Carolina A Miranda Aimée Dowl, Katy Shorthouse, Luke Waterson Beth Williams

01-prelims-per7.indd 1 17/12/2009 1:20:11 PM BEST OF PERU Clinging to the Andes, between the parched coastal desert and the drippy expanse of the Amazon rainforest, Peru offers such a wide range of experiences that it can be difficult to choose between them. Solemn pilgrimages honor gods both Christian and indigenous. Neon-lit discos get jam-packed with reveling youth. Ancient ruins regularly divulge bits of prehistory. And then, of course, there is the food – a bounty of sublime concoctions made from ingredients native and contemporary. Welcome to Peru – it’s going to be one tasty trip.

RICHARD I’ANSON

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Essential Peru There’s north, there’s south, desert and jungle. There are museums to visit, lakes to ogle, waves to surf, labyrinthine cities to explore – and enough ancient ruins to keep archaeologists employed for centuries. Where to start? This is our guide to a few essentials.

 TIPLING; 3 BRENT WINEBRENNER 2 DAVID 1 ERIC WHEATER;

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 

 Máncora Less a lake than a highland ocean, the This internationally famous surf spot (p376 ) Titicaca area is home to fantastical sights: has something for everyone – even folks floating islands made of totora reeds (p207), who don’t hang ten. There’s horse riding, pre-Columbian funerary towers (p206 ) and hot springs and beach combing to fill the fertility temples full of stone phalluses days, while street parties and beachside ( p212 ). Far out. bonfires light up the nights.  Parque Nacional Manu  Covering an area the size of Wales, this The meaning behind these mysterious vast Amazon reserve ( p474 ) protects cloud glyphs (p142 ) continues to elude scholars. forest and rainforest ecosystems – making Not that it matters. Their magnificence and for maximum wildlife-spotting. Not to be breathtaking scale – which can only be ap- missed: the clay licks that draw hundreds preciated from the air – make them a wonder of squawking macaws. to behold.  Monasterio de Santa Catalina  The eternally graceful city of is Archaeology buffs refer to the Chachapoyas home to this dazzling, citadel-sized monas- people’s mountaintop fortress (p448 ) as the tery ( p164 ), which dates back to the 16th ‘other ,’ but its unique stone- century. It even has its own cafe, serving work and proud position overlooking the pastries and espresso. Utcubamba valley make it a special – and incomparable – place to visit.  Nightlife is devoted to the past, but  The Streets of Cuzco Lima is all about the present. Here, discos Once the capital of the , tourist- spin international beats (p117 ), lounges thronged Cuzco (p220 ) – the gateway to serve frothy fusion cocktails ( p115 ) and the mountaintop refuge of Machu Picchu restaurants draw late-night crowds with a ( p267 ) – is lined with extraordinary cobble- bevy of inventive dishes ( p109 ). stone passageways and indigenous struc- tures that have been inhabited continuously since pre-Hispanic times. 1 ERIC WHEATER; 2 DAVID TIPLING; 3 BRENT WINEBRENNER 2 DAVID 1 ERIC WHEATER;

02-best-of-per7.indd 7 17/12/2009 1:21:53 PM 13 Contents

On the Road 4 South Coast 125 Pucusana 126 Best of Peru 5 Asia 126 Cañete & Cerro Azul 127 Destination Peru Lunahuaná 127 17 Chincha 128 Pisco & Paracas 129 Getting Started 19 Ica 136 Huacachina 139 Itineraries 23 Palpa 141 Nazca & Around 141 History 29 Sacaco 147 Chala 148 Camaná 148 The Culture 47 Mollendo 149 Mejía & Río Tambo Valley 150 Food & Drink 58 Moquegua 150 Ilo 153 Environment 67 Tacna 154 Arequipa & Canyon Lima 78 Country 159 History 79 AREQUIPA 160 Orientation 79 History 160 Information 80 Orientation 161 Dangers & Annoyances 86 Dangers & Annoyances 163 Sights 87 Sights 164 Activities 101 Activities 168 Courses 102 Courses 170 Tours & Guides 102 Tours & Guides 171 Festivals & Events 102 Festivals & Events 171 Sleeping 103 Sleeping 171 Eating 109 Drinking 115 Peru Outdoors 173 Entertainment 117 Eating 182 Shopping 118 Drinking 184 Getting There & Away 119 Entertainment 184 Getting Around 121 Shopping 185 AROUND LIMA 122 Getting There & Away 185 122 Getting Around 187 Lurín 122 CANYON COUNTRY 187 Southern Beaches 123 Reserva Nacional Salinas y Carretera Central 123 Aguada Blanca 187

