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The Urbanist: a Faded- Grandeur Guide the City Is Full of Buildings That Look Like They Could Use a Good Palermo Power-Wash, but That’S the Charm

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The Urbanist: a Faded- Grandeur Guide the City Is Full of Buildings That Look Like They Could Use a Good Palermo Power-Wash, but That’S the Charm 01 the urbanist: A Faded- Grandeur Guide The city is full of buildings that look like they could use a good Palermo power-wash, but that’s the charm. Claudio Gulli, the historian of art venue Palazzo Butera, on his city’s unmissable relics. The Botanical were incredibly Garden important structures, “The Orto Botanico and the designs [botanical garden] for the frescoes of the perfectly encapsulates Pietà are in the the spirit of Palermo— Louvre.” plants from all over the world were once The Frescoed Off-menu timballi, silver-factory acclimated here Palazzo B&Bs, open-air churches. before being sent all “In Piazza Marina, over Europe. It was the 14th-century imagined by a Jacobin Palazzo Steri of the Frenchman, Léon Chiaramonte family Dufourny, who defined Gothic came to study Greek architecture in Sicily: architecture in Sicily Its notable windows in the late 1700s, in black-and-white until fairly recently, tourists treated the ➵ as many architects stone became known somewhat crumbling seaside city of Palermo as did. Once you as ‘Chiaramonte pass through the Gothic.’ The a mere touchdown between other Sicilian des- looking east templelike University of Palermo from piazza neoclassical welcome is restoring the tinations: the volcanic Aeolian Islands; the pretoria in the historic center. building, you can intricately painted coastal, cobblestoned city of Cefalù; the Greek stroll through wooden ceiling, a temples of Agrigento. Spend a night there and greenhouses filled masterpiece of Gothic with impossibly lush decoration from the get out as quickly as you can. But now they’re deciding to stay a vegetation, wander 1370s and 1380s that while. The Italian government selected the city as its capital of through the palm will be unveiled in culture for 2018, and the same year Palermo hosted the Mani- garden dotted with a few months. You can carved marble figures, tour through the festa art festival, boosting its tourist numbers by 10 percent. and marvel at the Inquisition Museum Meanwhile, the Mafia’s stultifying grip on the city has contin- enormous drooping inside, where you can limbs of the Australian still see the drawings ued to loosen in the wake of the collective outrage over the mur- banyan tree here.” prisoners made ders of judges Paolo Borsellino and Giovanni Falcone in 1992. on the walls.” The Trio of The organization no longer controls local politics and law Baroque Churches The Roofless enforcement and has mostly ceded the drug trade to criminal “To understand Church Sicilian Baroque, “The unfinished organizations beyond Sicily. Having regained a measure of con- there are three 16th-century trol over their city, residents are clearly in a positive mood, evi- churches along Via Spasimo church, Torremuzza in the which was supposed denced by the revved-up social scene in the old center of town: historical quarter of to contain a painting Where once a chaos of traffic reigned, the left-wing mayor, Leo- Kalsa—Santa Teresa by Raphael (now luca Orlando, has restored the salotto urbano—the “urban liv- Alla Kalsa, Santa in the Prado), has no Maria Della Pietà, roof and is one of ing room”—with numerous pedestrian-friendly initiatives. In and the Noviziato dei the most evocative Palermo, the ancient (Greek, Roman) mingles with other traces Crociferi. They’re all open-air churches in from the end of the Italy. It’s located of past settlements (Byzantine, Norman, Arab, Swabian, 1600s, early 1700s, right in the center of French, Spanish) in its architecture, in the Sicilian dialect, and and each has its own Palermo, and on distinctive façades summer nights there in its traditional dishes, renowned street food, and centuries- including articulated are popular film old food markets. But sidling up to the city’s fusty dining and windows and double festivals, theater rows of columns. performances, and hotel options are palazzos now filled with contemporary art and Today, they seem a bit jazz concerts rehabbed hardware stores turned bars. laura rysman neglected, but they on the grounds.” 