The Inside: Top Colors for FallPg. ’0712 TIM GUNN JOINS LIZ/3 LAUDER NET UP 39%/4 WWD WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • TheTHURSDAY Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • February 1, 2007 • $2.00 List Sportswear

Edge of Night Expect metallics to stick around for fall. Designers are updating the shiny stuff with a downtown edge in looks fi t for day, night and that cocktail hour in between. Here, photographed at Fast Ashleys Studio, Samantha Treacy’s wool shirt and linen skirt. Nylon and spandex leggings from Romeo & Juliet Couture; Nine West pumps. ANT: CAMERON KERSHAW; STYLED BY MAYTE ALLENDE MAYTE STYLED BY CAMERON KERSHAW; ANT:

An All-American Man: Ralph, Penney’s Link to Create New Brand By Marc Karimzadeh lifestyle brand, which, come spring and children’s wear, as well as olo Ralph Lauren Corp. has 2008, is expected to become the accessories, intimate apparel and Pthe first big customer for biggest launch in the moderate home goods, and be merchandised its new Global Brand Concepts department store’s history. The across those departments at division: J.C. Penney. brand — which will be completely Penney’s. The retail chain today will unveil created by the Polo operation American Living is the first major the exclusive American Living — will comprise women’s, men’s See Lauren, Page 11 PHOTO BY PASHA ANTONOV; MODEL: OLGA/SUPREME; HAIR BY CHLOE AND MAKEUP BY JUSTIN ST. CLAIR, BOTH AT AARTIST LOFT; FASHION ASSIST FASHION LOFT; AARTIST CLAIR, BOTH AT JUSTIN ST. AND MAKEUP BY CHLOE MODEL: OLGA/SUPREME; HAIR BY ANTONOV; PASHA PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear FASHION ™ Rachel Roy, Lisa Perry and Rena Lange got a head start on New York 6 Fashion Week, showing looks that ranged from sleek to frothy. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL J.C. Penney will announce today the launch of the exclusive American 1 Living lifestyle brand, expected to be the biggest in the store’s history. CLICK-AND-MORTAR MINDSET Tim Gunn, chair of fashion design at Parsons and taskmaster of “Project First Women, Now Men Adopt Online Apparel Browsing 3 Runway,” is joining Liz Claiborne as chief creative offi cer. The Estée Lauder Cos. delivered a 39 percent profi t gain in the second When the World Wide Web became widely month, spending only 58.4 minutes overall. As 63 4 quarter, as it looks past department store doors to alternative channels. available, men were the early adopters, using it as a percent of women state that they “like” or “love” DENIM: European brands showing at Bread & Butter sharpened their communications and research tool, as well as for shopping, and only 17.3 percent of men make the 8 styling to battle the fast-fashion chains and a saturated denim market. entertainment. But, as the Internet became a bona fide same claim, the combination of bricks and clicks is a shopping channel, women began to appreciate its benefit for both gender mindsets. BEAT: Kimora Lee Simmons is all grown-up and so is her new high-end convenience and the role of Web Women will most likely 10 contemporary sportswear line, called KLS, launching for fall retailing. sites in apparel shopping research. maintain their steady hold on the EYE: Fashion week began early as starlets and models came to the Tribeca Today, it’s the men’s turn to play mantle of “the shopping gender” 16 Grand and Gramercy Park Hotel for the screening of “Factory Girl.” catch-up; and they are. According since certain traditional behaviors Classifi ed Advertisements...... 14-15 to the Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle and proclivities persist over time, To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. Monitor™, the amount of time says Kim Kitchings, director of [email protected], using the individual’s name. men spend browsing apparel has supply chain planning for Cotton WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT deceased by five minutes over the Incorporated. “Men are hunters ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 193, NO. 23. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one same time last year. However, the and women are gatherers; men are additional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three percentage of men who spent an looking to get what they need and additional issues in February, April, September and October) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by hour or less shopping for apparel women are trying to collect the best Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human online in a one-month period that they can find. So while women Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return increased from 44.9 percent to 50 are certainly utilizing all options undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: percent over same time period, and avenues available, they have SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE indicating that they are becoming typically favored brick and mortar INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new more adept and comfortable retailing more than men,” she subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production offers. “They like the real and correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, browsing for clothing online. “The Internet is making it easier please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other “Times are definitely changing. dynamic experience of seeing, Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list for every one to shop for whatever available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. It's well known that historically, touching and examining their If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA he or she is seeking and retailers 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, women have been the main garments.” OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, are finding ways to make online consumers of the fashion industry. The Web also affords consumers BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED shopping more emotional and MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR However, men are beginning to the option to stock up on basics or CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR functional at the same time.” DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY shop more like their female amplify specific fashion trends and A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. counterparts, which is evident to us — Milton Pedraza, that may have some gender specific Luxury Institute by the high number of men that appeal, considers Thompson from have joined and are using the Talbots. “The Web is a great tool Stylehive,” says Sabrina Yeung, an editor of the unique for a man looking to replenish staples or for a woman In Brief online social shopping community, Stylehive.com. looking for multiple wardrobing ideas.” Men are logging on in greater numbers and that’s Kitchings concurs. “It depends on who or what a ● MODEL LAW: Legislation to recommend standards and guide- likely at the direction of the women in their lives. woman may be shopping for, but if it’s for a special lines for the employment of models and child performers under “More women than men shop online because they occasion dress or important gift, a woman will make the age of 18 and prevent eating disorders was introduced in are more creative and able to imagine what they are the time to get it right and that likely will include some the New York State Assembly Wednesday by José Rivera (D., Bronx), chairman of the Assembly Task Force on Food Farm & buying; and now, they are showing men how to online browsing followed up by an in-store visit.” Nutrition Policy. The bill creates an advisory board of health do it,” explains Milton The same approach experts, industry representatives, models and entertainment Pedraza, chief executive Click-and-Mortar Shopping Habits of Men and Women applies to most high- professionals who would report to the Commissioner of Labor of Luxury Institute, an ticket purchases, asserts on the need for employment restrictions, weight or body mass independent research Male Female Pedraza, the luxury index requirements, medical screenings, referral protocols, organization. researcher. “Shopping education programs and enforcement. The bill would involve Like or Love Shopping 17.3% 63% “While there are in a store is highly the industry with medical experts to come up with guidelines. Sources in Albany said the bill has bipartisan support, but some differences between the Time Browsing for Apparel experiential,” he says. Internet 80 minutes 98 minutes question how well it can be enforced. The Council of Fashion way men and women Store 58.4 minutes 97 minutes “People crave that.” He Designers of America has developed guidelines for models, but shop for clothing, adds that the net has these have been criticized as too lenient by health professionals they’re ultimately gone a long way in who work to prevent and treat eating disorders. looking for the same thing: choice, high value for their educating the consumer and making the average Joe or dollar and service they can count on,” observes Betsy Jane a more satisfied shopper. “It’s easier and more ● A.S. WATSON DIVISIONAL PRESIDENT OUT: Hugues Thompson, director of public relations for Talbots. enjoyable than ever for anyone to shop online because Witvoet has stepped down as president of A.S. Watson’s Luxury retailers are constantly finding ways to make online Perfumeries and Cosmetics Division. A.S. Watson, the retail “They can find all these things online any hour, any day arm of Chinese conglomerate Hutchison Whampoa, said in a of the week. They can use the Web to help them find shopping more emotional and functional at the same statement that now that the transition period following its 2005 the clothes they need, narrow their shopping lists and time,” Pedraza concludes. acquisition of Marionnaud Parfumeries had been completed, search for the best values. Basically, the Web lets them E-tailers are responding to consumer needs with Witvoet would pursue new professional challenges outside window shop without leaving the house.” online translations of real-world customer service. the fi rm. Witvoet could not be reached for comment. Witvoet Even with more men logging on for fashion quests, These features include the ability to chat live with a joined Marionnaud in April 2005 as deputy managing director. women still rule the cyber shopping channel. According service representative online and offering frequent He took the company’s helm when owner Marcel Frydman left to the Monitor, male respondents spent an average of buyer programs or member incentives which can in September of that year. A.S. Watson thanked Witvoet for his achievements, including his development of Marionnaud’s new 80 minutes in a typical month browsing the Internet include club points, discounted shipping or an store concept, which was unveiled to the media last month, and for apparel; female respondents spent 98 minutes. expedited checkout process. And that all makes smart the restructuring of the retailer’s logistics centers, involving the While the amount of time decreased overall for men sense, according to Thompson. “The better the closing of 25 warehouses last year, as reported. A.S. Watson’s and increased overall for women, the substantial customer feels about his or her shopping experience Luxury Perfumeries and Cosmetics Division, which was cre- increase in men spending a shorter amount of time and purchases, the more likely they’ll be to return, and ated in January 2006, includes The Perfume Shop, Marionnaud browsing online points to increased efficiency on their that’s what this business is all about.” and ICI Pairs XL. Their executives will now report directly to part, with increased enjoyment accounting for the This story is one in a series of articles based on find- Dominic Lai, managing director of A.S. Watson group. ings from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ increase in the time women spent online. ● BCBG’S NEW DIGS: BCBG Max Azria closed on the three- This efficiency/enjoyment theory plays out in real- tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these level former Pier 1 space at 461 Fifth Avenue, at the corner of world shopping trips, where women also maintain the pages, each story will focus on a specific topic as it 40th Street. The retailer will open a more than 10,000-square- lead position. In a given month in the fourth quarter of relates to the American consumer and her attitudes foot store to house several collections, including BCBGirls and 2006, the average female respondent shopped 2.4 and behavior regarding clothing, a men’s department. With the Fifth Avenue store, the company times and spent 97 minutes in total shopping. Male appearance, fashion, fiber selection and will have four locations in Manhattan, including one on lower respondents shopped a lesser 1.3 times in an average many other timely, relevant subjects. Fifth Avenue, in the Flatiron district and in SoHo. Newmark Knight Frank Retail brokered the deal in the property, which is owned by S.L. Green Realty Corp. WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 1, 2007 3 WWD.COM Liz’s Hired Gunn: CEO McComb Makes Exec Moves

