Tierärztliche Praxis Vol 40, 2020

Review on functional characteristics of and silk blended fabrics

T Sathish Kumar 1, Dr. M Ramesh Kumar2, Dr. B Senthil Kumar 3

1 Research Scholar, Dept of Fashion Technology, Sona College of Technology, Salem – 636005, Tamilnadu, India.E.Mail: [email protected] 2 Associate Professor, Dept of Fashion Technology, Sona College of Technology, Salem – 636005, Tamilnadu, India.E.Mail: [email protected] 3Head Centre for Apparel Research and Education, NIFT TEA Knitwear Fashion Institute, Tirupur – 641 606, Tamilnadu, India.E.Mail: [email protected]

Abstract A significant protein is Silk in the industry. It is utilized for fragile applications in numerous territories, similar to sarees, suiting, curtains and luxurious interiors. Functional property is a substantial part of any texture implied for active cloths, which chooses the level of that texture. Thermal property is a major part of whichever texture obscure for textile industry, which chooses as the comfort level of that fabric. A survey of studies are introduced in the assessment of functional properties, for example, thermal, physical, moisture and handle properties of pure silk and mixed with different fabrics. The crucial contrasts in functional properties among silk and silk mixed fabrics are featured with their consequent distinctive fabric functional properties. The review likewise detailed the connection between physical, thermal, moisture, and handle properties of silk and silk mixed fabrics. From this review article, it is very well noticed that silk blended fabric is contrasted and 100% silk for a portion of the functional properties the silk blended fabric gives the calculable outcomes contrasted and the 100% silk fabric. This paper expects to be a reference for the future related examinations. Keywords: silk, physical, thermal, moisture, handle properties

1. Introduction Silk is a well-knowntextile fiber known as the "Queen of " for its luster, luxuryappeal, comfort, elegance, sensuousness and glamour. Silk's natural beauty, excellentdrape ability, properties of comfort and maintenance of warmth during winters have made it is looked for after fiber for high-design apparel.

ISSN: 0303-6286 2360 Tierärztliche Praxis Vol 40, 2020

Figure 1.Classification of silk . (Source: http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/B978-1-78242-311-9.00001-X) Fig. 1. Classification of silk fibers. In generally utilized textilefibers are displayed in Fig. 1, order of material filaments. The broadly utilized material filaments are appeared in Fig. 1, characterization of textile fibers. Silk fibers make them outstanding properties that rival the most developed synthetic polymers; in any case, the creation of silk doesn't require brutal handling conditions. Silk fiber is discharged by a few types of insects in order to build productive structures outside to their body, known as cocoons. is the term utilized for the agricultureactivities related with the creation of silk. Sericulture is labour- intensiveagriculture based unified industry with sequences of environmentally cordial procedures to create silk fiber. Silk is one of the most established known textile fibers. As per the Chinese, it was utilized as some time in the past as the twenty-seventh century BC and Silk is originally to the native of ; for a long time, the production of silk is a secret procedure known uniquely to the Chinese. China effectively protected the secret until when Japan and India found it in 300 AD. By and by, worldwide creation of silk is around 153 MT (metric ton), and around 20 nations of the world produce silk. China, with 126 MT, is the biggest producer and exporter of silk on the planet. India is the second-biggest silk-producing nation, with a yearly silk production around 23 MT [1]. The life cycle of silk worm is displayed in Fig. 2, egg, larva, pupa and adult these four phases include in life cycle.

ISSN: 0303-6286 2361 Tierärztliche Praxis Vol 40, 2020

Figure 2.The life cycle of the silkworm. (Source:Manjula Harapanahalli1, N. VasugiRaaja 2016) Fig. 2. The life cycle of the silkworm. 1.2. Silk fiber Silk fibers from silkworms have been utilized in textiles for about 5000 years. In short, there square measure four varieties of natural silk created around the world: Mulberry silk, , Tasar silk and Muga silk. Mulberry silk contributes around the maximum amount as 90% of silk production, with the mulberry silkworm typically being thought tobe the foremost necessary. 1.2.1. Mulberry silk

Fig. 3. a) Mulberry silk worm b) moth, and c) cocoons. (Source: DOI : 10.1533/9781782421580.1) Mulberry silk shows in Fig. 3, the bulk of the economic silk produced within the world comes from this variety. Mulberry silk comes from the silkworm , which feeds solely at the leaves of the mulberry plant. These silkworms are completely domesticated and reared indoors. In India, the fundamental mulberry-silk-generating states are Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, West Bengal, Tamil Nadu, Jammu and Kashmir, which collectively account for 92% of the country’s general mulberry raw silk production. Bombyx mori, the domesticated silkworm, has been reared for over 2000 years. During this long history many mutations have occurred. The procedure of mutation has ended in a mixture of diverse genes generating a massive range of silkworm races [2].

ISSN: 0303-6286 2362 Tierärztliche Praxis Vol 40, 2020

1.2.2. Tasar silk

Fig. 4. a) Tasar silk worm b) moth, and c) cocoons. (Source: DOI : 10.1533/9781782421580.1) Tasar silk shows in Fig. 4, Tasar (Tussah) is coarse silk of copperish colour, specially used for furniture and interiors. It is less lustrous than mulberry silk, however has its own feel and appeal. Tasar silk is generated with the aid of the silkworm Antheraea mylitta, which thrives at the food plants Asan and Arjun. Silkworms are reared on trees inside the open. In India, tasar silk is mainly produced inside the states of Jharkhand, Chhattisgarh and Orissa [3].

1.2.3. Eri silk

Fig. 5. Eri a) silk worm b) moth, and c) cocoons. (Source: DOI : 10.1533/9781782421580.1)

Eri silk shows in Fig. 5, Eri is additionally called Endi or Errandi, Eri could be a multivoltine silk spun from open-ended cocoons, not like different types of silk. Eri silk is that the product of the domesticated silkworm, Philosamia ricini that feeds in the main on castor leaves. Like tasar, the cocoon varies in color, size and softness. The soft cocoons are suitable for mechanical spinning and more durable and larger cocoons are a lot of applicable for hand spinning. In India eri is cultivated in the main within the north- eastern states. Eri silk has each the softness of alternative and therefore the insulating properties of wool, creating it a promising silk species for additional business development [3]. 1.2.4. Muga silk

Fig. 6. Muga a) silk worm b) moth, and c) cocoons. (Source: DOI : 10.1533/9781782421580.1) Muga silk shows in Fig. 6, This golden yellow silk is that the exclusive right of Republic of India and is that the pride of state state. It’s obtained from semi-domesticated multivoltine silkworm, genus Antheraea assamensis . These silkworms kill the aromatic

ISSN: 0303-6286 2363 Tierärztliche Praxis Vol 40, 2020

leaves of Kyrgyzstani monetary unit and Soalu plants and square measure reared on trees just like that of the tasar. Muga silk could be a high-value product and is employed within the manufacture of merchandise like sarees, mekhalas and chaddars [3].

Fig. 7. SEM images of Longitudinal and cross section of different types of silks. (Source: https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-1-78242-311-9.00002-1) Figure 7, shows the SEM images of Longitudinal and cross section of mulberry, tasar, eri and muga ofsilks. Mulberry silk fibers have a swish, uniform longitudinal look and triangular cross section, as painted by the SEM pictures. fibers have a big rough surface, and fibrillar striations may be detected within the longitudinal directions for tasar silk fibers. All the wild silk fibers show a flat, elongated triangular-like cross- sectional look, with the presence of voids within the fibers, as pictured by the SEM pictures.

Fig. 8. SEM images of cross-sectional form of different types of silks. (Source: FAO, 1972; AATCC Test Method 20-2011, 2013) Figure 8, shows the SEM images of cross-sectional form of mulberry, tasar, eri and muga silks. Cross-sectional form is a vital parameter within the identification of silk and its kind. The longitudinal shape is either cylindrical or flat, relying upon the kind of silk. The mulberry is cylindrical; tasar, eri, and muga are flat. The cross-sectional form of mulberry is triangular; tasar, eri. The identification of silk and its kind is predicated on the cross-sectional form of fibers when the confirmation of silk by the chemical dissolution technique. Silks are fibrous proteins, which are spun into fibers by an assortment of insects and spiders. The mechanical properties of silk fibers comprise of a blend of high quality, extensibility, and compressibility [4, 5]. Bombyx mori silkworm silk, a representative animal fiber of luster and fineness, has been used in the textile industry for centuries. It is fundamentally comprises of a fibrous core protein named fibroin, and a group of glue-like proteins named sericin that encompasses the fibroin threadsto cementthem mutually. The high crystallinity of b-sheets (ca. half)

