§I'IItlltllllll"IIIIIIIHltltllllltlllllllllllllllllllll111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111'1111111'

SPEND CHRISTMAS THIS YEAR AT THE Wr~s~am 11·(ot~l j!)ubtin

whue fhe /o/lol£ing Special A rrangemcnls "aoe b~cn made for your En le r 1a i n men 1 SATURDAY, 23rd DECEMBER-Dancing 8 p.m. to 12 o'clock. SUNDAY, 24th DECEMBER-Orchestra in the Lounge. BANK OF CHRISTMAS DAY, 25th DECEMBER - Orchestral Entertainment in the Lounge. Yuletide Dinner p ESTABLISHED 1783 7 p.m. Entertainment to (ollow. ST. STEPHEN'S DAY, 26th DECEMBER-Following Leopardstown Races. Galo. Supper Dance and Entertainment 10 p.m. to 3 a.m. FACILITIES FOR TRAVELLERS FRIDAY, 29th DECEMBER-Ward Union Hunt Ball 10 p.m. to 3 a.m. AT SUNDAY, 31st DECEMBER-New Year's Eve Grand Gala Supper Dance and Entertainment. Dancing 10 p.m. to 3 a.m. i Head Office: COLLEGE GREEN, DUBLIN Dancing to THE GRESHAM HOTEL ORCHESTRA BELFAST CORK .. DERRY conducted by Jimmie Masson. Evening Dress essential at all Dances. AND 100 TOWNS THROUGHOUT IRELAND Terms: inclusive 0/ all Meals. Dances and FeslilJities (excepting Ward Union Hunl Ball and New Year's Eve Donce), for slay 0/ not I le" than four (4) dog,. From 351- DailJl EVERY DESCRIPTION OF FOREIGN EXCHANGE Visitors are requested to make their reservations early BUSINESS TRANSACTED to avoid disappointment. PHONE 71371-6. ~'IIIIIIIIIItIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII'IIIIIIIIIII'1111111111 111111111111111111111111111111111111'1111111111111'1111I111I11 I

"You can always depend on GOOD FOOD here" Unrivalled for Cuisine and Service For the majority of g'uests g-ood food is synonymous with a good hotel or restaurant, and once you acquire a nam,:: for g'ood food service, Superb Cuisine makes the Clarence menus your establishment will be filled to capacity. Up-ta-date Kitchen unrivalled and appetisine,. The service, too, equipment enables you to prepare food rapidly and serve it hot and properly cooked. \Vhen in need of kitchen equipment or utensils, send which is prompt and courteous. will please the us your enquiries. Ple;lse note our new address, to which we have most exacting patrons. 'Phone 76178 transferred our Kitchen Equipment Department from Capel Street. NEW KITCHEN SHOW. 7he CLARENCE HOTEL Dublin ROOMS: 5/ DAWSON EVANS LTD. STREET. DUBLIN _O·Keeffe·s••••••••••••••••••••• ---. IRISH TRAV'El Official Organ of t~~ "]ris~ 'Gourlst Association an~ of t~~ "]rls~ '1'fotds '7~~~ration

VOL. XX. DECEMBER. 1944 No. 3

NOTES AND NEWS

(!:~rlstmas. t 944 LAND .AND SCENERY. For too many millions of people now in other A correspondent t::B us- if, usually, the scenic countries Christmas has been regions in Ireland re also the best agriculturally. for five years in eclipse and That is a question for experts, but we do not always celebrations and festivities associate scenic values with land values in terms of few and scant. All the more agriculture. Perhaps a study of land sales will give rea son, therefore. to be the best clues. Meanwhile, we are not likely to find grateful for the continuing anywhere in Ireland seven farm acres like those in good fortune that attends us the Lincolnshire loam country which sold for £430 here and allows us to" in­ an acre the other day. dulge in the joys of the season. So to all our readers DANIEL O'CONNELL ON THE STAGE. and contributors we say: 110'Otd15 r~ Ri-Bonds 'OiD. The most argued-about figure in the Irish history of the last 100 years has, curiously enough, been the least dramatised. Nor has the aspect of Daniel MR. de VALERA, MOUNTAINEER. O'Connell as a great traveller within Ireland been Mr. de Valera, who was a strong footballer and stressed. So" King Dan," a play by Aodh de athlete in the days before destiny called him to larger Blacam, with Archbishop Murray, Thomas Davis, issues, resumed for a few hours recently his former the Duke of Wellington, amongst the celebrated role. Taking advantage of an engagement at Sligo, names portrayed, will be an event of the month at he climbed to the top of Knocknarea for that grand the Gaiety Theatre, Dublin. View which takes in the Donegal coast and mountains as well as Nephin and even in Mayo. CARAVAN CLUB (IRISH CENTRE). Only a couple of hundred feet higher than Bray Head, and with good going all the way, it is The Irish Centre of the Caravan Club of Great surprising that so few visitors to Sligo make the easy Britain and Ireland is a paradox. Founded here in climb of Knocknarea. 1940, it has everything except the caravans, or, rather, the power to move them. The Annual General Meeting, to be held in the Central Hotel. SIGNS OF THE TIMES. Dublin, on December 2nd, will show, however, that The return of the road-signs is a pointer towards prospects are good and only await the relaxation of better times ahead, though it won't be .. all clear" at restrictions for a real advance by the Irish Centre in once on the roads or any other way when the war is • me?1be~~hip and"activity. The Hon. Sec. is Mr. J. over. It's an easier world for the traveller since the Irvme, Kenore, Fortfield Road, Terenure, Dublin. Cyclists' Touring Club put up their hill-warnings as a first step. The A.A. followed with their road­ signs just before 1914 and made a good job of it here, as the fine marking for 260 miles from Cork to Belfast proved.

THE LORD MAYOR OF CORK. In our report of the LT.A. Annual General Meet­ ing in November issue, the name of the Lord Mayor of Cork, Alderman Sean Cronin, was, inadvertently, omitted from the list of those present. Curiosities around Ireland

THE "JUMPING CHURCH." KILKENNY CARVING.

One of many curious figures in Franciscan Abbey, End wall of this church at Millextown, Kilkenny. near Ardee, in 1715, split and swung inwards thus .. expelling" the grave of an excommunicated person interred .. PILLAR OF SALT." within the church. T