By Whitney Beckett William L. McComb, Tim Gunn and Gunn spent most of his 24-year ca- Trudy Sullivan. reer at Parsons as associate dean of the illiam L. McComb is solidifying his school, but in 2000 was appointed chair Wleadership team by making his fi rst of the fashion design program, in charge major appointments as chief executive of making over Parson’s curriculum for offi cer at Liz Claiborne Inc. the 21st century. Gunn began on “Project McComb has recruited Tim Gunn to Runway,” a role that made his face recog- join the company as chief creative of- nizable even outside the fashion world, in fi cer, a new post. And Michael Scarpa, late 2004. Claiborne’s chief fi nancial offi cer and “Tim has become an unbelievable senior vice president of fi nance and dis- spokesperson for the industry,” said tribution, has been promoted to chief op- McComb, who previously was a group erating offi cer. president at Johnson & Johnson. “We be- Gunn’s appointment was fi rst reported lieve we will benefi t from him having ac- on WWD.com on Wednesday evening. cess with the outside world.” Gunn is stepping down as chair of the McComb sees Gunn’s public connec- department of fashion design at Parsons tions as synergistic with his new role at The New School for Design, but will contin- Claiborne, and the company is encourag- ue on as taskmaster for “Project Runway.” ing him to keep his television commit- “Working with designers at Liz ments and his involvement at Parsons. Claiborne will be very similar to what The latter is still being negotiated, as I do with students at Parsons,” Gunn Gunn said the school was less than said. “I have tremendous respect for pleased to see him leave, though he hopes the brands and their individuality. I will to stay involved at Parsons — which is ask them questions like I do with my I have a huge learning curve ahead of me. For me, right across the street from Claiborne’s students: Whom are they designing for? “ offi ces — with roles such as being a mem- What does that customer need?” having lived as an academic for 30 years, I am fi nally ber of the thesis review committee, where And, McComb interjected: “What’s get- he can draft graduating seniors to come ting in the way of great design?” stepping into the real world. work with him at his new employer. McComb analogized the new post to a ” — Tim Gunn On whether “Project Runway” will be “creative dean” for the $4.85 billion fi rm, featuring Claiborne brand challenges in which has 47 brands, including Juicy than two decades, joined the compa- He will continue to report to McComb. its next season, McComb said: “We would Couture, Lucky Brand Jeans, Kate Spade ny as budget manager in 1983 and has Gunn, who starts March 5, also will report never put Tim in that position by asking.” and the Liz Claiborne brand. climbed the corporate ladder. Effective to McComb. His contract does not include a McComb said he and Claiborne presi- The new ceo, who joined Claiborne immediately, he will add manufacturing, specifi ed length of time, but McComb said dent Trudy Sullivan began discussing the from Johnson & Johnson in November, sourcing and information systems to his it would be a “long-term deal.” idea of a corporate creative offi cer at the said the idea to recruit Gunn came from current responsibilities over fi nance, dis- “I have a huge learning curve ahead end of November, and when they brought “my binder,” which is full of e-mail print- tribution and logistics organizations. of me,” Gunn admitted. “For me, having Anne Cashill, Claiborne’s vice president outs from Claiborne employees with sug- “The environment in which we operate lived as an academic for 30 years, I am of corporate merchandising and design, gestions on how to improve the company. is dynamic and shows no signs of slowing fi nally stepping into the real world.” into the conversation, his name immedi- “One of the things designers all talk- down,” McComb said in a statement. “To Claiborne declined to disclose Gunn’s ately surfaced. They contacted Gunn on ed about was wanting a spokesperson compete effectively in such a climate, we compensation package, but Gunn reiter- Dec. 21, and the appointment was just ce- for them at the top of the organization,” felt strongly it was important to have one ated, with a laugh: “I am moving from mented this week. McComb said. “Tim’s role is to help the executive overseeing product movement academia to the real world.” “We’ve always talked about the care design community. He is not joining us from start to fi nish; someone who could McComb’s recruitment of the high- and nurturing of our design community, as the master editor or designer of our take a holistic approach to the back end, profi le television personality marks the and this is a quantum leap forward,” said lines. The goal is to consistently produce yet understand the challenges of the front fi rst public move under the industry out- Sullivan. “This answers the question irresistible product and to attract, retain end. In Mike, we have found that person.” sider’s leadership. McComb has said not about the buzz in developing talent in and develop the best design teams.” Scarpa will remain on as chief fi nancial to expect his full leadership manifesto the industry. We want to be the place to Scarpa, a Claiborne veteran for more offi cer until Claiborne fi nds a replacement. until the summer. develop talent in the industry.” Celine Bolsters Management One Scottsdale Wooing Fashionable Names With Lepoivre Appointment NEW YORK — The devel- oper of One Scottsdale, By Miles Socha of the prestigious HEC busi- a 1.8-million-square-foot ness school, Lepoivre started mixed-use project rising in PARIS — Beefing up manage- her career as a product man- Scottsdale, Ariz., is sponsor- ment ranks to propel future ager at pen fi rm Waterman, ul- ing Mercedes-Benz Fashion growth, Celine has appointed timately moving to ST Dupont Week here in the hope of a new number two: Pascale and, in 1995, Vuitton. attracting fashion retailers Lepoivre, who joined the LVMH Also, Jean-Jacques Guevel to its 500,000-square-foot Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton- has been promoted to interna- shopping center. owned fashion house from sister tional director, another new “It’s a great way to reach brand Louis Vuitton on Jan. 16. post at Celine. Previously, he out to the retail merchants Lepoivre, previously direc- was director of Europe and trav- we are courting,” said tor of the fashion and leather el retail for Celine. Brunschwig Lynneah Hudson, market- goods division at Vuitton and a said Guevel would oversee both ing director of DMB, which 10-year veteran of that company, wholesale and retail at Celine, is building One Scottsdale. becomes Celine’s executive vice which is present in some 50 “About 80 percent are in president, a new post, reporting countries and has a mix of fully New York.” to president and chief executive owned stores and franchises. Luxury is the operative offi cer Serge Brunschwig, also a Another HEC graduate, word for One Scottsdale. Vuitton alumnus. Guevel’s résumé also in- “Luxury merchants cater Brunschwig said Lepoivre cludes stints at Vuitton and ST to a certain customer,” she would oversee the business unit Dupont. He started his career said. “We understand that.” — from creative and manufactur- as an internal auditor with oil The competition for ing to marketing functions — for fi rm Total Fina Elf and joined luxury retail tenants in the A rendering of the Moët & Chandon lounge by Bryan Bradley. leather goods, shoes and other ac- Celine in October 2004. Scottsdale vicinity is fi erce. cessories, including licensed prod- Since joining Celine in CityNorth, a complex in the Phoenix area, has signed Nordstrom, and Neiman Marcus is said to be ucts. Those categories account for March, Brunschwig has been close to making a commitment. Two other high-end shopping centers are under construction. “a good half ” of the Celine busi- building his teams to reinforce As the fi rst real estate development sponsor of fashion week, One Scottsdale is looking to “put ness, Brunschwig said. “We have what he calls the company’s Scottsdale on the map,” Hudson said. It is sponsoring a party at Bette tonight along with IMG Fashion, strong legitimacy and strong “operational excellence” as it Vogue Italia and L’Uomo Vogue, and co-hosted by Tinsley Mortimer and Theodora Richards. “This ambitions in leather goods.” aims to become a star brand in shows that we have an understanding of what’s out there and what’s hot,” Hudson said. These include bolstering the the LVMH stable. Market sourc- Another fashion week sponsor, Moët & Chandon, has a new venue, a Champagne lounge backstage in access-price segments of leath- es estimate Celine’s volume at the area formerly occupied by Olympus, replete with cushions and pillows designed by Bryan Bradley er goods, which span prestige, around $200 million, and it op- using fabric from the fall Tuleh collection he’ll send down the runway on Sunday. Moët & Chandon “high fashion” and signature erates some 110 stores, concen- corks will be popping backstage at several shows, including Betsey Johnson, and at after parties for designs, he noted. A graduate trated in Asia and Europe. Marc Jacobs, Zac Posen and Temperley London. — Sharon Edelson 4 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 1, 2007 WWD.COM Estée Lauder 2Q Earnings Soar 39% Investment Fund By Molly Prior “The situation with Federated has prompted Lauder to accel- NEW YORK — The Estée Lauder erate that effort.” Cos., which delivered a 39 per- Commenting on its brand port- Buys Bruno Magli cent gain in profi ts on an 11.6 folio, Beebee acknowledged that, percent sales increase from con- while the Estée Lauder Cos. had By Amanda Kaiser tinuing operations in its second more niche brands than many of quarter, is following in consum- its competitors, “where it could MILAN — Investment fund Fortelus Capital has acquired Bruno Magli ers’ footsteps by peering beyond use some help is on its interna- SpA, marking a new chapter for the beleaguered footwear company. department store doors to alter- tional fragrance portfolio.” U.K.-based Fortelus said it bought 100 percent of Bruno Magli native distribution channels. The Estée Lauder Cos. said from Bulgari SpA-backed equity fund Opera and its co-investors The beauty fi rm continued to in the second of half it planned for an undisclosed sum. broaden its reach with a spate to ratchet up investment spend- Timothy Babich, who founded Fortelus last year, said he closed of recent initiatives, including ing behind product launches the deal to buy Bruno Magli last week. Babich said Bruno Magli’s the television debut of Bobbi and new channel initiatives, as troubled past is over. He emphasized the “majority of the capital” Brown on QVC in the U.K., a well as training for its faster- Fortelus spent on the company will go directly into the Bruno Magli deal with Coach to launch an growing brands. business rather than to the shoe company’s former shareholders. eponymous fragrance in its 220 It reiterated that it remained “I think that part of [the attraction] was the history and the stores and plans to expand its on track to realize an incremental archives of all the designs. We think that there is a good base Clinique brand to all Sephora’s $30 million in savings this year, to build on,” Babich said, adding that it’s premature to discuss freestanding doors, with the ex- resulting from the cost-cutting strategic objectives for the brand. “We’ve identifi ed some of the ception of the J.C. Penney units. initiative implemented last year. things that can help improve some aspects of the business.” Clinique is currently in less William In the second quarter, all the Babich, a former executive at Connecticut-based Silverpoint than 50 Sephora stores. Lauder Estée Lauder Cos. beauty cat- Capital, said Fortelus is a turnaround fund with $300 million in “We’re pursuing both new egories — except for hair care capital. Bruno Magli, famed for its handmade men’s and women’s and alternative distribution op- — were adversely affected by shoes, is the fund’s fi rst purchase. He said the fund is looking at portunities,” William P. Lauder, Federated Department Stores other potential investments in Europe. president and chief executive BEAUTY BEAT closures, noted Lauder. Opera has had a hard time growing the Bruno Magli business, offi cer, said during a conference Hair care sales climbed 18.6 which it bought from the Magli family in 2001 for a reported $140 call Wednesday. “We’ll continue a multimedia platform for women. percent, to $93.9 million on a million. A well-placed source familiar with the workings of the to look for opportunities where As part of the effort, the beauty reported basis; skin care sales company lamented that Bruno Magli lacked a clear creative di- consumers are shopping for bet- firm’s e-commerce sites were gained 8.8 percent, to $701.1 mil- rection and suffered tight budget constraints. In 2005, BM USA ter aspirational cosmetics prod- linked to iVillage program sites to lion, and makeup sales rose 11.6 Inc., Bruno Magli’s U.S. subsidiary, emerged from bankruptcy, ucts around the world.” allow consumers to buy products percent, to $716.8 million, driven resolving one of the company’s most serious problems. The company said U.S. depart- in real time while watching TV. by double-digit growth in make- Babich said Opera already has completed a large portion of ment stores accounted for 75 to 80 During the quarter, the Estée up artist brands MAC Cosmetics Bruno Magli’s turnaround. He also commended consultancy Alix percent of North American sales. Lauder Cos.’s e-commerce sales and Bobbi Brown. Fragrance Partners, which has helped manage the footwear fi rm since 2003. As it continues to widen its increased by double digits. “The sales, which increased 14 per- Bruno Magli has a well-developed retail network, comprising distribution strategy, the fi rm in- Internet business continues to cent, to $465.1 million, fared 32 fully owned stores, of which 11 are in Italy and 21 in Japan. The creased net earnings from con- be our fastest channel of distri- better than last year, when sales brand also has more than 25 other stores managed through fran- tinuing operations for the quarter bution,” said Lauder. dipped 11 percent in the pe- chise agreements. Overall, Bruno Magli’s distribution reaches 60 ended Dec. 31 almost 39 percent, Referring to the beauty riod. The category was boosted countries, Fortelus said in a statement. to $208.5 million, or 99 cents a di- fi rm’s alternative channel strat- by recent launches such as Babich said Magli had sales of 45 million euros, or $59.4 mil- luted share, from $150.4 million, egy, Bear Stearns & Co. analyst Unforgivable by Sean John. lion, in 2006. In 2004, Aaron Schwartz, then president of Bruno or 70 cents, in the year-ago peri- Justin Todd Hott said, “It’s a By region, sales in the Amer- Magli North America, said the company did about $82 million in od. Sales, helped by the weak U.S. great step, but it has to be the icas gained 7.4 percent, to $944 annual sales worldwide, with the U.S. accounting for 50 percent. dollar and strong international right step.” He added that, while million on a reported basis for Meanwhile, the deal raises questions about the future pros- and Internet businesses, gained the company continued to focus the second quarter, bolstered pects for Opera. 11.6 percent, to $1.99 billion from on the Internet, signifi cant op- by makeup artist brands and Once a highly trumpeted mergers and acquisitions player, Opera $1.78 billion in the prior period. portunities also existed in the Unforgivable by Sean John, the has a nearly empty portfolio, consisting of furniture group B&B For the fi rst half, net earn- mass market and in specialty company said. International con- Italia and a minority stake in California-based A.G. Ferrari Foods. ings from continuing operations stores. “I think you have to at- tinued to outpace the Americas Bulgari owns half of the Luxembourg-based company that increased 25.6 percent, to $266.5 tach yourself to Sephora,” said during the quarter. Sales in manages the Opera fund. million, or $1.25 a share, from Hott, adding that he would have Europe, the Middle East and In 2004, Opera announced it had formed a 200 million euro, or $212.2 million, or 97 cents, in the liked to have seen the fi rm cre- Africa gained 15.6 percent, to $240 million, partnership with Bear Stearns Merchant Banking prior year, on sales that gained ate exclusive brands for the re- $761.7 million, and Asia-Pacifi c to pump up its purchasing power. But since then, Opera hasn’t 9.3 percent, to $3.58 billion from tailer, as it has done for Kohl’s. sales rose 15.9 percent, to $285.4 bought anything and opted to sell nearly all of its assets, includ- $3.28 billion a year ago. Sandy Beebee, vice president million, driven by double-digit ing yacht maker Itama, furniture company Unopiu and watch- The beauty fi rm’s marketing at HSBC, noted that the Estée growth in China and Hong Kong. maker Sector Group. Jeweler Morellato bought Sector last year. efforts increasingly will take the Lauder Cos. has been pursuing For the third quarter, the com- Renato Preti, Opera’s founder and managing partner, declined to alternative route, said Lauder. He alternative distribution since it pany has forecasted net sales comment on the Bruno Magli transaction or Opera’s future strategy. commented that, during the quar- acquired MAC Cosmetics in the growth of between 4 and 6 per- The fund has no spokesperson at the moment, making it even harder ter, the company partnered with mid-Nineties and began open- cent in constant currency. Full- to communicate with the company. Bulgari chief executive offi cer NBC Universal to create weekly ing freestanding stores for the year net sales gains are expected Francesco Trapani has been forthright about Opera’s mixed track beauty segments for iVillage Live, makeup artist brand, but added: to be between 6 and 7 percent. record on investments, saying the fund has succeeded in the home furnishings arena but faltered with both Bruno Magli and Sector. In November, Trapani said Bulgari may reduce its stake in Opera. He said the jeweler had started preliminary talks with potential in- vestors, who could take over part of Bulgari’s share in the company. Stella McCartney Deal Targets Australia “It’s not a given that it will happen,” Trapani said at the time, adding that any transaction would have minimal fi nancial impact for Bulgari. By Samantha Conti lored jackets, dresses, chunky knits, swing coats, blouses, T-shirts and camisoles in a range of col- LONDON — There’s no stopping the deals for ors and fabrics. Stella McCartney. Larice Lewis, Target’s general manager of The designer, who last week inked an agree- women’s apparel, said, “Stella McCartney for Hugo Boss Sales Gain 14% ment to do a collection with LeSportsac, today will Target will offer our customers a beautiful range unveil another collaboration, with Target stores in of winter essentials from one of the world’s lead- BERLIN — According to preliminary year-end fi gures released Australia, which are not linked with the ones in ing designers, at an accessible price.” Wednesday, 2006 net income for the Hugo Boss Group increased the U.S. The spokesman said prices would range 19 percent, to 129 million euros, or $162.1 million. Dollar fi g- The Stella McCartney for Target limited-edi- from 39.99 Australian dollars, or $31, to 199.99 ures are at average exchange rates. tion, 42-piece collection will be launched in se- Australian dollars, or $155. Earnings before taxes rose 14 percent, to 180 million euros, lected Target Australia stores on March 12, the The Stella McCartney for Target collection will or $226.1 million, and sales for the group rose 14 percent, to beginning of the fall season Down Under. The one- be showcased as part of Target Rocks Red Market 1.496 billion euros, or $1.88 billion. off collection has been inspired by key items from at the 2007 L’Oréal Melbourne Fashion Festival on Bruno Sälzer, chairman of the managing board, said the Boss McCartney’s yet-to-be-shown fall main line. March 10 and will be rolled out to select Target Womenswear and Shoes & Leather Accessories business divi- While the Target logo and shop design in stores two days later. sions “again proved to be strong growth areas in 2006.” Women’s Australia are similar to those of Target stores The Target Australia deal is the latest in a sales leapt 69 percent, to 162 million euros, or $203.5 million, in the U.S., the Australian retailer has different string of partnerships McCartney has formed to and shoe and leather accessories sales grew 28 percent, to 151 owners from its American counterpart. A spokes- boost her brand’s profi le and her company’s bot- million euros, or $189.7 million. man for the designer said there was no deal with tom line. Other collaborations include the limit- In a statement, he also noted that the Group’s directly oper- Target in the U.S. in the works. ed-edition accessories collection with LeSportsac ated stores increased sales 39 percent, to 192 million euros, or “I’m really excited by this collaboration, ” said being launched in spring 2008, a line of fashion- $241.2 million, contributing to Boss’ strong performance. McCartney. “I wanted the collection for Target to forward activewear for Adidas and a one-off The managing board is forecasting “the positive sales and reinterpret all the ‘best ofs’ and ‘must-haves’ of clothing collection for H&M in November 2005. earnings trends to continue in 2007.” Final fi gures will be made Stella McCartney for winter, and make my designs McCartney also has two fragrances and will in- public at the annual fi nancial press conference March 21. more accessible to a wider audience in Australia.” troduce her fi rst organic skin care line, CARE by — Melissa Drier The collection includes jeans, trousers, tai- Stella McCartney, in the U.S. on Feb. 15. MORE BRILLIANT WOMEN’S BRANDS THAN EVER BEFORE !IT CROSSLEY JAKE’S DRY GOODS NIKKI JAGGS SHARON SEGAL 10 FEET D COLLECTION JEDIDIAH NISA SAN FRANCISCO SHAY LOS ANGELES 191 UNLIMITED D.E.P.T. JEM SPORTSWEAR NOBLE NOBI’LE SHE BIBLE 1921 DE HOGHTON JENNY HAN ARISTICRATO SHERI BODELL 2K BY GINGHAM DEENER JENNY JEN NOLITA SHERRY NIKKA 3GR DEEPER SHADES OF SOUL JERBECK NYLON BY DEX SHERRY WOLF 3RDBORN CLOTHING DEL FORTE ORGANIC DENIM JOHAN BY J.LINDEBERG OBÜS SIGNORELLI 40 WEFT DENIM DESIGN LAB JOHNSON CLOTHING INC ODD MOLLY SIN 575 DENIM DENIM FOR IMMORTALITY JOOMI JOOLZ ODYN SINGLE 7 FOR ALL MANKIND DEVOTION TAKES A TRIP JORDI LABANDA OMORIKA SIXTY 80%20 DEX JOSETTE ONE LIFE LOS ANGELES SKUNKFUNK A. KURTZ DOLAN JULLY KANG ONE SEASON SLEDGE USA A.B.S. DOLOMITE JUMA ONNA EHRLICH SOCOLEY AG ADRIANO GOLDSCHMIED DOMA JUNKFOOD CLOTHING OPERATIONS NY LLC SOLID DENMARK AKIKO DOUBLE A JUST IV ME ORANGIA SOUL REVIVAL ALICE & TRIXIE DRYKORN KAJ ANI OUTPOST TRADING COMPANY SOUNDGIRL ALPHA INDUSTRIES DWELL KAPORAL OXMO SPICE & ROSES AMERICAN APPAREL DYLAN & DILLION KARMA DESIGNS PANDA SNACK SPIEWAK AMERICAN CHANG ECCENTRIC SYMPHONY KÄRV PANI SPITFIRE SUNGLASSES AMPLIFIED ECO-GANIK KEDS PAPA & K SPLENDID ANJARA ELLA MOSS KITCHEN ORANGE PAPER STREET SPY ANN CHERICO ENERGIE KITSON JEANS PARADE STACEY RHOADS SALES ANZEVIINO AND FLORENCE EROTOKRITOS/ EROS KOVA & T PARAJUM PERS STACIA AQUA VI ETNIES PLUS KRIS NATIONS PARASUCO STENCIL ARISTOCRACY EVE*LYNN KRITIK PAUL FRANK SUPERREAL ARTINE FALLEN PRYDE KUNNA PEACE BY LOTTA STENSSON SWEET SOUL AUTUMN CASHMERE FARM ER LA MADE PEACE OF US SWEETEES BY MELLIES AWAKE COUTURE FARRON ELIZABETH LANGUAGE LOS ANGELES PELIGROSA T.R.E.E. B O B I FARYLROBIN LAQUETTE PEOPLE LIBERATION TAG+ JEANS B UNITED FIDELITY LARA MILLER PERFECTLY IMPERFECT TAI LO R VI NTAG E BAMBU TYGER FIVE CROWN LAURA DAHL PERPLEX & LOLA TAM I E C E BARBARA HIRSH DESIGNS FLOWER HOUSE LAURA DAWSON PETE AND GRETA TANKFARM CLOTHING BCBGIRLS FLUX NOUVEAU LAUREN JANE PHILIPP PLEIN TAN K U S BEAU SOLEIL FOR LOVE AND LIBERTY LAUREN MOSHI PLANET USA TART BEJEWELED KIDS FORNARINA LE TIGRE PLL ENGINEERED BY POLECI T-BAGS BEJEWELED FORTUNE DENIM LEILA POST VEGAS TEE PARTY BELLE HEROINE FRANKIE B LEVEL 99 PRAIRIE UNDERGROUND TERRITORY BIG M BY YVES CASTALDI FREE FOR HUMANITY LEVI’S CAPITAL E PRELOVED THE PROPORTIONOFBLU BILINGUAL FREEDOM OF CHOICE LINE PREP LEAGUE THREE DOTS, LLC BLACK HALO FRENZII LINQ PRETTY PUNK TMD MEN BLACK HEARTS BRIGADE FRESH INK LISA D. PRIMP TOON COUTURE BLUE CULT FRESH KARMA LOTTA STENSSON PROJECT E TRACY MATTHEWS DESIGNS BLUE TATTOO FRX FUTURE PRESCRIPTION LOVE & EIGHT PUBLIC FUSION TRADE BO FRYE LOVETHISLIFE PUBLIC LIBRARY TRINA TURK BORDEAUX GANT LTB BY LITTLEBIG PUMA BLACK STATION TRIPLE 5 SOUL BORN IN CALIFORNIA GENETIC DENIM LUCKY 7 PURE & SIMPLE TROY KINGDOM BORN UNIQORN GENTLE FAWN LULA BY ANGELICA COTA QUAIL TRUE LOVE & FALSE IDOLS BOY MEETS GIRL BY DEESH GLAD NEWS LURE RACHEL MARA TRUE RELIGION JEANS BRAVO NEW YORK GLORY CHEN LUXURY SAFORTE RACHEL PALLY TRUTH BREAD AN BUTTA GOLDEN TAYLOR LY R I C C U LT U R E RAILS TWELVE SYMBOLS BROWN LABEL GOLDSIGN MACK TRUCK CLOTHING RANAHAN JEANS TWILLTWENTYTWO BUDDHIST PUNK GSUS SINDUSTRIES MACKAGE RARE TWINKLE BY WENLAN BURN N VIOLET LIMITED GUIDO & MARY MANUEL DESIGNS, LLC RAVEN DENIM TWISTED HEART BUTIK HABIT MARK XVIII REBECCA CICCIO UFO CONTEMPORARY INC. C&C CALIFORNIA HALE BOB MASONS UNDERGROUND REBEL YELL UGG AUSTRALIA OUTERWEAR CALLIXTA HALE BOB SHOES MASSIMILIANO MUSINA RED ENGINE UNDERTEASE CANDELA HALEY K MATIKO RED MONKEY DESIGNS UNION CAPORICCI GIANMARCO HARAJUKU LOVERS MAVI REDS VERGIN SAINTS AND ANGELS LORENZI KENZO HARD TAIL ME(ËL) RELICS OF ANTIQUITY VESTIAIRE BY YVES CASTALDI CASTING HARKHAM MEGHAN RELIGION VINTAGE CHINA JEANS CATCH A FIRE HAYDEN-HARNETT MELANIE NICOLE RETROSPORT BY REEBOK VINTAGE REBEL CAVERN HELLO KITTY MELISSA ODABASH REVOLVER LOS ANGELES VITA CHARLOTTE RONSON BY VICTORIA COUTURE MELISSA RHYS DWFEN VOTEL CHARLOTTE HEM MEMBERS ONLY RIX CHIX WE THE PEOPLE CHILLI PEPPER HOOCH METALICUS ROBIN’S JEAN WEARETHESUPERLATIVE- CHIP AND PEPPER/CPU HORN MIMI & COCO ROCK & REPUBLIC CONSPIRACY, INC. CHULO PONY HOUSE OF SPY MINORITEES ROCK REVIVAL WEDNESDAY CIMARRON HOUSE OF THE GOD MINUS-UNG ROJAS WELL WORN CODEVINTAGE HOW WILD IS JANE? MISPLACED COWBOY ROMEO & JULIET COUTURE WHITE LOTUS COEXIST HUDSON JEANS MK2K ROUGH WEAR WIFEBEADER COIL DENIM IDIOM MOCHA FASHION DESIGN ROYAL PLUSH WILLIAM RAST COLCCI INDIAN ROCK MON PETIT OISEAU RUDSAK COLLECTION YAF’F L E CONVERSE BY INDUSTRY MONOTYPE S.SUNG YAK U ZA JOHN VARVATOS INSTITUTE LIBERAL MR. GREEN SAINT GRACE YELLOWMAN CONVERSE INC. IRO MU KIDS BY YVES CASTALDI SAMEUNDERNEATH YUMI KIM CONVOY IRREGULAR CHOICE MUCHACHA SAMPLE AGENCY YVETTE MANDELL CORE ITSUS MYNT SANCTUARY CLOTHING Z-BRAND COREY LYNN CALTER IZAAK MY-TEE/HOPE & GLORIE SCRAPBOOK ZEHA BERLIN CORPUS J & COMPANY NAF NAF SECOND ZISSOU & SPIKE COSMOSFACT J. SHOES NAGUAL SECTA ZOA COVET J.C. RAGS NATION SELECT BY J & COMPANY CRASH & BURN J.FOLD NEW LONDON USA SERFONTAINE CRIMES AND MISDEMEANORS J.J. WINTERS NEWLIFE BY LOTTA STENSSON SHARED LIST AS OF 01.10.07 P ROJ E CT LV F E B 14 15 16 SA ND S E X P O FOR A COMPLETE LIST OF ALL 1300+ BRANDS INCLUDING WOMEN’S, MEN’S, KID’S AND ACCESSORIES AND FOR REGISTRATION INFORMATION, CHECK OUT WWW.PROJECTSHOW.COM 6 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 1, 2007 WWD.COM Off and Running Several designers got a jump start on New York Fashion Week, giving their fall looks plenty of details and embellishments. NEW Rachel Roy: Not one to rest on the laurels of her spring collection’s feminine delight, Rachel Roy tried her hand at a more masculine, artsy edge for fall. She followed a sleek, tailored line with architectural YORK pintucks and seams, and toughened up otherwise sweet frocks with patent-leather strips and zippers. The series of pleated, cropped pants looked tricky for anyone without beanpole dimensions, but the slim cream cocktail dress with just a touch of beading had universal appeal.

