Magni cent scenery near Maccles eld.

All photos by Jane Cumberlidge.

WW Guide to the RING DISTANCE 96 MILES | LOCKS 92 | DURATION 1-2 WEEKS From the Cheshire Plain to the bright lights of , via the incomparable , this is a cruise to savour.

JaneDownloaded Cumberlidge by David A Calverley casts from off waterwaysworld.com from Anderton… www.waterwaysworld.com | JULY 2013 | 61 Anderton to Hardings Wood Junction

Anderton to Hardings Wood Junction

THE FAMOUS CHESHIRE RING can ancient salt works, gliding above probably provide boaters with the much of the surrounding farmland most comprehensive introduction on embankments. The old Lion Salt to Britain’s waterways. Through its works at was the last varied length you will cruise level open-pan works in Britain, closing pounds, work up and down strenuous in the mid-1980s and now being ights, creep through eerie refurbished as a heritage centre. The tunnels and slide over impressive Lion Salt Works Trust is managing the aqueducts. From Cheshire’s fertile day to day restoration and the new agricultural plains, the ring skirts centre should open in summer 2014. the dramatic heights of the Peak The soon passes through District before descending to the wider sections of water, called city sights of Manchester. The route ashes, left over from salt works. then gradually returns to more In spring the encroaching reed rural landscapes along the lock-free beds here are popular with nesting . Although the swans, and the males can sometimes ring can be completed in a week, be very aggressive if you get too such a tight schedule allows no close! The canal runs alongside the time to visit the charming villages , which you cross on or sample some of the many Croxton Aqueduct. In the 1890s attractions Manchester has to offer. this was a wide-beam structure Your rst decision is whether to but was rebuilt after a ood in the cruise the Cheshire Ring clockwise 1930s and is now probably the or anti-clockwise. Here we go anti- narrowest section of the canal. clockwise and set off in a southerly On the edge of town, direction from Anderton Marina the canal starts climbing at the wide- on the Trent & Mersey Canal. beam Big Lock, with a pub alongside This allows a few lock-free miles, and new housing overlooking it. before easing into lock activity at There are good moorings near the Middlewich ahead of the more town centre before three locks extensive Cheshire locks. bring you to the junction with the The Trent & Mersey is one of Middlewich Branch of the Shropshire the oldest on the system. Union Canal. Middlewich has been an Opened in 1777, it formed part of important settlement since Roman ’s original ‘Grand Cross’. times and salt was the backbone of Through Cheshire the canal seems its economy. The canals played an Downloaded by David A Calverley from waterwaysworld.comto waver somewhat erratically past essential part in the salt industry 62 | JULY 2013 | www.waterwaysworld.com Cheshire Ring

LEFT: Green. ABOVE: . ABOVE RIGHT: Wheelock. RIGHT: Middlewich. throughout the 19th century with large works and factories lining the Trent & Mersey Canal. Today only one salt company respite en route and this stretch is more remains but Middlewich town is still busy daunting in prospect than in practice. and the canal junction active. In June each This was once a busy industrial area, year there is a lively Folk & Boat Festival. but now there are few reminders of As you continue along the Trent & such intense work. You may wonder Mersey, the next few locks are well how many golf balls end up in the canal spaced. Approaching you as you pass the rolling links near locks start to rise out of the Cheshire Plain 62 and 61 at Malkin’s Bank. Just after through an enchanting blend of rural and Bridge 148 you dive under the M6. industrial surroundings. The canal doesn’t The contrast between the thundering touch Sandbach, but you can see the motorway and the slow business of town church about a mile away. Passing passing through Lock 58 is striking. under a massive railway line, you soon nd There’s a charming row of cottages pleasant countryside opening up, with the alongside Lock and the possibility of a quiet mooring for the night. popular Broughton Arms near Bridge 139. The River Wheelock is now to the After Hall and Church Locks, the canal west in a valley dotted with large dairy has farmland either side, while the church farms, while ahead and to the east open of All Saints, Church Lawton, is a short country starts lifting towards the high walk away. We moored by the towpath moors of the Peak District. Wheelock which was busy with joggers, dog walkers village has good moorings, a tap, rubbish and locals out for an evening stroll. disposal and a pleasant canalside Italian Climbing up the Red Bull locks, trains restaurant called San Marco, with the go whizzing along the track just to the Cheshire Cheese pub across the road. south. The service point at Red Bull has Most locks from here to Red Bull everything you need and feels attractively Junction are duplicated, though rural despite being only a stone’s throw occasionally one of a pair has been from . The Red Bull Hotel has a abandoned or closed for maintenance. canalside garden. By now the canal water There are 26 locks in roughly 7 miles, has taken on the distinctive orange hue giving this section the nickname from the local iron ore, which intensi es as ‘Heartbreak Hill’. However, various you approach Pool Aqueduct and the last canalsideDownloaded pubs andby David moorings A Calverley offer from waterwaysworld.comtwo locks before Hardings Wood Junction. www.waterwaysworld.com | JULY 2013 | 63 Hardings Wood Junction to Dukineld