03-content-per7.indd 13 18/12/2009 11:08:10 AM 11-lima-per7.indd 78 LIMA even thinkofmissingit. ofagastronomicrevolution moreto high-brow,allpart than400yearsinthemaking. of saints. It’saculturalphantasmagoriawithprofusionofexceptional eateries, fromhumble ping malls,well-heeledprivate golfclubsandbaroquechurchesornamented with theskulls nightclubs swayingtotropicalbeats. You’llfindencyclopedicbookstores andcavernous shop- lations. There are solemnreligious processionsdatingbacktothe18thcenturyand crowded experiences. Stately spaceshostmultimediainstal- museumsdisplaysublimepottery; edgyart there, gracefulmoderniststructures channelarchitecture’s mosthopefulera. Vestiges ofcolonialmansionsproudlydisplaylavish,Moorish-stylebalconies. And,here and temples sittingsilentlyamidcondominiumhigh-rises.layers andyou’llfindpre-Columbian travelers tend toscuttlethroughontheirwaymore pastoraldestinationsintheAndes. Styrofoam. Itisloud,chaotic,andgritty;muchofitsarchitecture isbulkyandgray.Foreign cliffs, itspendsmuchoftheyearmarinated inaperpetualfogthatturnstheskycolorof cityclinging precariously Limaisnothingofbeauty.Asprawlingdesert todusty On itssurface, Lima 78  This isLima. Shroudedinhistory,gloriouslymessyandfullofaestheticdelights. Don’t What Limalacksinattractiveness,upwithahugearrayofdownrightliterary itmakes This isunfortunate. Limamaynotwearitstreasures onitssleeve, butpeelbackthefoggy

      HIGHLIGHTS

TELEPHONECODE:01 Leaping offtheMiraflores clifftopsand GazingupontheskullsofsomeLatinAmeri- Walking aroundthesandyruinsofseveral Walking Admiring sublime Moche portrait vessels AdmiringsublimeMocheportrait Sipping asimplebeerorhigh-browfusion Dipping intothecontinent’smostinventive cuisineatthebustlingrestaurants of ( p112) ( p122) and naughtyeroticpotsatthe Santo Domingo( p90 ) inCentral Lima ca’s mostcelebrated saintsat the the trendy LarcoMar shoppingmall gliding ( p101 ) pasttheshoppers anddinersat (p116) of always-hoppingBarranco cocktail atthevintagebarsandchiclounges civilizations’ worth oftemples at civilizations’ worth ( p95)  Museo Larco POPULATION: 8.5million (Greater Metropolitan Area) Pachacamac Iglesia de Iglesia de (p119) para-

Museo Larco Shopping LarcoMar Mall  AVERAGE TEMPERATURE: July11°Cto21°C January17°Cto27°C, Miraflores Barranco Santo Domingo Iglesia de Pachacamac Miraflores 15/12/2009 2:17:04 PM

