of hospitality seldom seen. To record. 1959): 178-179. a traveller taking this trip for the At one time, one of my messengers Gregg, Josiah. Commerce of the Prai­ first time it was a great and pleasant came in with several packages of ries, ed. by Max Moorhead. Norman: surpnse. money from his eastern markets. University of Oklahoma Press, One ofthe packages had in some way 1954. Maxwell himself, was a man of become broken, and showed its con­ Griffen, William B. Utmost Good Faith: wonderful magnetic powers, and The Patterns of Apache-Mexican held sway alike over high and low, tents plainly - a package of green­ Hostilities in Northern Chihuahua the traveller, the Mexican, the In­ backs. The messenger was much dis­ Border Warfare, 1821-1848. Albu­ dian. His possessions were princely. turbed and was profuse with expla­ querque: University of New Mexico Immense flocks ofsheep, forty thous­ nations. Maxwell took the other par­ Press, 1982. and at one time, grazed on his land cels from him, and pushing the bro­ Jackson, Hal. Following the Royal ken one back to the messenger said: Road: A Guide to the Historic with little Mexican boys as shep­ Camino Real de Tierra Adentro. Al­ herds, with the regulation Collie dog. "There, don't worry, keep that for buquerque: University of New Mex­ He raised immense crops of hay and yourself, I think its worth that to ico Press, 2006. grain and being able to grind the cross the plains and bring that Moorhead, Max L. New Mexico's Royal wheat himself, owning his own grist­ amount safely to me." Road: Trade and Travel on the Chi­ mill, which he brought across the He did not seem to care for money '( huahua Trail. Norman: University of Oklahoma Press, 1958. plains from St. Louis, added largely for his individual use, he made it eas­ Pancoast, Charles Edward. A Quaker to his income. ily, and valued it as a token of suc­ Forty-Niner, The Adventures of He owned cattle by the thousands, cess, and as a means to help others Charles Edward Pancoast on the yes, by the tens of thousands and with. He was more like a kind father American Frontier, ed. by Anna Pas­ horses by the thousands. There was to the many shiftless, carefree Mexi­ chall Hannum, Philadelphia: Uni­ cans who shared his bounty. versity of Pennsylvania Press, 1930. a good market for all he raised, as he Ruxton, George F. Adventures in Mex­ supplied all the forts in this neigh­ At another time I was going on to ico and the . New borhood, and the stage company was Santa Fe, and Maxwell was on the York: Harper and Bros. Publishers, no small customer ofhis. All of our coach. It was a six mule team, and 1848. passengers on our coaches were his the leaders were beauties and very Webb, James Josiah. .Adventures in paid guests, and the amount of feed fast, they skimmed along barely the Santa Fe Trade, 1844-1847, ed. for our horses and mules at the vari­ touching the ground. Maxwell by Ralph P. Bieber. Glendale.: Ar­ thur H. Clark Co., 1931. ous stations near by was a large wanted them, and asked me if I trade for him. He was very generous would sell them. Knowing I could re-

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well known all over the country and Remains of sufferers came from all parts of the a Sander­ country for the cures they are noted son stage­ coach, for. reprtedly The Indians held these waters in used on high e~teem and used to sit by the the Santa' Stagecoach stamp used by Sander­ ho~r wIth their feet in the mud up to Fe Trail. son's Overland Stage Company. theIr knees. Rheumatism and all blood diseases were helped. brought about such a change. The place them at my next station, I said Everything then was crude and wonderful climate had much to do I would. "How much"? he asked. I re- with it, the absence from the many , plied "Six Hundred Dollars." There primitive. Log cabins and tents were ?ft~n seen. Later years brought forth calls and duties of high civilization was .no questioning on his part, but was a help, but as much as all else he Immediately replied "I'll take Its Improvements. The railroad com­ pany secured the springs and built was the constant association with them," and when we reached Las Ve­ healthy natures and a forgetfulness gas, he paid me the money. He large and commodious bathhouses, and on the top of the hill, a few min­ of self and personal matters in the started with them to Fort Stanton benefitting of others. ninety miles due south ofVegas, and utes walk is the Montezuma or Phoe­ nix Hotel, first named Montezuma, Las Vegas is now quite a city, has reached there in twenty four hours. I churches and schools and stores, but ~ept on to Santa Fe, but the next but after the fire, an even more beau­ tiful. hotel was built there, it was the work and influence ofthis seeker tIme I saw him, he said, "Well, of health will never be forgotten. Sanderson, those mules are all right, called The Phoenix. I made the trip in quick time." He The name Las Vegas means "The Most of the people here were poor was a bold reckless driver, but never Meadows," and it is a very fertile and and ignorant, living in mud houses met with accident. beautiful spot on the hill where the sleeping on untanned skins of ani: ~otel mals, the flesh ofwhich has provided In 1867 there were discoveries of stands. The view is very fine. It IS reached by a separate driveway them with food. The dress was usu­ gold on the Maxwell Ranch, and the ally simply a petticoat and I have of­ travel on our coaches was largely in­ and at every turn it looks to a s~ranger ten seen them doing their simple creased. It became such a rush we as though each succeeding VIew was more beautiful and exten­ family washing in the creek or river were obliged to add more coaches which runs through that city. and the times were lively for all. sive than the previous ones. The families at the surrounding About fifty miles this side - east ­ Prospectors rushed in and for a of Santa Fe, is one of the garden while it was a bustling time. Some government forts make this place their home, when it was not consid­ spots ofAmerica. It was when I knew found good values, while many went it one of the stage stations of The back and sought new fiel[d]s. Specu­ ered safe for them to stay at the forts. ~n the. sixties this little city had Overland Route. It lies in a beautiful ~ators took hold, and all of that gen­ valley with a fine growth oftrees and Ial pastoral atmosphere was lost in qUIte a httle business, mostly done by the J.ews, while they relied upon a clear sparkling brook running the made rush for gold. Maxwell sold through the land close by the house out, and went to Fort Stanton, which the IndIans and Mexicans for the trade. which was a adobe building, a rem­ place he made his home until he nant of former long ago Spanish oc­ It was here that a most interest­ died. He was a kind hearted, gener­ cupancy. It was this place in early ing affair took place right among our ous man ofnoble impulses, born to be days the Spaniards first selected as own people. Among the passengers a ruler of men. the site for the City of Santa Fe and on the Overland Coach from Kansas One hundred miles further on we beside some buildings for residence City was a very beautiful young lady reach Fort Union a large and well they built a large church or cathe­ named Morton, from New York, who equipped government fort. These dral. This was all deserted for many was suffering from lung trouble. Be­ forts were supplied by us with mail years and ran to ruin and decay. lieving that the climate of New Mex­ a.nd were themselves of great protec­ Then a Pole named Kolloskie [Mar­ ico would benefit her, she left all be­ tIon to us. tin Kozlowski] took up this land and hind, and came to Las Vegas. When We journey on to Las Vegas sev­ cultivated it and made a most attrac­ she arrived there and saw the condi­ enty five miles, a sort ofbig Me~ican tive spot. The mountain trout caught tion of the people, the desire to help Ranch or Ranchers town. It was al­ them possessing her, she at once es­ and served fresh from the stream to ways somewhat of a pleasurable tablished schools, and whenever she the tired traveller, game of all kinds, change to reach this town. There was found talent or a desire to improve sometimes it was bear meat, wild a different phase of life here. The oneself, she spared neither time nor sheep, deer, antelope and even squir­ people were more alive and more money to help them. rels, and perhaps quail, for all of varied in nationality and speech. these abounded here, and Kosloskie The greater part of the population, I did not see her again for about a :vas an ideal host and spared nothing :year, and was amazed at the change however, were Mexican with some III the entertainment of his guests, Indians, a few Spanish and some III her. She had grown strong and beside giving them a warm hearty Americans. It is about ~even miles we~l, and. in place of the shrinking welcome. from here that the mud baths are lo­ dehcate gIrl, was a robust, confident woman. Then I realized what had When the Santa Fe railroad cated. Even at this time they were pushed her engines into the front