ISSN: 0303-6286 2364 Tierärztliche Praxis Vol 40, 2020

and the well direction of thesenano crystallites in the corefilament [6] give silkworm silk its exceptional mechanical properties,particularly strength and extensibility. Various types of silkworms exist in nature that can be raised for their silk. These incorporate Bombyx mori, Antheraea mylitta, Philosamiasynthiaricini, and Antheraea assamensis. The tamed Bombyx mori silkworm, which takes care of just on mulberry leaves, is simpler to rear contrasted with the other wild species. Being a characteristic biodegradablematerial, Bombyx mori silkworm silk strands create no harmful waste material; Bombyx mori silkworm silk strands create no harmful waste underway and are less expensive to deliver than manufactured filaments. This makes them an attractive option in alternative tothe synthetic fibers. In spite of the fact that it may not be practically identical in strength, Bombyx mori silkworm silk has the benefit of being more ductile than synthetic fibers. All things considered, it might even now be utilized in applications that are less on stringent tensile strength but requires higher elongation. Subsequent to bring forth from the eggs, Bombyx mori silkworm hatchlings experience an aggregate of four rounds of shedding before they begin to turn silk to shape covers. On cocooningfor several days, the pupae are then stifled by heat to keep them from developing out of their covers with the goal that the silk can be reeled into and woven into fabric [7]. The structure of Bombyx mori silk comprises of two fundamental chains of fibroins protein made parallel bundles of nanofibrils. Fibroin is coated with the sticky sericin protein [8]. The chemical composition of fibroin comprises of the amino acids glycine, alanine, and serine present as beta sheets.High-tensile of silkworm silk is ascribed to two fundamental reasons. Firstly, the huge amount of little sized glycine molecule creates a firmly and effectively stuffed structure. Furthermore, the broad system of solid hydrogen bonds inside the fibroins chains renders the silk filaments' high strength and stretching. The sticky sericin is responsible for presenting anti oxidation anti-bacterial properties, UV resistance, and hydrophilicity [9].The silk fiber when degumming contains fibroin supermolecule. This fibroin consists of concerning twenty totally different amino acids [10]. Glycine (about 44%), followed by amino acid (about 29%), square measure the most amino acids gift within the mulberry silk fibroin; whereas in wild silks, amino acid (about 40%), followed by glycine (about 25%), square measure the best aminoalkanoic acid gift. Aminoalkanoic acid and glutaminic acid square measure the acidic amino acids, whereas essential amino acid, histidine, and essential amino acid square measure the fundamental amino acids that square measure gift in higher proportions within the silk fibroin of untamed silks. alternative amino acids gift in silk fibroin square measure neutral in nature. Table 1. Composition of silk cocoon shells (%). Component Mulberry Tasar Muga Eri Fibroin 66-72 78-85 80-86 82-88 Sericin 25-32 14-17 12-16 11-13 Wax 0.3-0.4 1-2 0.5-1 1.5-2.2 Minerals, ash, and others 0.7-0.8 3-4 2-3 2-3

Source: http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/B978-1-78242-311-9.00001-X (N.V. Padaki, B. Das, A. Basu) Advances in Silk Science and Technology. (2015) Table 1 shows the composition of silk cocoon shells (%). From the Table 1, it is observed that fibroin % (crystalline) is higher for wild silks and sericin % (gum) also less than mulberry silk wax % is higher than mulberry silk and minerals and ash % is also higher for wild silks.

ISSN: 0303-6286 2365 Tierärztliche Praxis Vol 40, 2020

Likewise, the homogeneous physicochemical properties of silkworm silk as a continuous fiber take into fabrication facilities through filament winding and pultrusion processes. Currently, silkworm silk has gotten attention as a filling material in composites [11]. Commercial silk texture experiences the wetting issue of curved fibroin strings in the lattice, both of which may bring about the uncompetitive mechanical of the revealed silk composites [12]. Recently, worldwide creation of silk is around 153 MT (metric ton), and around 20 nations of the Table 2 shows the presents global silk production data from 2015 to 2018 for the top five silk-producing countries. Table 2. Global raw silk production (MT). Country 2015 2016 2017 2018 China 84,000 115,000 104,000 126,000 India 19,690 21,005 23,060 23,679 Brazil 811 770 558 614 Uzbekistan 780 940 940 940 655 655 655 655 World 106,169 139,118 129,684 152,868 (Source: http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/B978-1-78242-311-9.00001-X) (N.V. Padaki, B. Das, A. Basu) Advances in Silk Science and Technology.(2015) China, with 126 MT, is the biggest maker and exporter of silk on the globe. India is the second-biggest silk-delivering nation, with a yearly silk creation of around 23 MT. (Global Silk Production Statistics, 2013).

Figure 4.The percentage of different silks grown in India. (Source:Manjula Harapanahalli1, N. VasugiRaaja 2016) Fig. 9. The percentage of different silks grown in India. Fig. 9 shows the Surveys exhibit the % of silk grown in india.Mulberry multivoltine is grown 90% which takes the top pest of all verities of silk grown. Secondly Eri silk is cultivated which occupies 10% of production whereas Mulberry bivoltine, Tasar and Muga are cultivated which are less than 10%. 1.3. Blended silk fabrics The interest of mixed silk fabric is increasing step by step, because of the continually increasing cost of silk fabric. Thus, novel explicit innovations are expected to make materials with new propelled functionalities and ecological responsiveness [13]. This would make the conjugation of silk and synthetic fabrics more popular in the market [14]. Silk proteins are natural polymers, and are biodegradable withreactive functional groups, permitting the chance of them to be cross-linked with different polymers to be utilized in controlled conveyance [15]. The polymer chains of silk fibroin structure β- sheet structures. Silk fiber is remarkably crystalline in nature [16]. The mechanical strength of silk fiber is in the scope of 1.9-5.2 g/den. Silk fiber is thin, long, light, and

ISSN: 0303-6286 2366 Tierärztliche Praxis Vol 40, 2020

soft. It is notable for its water retentiveness, coloring fondness, water absorbency, dyeing affinity, thermo resistances, insulation properties, and luster [17]. Silk contains numerous favorable properties of the sumptuous, having colors in delightful and rich hues, and being absorbent, strong, reasonably wrinkle resistant, mildew and moth resistant, and not liquefying. However, silk has the accompanying impediments: being debilitated by sunlight, sweat, and chlorine blench, absorbing body oils and grease stains, being influenced by high temperature, yellowing and blurring with age, being liable to assault via cover insects except if treated as being influenced by high temperatures, losing quality when wet, waiting to be squeezed with a press material, being shading harmed by hair shower, and being harmed by fragrances [18]. Silk proteins are characteristic polymers, and are biodegradable with responsive practical groups, permitting the chance of them to be cross-connected with different polymers to be utilized in controlled conveyance. The polymer chains of silk fibroin structure are β-sheet structures. Silk fiber is profoundly crystalline in nature.

Fig. 10. Polypeptide chain of fi broin molecule. Figure 10, shows the polypeptide chain of a fibroin molecule. The crystalline phase consists of sections of polypeptide chains containing glycine, alanine and serine. Silk has the following conditions such as being debilitated by sunlight, sweat, and chlorine fade, engrossing body oils and oil stains, being influenced by water spots, yellowing and blurring with age, being subject to assault via carpet beetles except if treated, being influenced by high temperatures, losing quality when wet, requiring be squeezed with a press fabric, being color harmed by hair spray, and being harmed by scents. Both fibroin and sericin are created by extremely huge straightened cells which coating a couple of long cylindrical silk gland as appeared in Fig. 11.

(Source: http://hdl.handle.net/10603/33119) Fig. 11. Different regions of the eri silk gland. Figure 11, shows the three different regions of silk gland like anterior silk gland (AGS), middle silk gland (MSG) and poster silk gland (PSG). 2. Thermal properties of silk and silk blended fabrics Silk fiber is thermally stable below a 100°C. A high degree of molecular orientation of silk fibroin aids the thermal stability of the silk fiber. Yellowing begins to occur in silk fibers at 110°C once 15 min of exposure [19]. Silk fabrics are described by quality, solidness, less wrinkle and more elasticity. Silk has explicit thermal property, which makes its elective fiber wool. The Eri mill spun can create from arrangement of spinning. The yarn count ranges from 2/10s Nm to 2/210s Nm [20]. The eri fabric is a magnificent material for shirting, suiting, bed spreads, curtains and

