Montréal & Québec City 4

Plan Your Trip 1 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Montréal & Québec City

“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Regis St Louis, Gregor Clark Contents

PlanPlan Your Your Trip Trip page 1 4

Welcome to Montréal & Top Itineraries ��16 Eating ��28 Québec City �� 4 If You Like �� 18 Drinking & Nightlife ��32 Montréal’s Top 10 �� 6 Month by Month ��21 Entertainment ��36 What’s New �� 13 With Kids ��24 Shopping �� 40 Need to Know ��14 Visiting Québec City ��25

Explore Montréal & Québec City 42

Neighborhoods at a Quartier Latin & Day Trips from Glance ��44 the Village ��89 Montréal ��143 Old Montréal ��46 Plateau Mont-Royal ��101 Sleeping ��154 Parc Jean-Drapeau ��66 Little Italy, Mile End & Québec City �� 167 Outremont ��116 Downtown ��71 Southwest & Outer Montréal �� 129

Understand Montréal & Québec City 211

Montréal Today �� 212 People & Culture �� 221 Architecture ��229 History �� 214 Music & the Arts ��224 Québec City History & Culture ��233

Survival Guide 237

Transportation ��238 Language ��248 Directory A–Z ��243 Index ��255

Montréal Maps 266 WAYNE BARRETT & ANNE MACKAY / GETTY IMAGES © MARIANNA ARMATA / GETTY IMAGES © au pe 6 rc ra p6 Pa n e an-D llag Je 9 Vi p8 e artier Lati th al . & oy Qu -R ateau p101 & Pl Mont . 6 t End p4 le Parc Jean- Parc .

Grey squirrel squirrel Grey d Montréal Québec City p167

Escape the city Ol p116 tremon Town streets Town (above) Montréal Drapeau, p66 bustleat this leafy oasis (right) Often seen in eastern Canada (left) Stroll along historic Old

HENRY GEORGI / GETTY IMAGES © Ou Little Italy, Mi wn 1 p7 Downto ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 16

Top Itineraries

Day One Day Two

Old Montréal (p46) Downtown (p71) M Take the subway to Place-d’Armes M Start your tour of downtown Mon- and make a beeline for the stunning tréal at Musée des Beaux-Arts de Basilique Notre-Dame. Explore the cob- Montréal for its excellent collection of Old blestoned streets of the old town, winding Masters and contemporary art. Architec- your way to the sailors’ church, Chapelle ture aficionados will dig the contemporary Notre-Dame-de-Bonsecours. Stroll up Desmarais pavilion as well as the Claire Place Jacques-Cartier with its many busk- & Marc Bourgie Pavilion in an 1890s ers and artists, into the Château Ramezay church. Next stroll down Rue Sherbrooke museum. Ouest, home to tiny shops and heritage mansions, toward McGill University. Lunch Grab a tasty baguette sandwich at Titanic (p58). Lunch Vegetarian-friendly Lola Rosa (p79) has great food and ambience. Old Montréal (p46) Deepen your understanding of the Canal de Lachine (p132) R city’s history at the excellent Musée Hop on the metro to Lionel-Groulx d’Archéologie et d’histoire Pointe-à- R and walk down to Marché Atwater Callière before crossing Pl d’Youville to for a look at the farmers’ produce, croissants Fonderie Darling for its innovative and cheese. If you have the energy, rent a contemporary-art installations. Bixi bike from a nearby station and pedal the Canal de Lachine. If not, consider a Dinner Garde-Manger (p59) for a fun cruise on the canal. crowd, and tasty cocktails and dishes. Dinner For incredible Québecois fare, Old Montréal (p46) try Joe Beef (p81) if you can get in. If you’re not dining in style, grab a N quick pizza at Bevo before catching Downtown (p71) a show at Cirque du Soleil in the Old Port. Upstairs has nightly jazz perfor- You might also consider watching the sky N mances, or better yet the jazz festival turn various colors at sunset while down- will be rocking the blocks around Place des ing an old-fashioned on the rooftop patio at Arts if your timing is right. Otherwise grab Terrasse Nelligan. Party the night away a postdinner glass at the Dominion Square at scenester magnet Velvet or Philémon, Tavern or hear some beats at underground which will rock you until 3am. Bleury Bar à Vinyle. 17 PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

