SVALBARD 2019 SEASON REPORT June 14 – September 9 SUMMARY

In 2019, NozoMojo had a total of 69 field observation days in Svalbard (same duration as in 2018, up from 46, 27 and 31 in 2015-17). This report provides an overview of all mammal species observed in Svalbard during those 69 field days in 2019, and for the birds it is for 60 of the same days.

On NozoMojo Svalbard tours, there is a tendency for a few biases in the sightings. We tend to focus on the north and east much more than the south and west, and also to focus a lot on finding Polar Bears. The ma- jority of the large whales are further offshore to the west than we often go. We also spend a proportionately large amount of time in the ice, which means relatively less time on the tundra. This year, with the ice being both compacted but also relatively empty, we ended up spending considerable time in major and smaller fjords in the central parts of Svalbard, which added more pinniped and bird sightings to our lists.

In 2019, we observed 16 species on mammal. During 2015-18, the numbers were 14, 15, 16 and 13. Had we just spotted one Bowhead (of which there were many), we would have set a new record in 2019. New live Svalbard species for NozoMojo in 2019 was Narwhal – which brings the total of mammal species we’ve seen alive in Svalbard over the years to 22.

We totalled 33 bird species, a good count. Compare that to a high 39 in 2018, but just 28-30 in the three seasons prior to that. The 33 species in 2019 is even better when we consider that a fair number of relatively common species were not seen (few ducks, few shore birds). Among the highlights were no less than THREE rare, vagrant gull species. Highlight days / locations were the north end of Storfjorden, between Sonklar- breen and Hellwaldbukta, on June 17, as well as Adolf- / Nordenskjöldbukta, on June 23. TOURS & DATES

NozoMojo was in Svalbard between June 14 and September 9, although most of August we were not. We spent 20 days on M/S Freya, 30 days on M/S Malmö, 10 days on S/V Antigua, and 9 days on M/S Polar Front. We (Morten & Nozomi) guid- ed most of the tours ourselves. Rinie van Meurs was with us on some of those, and additionally, he led tours without us (one on M/S Malmö with Sandra Petrowitz, and one on Polar Front with Mick Brown). Dan- iel Bergmann was with us on one tour on M/S Freya, while Nikita Ovsyanikov was with us on the S/V Antigua. WEATHER

The weather was very changeable throughout the season.

In June, the temperatures mostly ranged between 4 and 10 degrees C, with a brief dip to near freezing around the 27th. The winds were mostly low, from still on sev- eral days to up to force 3-4 Beaufort most days, mostly from directions which in- cluded some N. Twice it blew up to force 6-7. On about half of the days during the second half of June, it was either partly or completely foggy.

The July weather was average a bit colder than June, with a couple of days just below freezing, and many around 1-4 degrees. We did experience a high of 11 de- grees on July 19, when a southerly Föhn blew off a glacier. Nearer to the end of the month, 8-11 degrees was more the norm. The winds were generally low, with many still days or nearly so. And when it blew a little, it was often from the S. Only once did we have a force 7 from the N-NE. Just as in June, about half the days were spent in some degree of reduced visibility, while other days were very clear. Sometimes it changed on the same day from one extreme to the other.

In both June and July, the cloud cover was quite heavy about half the time, while approximately half of the remaining days were partly overcast, with the remaining essentially sunny. It only rained and snowed briefly a couple of times.

During the latter part of August, and into the beginning of September, the tempera- tures dropped slowly from around 4-8 average to closer to 2-3 average. A deep low pressure system dominated the weather around the beginning of September. The period was mostly overcast, and we had rain on several days. Easterly and NE winds blew fiercely for a few days, then an average force 3-4 from mostly the NW took over. The sun sometimes came out, at other times fogbanks hid everything.