LIMA 79 15/12/2009 2:17:09 PM15/12/2009 2:17:09 PM 5’ will be numbered from 500 to from 500 to 5’ will be numbered (the ditch). el zanjón The airport resides in the port city of in the port city of The airport resides Central connecting The principal bus routes From this point, Av Arequipa, one of one of Arequipa, From this point, Av 20km northwest of Miraflores. The area is also The area Miraflores. 20km northwest of base,home to a naval an old colonial fort and La Punta. the pleasant seaside community of run along Lima with San Isidro and Miraflores Garcilaso de la Tacna, as such broad avenues These are neighborhoods and Arequipa. Vega de highway by the short also connected Paseo known infor- la República or Vía Expresa, mally as Street Names a grid with laid out in is generally The city easy to follow, jump- that are numbers street (block; cuadra ing to the next 100 for each ie ‘cuadra names can be con- 599). However, street with alarming fusing. For one, they change century veneer, where grand boulevards are grand boulevards are where century veneer, (if decayed) structures lined with extravagant from styles, architectural built in a panoply of beaux arts. Victorian to plunges the city’s principal thoroughfares, southeast, through Santa Beatriz, María Jesús arriving in well-to-do San and Lince, before and one This is Lima’s banking center Isidro. its most affluentof settlements. San Isidro the contiguous, seaside way to quickly gives serves which Miraflores, as of neighbourhood with com- bustling core, Lima’s contemporary Immediately and nightlife. merce, restaurants to the south lies Barranco, a stately turn-of- community. Long the the-20th-century resort today it boasts some center, city’s bohemian the city. in the most hopping bars of refurbished parks, and cleaner and safer pub- and safer and cleaner parks, refurbished cultural a thriving not to mention lic areas, life. culinary and ORIENTATION the Andes, sandy on the foothills of Planted metropolis composedLima is a rambling of The or districts. than 30 municipalities more heart, Lima Centrocity’s historic (Central the southern banks Lima), lies at a bend on around the Plaza de the Río Rímac. Here, of laid out in crowded streets Armas, a grid of the city’s Pizarro houses most of the days of On this surviving colonial architecture. southern flank, around the neighborhood’s the Plaza Bolognesi and the Plaza San Martín, on a 19th- de la Cultura, the city takes Parque , about 12km west of downtown or downtown or Callao, west of 12km about caso- •• History LIMA But the city has again dusted itselfBut the city has again dusted off and By the mid-1900s the number of inhabit- By the mid-1900s the number of By the 18th century, the Spaniards’ tum- By the 18th century, the In 1880, Lima found itself when under siege provement efforts have led to repaved streets, streets, led to repaved efforts have provement truck bombs in middle-class Miraflores, truck bombs in middle-class Miraflores, hours. darkest Lima’s marking one of A robust degree. – to an astonishing rebuilt municipal im- economy and a vast array of the capital. Shantytowns mushroomed, crime mushroomed, the capital. Shantytowns steep into a period of and the city fell soared group Senderodecay. In 1992, the terrorist deadly detonated Path) Luminoso (Shining Andes sent victims of the violence flocking to the violence Andes sent victims of design. Once again, however, a devastating this time in 1940, and the struck, earthquake to be rebuilt. city again had ants began to grow exponentially. An influx population rural poor took the metro area of from 661,000 in 1940 to 8.5 million by 2007. The migration was particularly intense dur- ing the 1980s, when the conflict between the military guerilla groups in the and assorted off with thousands of tomes from the National off with thousands of Library (though they would eventually re- turn them – in 2007). The war was followed expansion, and by the by another period of by a network of 1920s Lima was crisscrossed urban by Parisian broad boulevards inspired it was ransacked and occupied by the Chilean and occupied by it was ransacked (1879– the Pacific military during the War of the Chileans made the pillage, part of 83). As lined with baroque churches and ample and lined with baroque churches nas (mansions). The city’s importance began independence in 1821, when to fade after capitals crowned of were other urban centers independent states. newly arrived to transport the conquest’s golden to transport the conquest’s golden arrived In 1746, a disastrous spoils back to Europe. the city, but of wiped out much earthquake soon were rapid and streets was the rebuilding bledown village of adobe and wood had given adobe and wood had given of bledown village ships fleets of capital, where way to a viceregal the Lima, Wari, Ichsma and even Inca the Ichsma the Lima, Wari, sketched When cultures. in Kings’ his ‘City of out the boundaries of roughly 200,000 were 1535, there of January the area. people living in indigenous and rebirth. Regular apocalyptic earthquakes, earthquakes, Regular apocalyptic and rebirth. civilizations rise and the and fall of warfare ancient as it in a city that is as resulted have served, times, the area is new. In pre-Hispanic for center another, as an urban at one time or HISTORY HISTORY survivedLima has destruction cycles of endless lonelyplanet.com 11-lima-per7.indd 7911-lima-per7.indd 79 567 Index