Hardings Wood Junction to Dukineld

THE CANAL wasn’t opened until in a straight reach past old industrial buildings. 1831, connecting the to the You feel quite shut in by high brick walls and a Trent & Mersey. This idyllic rural waterway only cutting before emerging over an aqueduct and just touches the towns of , Maccleseld embankment. Looking back towards Congleton and , all once heavily involved in you see one of the magnicent viaducts carrying spinning cotton and silk. After the stop lock at the railway across the valley. Bridges 61 and 62 Hall Green the canal is level apart from the 12 are close together and the narrows between locks, a picturesque ight through quiet them have to be passed in one go; a bottleneck wooded slopes. The Peak Forest Canal was built if several boats are coming in the opposite to transport limestone from the Peak District direction. Keen walkers should stop near Bridge down to Manchester and was opened in 1800. 61 and climb the Cloud, whose summit is about Turning onto the Maccleseld Canal at Hardings 200m above the canal. Stone was quarried Wood Junction, you cross your own track on Pool from this bluff to build the 12-lock Bosley ight. Aqueduct, one of only three canal yovers in Britain. Below the bottom lock there are pleasant rural A short mile from the aqueduct, Hall Green stop moorings by the aqueduct over the River Dane. lock has a tiny rise but is slow to ll. The atmosphere Bridge 49 is a swing-bridge activated by a of the Macc soothes you straightaway with its waterways key. At Maccleseld you see plenty wide open skies and rolling countryside. To the of colourful boats at the Canal Centre, next to south-east, hill is topped by its castle the old Hovis Mill. There are good moorings folly and to the north-west the land falls grandly opposite and a pub next to the bridge. Hovis our away across the Cheshire Plain. You soon pass was originally produced here, but production Ramsdell Hall, an imposing 18th century red-brick moved to Manchester i the early 1900s and manor with lawns gliding down to the canal. at the old mill they produced the wrappers. In The rst of the Macc’s ‘roving bridges’ is no 77, its 1830s peak, Maccleseld had 71 silk mills just before Congleton Wharf. These picturesque and was a world leader in nished silk. The and practical bridges allowed the towpath to change Silk Museum in Park Lane tells the story. sides without the boatman having to unhitch his Approaching Bollington you pass the impressive horse. At Congleton Wharf the original Maccleseld brick Adelphi Mill, now smart ofces but built in Canal Company building has been sympathetically 1856 as a cotton mill which later produced silk restored and converted into apartments. From and even WWII parachutes. There are pleasant the attractive moorings it’s about a mile into town moorings on the high aqueduct across the and there are two handy pubs. Leaving the wharf main road through town. Bollington has good is Dog Lane Aqueduct, one of Telford’s cast-iron shops with two butchers, a Co-op, a nice baker, troughs raised on stone pillars with ornate railings. pubs and several stylish restaurants including Downloaded by David A Calverley fromThe waterwaysworld.com canal passes through Congleton Hightown the excellent Lime Tree in the High Street. 64 | JULY 2013 | www.waterwaysworld.com Cheshire Ring

ABOVE LEFT: Bosley locks. ABOVE: On the Bosley ight with the Cloud in the distance. LEFT: Cruising at the edge of the Peak District. BELOW: Marple Aqueduct.