A well-known South Coast Beacon. - --- ~ -- --

December. 1944 IRISH TRAVEL 43 I[~}"'II'I'''IItI'II'I'''''111CAL·L' .... '·~~~i ..·" ..~~E ..·'....~~~VEi'LE'~ ..'....(..2~·) ..·'..~

mlll'III'I'III'III""""""II"'IIII""IIIII"I'"1111111'1111""11111'11'11"111111""1"111"111'1'11II,.t"'III""IIIIIII'I"'IIIII'I"""III."."II""II" ••, ••I"IIIII'lllll'llllllllllllllllllllllllllll11111111111111111111111,8 Arthur Young's Stormy Crossing A County Wexford Landscape 1776, October 17th. From Waterford to Passage, If you ask what is the distinctive mark of an Irish and got my chaise and horses aboard the Countess landscape, where the country has no particular ?f Tyrone pacquet, in full expectation of sailing feature of mountain, valley, or wood, I must reply, Immediately, as the wind was fair, but I soon found that it consists chiefly in a gradual easy swell of the difference of these private vessels and the post~ ground, from the road upwards, divided into portions o~ce pacquets at Holyhead and Dublin. When the much smaller than we usually see in England, wmd was fair, the tide was foul; and when the tide fenced by very low boundaries of a few stones, or a Was with them, the wind would not do, so I had the bank of earth, but rarely displaying a qUick~set hedge agreeableness of waiting with my horses in the hold, or row of trees. This method of laying out the by way of rest, after a journey of 1,500 miles ground gives you a full view of each separate patch; (through Ireland). and these again, being variously cultivated, present ~ctober 18th. After a beastly night passed on a picture altogether dissimilar from English scenery. shIpboard, and finding no signs of departure, walked The background, in this part of Ireland, is almost to Ballycanvan, the seat of Cornelius Bolton, Esq.: invariably a fine mountain peak, or chain of gigantic rode with Mr. Bolton, Jr., to Faithleghill, which hills rearing their dark summits against the sky. Add commands one of the finest views I have seen in to this the frequent glimpse obtained, now of some Ireland. There is a rock on the top of a hill. which venerable ruin, standing alone in its little sanctuary has a very bold view on every side down on a great of grass and shrubs; then, perhaps, a light playful extent of country, much of which is grass inclosures stream murmuring over the bright pebbles; and, anon, a noble plantation, holding in its bosom the of a good verdure. This hill is the centre of a circle of about ten miles diameter, beyond which higher family mansion, the glebe house, and often the lands rise, which, C!fter spreading to a great extent, village church. have on every side a background of mountain. THE FLOWERY COUNTRYSIDE. At this season you may fill up the canvas with BLOWN BACK TO ARKLOW. every variety of rich and glowing tint the whole October 19th. The wind being fair, took my leave family of wild flowers can supply. Although quite of Mr. Bolton and went back to the ship; met with the end of June, we were regaled with the choicest a fresh scene of provoking delays, so that it was the beauties of spring, mingled with those of midsummer. next morning, October 20th, at 8 o'clock, before we ~hrubs and trees of the hawthorn, presenting, sailed; and then it was not wind, but a cargo of lIterally, one mass of rich and fragrant blossoms, passengers, that spread our sails. Twelve or fourteen adorned the roadside; and these, as we advanced hours are not an uncommon passage, but such was farther into Wexford, were richly interspersed with Our luck, that after being in sight of the lights on tall bushes of furze, not yet entirely stripped of their the Smalls, we were, by contrary winds, blown golden buds. It was not until we had left New Ross opposite to Arklow sands; a violent gale arose, considerably behind us, that we found ourselves thus which perfectly blew a storm, that lasted thirty~six hedged in ; but never did we miss the glorious pro~ hours, in which, under a reefed mainsail, the ship fusion of flowe:-s, among which the foxglove, larger drifted up and down, wearing, in order to keep clear and more beautIful than I have usually seen it in our of the coasts. gardens, continually reared its head, waving above No wonder this appeared to me, a fresh~water the little rude fence of stones that often constituted sailor, as a storm, when the oldest men on board the only barrier between us and the corn or potato reckoned it a violent one; the wind blew in furious field. -CHARLOTTE ELIZABETH, Letters From Ireland gusts; the waves ran very high; the cabbin windows 1~~ , burst open, and the sea pouring in set everything afloat, and, among the rest, a poor lady who had set .. THIRTY YEARS OF CROKE PARK." her bed on the floor. We had, however, the satis~ The Contributor of .. Thirty Years of Croke faction to find, by trying the pumps every watch, Park" in our

Errigal has II Wintry Air. The Winter Scene

Perpetual Winter in the Famous Caves of Mitchelstown. December. 1944 IRISH TRAVEL 45 The City Thrilled this Country- boy ...... ·..·..·1 By T. C. MURRAY ,"-'" - -- _-_ .

(In our November issue Mr. T. C. Murray described Through heavy swing doors of bevelled glass he tJ:e arrival of young Stephen Mangan for the first passed from the hall into the gallery. tIme, W/.1th his father, in Cork. We join him again on For a moment he stood transfixed - almost St. Patrick's Bridge, as set out in a series of extracts incapable of motion as the frozen figures looking from the full story "Spring Horizon" published down upon him from their pedestals. Into what by Nelson). strange world had he strayed? Here before his startled eyes man stood revealed as at the creation­ TEPHEN'S eye, eager to take in all that was naked as the moon - unabashed, unashamed. noteworthy, ranged from one object to Wherever his eyes wandered, nude or semi~nude S another, and, questing further, was held by a forms presented themselves to his gaze. The colour slender belfry with domed roof perched high on the terraced slopes above the river. .. Isn't that Shandon?" he asked. .. It's like the pictures I've seen of it." His father nodded. .. I'd love to hear the bells," he said eagerly. .. When do they chime1" " At the evening service likely. I'm not sure. I've never heard them. Like most people, I don't bother...." Stephen was alone. Eager with curiosity, he went along the street lingering at the novelty stores, the bookshops, the florists, the jewellers. In the Grand Parade he came on an art store, its window display a little gclllery of coloured prints. Prominent on an easel was a reproduction of Millet's Angelus. Boy as he was, its appeal went right to the core of his The Lee begins at Gougane Barra. imagination. Here was a homely country scene rose and ebbed in his cheeks. He had stepped from familiar to his eyes as children at play. How often a world in which man instinctively veiled his body had he not seen farm folk pause in their grubbing into a sphere where the human form proclaims with or ploughing, and, dropping their implements, bow the star in its shining, the sun in its splendour, the seIf~same their heads in the attitude as these two. glory of the supreme creative intelligence...... Carefully taking his bearings, for he was not He found his way back to the appointed place. a little fearful of losing his way, he left the main blue~dialled thoroughfare, and turning down Academy Street, The hands of the clock over Cash's emerged into Nelson Place. Directly facing him was indicated five minutes of the hour. Promptly on the the School of Art. In gold letters, on a black ground, stroke of four his father appeared. he read: .. Well, had a good time, Stephen?" he inquired SCULPTURE GALLERY pleasantly. Open free to the public .. Oh, splendid," answered Stephen, a ring of MONDAY, WEDNESDAY, FRIDAY, pleased excitement in his voice. 12 to 4 o'clock. .. That's good. I've still to call at the mills. You Always in Carberymore you had to pay for things. might as well come along." Here was that irresistibly alluring attraction-some~ thing for nothing. What that something was he did CORK OF THE SHIPS. not know--or knew but vaguely. This element of Stephen turned to watch the river traffic. Up the unknown invested the gallery with a glamour of stream and down big craft and little sailed past, the mystery. Two visitors, a thin bleak~looking man water parting to left and right in a swish of feathery with scanty greying whiskers. and, in strange con~ spray, seething lines of wash in their wake, the trast, a little vivacious woman, 'plump and rosy as a heaped~up waves making a continuous chug~chug ripe cherry, entered the hall. ... He felt shy of against the quay~side. . .. The names of the ships entering, but hesitantly followed in their wake. excited his fancy. The Upupa-that has such a (Continued on palre 46). 46 IRISH TRAVEL December. 1944