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ranks oftravel, and crowded out into berg] soon had large and beautiful SAMUEL PARKER: the background of life, the old stage stores. A FLEETING GLIMPSE coach, Kosloskie's ranch was left as All ofthe farming was done by the one of its chief mourners, and in the most primitive methods. The Mexi­ by David Clapsaddle very whisperings of its pines and the cans plowed, using a forked branch [Clapsaddle is president of the Wet/ murmuring of its clear, well stocked of the cottonwood tree. Immense Dry Routes Chapter and a frequent stream, sighed for the days that were flocks of sheep and goats were contributor to Wagon Tracks.] no more. Even the trout in those wa­ raised, the lower class Mexican liv­ THE lives of some frontier charac­ ters are not disturbed now for the ing largely on the meat of the goat. It ters are well chronicled by way of train rushes by in its mad haste to formed a large part of their suste­ journals, military records, newspa­ reach Santa Fe. Weeds and sunflow­ nance. Such is the climate here that pers, and family accounts. Others ers have taken the place of the well they are allowed to roam all winter have only a paucity of data to docu­ tiled garden of the Pole. Everything in the hills. is still and only breathes of a past un­ ment their lives. Such is the case of Labor was cheap, in fact they did Samuel Parker who briefly appears known to the present generations, not know the value of money. A and we unconsciously hum the in a local county history, a single let­ pretty bauble would content a ter from the commanding officer at i words: "And the place that knew greaser for his days work. ! 0 them shall know them no more. ["] Fort Larned, and one solitary sen­ There were many relics of former tence from Fort Supply: Indian Ter­ Santa Fe the southern end of this civilization. We often found large h,,~ ritory, a history of the post . route, was in 1860 a crude little city stone houses crumbling to pieces. established in 1868. These few refer­ of about 4000 people, mostly low These homes looked as though in ences provide a fleeting glimpse of caste Mexicans or greasers, as they their day they had been well built. Mr. Parker. are called. The houses or huts in Occasionally an idol was found bur­ Compiling a centennial history of which they lived were of clay or mud ied in the walls of the house. I have called adobe. The streets were ir­ Pawnee County in 1876, Henry in my possession an old brass candle Booth, former post trader at Fort regular and narrow and nothing at­ stick given me in 1865 by Bishop tractive or inviting. Larned and the principal founder of Lamy of Santa Fe, said to be 400 Pawnee County and the City of Father [Jean Baptiste] Lamy was years old. It was formerly in the alter Larned, wrote in his verbose style, the Bishop and all of the population of an old Cathedral. . "In the meantime the Star of Empire was Catholic. Mining, that had in former years was rolling westward, and in 1864 It was here,· at this time, I re­ been of such large return to the Samuel Parker, the advance courier ceived one of the pleasantest and Spaniards, was then at standstill, of the hardy pioneers,-who were to most elaborate welcomes that I ever and Santa Fe had reverted from its develop this country and cause it to had. On the approach to Santa Fe of former glory in early days to the blossom as a rose-arrived and built a my private carriage, the general in crudeness ever existing with the In­ ranch on Pawnee Fork about one and charge of the Post sent out a com­ dian and Mexican, only awaiting for a half miles above its mouth."l pany of cavalry with a band of musi­ the American to re establish the civi­ The year was 1864 and the loca­ cians to escort us to the city where a lization and progression lost, when tion was just west of the Wet Route fine banquet awaited us. The resi­ the Indian tired of his subjection to Crossing of the Santa Fe Trail on the dents were in gala attire, and the the rule of the Spaniard and never Pawnee River. Not content with a whole city presented a holiday ap­ wanting anything but native's inde­ single enterprise, Parker moved up­ pearance. It was the first American pendence, asserted their rights and stream about three miles to open a outfit that had entered the city of drove the Spaniards from the land. second ranche in 1865 near the Dry Santa Fe for many years. [This is There is a strange feeling that Route Crossing of the Santa Fe Trail simply not true. Trade on the Santa comes over one as theylook at the ru­ on the Pawnee River three miles east Fe Trail had been growing since ins of a lost people, who years gone of Fort Larned. In time, Parker sold 1821, and stagecoach service had by have lived and enjoyed all the the ranche to partners identified been regular into Santa Fe since benefits of civilization, even as you only as Fortat and Fletchfield who in 1850.] and I today. turn sold out to Dwight and Waggi­ Although my passenger list num­ Ten· miles south of Durango, we nero Finally, in 1867, Wagginer as­ bered but from ten to twenty daily, it saw plainly all the signs of a system sumed full ownership of the ranche. soon changed the aspect of the city of irrigation, now so prevalent in the In the same year, unidentified Indi­ and the character of its population. west. ans raided the ranche, driving off the Stores were established, mostly by I saw whole streets of houses gone stock and burning the building. Hebrew merchants, there was but Thinking discretion to be the better one American firm, that of Johnson to decay. Everything was neglected, forsaken and dirty. Scorpians lurked part of valor, Wagginer sold the & Co. In every corner. burnt-out remains ofthe ranche to A. The industry, the perseverance of It was in Santa Fe in 1856 that H. Boyd and moved to safer quar­ the Jew, led largely to the advance­ Bishop Lamy established his mis­ ters.2 ment ofthis city's growth and impor­ sion and commenced his great work How long Parker maintained the tance. among the Mexicans. ranche near the Wet Route Crossing Seligman Speilgelburg [Spiegle- is not known, but he was still there

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in 1867 according to the following ing of two cattle, each of the parties followed at Fort Zarah. As such, the letter. claiming said cattle, the following author's speculation is that Parker Hd Qs Fort Larned, Kansas. words: 'If there is any money in this may well be an archetype of those March 6th, 1867 thing, I will decide in your favor,' or men who exploited the few resources To the Asst. Adjt. General Hd. Q. Dist words to that effect, thereby intend­ available on the 19th-century fron­ Upper Arkansas. ing to convey to said Losse, the idea tier. Sir, that if he, Losse would bribe him NOTES In compliance with Gen. Orders No. (Lieutenant Bell), he (Lieutenant 1. Henry Booth, Centennial History of 3 Hd Qs Dist Upper Arkansas, I have the Pawnee County, unpublished, 1876, honor to make the following report: Bell) would decide in his (Losse's) fa­ vor. This at Fort Zarah, Kansas, on Santa Fe Trail Center Library. On last Thursday, the 28th of Febru­ 2. David Clapsaddle, A. H. Boyd: Enfrepre­ ary, a small party of Cheyennes went or about the 27th day of February, neur of the Prairie (Larned: Tiller and to a ranch; kept by a man by the name 1869." Toiler, n.d.). of Parker, six (6) miles below this Post, The 1st specification of charge N 3. Henry Asbury to AAG Dist. Of the Upper and ordered him to cook supper for Arkansas, March 6, 1867, Letters Sent. reads, "In that 2nd Lieutenant B. .F. them. He had to comply and they, on Bell 10th U. S. Cavalry, a commIS- Fort Larned, Fort Larned National Park finding he had no sugar to give them, , . Archives. threatened his life and would undoubt­ sioned officer in the military serVIce 4. General Court-Martial Orders No. 56, Fort edly have killed one of his men, if he of the United States, did, in an offi­ Larned National Historic Site Archives. had not concealed himself.... cial communication addressed to his 5. Robert Carriker, Fort Supply: Indian Terri­ I am Sir Very Respectfully Your Obdt. commanding officer, say: 'I consider tory (Norman: University of Oklahoma Srvt. Mr. Parker's present arrest an Press, 1970), 44. \, Henry Asbury, Capt 3rd US Infantry outradge and an injustice,' referring CONVERSE OF THE Bvt Maj USA Commanding3 to an arrest made by his command­ PRAIRIES The next notice of Parker comes ing officer. This at Fort Zarah, Kan­ -BOOK NOTICES- from court-martial records ofMay 21 sas, on or about the 7th day ofApril, and June 22, 1869, when 2nd Lt. B. 1869." Hal Jackson, Following the Royal F. Bell, 10th U. S. Cavalry, was ar­ Road: A Guide to the Historic The court found Lt. Bell not guilty Camino Real de Tierra Adentro. raigned and tried at Fort Harker on on the above-mentioned specifica­ various charges. The 4th specifica­ Albuquerque: University of New tions in Charge 1. As to the specifica­ Mexico Press, 2006.. Pp. xviii + 227. tion of Charge I reads, "In that 2nd tions in charge III, the prosecution, Lieutenant B. F. Bell, 10th Regiment Illustrations, maps, suggested read­ in both instances entered a nolle pro­ ings, appendix, index. Paper, $19.95, U. S. Cavalry, a person in the land sequi (refuse to pursue). The court forces ofthe U. S. did wrongfully and plus shipping, available from Last found Bell guilty in the above­ Chance Store. knowingly sell, convey, or dispose, to mentioned in charge IV and in other one Samuel Parker, one mule, the charges not here discussed. Resul­ Hal Jackson has produced a model guidebook for El Camino Real from property of the U. S. furnished f~r tantly, Bell was "dismissed and ~a­ the military service of the U. S. ThIS shiered" from the U. S. Army. WhIle San Juan Pueblo north of Santa Fe, NM to Mexico City. The volume is at Fo'rt Zarah, Kansas, on or about Parker, a civilian, was not a subject , . enhanced with 56 maps, 50 Illustra- the 1st day of April, 1869." of the court-martial, at least on one The 2nd specification of Charge II occasion he was placed under arrest tions, and several sidebars with. . de- tailed information about speCIfIC top- reads, "In that 2nd Lieutenant B. F. by Fort Zarah's commanding officer.4 ics, including Juan de Onate, ace­ Bell, 10th Cavalry, a commissioned In September 1869 Parker was in officer in the military service of the quias, genizaros, Jornada del Muer­ residence at Fort Supply, Indian to, and mining of silver. U. S., having loaned or disposed of, to Territory, where he had secured a Approximately half the book is Samuel Parker, one mule, the prop­ contract to supply hay to the post. erty ofthe U. S., when called upon by Evidently, he had other business in­ devoted to the Royal Road in the U.s. his commanding officer to have the terests, as Robert Carriker reported, and the remainder to the route in said mule returned to the govern­ "SamuelParker, post hay contractor, Mexico. There is an appendix with information about travel in Mexico. ment corral, replied that said mule was discovered to be doubling as a was lost, which reply was willfully whiskey runner; trading his potent The directions, historical details, false and intended to deceive, within wares to the Indians for horses."5 and maps are so precise and cl~ar the knowledge of said Lieutenant As to the character of Samuel that any traveler will be able to fmd the Camino and an amazing array of Bell. This at Fort Zarah, Kansas, on Parker, it would be safe to conclude or about the 5th day ofApril, 1869." that he did have a certain entrepre­ historic sites. The entire historic The 4th specification of charge III neurial streak as observed in his road is worthy of attention, and this handsome volume is the essential reads, "In that 2nd Lieutenant B. F. various places of residence at or near Bell, 10th Cavalry, a commissioned U. S. Army posts. On the frontier of guide to finding and enj?ying the rich heritage of EI Cammo Real. officer in the military service of the the 1860s, opportunities for commer­ There are special pleasures to be ex­ U. S. did say to one Losse, a beef con­ cial ventures of any kind were perienced at places where Onate tractor for the Subsistence Depart­ largely limited to army posts and camped or crossed a stream. A trip to ment at Fort Zarah, Kansas, when trading ranches. Such is seen in Zacatecas is recommended to everyo­ asked by said Losse to settle a dis­ Parker's ranches near Fort Larned, ne. Read this book and join Jackson's pute between him, Losse, and o.ne his legal and illegal activities at Fort tour next year (see p. 4). Samuel Parker, relative to the kIll- Supply, and whatever pursuits he