Lisa Perry: Avid art and vintage collector Lisa Perry, whose husband Richard runs the $12 billion Rena hedge fund Perry Capital, unveiled her namesake collection at a party Tuesday night, held in her chicly Lange outfi tted SoHo studio, complete with a Barbara Kruger above the makeshift bar. Co-hosts Tiffany Dubin, Cameron Silver and Yvonne Force Villareal were joined by guests like Thelma Golden, Harvey Weinstein and Perry’s daughter, Samantha, home from Harvard and dressed in one of her mom’s frothy numbers. “People always used to ask me where I got what I was wearing and because it was vintage I could never point them in the right direction,” said Perry, explaining her idea for starting the line, which will be carried exclusively at Jeffrey New York for the fi rst two seasons. Her big message: Sixties-inspired wool jersey dresses and bright-colored gowns, many bedecked with circles and fl owers. Too cute, perhaps, for the price range, from $450 to upward of $1,200.

Rachel Roy Rena Lange: In the fi rst fall collection under the aegis of new creative director Franke Gembalies, formerly of Akris, and design director Julian Neale, who came from Celine, the Rena Lange line has a fresh new Lisa and direction. For fall, the German fashion house renewed its emphasis on wardrobe staples, livening up Samantha Perry blazers, trenches and what the house calls “the Belle de Jour dress” with tassel accents and a rich color at Lisa Perry. palette that included burgundy and deep forest green. Some of the jackets and coats were sporty, others softly crocheted or detailed with topstitching and sequins.

Fashion Week offi cially begins, but designer Douglas Hannant clearly won’t be experiencing any industry pariah issues. Fashion Scoops His presentation at Gotham Hall tonight marks the designer’s 10th anniversary KISS KISS: Betsey and will be followed by a cocktail Johnson, Cynthia Steffe celebration. Some of Hannant’s social and Alice Roi will be and celeb fans expected to help him ring kissing and telling in the next decade are Marlee Matlin, tonight. The designers Valesca Guerrand-Hermès, Julia Stiles, — along with Donna Amanda Hearst, Gillian Hearst-Shaw, Stella Karan, Nicole Miller, Dana Keitel, Lorraine Bracco, Jane Krakowski Buchman, Shoshanna and Sharon Bush. And guests will be in Lonstein Gruss, Nanette for some music, too, as new band The Lepore, Monique Pierces (comprising Allison and Catherine Lhuillier, Rebecca Pierce) will attend the show, whose Moses, Cynthia Rowley, soundtrack will include their new track, Rachel Roy and three “Boring.” Let’s hope the song’s title won’t dozen other celebrities apply to the looks going down the runway.