CITY THRILLED THIS COUNTRY-BOY-Contd. from page 45. funny sound. one that you had to go on repeating: .. U-pu-pa. U-pu-pa." But what did it mean-bird. MY IRELAND or beast. or river. or star? The Santa Maria-that was lovely. The Flyt'ng Fish~he was doubtful if he cared for that. The word .. fish " sounded flat in his ears. . .. Star of the Sea-that. like the Santa It you've never dwelt 'neath a roof of thatch, Maria, was poetry. A pity the colours of the figure­ In a cottage with white-washed wall . head should have lost their brightness. washed pale If you'ue never sat by a [ire of turf, ' by the action of drifting wind and wave. He should You've never seen Ireland at all. love to restore them-to dip his brush in speedwell blue for the robe-to bring out the chestnut gleam in Did you ever drink from a deep cool spring, the hair-to make that faded star above the head In the shade of the elder trees, glow with the brightness of a living star. The Where ferns made a rim of feathery green, Rover-how good that sounded. And how good to And waved in the gentle breeze? watch her. all her wings outspread. speeding down the river on her way to the open sea. Have you hunted the hills for primrose gold, Or the violet in the dell ; MONTENOTTE AND TIVOLI. Have you heard the cuckoo call for the Spring, That rascal we love so well? From this animated river scene his eye roamed to Montenotte. whose woodland heights dotted with Did yo.u ever [ind. the nest of a lark white villas. with their gardens and lawns and Hidden well In the grasses high, orchards. seemed like a pattern woven into the blue Where the heady scent of the meadow-sweet tapestry of the sky. The" real gentry." he supposed. Made yOll dream as you passed it by? lived in those dream palaces shining through the trees. How lovely life must be up there. Queer. Have you seen a colleen with raven hair, he thought. the way Fortune will cast some into such Eyes spelling forget-me-not; pleasant places and send others reeling down the Have you seen her dance in her bare white feet gangways of ships. crushed under their heavy On the sod beside her cot? burden. He started to find his father's strong hand upon Did you ever ride on a jaunting car, . his shoulder.... On the road by the rocky strand- .. Look. father." he said... that pretty place down If you haven't done that, and laughed your [ill, the river-what's it called?" You haven't seen MY Ireland! .. Tivoli. People who have travelled say it reminds • them of some place in Italy. The walk on the If you've never sat at an old granny's feet, opposite side is the Marina. It runs all the way by And listened to fanciful tales the river down to Blackrock." Of fairy rings in the moonlight bright, .. Down to Blackrock." The phrase recalled to And the Banshee's haunting wails, Stephen the burden of a song he had often heard sung to coax a child into sleeping. Always it 'used Of castles, and wishing-wells, giants grim, to make a picture in his mind in which he saw a· boat Of harps in old Tara's hall; go sailing down a river. its oar keeping time to the It you haven't heard THIS, and you haven't done swaying motion of a cradle: THAT, You haven't seen Ireland at all. We'll go boating, boating, boating, We'll go boating down to Blackrock. -ETTA. G. STORR. New Jersey. U.S.A.

:;" ••••• 111 ••11.11,•••11 •••• 11 ••••• , •• 11., ,.11.'.1'11111111.,•••1••• 1111 ••,.1.111 •• 111111111111111111.11"11111111'11111111" •• 1.111.1.111.1.,•••1111,,"111 ••••III.I.'ll•••• I •••••••'III'.".II•••••••, •••, ••••'111""1111'1'1"1111111,1

DUBLIN SERVICE FLATS (1943), LTD. 28-30 UPPER PEMBROKE STREET, DUBLIN. Telephone 628881 Offer an unequalled service to visitors wishing to see Dublin and its surrounds They are convenient to T rains, Trams, Taxis, Parks, Churches and Cinemas, and give home comforts with hotel luxuries BED-SITTING ROOMS-Single or Double, with or without Private Bathroom HOT AND COLD WATER THROUGHOUT SINGLE INCLUSIVE WEEKLY TERMS, 4 Gn•. DOUBLE INCLUSIVE WEEKLY TERMS, 7& en•. BED & BREAKFAST, 9/6

: 111111..".11111 1111111111 1111 '"1..'111111 111111" 111111 " .. 111'111.11 lfllltlIlUlt IIIIII..".I.lItt Pal'n..u ... December, 1944 IRISH TRAVEL 47 Christmas Arrangements at Hotels Details to hand at time of going to press include DUBLIN: GRESHAM HOTEL. the following: 23rd, 8-12, Dancing. 24th, Orchestra in Lounge. 25th, Orchestra, Enter­ ASHFORD (CO. WICKLOW): BEL-AIR HOTEL. tainment; 7, Yuletide 23rd, 7.30, Welcome Dinner, Cards, Games. .l:~~"'~~Dinner and Entertain~ 24th, Afternoon Car Drive, Invitation Cinema Show ~ '6l .- ment. 26th, 10-3 a.m., at Wicklow; 7.30, Dinner and Question Time. 25th, . ...1.,.,.\ Gala Supper Dance and :'" fl:::' Entertainment. 31st 10­ Putting Competition; 7.30, Gala Dinner, Dancing, ~'" "~7r' S~pper Guests' Concert. 26th, 11 a.m., Treasure Hunt to . 3 a.m.. G a I a "View Rock," Final Putting Competition; 7.30, . Dance and Entertain­ Dinner, Table Tennis Tournament. ment (Orchestra under ]immie Masson). BALLINA (MAYO): DOWNHILL HOTEL. DUBLIN: MORAN'S HOTEL. 23rd, 7, Dinner, Bridge and Whist. 24th, 4~6. 25th, Gala Dinner. 26th, Dinner, Dancing ~ Afternoon Tea and Orchestra; (Special inclusive terms from Saturday, 23rd, to 7, Dinner; Cinderella D a n c e. Wednesday, 27th). 25th, 4.30, Treasure Hunt or Novelty Quiz; 7.30, Christ~ DUN LAOGHAIRE: ROSS'S HOTEL. mas Dinner, Arrival of Father 23rd, 8-12, Dancing, Bridge. 24th, 4-6, Christmas, Par a d e to Christmas Orchestra and Vocalist; 8, Concert by well~known Tree; Carnival Dance. 26th. 3, Artists. 25th, 4-6, Orchestra and Vocalist; 7, Coach Tour of Lough Conn (with Dinner, Dancing and Bridge. 26th, 4-6, Orchestra tea at Pontoon); 7.30, Dinner and and Vocalist; 7, Dinner, Dancing and Bridge. Guests' Concert. 27th. 3, Coach GREYSTONES (WICKLOW): GRAND HOTEL. Drive and tea at Enniscrone; 7.30, 23rd, 7, "Welcome" Dinner, Bridge and Dinner and Dance. " Military" Whist Drive. 24th, noon, Treasure CAHIR (TIPPERARY): CAHIR HOUSE HOTEL. Hunt (Walking); 3, Donkey Derby, Games; 7, Dinner, Impromptu Concert and Cinderella Dance. 24th, 7.30, Dinner, Dancing, Games. 25th, 2.30, 25th, 3, Seven~a~side Rag-ball Hockey, Games in Treasure Hunt; 7.30, Dinner, Whist Drive (Prizes), Ballroom; 7, Gala Dinner, Santa CIaus and Parade Dance (Band-Twilight Serenaders). 26th, Pony to Christmas Tree. Gala Dance. 26th, morning, Drive; 11.30 a.m., Golf Competition, Paper Chase Subscription Draw; 3, " Bingo "; 7, Farewell Dinner, (Ladies' and Gent's Prizes); 7. Carnival Dinner, Fancy Dress Dance. Dance. IMPERIAL (CORK). DALKEY: CLIFF CASTLE HOTEL. 25th, Special Christmas Night Gala Dinner. 26th, 23rd, 7, Welcome Dinner, Dancing, Cards, Rugby Dance. 27th, University Dance. G a m e s. 24th, 3.30, KILLARNEY: GREAT SOUTHERN HOTEL. Treasure Hunt; 7, Dinner, Dancing, San t a CIaus. Orchestra, Billiards, Table Tennis, Whist Drives, 25th, Swimming Gala at etc. In addition to the usual Forty Foot, Afternoon festivities, a Fancy Dress Car­ Cards, Question Time; 7, nival will be held on night of Gala Dinner Dance. 26th, 26th, for which valuable prizes will be provided. 7.30, Dinner, Dancing.