ISSN: 0303-6286 2367 Tierärztliche Praxis Vol 40, 2020

different furnishings and it have incredible dimensional and thermo-physiological solace properties [21]. Thermal conductivity is characterized as the warmth transmitted through a unit territory at a temperature angle for each unit length. Thermal conductivity is a characteristic property of a fabric which demonstrates its capacity to direct warmth. It is the motion of warmth partitioned by the temperature angle. Thermal absorptive is a target estimation of the warm-cool feeling of fabrics, to portray the thermalfeeling during the moment of contact of the human skin with the texture surface. Low absorptivity esteems demonstrate a warm feeling, which is wanted for winter fabrics, while high absorptivity esteems show cool inclination, which is wanted for summer fabrics. Thermal resistance is a proportion of a material's capacity to keep heat from moving through it. Thermal resistance is a significant parameter and is incredibly affected by fabric structure. Increment in fabric thickness will impacts in increment in thermal protection, as there will be a decline in heat misfortunes for the space protected by the texture structure.The thermal resistance of dress as a lot of textile materials relies upon the thickness and porosity of specific layer. Since changes in the porosity of standard textile materials which utilized in dress are not enormous, the all-out thermal resistance of attire is impacted by the material thickness [22]. The glow of a fabric is because of protection given via air caught among fibres and yarns. Fabrics from strain fiber yarns evacuate heat quickly by conduction when set beside the skin. Fabrics from bushy yarns feel warm on contact with the skin because of the protecting air held between the fabricfibers and the skin [23]. Human thermal insulation relies upon a blend of dress, atmosphere, and physical movement. The glow of a fabric is because of protection given via air caught among fibers and yarns. Fabrics from straight fiber yarns expel heat quickly by conduction when set beside the skin and in such a manner produce an alleged cool feel or handle. This phenomenon happens only for a minute in light of the fact that the skin adjusts quickly to mild incitements. Fabrics from hairy yarns feel warm on contact with the skin because of the protecting air held between the fabric fibers and the skin [24]. The thermal solace of single jersey, 1 × 1 rib and interlock structures.The general conclusion of these examinations was that 1 × 1 rib and interlock fabrics, because of their high thermal insulation esteems, ought to be favored for winter garments of so as to shield from the virus. Looking at 1 × 1 rib and interlock fabrics, it is smarter to utilize 1 × 1 rib fabrics for a warmer feeling on first contact. Then again, single jersey structures would be picked for dynamic games or summer garments of clothing. The thermal properties of 1 × 1, 2 × 2 and 3 × 3 rib knit fabrics are analyzed [25,26]. They noticed that a decline in the rib number prompts a diminishing in heat loss, which might be because of an expansion in air captured in the texture, for example a bulkier structure. In the event that the structure between the rib knit stitches (front and back stitch) has a level shape, the utilization of 1 × 1 rib and a tight structure would give better thermal protection against chilly climate [27].Thermal contact feeling of woolen fabrics is firmly influenced by the raising treatment, which is the last procedure of making regular fluffy fabrics. The yarn type and fiber mix (unadulterated cotton and PET/ cotton) is less significant.Silk fiber degrade at 3 main stages (i) ranging from 52°C, the wetness absorbed throughout storage are going to be free from the silk fibers; (ii) during a second transition, from 265 to 350°C, the silk fibers bear degradation; and (iii) from 350°C onward, the silk fibers begin to decompose [28]. The 100% silk and silk blended fabric colored with natural colors (indigo, kumkum, and bar berry) and synthetic colors (reactive (M), reactive (H), and sulfur), the following ends are shown up at; The K/S esteems are generally comparable in both the 100 % silk fabric and silk blended fabric, however the fastness properties (wash, light and rubbing) are very less in the silk blended fabrics, because of the presence of polyester material. In

ISSN: 0303-6286 2368 Tierärztliche Praxis Vol 40, 2020

the general fastness properties, washing fastness is more contrasted and the comparing light and rubbingfast nesses. The antimicrobial character of silk blended fabric colored with both regular color (indigo, kumkum, and bar berry) and synthetic color (responsive color (M and H) and sulfur) are acceptable when contrasted and the comparing 100% silk fabric. The silk and its blended fabric gives great estimations of air permeability, because of the presence of lyocellinis the blended fabric, which encourages the expansion of air permeability esteems. There is generally an excellent UV protection classification for the colored and completed silk and silk blended fabrics[29]. Structural and thermal properties of silk fibroin films obtained from cocoon and waste silk fibers as raw material the analysis point of that water annealing structures in SS films varies with the raw material and water annealing treatment. This fact respect a progress in the development of processing alternatives to control SF materials structure and properties [30]. Silk is the great protector of warmth among the textile fibers; the particular warmth of dry silk fiber is 1.38 J/g K [31], which is hardly superior to cotton (1.3 J/g K) and wool (1.36 J/g K). The thermal conductivity of mulberry silk fiber in longitudinal (KL) and transverse (KT) course are 1.49 and 0.119 W/(mK) individually, resulting in anisotropic proportion (KL/KT) of 12.64, which demonstrate high direction of fibroin particles along the bearing of the fiber. The thermal conductivity of silk along the transverse direction is poor contrasted with 0.165 W/(mK) of wool and 0.243 W/(mK) of cotton. Because of the lower thermal conductivity and high moisture recapture of silk fibers, the solace level of wearing silken things are diminished in hot and humid conditions. Eri silk have phenomenal thermal properties and offers gigantic mixing prospects with other normal silks, fleece, cotton, jute and synthetic fibres. Mixes of eri with bastfibres and polyester and furthermore association fabrics with polyester and cotton open another horizon for broadening of items other than wrappers and scarfs. The created materials would be less expensive and a craftsman can hope to pick up and learn more for a subsistence living.[32]. The influence of knitting process parameters on the Thermal comfort properties of Eri silk knitted fabrics.It is clearly evident that the four commercial verities of silk viz Mulberry,Tasar,Eri and Muga are produced only in India. When compared to the counterparts Eri silk possesses better softness, better thermal insulating properties and higher comfort. In this present paper the fabric property values were tabulated, the Eri silk yarn properties were mentioned and the Eri silk knitted fabric developed were produced in detail. The almost aim of this paper was to investigate the thermal comfort and wicking properties. The Thermal properties of the fabric were analyzed using an Alambeta instrument and the wicking ability was interpreted with a vertical wicking tester. The in depth study carried out had given the following consensus. An analogy between the Eri silk knitted fabrics and Mulberry silk knitted fabrics showed that the former have better thermal comfort properties and vertical wicking characteristics than the latter. It was also identified that the fabric weight and thickness were decreased while the yarn linear density was increased. The Thermal Conductivity and Thermal Resistance values of Eri silk were highly significant. It was also found that the vertical wicking had an influence on process variables like the knit structure and yarn count except the loop length .It was thus concluded that Eri silk had better comfort values[33]. The comfort properties of dyed mulberry silk/Cotton blended fabrics, although various silk types are present, Mulberry silk is one of the silk types known for its unique property. It is also well known that cotton pairs a good combination with this. This study aimed to investigates thermo physiological comfort properties such as air permeability, water vapor resistance, moisture management capability and thermal resistance of mulberry silk/cotton blended dyed fabrics. The ring and siro spinning system in three different

ISSN: 0303-6286 2369 Tierärztliche Praxis Vol 40, 2020

yarn counts with three different silk content values were utilized. The results obtained indicated that the increasing of silk ratio in the blend provided better thermal resistance and moisture management properties whereas lead to lower air permeability. It was clearly identified that possibility was available to develop fabric with good comfort properties by using high amount of silk within the structure. This was mainly due to the elegant characteristics of mulberry silk fiber such as thermal insulation and moisture absorption[34]. 3. Physical properties of silk and silk blended fabrics The significant physical qualities of various silks incorporate the silk fiber length, fiber fineness, and fiber density. Silk fibers are separated from a cocoon by a procedure known as reeling. During reeling, 8-10 parts of the silks filaments drawn from an individual cocoon are held together to frame a silk yarn of an ideal check. It is essential to know that how a lot of fiber length is accessible in each sort of cocoon for the way toward reeling. Nonbreaking fiber length (NBFL) is the length of silk fiber that is available consistently in the cocoon; it is basic so as to know the throwing recurrence while reeling process. It gives the all-out silk fiber length and NBFL accessible in each cocoon type recorded. The fineness of silk fibers are communicated as far as denier (mass of 9 km fiber communicated in grams). Mulberry silks are the best, trailed by eri, oak tasar, muga, and tasar silks are the coarsest of the silk filaments. There is a continuous lessening of fiber fineness from the external layer of the silk cocoon to the deepest layer. Fiber density estimations are utilizing as an angle section strategy uncovers that muga is the lightest, though mulberry silks have the most density among silk fibers. Not at all like the variety in fiber fineness along various layers of the cocoon, are unpretentious contrasts in the fiber density irrelevant. The objective evaluation of silk fabrics the results infer that on using the fabric low stress mechanical property measurements reported, it was possible to evaluate objectively and to compare the quality characteristics of the finished silk fabric tested[35].The chemical and physical properties of old silk was observed that the compression of the Japanese and occidental silk fabrics also provides insight into the effects that different methods of caring for silk objects home on their longevity [36].The influences of silk fabric wear factors or cause variables such as the applied load, speed and given size of abrasive media were evaluated and the results shows significant effect on the abrasive wear of silk fabric [37].The chemical and physical properties of sulfated silk fabrics it was observed that changes well more evident at longer reaction times > 2 hr [38].Cross section image of eri silk fibers and their secondary structure after treatment with different organic solvents. the result indicated SIC and the wall consider as higher strength than those of china charingmai and lampoon [39]. Tensile properties of eri/acrylic blended yarn and found that it is possible to spin eri/acrylic blended yarn at and found that.it is possible possible to spin eri/acrylic blended yarn at different blend ratio inring spinning system without difficulty it also tells that the closeness in their fineness values offers better compatibility in blending between them [40].The echo friendly finish on mechanical and comfort property of silk fabric. In this work neem, papaya, Mexican daisy leaves are selected for antimicrobial finish and it is the mechanical, comfort and antimicrobial activities of such herbs on silk fabric was evaluated and satisfactory results were observed [41]. The Bursting quality of fabrics produced using finer yarn is hardly higher as a result of expanded bend level. The pilling resistance of eri silk knitted fabrics are better when looked at cotton fabric and there is no distinction among structures and yarn count. The air penetrability of pique fabric is expanded because of porosity of structures. Numerous inquiries about notice that geometrical and dimensional parameters, for example, a circle