A Andahuaylillas 288-9 Huacas del Sol y de la Luna 351-2 AbancayABBREVIATIONS 294-6 Andean condors 69, 187-8, 190-1, Huanca ruins 306 AbraACT la Raya Australian 198 Capital 366, 404 itineraries 28 Territory Abra Patricia conservation area 452 Andes, the 67 Jauja 306 NSW New South Wales accommodations 508-11, 552, see animal bites 546, 548-9 Kuélap 34, 275, 448, 274 NT Northern Territory also individual locations animals 68-71 La Congona 450 Qld Queensland Acobamba 304-5 books 68, 69, 71, 77 439 SA South Australia activities 21, 173-80, 511-12, see also butterflies 71, 503 Marcahuasi 300 Tas Tasmania individual activities crocodiles 386 Museum of the Royal Tombs of Vic Victoria Acurio, Gastón 58 spectacled bears 70, 366, 404 Sipán 365 WA Western Australia Arequipa restaurants 184 anthropological museums 93, 97 Nazca Lines 32, 142-4 Cuzco restaurants 248 ants 71 Oyu Oyu 190 Lima restaurants 110, 111, 113, apartments 509 Pachamama 209 114 Alianza Popular Revolution Ameri- Pachatata 209 addresses 524 cana (APRA) 39, 40, 41-2, 45-6, Paracas Necropolis 31-2, 131, 133 Cuzco 222 342 Paramonga 337 Lima 79-80 archaeological artifacts 56 Pardeones ruins 144-5 Afro-Peruvian culture 129 archaeological museums 270 331-2 Aguas Calientes 267-8, 277-8, 268 Arequipa 167 Sechín 339 Aguas Verdes 386 432-3 206 INDEX Aguilar, Fabrizio 52 351 Sipán 32, 364, 365, 273 air travel Cuzco 231-2 Sondor 296 tickets 531, 536 Ica 136 Susupillo 331 to/from Cuzco 253-4 Ilo 153 Tambo de Mora 128-9 within Peru 535-6, 535-41, 533 Lambayeque 365-6 302 airlines 530-1, 535-6 Leimebamba 450 Temple of 329 Alarcón, Daniel 51 Lima 97 Túcume 366 Alca 193 Nazca 144 Tumshukaiko 417 Alegría, Ciro 51 Trujillo 345 Wari ruins 325 altitude sickness 392, 548 archaeological sites, see also cave architecture 53-4 aluviones 392 paintings, funerary sites, geo- colonial mansions 91-2, 166-7, Amantaní Island 209-10 glyphs, Inca archaeological sites 343-4 Amaru, Túpac 37 Antaymarca 193 Inca civilization 276 Amaru II, Túpac 38, 222 Batán Grande 366-7 Arequipa 160-87, 160, 162, 3, 9 Amazon Basin 459-507, 461 books 20, 22 accommodations 171-82 climate 67-8, 460, 477 145 activities 168-70 itineraries 27 Cantallo aqueducts 144-5 attractions 164-8 mining 46 270-1, 338, 270 Cayma 167 Amazon lodges Central Highlands 331 dangers 163-4 Cuzco to Manu 476, 477 Cerro Baúl 152 drinking 184 Iquitos area 503-7 Chan Chan 274, 349-51 entertainment 184-5 Lago Sandoval 470-1 Chavín de Huántar 31, 271-2, festivals 171 Manu area 479 422-3, 271 food 182-4 Parque Nacional Manu 478 Complejo Arqueológico la Huaca el history 160-1 Río de Madre de Dios 469-70 Brujo 352 internet access 161 Río Tambopata 471-4 Gran Pajatén 439 medical services 161 Amazon river cruises 497-8, 537 446-7 Paucarpata 167 Ampay 295 Huaca Arco Iris 351, 274 shopping 185 Andagua 192, 297, 175 351 tourist information 163 Andahuaylas 296-8 97 tours & guides 171