ICE

The sea ice conditions during the summer of 2019 were quite unusual in a couple of ways. First of all, there was a very large quantity of ice, the entire N and E being blocked by an impenetrable pack. Compare if you will the below two ice charts – the first from June 5, 2018; the second from June 11, 2019. Secondly, the main pack was not only impenetrable, but also as far as the eye could see from the edge, almost void of life. We spent many days traversing the edges, particularly N of Spitsbergen and Nordaustlandet, as far E as Sjuøyane, but also to a lesser extent to the E of Olgastretet, S of Austfonna. In both areas, we struggled to find very many bears, seals, or even seabirds.

Come early July, the pack to the N as well as the SE had let go of the shore enough to let shipping through. But from Sjuøyane, as well as Freemansundet, it was still stop to the E. At the southern end of Hinlopenstretet, there was also no relief. This was one of the main reasons we ended up spending a full 10 days straight in the central parts of the Hinlopen Strait during our 20-night voyage.

By the end of August, and into September, the northern parts were mostly clear of the main pack, while a substantial amount of ice still lay along the S and E shores of Nordaustlandet. SPECIES ACCOUNT

Our 2019 observations of mammal and bird species are detailed in the following.

MAMMALS

Bowhead Whale (Balaena mysticetus) 2019 was a huge year for this species in Svalbard, with very many sightings, including of large groups not otherwise found in these waters in recent historical times. It will be very interesting to see what 2020 brings. NozoMojo unfortunately did not manage to spot any Bowheads, we seemed to be just a little distance removed from the concentrations throughout the season. When they were seen to the W, we were farther E, and when they were seen in the Hinlopen, a storm prevented us from accessing the area.

Blue Whale (Balaenoptera musculus) 4 sightings of 7 individuals July 2, 1 just S of the mouth of Hornsund. July 29, 4 in Hinlopenstretet. August 8, 1 in Hinlopenstretet. August 30, 1 in Isfjorden.

Fin Whale (Balaenoptera physalus) 7 sightings of 13 individuals Seen both off the W coast of Spitsbergen, in Isfjorden, and in Hinlopenstretet.

Fin Whale lunge feeding Minke Whale (Balaenoptera acutorostrata) 12 sightings of 17 individuals A doubling of observations relative to the later years. Rather spread-out sightings from the W to the E, from N to S, one time of 3 individuals, otherwise generally singly or in pairs. One was seen spy-hopping in dense ice.

Beluga Whale (Delphinapterus leucas) 6 sightings of 634+ individuals The numbers are all approximations, but also minimum. There may be repeaters among some of the sighted whales. On June 16, a pod of at least 80 individuals, including very many young animals, were foraging at the ice-edge near Wichebukta. On the same day, one lay dead on the ice with 11 polar bears around. One June 23, we spent an entire day in the company of among others at least 100 Belugas, in Adolfbukta. This pod contained very few young animals. A super-pod of at least 200-250 whales was seen on July 10, passing from W to E along the N Beluga Whales shores of Isfjorden. On July 23, a similar super-pod was seen entering into Adventfjorden.

Humpback Whale (Megaptera novaeangliae) 7 sightings of 9 individuals Not many at all: 4 sightings in or near Isfjorden, 2 in Storfjorden, the last in Hinlopenstretet.

Narwhal (Monodon monoceros) 1 sighting of 3 individuals On July 7, we spent the entire day along the ice-edge N of Spitsbergen. At 80,77 N and 016,62 E, what was presumably three animals, and presumably females, were briefly seen swimming at first parallel with the ice-edge in a westerly direction, then disappearing N into the main pack. Thanks to crew member Jonathan Persson, we have documentation for this rare sighting. After having seen dead Narwhals on the pack-ice three times in the last two seasons, this was the first ever NozoMojo sighting of live Narwhal in Svalbard.

Narwhal . © Jonathan Persson White-beaked Dolphin (Lagenorhynchus acutus) 1 sighting of 4 individuals On September 4, crew on board the S/V Antigua observed 4 dolphins in the night, near the entrance of Kongsfjorden.