ISSN: 0303-6286 2370 Tierärztliche Praxis Vol 40, 2020

shape factor (straightforwardly influencing fiber direction), circle length and fabric snugness factor (legitimately affecting fiber volume portion) are significant parameters. The quantity of courses per cm and number of wales per cm has direct relations with the converse of the circle length; the relapse investigation has indicated that connection of courses per cm with circle length is increasingly critical. The yarn linear density is a dominating component which influences the thickness of knitted fabrics [42].Dimensional and physical properties of plain shirt fabrics produced using viscose sirospun and checked ring yarns. They saw that stitch density diminished and the weight expanded as the stitch length expanded, the spot of yarn has an impact on fabric properties [43].Thick and Eri silk union fabrics are conceivable outcome of weaving viscose rayon and Eri silk association fabrics and appraisal of mechanical and useful properties of union fabricswere concentrated by them. Viscose rayon of 75 d as twist and Eri silk of three distinctive yarn tallies viz. 2/40, 2/60 and 2/80 s as weft are woven on a self-loader power loom at Doddballapura of Bangalore District. An aggregate of four distinct arrangements of textures are delivered viz. viscose rayon × viscose rayon (control), viscose rayon × Eri silk 2/40s, viscoserayon × Eri silk 2/60s and viscose rayon × Eri silk of 2/80s. The outcomes uncovered that viscoserayon × Eri silk of 2/40s shows the most extreme thickness which might be because of coarser yarn tally and sporadic yarn surface and more noteworthy elasticity in twist and weft course might be a result of yarn piece of Eri silk, a spun silk with coarser yarn check. The protection from scraped area and most elevated estimation of wrap coefficient of viscose rayon × Eri silk of 2/40 s demonstrated better to other tests. In general execution of viscose rayon × Eri silk of 2/40 s union fabrics give better outcomes when contrasted with other tests[44]. Eri*Cotton (67:33) blended fabrics shows most elevated wrinkle recuperation. Tasar*Cotton and Muga*Cotton and Eri*cotton unionfabrics are good in physical and comfort properties (drape coefficient, pilling resistance, tear strength, dimensional stability). - cotton union fabrics is created by eco-friendly strategy and is stronger, delicate to wear and tough and is acceptable in all season. In this manner, Ahimsa silk - cotton union fabrics are as reasonable for making attire items as the union fabrics made of traditional silk - cotton. The advancement of union fabric can be an achievement in formation of assortment in fabric types in future, particularly supportable and moral fabric for clothing creation and to the style world. In a more extensive point of view, it will aid protection of our biological system and sound condition of planet for ages. Alongside this, these union fabrics are pocket agreeable, so these can be serve center salary gatherings of the general public in a superior and financial manner[45]. The course thickness (CPCM) and line thickness (SPCM) per cm are expanded fundamentally with the reduction in SL in both the single arouse and honeycomb structures, though the ridges thickness (WPCM) has insignificant effect. Eri silk yarn direct thickness has a positive impact with fasten thickness. Besides, it is seen that including take care of join the course line brings about an expansion in course thickness than ribs thickness, which may be on the grounds that fold circles pull the held circles descending, making them spread outward. An average of 10% expansion in line thickness is seen with honeycomb structures (take care of lines all course line) from the single provoke structure (take care of lines interchange course line). The fabrics areal thickness (grams per square meter) of eri silk weaved structures are impacted by the sewing procedure parameters, for example, yarn straight thickness, stitch length, and the fabrics structure, and this is as per the built up sew fabrics conduct. The thickness of the fabrics fluctuated with the fabrics structure and yarn direct thickness. It is noticed that the thickness was higher for the honeycomb than single provoke structure, and it was

ISSN: 0303-6286 2371 Tierärztliche Praxis Vol 40, 2020

comprehended that the fold lines increment the cumbersomeness of the fabrics. [46,47]. The recovered bamboo and mulberry silk, both fibers can be utilized to mix with various extents. Thinking about all the physical tests, all the mix extent shows better outcome, which is required for garments materials. From the aforementioned, it is very well may be construed that all the three extents can be utilized for delivering the mixed yarn. Mixing of bamboo with silk filaments offers superb degree for creating an assortment of materials for various utilizations have been accounted for already by Saikia [48]. Table 3. Tensile properties of silk fibers. Property Mulberry Tasar Muga Eri Initial modulus (gf/ den) 92 62 68 26 Tenacity (gf/ den) 4.5 3.9 4.2 3.1 Elongation at break (%) 19 28 30 22

Toughness (gf/ den) 0.6 0.9 1.1 0.5 (Source:https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-1-78242-311-9.00002-1) (N.V. Padaki, B. Das, A. Basu) Advances in Silk Science and Technology.(2015) Tensile properties of silk fibres shown in Table 3, Silk could be a sturdy fiber equivalent to the medium purpose artificial fibers nylon and polyesters. Silk is that the solely fiber accessible in an exceedingly filament form; not to mention sensible persistency, it's unequaled control for being a distinct segment comfort fiber with sturdy sturdiness credentials it's fascinating to notice that the wild silks possess higher elongation compared to mulberry silk. Ramachandran et al. studied the development of eri silk knitted garments for functional knitwear and reveals the yarn parameters suitable for knitting to enhance the knitting performance consistency [49]. 4. Moisture properties of silk and silk blended fabrics Moisture management property is a significant part of any fabric implied for active sportswear, which is chosen as the comfort level of that fabric. Each person sweats during various types of activities. A significant element of any fabric is the way it transfers this water out of the body, so who wears this feel great. So moisture management can be characterized as the controlled movement of water vapor and liquid water (sweat) from the body to the environment through the fabric. During strenuous body movement, the wearer sweats and the fabric worn beside skin will get wet. The sports and leisure wears exert an obstruction for proficient exchange of abundance heat bringing about an ascent in the center ofbody temperature and skin temperature (37oC) which increases perspiring. The abundance heat moistens the fabric, which at that point diminishes the body heat and weariness may set in among wearer. So the fabric worn beside skin ought to have two significant properties. The first property to evaporate the sweat from the skin surface and the second property is to move the moisture to the environment and cause the wearer to feel great. Moisture management the board frequently alludes to the vehicle of both moisturevapor and liquid away from the body. Basically, the quicker a fabric can wick moisture, the more surface area the moisture covers, thus permitting the vanishing of the moisture to happen quicker leaving the wearer dry and comfortable. Moisture transport properties of textile materials affect the thermo physiological solace of the wearer. Sew structures offer better thermo-physiological support just as high flexibility, are delicate to touch, and light in weight. Weaving construction parameters, for example, yarn linear density, stitch density and fabric structure have extraordinary effects on fabric porosity esteems, which affects the fabric air penetrability, wicking and moisture transmission qualities.[50].