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ITEMS LISTED IN MALCOLM CONN'S STORE LEDGER, COUNCIL GROVE, KANSAS, 1859 MALCOLM Conn's "Stone Store" Special thanks are extended to Katie sack rifle was a leading emporium on the Davis Gardner and Angela Elor­ butter Santa Fe Trail in Council Grove, reaga for compiling and sharing this 1 pr. Pants Kansas Territory. His two-story information. crackers store was built in 1858, and Conn Items Listed in Conn's Store Ledger pickles closed his business in Council Grove bowls 1 Bottle Claret tin cups in 1864. For the story of this enter­ coffee 1 quart prise, see Mark L. Gardner, "Mal­ cotton hose letter paper colm Conn: Merchant on the Trail," pearl buttons nce tobacco in Wagon Tracks, I (Feb. 1987): 7-8, kid gloves buckskin spools thread also available at the SFTA web site 1 box matches whiskey under "Best of Wagon Tracks." The books 1 tin milk strainer information below is taken from socks bacon goose neck hoe 1 pro Books Conn's store ledger for the period file May through December 1859. This is 1 box caps awls & handles 1 jug the only known ledger that survives pocket knife 3. yrds. Grey Flannel from the business. mackerell vinegar , tin bucket v It was saved by Emily Conn Asen­ paper sacks • cod fish spade dorf, trader Conn's granddaughter, yds. Calico 2 doz. Glass .and discovered by her son,· James nails ladies shoes Conn Asendorf (who attended the robe cloths line cowbell rope Council Grove SFTA symposium) af­ molasses ter her death. It had been stored in starch curry comb silk cravat her home in Carthage, Missouri. The sugar pro Moccasins ledger is a bound leather book with salt 1 white shirt lined paper. The first few pages were bacon lariat undershirt made into a scrapbook by subse­ mdse. Rtnd (merchandise returned) candles hoe quent members of the Conn family. soda 2 papers garden seed The rest of the entries are mostly bobbin silk 1 paper tacks legible, intact, and in good condition. box & lid 9 yrds. print shoes/ child shoes 1pro Drawers The exterior leather is fragile and razor strap crumbling. 1 yd. Drilling braser 3 papers of tobacco The 1859 ledger was transcribed cake soap writing paper by Katie Davis Gardner, great-great­ shaving brush bottle ink pills granddaughter of Malcolm Conn. steel pins tea 1bundle envelopes The transcription was typed by her hat comb work study student from the Univer­ platter ball wrapping twine sity of Colorado, Angela Elorreaga, bushel dried peach 1 flash & powder apples castor oil at the Colorado Springs Pioneers ticking Museum. They tried not to duplicate par egoril cotton socks 1 bottle smiths tonic objects listed but did restate them if postage stamps 1 bottle brandy an adjective set something substan­ child's stocking bacon ham tially apart from the way it was gingham cigars cheese listed in another area. The listing is 1 horse shirt wash tub • in order as items appeared in the 3 c stamp 1 pro Overalls t ledger, and no attempt was made to stamped envelopes ball cotton twine group items by type. Every effort was days of labor sponge made to retain all abbreviations, looking glass bell I box shaving cream ::. .J original spelling, punctuation, and linen coat " 2 yrds .. Casinett 1 tub capitalization found in the ledger. A 5 yrds. Chick starch & indago (indigo) blank space (underlined) indicates box pills lock words found to be illegible. Occasion­ bottle pectoral 1 ox whip hanks thread corn meal ally they have put their interpreta­ garters tion in parentheses next to an abbre­ axe handle yrds. Check 3 yrds & ribbon viated word, such as "Pikes Peak" for calico silk lining P.P. This list is printed to shed more flour 1 yoke cattle muslin 1 pipe & stem light on the types of goods that were buttons traveling on the Trail as well as of­ set cups & saucers Irish linen 'h lb. Alspice fered for sale to traders, settlers in Salt butter laddie Council Grove, and the Kaw Indians Eggs tea pot· who used the store as a trading post. Vest 1 pr slippers peppermint

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bridle Chery 8# sugar pro Gloves Cove Oysters 2 plug tobacco bottles morning call Sardines 1 Bot. Ink quinine morphine Herring 1 paper hooks & eyes lumber Box Pie Fruit 1 spade raisins & candy Sacks Salt 2 bus. oats 12 in. file Pie plates 1 barn frame 1 pro Cork soles 1 sack dairy salt 3 yds. blue drill 1 leghorn hat loaf sugar Old lumber 1 carriage Norden map 1 churn 1 box mustard Riding whip 1 box Wrights pills 5 primmers (school books) Stirrup lariat 1 chek cout Stationary 1 can powder 2 'h yds. osnabury 2 school books 1 box Eleys Caps 1 linen coat Bitters & quinine 1 Buck shot Horseshoe nails 1 bottle bitters 1 knife scabbard 1# almonds 2 ox yokes & bows 2 brooms 'I. # cloves 1 pro Calf boots '12 # sage Matches 2 sets knives & forks 2 yrds. Cambric 1 glass syringe 1 dr. cup (drinking) 2 yrds. Swiss edging Scythe stone 1 drawer lock Raisins 1 Hdkf (handkerchief) 1 plates 1 Brush hair 5 glass tumblers 1 bar lead 1 maps P.P. (Pikes Peak) potatoes 1 paper pins Hay rakes store pipe thimbles Ladies Slippers Cowbell & strap beans 1 box cream tartar 2 yds. Book Muslin spring scales 1 Ladies Belt 2 yds. White Ribbon bolts & screws 1 box hair pins 1 doz. Screws ladies garters 1 spoon 11 '/, # skillet needles 1 canteen short 1 coffee pot 2 yds towling 11 # meal 5 bowls 4 yrds table spread 1 fine comb 1 wash basin crackers & herring 1 box Spts Nitro 1 tea pot whet-stone 2 stooped pails 1 2nd Hand Halter grain cradle 1 box Bitters 1 set teaspoons 1 bottle Hales diarrhea mixture 1 box tonic syrup Calomel 1 fancy coat 1 goods box 1 box Laudanum pistol flask 1 bed tick 1/, # starch hatchet 1 cow 'h set knives well bucket 1 steer 3 plates bottle gargling oil Saddle 1 pair suspenders 1 steer Labor 1 silk Hdkf 1 plow Mule trade 1 neck Hdkf 1 pick Digging basement 2 yards Vailing 1 bottle Jamaca ginger (Jamaica) Freighting 1 lawn necktie 1 pro Spurs Pony 1 collar cotton socks Ox 1 cow & calf 1 martingales Horse 1 froe turpentine 7 otter skins 1 can peaches Tartaric acid 2 mink skins 1 bot Whiskey Syringe 24 cat skins (& making cat robe) 1 pair candle Moulds Red oxide murcury (mercury) 1 over shirt Wicking & spoons Jack knife Memo book 1 box Seidlet & Powders Pine lumber Pocket memo Mosquito Web & net 1 molasses pitche (r) Molasses barrels 1 wagon cover spool floss 1 % yd. Twill cloth 11 large wolfskins Robe & Fur alc Bridle 59 small wolfskins 3 yrds. Overall stuff 1 'h yd. Gingham 35 coon skins 3 yrds. Check 1 can tomatoes 4 otter skins 4 sheins silk 13# dried meat 2 wildcat & Badger skins 2 'h yds. Gila Plaid Smoking tobacco 1 hoop skirt 2 'h yds linen Chewing tobacco 1 razor 1 pro Linen pants 1 stick timber 1 box yeast powder " 1 belt Empty barrel 1 bot. Kathairun 1 oz. Blue Mass 10# tallow 1 set plates 2 lights glass 1 pony traded for wagon 1 set cups & saucers 1 lb. Ginger nuts 1 money belt 1 yd. Domestic 1 Ig. Kettle Dinner Shaving outfit 1 box linament 1 little skin (from robe & fur) Printing cards 1 bed cord 1 tin bucket Boards 1 paper court plaster 1 well bucket (to Indian Ed.L.) Plank Ammunition 1 yard white drilling Lumber 14 Ibs. dry hide Ploughs 6 yds. pant stuff # 5 plows Fancy moccasins 1 doz. Buttons # 12 breakers Sircungle 1 Gimlet pepper sauce 1 sett Double Harness 1 set hoops (barrel) tomato catsup Horsehire 36 Deer Hair BlackBerry Brandy 1 blanket coffin