— all shared their fi rst ANTONOV PASHA PHOTO BY or most memorable kiss Elettra Rossellini Wiedemann, Daria Werbowy and LATE SHOW: Karl Lagerfeld pushed a stories for Macy’s custom- Shalom Harlow. fashionably late arrival to the ultimate published book “Kiss & opportunity to share my interest and limit, arriving past 1 a.m. to the party Tell.” Nicky Hilton is hosting the Macy’s passion for the environment,” Rossellini organized for the launch of his very own Presents Kiss & Tell benefi t tonight at Wiedemann told WWD. “And Carbonfund. K Karl Lagerfeld denim line Friday. The PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO, TALAYA CENTENO, KYLE ERICKSEN AND ZACK SECKLER KYLE CENTENO, TALAYA JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY Loft 11 in New York, which will feature org is such an amazing organization, designer was held back due to a fashion a kissing booth, plus silent auctions on which is doing so much good.” shoot for France’s Numero Magazine. kisses from Hilton, Johnson, Rowley, Joss In addition to other initiatives, Meanwhile, across town, fashion and Stone and Vanessa Minnillo. Money raised Lancôme will plant a tree for each of furniture designers were trading places at more this evening plus 10 percent of the the fi rst 10,000 bottles of the new the dinner organized by French interior book’s proceeds will go to the American Primordiale serum sold in the U.S. design trade show Maison & Objet to Heart Association’s Go Red for Women Rossellini Wiedemann’s fellow honor Christian Lacroix as decorator of from movement, of which Macy’s is a national spokesmodels — Selena Breed, Shalom the year. “I think it’s a scandal,” joked sponsor. Who score as designers’ most Harlow, Inés Sastre and Daria Werbowy artist and designer Hilton McConnico, memorable lip locks? For Miller, Lhuillier, — also are throwing their support referring to the growing number of the Kimora Lee Simmons, Steffe, Roy and behind the cause. “I’m a Greenpeace fashion designers adding furniture design Johnson, it’s their children, while for sort of girl,” joked Breed. “It’s easy to their list accomplishments. Lacroix, Buchman, Rowley and Lonstein Gruss, to feel overwhelmed when you think Loulou de la Falaise and Chantal Thomass it’s their husbands. And Lepore? “I never about global warming,” Harlow said. were among the fashion-cum-furniture shows kiss and tell!” “Something like this makes you realize designers. Rick Owens also made an every individual can make a difference.” appearance at the dinner. MODELS GO GREEN: Eco-chic was a hot MarieMarie: At topic at Lancôme’s Wednesday-morning INVITE T’S: Whether they knew it or HOLLYWOOD ENDING: GoldSign designer MarieMarie, Jada breakfast, held at Milk Studios in New not, those on Zac Posen’s fall guest list Adriano Goldschmied and Japanese denim Marie Simons York to introduce the brand’s latest skin received a preview of his collection along label Evisu are teaming up again for a was expanding her care offering, Primordiale Cell Defense & with their invitations. Posen sent out T- new denim line, dubbed Evisu Goes to horizons — sure, there Skin Perfecting Serum, due in June, and shirts emblazoned with a black-and-white Hollywood. Goldschmied has a history were still plenty of her to kick off a green initiative, the company trompe l’oeil version of an embroidery with Evisu that began 10 years ago when bread-and-butter jersey is undertaking it with Carbonfund. pattern that will grace his runway on he worked with Peter Caplowe, Evisu’s looks, but she’s also added org. The unlikely matchmaker between Feb. 8. “They’re going to be tonal pieces, managing director, to develop that label sleek trenches and peacoats, Lancôme and the environmental group white on white and black on black in into a global brand. In October, the two as well as a few simple evening is Elettra Rossellini Wiedemann, named suiting and fully encrusted pieces…. paired up for a limited-edition jean to gowns, to the mix. one of the brand’s spokesmodels in Potentially,” he added cryptically. The mark the brand’s 10th anniversary in August. Rossellini Wiedemann — the T-shirts were also an attempt at eco- the U.S. The success of that project has twentysomething daughter of actress, mindedness. “They’re less wasteful than resulted in Evisu Goes to Hollywood, model and former Lancôme face Isabella paper,” he said. As of Wednesday, the a 30-piece collection that will include Rossellini — is studying environmental designer hadn’t yet received the fi nished some jersey shirtings and will retail for issues, along with politics, history and embroideries. $100 to $400. The line is expected to economics, at New School University. launch for fall 2007 and will sell in high- She plans to graduate later this year. DYNAMIC DUO: He may be showing his end boutiques and select department “Lancôme has given me an incredible fall collection a day before New York stores such as Barneys New York. WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 1, 2007 7 WWD.COM Stuart Takes Youthful Approach With Jill By Julee Greenberg houettes are concerned, she said, adding that the real difference in Jill is that it is “more youthful and bold.” A satin dress from NEW YORK — Showgoers may notice a difference when The collection consists of printed and solid satin dress- the Jill collection. Jill Stuart presents her collection Monday in a runway es and tops, velvet dresses, tweed wool and soft felt coats, show at the New York Public Library. wool plaid jumpers, skirts and cotton sweaters. The rich That’s because the company plans to show select color palette of deep purple, blue and green is mixed with pieces from the new Jill collection, a lower-priced con- the occasional piece of black, white or dark brown. The temporary sportswear line launching in the fall. The line wholesales between $40 and $159 and will launch at new line will follow the same business model as the col- the Fashion Coterie trade show, beginning Feb. 20. lection the company sells in Asia. That line, launched “We have been urged by many of our accounts to 10 years ago, now generates more than $100 million in bring the [Asian version of Jill Stuart] line here for some wholesale volume. time,” said Curtis, who is Stuart’s husband. “[We] con- A source close to the company said Jill Stuart’s U.S. sidered launching it fi ve years ago. Instead, we decided business is much smaller, bringing in about $30 million an- to concentrate on rounding out our lifestyle offering.” nually. With the launch of Jill, Ron Curtis, president of the The company has been working on a major push in fi rm, said he hopes to expand in the next year, bringing in Asia, offering cosmetics and children’s wear, and open- another $25 million to $30 million in wholesale volume. ing freestanding stores. Jill Stuart also developed a fra- Although the Jill line is similar in look to the higher- grance, Jill Stuart Vanilla Lust, which is sold worldwide. end Jill Stuart line, the price points are considerably Its new men’s line, Stuart Curtis, is entering a second lower. A typical dress on the Jill Stuart line retails at season at retail. around $700, but a customer shopping the Jill collection The 50 Asian stores the company has opened in the will be able to leave with a $300 dress. past year have “produced a signifi cantly higher volume “It was really diffi cult for me to fi nd fabrics that are and return than those in the U.S. and Europe,” Curtis high-end enough, but at an accessible price point,” said. In hopes of expanding that business, he said the Stuart said in an interview from her showroom at 550 company anticipates opening 20 to 30 stores in the U.S. Seventh Avenue here. “I don’t know cheap, and I don’t and in Europe within the next three years. There also like working with cheap fabrics.” are plans for store openings in the Middle East begin- But Stuart did fi nd them. The collection is similar to ning this year. These new units will the Jill Stuart line, as far as the color choices and sil- add to the 140 stores the company

Jill’s cardigan A minidress A wool and plaid skirt. in wool. tweed coat.

Jill Stuart in her showroom. operates worldwide, and will boost the presence in the U.S., where there is only one store, located here in SoHo. Curtis said the company plans to open in major cities such as Los Angeles, Las Vegas and Boston. “The Jill line will also open many new doors for us, since it is priced on the lower end of the scale,” Stuart said. “I am sure we can now be present in places we couldn’t be with Jill Stuart.” And that’s not all the company has in the works. Stuart said she wants to make Jill a lifestyle brand on its own, with handbags, watches and even a fragrance to go with the sportswear, and soon launch children’s wear in the U.S. “I love making clothes for little girls,” she said. “Especially having three daughters of my own, it’s al- ways been fun for me.” Over time, she said, this brand will develop into a full lifestyle line, but she isn’t rushing anything. “I’m so happy that we waited until we could make it better,” she said. “I have so many ideas and am very

PHOTOS BY ROBERT MITRA ROBERT PHOTOS BY hands-on, so what is to come will be really fantastic.”

of Milan, and has since added two McArthurGlen’s business. more developments near Rome and “I fully expect that Giovanni’s focus Mall Developer Builds European Team Florence. on luxury brands, his broad business The company is developing anoth- skills and managerial acumen, and By Amanda Kaiser ness development and leasing. He will er four retail complexes in southern his profile in the industry will sup- play a key role in projects involving new Europe. A Venice location is due to port our existing operations there and MILAN — Designer outlet mall devel- markets, the company said. open next year, and malls in Sicily and lend much to our exciting new projects oper McArthurGlen is bolstering its “Over the past decade, McArthurGlen Yalou, Greece, near Athens, are slated under way in the region,” Calabrese management team in southern Europe has pioneered a highly effective outlet to open in 2009. A site close to Naples said in a statement. in a bid to grow its Mediterranean shopping concept to become the indus- will house another mall, although a Galbiati spent 15 years at Versace, presence. try leader. Staying on top is even hard- timetable has not been determined, working his way up until he became The U.K.-based operator has tapped er,” Galbiati told WWD. “I’m commit- a spokeswoman said. Elsewhere in group general manager in 1998, a posi- Giovanni Galbiati, a former Brioni and ted to consolidating the already strong Europe, McArthurGlen is planning cen- tion he held for six years. He went on Gianni Versace executive, as managing performance and exploiting what I be- ters in Salzburg, Austria, and in Berlin to work at high-end home furnishings director for Italy and regional director lieve to be untapped potential between and Hamburg, Germany. company Molteni & Co. for two years. for southern Europe, a newly created McArthurGlen and the off-price luxury Both Galbiati and Stroppiana will be Most recently, he was Brioni’s director dual role at the company. He will start segment in this industry.” based in Rome, where McArthurGlen of worldwide sales and marketing, a po- his new position today. This is the fi rst of what will be a recently relocated its regional of- sition he held for just 10 months before The company promoted Stefano series of regional appointments at fi ce from Milan. They both report to joining McArthurGlen. Stroppiana, who until now was manag- McArthurGlen. The company operates McArthurGlen chief executive offi cer The outlets sell discounted appar- ing director for Italy and European leas- 16 outlet malls throughout Europe. Julia Calabrese. el and accessories from brands like ing director. He will now be a partner at It entered the Italian market in 2000, Calabrese said there was “tre- Giorgio Armani, Prada, Diesel, Burberry McArthurGlen, overseeing group busi- opening the Serravalle Outlet south mendous opportunity” to grow and Polo Ralph Lauren. 8 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 1, 2007 WWD.COM Denim Report Brands Go Beyond Basics at Bread & Butter

By Emilie Marsh was noted, it was less of a concern than the unseason- ably warm January temperatures that neared the 70 de- A fall look from BARCELONA — Talk about a contemporary movement: grees mark. G-Star. European sportswear brands showing at the recent “The changes in climate are going to start becoming Bread & Butter trade show here spun out smartened-up an issue. Outerwear will have to become a part of short- styles in the face of fierce competition from fast-fashion order sales,” said Laurent Roure, co-owner of London’s chains and a saturated denim market. Bread and Honey, which sells sportswear and contempo- HILLIG MATTI PHOTOS BY The show, which wrapped up its three-day run Jan. rary brands for men and women. Roure said he placed 19, was awash with brands keen to diversify their offer- orders with London’s Laura Lees Label, France’s Sessùn ings and smooth the boundaries between high fashion and Spanish accessories line Mimotica Micola. and comfort. Many were also taking a minimalist ap- The Mimotica Micola label, designed by Barcelona proach to their collections. graphic designer and accessories guru Raquel Micola, Retailers noted that labels such as Levi’s, Lee and boasts whimsical designs in tweeds, tartans, patchworks G-Star were diversifying to cover all fashion categories, and polkadots that she pairs with her comic characters including outerwear, footwear and accessories. Mimo and Mr. Pain for a colorful handbag line at afford- Targeting a more sophisticated clientele, vendors able prices. showed sportswear, streetwear and jeanswear based on Although many buyers said their budgets remained clean, streamlined styles. Slim-fi tting raw denim worn on par with last season’s, they were shy of placing or- high on the waist, discrete branding and men’s wear- ders and preferred to hold back as much as 20 percent inspired tailoring applied to women’s jeans were key to 40 percent of their budgets for immediate deliveries directions for fall. and new styles. Somber dark blue, gray and black set the tone. “Replenishments are key,” said Patrick Kraaijeveld, Trimmings, such as leather detailing and fabric-cov- G-Star’s export director, not- ered buttons, added a soupçon of sophistication to col- ing the brand’s 24-hour delivery lections and allowed for more individuality. policy. “Increasing frequency of Bags from Mimotica Micola. “Collections are clean, but not conventional,” said deliveries and introducing new Jackie Brander, owner of Fred Segal Fun in Santa in-season styles is a key strategy Monica, Calif., adding that skinny jeans were fi nally a to drive group sales.” commercial success at her store. G-Star has increased its sales “There is a return to the basics with elegant, simple by 35 percent year-on-year. silhouettes,” Brander added as she placed orders with According to Kraaijeveld, raw France’s American Vintage, Dutch contemporary brand denim looks and discrete brand- Dept and Canada’s Plain Jane Couture, among others. ing will be the main fashion mes- Brander noted she would sell exclusively in the U.S. sages for fall, along with unique the debut fashion and accessories collection of Smiley, touches. “We’ve integrated clean- pecially Scandinavian labels, pioneers of the founder of the Smiley face logo. er, more mature looks into the superslim styles, are up on the latest fi ts. “The season is about sobriety, elegance and refi ne- collection,” he said. “The market “The hype is on the skinny, but we see ment with pure lines and subdued silhouettes,” said for denim is extremely competi- the trends moving back to straight, tradi- Grégoire Proffi t, women’s buyer for Galeries Lafayette in tive, so we centered our focus in tional fi ts and raw denim in the future,” France. Proffi t, who said his budget was up from last year, a smart way on smarter-looking said Palle Stenberg, president of Nudie said that he would reserve between 15 percent and 20 denim.” G-Star also unveiled its Jeans, based in Gothenburg, Sweden. The percent for replenishments and new in-season products. debut footwear line, G-Star Raw brand’s jeans retail at 99 to 150 euros, or “Cruise collections or in-season collections were Footwear. about $130 to $195. once considered elitist, but today it’s no longer snob- Levi’s Europe is cleaning up Stenberg said the Japanese denim market bery but a necessity for young brands,” explained David its act for fall. The brand’s Levi’s was, of course, tuned into the latest styles. Pariente, president of Paris label American Retro. Blue line boasts elegant cuts in In fact, Nudie Jeans will inaugurate its fi rst With the launch of Zoe’s Tee’s last October in Paris, rigid, dark, unwashed denim with an industrial-chic fl agships in Stockholm and Tokyo in March. the entrepreneurial Pariente, who is the son of Gérard feel. “The stores will give the brand a window which will Pariente, president of French fast-fashion retailer Naf “Rigid jeans are our bread and butter,” said Miles allow us to build our image and business,” Stenberg said. Naf, presented yet another fashion line at the show. Johnson, senior designer at Levi’s Europe, noting Premium denim lines such as France’s Atelier de la Dubbed Zoé’s Cash, the collection offers a selection of square cuts around the hips, skinny denim with ultra- Durance and budding Intoxica, of Amsterdam, contin- cashmere tops and comfortable dresses and leggings high waists and androgynous denim styles for women ued to offer forward-thinking looks using ultrarigid sil- made from ultrafi ne cashmeres in soft colors and retails would be key features of fall wardrobes. houettes and Japanese selvage denim. for around 300 euros, or $390. “We are moving into sportswear couture,” agreed You “The collection was inspired by the industrial revo- Buyers from across Europe, especially Spanish, Nguyen, senior vice president of Levi’s product for Levi lution and how it boosted a new wave of creation,” said German, Italian and British ones, attended the show. Strauss Europe. Kentroy Yearwood, creative director and co-owner of And while a dearth of American and Japanese buyers When it comes to trends, Northern European and es- Intoxica, which presented its fi rst high-end women’s wear collection at the show. Prices range from 110 euros A style A look by to 116 euros, or $143 to $150.80, at wholesale for denim. from Smiley. Yearwood, who pinch hits as a professor of fashion design Intoxica. at the Kolding design school in Denmark, added special elements to his collection such as a 19th-century inspired denim cape and elegant, slim-fi tting denim vests. Sportswear brands are also opting for unique touches and cleaner fi ts for fall. Take Aem’Kei, based in Berlin, which boasts a more elegant take on sportswear as the key direction for next winter. “Younger populations are going away from the streetwear trends,” said Markus Klosseck, president of the label. According to Klosseck, trendy girls today are no longer prepared to suffer for fashion. “Comfort is a key issue today,” he said. Comfortable sportswear and loungewear stood out at the show as part of an underlying comfortable lei- sure trend. France’s American Vintage and Germany’s Schiesser innerwear collection were favorites among retailers, and Spanish designer Davidelfi n launched his new line, DA Davidelfi n, a sports couture line, a 100 percent cotton collection of sweatshirts and T-shirts for men and women. The well-being message at the show certainly was evi- dent at Smiley, the Seventies brand behind the famous Smiley face T-shirts. “We are launching our fi rst fashion and accessories lines,” said Nicolas Loufrani, chief executive offi cer and son of Smiley’s founder, Franklin Loufrani. The line boasts a selection of cashmere knits equipped with stitched, Swarovski crystal-studded or gold-threaded Smiley faces for around 110 euros, or $143, at wholesale for men and women. Dresses, denim and a full jewelry collection round out the women’s col- lection. “We’ve repositioned a logo that everyone knows and put it into a more fashionable environment,” said Loufrani. “The fashion line has been very successful because our clients haven’t forgotten the pleasant mood A fall look by Levi’s. behind the brand.” Juniors Young Contemporary Contemporary Women’s Sportswear & Dresses Casual Lifestyle