54 new york | may 13–26, 2019 Photograph by Giuseppe Scarpinato may 13–26, 2019 | new york 55 the urbanist: palermo the urbanist: palermo 03 04 06 Palazzo Butera Botteghe Colletti WANT TO GET Where the Local A PALERMITAN 05 Less-Expected TALKING? Travel Guides Day Trips Broach one of Would Stay Order Pasta Like a Palermitan Chef … Some seaside alternatives these hot topics. If they weren’t locals. Classic and newfangled iterations of the city’s essential dishes. to the touristy towns of Cefalù and Monreale. The Mafia in decline More than 20 years PASTA C’ANCIOVA, pasta with TIMBALLO DI ANELLETTI, PASTA CON I RICCI, anchovies, tomato sauce, raisins, pasta rings baked in a ragù with pasta with sea urchin. ago, a rebellion against THE DISH the Mafia’s stranglehold pine nuts, and toasted bread crumbs. prosciutto and cheese. produced grassroots movements like The Corona family has decades Run by two brothers, At Spanò (Via degli Scalini 6), Addiopizzo, which in the local restaurant world and the red-checked- a bare-bones restaurant with tables in united over 1,000 opened Corona Trattoria (Via tablecloth Trattoria the parking lot, service is notoriously establishments in their Guglielmo Marconi 9) four years ago. Ai Cascinari (Via horrendous, yet the excellent According to Sarah Bonsangue, D’Ossuna 43/45) is seafood turns diners into faithful refusal to pay the pizzo, $ chef at I Cucci (Piazza Bologni 3/4), known for its home-cooking feel. “It customers. “The freshness of the fish or bribe. While the OLIVELLA BED & BREAKFAST VERSION “The team respects classic methods reminds me of growing up, waking to makes all the difference, and their Artifact-Hunt in Mozia movement took a while olivellabb.it, from $50 THE TRADITIONAL THE TRADITIONAL and uses quality ingredients,” and the scent of ragù,” says Patrizia di version is a must,” says Vladimiro 1.5 hours by bus and shuttle boat to gain traction, one- “This homey five-room third fewer Sicilian serves them alongside an entirely Benedetto, chef at Bye Bye Blues Farina, chef at Ristorante L’Ottava The first place the Phoenicians set- B&B that’s housed in a former Sicilian wine list. (Via del Garofalo 23). Nota (Via Butera 55). tled in Sicily nearly 3,000 years ago. businesses now pay the silver factory manages to feel 02 pizzo than in the ’90s. Visit the Whitaker Museum and its modern while also maintaining “My teacher, Tony If you call the day before, the folks A minimalist setting, The Mafia still has a famously beautiful Greek statue a lot of original details, Lo Coco, at I Pupi at Badalamenti (Viale Galatea 55 ) , with white brick and presence in the city, from the fifth century B.C., the like heirloom bed frames, (Via del Cavaliere 59, a restaurant in the Mondello gray wood, that mixes but it’s been weakened Mozia Charioteer, and the Tasca tiled floors, and frescoed ceilings. Bagheria),” a Michelin- neighborhood, will make you a n tweaked Palermitan How the Art Crowd Hangs Out enough so that D’Almerita vineyard, whose profits starred restaurant in off-menu timballo with fresh cooking with residents and Plus it’s very central, located Days at Baroque palazzos, nights at former hardware stores. a tiny town about a half-hour beyond pork, salami, and real tomato local spices. “Chef Vincenzo Pinto’s help maintain the island. Take the businesses are able right by Teatro Massimo.” INTERPRETATION INTERPRETATION bus from Palermo to Marsala and —edoardo zaffuto, THE NEW-SCHOOL Palermo, “makes a ‘liquid anchovy’ extract, “as it used to be done in seaweed version at A’Cuncuma to thrive. then another bus to the ferry dock, Addiopizzo Travel founder version with bread crumbs.” Sicilian households back in the day.” (Via Judica 21) is incredible.” DAYTIME ART SPOTS NIGHTTIME DRINK SPOTS where a shuttle boat takes you on the five-minute trip to the island. The immigrant- $ $ “Massimo Valsecchi, one “Bocum (Via dei Cassari 6) friendly mayor PIAZZA BORSA Snorkel Around Ustica of Europe’s most prominent art in the old city center has a talented Recent elections piazzaborsa.it, from $125 1.5 hours by boat collectors, bought Palazzo Butera bartender who makes a divine put anti-immigrant … And Get Pistachio Granita in Kalsa “Yes, there’s the five-star Villa Far less known than the nearby Aeo- (Via Butera 18) to exhibit his gin-and-tonic, but what I love best is nationalists at the Palermo’s cuisine particularly shines when it comes to the most humble Igeia, but it’s far from the center. lian Islands, Ustica is closer to Pal- collection (which includes works the surreal atmosphere of the place— center of Italian street-food specialties. Orazio Corona, who runs the Corona Trattoria seafood Piazza Borsa is four stars; ermo and surrounded by state- by Gerhard Richter and Gilbert there’s a piano and chandeliers and politics, but this has restaurant with his parents, maps the out the best snacks in the historic center. it’s right by Quattro Canti and in protected crystalline waters. The & George, plus site-specific pieces mismatched stuffed armchairs— only strengthened the the erstwhile 19th-century beaches of Scoglitti, Cala Sidoti, and by Anne and Patrick Poirier) to the as if you’re in a Palermo of the past.” city’s resolve to stock-exchange building, which welcome foreigners. the white-cliff-enclosed Piscine are public.”—andrea masu, artist —borghese has a courtyard and a fountain.” Mayor Leoluca favorites for swimming and snorkel- in the Alterazioni collective —domenico aronica, Orlando has rejected ing. Stop into Rosso di Sera for “Or I’ll I head to Le Cattive the xenophobic Palermo Walking Tour locally caught seafood, including the “The Riso museum (Via Vittorio (Passeggiata delle Cattive, Piazza proposals put forth by island’s signature shrimp.
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