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hollow auger . 2 pro Kid gloves 1 shot belt Timber 2 fawn skins 2 pro Amer. Blue Blankets Lumber & trimming for coffin Writing materials 1 box palm flowers Siff back saw Ma 4 packs envelopes Hooks Hinges Repairs on gun 1 Vinegar Cruit Curry comb & brush 2 '12 yds. Oregon Sheeting 1 oz. Assoefetida 1 # Grain pepper Epsom salts 1 bottle castor oil Repair of plow 1 bot. Expectorant 1 bottle Mustang Linament Commission 1 bot. Sweet oil 1 can Oysters & Crackers 2 earthen jars Calomel & Opium 1 Cross Cut Saw 1 faucet 2 Bench screws 2 yds. Cassinett Bot. Turpentine 3 Quires Sand paper 2 Chambers Varnish 1 bot. Sasparilla 8 # Butter Crackers Set Books 1 bot. Vermifugu 1 # Starch 1 auxle Hand axe 10 # Gals. Vinegar 8 yds.lawn 1 bot. R.R.R. 10 # Crushed Sugar 2 chalk lines 1 metalic faucet 1 Lead Pencil 1 wash board 1 box Palmflowers 1 Blk 4 112 yds. Factory 1 bot. Pain Killer 5 Foot Scrapers 3 yds. Jeans 1 Cholera mixture 1 Bushel Apples 1 wooden pait 3 rolls Wadding (shotgun) To Making 3pr. Gloves 1 copy book 1 gal. Fish oil Aloes and Rhubarb , 44 '12 yds. Sheeting 1 can 2 Bars Lead ~/ 1 pro Calf boots 1 pro Brogans Buffalo Jug 1 bot. Extract lemon 1 Shut (Paste Board) 2 # Imperial Tea 1 # figs 1 amt. Bill for storage 1 # Allspice 1 canteen 2 tin tumblers 2 plush caps 1 fiddlestring 2 Rakes 1 pt. Peals foot oil 1 blank book 2 Snaths 1 Chomi (??) & Powder & Sulpher bot. Lemon syrup 1 oz. Rhubarb 1 Hammer paint & oil '/.. oz. Bark 2 yds. Lindsey 1 oz. Gum Arabic 1 Tromel '/.. yd. Velvet Tobacco 1 Stone jar 6 Bottles Jaynes Alterative Hats 3 lead pencils 30 Watermelons . Fabric 25 corn sacks 1 Wooden Spicket Toals/hardware Candles 1 Britch Clout Boots 1 red cord 1 Sand Stone Butter 9 yds. Cotton 13 # Shoulder Bacon Pills/ bitters/medicine 1 box Blacking 1 Grey Horse, Troughs & Tack Flour 1 Whet stone amt. Pd. For repair on Buggie Molasses 1 pro Gaiters 1 pair Brass Bullet Moulds Soup 1 bot. Tonic Syrup 10 yds. Danask Curtain Mackerel 1 box Sardines 3 pro Children Hose Crackers 2 Hickory Shirts 1 Roll Feuetting (Ferreting) Twine 1 melon 112 # BestTea Soap 1 knife 3 # Brass Kettles Candles 2 powder flasks 1 # Copperas Salt 3 yds. Hickory 1 Rifle Coffee '/2 # Hemp twine 9 Mail Registers Apples 1 Shovel 41 # Harrow Teeth Ammunition/powder 1 Wash pan 11 # Sheet Iron 1 pro Drawers 1 pro Stirrup irons Paper Saleraters 1 quire foolscap (paper) 1 Ball Candle Wick 1 pro Moccasins 1 jug 1 square 112 Gall. Tar 3 fans 1 chisel 1 pro Knitting needles 1 box Shallenberger pills 1 paper Tacks 1 Grey overcoat 1 pro Mitts 1 Scythe & Snath 1 pc. Wood /0 nailing wagon tongue 1 paint brush 1 woolen shirt 1 3 pt. Blanket '"• 1 doz. Coffin screws 2 Hay Forks 1 box Said litz Powder 3 yds. velvet 2 # Buffalo meat Buckskins 15 ft. Black Walnut Lumber 1 Mexican Saddle 1 Bot. Stomach Bitters ,t , ,,,..' 1 bot. Jamaica Ginger 1 oil stone 1 Pad Lock 9 yds. Lawn 1 bus. cornmeal 1 Adds Eye Hammer 2 doz shirt buttons 1 Gun Sock 1 Boot Box 1 pro Gloves 4 Watermelons 4 oz. Jallop 1 Palmleaf fans 1 bot. O.B.B. (Bitters) 1 pr.Cot. Drawers 1 Ladies Collar & sleeves 1 Shot Gun 4 Deep Dishes 4 window sash 4 yds. Flannel 1 pro Buck gloves Groceries Solace Tobacco 1 # Ground Pepper 1 bot. Oil spike 1 pro Kip Boots 1 Bot. India Chulagagen 1 Water keg Bitters Ginger & Calomel 1 Butcher knife 1 shaving outfit 3 112 yds. merino 1 Bot. Blk. B. Brandy 1 whip lash 1 Blacking brush 1 Box Sardines Looking glass 1 box blacking 2 Bottles Corn Whiskey 2 Jaconet 1 Gun Tube Cloves 1 yd. Berage 1 Bed stead '12 # Alum 2 Thimbles 1 pr. Boots 1 ox whip 1 box Ayers Pills 1 pap. (paper) Con'd Powders 1 112 yds. Delaino

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2 small white dishes 1 yd. Fancy Flannel La Junta CO 81050 Frying Pan 16 # Putty Telephone: 719-383-5010 2 Log Chains 1 Boys Cap E-mail: [email protected] Boreax 1 Tea # Website: www.nps.gov.beol Smoothing Plain (Plane) Goods box Hand Saw 1 Butcher knife · Call for off-season hours and pro- 2 Quires Sand Paper 1 Stiring Plow grams. 3 Bottle Pale Brandy 1 Old Stone Boggsville Historic Site 'h yd. Satinet 6 pS. Solace PO Box 68 Buttons and Tape 67 'h # Green Hide Hauling 2 Locks for Cellar Las Animas CO 81054 1 Reain Map 1 axx & helve Telephone: 719-456-1358 1 Stirrup Strap 1 full suit of clothes E-mail: [email protected] 1 Tin Lantern 1 # candles 1 Lariat 1 can oysters Website: www.bentcounty.org/site­ 1 pc. of Store Pipe 1 coffee mill sandcelebrations/historic/htm 2 Mill files 4 tin plates • Open 10-4 daily for self-guided 1 paper finishing nails 4 tin cups walking tours. 4 yds. Bleached Muslin 1 tin pan Boot Hill Museum 1 pc. pasteboard Trimmings Frying Pan Front Street 2 oz. Pow'd Aloes 1 skillet Dodge City KS 67801 1 Small Tin Bucket 1 wooden Bucket 1 'h inch Auger 32 Bus Meal Telephone: 620-227-8188 10 Gal. Linseed Oil & Can 12" butts. screws, locks E-mail: [email protected] 1 Key White Lead 1 doz clothes pins Website: www.boothill.org 1 Paint Brush • Museum open 9 am-5 pm Monday­ 3 % gals Turpentine & Can THE CACHES Saturday, and 1-5 pm SundaY, Ad­ 1 Sash Brush -MUSEUM NEWS­ mission charged. 1 Bot. Ess: Lemon (Essence of Lemon) 1 Pckg. Isinglass Paula Manini, editor • Boot Hill Cemetery, Boot Hill & 10 # Sheet Iron This column lists events and news Front Street. Open Monday­ 1 Can Lobsters from Trail sites, museums, and re­ Saturday 9 am-5 pm and Sunday 1-5 pm. 1 pro Gauntlets lated organizations. Please send in­ 1 pro Mitts • Santa Fe Trail Ruts nine miles 1 Door Lock formation following the format be­ west of Dodge City on US Hwy 1 Belt low. Be sure to include your address, 400; markers and observation 2 '12 yds. Lindsey phone number, and e-mail. The next point. Open during daylight hours. 25 grains Quinine column will list hours and activities 4 chairs Cimarron Heritage Center Museum 1 Pair Otter Gloves scheduled for March through May. PO Box 214 pen & holder To be included, send information to Boise City OK 73933 '12 # Saltpeter Paula Manini at the Trinidad His­ Telephone: 580-544-3479 1 pair Congress Gaiters tory Museum (see below) by January E-mail: museum@ptsLnet 1 revolver 10, 2007.. Website: www.ptsLnet/users/museum 1 Doz. Fine cut Tobacco 2 Cupboard Locks Arrow Rock State Historic Site • Open Monday-Saturday, 10 am-12 1 pr. Buck lined gauntletts PO Box 1 pm and 1-4 pm. 1 Ladies Belt Arrow Rock MO 65320 Citizens Committee for Historic Preser­ 1 Gravel Screen Telephone: 660-837-3330 vation 5 Shingles E-mail: [email protected] PO Box 728 1 But. Bucks Sarsaparrilla Websites: www.arrowrock.org; 1 pro Suspenders Las Vegas NM 87701 1 Sett Coffee Cups & Saucers www.mostateparks.com/arrowrock. Telephone: 505-425-8802 1 Pork Barrel htm E-mail: [email protected] 'h # Sulpher • Visitor Center and Museum: call • Holiday Home Tour: Friday, De­ 1 Pair Yarn Socks for winter hours. 16 Bunches Wadding cember 1, 5 pm-8 pm. Tickets $10 • Christmas Folk Singing: Decem­ ($5 children). 24 inches Butts ber 3, 4 pm, Federated Church 1 Scoop Shovel • Christmas Arts & Crafts Fair: Sat­ 1 Comfort • Christmas Candlelight Dinners: urday, December 2. 1 Bottle Rossess Pills December 2, 9, 16, Arrow Rock • Third Annual Winter Fiesta, Elec­ Nutmegs Tavern. For reservations call 660­ tric Light Parade, and Luminaria \', 1 Long Plane 837-3200. Display: Saturday, December 2, at 1 Mop Handle Barton County Museum & Village Luna Community College. 1 pro Pants short PO Box 1091 1 Box Tin • United World College Winter Con- 1 Doz. Strycnine Great Bend KS 67530 cert: Sunday, December 3 1 50 ft. Fuse Telephone: 620-793-5125 Friends of Arrow Rock Gum Camphor Website: www.bartoncountymuseum 309 Main 4 'h yds. bleached muslin .org 1 yd. Allafranco Arrow Rock MO 65320 · Open Wednesday-Friday, 10 am-5 1 Coffee Boiler Telephone: 660-837-3231 1 '12 Window sash pm; Saturday, 1-5 pm. 1 Chamber Pot • Ghosts of Christmas Past in De­ E-mail: [email protected] 1 pro Drab Gauntlets cember; call for information. Websites: www.friendsar.org; www.ar­ 48 ft. Walnut Lumber Bent's Old Fort National Historic Site rowrock.org; www.lyceumetheatre. 101 ft. Pine Lumber org 1 Gold Watch 35110 Highway 194 East