ISSN: 0303-6286 2372 Tierärztliche Praxis Vol 40, 2020

The sewed fabric and the clothing shaped from the fabric give great moisture management, which controls the body temperature during high vigorous movement in warm climate. A few parts of weaved fabric construction produce these properties. To begin with, the hydrophilic nature and geometries of the spun and filamentary yarns give a high level of wicking; moisture transport and drying. Second, by rotating the filamentary and spun yarns (with inherent ''hairiness''), the spun yarns are kept from interlocking or trapping with each other. This makes transparency in the fabric, which advances higher moisture transport. Third, directing within face of the fabric occurs because of the firmness of the filament yarns. The channeling improves moisture movement toward the courses, which has been found to additionally expand the drying pace of fabric[51]. The absorbency of the various textile materials can be improved by utilizing chemical treatments. Mercerization of cotton fibers improved the absorbency of the corresponding fibers. During mercerization the crystal lattice changes from that of cellulose II, leaving of degrees of polymerization of cotton cellulose decreased, which is an answerable for this phenomenon. Not many preliminaries have been taken additionally to unite the cellulosic spine of cellulosic filaments by polyelectrolytes to make it excessively spongy[52].The another test technique, which is utilized to assess the moisture management properties of textiles. The guideline of the apparatus configuration depended on the physical rule that the surface contact electrical obstruction of fabrics change with the substance of a water based liquid arrangement close to the surface. As per AATCC 15 standard The estimation of the opposition relied upon two factors: the electrical conductivity of the liquid and the water content in the local areas of a fabric. At the point when a pre-defined weight (0.15g) of test arrangement is infused into the perspiration guard and introduced on with the upper side of the fabric, the sensor plates interfaced with a PC consistently recorded the progressions in electrical protections between each couple of proximate metal rings situated on the upper and lower surfaces exclusively. The liquid spreads in three ways subsequently to showing up at the fabric upper surface: (1) Spreading outward on the upper surface of the fabric; (2) Transferring through the fabric from the upper surface to the base surface; (3) Spreading outward on the lower surface of the fabrics and afterward vanishing. In light of the signs estimated, a lot of lists are estimated[53].At 20oC on a novel perspiring guarded hot plate, to research coupled warmth and moisture move through clothing gatherings with moisture ingestion and stage change. They found that the vast majority of the changes in temperature dissemination inside the fibrous battings sandwiched by internal and external layers of slight covering fabrics occur inside 30 min of exposure to cold conditions. Appropriations of temperature and water content inside the battings were influenced by the moisture assimilation properties of the fibers and the density or porosity of the battings. Moisture retention of the strands expands the temperature in the battings, and the greatest penetrability of the battings brings about a more prominent gathering of dense water in their outer regions. The impact of the penetrability of the covering fabric on heat loss and water content appropriation was moderately little. Coupled warmth and moisture move inside attire congregations in freezing conditions is an unpredictable blend of dampness assimilation, buildup and liquid water development. The trial examination revealed structures a reason for the hypothetical demonstrating and numerical reproduction [54]. Acquainted an improved technique with measure the progressions of water/fluid dampness content on the two surfaces of fabrics. The fabric tested was set between the two moisture sensors of a moisture managementanalyzer. A predefined measure of test arrangement (synthetic perspiration) was presented onto the top side of the fabrics which moved it in three ways of the fabrics. Utilizing the

ISSN: 0303-6286 2373 Tierärztliche Praxis Vol 40, 2020

estimating head with six rings, assurance of water content and the liquid moisture move conduct in a fabric at the two surfaces (top surface and bottom surface), just as the transport between these two surfaces were finished. A lot of files were determined and changed over from an incentive to review dependent on a five evaluation scale (1-5). The test results for the liquid moisture management properties of the testedfabrics was communicated by methods for the water content graph with file table, the unique mark with the grouping result, the multi-estimation profile and the guide of water area. So as to improve plans and material advancement, it was important to assess the presentation of multilayer chilly climate apparel troupes under genuine use conditions. At low temperatures, buildup consistently happened when a wearer sweats, and this impacts the warmth and moisture transfer attributes of clothing system [55]. The perspiring cylinder has the elements of a human upper arm and comparatively to the perspiring torso it tends to be run with either steady warming force or with consistent surface temperature with the possibility of perspiring. The estimations on the perspiring torso gave understanding into the dispersion of moisture in textile layers and furthermore into the vanishing conduct of the various mixes. This examination demonstrated that the moisture substance of a solitary layer was not just reliant on the textile properties of that specific layer, however chiefly on properties of the neighboring layers. Impacts of the moisture assimilation capacity of the clothing and wicking properties of the neighboring layer were superimposed [56]. The wearing performance of silk/cotton blended sports socks. The testing results showed that silk/cotton sports socks were comfortable and durable enough to wear [57].The optimization and surface modification of silk fabrics using plasma for improving wicking properties [58].The moisture management properties of eri silk knitted fabrics the OMMC indicates of eri silk knitted fabric are found to range from very good the excellent category which indicates the suitability of eri silk yarn to skin fit as well as active wear applications [59]. 5. Handle properties of silk and silk blended fabrics The effects of laundering on the sensory and mechanical properties of 1 × 1 rib knitwear fabrics. some of the factors that leads to consumer dissatisfaction with the washing performance of cotton, wool and acrylic knitwear’s they include weighting and stiffening of cotton by calcium phosphate deposits felting of shrink resist wool at normal machine agitation levels and stretching of acrylic in tumble drying [60].The handle of sensibility of woven silk fabrics. they found that the rough fabrics with warm touch are natural but those with cool touch show character. Fabrics evaluated as high in handle and purchasing preference for neckties show fast and flat touch and display modern and classic responsibilities [61]. The Fabric handle is profoundly identified with fabric structure,thought about four distinct structures of weft sew fabrics, and found that single jersey fabric was gentler, lighter and had a more extravagant hand than the other single sew fabrics. Utilizing the Kawabata Evaluation System (KES-F), they found that single jersey fabric was truly lighter and more slender and required less vitality to curve, pack and shear than the others. Sewn structure likewise influences some level of dimensional misshaping. Slackly weaved fabrics have a higher inclination to recoil more, accomplishing total unwinding at raised temperatures, than tight sews. Handle properties are worried about feel of the material thus relies on the feeling of touch. Various sorts of material will have a distinctive level of smoothness or harshness when the Silk fabrics handle is to be makes a decision about the sensation for firmness or hardness or non-abrasiveness, unpleasantness or smoothness are completely utilized. Factors of fabrics handle properties:

ISSN: 0303-6286 2374 Tierärztliche Praxis Vol 40, 2020

1. Weight and density: Weight per unit area (GSM) is considered. In the event that the fabric weight is high it will be difficult to feel when contrasted with low weight fabrics. Density quantifies the minimization or unwinding of fabrics. It the string thickness in the fabrics is more it will be increasingly minimized to low density. 2. Surface friction: It alludes to protection from be slipping either on the finger or on another bit of fabrics. For adjusted fabrics surface grating ought to be movable. Else it will make issue during preparing and utilizing. Fabrics differ in surface friction from harsh to slippery. 3. Flexibility: It refers instance of crushing of a fabrics. Fabrics shift in compressibility from soft to hard. 4. Compress ability: It refers instance of crushing of a fabrics. Fabrics shift in compress capacity from soft to hard[62]. Various kinds of material will have distinctive degree of smoothness or harshness when the Silk fabrics handle is to be makes a decision about the sensation for firmness or hardness or delicate quality, unpleasantness or smoothness are completely utilized. The surface qualities of undegummed and degummed Eri silk were contemplated utilizing SEM. The SEM images got at an amplification of 3000 x are displayed in Fig. 12.

(Source: https://doi.org/10.1080/15440478.2019.1612306) Fig. 12. SEM images of (a) undegummed silk fibres, and (b) degummed silk fibers. Different ways to deal with survey fabrics hand feel by physical strategies have been created over the most recent 50 years, for example, Kawabata, ring pull through, Handle- o-meter, drape coefficient and so on [63, 64]. The classical physical approach reenacts the hand by applying a physical power, for example, crushing, twisting, shearing and so on the fabrics to get an identical physical reaction. Another way to deal with evaluates fabrics hand feel is offered by the Tissue Softness Analyzer (TSA), which was created by Emtec Electronic GmbH. The hand feel can be assessed by estimating the sonic waves produced by applying a friction on the fabrics. The technique is settled in the quality controlin the cleanliness tissue part [65, 66]. Suitability of modified method for evaluating low stress mechanical properties of silk fabrics and thus found the treatments such as calendaring,decasting and stain guard ,also improve the total hand value of the silk fabrics [67].The effects of laundering and water temperature on the properties of silk and silk knitted fabrics. the study thus helped in examining of new and washed fabric using scanning electron microscopy suggested fibrillation and degradation of silk fibres may be affected by laundering. [68].Eri silk union fabric for various end uses and the results implicated that based on the weave fabric texture,handle of the combinations the diverse products were prepared from the woven fabrics and preference was taken. [69].The effects of ultrasonic laundering on the properties of silk fabrics and thus found that the colour change of stained silk fabrics after ultrasonic laundering,machine laundering and the laundering combined with pre washing.they also found that a good stain remove effect with satisfactory durable press appearance can be obtained for silk fabrics by laundering using ultrasonic energy instead of conventional washing [70].