111111111111 IIUII 111111 1111111""1 111111111111111111111111 11I1I1I11I11I1I1I1I1I1f1l1l11l1l1l11111111111111111111111111011""11111111111'''010111111111111111111111111111111111111'11111III1I1Iltllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll·· DOWNHILL HOTEL, BALLINA Phone: Ballina 7 Monday, Christmas Day: Tuesday, St. Stephen'. Day: Ubristmas Season 1944 Lunch, 1 p.m. to 2.30. Afternoon Tea: Treasure Hunt Lunch, 1 p.m. or Novelty Quiz, 4.30 p.m. Christmas Dinner, 7.30 p.m. Coach Tour of Lough Conn, 3 p.m. Saturday, 23rd December: (weather permitting). Dinner, 7 p.m. Afternoon Tea at Pontoon, 4.30 p.m. Bridge and Whist, 8.15 p.m. to 12. MENU Return to Ballina and Dinner, Kidney Soup. 7.30 p.m. Fried Fillet Plaice; Tartar Sauce. Guests' Concert, 8.30 Pol". Sunday, Christmas Eve: . Liver and Saute. Lunch, 1 p.m. to 2.30. Roast Turkey and Limerick . Table Tennis, 3 p.m. to 4. Wednesday, 27th December: Brussels Sprouts, Cauliflower. Lunch, 1.30 p.m. Afternoon Tea and Orchestral Music Boiled and Mashed Potatoes. 4 p.m. to 6. Coach to Enniscrone, 3 p.m. Christmas Pudding and Brandy Butter. (weather permitting). Dinner, 7 p.m. Mince Pies; Trifle. Cinderella Dance, 8.30 p.m. to 12. Tea at Enniscrone, 4.30 p.m. Tea or Coffee; Cheese and Biscuits. Return to Ballina and Dinner at Arrival of Father Christmas and Parade to Christmas 7.30 p.m. TARIFF - ,21/- per day Tree and Carnival Dance, 9 p.m. to 12. Dance, 9 p.m. to 12.

1I1111111111111111111111.1I ...... IIIIIIIII.II.II."."•• II...IIIIIlI'.. II... 1I11111IIIIIIItlIIlUIIIII'.UIIIIIIIlIIIIUllllfll,"I1IIlIlIl.lIlllllllllllllllllllltlltll1II1I1II1I1III1I1I1II1I1fllllllllllllllllllllllIlIlIlUIIIIIIIIUII"III1I~ Water­ at Magic Glencar

By some capnce See, on the left of of the camera this the fall, the Babes photograph of in the Wood, the GlencarWaterfall, Giant's head, the Co. Sligo, came out Old Man of the as a Christmas Sea. On right of puzzle picture full fall, the monkeys, of strange shapes the giant frog. the ot goblins and beaver, and the animals pterodactyl -... December, 1944 IRISH TRAVEL 49 F·oi~ 8 ...... GOiNG" ....·"iioi1'E'.."·...... "·..·"·ciI'Ris'T·MA·S"'·..1

IDIt.tI'It.IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII'.... " •• ' ••• III.'•••• I.I ••• I.11111111111,.11111111111'111111'111111111'11111111111111111IIIIIIIIIIIlllll,IIIIIIIIIIIII"IIIIIII.I"lIllllt.IIIIIII'III.1I111I111111ftl"11111111I11111111I1I1111111I111111I11I1118

HATEVER the difficulties, thousands of SLIGO-IS HOURS. people will go home long distances for Sligo Mail Coach. from the Hibernian Hotel, 48 W Christmas this year. There will be inevit~ Dawson Street, every evening at a quarter before able delays on the 1944 journeys, but the home 9 o'clock, through Lucan, Maynooth, Kilcock, Inn~ pilgrims will get there somehow. Whenever a spot field, Clonard, Kinnegad, Mullingar, Edgeworths­ of impatience breaks out at the slow progress it will town, Longford, Jamestown, Carrick-on-Shannon, be worth while having a meditation on the way those Boyle, Collooney, and arrives in Sligo at noon; others went home for Christmas in '44 of the last leaves Sligo every day at 4 p.m., and arrives in century. Here are a few details from the Dublin Dublin at 7 the following morning. Directory of 1844:-

CARLOW-6; KILKENNY-9 HOURS. WATERFORD-I2 HOURS. Carlow and Kilkenny (Fair Traveller) Day Coach, Waterford Mail Coach, from the Imperial Hotel, from 15 Duke Street every morning (Sunday Sackville Street, at a quarter before 9 o'clock every excepted) at 9 o'clock, passing through Naas and evening, through Naas, Athy, Castlecomer, Kilkenny, Kilcullen, arrives in Carlow at 3, and in Kilkenny at Ballyhale, and arrives in Waterford at 9 next morn~ 6 o'clock in the evening-leaves Kilkenny every ing; leaves Waterford at 6 every afternoon, and morning at 6 and arrives in Dublin at 4 in the after~ arrives in Dublin at 6 the following morning. noon. Well-appointed Jaunting Cars leave Kilkenny every morning, for the accommodation of passengers travelling by this Coach, to Waterford, Cork, Clonmel, Tipperary, etc.

