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Montréal & Québec City 4 Plan Your Trip 1 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Montréal & Québec City “All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Regis St Louis, Gregor Clark Contents PlanPlan Your Your Trip Trip page 1 4 Welcome to Montréal & Top Itineraries ����������������16 Eating ���������������������������28 Québec City ��������������������� 4 If You Like ����������������������� 18 Drinking & Nightlife ���32 Montréal’s Top 10 ������������ 6 Month by Month �������������21 Entertainment �������������36 What’s New �������������������� 13 With Kids ������������������������24 Shopping ��������������������� 40 Need to Know �����������������14 Visiting Québec City �����25 Explore Montréal & Québec City 42 Neighborhoods at a Quartier Latin & Day Trips from Glance ����������������������������44 the Village ����������������������89 Montréal���������������������143 Old Montréal ������������������46 Plateau Mont-Royal ������101 Sleeping ���������������������154 Parc Jean-Drapeau �������66 Little Italy, Mile End & Québec City ��������������� 167 Outremont ��������������������116 Downtown �����������������������71 Southwest & Outer Montréal ������������ 129 Understand Montréal & Québec City 211 Montréal Today ����������� 212 People & Culture ��������� 221 Architecture �����������������229 History �������������������������� 214 Music & the Arts ����������224 Québec City History & Culture ��������������������������233 Survival Guide 237 Transportation ������������238 Language ���������������������248 Directory A–Z ��������������243 Index �����������������������������255 Montréal Maps 266 HENRY GEORGI / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / GEORGI HENRY © IMAGES GETTY / MACKAY ANNE & BARRETT WAYNE (left) Québec City p167 Stroll along historic Old © IMAGES GETTY / ARMATA MARIANNA Town streets� (above) Parc Jean- Drapeau, Montréal p66 Escape the city bustle at this leafy oasis� (right) Grey squirrel Often seen in eastern Canada� Little Italy, Mile End & Outremont p116 Plateau Mont-Royal p101 Quartier Latin & the Village Downtown p89 p71 Old Montréal p46 Parc Jean-Drapeau p66 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 16 Top Itineraries Day One Day Two Old Montréal (p46) Downtown (p71) Take the subway to Place-d’Armes Start your tour of downtown Mon- M and make a beeline for the stunning M tréal at Musée des Beaux-Arts de Basilique Notre-Dame. Explore the cob- Montréal for its excellent collection of Old blestoned streets of the old town, winding Masters and contemporary art. Architec- your way to the sailors’ church, Chapelle ture aficionados will dig the contemporary Notre-Dame-de-Bonsecours. Stroll up Desmarais pavilion as well as the Claire Place Jacques-Cartier with its many busk- & Marc Bourgie Pavilion in an 1890s ers and artists, into the Château Ramezay church. Next stroll down Rue Sherbrooke museum. Ouest, home to tiny shops and heritage mansions, toward McGill University. Lunch Grab a tasty baguette sandwich at Titanic (p58). Lunch Vegetarian-friendly Lola Rosa (p79) has great food and ambience. Old Montréal (p46) R Deepen your understanding of the Canal de Lachine (p132) city’s history at the excellent Musée R Hop on the metro to Lionel-Groulx d’Archéologie et d’histoire Pointe-à- and walk down to Marché Atwater Callière before crossing Pl d’Youville to for a look at the farmers’ produce, croissants Fonderie Darling for its innovative and cheese. If you have the energy, rent a contemporary-art installations. Bixi bike from a nearby station and pedal the Canal de Lachine. If not, consider a Dinner Garde-Manger (p59) for a fun cruise on the canal. crowd, and tasty cocktails and dishes. Dinner For incredible Québecois fare, Old Montréal (p46) try Joe Beef (p81) if you can get in. If you’re not dining in style, grab a N quick pizza at Bevo before catching Downtown (p71) a show at Cirque du Soleil in the Old Port. N Upstairs has nightly jazz perfor- You might also consider watching the sky mances, or better yet the jazz festival turn various colors at sunset while down- will be rocking the blocks around Place des ing an old-fashioned on the rooftop patio at Arts if your timing is right. Otherwise grab Terrasse Nelligan. Party the night away a postdinner glass at the Dominion Square at scenester magnet Velvet or Philémon, Tavern or hear some beats at underground which will rock you until 3am. Bleury Bar à Vinyle. 