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A Development of Yarn from Thai Silk Waste to Create Knitted Fabric A DEVELOPMENT OF YARN FROM THAI SILK WASTE TO CREATE KNITTED FABRIC By MRS. Peeraya SRAMALA A Thesis Submitted in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for Doctor of Philosophy DESIGN ARTS (INTERNATIONAL PROGRAM) Graduate School, Silpakorn University Academic Year 2017 Copyright of Graduate School, Silpakorn University การพัฒนาเส้นด้ายจากเศษไหมไทยเหลือใช้เพื่อสร้างสรรค์ผลิตภัณฑ์ผ้าถัก โดย นางพีรยา สระมาลา วทิ ยานิพนธ์น้ีเป็นส่วนหน่ึงของการศึกษาตามหลกั สูตรปรัชญาดุษฎีบณั ฑิต สาขาวิชาศิลปะการออกแบบ แบบ 1.1 ปรัชญาดุษฎีบัณฑิต(หลักสูตรนานาชาติ) บัณฑิตวิทยาลัย มหาวิทยาลัยศิลปากร ปีการศึกษา 2560 ลิขสิทธ์ิของบณั ฑิตวทิ ยาลยั มหาวิทยาลัยศิลปากร A DEVELOPMENT OF YARN FROM THAI SILK WASTE TO CREATE KNITTED FABRIC By MRS. Peeraya SRAMALA A Thesis Submitted in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for Doctor of Philosophy DESIGN ARTS (INTERNATIONAL PROGRAM) Graduate School, Silpakorn University Academic Year 2017 Copyright of Graduate School, Silpakorn University Title A Development of Yarn from Thai Silk Waste to Create Knitted Fabric By Peeraya SRAMALA Field of Study DESIGN ARTS (INTERNATIONAL PROGRAM) Advisor Namfon Laistrooglai Graduate School Silpakorn University in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Doctor of Philosophy Dean of graduate school (Associate Professor Jurairat Nunthanid, Ph.D.) Approved by Chair person (Professor Eakachat Joneurairatana ) Advisor (Assistant Professor Namfon Laistrooglai , Ph.D.) Co Advisor (Associate Professor Pairoj Jamuni , Ed.D.) External Examiner (Professor Peter Pilgrim , MDesRCA, MCSD. FRSA.) D ABST RACT 57155953 : Major DESIGN ARTS (INTERNATIONAL PROGRAM) Keyword : Thai silk waste/ yarn/ knitted fabric MRS. PEERAYA SRAMALA : A DEVELOPMENT OF YARN FROM THAI SILK WASTE TO CREATE KNITTED FABRIC THESIS ADVISOR : ASSISTANT PROFESSOR NAMFON LAISTROOGLAI, Ph.D. 57155953: MAJOR: DESIGN ARTS KEY WORD: THAI SILK WASTE / YARN/ KNITTED FABIC PEERAYA SRAMALA: A DEVELOPMENT OF YARN FROM THAI SILK WASTE TO CREATE KNITTED FABRIC. THESIS ADVISORS: ASST. PROF. NAMFON LAISTROOGLAI, Ph.D., AND ASSOC PROF.PAIROJ JAMUNI, Ed.D. 189 pp. This research aimed to develop yarn from Thai silk waste to create knitted fabric. The methodology of this research was related to “practice to design.” It consisted of two parts; the first part involved the collecting of information related to Thai silk waste and its benefits. The second part involved experimenting to determine a suitable method and related equipment for the production of yarn and knitted fabric through a craft and industrial process. The process required fiber preparation, spinning, dying, knitting, fabric property testing and creating a new yarn and knitted fabric . The results of the study show that the solid waste produced from Thai silk can be classified into three types: Incomplete cocoons, broken silk yarn, and silk fabric waste. Generally, this waste has been re-used in manufacturing for items such as fashion accessories and decorative products. Regarding the experiment, the results suggest fiber preparation through the craft process was superior to the industrial process. Yarn spinning was carried out by using a traditional Thai hand spinner to be single yarn, ply yarn, core yarn. This process was able to create unlimited forms, textures, and colors. Moreover, dyeing different types of silk waste, silk hankies, roving and yarn produced a variety of colors. Besides, shade and value were done by mordant. The knitting process was accomplished through hand knitting and a domestic knitting machine. The process produced basic and applied fabric structures and was able to create texture and form with thick, thin, three-dimensional, complex and continual structures. The character of fabric was shown to be shiny, sticky, lightweight and flexible. The results obtained from this research can be beneficial and used as a guideline for create knitted fabric. In addition, the information gained from the craft process can be utilized by villagers for small-scale production and also by the Thai silk industry. The results from this study can be aid the recognition of the value of waste products from their business and thus assist in the reduction of environmental damage. E ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS I would like to acknowledge my indebtedness and render my warmest thanks to my advisor, Assistant Professor Namfon Laistrooglai, Who made this work possible. Her friendly guidance and expert advice have been invaluable throughout all stages of the work. I would also wish to express my gratitude to the member of my thesis advisory and exam commitee: Associate Professor Pairoj Jamuni, an expert in art theory, for his crucial remarks that shaped my final dissertation. Professor Eakachat Joneurairatana, for his insightful comments and for sharing with me his tremendous experience in the artistic and design field. Professor Peter Pilgrim for extended discussions and valuable suggestions which have contributed greatly to improvement of this thesis. My sincere thanks also goes to 1. Faculty of Textile Industries, Rajamangala University of Technology Krungthep 2. Faculty of Industrial Textile Fashion Design Rajamangala, University of Technology Phra Nakhon 3. Miss.Anaya Kaononkok, Nongbuadang Natural Color community enterprise group, Chaiyaphum province. for the support materials, tools and facilities for dyeing, spinning experiments and design production. Spacial thanks must go to Rajamangala University of Technology Krungthep for the financial support Last but not least, I would like to express my deepest gratitude to my family and friends. This thesis would not have been possible without their warm love, continued patience, and endless support. Peeraya SRAMALA TABLE OF CONTENTS Page ABSTRACT .................................................................................................................. D ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS .......................................................................................... E TABLE OF CONTENTS ............................................................................................... F List of Diagram .............................................................................................................. I List of Figure.................................................................................................................. J Chapter 1 Introduction ................................................................................................... 1 Statement of the problem ........................................................................................... 1 Objectives of the research .......................................................................................... 3 Scope of the study ...................................................................................................... 3 Research Methodology .............................................................................................. 4 Research outcome ...................................................................................................... 5 Dissertation Structure ................................................................................................ 5 Chapter 2 ........................................................................................................................ 6 Literature review ............................................................................................................ 6 Silk and silk waste ..................................................................................................... 7 Introduction to silk .............................................................................................. 7 A Definition and classification of silk waste ..................................................... 10 The silk waste utilization ................................................................................... 13 Spun silk : machine spinning method ................................................................ 15 Spun silk : hand spinning method ..................................................................... 17 Yarn type and yarn design by hand spinning method ....................................... 26 Silk dyeing: natural dye stuff ............................................................................ 37 Thai silk and Thai silk waste ................................................................................... 43 Introduction of Thai silk .................................................................................... 43 Thai silk waste ................................................................................................... 45 G Thai Silk waste utilization ................................................................................. 47 Spinning Thai silk waste ................................................................................... 49 Natural dyes silk in Thailand ............................................................................. 50 The knitted fabric ..................................................................................................... 53 Introduction of knitted fabric ............................................................................ 53 Knitted fabric types ........................................................................................... 53 Knitting tools ..................................................................................................... 55 Knitted fabric structure and pattern ..................................................................
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