CORK-IS! HOURS. Cork Mail Coach (by Clonmel), from the Mail Coach Office. 12 Dawson Street, at a quarter before 9 o'clock every evening, passing through Naas, hote\ Kilcullen. Carlow, Kilkenny, Clonmel, Fermoy, and Ode1''' ha1f~past tn arrives in Cork at 3 o'clock the next day. lhe u..IS theSe The Coach returns from Cork every day at half-past "ee 12, passing through the above towns, and arrives in Dublin at 7 the following morning, in 18! hours. I~ GALWAY-IS HOURS. Galway Mail Coach, from the Hibernian Hotel, 48 Dawson Street, at a quarter before 9 o'clock every Steel Stock Pot, Fat Fryers, and the evening, through Lucan, Maynooth, Kilcock, Inn~ numerous devices for the kitchen which field, Kinnegad, Tyrrellspass, Kilbeggan, Moate, save time, diminish labour of staff, and make Athlone, Ballinasloe, Lo.ughrea, Oranmore, and a more rapid service practicable for guests; arrives in Galway at 12 a.m.; leaves Galway at a Cutlery, both ornamental and utilitarian, ewbridge or Sheffield made-Carvers, Ham quarter past 4 p.m., and arrives in Dublin at 7 the Slicers, Cooks' Knives; Furniture, artistic following morning. and durable, which en ures greater comfort for guests. They are all available at Hodges LlMERICK-I4 HOURS. (only two doors from O'Connell Bridge). Limerick Day Coach (in 14 hours), from the Hibernian Hotel, 48 Dawson Street, every morning at 8 o'clock, dines at Roscrea, and arrives in Limerick at 10 o'clock same evening; leaves Limerick HODGES at a quarter before 8 every morning, dines at AND SONS, LTD. Monasterevan, and arrives in Dublin every evening 19,20,21 ASTON QUAY, DUBLIN at a quarter before 10. WI

(1) Upper Lake, GI" dalough. (2) Dargle Bridge ~ way to Enniske (3) Along the su~~ coast. (8)

(3) lbum

) J\ I' k low of the Ships. ) Glel\c:ree. ) lhe Road to Glen­ Jrtalure. ) POwel'sc:ourt Gdns. Ugh.

l '--C .....

Q...lr'"' <2.-- Q., r ..-- ?~ 1/" '" ? •••, •••••••••••••••••••••, •••••••• 1••' •••••• 1••• ' ••••••••1'.1"",.""""".1••••11 •• 1••••1,•••••••1 ••• '" ••1••••'· .J•••••••••••••I ••••I ••IIII••••II••I •••••••••••••••••••••••1•••••••••••••1••••••••••••••••••••1 1 ••• 1 .. ~ ~ GARDINER'S ROW Phone LEIX 745151 : CALEDON.IAN HOTEL:' HOTEL DUBLIN I ~e~~;Y .~::df~~~~I?O~~~Y. S!~~~~: Sh~~n~t~~ I A HOME FROM HOME I..,,~~i:::. :~~=~~:.:.~~,::i~~~~~~~~:,~.::.::~:~~:~:~::::,: :~~ .',1••••' ••••,'•••,'•••••,.,••11 •••••••••••••••••••••••••• 1•••••••""""""",.,•• ,.1••••1""'••••••1.'.1'1"'1"'• ...... 1

....1 1•••••••••••1 ••1 •• 1••••• 1••••• 1••1 •• , •• 111 ••••• 1•• 1•••••1""" •••1 •••••1.1"'1•••"'1'11" !! ': Miss MARTIN'S GUEST HOUSE 100 rards from St. Stephen's Green. BUL MOL 11 and 13 12 UPPER PEMBROKE STREET, DUBLIN =!~~~R~:~r}~6~!.~~~~ p".U.II.II.II II.II.IIII.II IU 'UIIII.I••••••••• II•••• 111.111 ..11111'1'.11111.11,11 1.11..111'''. I...... 1.,••, ••••••••••' ••, ••• 1.1••• 11.11••••• 1•••1••••111'1.1'.1••11.1,•• '1 1 I.

HOTEL LENEHAN ..'.""1..1 11 ..".1 11.111 1 ' ..1..1111111111.11 11111 1 11111111.11111 " .. (MISS LENEHAN. Proprletre••) Telephone No. 52043 GRILL ROOM 24-25 HARCOURT STREET DUBLIN MOIRA HOTEL RESTAURANT Noted for Moderate Tenn. and Good l:aterlng. TRINITY STREET, DUBLIN BAR BUFFET Centrally situated; convenient to all places of interest. Meals A la Carle and Table d'Hole Meal. OYSTER BAR' served to Non-Residents. Bus service to and from door to all stations and places of interest. R ..lauranl Open Sunda). Tel. 74559 SMOKE LOUNGE

HOT AND COLD WATER IN BEDROOMS. GARAGE 1••••••••11•• 1•••• 1••••••1,1 ••••••1,.'•••••••,11••••••I' .1•••••, •••••••••••1••1...... , ••••1111•••••••••1...., •••

...... " 1111 ••11 1111••111'1 DUBLIN 1.11..11 11 1 11 "" .. ~""ED'W'i'N""Mi'TC'HE'L'L":~:'~':~"'G'iRL'S~"'B'A'N'D""!~:::_::::::' Phone: 769501 Grams: "Noratap, Dublin" The mo.t modern and popular Band In Ireland NORTH STAR IfOTEL ~~~~:-~N.I~~e~.:f~~ FULLY LICENSED, SO BEDROOMS. MOST CENTRAL "OSITION Featuring HARMONY VOCAL NUMBERS and HAWAIIAN ELECTRIC GUITAR COMFORT RESTAURANT A I. Carte .nd O"en for EXTENSIVE LIBRARY OWN AMPLIFICATION CLEANLINESS COFFEE ROOM Table d'Hote M.a's Engagemenls- AIl communication. 10 8ECRETARY CIVILITY SII101lNG LOUNGE Holcl or Ballroom 117 ROYSE TERRACE, PHIBSBOROUGH, DUBLIN Restaurant Open on Sund.,. For TarlH applll Manager .....11 11111111 11111.111111 11111 111111 111.11 1 11 7 ,:..11 *11111111 11111 11 1111••1111 " ••""""111111..11 " ..11 1111• ••••••••••••••••111•••1.1••••••••••••••••••1 ••• , ••••••••11.111.1 ••• '11••••, •••••••••••••••11.'•••••1••••••••••• 1••••••• .1.IIIIIUIII.IIIIIII.IIII.II.IIII'.'•• II.lfI",••••• , •••• ,.111 •• 11"1111'11'11111.1•• 11.1.111111 •• 111.11.11111.1"1: CO. ROYAL HOTEL, HOWTH DUBLlM Clo.e to Bu. and Rail. Howth Head Bathing Place•. Private Tenni. Court.. Modern Ballroom. Fully Licen.ed. Parties catered for. Phone 45. Apply: MRS. CIBNEY. .,•••••• 1...,1•••• ' •••• ' •••1,••• 11 •••,11••, ••••1.1•••• 1•••1 •••11.11.1•••1••• 111 •••••••••• 1•••••••, •••••••••11."""",

...... 1111 1 1111 ..1 " 11 ..' 11111 ..1111 11 •• 11 IIIIII.: ' II\.:· METROPOLE HOTEL For VALUE AND COMFORT D. H. Telephone 28 KILKENNY ".111 11 , 11 1 11 111.11111.11..111.11.11 111111 11111 ••••• HASKINS &SON, LTD. We regret that many readers have been disappointed by their failure to obtain copies of recent issues of 1.11 ••• 111,••1.'1•••••• 111, ••11'.1••••••• 11 ••••• 1•••••""11""1"""11"1 IRISH TRAVEL Flake and Pinhead OWing to Paper Restrictions we are un~ble to in­ Oatmeal Miller'S crease distribution. Become an annual subscriber and .1111., ••• 11 1.11111 111111 111111.11111 .. Make Sure of a Cop" 5,- YEARLY POST FREE Telegrams: "MASIUMS, WICKLOW" Telephone: WICKLOW 4 WICKLOW IRISH TOURIST ASSOCIATION O'Connell Slreet. DUBLIN

~ IIIIII.. I ..IIII IIIII..II II.I".I.IIII.II It•• I.III.11.IIIII..tllllI.. II ItIIIt •• I .. I ~. :."..11111 1..1111111 '11.11111111.11111.1 ••1., 1111 ..11 1••• , 1..1..1 11 1 1 .. ----.