Mow Cop Folly-topped Mow Cop is an iconic landmark visible for miles around, not least to boaters on the Maccleseld and Trent & Mersey canals. Wilbraham’s Folly was built in 1754, effectively as a summer- house for the wealthy Wilbraham family; the crumbling arch has always been in that state, intended to give the impression of an ancient ruin. At the start of the 18th century, local man Hugh Bourne sought to save what he saw as a godless area: “A stranger could hardly go over Harrishead without insult and sometimes not without injury,” he wrote. In 1807, he climbed Mow Cop in the company of some 4,000 others to deliver a ery, charismatic sermon out of which the Primitive Methodist movement grew. There is still a Primitive Street in Mow Cop today. Religious fanaticism aside, climb the 1,020ft Mow Cop if you have the time. The views in all directions are simply stunning! KEITH GOSS

On the northern edge of Bollington, Clarence Turning left at the junction you start a 200ft, Mill has a towering brick chimney. Cotton 16-lock, descent towards Manchester. Working was once spun here, with raw bre arriving by down towards the main road you pass some canal from Liverpool and the yarn carried to wonderful canalside gardens. Between locks 10 and Lancashire for weaving. This handsome building 9 is Oldknow’s elegant 1805 cotton warehouse, now houses business units, Café Waterside, the now converted into ofces. Beyond the main road Discovery Centre and rather ne apartments. Brabyns Park is on one side and the locks are Beyond Bollington, the canal meanders through surrounded by trees. The ight can be physically park and ancient woodland before emerging hard work and it seems a shame that there are no into open countryside. Running parallel is the moorings, but you aren’t supposed to stop between Middlewood Way, a popular walk and cycle route the locks. Just beyond the bottom lock the railway on an old railway track. The two basins at Lyme crosses the canal and then there’s the aqueduct View Marina have a superb outlook. There are more over the River Goyt with another superb viaduct private moorings near Marple – Mount Vernon alongside. After Hyde Bank Tunnel the canal Wharf at Higher , the Trading Post and the surroundings become more urban and Manchester’s friendly North Cheshire Cruising Club at High Lane. tentacles start reaching out towards you. Marple has good shops a short walk from the The lower Peak Forest Canal is sandwiched canal. Turning right at the junction you can continue between the railway and the River Tame and is for 5 lock-free miles on the Upper Peak Forest generally quite built up. But there are still stretches Canal to and Bugsworth Basin. of countryside and even in more suburban parts Winding past and Furness Vale, this delightful the canal feels close to nature with lots of wildlife. excursion has swing and lifting bridges to keep you Canalside living is becoming desirable here and supple and the Navigation Inn as a welcome stop. there are several new building projects. You’ll nd Below Marple you can visit the Roman Lakes Leisure pleasant safe moorings around Dukineld, either Park,Downloaded a popular attractionby David for A overCalverley 100 years. from waterwaysworld.comside of the lifting bridge or at Portland Basin. www.waterwaysworld.com | JULY 2013 | 65 Dukin eld to Anderton

Bridgewater Canal.

Dukin eld to Anderton

THE has a historic canals, the Portland Basin Museum reputation for hooliganism, but recent tells the evocative story of passages to have Tameside’s industrial heritage. As invariably been straightforward and the mix you turn left towards Manchester, of old buildings and smart developments is a superb chimney with a sort of fascinating. Because of past problems, boat coronet on top dominates the crews are often advised to complete the view. This rst section of the Ashton Canal and the Rochdale Nine in a day, Ashton runs through a mixture of yet this gruelling schedule is unnecessary residential and industrial premises The village of . because there are now excellent places to with several derelict sites awaiting stop in Manchester. This great city should be redevelopment. Alongside the canal the highlight of a Cheshire Ring cruise, not are some surviving examples of an area to be passed as quickly as possible. wonderfully ornate Victorian brickwork. After the last Ashton lock you enter A practical plan is to set off from a mooring Below Lock 8, the National Cycling Piccadilly Village, a calm residential oasis near Dukin eld lifting bridge at about 8am, Centre is on one side and Manchester with pleasant secure moorings. The ‘Private preferably midweek in term-time, so you City’s Etihad Stadium on the other. As Moorings’ signs are a bit misleading as visitors reach the rst Ashton lock when potential you approach , much interesting are welcome to stay 24 hours either in troublemakers are at school. The early start is new building is in progress. Overlooking Thomas Telford Basin or at rings on the non- also advisable because these locks take longer Lock 2 is a stunning residential creation by towpath side. A downside of these moorings than usual. Although the gear is in good order, Urban Splash, like a colourful giant Lego. is that the area is gated and you can’t stroll out most paddles have security handcuffs. Litter The splendid New Islington Marina is into the city. As you emerge onto the Rochdale and rubbish can be quite dense in the Ashton, currently accessible from above Lock 82 Canal above Lock 84, quayside moorings at so your boat hook will be invaluable. You should on the , with secure visitor Ducie Street Wharf are just opposite, or to reach Manchester centre by mid-afternoon. moorings and excellent facilities. From the right is Dale Street Basin. This whole area At Dukin eld Junction, where the Peak 2014, visitor moorings will also be available has been much improved and boat crews ForestDownloaded meets the by Hudders David A eld Calverley and Ashton from waterwaysworld.comfrom just below Lock 2 on the Ashton. often moor here without any problems. 66 | JULY 2013 | www.waterwaysworld.com Cheshire Ring