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• Christmas Folk Songs: Sunday, Morton County Hist. Society Museum ing and compilation of Council and December 3. 370 E Highway 56 (PO Box 1248) Association history that is important • Candlelight Dinners at Huston Elkhart KS 67950 to all of us in the SFTA. I know I will Tavern: December 2, 9, 16. Call Telephone: 620-697-2833 refer to it time and again, just as I for reservations. E-mail: [email protected] have with many of the issues in my • Village Holiday Lights: electric Website: www.mtcoks.com/museum candles illuminate the village collection, beginning with volume · Open Tuesday-Friday 1-5 pm; one, of this valuable quarterly. Your throughout December. weekends by appointment. Fort Union National Monument efforts have contributed immeasur­ Otero Museum ably to the vitality and longevity of PO Box 127 706 W. Third St. Watrous NM 87753 La Junta, CO 81050 the Santa Fe National Historic Trail Telephone: 505-425-8025 Telephone: 719-384-7406 and its parent organization. E-mail: [email protected] Cell phone: 719-980-3193 Phyllis S. Morgan Website: www.nps.gov/foun E-mail: [email protected] 6001 Moon St NE #1923 Albuquerque NM 87111 • Open daily, call for hours. · Call for off-season hours. . . It is writers such as you, Phyllis, who • Located 8 miles north of Interstate South Platte Valley Historical Society 25 at the end ofNM Highway 161. PO Box 633 make WT a significant publication. I Gas and Historical Museum Fort Lupton CO 80621 am only the editor who gathers and Stevens County Historical Society Telephone: 303-857-2123 assembles, and enjoys. -Editor PO Box 87 Website: www.spvhs.org Hugoton KS 67951 • Call for information and hours. Telephone: 620-544-8751 Trinidad History Museum E-mail: [email protected] (Colorado Historical Society) • Call for off-season hours and 312 EMain (PO Box 377) HOOF PRINTS tours. Trinidad CO 81082 Herzstein Memorial Museum Telephone: 719-846-7217 -TRAIL 1I081T5- Union County Historical Society E-mail: [email protected] PO Box 75 (2nd & Walnut Sts.) Website: www.coloradohistory.org/ La Junta, CO, has a Pike monu­ Clayton NM 88415 hist_sites/trinidad ment, a ceramic medallion sculpture Telephone: 505-374-2977 • Santa. Fe Trail' Museum open of the explorer, similar to the larger E-mail: [email protected] Monday-Friday, 10 am-2 pm. bronze sculpture located at the His­ • Call for off-season hours. · Baca House & Bloom Mansion toric Arkansas Riverwalk in Pueblo. Historic Adobe Museum open for groups of 12 or more with Both were created by artist Ken Wil­ PO Box 909 (300 EOklahoma) liams. Ulysses, KS 67880 reservations Telephone: 620-356-3009 • Museum Bookstore open Decem­ • • • • E-mail: [email protected] ber 1-23, Monday-Saturday, 10 The historic Trail building near Overbrook, KS, known as Simmons • Call for off-season hours. am-4 pm and by appointment. Jefferson Nat. Expansion Memorial Point Stage Station, continues to de­ 11 N Fourth Street POST OFFICE OAK teriorate. Although it is on the na­ St. Louis, MO 63102 --LETTER5- tional register, owner George Mai­ Telephone: 314-655-1631 chel has no plan to restore the build- E-mail: [email protected] Editor: . ing. If no one makes the effort, this Website: www.nps.gov/jeff Thanks for the great 20th Anni­ important Trail site will soon be • Gateway Arch and Museum of versary issue of Wagon Tracks! I gone. Western Expansion open daily, 9 really appreciated the historical col­ • • • • am-6 pm. umns from Marc Simmons, Ruth Ol­ The New Mexico Santa Fe Trail • Library open 8 am-4:30 pm. son Peters, and Hal Jackson because Scenic Byway Alliance provides in­ • Old Courthouse open daily 8 am- they helped me, a relative newcomer formation and services, including 4:30 pm, to the organization, match a name publications and tours. Membership Koshare Museum with a deed from the past. I think it's is available ($10 for a member; $25 • Otero State Junior College great to remember and give credit to for pioneer; $50 for explorer; $100 for 115 West 18th Street the founders and early laborers of scout); send to NMSFTNSBA, HCR I La Junta, CO 81050 SFTA, many of whom are still active 'J 63 Box 313, Raton NM 87740. • Telephone: 719-385-4411 and contributing today. • • • • E-mail: [email protected] Rod Podszus The Colorado Department of Website: www.koshare.org PO Box 7539 Transportation has agreed to place · Winter hours (through April): Colorado Springs CO 80933 four signs in Las Animas to direct Tuesday, Thursday, Friday­ Editor: visitors to Boggsville Historic Site. Sunday, 12-5 pm, and Monday and •••• Wednesday, 5-9 pm. Congratulations on an outstand­ ing 20th Anniversary issue of Wagon Richard Louden, who recently re­ • Winter Ceremonials: Authentic signed from the SFTA board because American Indian dances. Show Tracks and on your 20th anniversary as editor. Kudos also to Bonita for of health problems, is undergoing tickets include visit to the Mu­ therapy at the Life Care Center in seum. Performances December 27 her work on the issues over the & 31 at 4 pm; December 29-30 at 7 years. I received the issue yesterday Pueblo, CO. John Carson is filling in pm; and January 6-7 at 7 pm. and finished reading it this . for Richard as coordinator for the • Trading Post: online at website. afternoon. It is an amazing gather- 2007 Symposium.

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SANTA FE TRAIL CROSSING OF MISSOURI RIVER AND THE BIG ARROW ROCK DISCOVERED A Santa Fe Trail crossing of the Missouri River and the "big arrow rock" have been discovered by Rich and Deborah Lawson on their prop­ r erty in Saline County, Missouri. The , site was discovered near their bluff­ r top property perched on the south side ofthe Missouri River, just north of historic Arrow Rock, Missouri. Mter a great amount of research the couple discovered that this was the place noted during Lewis and Clark's expedition as "being a good place to cross the river, a good place r' , , ,'•( for a town." This was the place spo­ ", (,.. -- :. .. ., . ' . ~.,. ',-'.- =(~ ,".\ " ," ~. , "i;' 'h'i, ,', f .,t, 0, H .. ~ .' ~"" .J: 'I T't,... .. ;'.' .""...... cr.t,,.,' ,~\, • , " ...." .. 't~" ." corded the footprints of Nathan and .. ,." ,--,' .. . " ,',," '.,.'" ,f; 'II" ...... ' ""~ ~7~ '\~/'tftt Daniel Boone, Kit Carson, William , ,l-iJ;" rt >, , 'b!+\"~\":M'<~3k'!~:f:"'~'?lif;IX~~I~:~~~ ~! Clark, and many other notable " I, "-\~.,,!;V~;fl~!:i; ~~' ... ~ t~1}.~1;7l]*,;_ . statesmen and frontiersmen. IfMis­ i:' -J . IL~:"_..f'~~' ~_". k . _~.\;llb; " Rich & Debbie Lawson in the foreground of the location of Todd's Ferry, the Missouri souri was the crossroads of the na­ River Crossing for the Santa Fe Trail, discovered on their property north of Arrow tion, as numerous authors suggest, Rock, MO, in Saline County. In the 1820s the Missouri River flowed just behind them. then Arrow Rock and its Santa Fe Trail crossing was in fact an epicen­ Rich says he didn't know how souri, led by William Becknell, ter of America's commerce and time-consuming information gather- passed by Cooper's Fort, crossed the growth in the early 1800s. ing would be, yet he found it both fun river, gathered up the wagons on and rewarding. Mter much travel Todd's land, and headed up the gen- Ignoring the river brush, poison and reading hundreds of documents, tIe slope crossing the Todd property ivy, and snakes on the bluff, Rich he found that Judge David S. Todd, heading west to the Grand Pass. said he was in awe of the incredible the first judge of Howard County, Rich says he has now piec~d together tall shade trees and a hilltop that was the first owner of the river prop- that early route from hIS research was begging for a big log cabin. Un­ erty. Todd bought the property from and found that the Boone's Lick aware of the property's rich history, the state when land ownership was Road crossed onto the property on one day he wondered, "just how close authorized in Missouri. Itis interest- the north side of the Missouri where did the river come to our newly ac­ ing to note that David S. Todd's fa- the ferry w~s ~oca~ed. The Sa!1ta Fe quired bluff?" Rich asked a good ther was General Levi Todd, a well- Trail overlaId It. RIch also belIeves a friend, Dr. William E. Foley (educa­ known warrior in many early Ameri- portion overlaid the Osage Trace, an tor, author, and historian), how that can theaters. He also was an uncle of age-old Indian highway. might be determined. Dr. Foley had Mary Todd Lincoln. One might won- They did not let themselves accept just released his book Wilderness der if politics had anything to do their initial suspicions. Their re- Journey, so Rich knew he could point with a Howard countian purchasing search indicated there were many him in the right direction and he did. property in Saline County that just ferries and this particular ferry may Dr. Foley suggested the information happened to be so strategically 10- possibly hold no acclaim whatsoever. they sought was contained in the cated. Rich backed into the information, re- Harlan and Denny book Atlas of • Lewis and Clark in Missouri. Locat­ Devouring more historical docu- searching all the ferries, assuming ments notations about licensing for that any of them may have been the ing a copy, the Lawsons soon discov­ "ferrie~" cros~ing. ered the river certainly did lap right kept surfacing. In one of Santa Fe Trail Ferries ~e~e s~rategIcally loca~ed •• up on their property and likely many early 1800's surveys Rich no- which not backed up in the valleys on the north ticed that one of the license appli- were elImmated fIrst. Then, trackmg and south sides. Rich noted with in­ cants owned land directly across the license renewals, Rich quickly found terest the comments logged by Lewis river from David Todd's ferry land- that most of the ferries were in op- and Clark during the expedition and ing. At this point the thought oc- eration perhaps for only a season curred to him, "my gosh, if this was then never reopened. The ferry at realized no doubt the Indians had been crossing here for hundreds of in fact an important crossing, it may the Todd location appears to have lo~gest ~o years. Suspicions still had not regis­ well have been the crossing for the been in existence .the and tered in regards to the Santa Fe Santa Fe Trail." If this were correct, have been operatmg prIor to DaVId so~e sugge~t Trail. They didn't know nor even sus­ then arguably David Todd's property Todd's ownership, as was the first stop and one ofthe first early as 1811. There. IS a l~ng lIst of pect the historic importance of this ~ncludmg site. gathering points on the Santa Fe license applicant,S, Todd Trail. Travelers left Franklin, Mis- himself. Records mdIcate that, even