December. 1944 IRISH TRAVEL 53

@11111111111.1111111.IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIJI.I •••• ,IIIIIII.1111"'11111111111111111111111111.1.1111111.1.11111111l'III'II.~··tll'IIIII'II"I"llll"IIIIIIIII'II'111111111111111111•• 11111111...'1111111".,11111'.11111111••,1111"'1.11111111"11118 IYou Won't Find These in Guide-books' 8"111111"1111111111"'111111111111111"1111111111111"1"1"1'1111'11111"11111'111111 By Patrick Hogan "111111111111111'11"'111111111111111""111"111111111'11";"'11"""111"'111111'8

OME people are genuinely in earnest in their the family circle is complete for the evening endeavours to travel the unbeaten track-the meal? Have you ever joined in the merry~making S unconventional way-but they miss the fact in such a kitchen or at the crpss~roads beneath a that the attraction of the unbeaten track is its harvest moon, when music and dance and song and obscurity. and that all its sweetness and joy and sentiment and love and flirtation combine to form a glamour consist in the discovery of it, the investi~ rustic happiness that can find few equals? These gating of it, the pride of personal achievement in its are things that no guide~book will ever tell you respect. There are hundreds of places in Ireland about. You are on the unbeaten track-the road to which would satisfy their needs. In Dublin City adventure. Who would spoil that road for you by alone I could take a visitor through neglected and attempting to say what is round the corner-beyond forgotten streets and bye~ways replete with incident the hill-down in the valley or hidden in the shelter~ and history, and along which the general tourist ing grove to which you are travelling? scarcely ever travels. Indeed, anyone-no matter how little he knows of Ireland or its Capital City­ can go forth from his hotel and make discoveries BEATING THE BOOK. here and there that will thrill his explorer's being in Personally, I would not exchange the joy I felt in a way that no guide~book excursion will ever do. a discovery I made a month or two ago for any detailed information in a book. The day was hot THE COUNTRY DISCLOSES ITS TREASURES. and I laid my bicycle against the sod wall and It is much more true in the country. If you are a breathed in the healthy mountain air that rolled lover of folklore. there is here a treasure house; if down the hillocks towards me from the West. I the many and diversified flowers of the field have a crossed the wall towards a farmer busy removing meaning for you. there is here a wealth of know~ corn from his stubble land. He was obligingly ledge and happiness to be garnered. Ireland is talkative and gave me information which provided peculiarly rich in the variety and beauty of its wild me with one of the most interesting days I spent for flowers. You can study them in their native haunts. a long time. I crossed the fields towards a huge cromlech. which is locally described as the burial You can investigate the soil most suitable for their mytho~ growth, and you can transplant specimens to delight place of two prominent characters in Irish' you and remind you of a pleasant and healthy logical history, but which is elsewhere regarded as hOliday where first you found them growing. There one of the sun Altars of Ancient Ireland-Altoir na mountain~side are lonely creeks along the sea~coast, where study of Greine. I followed the track up the rock and shell formation will afford pleasant and came to the lone Ogham stone chipped here and recreation for such as are inclined that way. And in there and partly covered with moss and heather. the heart of the country itself there are allurements Further on, I found the disappearing lake, and on that many find irresistible when once tasted. the return journey came to the caves wherein sleep the soldiers of the Fianna Eireann awaiting a certain bugle blast. ROAD TO ADVENTURE. Have you sat in the inglenook of a country farm~ Who would exchange a discovery like this for house when the blaZing peat fire sends sparks and knowledge of the beaten track as followed in the Wisps of blue smoke up the chimney; when the water books? boils gently in a purring fashion as if audibly suggesting its ware on the ~~I"I'IIIIIII"IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII"IIII'II"IIIII"tllllllIlllllIll""1111I11I1I'11I11t11l11111l1f111'11I11I11I1I11~ desire to be linen cloth on changed into the table reflects tea, when the the blaze and The Civil Service Building Society 25 WESTMORELAND STREET - DUBLIN ESTABLISHED 181. * Assets £890,000 Advances made for Building or Purchase of Houses, for Repairs to Property nd for General Purposes, on security of First Mortgage on House Property. LIBERAL ADVANCES • LONG TERM REPAYMENTS Apply: HENRY G. RYDER, Sea-etar/l

..,IIUlllllltIIUflllllllIllllllllllltlllllllllllllltllllllllllllIlIlllllllftlllllllll'lIttlllUIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII§ Still Water and Running Stream The Blac:kwater at Liamore. -- --

December, 1944 IRISH TRAVEL 55 THE FROG AND THE BULL A Fisherman's Story OW I failed to fool a pike that was a .. terror heard about it, it was not what they said that upset of the nation" remains one of my vividest me-it was the way they said it. H Christmas memories. It is a good few years ago now since my friend challenged me during the NO TOREADOR. :;stive season to do battle with the bully. His The most exciting incident of my career as an fortress" was the lake at Luttrelstown Castle, angler took place on the Greece River in Co. Carlow. near Lucan, where the big bed of weeds is covered We started at a bridge, my friend fishing down~ by the close overhang of the bushes. Several anglers stream, while I proceeded upstream. It wasn't long had previously hooked that pike, but he always until I hooked a good trout, and I started to play it broke the tackle and got clear. according to all the known rules of the game. I I gave a lot of consideration as to the best means heard a noise behind me like an engine letting off of effecting his capture and proving myself the steam, and, on looking around, I was transfixed with champion of the day. I finally decided to use a live fear as I gazed into the eyes of a roaring bull. With~ frog on a trace attached to a large cork bung. With out hesitation, I flung the rod into the river and the necessary outfit I cycled out from Dublin through jumped after it. Luckily for me it was only about Castleknock and entered the demesne by the back -4 feet deep. How I crossed the river, or whether I gate late in the evening, so as not to be observed. crawled under the barbed wire fence or over it, on Arrived at the lake, I fastened the frog around its the far bank, I will never know. When the bull Waist with red wool to make it attractive and attached went away I recrossed at a shallower place lower it to a large hook with a swivel, in such a way that down, and as I started to wring out my clothes for the frog would have full liberty to swim about, a drying in the sun, my friend arrived. .. Did you see that bull?" said I. .. He was in the path as I came up the field and wouldn't stir to let me pass," said he, .. so I poked him in the ribs with the handle of the landing net and he waddled off." All I could say, in a weak voice, was: .. Fortune favours the brave," -LAURIE GAFFEY•