Day Three Day Four Top I ti

Little Italy, Mile End & Parc Jean-Drapeau (p66) n Outremont (p116) M A river runs through it, dividing eraries M Make for Little Italy to explore the Parc Jean-Drapeau into two isles. mouthwatering Marché Jean- Begin at Île Ste-Hélène with a tour of re- Talon. Stroll down to the local church, markable buildings from yesteryear. Learn the Église Madonna della Difesa, and about the environment and our impact on be sure to spot Mussolini on the ceiling. it at the Biosphère, housed in Buckmin- Browse the old-world shops along Blvd ster Fuller’s geodesic dome built for Expo St-Laurent before hopping a bus (or Bixi) ’67. Not far away, the Musée Stewart is to Mile End. the site of an authentic British garrison.

Lunch Enjoy market-fresh fare at the Lunch Snacks along the forested paths. charming little Arts Cafe (p118).

Little Italy, Mile End & Parc Jean-Drapeau (p66) Outremont (p116) Wander the island’s walking paths, Ramble along St-Viateur and R taking in the outdoor sculptures R Bernard, visiting Drawn & before kicking up your heels at Piknic Quarterly for its whimsical book selec- Électronik, a summertime electronica tions, hipster curiosities at Monastiraki dance fest. If it’s not on, try for some thrills and artfully recycled objects at Galerie on the world’s tallest wooden roller coaster CO. Before dinner, grab a taxi to Parc du at La Ronde. You can grab panoramic but

Dinner Inventive Vietnamese fusion Dinner High-end fare at a new restau- and drinks at Hà (p110). rant in the Casino de Montréal (p69).

Mont-Royal for a panoramic view of the decidedly slower views of the city from city from Kondiaronk lookout. 45m up on the Ferris wheel.

Plateau Mont-Royal (p101) Parc Jean-Drapeau (p66) Head down to Casa del Popolo N The island is a perfect spot to N and see what the hipster kids are watch the sky explode with fire- cheering for on stage. Afterward, take a works during L’International des Feux late-night bar crawl down Blvd St-Laurent. Loto Québec. If not, the Casino de Stop in Big in Japan for elegance and Montréal has everything you need for a high-end libations, Majestique for oysters good time; just bring luck. Or take a long walk or quick taxi ride to Habitat ’67, ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 266

Montréal Maps

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkeling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing BART station Reef Other Activity Border crossing Boston T station Areas Sleeping Bus Airport/Runway Sleeping Cable car/Funicular Camping Cycling Beach/Desert Ferry Cemetery (Christian) Eating Metro/Muni station Eating Monorail Cemetery (Other) Parking Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Petrol station Drinking & Nightlife Subway/SkyTrain station Mudflat Cafe Taxi Park/Forest Train station/Railway Entertainment Tram Sight (Building) Entertainment Underground station Sportsground Other Transport Shopping Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book Missing image:../Images/39-index-montreal-mqc4.eps.eps.

1 1 1

1 MAP INDEX 1 1

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AOur beat-up Story old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Our Writers Regis St Louis Coordinating Author A long-time admirer of the free-spirited ethos that rules Québec, Regis has fallen hard for Montréal. He never tires of exploring the city’s tree-lined neighborhoods, munching his way through its markets and cycling its many bike lanes. On this recent trip, he experienced Montréal’s coldest February in history (what’s -20C among friends?), joined the all-night revelry of Nuit Blanche and admired enchanting wintry landscapes in city parks. Regis has contributed to dozens of Lonely Planet titles, including a previous edition of Montréal & Québec City. When not exploring the back lanes of Québec, he resides in Brooklyn, New York.

Gregor Clark Québec City, Day Trips from Montréal A lifelong Francophile and a resident of neighboring Vermont, Gregor has long been smitten with Québec and regu- larly hops across the border for doses of French-Canadian culture. Québec City remains one of his favorite North American cities (alongside San Francisco). He especially enjoyed sharing Winter Carnival with family while researching this edition. Gregor has written three dozen Lonely Planet guides since 2000, mostly focused on Europe and Latin America. He also wrote the Understand and Survival Guide sections of this guide. Read more about Gregor at: auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/gregorclark

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 4th edition – December 2015 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 74321 550 0 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2015 Photographs © as indicated 2015 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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