The Rochdale Nine creaks through an intriguing, quite chic quarter of the city. The locks are double and the gates and gear pretty heavy, so it’s good if you can go through with another boat. Some lower gates are winched open with chains where the balance beams are shorter than normal. The rst two locks pass under buildings and boaters become part of the entertainment for tourists on the towpath. Canal Street has its own particular clientele and then the new bars, cafés and apartments at Deansgate have a lively atmosphere. The last lock has a pretty lock house on one side and a modern bar on the other called Duke’s 92. Just beyond it, Castle eld Basin’s smartly redeveloped wharfs are round to the left and numerous rail bridges Castle eld Basin, Manchester. loom up on the right. Under the railway, Potato Wharf has moorings next to the YHA. liners. In contrast, the old Linotype works Ahead is the beckoning Bridgewater Canal, are attractive late Victorian brick and the Manchester treats crossed by an impressive new footbridge. of ce block roof has a green copper pyramid. ● Take a fascinating boat trip round the old The broader Bridgewater Canal heads Beyond Seamon’s Moss Bridge you are in docks, River Irwell and upper reaches of the towards more open country, passing at rst open country again with the towpath well , starting from Salford through a semi-urban no-man’s-land. Pomona used by walkers, though cycling isn’t allowed. Quays near Media City and the Lowry Centre. Lock is extremely low key, even though it Passing Dunham Massey you get a good ● In the Great Hall of the old Victorian Cotton leads down to the Manchester Ship Canal. view of the manor house before the canal runs Exchange, the Royal Exchange Theatre has You pass Manchester United’s huge Old along an embankment over the River Bollin. a fantastic circular stage in a glass-sided Trafford Stadium, a vast area of containers The aqueduct was rebuilt after a breach in structure suspended on massive pillars. between the canal and railway, and then, in the 1971 and is now barely wide enough for two ● Manchester Art Gallery has one of the approach to Waters Meeting, an absolutely boats to pass. After more lines of moored UK’s most impressive collections, especially enormous hangar full of Kellogg’s breakfast boats and two ef cient looking boatyards of 19th century British paintings. cereals! From Waters Meeting it’s just over you come into Lymm, a delightful village ● Bridgewater Hall has amazing acoustics 2 miles on the Leigh Branch to the Barton with the elegant Bridgewater House next to and hosts a huge range of concerts for swing aqueduct across the Manchester Ship the bridge. Lymm has 48-hour moorings on classical, folk, rock and pop music. It Canal. If you have time for a diversion, the each bank, a rst-class butcher, baker and is next to a short branch canal off the round trip to Worsley is about 10 miles with delicatessen, banks, pubs and a supermarket. Rochdale Nine between locks 88 and 89. two spectacular crossings of the ship canal. The Manchester Ship Canal is not far ● Manchester’s Arndale Centre Heading west towards Sale, progress is north and and is a shoppers’ paradise. fairly slow past long lines of moored boats, straggle between the two waterways. ● The Museum of Science & Industry is rst at Stretford and the Watch House Grappenhall is particularly attractive past its near Castle eld Junction and Manchester Cruising Club. Sale Cruising Club moorings old village church. It’s worth mooring awhile is home to the National Football Museum. seem to go on inde nitely, with a few rather at Stockton Heath, just before London Road ● For real ale enthusiasts, CAMRA sad wrecks and sunken boats. There are good Bridge. There’s a handy recycling centre has ve itineraries introducing the moorings and a pub just before Sale Bridge. and it’s not far to walk down to see the Ship pubs and beers of the city. As the canal swings west, new apartment Canal. Stockton Heath has good shops For more information go to blocks on the left resemble the bows of cruise and lots of bars, bistros and restaurants www.visitmanchester.com