Walrus (Odobenus rosmarus) Walrus Walrus male 46 sightings of 567+ individuals Not being able to penetrate very far E this year, our sightings were limited. But fortunately, the animal is increasing its numbers and expanding its presence. With an average of just 12/sight- ing, it goes without saying that we had many sightings of single or few animals. The largest con- centrations consisted of spread out groups on ice in the area between Lågøya and Sjuøyane, with some 150+ seen over the course of a day on July 6. 30-45 were hauled out on various dates at known locations such as Smeerenburg, Morenetangen and Kapp Lee.

Bearded Seal (Erignathus barbatus) 58 sightings of max 246 individuals, plus 2 dead (Polar Bear kills) Almost all of our sightings were made in the fjords, mostly some of the side-fjords of Isfjorden in June, and mostly in and near Hinlopenstretet in July. Obviously, some of the same seals may have been registered more than once, seeing as we went up and down in Hinlopenstretet for Bearded Seal more than a week in July. There were relatively few to be found on the pack-ice to the N and E (see also comments under other species, ie Polar Bear). Concentrations of 10-40 were noted on 5 occasions (max 40 on fast-ice in Ekmanfjorden on June 22, and 34 on drifting fjord-ice in southern Hinlopenstretet on July 14).

Hooded Seal (Cystophora cristata) 2 sightings of 3 individuals A brief viewing of an adult female in Wijdefjorden on July 10 was preceded by the very exciting sighting the day before of 2 juvenile animals together on an ice-floe N of Spitsbergen, at 80,42 N and 013,00 E.

Hooded Seal juveniles Harp Seal (Pagophilus groenlandicus) 13 sightings of 223 individuals Very few! Where were they? Almost half of the seen animals were in one sighting, approximately 100 individuals on August 9, off the N coast of Spitsbergen. Otherwise only a few sightings of 1-20 individuals. Note- worthy was a full day of cruising along the ice-edge N of Spitsbergen, on July 21, in great viewing conditions, with not a single animal seen!

Harbour Seal (Phoca vitulina) 5 sightings of max 39 individuals Twice, the Virgohamna haul-out was visited with 16 and 20 animals seen (some would probably be repeaters). The three other were more random sightings, one in Bellsund, one in 14. Juli Bukta, one in For- landssundet.

Ringed Seal (Pusa hispida) 60 sightings of max 840 individuals, plus 2 dead (polar bear kills) The vast majority of our sightings were made in the fjords, mostly some of the side-fjords of Isfjorden in June, and mostly in and near Hinlo- penstretet in July. Obviously, some of the same seals may have been registered more than once, seeing as we went up and down in Hinlo- penstretet for more than a week in July. The highest count was 110 on the remnant fast-ice in Ekmanfjorden, June 22. On June 27, we totalled 32 on a day spent along the ice- edge to the N of Spitsbergen. 55 were counted on remnant fast-ice in Murchisonfjorden, July 11-12. 121 were counted on remnant fjord-ice in Wahlenbergfjorden and Palanderbukta, July 12-13. On July 17, we were still able to count 100+ in Wahlenbergfjorden.

Harbour Seal female with pup Polar Bear (Ursus maritimus) 52 sightings of 75 individuals, of which 1 dead

This was a tough season for polar bear spotting. Despite the vast amounts of ice, we struggled to find very many bears. The huge and very dense fields of ice to the N and the E proved not only impenetrable for most of the season, but also proved relatively void of higher life- forms, at least when viewed from the edge and for as many miles across it as we could scan. Although we did manage to find a few polar bears, both far E towards and around Kong Karl’s Land, and also to the N of the main islands, in 2019 the vast majority of our sightings, and all our really good sightings, were in the fjords of the central and western parts of Svalbard.

Observations worth mentioning in particular include:

June 16, 11 bears concentrating around a presumed Beluga Whale kill on the ice in Wichebukta.

July 6, an entire day spent scanning, in good viewing conditions, along the ice-edge to the N of Spitsbergen and Nordaustlandet, with nothing seen.