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Kooba’s The Dressy Side of Kimora self-belted cashmere sweater and By Julee Greenberg leather duffel bag. MITRA ROBERT PHOTOS BY NEW YORK — Kimora Lee Simmons is all grown up, and so is her new high-end contemporary sportswear line, called KLS, launching for fall retailing. The creative director of Baby Phat, the junior line that has been a strong performer at retail in recent years, is try- ing her hand at a new base of customers with KLS. “She is a lady, more grown up and mature; she has a job and just wants to look fabulous wherever she goes,” Simmons explained of the KLS customer. “The Baby Phat girl also wants to look fabulous, but in a more casual way.” As to be expected from hip-hop’s fi rst lady of fashion, KLS is anything but basic — with dramatic tailored jackets, trenchcoats accented with heavy gold buttons, wool fi shtail skirts, jeans covered in fl ocked gold etching and real fur boleros found within the line. There also are silk chiffon She is a lady, more grown up and“ mature; she has a job and just wants to look fabulous. — Kimora” Lee Simmons ruffl ed blouses, crystal-encrusted T-shirts and jersey eve- ning gowns adorned with plenty of the shiniest stones. The fi rst KLS collection, Simmons said, is inspired by Russia and her personal collection of Fabergé eggs. “Think of the hottest, most fabulous Fabergé egg, like the ones that I have at home,” she said. “That’s this line.” Simmons is confi dent about the collection as she thumbs Kooba Brand Adds through a rack in her corner offi ce on the top fl oor of 512 Seventh Avenue here. She points out tiny details, such as the gold rope piping on a skirt and the wool blend Apparel to Handbags fabric she chose for a trenchcoat. She began working A model (with Simba, one of on the line about a year ago and because of her experi- Simmons’ fi ve dogs) wears a NEW YORK — Abby Held has more than ence with Baby Phat, she was clear about the direction metallic wool skirt and jacket just handbags on her mind. she wanted to take with KLS. with a crystal-encrusted T-shirt Held, the owner and designer of Kooba, Simmons rises from her desk chair (which looks from the new KLS collection. is introducing a collection of contemporary more like a bright pink throne, complete with an em- tops for fall. Kooba launched in 1998 and broidered Baby Phat cat logo), with a Tiffany & Co. THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOS BY now Held said she is closer to completely glass of Champagne in hand and goes over to fi x outfi tting the Kooba customer — starting some minor details on the model’s look. The new line, which Simmons said will be with the top. “I have 10 times more tummy than you do,” she geared to high-end specialty retailers, will “When I started the bags, the idea came joked loudly with the model. “But that’s OK. I’ve fi rst be seen on the runway on Friday evening from the fact that I couldn’t fi nd exactly had two kids. How many have you had?” at the company’s fashion show at Roseland what I wanted in a bag,” she said. “I saw Ballroom here. Simmons said showgoers will a need in the market. So, it’s a bit of the be able to tell the difference between Baby same with the clothing. I wanted items like Kimora Lee Phat and KLS immediately, as the more ca- these, and I couldn’t fi nd them.” Simmons in sual pieces will be from Baby Phat and the A self-proclaimed fan of the casual her offi ce more elaborate and tailored pieces will be jeans and T-shirt look, Held wanted a little on Tuesday. from KLS — and, she vowed, everything seen something to spruce up her style. So the Right: A on the runway will go into production. Kooba tops line consists of chunky and wool tweed “This is something we have been dis- fi ne cashmere sweaters and leather jack- evening cussing in-house a lot lately,” she said. ets. The sweaters are all either trimmed in gown. “And we decided it was best to create leather or come with a leather belt and the pieces for the runway that can be pro- jackets all have snaps or buckles that mir- duced, it’s very important.” ror elements of the bag collection. The fi rst KLS line will be available to “They are pieces that fi nish you off, buyers beginning Feb. 20, when it will ex- but add that unique item to the look,” hibit at the Fashion Coterie trade show. she said. Company executives at the Kellwood Held said she is targeting Co.-owned Phat Fashions, the parent high-end specialty and de- company for Baby Phat, Phat Farm and partment stores with the KLS, declined to give fi rst-year sales tops collection, which expectations. The KLS collection whole- wholesales from $100 sales from $67.50 to $300. to $500. While Held de- Last March, Simmons launched the KLS clined to give fi rst-year cosmetics collection, which is available at sales expectations for the Sephora stores. After not being able to fi nd line, she said the bags a corporate partner to produce the beauty are sold in more collection, she decided to do it herself. than 400 stores “It’s a youthful line, a little trendy, al- nationwide. Held though we’re not a slave to the trends. We said she will be embrace them and interpret them for our- launching more selves,” said Simmons at the time of the products, seeing beauty launch. “The colors are very sheer shoes and home and easy to use. This line is about enhanc- in her future. ing your natural beauty, not hiding it.” She said she In addition to cosmetics and apparel, also hopes to Simmons said she will launch more product add more to categories to make KLS a full lifestyle brand. her new men’s While she hasn’t signed on with any licensing accessories partners yet, she hopes to add handbags, linge- line, which just rie and jewelry to the assortment. bowed at retail. “Over time, it will grow a lot,” she said. — J.G. “Similar to the way we grew Baby Phat over Kooba’s belted ▲ time. When I think of my brands, I see the leather jacket. overall picture, with all of the elements to make it a lifestyle.” WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 1, 2007 11 WWD.COM Lauren, J.C. Penney Team Up for New Brand

Continued from page one American Living will initially be tomers to endorse the reason they cur- deal for Global Brand Concepts, which launched at Penney’s so-called A and rently shop with us, and for new custom- Polo Ralph Lauren formed earlier this B stores, its 600 top doors that are over ers,” said Ullman. month to develop lifestyle brands in ex- 100,000 square feet in size. The collec- He added that he did not envision clusive partnerships with department tions also will be available in its cata- American Living launching into beauty, and specialty stores without any brand logue and e-commerce site, jcp.com. “We pointing to the Sephora arrangement as reference to Ralph Lauren or his luxury do a lot of consumer research and feel Penney’s beauty business. empire. Global Brand Concepts will de- that this is a unique opportunity for us,” Polo will be responsible for develop- velop American Living from soup to nuts, Ullman said. “It will be the largest brand ing the marketing and advertising for including its design, production, market- we ever launched.” American Living. It will also be in charge ing and advertising. The $18.7 billion Penney’s has fi ve pri- of the imaging, such as signage, though Ullman said it was too early for specif- ics, and indicated that Penney’s would We stand for style and high quality at a smart work closely with Global Brand Concepts “ on such details to make sure they corre- price, and we also feel we should have things spond with Penney’s overall mix. The American Living collection will be that are distinctive for customers to endorse the merchandised across the store’s depart- ments, though at the time of discussing the reason they currently shop with us . launch of Global Brand Concepts, Ralph ” Lauren indicated such arrangements could develop into in-store concepts, too. — Myron Ullman 3rd, J.C. Penney Ullman noted it was premature to dis- cuss the footprint of the brand, where Details of the payment terms between vate brands that do $1 billion each a year. exactly it would fi t on the sales fl oor and Penney’s and Polo were not revealed. Ullman knows his new partners well: whose real estate it would replace, other According to Myron E. Ullman 3rd He served on Polo’s board from February than to say, “It will clearly be at impor- Penney’s chairman and chief executive 2004 until February 2006, when he resigned tant stations to the store. offi cer, American Living will be one of because of his commitments at Penney’s, “It’s an exclusive brand,” he contin- the key brands in the retailer’s future, which he joined in 2004. He is also said to ued. “We think this is going to be very and the company is currently in the early have known Ralph Lauren for decades. strategy of exclusivity that Ullman has important. We feel that with the success stages of planning an impactful presenta- “Their track record of understanding been striving for since he arrived at and track record for Polo Ralph Lauren, tion across its selling fl oors. a target consumer and building around Penney’s. The retailer now offers exclu- and the opportunity we identifi ed in our “The Polo Ralph Lauren group has that lifestyle and being able to market, sive lines such as Nicole by Nicole Miller, consumer research for their traditional decided that they are willing to establish advertise and articulate something that Bisou Bisou, Chris Madden and Solitude and classic customer across the catego- a comprehensive lifestyle brand across resonates with the customer is very at- by Shaun Thomson, as well as in-house ries, it will be the largest brand we ever our entire store, in many categories, and tractive to us,” Ullman said. brands like St. John’s Bay, Arizona Jean Co., launched, whether it be private or exclu- be involved in the marketing, advertising Few details of the brand and its de- Worthington, a.n.a and Stafford. Ullman sive or a national brand.” and developing of the brands along the signs are available at this point. American has also partnered with Sephora to install Ullman remained tight-lipped about traditional classic lifestyle opportunity Living will target the chain’s traditional Sephora shops-in-shops in Penney’s units, sales projections for American Living, that we saw,” said Ullman, in a telephone and classic customer, and is expected to and, last October, struck an exclusive deal and said, “We will let the customer vote, interview from Disneyland, where he was have a country store-Americana feel, per- with Liz Claiborne Inc. to launch Liz & Co. but we are quite optimistic about the po- vacationing with his family. “Polo Ralph haps even culling inspiration from the for women and Concepts by Claiborne for tential of the brand. Lauren has had the American Living sensibility of an all-American dry goods men throughout the retailer’s stores, cata- “We are quite confi dent,” he added. “I trademark for some time, and the feeling store. Ullman said the brand would be at logues and online. Those collections are have known and had an affection for the was that they were prepared, having been the “best price point of what we offer,” hitting Penney’s stores now. [Polo] group for some time. I think it will so successful in everything else they ac- and called it an “aspirational brand” in “We stand for style and high quality at be a distinctive offering that is a targeted complished, and the timing was right to the Penney’s portfolio. a smart price, and we also feel we should lifestyle segment that we think is under- take on a brand of this size and scope.” American Living fi ts in well with the have things that are distinctive for cus- represented in our assortment.”