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Navigation Notes ● Although you can cover the 96-mile Cheshire Ring in a week, this requires long cruising days and leaves little time to sample all the area has to offer. Better to take a slower pace and allow ten days to a fortnight. Don’t be put Anderton Marina. off stopping in Manchester by gloom-mongers who may never have tried it. Just take sensible class is ideal for two of us at 58ft, Anderton Boat Lift. precautions and choose your but there’s a wide choice to suit all mooring carefully (see below). crews. Marina manager John Cunliffe along London Road. Moving on you soon leave suburbia ● On the Maccles eld and Peak runs an ef cient and friendly team behind again and are out into the countryside when the Forest we met bands of cheery, who turn boats round in immaculate great cooling towers of beckon in the distance. helpful CRT volunteers. Bob and style at each changeover. Instruction You pass the turning to Runcorn and the old lock ights Alan helped us with pump-out and for novices or seasoned hands is that once joined the Bridgewater to the Ship Canal, and water at the services by Bosley top thorough, informative and genial continue south towards Tunnel. The one-way lock. We were really pleased to and there’s always someone a phone system is clearly indicated on a board before the entrance. meet John, Mike and Dave on the call away in case of problems. Dutton StopLock has a minimal change of level but seems Marple ight as the paddles were Contact Anderton Marina, to take for ever to equalise – your nal lock of the Ring. Stop hard work and team effort made Uplands Road, Anderton, Cheshire awhile at the impressive new breach repair at Dutton Hollow, the second half much easier. The CW9 6AJ. Tel: 0160679642. from where the panoramic views across the farmland volunteers are on duty between Central booking: Tel: 0330 3330 below will stay spectacular until trees grow up again. 10am and 3pm but not at weekends. 590, www.everythingcanalboats.com. Saltersford Tunnel is also one-way and, although only 424 ● The Ashton locks have handcuffs ● There are other hire companies yards long, the line is rather wonky and you can’t see light on almost all the paddles, though at Preston Brook, Middlewich at the other end. Once through Barnton Tunnel you soon the actual working was good. The and Maccles eld. Day boat hire is arrive at the top of the Anderton Boat Lift. If you have time Rochdale Nine have very heavy available if you just want to try a to take a trip down to the and , gates and are hard work for a crew short section. The Ring has plenty book your passage in advance, or you can join a trip boat of two. Some volunteers on these of boatyards offering fuel, pump- at the information centre. A quarter mile from the lift two ights would be a huge bene t. out, repairs or chandlery as well you’re back at Anderton after a truly memorable cruise. as high quality boat building. Moorings ● Peaceful bank-side mooring is Dimensions often possible, though discretion Length 72ft, beam 7ft, draught is needed in some urban areas and 2ft 6in, headroom 6ft parts of the Maccles eld are shallow. Middlewich has good town centre Navigation Authority moorings and Bollington Wharf is Canal & River Trust: 03030 404040, convenient for the high street. Lymm (www.canalrivertrust.org.uk) is a highlight of the Bridgewater. Bridgewater Canal Company: ● Manchester’s New Islington 0161 629 8266, Marina will be a real boon and (www.bridgewatercanal.co.uk) Castle eld Basin is a snug base for visiting city sights. Telford Basin in Waterways Societies Piccadilly Village is very safe but IWA Manchester Branch: 01298 gated. Ducie Street Wharf and Dale 78141, (www.waterways.org.uk) Street basin have good moorings. Trent & Mersey Canal Society www.trentandmerseycanalsociety.co.uk Boat traf c Anderton Boat Lift Trust ● The Cheshire Ring is popular www.andertonboatlift.co.uk yet rarely feels crowded. The Bridgewater Canal Trust doubled up locks in the Cheshire www.bridgewatercanal.co.uk ight mean you have a fair chance Maccles eld Canal Society of nding one set in your favour. www.maccles eldcanal.org.uk You may have to wait for passage through Preston Brook Tunnel or Other Maps & Guides Saltersford, for which north-bound Nicholsons Guides to passages start on the hour and the Waterways 5: North south-bound on the half-hour. West & the Pennines Pearsons Canal Companion: Boatyards & hiring Cheshire Ring, Rufford Arm, Weaver ● We cruised from the Alvechurch Navigation, Rochdale Canal, base at Anderton Marina. We chose OS Landranger Maps: 109 our comfortable ‘Great Blue Heron’ (Manchester), 117 ( from the excellent Alvechurch base & Wrexham), 118 (Stoke-on- at Anderton Marina. The Heron Trent & Maccles eld) Downloaded by David A Calverley from waterwaysworld.com 68 | JULY 2013 | www.waterwaysworld.com