July 7, a handsome male bear in his best age, but with a broken paw, seen on the edge of the northern pack.

July 17 and 20, in Hinlopen Strait, an adult female, thin, with a dirty face, lethargic, with a very tight collar. She was 16 years old, collared last in 2018, and was already thin then. She should have been with cubs, but neither now nor in 2018 did she have any.

September 4, in Krossfjorden, a healthy family of female with two yearlings, fishing salmon in a creek!

The largest concentrations of polar bears in 2019 were found in Storfjorden, in June. We had 11 bears more or less together on June 16, near Wichebukta, and we saw 5 in Mohnbukta on June 30. Polar Bear An interesting and revealing activity this year was our spending 10 days in a stretch in the central Hinlopen Strait area. This period spent in a relatively small area not only provided us with some very nice encounters indeed, but also allowed us to experi- ence the movements of some individual bears, which we saw repeatedly. While a cou- ple of bears were seen to be relatively stationary, others were a lot more mobile. Thus, one young male stayed more or less on the same ice floe in Wahlenbergfjorden for an entire week. At the same time, both an adult female and an adult male walked out of Wahlenbergfjorden and continued S in the Hinlopen for an entire day. One female walked with her one COY from the inner-most parts of Murchisonfjorden to and past Kinnvika over the course of a day. Another female bear was found in the southern end of Hinlopen, only to be rediscovered far to the N, at Idunneset in Wahlenbergfjorden, three days later.

Of the 74 live individuals, we were able to identify 26 as males (22 adult and 4 sub- adult) and 23 as females (18 adult and 5 sub-adult). A further 11 grown-up bears were not seen well enough to be aged/sexed.

Only 9 litters were seen, all of either one or two cubs, totalling 14 cubs. Only three COY (cub-of-the-year) litters were seen, and only one of those consisted of two COYs. Those statistics indicate that perhaps the preceding winter was a very poor breeding season for the bears, but also perhaps that cub survival was reasonable from 2018 to 2019. This was the first year since NozoMojo started systematically summarizing our observations that we saw more yearlings than COYs.

Three collared females were encountered. One is described elsewhere here, 16 years old, thin, lethargic and cub-less. Another was with one COY, unidentified, collar ap- parently not working. The third was a 21-year old local (NW Storfjorden) bear, last handled in March, at which time she weighed 147 kg.

Of the 49 adult bears seen well enough to assess, we noted 32 to be condition/cat- egory 3 = normal, 11 to be category 4 = fat, 4 to be category 5 = obese, and only 2 to be category thin = 2. The average of those numbers is 3,35 (down from our 3,8 average in 2018). No very thin cubs were observed, while most of the yearlings that we saw well looked chubby. Arctic Fox (Vulpes lagopus) 17 sightings of 31 individuals, including 1 dead This year’s sightings consisted of 30 live fox- es, of which 3 (10%) were blue morph. Also 10% of the foxes seen were collared! The most unexpected sighting was of a white morph individual running E, on July 7, along the ice edge at 80,9 N and 018,73 E.

Svalbard Reindeer (Rangifer tarandus platyrhynchus) Arctic Fox 27 sightings of 343+ individuals The Svalbard Reindeer are doing well, and they are easily found at very many locations. While most observations are usually of a few individuals up to around 30, the largest con- centration noted this year was of 96 individ- uals spread out on the tundra plain behind Habenichtbukta on Edgeøya. On September 9, we observed no less than three animals entangled in discarded fish- ing nets. One of these soon after drowned, while one was disentangled by the authori- ties, whom we had summoned to the loca- tion.

Svalbard Reindeer BIRDS

While we did not get near our record year of 2018 when it comes to the number of species and the number of rarities seen, 2019 was still a good year for birds, not least considering that we spent a lot of time in the central parts of Svalbard, and also that the vast majority of the expanses of pack-ice that we intensely scanned were quite empty.