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though Todd owned the ferry, most ferry house in Saline County at "the Trail had been replaced by the rail­ of the time it was licensed by other big arrow rock." road. people. In formulating a list of those Rich says this was an unexpected SFTA member Richard Poole for­ license holders it could be that some but pleasant find. This is the "Pierre warded a note from Ned Smith of the Becknells, organizers of the a Fleche" (Rock of Arrows) noted on Raun, Stillwater, OK, who told of an Santa Fe Trail, held license for a pe­ the 1732 map by cartographer Jean 1881 fandango that ended in a gun riod of time. Baptiste Bourguignon d'Anville. On fight, with three persons killed, in­ Crossing the river was treacher­ June 9, 1804, William Clark re­ cluding Raun's great-grandfather ous and no doubt some who tried to ported seeing several small streams Albert "Frank" Smith. Raun noted cash in on the boom in Boone's Lick or creeks joining the river below a that newspaper reports indicated discovered it was not an easy busi­ bluff and the Prairie of Arrows. "alcohol and insults were flowing' ness. The license identified the land­ Small streams are on both the north freely, and the result was simply ing site, yet with the heavy current and south side of the Todd property that some people got killed." The fol­ ofthe Missouri River a ferry operator and the Prairie ofArrows is adjacent lowing article from the Las Vegas no doubt often landed wherever he on the west ofthe Todd property. The Daily Optic, January 17, 1881, was could. It is a fact that both Howard huge rock bluff was no doubt an im­ provided by SFTA member Alma ; and Saline counties couldn't build pressive sight to river travelers. It Gregory. It is not a pleasant story. roads fast enough to handle the river jutted out into the river and would Thanks to Poole, Raun, and Gregory. crossing traffic. David Todd then be­ have been easy to identify as "arrow The article appears as originally gan buying up land on the north side rock" whether traveling up or down published. of the river, including the ferry land­ stream. Rich believes that when the A BATTLE AT A BAILE. ing in Howard County. It is interest­ bluffis cleared ofriver brush one will A Fierce Fight at a Mexican Fan­ ing to note that the Howard County also be able to see that the bluff is dango Ends Three Lives elections were held at the ferry land­ shaped like an arrow head. Time will And Stirs Up Another Bitter Feeling ing on at least one occasion, pointing tell! Between the Races. out the importance of this ferry site. Although some of the face of the Another very unfortunate misun­ None of the river ferry sites should bluff was blown away during a quar- . derstanding between the Ameri­ be confused with the Arrow Rock rying effort in the 1900s, one can still can and Mexican factions oc­ Landing. identify pockets of flint which local curred on Saturday evening .at a The Arrow Rock Landing was not Indians gathered to make arrow baile, or dance, given by the latter the ferry crossing point for the Santa heads. These flint deposits were spo­ named people of Las Mula, this Fe Trail. Runaway ferries may have ken of by several early explorers and county. The place is located on the landed there in desperation, but the travelers. Numerous floods and a Rio de la Paco, a tributary to the Arrow Rock Landing was typically couple hundred years of commerce Rio Pecos and is some six miles for the heavy steamboat traffic going and farming have left little evidence EAST OF OLD PECOS TOWN. up and down the river moving people of the once active riverfront. And distant about three miles from and cargo from port to port. The Ar­ Rich, a limited partner with Ed­ McPherson, a tie camp, at which a row Rock Landing is a significant ward Jones Investments, and Debo­ gang of Walsen & Levy's tie chop­ historical site itself and presently is rah, a teacher at Sterling Elemen­ pers are stationed. All of the above in discovery mode. More information tary School in Warrensburg, MO, in­ named places are in San Miguel can be found about Arrow Rock and tend to apply for certification as county near its western boundary, the Boone's Lick area in Michael Trail property owners and provide and in an air line from Las Vegas Dickey's Arrow Rock: Crossroads of suitable signage at the site. Studying cannot be over thirty or thirty-five the Missouri Frontier. His research the Santa Fe Trail is a regular unit of miles in an almost westerly course. and attention to detail makes a most history and discovery covered by From the circumstances gathered informative account. Deborah in her classroom. by an OPTIC reporter, it appears There has been long-standing con­ that among the Americans who at­ •, Clearing away the brush along fusion and speculation as to which the bluff will again expose a natural tended the fandango were two bluff in the Arrow Rock area was the feature spoken of in many early conspicuous young men named "big arrow rock" and which is the "lit­ documents and more clearly expose "DOC" HODGES AND FRANK SMITH. tle arrow rock." The "arrow rock" "The Crossing" on the Santa Fe As is too frequently the case, a bit­ that Lewis and Clark spoke of, the Trail. ter feeling against the whites was "arrow rock" that is noted in hun­ engendered among the natives, dreds of documents as a place of dy­ COUNCIL TROVE and in the course of a few brief namic commerce, the "arrow rock" -DOCUMENTS- minutes a "free for all" row took that is described by numerous early A TRAGIC FANDANGO STORY place, and the sequel is that oft­ travelers-Bourgmont, Maximilian, Emily Kieta's "New Mexico Fan­ told tale-human blood spilled to and Duke Paul-is in fact the bluffon dango" article in the May 2005 issue satiate the demands of unruly pas­ the Todd property just north a few mentioned very few instances of vio­ sions and life, held so dear to every feet and visible from Todd's ferry lence at those gatherings. Some, one, taken to pay the awful pen­ landing. A court document issued by however, at least in later years, re­ alty. Judge Todd commanded attendance, sulted in fights and killings. The fol­ JUST HOW IT HAPPENED for the purpose of testimony, at his lowing incident occurred after the Is not known to our informant, other

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than that the two young Ameri­ as a vedet, and sat down peaceably cans were murdered in cold blood, under a bush and made my notes, and that they, in self-defense, shot &c. This course I pursued ever after, and killed one Mexican and not without some very considerable wounded three others. The firing degree of trouble to separate myself was quick and fatal. Hodges was from the party. shot twice through the head and Arrived at the fort of St. Paul at once through the chest, and his eleven o'clock, situated on a small body "snatched" by the infuriated river of the same name, the course of populace. The remains were found which is north-east by south-west. outside of the pueblo yesterday, At the time we were there the river BURNED ALMOST TO A CRISP was not wider than a mill stream, by a fire set by his enemies. Poor but sometimes it is three hundred Smith was seen to fall in the melee, yards wide and impassable. Distance and when his friends rallied they 30 miles. could find nothing of him. Fearful 30th April, Thursday.-Marched at that he had been killed outright, six o'clock, and at eleven arrived at "· and his body hidden away, a dili­ the river Conchos 24 miles-beautiful gent search was kept up all day green trees on its banks. I was taken yesterday, but to no avail. Early this very sick at half past ten o'clock. .,., morning a few unfaltering friends PIKE'S JOURNAL, PART XV Arrived at night at a small station proceeded with the hunt and were This reprint of Pike's journal of the on the river Conchos, fifteen leagues successful in finding the remains in up said river. Distance 43 miles. a pinon forest. expedition of 1806-1807 continues, starting with the entry for April 28, 1st May, Friday.-Marched up the THE HARROWING SPECTACLE 1807, when they left Chihuahua. Conchos to its confluence with the That met their startled gaze was in­ Pike's Journal river Florada [Rio Florido], 15 deed a sad one. There upon the leagues from where we left the white snow lay what was left of 28th April, Tuesday.-In the morning former river, and took up the latter, their companion of two days Malgares waited on us, and informed which bears from the Conchos S. 80° previous-stiff in the cold embrace us he was to accompany us some dis­ and 50° E. On its banks, are some of the monster, Death. The corpse tance on the route. Mter bidding very flourishing settlements, and was perforated with bullets and the adieu to all our friends, marched at a they are well timbered. A poor skull crushed in by heavy stones. quarter past three o'clock, and en­ miserable village [Santa Rosalia] at SUCH BEASTLY CRUELTY camped at nine o'clock at night at a the confluence. Came ten miles up Seems almost incredible, but the spring-stony-passed near Chi­ the Florada to dinner, and at night facts are more revolting than pen huahua a small ridge of mountains, stopt at a private house. This can portray. The indignation of the and there encamped in a hollow. property or plantation was valued hardy tie choppers of Glorieta This day as we were riding along, formerly at 300,000 dollars, mountain is running at fever heat Malgares rode up to me and in­ extending on the Florada from the and war may result. The causes formed me that the general had small place we slept at on the last of leading to the assassination of the given orders that I should not be per­ April, 30 leagues up said river. two American victims of the fracas mitted to make any astronomical ob­ Distance 45 miles. could never have justified their hor­ servations. To this I replied, that he Finding that a new species of dis­ rible fate, let it have been as ag­ well knew I never had attempted cipline had taken place, and that the gravating as possibility could have making any since I was conducted suspicions of my friend Malgares allowed. into the Spanish domains. were much more acute than ever, I 29th April, Wednesday.-Arrived at a conceived it necessary to take some • PIKE'S COLUMN settlement at eight o'clock-plenty of steps to secure the notes I had taken, [This special column will continue as milk, &c. When about to make my which were clandestinely acquired. journal, Malgares changed color, and a series in Wagon Tracks until the In the night I arose, and after mak­ • close of the Pike Southwest Expedi­ informed me it was his orders I ing my men charge all their pieces tion Bicentennial activities in 2007. should not take notes, but added, you well, I took my small books and It features documents, articles, bibli­ have a good memory, and when you rolled them up in small rolls, and ography, and notes which tell the get to Cogquilla you can bring it all tore a fine shirt to pieces, and wrapt story ofPike, his expeditions, and re­ up. At first I felt considerably indig­ it round the papers and put them lated topics. Submissi9ns are solic­ nant, and was on the point of refus­ down the barrels of the guns, until ited for this column. ing to comply; but thinking for a mo­ we just left room for the tompoins, ment of the many politenesses I had which were then carefully put in; the There is one item for this issue, the received from his hands, induced me fifteenth installment of Pike's jour­ remainder we secured about our bod­ merely to bow assent with a smile, ies under our shirts. This occupied nal. Keep informed with the Pike Bi­ and we proceeded on our route, but centennial plans at .] a pretext to halt-established my boy