•·UIIIII1t1III1IIIIt1,lltllllflll'II.llt"lltllltlltll.llrlllll1111'lltlll'IIIII'IIIIIII"'"IIIIIII'II"IIIIII"III"

(t~ri.$tma.$

Mr. Gaffey

FROG IN A PULLOVER. FROM I then returned to town in the dark, confident that all I had to do was to cycle out to Luttrelstown at daylight the following morning and return in triumph with the monster. But, alas, I· was too sure of SOUTHERN LAKE HOTEL success. When I arrived at the lake~side with two companions, believe it or not, the cork floated buoyantly out on the lake in the breeze, and sitting WATERVILLE on it was the frog, with an abject look of misery, shivering in the cold and the band of red wool around his waist like a pullover. When my friends ::.11111111111,.,•• ,11111,.1111'111111.'.11'11111111.1.1111"1111'11""11'1111'1'11'111111111111""""'1'""I"III~ Solitaries

(1) Near Movllle, Donegal

(2) Lake Muckno, Monagh Gullfon in b k an, SlIeve ac ground

(3) Brandon, Co. Kerry

(4) Lookin9 towards the Connemara Twelve Pins December, 1944 IRISH TRAVEL 57 Hotels and Guests

SHANNON AIRPORT PROMOTIONS. ANOTHER BORDER PROBLEM. Mr. Michael Joseph Lucy, son of Mr. and Mrs. Mr. W. D. Reville, of the Claremont, Howth, has M. Lucy, Southern Lake Hotel, Waterville, who has reminded the .. Caterer and Hotel-keeper" of just been appointed Catering Controller at the London that County Down is not yet outside the Rynanna and Shannon Airport premises, was Six Counties. The" Caterer," in a comment on educated at St. Brendan's, Killarney, Mount Mellary coffee and cakes for two priced 4/6 and a small ice and Blackrock College. He was trained later at with a blob of cream and two tiny pieces of fruit 2/3 Westminster Technical School, London, and had in a Down cafe, had involved its geography with the active practical experience at the Cumberland and Twenty-Six Counties. .. Mr. Reville," writes the Grosvenor Hotels, London. Mr. Lucy, who has had edito"r of the" Caterer," .. says that such high prices 18 months' service at the Airport, succeeds Mr. could never be charged in Eire, where all prices are Brendan O'Regan, who has become Restaurant shown in the official list issued by the Irish Tourist Manager, replacing Mr. George Ennis, who has Board." . taken up an appointment in his native Dublin. RETURN OF THE ANGLER. FOR MANAGERESSES AND PROPRIETRESSES. The Lake Hotel, Oughterard, has been bought by .. It would be a great matter if there were some Mr. J. Egan, Oughterard, from the late proprietor, short intensive courses in Cookery for manageresses Mr. PhilIips. With the post-war return of the fisher­ and proprietresses of hotels, so that they would be man to the West, the Corrib area will become a in a position to advise and criticise the cookery in crowded anglers' country again. their own establishments," a correspondent suggests. This is a post-war plan certainly worth considering. OWing to emergency conditions at the moment and lack of the necessary ingredients all really high­ New Zealand Asks for I. T.A. Films class cookery, cake and sweet decoration had to be abandoned, but. after the war, the three principal The Director of Education, New Zealand, in a schools in Dublin (Rathmines, Pembroke and letter asking for copies of LT.A. fllms, writes: .. I Colaiste Mhuire le Tigheas) and others will resume have noticed in the Bulletin of the British Film as soon as possible their extended programme. Institute reviews of several of your films, including 'Colourful Connemara' and . Dublin, Ireland's Capital City.' In the New Zealand National Film AN OPEN INVITATION. Library there is at present only one not particularly The Hotel Metropole, Cork, gives an open good film of Eire, and I know that a great many invitation: .. We welcome all our old friends, and persons here would welcome the opportunity of hope they will bring new friends this Christmas." learning more of your country. The New Zealand This most comfortable house has installed, among National Film Institute would give your films a wide recent improvements, fine plate glass fittings in the distribution throughout the dominion, and I can mahogany entrance to the lounge. assure you they would be very much appreciated,"

MEMBERS' ANNUAL BADGES for 1945 are now obtainable at Secretary's Office, 63 Dawson St.• Dublin. .. A" BADGE. admits 1 Gentleman ...... £3 0 0 .. B" BADGE. admits 1 Gentleman and 2 Ladies £5 0 0 " C" BADGE, admits 1 Gentleman and 1 Lady £4 0 0 .. D" BADGE, admits 1 Lady .. . £2 0 0 Special rates for Officers of the Defence Forces and members of the Garda Siochana, on application. THE BADGES ARE ISSUED SUBJECT TO THE RULES s. d. OF RACING AND I.N.H.S. RULES. 17 6 7 6 These Badges obtain admission to all stands (a reserved 10 0 portion for the Stewards excepted), Enclosures, etc., and are 5 0 available for Race Meetings held at Baldoyle during 1945. 5 0 58 IRISH TRAVEL December, 1944