29-index-per7.indd 567 18/12/2009 11:18:21 AM 29-index-per7.indd 568 INDEX Ayacucho 317-25, Ayabaca 374-5 avalanches 392,549 Ausangate 234,294,295 ATMs 521-2 Atavillos culture 328 Atalaya 477,483 35,36,221-2,429-31,432 38,40 conflict Atacama Desert Asia 126-7 people11,480,481,484 Asháninka 51-6,seealsoarchitecture, arts museums art Aymara language557 198 Ayaviri ayahuasca 455,463,504 Arequipa (A-C) 568 INDEX birds 68-9 39,56,278 Bingham, Hiram bicycling, Benjamin Constant(Brazil)506 Belén 496-7 bears 70,366,404 beaches, bathrooms 525 Batán Grande366-7 547 bartonellosis Barranca 337-9 bargaining 524 Baltimore 473 Balsas 441 Bagua Chica441 bag-snatching 514-15 B 000 Photograph pages pages 000 Map painting, pottery,textiles dance,literature, cinema, crafts, Lima 92,93-4,99 Cuzco 231,233 Yanahuara 167 travel within187 travel to/from185-7 travel to/from317,324-5 shopping 324 food 323-4 festivals 321 320-1 attractions accommodations 321-3 south coast126-7,148,149,150 coast340,372,376,378-9 north Lima area 101,123 see alsosurfing continued see cycling 319 books, Bolivia Bolívar, Simón39-40,372 boleto turístico boleto religioso 477 Boca Manu boat travel536-7 bites bird-watching folk tales41 environmental issues73 Cuzco School38 cocaine 76 birds 68,69,71 archaeological sites20,22,29 animals 68,69,71,77 467 Riberalta Heath467 Puerto Acosta215 Puerto TiticacaLake 213-18 Copacabana 213-17 Cobija 467 border crossings214,467 to/from Peru 534 Pucallpa 488-9 Iquitos 501-2 Amazon Basin497-8,537 mosquito 544,545-6,549-50 547 insect animal 546,548-9 Tingo 333 María NacionalLagunasde Santuario NacionalTambopataReserva 473 NacionaldeParacas 131 Reserva EcológicaChaparrí366 Reserva Pizarro 386-7 Puerto area 476,478,479 Manu Luquina Chico213 Laguna deSalinas194 Lago Valencia 471 Lago Umayo206 Lago deJunín327 Islas Ballestas131 Iquitos area 505,506 Cuzco 236 Colpa deGuacamayos471 Ayabaca 375 Abra P macaws 69,474, hummingbirds 70,450,451,452 hoatzin 470 books 68,69,71 Andean condors69,187-8,190-1, Mejía 150 Mejía 366, 404 see alsoliterature atricia conservation area 452 conservation atricia 188,229 229 7 Cápac, Manco 34,217,220 Cápac, Manco Cápac, Huayna35,221 canyon country187-94, Canta 328 Cañón delColca187-92,193-4, 170,489 canoeing &kayaking Cañete 127 Camaná 148-9 Callejón deConchucos409 Cajatambo 421-2 Cajamarca 429-37,430 Cajabamba 438-9 Cachora 294 Cabo Blanco376 Cabanaconde 191-3 C butterflies 71,503 butterflies business hours512 bus travel bullfighting 56,94,185 Bryce Echenique,Alfredo 51 bricheros 252 breastfeeding 512 Brazil boxing 57 border crossings534 travel to/from437 shopping 436 history 429-31 food 436 436 drinking 431 attractions accommodations 434-6 within Peru 538-9,540 to/from Peru 533-4 dangers 516 Tabatinga 506 border crossings466,506 Benjamin Constant506 Ecuador 376,382,386,442 Colombia 506 Chile 158 Brazil 466,506 Bolivia 214,467 402 trekking travel 20,22 32 textiles LuminosoSendero 47 plants 72,73 176,420 mountaineering 43 Internal Conflict Inca civilization35,36,37 health 543 food 58,60,61,62,63 18/12/2009 11:18:25 AM 160 176