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plclOns. on 9 miles to another spring at the plied, that they excited my laughter, 2d May, Saturday.-Marched early, foot of a mountain-good pasturage as there were disaffected persons and in four and a quarter hours ar­ round it-mountains on each side all sufficient to serve as guides should rived at Guaxequillo [Guajoquilla, day. Distance 28 miles. an army ever come into the country. present Jimenez]; situated on the 8th May, Friday.-Marched at five Came on three miles further, river Florada, where we were to ex­ miles due west, through a gap in the where were fig-trees and a fruit change our friend Malgares for cap­ mountain, then turned S. 20° E. and called by the French La Grain, situ­ tain Barela [Captain Mariano more south to a river about twenty ated on a little stream which flowed Varela], who was a Mexican by birth, feet wide-high steep banks; now dry through the gardens, and formed a born near the capital, and entered as except in holes, but sometimes full terrestrial paradise. Here we re­ a cadet at Guaxequillo near twenty and impassible. Halted at seven mained all day sleeping in the shade years past, and by his extraordinary o'clock and sent on the loaded mules. of the fig-trees, and at night contin­ merits (being a Creolian) had been Marched at five o'clock, came 10 ued our residence in the garden. We promoted to captain, which was even miles and encamped without water. obliged the inhabitants with a ball by himselfconsidered as his ultimate Distance 18 miles. [fifth fandango], who expressed' promotion. He was a gentleman in 9th May, Saturday.-Marched be­ great anxiety for a relief from their his manners-generous and frank; tween four and five o'clock and ar­ present distressed state and a and I believe a good soldier. rived at Pelia'at eight. This is only a change of government. 3d May, Sunday.-At Guaxequillo station for a few soldiers, but is sur­ (continued next issue) the captain gave up his command to rounded by mines. At this place are CAMP TALES Malgares. At night the officers gave two large warm springs, strongly im­ a ball, at which appeared at least pregnated with sulphur, and this is -CHAPTER REPORTS­ sixty women, ten or a dozen of whom the water obliged to be used by the Cimarron Cutoff were very handsome. [This was party who are stationed here. Here President D. Ray Blakeley Pike's fourth fandango.] we remained all day. Captain Barelo PO Box 222 4th May, Monday.-Don Hymen Gu­ had two beeves killed for his and my Clayton NM 88415 (505) 374-2555 100 [Guleo] arrived from Chihuahua, men and charged nothing to either. accompanied by a citizen and the Here he received orders from the The chapter held a short business friar, who had been arrested by order general to lead us through the wil­ meeting following the Santa Fe Trail ofthe commandant general, and was derness to Montelovez, in order that Tour hosted by the Cimarron Heri­ on his way to Mexico for trial. we should not approximate to the tage Center on October 7. A special program was presented by Larry 5th May, Tuesday.-The party mar­ frontiers of Mexico, which we should Melton, "The Eastern Part of the ched with all the spare horses and have done by the usual route of Pat­ Santa Fe Trail-Missouri." baggage. tos, Paras, &c. Texas Panhcmdle 6th May, Wednesday.-Marched at 10th May, Sunday.-Marched past five o'clock; ascended the river four one copper mine now diligently Inactive. miles, when we left it to our right worked. At this place the proprietor Wagon Bed Spring had 100,000 sheep, cattle, horses, and took off south 60°, east eight President Edward Dowell miles. [Pike left El Camino Real.] &c. Arrived at the Cadena, a house built and occupied by a priest. It is 602 E Wheat Ave Our friend Malgares accompanied us Ulysses KS 67880 a few miles, to whom we bad[e] an situated on a small stream at the (620) 356-4525 eternal adieu, if war does not bring pass of the mountains called by the No report. Spaniards the Door of the Prison, us 'together in the field of battle Heart of the Flint Hills opposed as the most deadly enemies, from its being surrounded by moun­ tains. The proprietor was at Sum­ President Carol L. Retzer when our' hearts acknowledge the 4215 E245th St greatest friendship. Halted at ten braretto, distant six days march. This hacienda was obliged to furnish Lyndon KS 66451 • o'clock, and marched again at four. (785) 828-3739 No water on the road; detached a accommodations to all travellers. Spanish soldier in search of some, Marched at five o'clock and passed No report. who did not join us until 12 o'clock at the chain of mountains due east 12 End of the Trail miles, and encamped without water. night. Encamped in the open prairie; La Alcaldesa Joy Poole no wood or water except what the Distance 31 miles. 125 W Lupita Rd soldier brought us in gourds. The 11th May, Monday.-Marched and Santa Fe NM 87505 mules came up at eleven o'clock at arrived at Maupemie at eight o'clock, (505) 820-7828 night. Distance 30 miles. a village situated at the foot ofmoun­ 7th May, Thursday.-Marched very tains of minerals, where they worked The chapter joined the Santa Fe early, wind fresh from the south. The eight or nine mines. The mass of the Westerners for a field trip to Forked punctuality of captain Barela as to people were naked and starved Lightning Ranch within Pecos Na­ hours was remarkable. Arrived at wretches. The proprietor of the tional Historic Park on September halfpast nine o'clock at a spring, the mines gave us an elegant repast. 23. On October 14 the chapter spon­ first' water from Guaxequillo. The Here the orders of Salcedo were ex­ sored a field trip to El Camino Real mules did not unload, but continued plained to me by the captain. I re- Visitor Center and Fort Craig Na-

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tional Historic Site, both south of So­ Preliminary plans were made for ings on the Santa Fe Trail in Kan­ corro. The November 18 meeting was day trips to acquaint new members sas," will be on display at the Buck· at the El Dorado Community Room, with the 8FT in the chapter's area. board in Larned. with program by Joy Poole on The chapter voted to share the ex­ The chapter voted to discontinue recently-discovered memoirs and pense of placing markers at the Ci­ the biennial seminar previously con­ diaries of the Trail. marron Crossing with the Dodge ducted in conjunction with the Fort Corazon de los Caminos City/ Fort Dodge/Cimarron Chapter. Larned Old Guard annual meeting. President Bill Soderman Larry Mix presented a history of the The winter meeting is scheduled 1003 Fifth St chapter's marking program. for January 14, 2007, at Kinsley. A Las Vegas NM 87701 Following the business session a covered-dish dinner will be served, (505) 425-9435 well-received program on 19th-cen­ officers elected, and the Faye Ander­ tury photography was presented by son Award will be presented. Another year on the Trail comes to George Elmore, Ranger at Fort -,-··-=-·---w--"~- .. ------·---~. " _, '" 'fE, ',' - ' , 'y 1( an end. We have had lots of field Larned National Historic Site. ; ,;t ~ trips this year, some to familiar !r-- I. . The chapter met in conjunction " ~.~..~.~ t~4t)m)~Mkvt¥"_·· places and some to places not previ­ • -;$E)f;lidH -. ',f""'" with the Dodge City/Fort Dodge/Ci­ < . '" - .. . .. 0usly or recently visited. Plans are .....'*~;,...,.'"""-''''''''',-,' "-.""..f ~ ..~~,OJ> -..-,....- _-t~ • marron Chapter on November 12 at ...M ..~,.,<_ It being made for next year and we ..".,.,... "'_fl_ ,"_...,"-~"'_ ••. ' ...... - ... ~"'.,-~ the Dodge City Public Library. Re­ -_~ _ _"""' , I hope to have our Events Calendar ports were given on the dedication of posted on our chapter's link on the , ! Zebulon Pike Plaza, the day trips be­ \, .' new SFTA web site before the first ing conducted on the Santa Fe Trail meeting in March. in the chapter's area, and the Santa For information in the interim, Fe Trail Poster Contest. President please contact President Bill Soder­ Clapsaddle reported on his visits to man, Vice-President Faye Gaines at the St. Nicholas Elementary School 505-485-2473, or Henri Vander and the Kinsley/Offerle Elementary Kolk, program chairman, 505-660­ School where he introduced the fifth­ 1781. grade students to the poster contest Our first meeting next year will and presented a program on the be March 17, 1 p.m., downstairs at Trail. A report was also given about Charlie's Spic & Span Bakery in Las the recent presentation of Robert's Vegas. Harry Myers, our new Trunk the Dodge City schools. The secretary and newsletter person, will Trunk is scheduled to be presented speak about the Long Walk. in the St. Nicholas, Kinsley/Offerle, David Clapsaddle & Bill Bunyan install­ ing survey camp interpretive sign. Wet/Dry Routes and Larned schools in the near fu­ ture. President David Clapsaddle Dodge City/Fort Dodge/Cimarron 215 Mann A report was also given on the President Bill Bunyan Larned KS 67550 marking project. Small plaques in 2207 McCoy (620) 285-3295 memory of deceased members were Dodge City KS 67801 recently installed on existing mark- . (620) 227-8203 Sixty members and guests met for ers to honor Cecil Johnson, Ron Nel­ The summer meeting was a field the summer meeting of the chapter son, Dr. Richard Dryden, and How­ trip to Elkhart, Middle Springs, on August 20 at the Clapsaddle ard Losey. In the future the same Point of Rocks, and Morton County residence in Larned for an old plaque will honor Louis Van Meter Historical Society Museum. fashioned ice cream social. and Charles and Margaret Mix. The Working jointly with the Wet/Dry Announcements were made with limestone markers and the interpre­ Routes Chapter, our chapter helped regard to progress on the Zebulon tive sign for the Cimarron Crossing place interpretive signs at the Point • Pike Plaza, the Larned Chamber of have been prepared and are ready of Rocks site west of Dodge City, Commerce Coffee Hour to be held at for installation. Lower Crossing, two Sibley survey the Plaza on August 24, and the Faye sites, and Forts Mann andAtkinson. In other business, information re­ • Anderson Award. Reports were garding trips in the Larned area to The chapter met jointly with the made with regard to the placement visit Henry Booth locations and WetJDry Routes Chapter on Novem­ of interpretive markers at Hogan's Santa Fe Trail sites to be conducted ber 12 in Dodge City. New officers Ruts and the Pawnee Fork Crossing in the spring of 2007 was discussed. were elected for the coming year. The on the Fort Hays-Fort Dodge Road. Also, in conjunction with Santa Fe program was provided by Larry Cor­ Also discussed were registrations for Trail Days, an interpretive program pus on "Diseases at Fort Larned, the Santa Fe Trail Rendezvous, the by Larned's First Ladies will be pre­ 1860-1861." poster contest, and a committee to sented at the Little Red House on Missouri River Outfitters decorate for the brunch to be served May 1, 2007. President Roger Slusher at the dedication of the Zebulon Pike President Clapsaddle announced Plaza on October 29. Anita Graves 1421 South St that six images from the recent ex­ Lexington MO 64067 was appointed to serve as chair of hibit during the Rendezvous, "Cross- (660) 259-2900 the decoration committee.