addition to Sanders’ increasingly crowded ANOTHER DAY, ANOTHER EDITOR: The give more editorial focus to upscale luxury mantle. Wired won gold, given to both revolving door at Men’s Journal brought lifestyle as Best Life and Men’s Vogue publisher Jay Lauf and vice president and in yet another editor on Tuesday: James grow in popularity. It will also shrink its MEMO PAD publishing director Drew Schutte. Silver went Kaminsky, who moved from his position as trim size effective with its May issue to a to Allure, where Nancy Berger Cardone has deputy managing editor of Rolling Stone standard format like that of GQ and now OVERSIGHT: Bill Wackermann wasn’t feeling boosted ad pages four years in a row, and to replace editor Tom Foster. Foster’s abrupt Details. Schenck said the move came so the love Tuesday night during Condé Nast’s Vogue won bronze, reemphasizing how well exit comes just over a year into his tenure, advertisers won’t need to resize their ads annual publisher’s meeting in Naples, the company’s franchise player performed where he reported to editor in chief Jann for placement. — S.D.S. Fla. After the Glamour vice president and as it spun off two other titles, Men’s Vogue Wenner. “I spent most of the past seven publisher was passed over for Publisher of and Vogue Living, while simultaneously years there. I had a chance to work on TIME’S UP: Time Warner Inc. reported the Year last year in favor of Gina Sanders, growing the fl agship’s bottom line. that magazine at every different level from its fourth-quarter and full-year earnings Teen Vogue’s vice president and publisher, Townsend also gave out awards for intern all the way up,” Foster told WWD. results Wednesday and while revenue Wackermann was considered one of this Corporate Executive of the Year to Julie “It was a great experience, but it was time was up 8 percent to $12.4 billion for year’s top contenders. But he was shut out Michalowski, vice president-business to move on.” the quarter and increased 4 percent for from any awards given to executives for development, and a Special Recognition That said, Men’s Journal has run the year to $44.2 billion, the company’s stellar performance. Insiders were abuzz award to Suzanne Grimes, senior vice president, through fi ve editors in six years, and publishing side, Time Inc., experienced a Wednesday morning at Wackermann’s corporate sales. — Stephanie D. Smith it’s no secret Jann Wenner has removed decline of 1 percent, for both the fourth obvious shutout, some calling the move a both editors and publishers at a whim quarter and full year. Wayne Pace, executive “complete diss.” CRIES AND WHISPERS: Better known as without notice. (Coincidentally, Foster vice president and chief fi nancial offi cer, According to sources, Condé Nast a favored spot of magazine editors, told attendees at a Mediabistro panel on explained the decrease can be attributed chief executive offi cer Chuck Townsend Manhattan’s East Side restaurant Patroon Monday that living in fear of getting fi red to lower revenue at its domestic magazines emphasized the awards went beyond an lent a table to two retirees from the Bush “keeps the adrenaline pumping.”) and the closure of Teen People. However, executive’s growth in terms of dollars, but administration on Wednesday. Former Men’s Journal’s newsstand has been weak he said the sector was offset by higher also were given to those who best refl ect White House press secretary Ari Fleischer during Foster’s tenure, falling 31.5 percent online advertising revenue. the company’s values. Publisher of the Year kept former U.S. ambassador to the United in the fi rst half of the year, according to the Time Inc.’s subscriptions grew 2 percent honors went to Vogue publishing director Nations John Bolton waiting at a table, Audit Bureau of Circulations. The magazine for the fi nal quarter and lost 1 percent for Tom Florio, as WWD reported Wednesday. whereupon the two caught up about — said the drop was due in large part because the year, while advertising numbers fell 1 Some insiders believed Florio’s win was what, exactly? Fleischer’s recent testimony it discontinued a program that distributed percent for the quarter and grew 2 percent overdue — in fi ve years as publisher under immunity at the Lewis “Scooter” Libby 150,000 promotional copies of its May and for the year. Separately, a senior offi cial of Vogue and 22 years overall with the perjury trial? (The controversial Bolton, December special issues. But the fi rst half added that no further management changes company, this was the fi rst time he’s whose recess appointment ended in also produced newsstand duds, such as the are planned for this year. received the honor. December when it became clear it wouldn’t March issue with Bode Miller on the cover, a Dick Parsons, chairman and chief Wackermann, however, was upbeat be confi rmed, was among New York Times move Foster called his worst mistake as an executive offi cer, said that Time Inc. about Florio’s win. “Tom Florio had an reporter Judith Miller’s jailhouse visitors.) editor at the Monday panel. continues to be the leading magazine amazing year at Vogue and totally deserves Would Bolton perhaps jump ship from For the second half, publisher Will publisher, in terms of readership and the recognition,” he said via e-mail. “Hey, the American Enterprise Institute to join Schenck said the company expects Men’s advertising share. He added that its digital there is always next year.” Fleischer in presumably lucrative consulting Journal’s newsstand to be down about 25 strategy is working and more is in store. Meanwhile, Joe Lagani, vice president gigs? (Bolton did not respond by press time percent, to 85,840, but that compares Parsons reported that people.com is the and publisher for House & Garden, to questions through an assistant.) Reached with the December 2005 period that number-one online celebrity destination, received the Turnaround of the Year by e-mail, Fleischer wrote, “We obviously included the bonus circulation. Without in terms of engagement, with average award. Townsend also gave out awards for used to work together and were catching the bonus circulation, Schenck estimates monthly page views up to 350 million, Top Performances, which more refl ect a up now that we’re both in the private newsstand will fall by 5 percent. “That and tmz.com — a joint venture between magazine’s quantitative strength in terms of sector.” When fi rst contacted by WWD, he said,” added Schenck, “the newsstand AOL and Telepictures Productions — is the ad pages and revenue. Teen Vogue received responded, “Rats, I was hoping you were e- performance is not the reason Jim’s here.” number-one celebrity site in unique visitors the platinum award, the top honor, another mailing me about my clothes.” — Irin Carmon Kaminsky comes as Men’s Journal will per month. — Amy Wicks 12 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 1, 2007 WWD.COM

The palette for designer collections for fall might look like a clash of colors, but the Pantone Color Institute believes the results will be harmonious. TheWWDList “When you see the colors in front of you, you realize that, yes, there is some complexity,” said Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of Pantone, which has provided its ranking of designers’ top 10 color choices for the season. “The complexity is what makes things far more interesting, because designers are mixing different looks — the variety is giving designers the opportunity to be more creative.” Eiseman noted that mixing vibrant colors together with more Fall’s Mixed Palette traditional tones gives an energy to fall collections, but keeps things soft and mysterious as well. “Mixing colors will also let consumers blend tradition with Top 10 Pantone colors chosen by designers for fall 2007. the unexpected.” — Cecily Hall

PANTONE 19-1557 CHILI PEPPER Chosen by 16.7 percent of designers “We all know red is out there,” said Eiseman of Pantone. The momentum really began last year, thanks in part to celebrities and organizations utilizing it as a primary color in its marketing campaigns (think iPod, Motorola and the Gap (Product)Red campaign — a percentage of sales go directly to the Global Fund, to help eliminate AIDS in Africa). “It’s a symbolic color, one of power,” Eiseman said. She noted another importance to 1 the number-one color: the introduction of food and spice into fashion. “If designers are going for a Latin or Thai approach, this color is perfect, as it represents fall’s spicy side.” And, of course, gender-wise, it appeals to men and women. Gustavo Arango opted for a bold red in his collection, saying, “The intensity of the season inspired me — as the temperatures cool and the nights get longer, deeper, richer tones lend a sense of warmth.”

PANTONE 19-4316 STARGAZER 13.6 percent Designers who have worked versions of Stargazer into their fall collections include Yigal Azrouël, Laura Poretzky for Abaeté and Jeff Mahshie for Chaiken who was inspired by “the evolution of the dark palette of last fall, combined with the bold brights from spring.” Stargazer is fall’s 2 answer to navy. Eiseman noted the shade carried a teal quality to it, giving it a quieter take on the color. Because of the teal, “This could also be considered fall’s homage to turquoise, but it goes into a much deeper direction,” she said.

PANTONE 17-0636 GREEN MOSS 12.2 percent This is yet another color that represents a social awareness — it’s refl ective of the environment, Eiseman pointed out. “People understand green much more these days. This is a sophisticated version of the color, and it has a subtle, earthy tone.” It’s also another color that mixes well with others: Eiseman matched it against Cashmere Rose, Dusk and Chili Pepper, as examples. Kai Milla’s ideal mix for fall included neutrals 3 accented by Green Moss, and Carmen Marc Valvo’s prominent colors included warm neutrals mixed with purple and Green Moss, as well.

PANTONE 18-2929 PURPLE WINE 11.7 percent “Purple Wine is one of my personal favorites,” said Eiseman. “Purple really is the most creative color. Not too long ago, people were iffy about the color, but today, even purple suits are fun to wear.” This particular version is a marriage between purple and merlot — hence, the name. Designers are offering plenty of variations on purple, such as Tracy Reese, whose color philosophy is to “use black as an accessory and layer rich 4 and vibrant color around it.” She has opted for versions of Purple Wine, which include magenta and orchid. And Zac Posen’s signature “deep plum tones” mirror that of Purple Wine, as well. Posen’s philosophy for fall: “clean, charming and strong femininity.”

PANTONE 16-2215 CASHMERE ROSE 10.6 percent This version of pink for fall is more of the unexpected, particularly because people may not think of using it in a season like fall. “The name comes from that gorgeous cashmere sweater you love to wear in the fall,” said Eiseman. “There isn’t a color in this ranking that it doesn’t work 5 with — it’s that sweater you can wear with everything.” Catherine Malandrino’s theme, “Schiaparelli’s Shocking Pink meets carefree Zizi Jeanmaire,” incorporates colors such as Cashmere Rose, violet and glossy white.

PANTONE 17-3812 DUSK 9.9 percent The color gray has made a strong statement the past few seasons, especially for 2006, when it was considered a neutral color. “This version is more complex,” said Eiseman. “These interesting undertones of violet make it richer — it’s not your same old gray.” Inspired by “references from the Renaissance,” Douglas Hannant has worked with a rich, sophisticated and quiet palette of colors, which included toned-down berry 6 colors, such as blueberry and raspberry — his take on the Dusk Pantone favorite for fall.

PANTONE 18-1354 BURNT OCHRE 8.2 percent This is fall’s answer to orange, which is a color that has also gained a wider acceptance in recent seasons. “Orange really is a classic for fall, but the difference here is that people can use it with different kinds of color combinations, like with Stargazer or Shale Green,” said Eiseman. 7 Nanette Lepore is mixing this color with plum and charcoal, noting that her inspiration was her own home: “I’ve been decorating and was inspired by rich and warm tones.”

PANTONE 16-6116 SHALE GREEN 6.0 percent “The homage to environmentalism continues,” Eiseman pointed out. “And this version of green is more mysterious — it’s a perfect time of year to show off its darker, murkier side. The shade is ideal for someone who really prefers having a blue or grey tone quality to their green.” Reem 8 Acra stated a color favorite for fall is green: “It can complement so many skin tones,” she said. And Cynthia Rowley, whose inspiration was the aurora borealis, has thrown streaks of the color into her collection, as well.

PANTONE 15-0751 LEMON CURRY 5.6 percent This is yet another example of spice being mixed into the color themes for fall. “Curry is a very strong spice, and the color is a very strong infl uence,” noted Eiseman. She also noted a strong combination: Stargazer mixed with Lemon Curry. “It gives off an exotic feeling.” This is a prominent color for Michael Vollbracht for Bill Blass this season — his other favorites include dull maroon, parrot green and mints mixed with 9 gray and brown.

PANTONE 19-1116 CARAFE 5.5 percent Brown has been a color that took awhile to be accepted, but people continue to experiment with versions of it — “people have invested in brown, so it makes sense to see it so popular. It’s a great background color,” said Eiseman. She pointed out that the tone adds a rich contrast against a 10 lighter, airier color, such as Cashmere Rose. Designers such as Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors and Badgley Mischka have all incorporated brown into their fall collections. And one of Kai Milla’s aforementioned “neutrals” includes espresso brown — her version of Pantone’s Carafe.

SOURCE: PANTONE FASHION COLOR REPORT FALL 2007; PANTONE COLORS DISPLAYED HERE MAY NOT MATCH PANTONE®-IDENTIFIED STANDARDS; CONSULT CURRENT PANTONE FOR FASHION AND HOME COLOR SYSTEM PUBLICATIONS FOR ACCURATE COLOR; PANTONE® AND OTHER PANTONE INC. TRADEMARKS ARE THE PROPERTY OF PANTONE INC.; © PANTONE INC., 2007 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 1, 2007 13 WWD.COM Cynthia Steffe Bush Seeks Trade Promotion Authority Extension By Kristi Ellis needs to reject protectionism and to superfi cial review of trade agreements Taps President keep this economy open to the tremen- instead of engaging in close scrutiny.” resident Bush asked Congress on dous opportunities that the world has to Importers seeking more market-open- By Julee Greenberg PWednesday to extend his ability to offer.” ing expansion overseas support the ex- make trade deals without amendments Key Democratic leaders said they tension. NEW YORK — Stacey DiPersia has joined from lawmakers, and Treasury Secretary are willing to work with Republicans on “This authority is extremely impor- Cynthia Steffe Inc. as president of the brand. Henry M. Paulson Jr. defended the ad- an extension, but cautioned they expect tant to expedite free trade agreements She replaces Richard Roberts, Cynthia ministration’s fi scal and trade policies something in return. and allow negotiators to operate ef- Steffe’s husband, who left the fi rm with Steffe with China. Rep. Charles Rangel (D., N.Y.), fectively,” Kevin Burke, president and in December when the designer parted ways Speaking at Federal Hall on chairman of the House Ways and chief executive offi cer of the American with the brand’s parent, Bernard Chaus Inc., Wall Street, the President em- Means Committee, and Sen. Apparel & Footwear Association, said after three years. Chaus purchased Steffe’s phasized job creation, the Max Baucus (D., Mont.), in a statement. “Complex international fi rm from LF Brands, which had folded, for strength of the economy chairman of the Senate trade agreements cannot be renegotiated an estimated $5 million in January 2004. and the benefi ts of global Finance Committee, is- after the fact by the U.S. Congress.” “The opportunity came up and I sim- trade in a “State of the sued a statement urging Julia Hughes, vice president of inter- ply couldn’t pass it up,” DiPersia said on Economy’’ address. legislative changes that national trade at the U.S. Association of Wednesday. “I see this as a very exciting “At this moment, “ensure job creation,” Importers of Textiles & Apparel, said, time for the company and I think that my the most promising op- stronger trade enforce- “TPA is really the status quo now for ap- taste level and experience in the industry portunity to expand ment, Congressional proval of all major trade legislation. It will bring a lot to the table.” free and fair trade is consultations and doesn’t prevent debate. TPA has worked She said there would be no immediate by concluding the Doha stronger labor and en- to maintain the integrity of negotiations. changes at the fi rm. Round at the World Trade vironmental provisions Congress still has the latitude to request DiPersia joined Steffe on Monday from Organization,” Bush said, in trade agreements. and press for other changes in the imple- Generra, where she had been president referring to negotiations in- President Bush “Trade negotiating au- menting legislation.” since November 2005. At Steffe, DiPersia tended to open markets. “Global thority is a valuable tool for On Capitol Hill, senators grilled Paul- is overseeing operations, product devel- trade talks like Doha have the po- the administration, but it requires son on China and the administration’s opment, merchandising and sales. She re- tential to lower trade barriers all around a great deal of trust and Congress must overall trade policies at a Senate Banking, ports to Josephine Chaus, chief executive the world.” have some key assurances before it is Housing & Urban Affairs Committee. offi cer of Bernard Chaus. Bush said the only way to “complete willing to extend this leverage,” Rangel “The Chinese do not get it,” said Sen. Before Generra, DiPersia was senior vice Doha and make headway on other trade said in the statement. Jim Bunning (R., Ky.). “All the jawbon- president of merchandising and product de- agreements is to extend” the trade ne- Many in the textile industry, which ing and talking that you are doing with velopment at Donna Karan International. gotiating authority, but he acknowl- has suffered huge job losses in the past the Chinese is not going to affect one Even without Steffe and Roberts at the edged the political battle ahead. two decades as apparel manufacturing iota that steelworker in Alabama or in helm, Chaus plans to increase the Steffe The President’s Trade Promotion Au- moved offshore, called for a rejection of Indiana who is complaining to us about business from what industry sources esti- thority expires June 30, setting the stage the extension. unfair practices of the Chinese-regulat- mate is a $24 million wholesale operation. for a battle on Capitol Hill over what Pointing to the three million manu- ed government in relation to our open The fi rm will showcase the fall line, the fi rst Democrats might seek in exchange for an facturing jobs that have been lost since government.” without Steffe’s involvement, in a fashion extension. 2001, Auggie Tantillo, executive director Paulson, touting the Strategic Eco- show on Tuesday at Exit Art here. The com- “I know there’s going to be a vigor- of the American Manufacturing Trade nomic Dialogue he helped establish with pany has not named a new creative director, ous debate on trade, and bashing trade Action Coalition, said in a statement that Chinese offi cials last year, reiterated his but executives confi rmed the fall line was de- can make for good sound bites on the Trade Promotion Authority “is the blank stance that dialogue, not punitive mea- signed by the Steffe design team with the aid evening news,” Bush said. “But walling check Congress gives to the executive sures, would prod the Chinese to reform of Waleed Khairzada, a design consultant. off America from world trade would be branch to offshore entire U.S. industries. their currency policies and make long-

PHOTO BY AP PHOTO/GERALD HERBERT AP PHOTO/GERALD PHOTO BY a disaster for our economy. Congress Under TPA, Congress restricts itself to a term structural economic changes.