ISSN: 0303-6286 2375 Tierärztliche Praxis Vol 40, 2020

Comfort and handle behavior of mulberry /wool blended fabrics for end use and found various winter suiting’s for both men and women were the most suitable end uses of union blended fabrics [71].Handle behavior of eri silk/wool blended fabrics developed for winter wear application. the result reveals that eri silk and wool blended fabrics show excellent handle value and firmness and smoothness characteristics compared to pure wool or pure eri silk fabrics [72]. Apparels from silk waste and pineapple leaf fibres was investigated that appearance of PALF with silk waste was excellent.Teture and lusture were found to be from medium to moderate. about 95% of responding found that the fabric was crisp [73].Understanding morphology next to skin comfort end change of properties during washing of knitted blends of eri silk. The results suggest that eri silk fiber are best suited to blending with other protein fibers of similar fibers diameter and extra controls are required to ensure that the eri fibres remain on the surface of the yarn, not migrate to the interior [74]. Fabrics hand has been characterized as subjective of a textile acquired from the sense of touch. It is worried about the subjective judgment of unpleasantness, smoothness, cruelty, flexibility, thickness, and so forth [75]. Peirce portrayed hand just like the judgment of the purchaser which relies upon time, spot, design and individual preferences. In this manner, supplanting human assessors with physical testing would be useless. Be that as it may, what human fingers sense relies upon the physical properties of fabrics, hence target estimations can give a premise whereupon to practice judgment. Decisions of fabrics handle are utilized as the reason for assessing quality and solace and along these lines for deciding fabrics esteem inside the material garments and related businesses. The term 'comfort' is an increasingly broad term that infers numerous parts of human-related attire execution including fabrics handle. While comfort infers understanding after some time with the garments before condemning its exhibition, handle suggests an underlying assessment of the clothing preceding condemning its intrigue. Handle fundamentally mirrors a mechanical association between human skin and fabrics wherein both the fabrics surface and the material mass are in effect suddenly tried by applying outside body development. In this manner, handle is a response to positive mechanical activities. Solace, then again, is a progressively mind boggling wonder since it includes physical associations between the human body, the fabrics, and the outer condition. On the objective side, Kawabata built up a lot of instruments to gauge fitting handle-related fabrics properties, including pliable, shearing, bowing, pressure, surface, weight and thickness. Fabric handle is evaluated by estimating 16 objectives mechanical and surface parameters, all at low degrees of power, and associating these parameters with the abstract appraisal of handle utilizing linear regression equation [76]. The handfeel of fabrics made of wood-based filaments, for example, thick, modal and was researched according to cotton fabrics applying the Tissue Softness Analyzer (TSA) technique in contrast with other classical methods. Two distinctive development gatherings of material were examined. The legitimacy of TSA in surveying material delicate quality of these developments was tried. TSA results were contrasted with human hand assessment just as to traditional physical estimations like wrap coefficient, ring get through and Handle-o-meter, just as more current gadget, the Fabric Touch Tester (FTT). Physical methods just as human hand evaluations generally conceded to the mildest and smoothest go, however indicated various rankings in the harder or more unpleasant side fabrics. TSA positioning of non-abrasiveness and smoothness compared to the rankings by other physical methods just as with human hand feel for the fundamental textile developments[77].

ISSN: 0303-6286 2376 Tierärztliche Praxis Vol 40, 2020

Careful interlaced silk sutures have been broadly utilized on the grounds; these materials show great taking care of attributes convenience, and perfect bunch security. Be that as it may, careful silk sutures likely reason careful site contaminations on the grounds that these sutures are made out of common protein materials with a plaited structure. Accordingly, anti-bacterial silk sutures for clinical injury conclusion ought to be created. Interlaced silk suture could be dealt with and adjusted with antibacterial operator, gave that magnificent physical and taking care of attributes of this material ought to augment kept up. This examination expected to quantitatively explore the impact of antibacterial treatment with various parameters on physical and taking care of qualities of novel antibacterial twisted silk sutures. Physical and taking care of attributes, including appearance, hitch pull rigidity, pullout contact opposition, tissue drag rubbing obstruction, and bowing solidness, were assessed. After physical and taking care of tests were led, pictures indicated morphological qualities were acquired and assessed to examine the connection between antibacterial treatment and physical and taking care of properties. Results indicated that suture width expanded and arrived at the closest thick size particular; tie pull elasticity diminished yet stayed higher than the standard incentive by at any rate 40.73%. Break nonconcurrence during tie pull rigidity test proposed that the fineness proportion of shell and center strands may improve knotpull elasticity. Static and dynamic gratings of suture-to-suture contact conduct were somewhat influenced by antibacterial treatment, and changed to fewer than 16.07 and 32.77%, separately. Suture- to-tissue friction and twisting solidness expanded by roughly half; the bowing firmness of the proposed suture stayed proficient contrasted and that of engineered sutures. In this manner, great physical and dealing with qualities can be kept up by choosing fitting covering parameters[78]. Silk has consistently been considered as the most loved and selective fashion fabric for high-class society attributable to its normal sheen and non-abrasiveness. Handle and hanging characteristics of silk are better than numerous different textiles. The expense of pure silk fabrics high, compared with different fabrics. Distinctive union fabrics of mulberry silk utilizing wool, cotton, polyester and viscose blend (p/v) in weft were created and the physical properties of mulberry silk based union fabrics were evaluated. The consequence of study demonstrated that distinction in the string check of weft course because of various yarn counts. Scraped spot opposition of silk × polyester was very high. Fabric produced using silk and wool indicated higher clo esteem i.e., it has capacity to hold heat in the fabric for longer length. Greatest tearing quality was found in silk × silk and silk × polyester. Thus, the outcomes demonstrate that most extreme rigidity was seen in silk polyester fabrics [79]. Eri union fabrics with polyester were seen as more grounded that unadulterated Eri fabrics. In an examination, the Eri yarns of 2/60s was utilized as twist and cotton and polyester yarns of 2/40s utilized as weft to build the Eri union fabrics utilizing three unique weaves to be specific plain, twill and satin. From the test results, it was seen that the quality of the Eri × Polyester plain, twill and satin weaves were better than the unadulterated Eri × Eri fabric of the considerable number of weaves. There was an improvement in different properties when contrasted and unadulterated Eri × Eri fabrics. The Eri union fabrics were built to consider the properties of fabric. To build Eri union fabric, the Eri yarn was utilized as twist with acrylic and thick rayon yarn as weft. In the investigation, the fabrics were set up with three distinctive fundamental weave (plain, twill and silk weave). Those woven fabrics were tried for physical, mechanical and utilitarian properties and examined factually. Further, information were assessed to discover the impact of mechanical properties on practical properties and the differing items were set up from the woven fabrics and

ISSN: 0303-6286 2377 Tierärztliche Praxis Vol 40, 2020

inclination was taken from the respondents [80]. Due to their unfathomable properties, nanoparticles have gotten critical in numerous fields in recent years such as energy. 6. Conclusion Silk contains numerous favorable properties of the luxurious, having colors in delightful and rich hues, and being spongy, strong, moderately wrinkle resistant, mildew and moth resistant. China and India, these two nations are the biggest producer of silk on the planet. The literature shows that thesilk and silk blended fabrics have better physical, thermal and moisture management properties. Production of high value and fashionable products out of silk provides a better value addition in the international market, which ultimately increases the price of eri cocoon and yarn; thereby improve the income of poor tribal and sericultureproducers. All the silkvarieties are skin friendly and it can be used for production of inner garments and kids wear. However, silk has the limitations such asweakened by sunlight, sweat, and chlorine bleach, and oil stains, being influenced by water spots, yellowing and blurring during usage.

References [1]. Eshkoor, R.A., Oshkovr, S.A., Sulong, A.B., Zulkifli, R., Ariffin, A.K., Azhari, C.H., “Comparative research on the crashworthiness characteristics of woven natural silk/epoxy composite tubes”, Materials and Design,Volume 47, (2013), pp 248-257. [2]. Dhavalikar, R. S., “Amino-acid composition of Indian silk fibroin and sericins”: Part I fibroins,Journal of Scientific and Industrial Research, Volume 21C (10), (1962), pp 261-263. [3]. Jolly, M. S., Sen, S. K., Sonwalkar, T. N. and Prasad, G. K. “ Nonmulberry Silks” , FAO Agricultural Services Bulletin journal, 29, FAO,Rome, (1979). [4]. Wongpanit, P., Pornsunthorntawee, O., Rujiravanit, R., John, M.J., Sabu, T. (Eds.)., “Silk fibre composites”,Natural Polymers, Volume 1: Composites. In: RSC Green Chemistry No. 16, The Royal Society of Chemistry, Cambridge, (2012). [5]. Ho, M.P., Wanga, H., Lau, K.T., Lee, J.-H., Hui, D., “Interfacial bonding and degumming effects on silk fibre/polymer biocomposites”,Natural materials in Composites Engineerings: Part B,Volume 43,Issue 7, (2012), pp 2801-2812. [6]. Kelvin Loh, K.M., Willy Tan, C.K., “Natural silkworm-epoxy resin composite for high performance application”. In: Cuppoletti, J. (Ed.), Metal, Ceramic and Polymeric Composites for Various Uses. In Tech Publications, Croatia, ( 2011), pp 325-340. [7]. Ude, A.U., Eshkoor, R.A., Zulkifili, R., Ariffin, A.K., Dzuraidah, A.W., Azhari, C.H., “Bombyxmori silk fibre and its composite”: a review of contemporary developments, Materials and Design.Volume 57, (2014),pp 298-305. [8]. Ho, M.P., Wang, H., Lau, K.T., Leng, J., “Effect of silk fiber to the mechanical and thermal properties of its biodegradable composites”, Journal of Applied. Polymer Science.Volume 127 (4), (2013), pp 2389-2396. [9]. Shubhra, Q.T.H., Alam, A.K.M.M., “Effect of gamma radiation on the mechanical properties of natural silk fiber and synthetic E-glass fiber reinforced polypropylene composites”: a comparative study. Radiation Physics. Chemistry journal.Volume 80(11), (2011),pp 1228-1232. [10]. Gupta, V.B., Rajkhowa, R., Kothari, V.K., “Physical characteristics and structure of Indian silk fibres”,Indian Journal of Fibre Textile Research. Volume 25, (2000) ,pp 14-25. [11]. Yuan, Q., Yao, J., Chen, X., Huang, L., Shao, Z., “The preparation of high performance silk fiber/fibroin composite”. Journal of Polymer,volume 51(21), (2010), pp 4843-4849.