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The next chapter meeting is De­ cember 3 with a potluck lunch at the home of Roger and Sandy Slusher in Lexington, MO. Contact the Slush­ ers for details. Quivira President Janel Cook 815 S St John Lyons KS 67554 (620) 257-2918 On June 10, 2006, the chapter met at the Barton County Historical So­ ciety Museum in Great Bend. Bob Button presented information on the

"• . archaeology of Fort Zarah. Mter­ ward the group spent a little time Last summer the oxen from Bent's Old Fort made a trip on the Trail, accompanied touring the museum before Bob took by a number of hikers {photo by Cynthia Holling-Morris of Gallery West Photogra­ the group out to the original sites of phy; Colorado Springs}. the two forts. County. The meeting was co-hosted the land where Lost Spring stage station was located. Discussion cen- On July 8, 2006, students from the by the Cottonwood Chapter and was o Kansas School for the Blind visited held at the Galva Community Room. tered on possible development and the Little Arkansas Crossing com­ The meeting was made possible by changes at the site. plex. Britt and Linda Colle, Wilmer the work ofLinda Andersen, director On August 14 a joint chapter and Hazel Ekholm, Bernice Beng­ of the Galva Museum, and the mem­ meeting was held in Galva with the ston, and John Conoboy from the Na­ bers of the Galva Historical Society. Quivira Chapter. A large group en­ tional Park Service were on hand to We had at least 90 people in atten­ joyed the dinner and program by provide the tour. Wilmer Ekholm dance to hear the Fletchers' presen­ Jack Fletcher about the Cherokee brought out his entire collection of tation. Trail and where it joined the Santa artifacts for the students to see and On August 27 Britt and Linda Fe Trail south of Galva. Many people touch. The students were especially Colle accompanied John Conoboy, later went to the Empire marker two excited to visit the Marker Cotton­ Andrea Sharon, Craig Crease, Ross miles south of Galva and supposed wood where they joined hands to Marshall, and Clive Siegle through location of the Running Turkey form a ring around the tree to get the Quivira Chapter region on their Ranche. and idea of its size. They also threw trip to inventory all the Trail sites. A board meeting on August 24 at stones into the Little Arkansas River The chapter manned a booth at McPherson made plans for a field and ravine to listen to the sound. the Family History Fair in Salina on trip to Diamond Springs with the This gave them an idea of how deep September 16. The event was spon­ Heart of the Flint Hills Chapter. The the ravine was. The students visited sored by the Mormon Church to pro­ tour, led by Don Cress of Council the Swanson Swales. For the more mote researching our ancestors. The Grove on September 23, visited Dia­ visually impaired students, a rope theme was "Trails of Our Ancestors," mond Springs and Six Mile Stage was stretched across the swales on so the Santa Fe Trail tied right in. Station. Mter the tour they had din­ the ground. The students were able This was a great opportunity to let ner at the Hays House in Council to follow the rope and walk out some new faces know about the Grove. among the swales. The rope also al­ SFTA and the Quivira Chapter. The The board met October 12 in New­ lowed them to feel how deep the NPS brochure with the nice map of ton to plan additional programs. On • swales really were. The students left the Trail was a great conversation November 9 the chapter met in to continue their trip west where piece and most, ofthe people who vis- Galva. Mter dinner and a short busi­ they would encounter several other ited the booth took the opportunity ness meeting (including election of trails on their way to a convention in to take one. We were also promoting officers for another year), the pro­ Salt Lake City. The Quivira Chapter the Rendezvous in Larned and had gram was presented by Leo E. Oliva, is grateful to the Kansas School for several inquiries about the events. "The Santa Fe Trail and Kansas Ter­ the Blind for allowing their studerits ritory." to experience the Santa Fe Trail. Cottonwood Crossing They were a great group of kids and President Steve Schmidt Bent's Fort sponsors and we enjoyed meeting 1120 Cobblestone Ct President Charlie Hutton them. McPherson KS 67460 18300 Rd EE.5 {620} 245-0715 On August 14 the chapter wel­ Rocky Ford CO 81067 The chapter board met June 22 in (719) 254-7266 comed back Jack and Patricia McPherson to plan future meetings. _ Recent activities include a tour of Fletcher, who discussed the intersec­ On July 24 a special board meeting the Manifer Ranch, educational tion of the Cherokee Trail and the was held in Lost Springs with mem­ meeting at the Otero Museum, and Santa Fe Trail in McPherson bers of the Sheilds family, owners of the dedication of the monument at

November 2006 Wagon Tracks 27

Published by UNM Digital Repository, 2007 27 Wagon Tracks, Vol. 21 [2007], Iss. 1, Art. 1

Pike's First View Site. TRAIL CALENDAR I FROM THE EDITOR The chapter continues with plan­ I"'----- We enjoyed seeing many Trail ning for the 2007 Symposium in Everyone is invited to send no­ friends at Rendezvous. The Pike Trinidad, September 27-30, 2007 tices for this section; provide loca­ Plaza in Larned is a great addition to (see article on page 4 of this issue). tion' date, time, and activity. This is places to stop and visit along the The chapter is leading opposition to a quarterly. The next issue should Trail. The Wet/Dry Routes Chapter the army's proposed takeover of ad­ appear in February, so send informa­ gets things done. Thanks also to the ditional land for the Pinon Canyon tion for March and later to arrive by Santa Fe Trail Center and Fort Maneuver Site (see insert in this is­ January 20, 2007. Other events are Larned National Historic Site for an sue). listed in articles and chapter reports. outstanding Rendezvous. Thank you. It has been an honor for me to NEW SFTA MEMBERS I Dec. 1-2,2006: Holiday Celebration present eight Pike programs in three I---- at Bent's Old Fort, 719-383-5010. This list includes new member­ months. There are more to come. The Dec. 3, 2006: Missouri River Outfit­ Pike Bicentennial has brought atten­ ships received since the last ,issue. ters Chapter meeting at Slusher Those received after this printing tion to a great American explorer home in Lexington, MO. whose accomplishments have long will appear in the next issue. Ifthere • is an error in this information, Dec. 12, 2006: Annual Christmas been overshadowed by Lewis and please send corrections to the editor. Party at Cimarron Heritage Center Clark. Just like the Santa Fe Trail, We thank you for your support. Museum in Boise City, OK, 7:00 pm. Zebulon Pike lives on! Membership rosters are available for Jan. 14, 2007: Wet/Dry Routes Please visit the new SFTA web $5 postpaid from Last Chance Store. Chapter meeting, Kinsley, KS. site for Trail history, chapter information, Last BUSINESS MEMBERSHIPS Mar. 1-12, 2007: Tour of Camino Chance Store, and taking care of Tarabino Inn B&B, 310 E 2nd St, Real in Mexico, led by Hal Jackson; Trinidad CO 81082 details at . Chapter reports for Wagon Tracks Charles Loomis, 1148 E Queens Mar. 17,2007: SFTA Board meet­ should be sent via e-mail or as an at­ Place, Kansas City MO 64131 ing, La Junta, CO. tachment directly to the editor by the deadline (20th of the month prior to Nancy & Howard Ziegenhorn, 5400 Mar. 17, 2007: Corazon Chapter the month of issue). These will be ed­ Windsor Rd, Fairway KS 66205 meeting, Las Vegas, NM. INDIVIDUAL MEMBERSHIPS ited for style and space available. It Mike Dickey, PO Box 44, Arrow Rock Sept. 27-30, 2007: SFTA sympo­ is not your editor's job to go through MO 65320 sium, Trinidad, CO. chapter newsletters to see if some­ Harv Hisgen, 10060 Blue Sky Tr, thing could be in WT. Conifer CO 80433 LAST CHANCE STORE ONLINE Wes Jackson, 2440 E Water Well Rd, Harv Hisgen from the American THE SFTA Last Chance Store is Discovery Trail attended Rendez­ Salina KS 67401 available online at . The list of items is ex­ formation about the ADT (which in­ Ron Silverthorn, 37600 S Camino panding. Printed lists of offerings cludes a major portion of the Santa Blanco, Wickenburg AZ 85390 are no longer included in Wagon Fe Trail in Missouri, Kansas, and Paula Steves, PO Box 2064, Angel Tracks. A printed list will be sent to Colorado) in Wagon Tracks. Fire NM 87710 anyone on request: LCS, Box 1, Ernest Witucke, 9863 W Hawaii Dr, Woodston KS 67675, , or 888-321-7341. Happy Trails! -Leo E. Oliva

Santa Fe Trail Association • • •• \. r- r-... ,., J NONPROFIT ORGANIZAnON PO Box 31 ~rT!v U.S. POSTAGE • Woodston, KS 67675 v PAID PERMITNa. 2 ' Change Service Requested WOODSTON KS 67675 ·

28 Wagon Tracks November 2006

https://digitalrepository.unm.edu/wagon_tracks/vol21/iss1/1 28