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Showrooms & Lofts Fast growing high-end contemporary brand has 2 exciting opportunities. BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Sr. Manager Fabric R & D requirements : Great ’New’ Office Space Avail €Seasonal fabric research for wovens, knits, yarns & trim. ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 eFashionSolutions, a fast growing €Color management - evaluating color standard & lab dip approval from eCommerce company managing concept to production. entire online retail operations for €Must be computer skilled, organized, have excellent follow up & strong branded fashion apparel clients, communication skills. w/established mill relations apparel retailers & entertainment €Min 5-7 yrs exp in the contemporary market companies. Our clients are among €High taste level a must. the most recognized in the industry Sr. Woven Technical Designer requirements : and include Baby Phat, Rocawear, €Ability to fit on a live model & conduct fittings with creative director Apple Bottoms & DKNY. €Excellent understanding of pattern making, garment construction & Immediate Openings: PATTERN/SAMPLES apparel manufacturing (factory exp +) Planner: Create/maintain OTB incl Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast €Strong communication skills to work with overseas manufacturers & forecasting all retail metrics, inventory, work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 good computer skills to work with tech packages. sales, returns, markdown, receipts, PATTERNS, SAMPLES, €Min 5-8 yrs exp with tailored garments, sportswear & dresses - margin & turnover; 7-10 yrs planning PRODUCTIONS contemporary market experience preferred. exp in retail environment; Excel req. All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. E-mail resumes to : [email protected] Sr Web Designer: Designs user Call Sherry 212-719-0622. (Pls list job title in subject ) interfaces for e-commence web PATTERNS, SAMPLES, sites, promo emails, interactive ad- DESIGNER vertising & artwork; expert knowledge PRODUCTIONS DESIGNER of Adobe/ Macromedia Suites; HMTL, Full service shop to the trade. South Florida Handbag Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. 525 america Company Seeks Product dHMTL & web browser capabilities; Contemporary knitwear co seeks exp’d top tier agcy and/or luxury online PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD creative talent to join its design team. Development Designer Must have technical knowledge, exp in Candidate will develop product line. fashion brand exp a plus; BA or High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- Must be detail oriented team player, sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 spec, grading, fitting with overseas/ equiv in design/media. Freelancers domestic production. Great opportunity have flair for fashion and head for in fast paced environment. business. Willing to travel a lot, know considered. Must submit portfolio. Fax resume to 212-921-5069 Illustrator, Photoshop, MS, have great Full benefits package & competitive Attn: Marianne communication skills. Exp w/ catalogs and marketing helpful. Required: BS salary. For consideration, email in business or fashion & min 2 yrs your resume & salary history to: Designer Assistant work exp. Salary commensurate with Organized, strong communication & education & exp. Please fax or email [email protected] follow-up skills. Good team player. resume & references to 954-920-3312 Knowledge of Adobe Photoshop, Illus- or [email protected] trator, Microsoft Word & Office. Prod’n Coord $45-$65K Production Manager E-mail: [email protected] Men’s apparel importer (Nassau Coun ty) Sourcing, Time’n Action, Calendar seeks exp’d prod mgr with min 2 yrs Missy Dress Designer Administrative Asst. Designer - Urban [email protected] 212-947-3400 Multi-Task, MS Office a must. Lite Designer S. NJ urban clothing co seeks designer exp in mens’ specs and fittings. Must Est’d Dress mfr seeks a high energy bookkeeping. 1 person office. (F): 212- ASSOCIATE DESIGNER w/ strong bkgd working w/ imports. 3-5 be hard worker, detail oriented with self-motivated creative Missy 244-6342 (E): [email protected] years exp designing Jr/Urban clothing Production Coordinator top computer skills - Excel a must. Established, fast-paced private label for ladies. Please send resume to: Candidate needs to have 3-5 yrs min. Email/fax your resume: 516-621-2251 Dress Designer with 2-5 years ex- Administrator/ company is looking for an associate [email protected] production experience in knits, solid [email protected] perience. Detailed and organized, level designer w/ a degree in Fashion knowledge of buying fabric, screen import export knowledge a plus. Design. Must be able to work Design print quality and overall garment Production Associate Receptionist/Admin $33K Experienced in Women’s Apparel. independently, possess great follow construction working with tech Competitive salary and benefits. through skills, and have the ability to HEAD OF packages. This person will work with Computer and Excel exp required. Highly organized & detail oriented, ex- Handle UPS and FedEx packages. Fax resume to 212-869-3922 or cellent follow-up & proficient computer flat sketch & illustrate. The ideal APPAREL DESIGN Central American factories and direct E-mail [email protected] candidate will have experience in import packages. Candidate must be Raskin Executive Search skills. Order entry, maintaining pro- Kidrobot (creator / retailer ltd edition Fax:732-536-4770 Email: [email protected] duction info in the Company Database. both wovens and knits, with a focus toys / apparel) seeks director of apparel detail oriented and have strong follow CAD/ Photoshop/ Illustrator a plus. on print/embroidery development. div to create & release a full apparel up skills. Must be proficient in Microsoft Fax or E-mail resume to: (646) 291-1201 Proficiency in Illustrator and Access. Salary is based upon experience. line. Bkgd in streetwear, designer Sales Rep - Toddler or [email protected] Photoshop required. fashion, sportswear req. 7+ yrs fashion Please Fax resume to 212-971-2254 or Fax resume Attn:MAS (212) 302-1856 Email to: [email protected] 3 to 5 years exp. Design design, mfg, line mgmt exp. Proven Specialty or Dept. stores Designer leadership, design, organization, Illus- [email protected] Associate Designer trator skills. Email cover letter and Sweater & Knit Co. seeks private label resume to [email protected] Technical Designer designer w/ 3+ years exp in sweaters. ASST. DESIGNER PRODUCTION SAMPLE MAKER Sweater & Knit Co. seeks missy tech Must be spec proficient w/ strong CAD Major sportswear co. located in NYC DESIGN designer w/ 4+ years exp. Req’d COORDINATOR Established eveningwear firm patternmaking exp., grading & strong sketching skills in Color Matters soft- seeks an assistant designer. Must have Technical Asst. Designer Growing L.I. based sportswear co. seeks seeks experienced sample maker. ware. Email resumes w/ salary require- communications skills in spec fit cor- exp with CAD, knowledge of domestic Major woman’s outerwear co. seeks experienced, detail oriented individual FAX RESUME TO : 212-658-9416 rections. Computer Excel exp a must. ments to [email protected]. Technical Asst. to designer on production to handle off shore production, manage fabric market, efficient as illustrator, SOURCING MANAGER /to $200k Email resumes w/ salary requirements level. Highly organized, Knowledge of multiple factories & coordinate production to: [email protected] Design Director and develop spec sheets. Competitive garment construction, patterns & specs, first through final. Will have daily cor- For major NYC based apparel co. B2X, an importer / manufacturer with salary and benefits. Email resumes to: fabric & trim approval, etc. Overseas respondence & follow up with factories & Young men’s division for Streetwear & Urban lines (tops, bottoms, fleece, a strong Chinese production base has [email protected] communication & follow-up, excellent maintain wip report. Excellent Excel skills, a 100K position open for a talented computer skills. Please send resume to: Aria a plus. Please email resumes to: Fr. terry etc) Req: Must have network design director in the Junior or Missy E-mail: [email protected] [email protected] of factories in place (varied price pts.) markets. Exp working with Chinese DESIGNER or Fax: (212) 764-7057 in Asia, w/ special relationships to factories is a plus. Please e-mail Children’s Wear Company looking for handle preprod. samples etc. resume to: [email protected] creative (7-16) “Tween” designer. Highly E-mail resume: [email protected] motivated and trendy. Proficient in FABRIC COORDINATOR Fax 917-591-2521 Ph: 914-337-3660 Technical Design Photoshop + Illustrator. Three years Growing L.I. sportswear co. seeks ex- OUTERWEAR perienced, detailed oriented individual Production Coordinator Branded, well est’d. Apparel Mfr. seeks experience a must. Lg Childrenswear co seeks person w/2- Tech Designer $65-75K Current exp in Please send resume to: 212-465-1085 to handle all production, fabric purchas- Technical person with 5 years minimum ing, receiving & follow up. Will maintain 3 yrs exp to follow up with Wal-Mart & full fashion sweaters & knits. Must experience in patternmaking, fabrics, delivery schedule and communication Federated Accts & overseas factories. hang w/ designer labels. Tahari, RLauren, construction, specs, and production. DESIGNER • Denim daily with vendors. Computer experi- Must be Familiar w/ CTL approval pro- Vera Wang etc. [email protected] Must be organized, able to communicate Major Denim Apparel Co. seeks exp’d. ence a must, Aria a plus. Please e-mail cedures. Bilingual in Chinese / English daily w/factories, work well under pres- Jr. Denim Designer. with a minimum of resumes to: [email protected] prefd. Fax: (212) 967-8631 attn:RL sure, and possess strong Word & Excel TECHNICAL DESIGNER skills. Fax resume to Jodi: 212-997-9188 3 - 5 years experience in denim. E-mail Missy moderate sportswear / NY office resume to Sari at: [email protected] FASHION FACULTY needs detail oriented person in a fast Private College seeks faculty for paced environment with 2-3 years exp. DESIGNER Fashion Program. Ph.D Degree preferred, in garment fitting. Must be proficient Est’d missy sweater/knit importer seeks Master’s degree required, along with Production Manager in sketching, measuring and grading. creative designer to work in fast paced significant industry exp. Knowledge of Fast paced 7th Ave. PL & branded ladies Communicate changes/corrections to TRAFFIC ASSISTANT environment. Must be detail oriented, textiles, product development, buying, separates company looking for qualified NY based agent in a precise and timely Leading midtown garment importer work independently & take direction visual merchandising, merchandise Production Manager. Detailed oriented, manner for overseas interpretation. seeks an Import Clerk with some well. Technical skills & min 3 yrs. exp. planning and control. Send resume to: good communication skills, knit and Knowledge of wovens and knits. Salary experience. Full benefits. Please fax req’d. Excellent oppty for the right FASHION SEARCH woven sourcing experience all a must. commensurate with exp. resume to: (212) 869-8961 person! Fax resume to: (212) 302.5184 Send resume with Sal req. to E-mail resume to: [email protected] or Call Lisa: (212) 302-3744 or E-mail Berkeley College [email protected] or Fax: (509) 757-7084 [email protected] 44 Rifle Camp Road West Paterson, NJ 07424 Designer Fax: 973-278-0080 Email: [email protected] Jr. U4ia CAD Designer EQUAL OPPORTUNITY EMPLOYMENT fi nancial Fast paced high energy Women’s suppliers Apparel Co. seeks Jr. U4ia CAD artist GRAPHIC ARTIST/to $65k w/ min 1-2 yrs exp. Candidate must be For NYC company. Young Men’s mod- services able to reduce, clean, recolor prints ern Streetwear & Urban lines. Req: 3+ real estate and color match. Must posses strong yrs. relevant expr w/ strong creativity, Our readers live for fashion… organizational skills. Great opportunity Illustrator /Photoshop. and excellent benefits package. Pls E-mail resume: [email protected] vendors recruitment but they still need to meet E-mail resume: [email protected] Fax 917-591-2521 Ph: 914-337-3660 their budgets. JUNIOR TECH DESIGNER - $55K DESIGNER Activewear - 3 to 5 years exp. Leading Dress Co. seeks a Designer or a tech packs, approvals, fit business services credentialed Assistant to design dresses [email protected] and separates for expanding business. Fax resume to: 212-268-6838 opportunities Designer or Associate - Swimwear Girls 7-16 or Junior LAWYER Illustrator Computer - Great Company A boutique NYC law practice in the Call (212)643-8090 Fax (212)643-8127 AGCY fashion / creative industries is seeking connections an ASSOCIATE ATTORNEY. 4+ years DESIGNER transactional experience in trademark, Advertise in WWD, DNR and FN at a special rate and reach a Private Label Division of major corporate, employment, some litigation, sportswear co. located in NYC seeks an immigration a plus. Top credentials req’d. unique audience of professionals across the women’s, men’s and experienced designer. Must have min. Contact: [email protected] 3 years experience, knowledge of footwear industries. Call 800-423-3314 or e-mail domestic fabric market,efficient as illustrator, communicate with overseas PATTERNMAKER fpclassifi [email protected] factories and develop spec sheets. Jonden Knit Sportwear Co. seeks exp. to advertise. Competitive salary and benefit. Email person, Bklyn warehouse. Gerber Call 800-423-3314 or e-mail fpclassifi [email protected] to advertise. resume to: [email protected] skills a plus. Fax: (718) 369-4927. WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 1, 2007 15 WWD.COM Victoria’s Secret Direct’s Hue, Tracy Reese Collaborate on Guest Designer Line New Platform for Growth By Sophia Chabbott By Denise Power egwear makers typically find them- ictoria’s Secret Direct will adopt a Lselves in limbo during fashion week. Vnew electronic commerce platform Even though tights and leggings were with personalization and interactive fea- a ubiquitous presence on last fall’s run- tures that promise double-digit, top-line ways, the brands often go unrecognized. sales growth. In a bid to get the attention of buyers and Sharen Jester Turney, Victoria’s Secret editors, Hue, the Kayser-Roth-owned president and chief executive offi cer, said hosiery fi rm, has tapped contemporary Hue by the shift from a 15-year-old, home-grown designer Tracy Reese as a partner for its Tracy system to a service delivered by n2N new Guest Designer Collection. Reese Commerce will unburden technology staff, Reese is the first in what Hue legwear. reduce costs and provide access to inno- hopes to be a long string of designers vations that bring the merchant closer to who will create limited-edition ho- shoppers. siery collections. The company also is Victoria’s Secret Direct is the fi rst cus- in talks with two other designers for tomer of n2N Commerce of Cambridge, spring 2008, and there is discussion of Mass., a start-up fi rm that Limited Brands expanding the program to include cat- helped launch on Wednesday. Limited egories such as sleepwear. Brands Inc., together with General Hue isn’t the fi rst to partner with a Catalyst Partners of Cambridge, Mass., designer for an exclusive collection. Last provided $30 million in fi nancing to n2N year, Wolford, the 56-year-old Austrian Commerce. luxury hosiery and bodywear maker, MITRA ROBERT LEGWEAR PHOTO BY “We absolutely see this as an opportu- signed agreements with fashion houses Missoni, Kenzo, wear category. Our vision is to continue to do a guest de- nity to fuel the momentum” the brand has Antonio Berardi and Zac Posen for exclusive collections. signer program for each season.” seen in the last year, Turney told WWD. Reese designed six Hue by Tracy Reese styles to coordi- The tights are basics with a twist featuring styles such She said the enhanced customer experi- nate with her fall 2007 col- as a sheer navy tight with opaque dots or an opaque tight in ence represents a top-line sales growth A sketch lection, which will make its brown with a gray lace tuxedo stripe down the side. opportunity “in the very high teens.” from runway debut on Sunday. The Reese, a fan of bold legwear for winter months, said the The initiative, to go live in time for the Tracy knee-highs and tights will retail collaboration with Hue came together seamlessly since holiday season, will integrate online, cata- Reese’s from $18 to $24, and are being Hue often provided hose for her show. The practice is logue, call center and order processing at fall pitched to department stores popular among legwear fi rms such as Look From London, the $1.3 billion consumer direct business collection. and specialty retailers that al- Stockingirl and Wolford, which give product to designers unit. With real-time access to cross-chan- ready sell Reese’s clothes. such as Carolina Herrera, Marc Jacobs and Derek Lam for nel data, call center agents will better as- “The guest designer pro- their runway presentations. sist shoppers and merchants will be able gram really takes the Hue “We wanted to make what you can’t fi nd on the market to create real-time promotions without as- brand to the next level, as a and things that work in the real world,” Reese said. “We’re sistance from the technology staff. fashion leader,” said Julia always trying to strike that balance with the accessories.” “The concept is ‘software as a ser- Townsend, executive vice Catrinel Popa, vice president of merchandising and design vice,’ delivered on demand to marketers, president and general man- at Kayser-Roth, who worked with Reese on the collection, merchants and customer service associ- ager of Kayser-Roth Corp., said of the program: “We’re just trying to select designers who ates,” said n2N ceo Ruben Pinchanski, who said that legwear sales are in sync with the voice of Hue. We all felt Tracy was a good who served as executive vice president have been on an uptick since fi t. [The tights are] dressy but modern, and something that of Limited Brands Direct before he co- the fall. “We can also connect would accessorize her collection in a very nice way.” founded n2N. The focus, he told WWD, to equity of these ready-to- Reese, whose other accessories categories include foot- “is on making the customer experience wear designers and it helps wear and handbags, said both companies benefi t from such friendlier.” us offer exclusives in the leg- collaborations.