ISSN: 0303-6286 2378 Tierärztliche Praxis Vol 40, 2020

[12]. Dragan Jocić., “Functional Finishing of Textiles with Responsive Polymeric Systems”, Advanbiotex Workshop 2010, Publisher - University of Twente, Enschede, Netherlands, (2010), pp 37-59. [13]. A. Chakraborty, P.K. Saha, K. Singha, A. Sengupta, S. Thakur., “ Application of synthesized disperse-Azo dyes on silk fabric” - A new vista of silk dyeing. Journal of Textile Association,volume 72, (2011), pp 229-41. [14]. T Konishi., (2000), “Structure of fibroin - a in structure of silk yarn”,Walailak journal, Oxford and IBH Publication, New Delhi, pp 267-77. [15]. H.J. Jin, J. Park, V. Karagiorgiou, U.J. Kim, R. Valluzi, P. Cebe, D.L. Kaplan., “Water-stable silk films with reduced β-sheet content”.Advanced Functional Matererials. Volume 15, (2005), pp 1241-7. [16]. K. Yamaguchi, Y. Kikuchi, T. Takagi, A. Kikuchi, F. Oyama, K. Shimura, S. Mizuno., “Primary structure of the silk fibroin light chain determined by cDNA sequencing and peptide analysis”. Journal of Molecular Biology,Volume 210, (1989), pp 127-39. [17]. M Tsukada., “Structure of silk sericins removed from wild silk by boiling in water”. The Journal of Sericulture. Science of Japan,Volume 52, (1983), pp 296-9. [18]. F Sadov, M Korchagin, AMatetsky., “Chemical Technology of Fibrous Materials”.Mir Publication, Moscow, (1987), pp 306-7. [19]. Shigeo Nakamura,Jun Magoshi And Yoshiko Magoshi., “Thermal Properties of Silk Proteins In Silk Worms, Silk polymers”, American Chemical Society, Washington, (1993),pp 212-221. [20]. Saratchandra, B.. Indian Silk, “A thought for development of ericulture in India”. Vol 41 (12), (2003),pp 25-28. [21]. Kumar De, Subir; Mitra, Ashis., “A Study of Some Mechanical Properties of Eri Fabric and Comparative Study with Wool Fabric”, Man-Made Textiles in India , Volume 41 Issue 5, (2013), pp 162-166. . [22]. Čiukas R., Abramavičiūtė J., “Investigation of The Air Permeability of Socks Knitted From Yarns With Peculiar Properties”. Fibres & Textiles In Eastern Europe, Volume 18, No. 1 (78), (2010),pp 84-88. [23]. Erdumlu N,Ozipek O., “Investigation of regenerated bamboo fiber and yarn characteristics” Fibers & Textiles in Eastern Europe, Vol.16, No.4 (69), (2008), pp 43- 47. [24]. You, L.Y., “The Soybean Protein Fibre- A Healthy & Comfortable Fibre for the 21st Century”, Fibres&Textiles in Eastern Europe,Vol.12, No.2 (46), (2004), pp 8-9. [25]. Nida Oğlakcioğlu,Arzu Marmarali., “Thermal Comfort Properties of Some Knitted Structures”, Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe January / December, Vol. 15, No. 5 - 6 (2007) ,pp 64 - 65. [26]. Ucar, N. and Yilmaz, T., “Thermal Properties of 1×1, 2×2 and 3×3 rib knit fabrics”. In: Fibers and Textiles in Eastren Europe, volume 12, Issue 3, (2004),pp 34-38. [27]. Gunesoglu, S., Meric, B., Gunesoglu, C., “Thermal contact properties of 2-Yarn Fleece knitted fabrics”, Fibres& Textiles in Eastern Europe, Volume 14, No. 5 (59), (2006),pp 103-106. [28]. H.-Y. Cheung., A potential material for tissue engineering: “Silkworm silk/PLA biocomposite”,Composites Part:B,Volume 39,Issue 6, (2008), pp 1026-1033. [29]. Marmarali A., Kadoglu H., Oglakcioglu N., Celik P., Blaga M., Ursache M., Loghin, C., “Thermal comfort of some new yarns generation knitted fabrics”, Autex World Textile Conference, May 26-28, Izmir, Turkey, (2009) , pp 75-81. [30]. Natalia Jaramillo-Quicenoa, Catalina Álvarez-Lópezb, Adriana Restrepo-Osorioc., “Structural and thermal properties of silk fibroin films obtained from cocoon and waste

ISSN: 0303-6286 2379 Tierärztliche Praxis Vol 40, 2020

silk fibers as raw materials”, Procedia Engineering journal 200, (2017),pp 384–388. [31]. Morton, W.E., Hearle, J.W.S., “Physical Properties of Textile Fibres”, fourth ed. The Textile Institute, Wood head Publishing in Textiles, Cambridge, England. (2008). [32]. Somashekar, T.H., “Recent advances in eri silk spinning, weaving and future properties”. Indian Silk Journal, Volume 41(12), (2003), pp 49-52. [33]. Senthil Kumar B, Ramachandran T., “Influence of Knitting Process Parameters on the Thermal Comfort Properties of Eri Silk Knitted Fabrics”, Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe, Volume 26, 5(131), (2018), pp 47-53. [34]. Memik Bunyamin Uzumcu, Burak , Nida Oglakcioglu, and Huseyin Kadoglu., “An Investigation on Comfort Properties of Dyed Mulberry Silk/Cotton Blended Fabrics”, Fibers and Polymers Volume.20,Issue No.11, (2019), pp 2342-2347. [35]. Ron postle Gu Ping., “Objective evaluation of silk fabrics”, Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research,Volume 19, (1994), pp 156-162. [36]. Mary A. Becker, Yoshiko Magoshi, Tetsuya Sakai & Noreen C., “Chemical and physical properties of old silk fabrics”,Journal of studies and conservation,Taylor and Francis Published volume 42:1, (2013),pp 27-37. [37]. S. Raadnuithe., “Abrasive wear behaviour of a thai silk fabric”, International Journal of Applied Mechanics and Engineering,Volume 11,No(4) , (2006) ,pp 755-763. [38]. P. Taddei, C. Arosio, P. Monti, M. Tsukada, T. Arai, and G. Freddi., Chemical and Physical Properties of Sulfated Silk Fabric, Biomacromolecules ,Volume 8, No. 4, (2007),pp 1200-1208. [39]. Srihanam Prasong, Simchuer Wilaiwan And Srisuwan., “Cross section image of eri silk fiber and their secondary structure after treatment with different organic solvents”, journal of biological science,Volume 11(1), (2011), pp 46-51. [40]. P.K. Choudhuri, P.K. Majumdar, B. Sarkar., “Studies on tensile properties of eri/acrylic blended yarn”, Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research,Volume 38, (2013),pp 66-73. [41]. R. Malathy., “A Study on effect of eco friendly finish on mechanical and comfort property of silk fabric”, International Journal of Humanities, Arts, Medicine and Sciences, Volume 2,Issue 7, (2014),pp 109-114. [42]. B Senthil Kumar, T Ramachandran., “ERI silk for functional knitted apparels”. International conference on systems, science, control, communication, Engineering and Technology, (2016),pp 968-972. [43]. Beceren, Y., Candan, C., Cimilli, S., Ulger, K., “Properties of Plain Knits from Siro-Spun Viscose/Spandex Yarns”, Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe,Volume 18(1), (2008),pp 41-46. [44]. Kulkarni, A.A., Mahale, G. Kariyappa., “Physical properties of developed viscose rayon and eri silk union fabrics”,Karnataka Journal of Agricultural Science,Volume 24(4), (2011), pp 506-509. [45]. N. Sharma, M. Jain, R. Kashyap., “Assessment of physical properties of cotton with ahimsa and conventional silk union fabrics”,International Journal of Science and Research,Volume 7(4), (2017), pp 458-462. [46]. B. Senthil Kumar, M. Ramesh Kumar, M. Parthiban & T. Ramachandran., “Effect of pique and honeycomb structures on moisture management properties of eri silk knitted fabrics”, Journal of Natural Fibers, (2019),pp1-10. [47]. Uyanik, S., M. Topalbekiroglu., “The effect of knit structures with tuck stitches on fabric properties and pilling resistance”, Journal of the Textile Institute,Volume 108(9), (2017), pp 1584-89.