Red-throated Diver / Loon (Gavia stellata) – 34+ individuals noted in 9 sightings. Highest counts were 10+ on Ziegler- and Delitschøya on June 19, and 9 at Poolepynten on Septem- ber 7.

Great Northern Diver / Loon (Gavia immer) – On June 18, we heard and saw a pair at Habenichtbukta. The following day, one adult flew S off Negerpynten.

Yellow-billed Diver / Loon (Gavia adamsii) – An adult in transitional plumage was seen on September 7. It was staging on the sea just N of Poolepynten, then as we approached with the ship, took off from the water and flew N. This was NozoMojo’s third Svalbard sighting. Red-throated Diver Northern Fulmar (Fulmarus glacialis) – Daily. Highest noted number was 500+ foraging in Adolf- and Nordenskjöldbukta on June 23.

Northern Gannet (Morus bassanus) – A new species for NozoMojo for Svalbard proper (not counting Bjørnøya). A sub-adult bird was discovered, by passenger Derek Holwill, foraging in the pack-ice at 80,42 N and 013,00 E on July 9. Total confusion for a few minutes, as the sighting overlapped with the discovery of two juvenile Hooded Seals.

Northern Fulmar Pink-footed Goose (Anser brachyrhynchus) – Some 305 individuals were noted in 12 obser- vations. The two highest counts were both from Kapp Lee, on June 18 and 26, respectively 58 and 65 noted.

Barnacle Goose (Branta leucopsis) – Just 12 observations noted. Max number was 50+ at Colesbukta on August 2.

Brent Goose / Brant (Branta bernicla hrota) – 27 birds seen in just three observations. All three were in the E: 10 adults staging in Diskobukta June 18. The next day, one seen at Zieglerøya, and finally on September 2, 16 flew N over Kapp Lee. Northern Gannet

Common Eider (Somateria mollissima) – Daily. Noted on 18 occasions, largest concentra- tion was of 250+ staging birds around Ziegler- and Delitschøya on June 19, but several smaller fjords also easily held between 100 and 200 birds.

King Eider (Somateria spectabilis) – 47 birds seen in 8 observations, all in June, with the largest flock being 21 on June 23 in Adolfbukta.

Long-tailed Duck (Clangula hyemalis) – Five observations of 73+ individuals, also all in June as with the King Eiders. By far the highest concentrations was 50+ birds seen around Ziegler- and Delitschøya June 19.

Ringed Plover (Charadrius hiaticula) – Just made the list this year with 2-3 birds seen at Fak- sevågen on July 29 (Sandra Petrowitz). Common and King Eiders Purple Sandpiper (Calidris maritima) – We noted 190+ birds in 19 sightings.

Grey / Red Phalarope (Phalaropus fulicarius) – Seven observations of 51+ individuals. Half of the birds were seen at one location, driving around Ziegler- and Delitschøya on June 19. Another small concentration were 12 birds at Habenichtbukta the day before.

Pomarine Skua / Jaeger (Stercorarius pomarinus) – Only 9 individuals noted in 6 sightings, second season straight with low numbers.

Grey Phalarope Arctic Skua / Parasitic Jaeger (Stercorarius parasiticus) – 125 individuals noted in 37 sightings. 1 downy chick on July 23, 2 fledged juveniles on September 4, the rest adults, 5 of which were dark morph.

Long-tailed Skua / Jaeger (Stercorarius longicaudus) – 10 adult birds seen in three observa- tions. On June 23, we enjoyed prolonged views of seven birds resting on remnant fast-ice in front of Nordenskjöldbreen.

Great Skua (Catharacta skua) – Only 23 individuals noted in 15 sightings. Arctic Skua Little Gull (Larus minutus) – One adult breeding plumage bird seen - the third record ever for Svalbard. NozoMojo also had the second record, in 2018! This year, we enjoyed prolonged views of a foraging bird at the N end of Storfjorden, between Sonklarbreen and Hellwaldbukta, on June 17. Two observations in as many seasons – coincidence? Or a trend?