Director Of Wholesale International Luxury Fashion Co seeks Director of Wholesale w/min 7 yrs exp SALESPERSON dealing with major department store accounts. Candidate must have good Lisa International relationships with dept store contacts, EXCELLENT SALES OPPORTUNITIES Exp’d Salesperson to sell ladies Sports- as well as an understanding of luxury wear, Sweaters & Knits. Min. 5 yrs. exp. and contemporary retailers. You must KEY ACCOUNT SALES Please send resume to S. Sadaka at: possess strong leadership, presenta- Jonden by Linda Leal To work existing & expand branded & private label. Mens/ Fax: (212) 302-5184 or E-mail tion, communication and management Updated Missy Sportswear Line [email protected] skills. Must be efficient with retail Midwest,West Coast, Florida Rep Needed boys jeanswear bus. w/ major accts. Co. is rapidly growing projections. A team player is essential. Pls contact Amanda Skibell: 212-730-1741 and looking to add the right indiv. to our team. Great oppty Competitive salary and benefits. for just the right person. Exp. w/ this type of business a must. Please email resume and cover letter to: Exciting opportunities with [email protected] SALES ASSISTANT the rapidly growing lifestyle SALES PROFESSIONAL MODERN UPSCALE brand, Tory Burch. Leading Licensed Brand of Intimate SALES REPS WANTED FOR To handle & communicate w/ major nat’l & regional accts. Apparel seeks a highly motivated & BOUTIQUE Must be detailed oriented w/good communication skills. Account Executive aggressive individual. Salary open. Washington, DC Based RANDY KEMPER Ready to Wear Please Fax or E-mail resumes to: Our organization is looking for full- Modern Women’s Related Sportswear PLEASE FAX RESUME TO : 212-947-6868 (212) 481-5787 / [email protected] Candidate should have min time sales consultants who wish to be Separates Better/Bridge Prices/Specialty part of our expanding team. We are stores for the following territories: 2+ yrs exp handling majors. seeking bright enthusiastic candidates West Coast & Midwest. Please contact AE must be self-motivated, Sales Rep - OUTERWEAR with excellent communication and Geri Pitocco at: 212-391-1051 Ext. 16 BLUE TATTOO Exp’d. Sales Pro for est’d. NYC Outer customer service skills who are eager Independent Sales / detail oriented w/strong ana- wear lines. Contacts with major Dept./ to learn the fashion business. We are an Showroom / Road Reps lytical skills. Nat’l./Specialty/Chains. Fax / E-mail to: equal opportunity employer offering a Seeking experienced Men’s & Women’s Account Executive 212-302-5020 / [email protected] competitive salary plus benefits. salespeople w/ proven knowledge of Please send resume to: contemporary market and established Footwear and Accessories [email protected] ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE relationships with specialty stores. You must be a highly moti- A leading Manhattan based childrenswear Premium Denim exp a plus. Must be vated, self sufficient AE who co. is currently seeking a high-level self motivated & extremely organized. motivated children’s apparel Account Need Chicago, East Coast and Dallas will handle the majors. Executive. Must have extensive children’s territories and LA Showroom sales. Must have 3+ yrs exp in foot- apparel contacts & sales exp. Will track Please email info to wear sales, strong organiza- Several Sales Positions retail sales & maintain appropriate stock [email protected] B2X, an importer / manufactuer with levels. Involvement with merchandising tional / analytical skills. a strong Chinese manufacturing base & product development. Must be avail. Excellent oppty to work in has several openings for experienced to travel. Excellent salary & benefits. sales talent and management. Missy Please email or fax your resume to: fast-paced environment and Junior experience a plus, however [email protected] or SALES EXECUTIVE Please send resume to: will also consider those from other (212) 947-2039. No calls please. Sportswear co. seeks an energetic sales markets. Base plus commission. At plan, professional. Must have major active [email protected] first year earnings will exceed 100K for Department/Specialty in all sizes. Great and include position sales executives, & management pack- Showroom. Fax resume to: 212-768-9058 title in subject line. age negotiable for right individual. Email: [email protected] Please e-mail resume to: [email protected] 16 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 1, 2007 WWD.COM

Sharon Stone in Dior.

ScreenFashion week began two days early as hordesTest of starlets and models descended upon the Tribeca Grand and the Gramercy Park Hotel on Tuesday night for the Cinema Society and Calvin Klein’s screening and after party for “Factory Girl.” “Making this movie was so much fun,” boomed Meredith Ostrom, who added that she easily got into her part as Nico. “I just got distant, bored and detached.” Sienna Miller, the fi lm’s star, admitted she really missed dressing like Edie Sedgwick. “I could wear black tights all the time,” she said during a rare moment when the paparazzi were in retreat. “We went over to say ‘Hi’ to her, and it was just impossible because of the photographers” laughed Renée Rockefeller, who was hanging out with Jennifer Creel and Marina Rust. Also in attendance were Sharon Stone, Dominick Dunne, Milla Jovovich, May Anderson and Guy Pearce, who plays a very shallow version of Andy Warhol in the fi lm. The depiction was not exactly out of line with Dunne’s recollection of the artist. “He was superfi cial and he did not say much,” recalled Dunne. Stone had a similar memory of Warhol, whom she met once or twice in the Eighties. “He was just very aloof,” she said. The stars also turned out last week at Hollywood’s late-night dance club Avalon, which was transformed into an intimate cabaret for a performance by The Citizens Band and for the club’s show “Masquerading in Paradise.” Just back from the Sundance Film Festival, the ubiquitous Zooey Deschanel was the show’s guest star — though she didn’t belt out any solo numbers. (Past guest stars include Maggie Gyllenhaal and Melissa Auf der Maur, and Rain Phoenix is a permanent member.) As for the audience, Quentin Tarantino hung around Sienna backstage while Kirsten Dunst arrived after the lights went down with a Miller in group of girlfriends and waited for a table to be cleared near Cybill Shepherd. Calvin Klein Nearby, Bryan Rabin and Amanda Demme were also holding court. Collection with Francisco Costa.

Zooey Deschanel and Karen Elson.

Guy Pearce inin CalvinCalvin Klein Collection. Jennifer Creel in a Matthew Williamson May Andersen jacket with Renée Rockefeller in in Rachel Roy. Balenciaga and Marina Rust in Marni. Milla Jovovich

to write “Hannibal”? of the Talmudist — the great love of THE UNTOUCHABLE D.M.: Because they paid me a s--tload minutia, the ability to make obscure ver the course of his career, David of money. And, by the way, they didn’t connections, the love of argument — OMamet has written 24 screenplays, make my script. They gave me the these are real and can be traced back ranging from “The Spanish Prisoner” credit, but it wasn’t my script. to Russia and Poland. to “Wag the Dog.” What is perhaps less well known is that he’s an essayist WWD: What happened? WWD: Do you have those tendencies? who has written for Harper’s and The D.M.: They didn’t like it. They being D.M.: Sure. Of course. Guardian in London. A collection of [producer] Dino De Laurentiis and his essays, “Bambi vs. Godzilla: On the [director] Ridley Scott. But the Writers WWD: And how about your family. Are Nature, Purpose and Practice of the Guild has this arcane, druidical way they from Russia or Poland? Movie Business,” comes out Tuesday. of determining who gets the credit. D.M.: Poland. They’re Ashkenazi Jews. In it, he offers a kind of sociological So sometimes someone gets credit for deconstruction of the business, something they didn’t do. WWD: Hmmm. lampooning everyone from Hollywood D.M.: I don’t have Asperger’s. executives to the cavalcade of WWD: At any rate, you seem to sycophants who show up at premieres have come to the conclusion that WWD: The last part of the book and scream, “What visuals! What craft!” blockbusters are not what the public addresses the campaigns for the “The compliments,” Mamet explains, really wants and that we’re due for a Oscars. Did you get swept up in the “all mean one thing: The script stinks.” kind of market correction. insanity of it? Have you gone? Here, Mamet discusses the ins and D.M.: Yes. One of the problems of D.M.: I did. I went a couple of times outs of the industry. success is an increase in bureaucracy. when I was younger and I got nominated. You start to accrete testing groups and David Mamet WWD: Reading the book, one might screenings and marketing strategies. WWD: Were you sad when you didn’t assume you enjoy theater more but that And as you become less nimble, someone remember. Oh, well. win? it simply doesn’t pay the rent. else comes along and says, “Oh, there’s D.M.: Sad? No. I was shocked. You David Mamet: No, not at all. The this vast market no one is thinking of.” WWD: At one point in the book, you go and you know you’re going to win point of the book is simply that it’s a Show business is always about novelty... suggest that fi lmmakers and movie and then they call this name, and business. The movie industry is free- whether that’s “Porky’s II,” or “Borat” or producers may suffer from Asperger’s strangely, it’s not yours. You just sit market capitalism and, as such, it gets “My Big Fat Greek Wedding.” syndrome. To back this up, you point there thinking, “They called the wrong rough around the edges. I’m trying to out that the disorder is most common name.” Meanwhile, the guy next to tell the truth about what I see. WWD: What fi lms have you liked in Ashkenazi Jews, whom you say are in you, in an ill-fi tting tuxedo covered in recently? abundance in Hollywood. dandruff, gets up and goes to accept WWD: Still, you argue that Hollywood D.M.: I don’t know if I went to the D.M.: There’s a lot of Jews in show “your” award. Then you think, “I don’t puts out more and more “mush,” movies this year. Oh, I thought business. I’m one of them, and it’s a mind not winning, but how will I get to in the form of tent-pole fi lms and “Borat” was spectacular. I might heritage I’m proud of. But a lot of the give my speech?” sequels. So why exactly did you agree have seen something else, I can’t behavior patterns we see, the behavior — Jacob Bernstein “FACTORY GIRL” PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER; DESCHANEL AND ELSON BY TYLER BOYE; MAMET PHOTO BY AMY TIERNEY/WIREIMAGE MAMET PHOTO BY TYLER BOYE; STEVE EICHNER; DESCHANEL AND ELSON BY PHOTOS BY GIRL” “FACTORY