17 PLAN YOUR TRIP Day Three Day Four I TOP ti Little Italy, Mile End & Parc Jean-Drapeau (p66) N Outremont (p116) M A river runs through it, dividing eraries M Make for Little Italy to explore the Parc Jean-Drapeau into two isles. mouthwatering Begin at Île Ste-Hélène with a tour of re- Marché Jean- Talon. Stroll down to the local church, markable buildings from yesteryear. Learn the Église Madonna della Difesa, and about the environment and our impact on be sure to spot Mussolini on the ceiling. it at the Biosphère, housed in Buckmin- Browse the old-world shops along Blvd ster Fuller’s geodesic dome built for Expo St-Laurent before hopping a bus (or Bixi) ’67. Not far away, the Musée Stewart is to Mile End. the site of an authentic British garrison. Lunch Enjoy market-fresh fare at the Lunch Snacks along the forested paths. charming little Arts Cafe (p118). Little Italy, Mile End & Parc Jean-Drapeau (p66) Outremont (p116) R Wander the island’s walking paths, Ramble along St-Viateur and taking in the outdoor sculptures R before kicking up your heels at Bernard, visiting Drawn & Piknic Quarterly for its whimsical book selec- Électronik, a summertime electronica tions, hipster curiosities at Monastiraki dance fest. If it’s not on, try for some thrills and artfully recycled objects at Galerie on the world’s tallest wooden roller coaster CO. Before dinner, grab a taxi to Parc du at La Ronde. You can grab panoramic but Dinner Inventive Vietnamese fusion Dinner High-end fare at a new restau- and drinks at Hà (p110). rant in the Casino de Montréal (p69). Mont-Royal for a panoramic view of the decidedly slower views of the city from city from Kondiaronk lookout. 45m up on the Ferris wheel. Plateau Mont-Royal (p101) Parc Jean-Drapeau (p66) Head down to Casa del Popolo The island is a perfect spot to N N watch the sky explode with fire- and see what the hipster kids are cheering for on stage. Afterward, take a works during L’International des Feux late-night bar crawl down Blvd St-Laurent. Loto Québec. If not, the Casino de Stop in Big in Japan for elegance and Montréal has everything you need for a high-end libations, Majestique for oysters good time; just bring luck. Or take a long walk or quick taxi ride to Habitat ’67, ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 266 Montréal Maps Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkeling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing BART station Reef Other Activity Border crossing Boston T station Areas Sleeping Bus Airport/Runway Sleeping Cable car/Funicular Camping Cycling Beach/Desert Ferry Cemetery (Christian) Eating Metro/Muni station Eating Monorail Cemetery (Other) Parking Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Petrol station Drinking & Nightlife Subway/SkyTrain station Mudflat Cafe Taxi Park/Forest Train station/Railway Entertainment Tram Sight (Building) Entertainment Underground station Sportsground Other Transport Shopping Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book Missing image:../Images/39-index-montreal-mqc4.eps.eps. 1 1 1 1 1 MAP INDEX 1 1 1 1 e 1 Old Montréal p268 # 0 2 km 0 1 mile 2 Downtown (West) p272 LITTLE 3 Downtown (East) p276 ITALY 4 Quartier Latin & the Village p278 LITTLE OUTREMONT ITALY 5 Plateau Mont-Royal p280 MILE 6 Little Italy, Mile End & Parc 1 1 END Parc Sir 1 1 1 Maisonneuve Outremont p284 1 1 1 1 1 1 Wilfred 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Laurier 1 1 7 Parc Jean-Drapeau p286 1 1 Ð"6 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Cimetière1 1 Ð"5 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Notre-Dame1 - 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Parc 1 1 1 PLATEAU 1 des-Neiges 1 Parc 1 1 1 Olympique 1 1 1 1 1 MONT-ROYAL Summit 1 1 1 1 1 1 Parc du Mont-Royal Parc La Fontaine Ð"2 Ð"3 WESTMOUNT Ð"4 QUARTIER Parc Westmount LATIN DOWNTOWN THE VILLAGE CHINATOWN OLD Ð"7 MONTRÉAL St Lawrence River Île Ste-Hélène Ð"1 Parc Jean- Drapeau LONGUEUIL Île Notre-Dame VERDUN Lac Park des de la Voie Regates Maritime ST-LAMBERT 267 e qu i in m o t D 0- en r 00St 0000e 0 Ru D -Lau 00000 00St 0000 000vd 000 000Bl 00 0000 000 000 48 0000 ú# 84 0000 70 000 #û þ# 0000 rk ú# n 0000 la 55 C t 000s e ace Sun-Se 000 t- 59 0000e Ru Pl 0000 Ya ú# 000Ou # 0000 n 0000e #û w 0C00in 0000r rbai 49 72 #ú N e -U 0000 t
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