Sabine’s Gull (Larus sabini) – Five adults seen. On June 19, one adult was seen off Negerpynten, foraging in dense pack-ice (Daniel Bergmann). Our best observations this year, however, were 2 pairs of adults seen supremely at the N end of Storfjorden on June 17.

Lesser Black-backed Gull (Larus fuscus) – On June 19, one adult (on extended migration?) flew E past Negerpynten. On June 23, two adults were staging on remnant fast-ice in front of Nor- denskjöldbreen. Little Gull Kumlien’s Gull (Larus glaucoides kumlieni) – An adult bird stood briefly among seven adult Glaucous Gulls at the tip of Poolepynten on September 7. When carefully approached, as the only bird of the eight, it took flight and headed N. This was the first NozoMojo observation of this (sub)species of gull in Svalbard.

Glaucous Gull (Larus hyperboreus) – Daily. A couple of observations in June included more than 100 birds foraging near glacier fronts.

Great Black-backed Gull (Larus marinus) – Two observations: A breeding pair near Blom- strandøya June 8, and three birds staging at Nordenskjöldbreen on June 23. This low number reflects where we spent our time, more than it reflects the status of the bird.

Sabine’s Gull Ross’ Gull (Rhodosthetia rosea) – A 2nd calendar year bird was briefly spotted in Storfjorden, at position 76,55 N and 017,45 E on June 25. It came from the S and flew in a straight line due N, never missing a beat. This constituted only the second ever observation of the spe- cies in Svalbard by NozoMojo. Ivory Gull (adult) Black-legged Kittiwake (Rissa tridactyla) – Daily. Large counts (1.500-3.000 birds) were made on two occasions in June and once in September.

Ivory Gull (Pagophila eburnea) – 42 observations of 200+ birds. A huge surge in numbers (22 observations of 94+ in 2018). Particularly one area, the NW shoreline of Storfjorden, especially between Mohnbukta and Wichebukta, accounts for the majority of the sightings, with 94 birds seen there on June 16 alone. About two weeks later, there were still at least 85 birds in the same general area. Only 2 non-adult birds were seen this year, one 2nd calendar year bird at Ossian Sars Fjellet on September 6, and one (possibly ill?) juvenile plumage bird Ivory Gull (juvenile) at Alkhornet on September 8.

Arctic Tern (Sterna paradisaea) – Daily. Highest foraging count was 250+ at the N end of Storfjorden on June 17. No massive post-breeding flocks seen this year.

Brünnich’s Guillemot (Uria lomvia) – Daily. Of interest, perhaps, was our frequent observa- tion of many flocks of these birds, particularly in July, flying far across the edge of the pack- ice, both in the N and towards the SE. Where were they going? What did they know that we didn’t?

Black Guillemot (Cepphus grylle) – Daily. Concentrations of 100+ seen a couple of times. Black-legged Kittiwake Little Auk (Alle alle) – Daily except in the pack-ice around Kong Karl’s Land.

Atlantic Puffin (Fratercula arctica) – Mostly seen in the W and N.

Snow Bunting (Plectrophenax nivalis) – Seen and heard regularly in the right habitat. 5-7 fairly close breeding territories seemed to be not unusual within relatively short ranges in suitable habitats (observation based on singing males). No unusual sightings.

Brünnich’s Guillemot IN CONCLUSION

Despite many years of going back to it, Svalbard has not ceased to awe, inspire and surprise.

NozoMojo LLC (http://www.nozomojo.com) runs trips in Svalbard every year, and to other destinations as well. If you are interested in a custom tour, in sub chartering your own departure, or in coming along as an individual guest, we will do our best to accommodate your wishes.

Best regards

Morten & Nozomi

This is the fifth SVALBARD SEASON REPORT from NozoMojo LLC (www.nozomojo.com). You may find this one, and the previous four, on our website (nozomojo.com/trip-reports/). www.NozoMojo.com [email protected]