ISSN: 0303-6286 2380 Tierärztliche Praxis Vol 40, 2020

[48].SmitaraniSaikia., “A study on blending of regenerated bamboo with silk”,International Journal of Scientific Engineering and Applied Science (IJSEAS),Volume 2(4), (2016),pp 222-227. [49]. Ramachandran T., Senthil Kumar B., Pachiyappan K., “Development of Eri Silk Knitted Garments for Functional Knitwear”, A Journal of Science and Technology Volume 2. (2016). [50]. Benltoufa, S., F. Fayala, M. Cheikhrouhou, S. Ben Nasrallah., “Porosity determination of jersey structure”. Autex Research Journal,Volume 7(1), (2007), pp 63- 69. [51]. R.A. Miller, J.B. Cravotta., “Knitted fabric construction with improved moisture management”, US Patent No: 6986270 B2. Accessed 17. (2006). [52]. M. Van Roy., “ Water resistant breathable fabrics”. Journal of coated Fabrics, Volume 22(1), (1992),pp 20-31. [53]. Xili Hu, Mingwei Tian, Lijun Qu, Shifeng Zhu, Guangting Han., “Multifunctional cotton fabrics with graphene/polyurethane coatings with far-infrared emission, electrical conductivity, and ultraviolet blocking properties”. Carbon,Volume 95, (2015),pp 625- 633. [54]. J. Fan, X.Y. Cheng., “Heat and moisture transfer with sorption and phase change through clothing assemblies”,Textile Research Journal,Volume 75(2), (2005), pp 99- 105. [55]. B.G. Yao, Y. Li, J.-Y. Hu, Y.L. Kwok, K.W. Yeung., “An improved test method for characterizing the dynamic liquid moisture transfer in porous polymeric materials”,Polymer Testing,Volume 25(5), (2006), pp 677-689. [56]. C. Keiser, R.M. Rossi., “Temperature analysis for the prediction of steam formation and transfer in multilayer thermal protective clothing at low level thermal radiation”,Textile . Research Journal,Volume 78(11), (2008), pp 1025-1035. [57]. Weilai Chen, Miaomiao He, Maoyi Zhang, Zhanchang Tang., “Wearing performances of floret silk/cotton blended sports socks”, Advanced Materials Research journal, Volume 532-53, (2012),pp 101-104. [58]. K. Vinisha Rani, Nisha Chandwani, Purvi Kikani, S. K. Nema, Arun Kumar Sarma & Bornali Sarma., “Optimization and surface modification of silk fabric using DBD air plasma for improving wicking properties”, The Journal of The Textile Institute,Volume 109(3), (2017),pp 368-37. [59]. Senthil Kumar B , M Ramesh Kumar,a ,T Ramachandran & M Parthiban., “Moisture management properties of eri silk knitted fabrics”,Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research Volume 44, (2019),pp 389-395. [60]. C. Mackay, Subhash C. Anand and David P. Bishop., “Effects of Laundering on the Sensory and Mechanical Properties of 1 X 1 Rib Knitwear Fabrics Part I: Experimental Procedures and Fabric Dimensional Properties” Textile Research Journal,Volume 66,Issue 3, (1996),pp 151-157. [61]. Youngjoo Na and Chunjeong Kim., “Quantifying the Handle and Sensibility of Woven Silk Fabric”, Textile research Journal,Volume 71(8), (2001), pp 739-742 . [62]. Chen, P.L., Barker, R.L., Smith, G.W. Scruggs, B., “Handle of weft knit fabrics”, Textile Research Journal,Volume 62 (4), (1992), pp 200-211. [63]. Eshkoor, R.A., Oshkovr, S.A., Sulong, A.B., Zulkifli, R., Ariffin, A.K., Azhari, C.H., (2013), “Comparative research on the crashworthiness characteristics of woven natural silk/epoxy composite tubes”. Materials Design,volume 47, pp 248-257. [64]. Wongpanit, P., Pornsunthorntawee, O., Rujiravanit, R., John, M.J., Sabu, T. (Eds.)., “Silk fibre composites”. In: Natural Polymers, Volume 1: Composites. In: RSC Green Chemistry No. 16, The Royal Society of Chemistry, Cambridge. (2012).

ISSN: 0303-6286 2381 Tierärztliche Praxis Vol 40, 2020

[65]. Ho, M.P., Wanga, H., Lau, K.T., Lee, J.H., Hui, D., “ Interfacial bonding and degumming effects on silk fibre/polymer biocomposites”. Composites. Part B,volume 43, (2012),pp 2801-2812. [66]. Kelvin Loh, K.M., Willy Tan, C.K., “ Natural silkworm-epoxy resin composite for high performance application”.Ceramic and Polymeric Composites for Various Uses,journal of material science and engineering,In Tech Publications, Croatia, (2011), pp 325-340. [67]. Y.C. Radhalakshmia, T.H. Somashekar, V. Subramanium., “Suitability of modified method for evaluating low-stress mechanical properties of silk fabrics”. Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, 34, (2009), pp 283-286. [68]. Rebecca R. Van Amber, Brian E. Niven and Cheryl A. Wilson., “Effects of Laundering and Water Temperature on the Properties of Silk and Silk-blend Knitted”, Textile Research Journal Vol 80(15), (2010),pp 1557–1568. [69]. Gabur Taga and B. Kalita., Study on “Eri Union Fabric for Various End-Uses” Journal of Academia and Industrial Research (JAIR) 2, (2013),pp 252-256. [70]. Mingbo Ma, Lixia You, Lican Chen and Wenlong Zhou., “Effects of ultrasonic laundering on theproperties of silk”,Textile Research Journal,Volume 84(20), (2014),pp 2166-2174. [71]. N. Verma, N. Grewal, S. Bains., “Evaluation of comfort and handle behavior of mulberry silk waste/wool blended fabrics for end use”, Journal of Natural Fibers,Volume 13(3), (2016),pp 277-288. [72]. Brojeswari Das., , “Studies on Handle Behaviour of Eri Silk / Wool Blended Fabrics Developed for Winter Wear Application”, Procedia Engineering 200, (2017)pp 53-60. [73]. Papori Hazarika, Dipshika Hazarika, Binita Kalita, Nabnita Gogoi, Seiko Jose & Gautam Basu., “Development of Apparels from Silk Waste and Pineapple Leaf Fiber”, Journal of Natural Fibers, (2017) ,pp 1-9 [74]. Rebecca Van Amber, Rangam Rajkhowa, Rechana Remadevi, Dilip Barooah, Maryam Naebe., “Understanding Morphology, next to Skin Comfort, and Change of Properties during Washing of Knitted Blends of Eri Silk”, Journal of textile and apparel technology and management Volume 10, Issue 4, (2018),pp 1-12 [75]. Ude, A.U., Eshkoor, R.A., Zulkifili, R., Ariffin, A.K., Dzuraidah, A.W., Azhari, C.H., “Bombyxmori silk fibre and its composite”: a review of contemporary developments. Matereials and Design,Volume 57, (2014), pp 298-305. [76]. Ho, M.P., Wang, H., Lau, K.T., Leng, J., “Effect of silk fiber to the mechanical and thermal properties of its biodegradable composites”. Journal of Applied Polymer and Science.Volume 127(4), (2013), pp 2389-2396. [77]. M Abu-Rous, E Liftinger, J Innerlohinger, B Malengier, S Vasile., “ A new physical method to assess handle properties of fabrics made from wood-based fibers”,Materials Science and Engineering,Volume 254, (2017). [78. Chen,T.,Fang,Q., Zhong,Q., Chen,Y., Wang, J., “Synthesis and thermosensitive, behavior of polyacrylamide copolymers and their applications in smart textiles,Polymers,volume 7, (2015),pp 909-920. [79]. Arora, R.; Sakshi; Pal, G., “Quality Characteristics of Silk based Union Fabrics”, Man-Made Textiles in India. 43 (4), (2015), pp 138-141. [80]. Taga, G, Kalita, B. “Study on Eri Union Fabric for Various End Uses”, Journal of Academia and Industrial Research, (JAIR),Volume 2,Issue(5) ,(2013),,pp 252-256.

ISSN: 0303-6286 2382