PRIZEWINNERS, I.T.A. PHOTO Winter Cod Fishing at Youghal COMPETITION, 1944 1J N. Ireland, angl.ing in salt water is still in its .lI. mfancy. and IS. as yet, practically unknown . save to a few centres. principally Dublin, SECTION I FIRST (£3) KIlmore Quay, Ballycotton, Kinsale, Waterville, and Valencia. But in Winter especially. a trial of the MR. PATRICK DUFFY, Hazeldene, Clonfert Ave., l~sser par~ Portumna (Killarney Ahoy!). known stations might not be regretted, tIcularl~ the places where cod and whiting can be SECOND (£2). taken m sheltered waters. One such place is MRS. D. MAcDERMoT, Coolavin, Ballagh~ Youghal. where less than two hundred yards from aderreen, Co. Roscommon (MacDermot's the shore and within the harbour itself big cod are Castle, Lough Key). caught in Winter. These cod have never been fished THIRD (£1). for with rod and line, but amongst the specimens REv. JOHN HOBSON, Grammar School, Cork taken on handlines in recent years might be men~ (The South Channel, Cork). tioned one of 44 Ibs., and one of 34 Ibs. in 1941 and one of 32 Ibs. in 1942, besides many of between CONSOLATION PRIZES (10/· each) twenty and thirty pounds every season. MR. R. G. HEENEY, 43 Villiers Road, Rathgar, D~ring Dublin (Mulray Bay, Donegal). the. Summer, there are "pickers" or yearhng cod m the harbour, and fair numbers of MR. E. O'NEILL, 40 Kenilworth Park, Dublin them are taken by those fishing for bass and fluke. (A Wheel in Achill). Then about September, "tamblin" or half~grown MISS NOREEN QUINLAN (Sunbeam~Wolsey cod of four to eight pounds begin to make their Holiday Savings Club), 98 Lower Road, Cork appearance. These are the forerunners of heavier (Over the Hills of Kerry). fish as the year advances. SECTION II THE GALES DRIVE THEM IN. Only one ent7'y up to p7'ize standa7'd in this section. With the coming of the south~east gales the big cod grow restless in their feeding grounds beyond SECOND (£2) MR. RICHARD DEEGAN, " ," 21a Prim~ Cape! Island and tend to work inshore. The gale dies away, leaving turbid seas and piles of oar~weed rose St., Dublin (Springtime in ). on the strand. The boats go to anchor in the harbour SECTION III once more. They fall in with big tamblin that FIRST (£3) greedily accept mussels and lugs. Then a fisher~ REv. M. O'DWYER, C.F., Military Barracks, man's line jerks and runs taut, pinning his hand to Youghal (A .on the Ocean) (Great the gunwale. He is into a heavy fish that plunges Blasket Sound). powerfully. The line sheers about and tugs mightily. With no little show of strength, he gets it in yard SECOND (£2) by yard, and, with a tremendous splashing, a huge MR. J. GILSENAN, 16 Whitworth Row, Seville cod comes wallowing to the surface and is pulled, Place, Dublin (Crossing Mangerton -, the struggling, to the gaff. In a boat twenty yards away, Punchbowl). a man jumps to his feet to haul in a straining line THIRD (£1) hand over hand, and another monster comes up. MR. C. W. MAHER, 4 Crescent Gardens, West The big cod have arrived and taken up their Winter Road, Dublin (In the Dargle): quarters, and, from now until Spring. seldom a day CONSOLATION PRIZE (l0/-) will pass but one or more of them will be hooked MRS. E. E. BELL, Belfast Bank House, Newry, by the tamblin fishers-though not always landed! Co. Down (A Donegal Homestead). -MICHAEL KENNEDY.

~II'II'II'I"II"I""IIII'IIIII"II"III"III'I"II'I'1111111"'111111"""'1111"1111111"""'1111'11'""'11"111111111111111"111111111".111111111111'"1111III 111'1'1'1'11111'11111"1"1'111111111.11111'11111'1'11"I"Utlllllllllll'l •• THE NATIONAL BANK LIMITED offers an unrivalled service in the financing of foreign trade and the procurement of funds at the most favourable rates every~ where. Every description of foreign business is transacted. DUBLIN: 34 & 35 College Green. LONDON: 13-17 Old Broad St., E.C.2 234 Office. throughout Ireland and 26 Office. in London and Great Britain. Agents and Correspondents throughout the World ESTABLISHED 1835

-i.II , ••••••I ••••••••' •••,.,II••• II ••••• 1•• , •• 11 •••11,•••' •••••••'1•• 11111••••••, •••••••·.,••"1'1""'1"'1'1""""'1.""1""1'1"'1'1'111"'1.'1.'•••••••11.1111••••, ••" •••••••11••' •• ,.111." •• '.1111111111'1111'111111111;- December. 1944 IRISH TRAVEL 59 ...

LINK WITH CHARLES DICKENS rThe Bicycle on the Hearth

OR most people November spells" Finis" to their cycling activities. And now with our F mounts carefully greased and stored away we await the .. Dawn of a new day." Spring once more will see us all on the road again, but, for the moment, we are out of season and there is nothing left to us but our memories. We cyclists now spend ma ,y a pleasant evening around our firesides, listening to and relating our experiences of the past summer. Beautiful Memorial in Collon Church, Louth, to Mrs. One moment we are in the South on the banks of Percy FitzgeraId. wife of Percy Fitzgerald of Fane the Lee. only to be. next moment. removed to the Valley. author of 200 books. works of painting and hills of Donegal. From here we may wander in sculpture, and friend of Charles Dickens. etc. mind back to the Midlands, or to the West to lovely Connemara, or South into the Golden Vale. IN STEPHEN'S GREEN. Each of us seems to have one county or district which he would hold up as an example to any other. My pal would wave the flag of Kerry; another holds out for Cork; yet another for the Golden Vale; still others never tire of praising Wicklow and its mountains; more clamour for Donegal. I myself never give up praising Connemara and its wilderness. and also Mayo. Such p I ace s as Delphi, Mallaranny, Killary Harbour, Leenane, Clifden, Louisburg, and Kylemore, are not easily rivalled.

MAPPING FUTURE RUNS. Photos are passed from hand to hand and also souvenirs and other remembrances we treasure as the talk goes round. And so the night comes to an end, but not abruptly. because even though we decide it is time to adjourn. still the chat inevitably Lovely in Winter and Summer. turns to what we intend doing next year. and before one knows what has happened, the table and floor MILKING TIME and every conceivable place are covered with maps and road books. and an hour is spent in discussion of the merits of different routes and itineraries. But despite all help given, many are they who are still troubled because they have a whole list of different routes on hand and find it very hard to decide on anyone in particular. So you see. even though' we have not the open road to enjoy at the moment, we still enjoy cycle chats and cycle problems for the future around a cosy fireside. While other people are trying to find the post­ war plan,. we have ours ready-made, so far as holidays, at any rate. are concerned, in our cycling itineraries planned ahead. D O'B - ES. RIEN. ~~;~~ ~·~·~;·;·;~·~; ;~; ~~·~~· ·I::::::~:· · ......

2 Double.oven Duke of York Gas Ranges. I Double-unit Potato Steam~r (gas): Maker-Stott. Oldham: Capacity-6.7 cwt. I Four. Pan Auto Fish Fryer. Absolutely new and unused. ON VIEW DUBLIN. Particulars. Do" A.I. c/o. Irish Trave' •.1111.11,••• ,'•••• ' •• ' ••••• 1••, •• 11 ....' ••, ••111 •••••1'1"'1.,1111111111,.1,1""'11"1,11,.1"""11.1',111"IIII"'i. A Picture from Donegal. ~"""""'II""""'IIII"I"'III1I'''IIIIIIIIIIIU'IIIIIIIIIIIII'II'II''IIII.tll''''"1111....11..1111...... 1111...... 111.1 ..1111.11111....11...... 1111...11..1.....11.....1111.1I...., ...... III.lIlIlInlll...II.IIIIII...IIIIIIIIIIII.... ~ ! When visiting Ireland COME RACING ! and see THE WORLD'S FINEST BLOODSTOCK in Competition On ALL RACECOURSES you will find a complete and efficient j TOTALISATOR SERVICE OPERATED BY THE BOARD OF CONTROL FOR MECHANICAL BETTING IN IRELAND, D'OLlER HOUSE, D'OLlER ST., DUBLIN ~ .... IIIIIIIIII.IIIIIII IIIIIII.. I ..IIIIII..IIIIIIIII.IIIIU'I.II'III.III IIU II , 11 1111' 11 11 II IIU.i:

....1•••••••• 1 , •••,.,.,1.1••1 ••••• " ••••••••11••1,"1"'.11'1••• 1•• , 1,•••1.""'," •••••• ~ •••••II , ••II.IIII , II II II I ~ CARNA, CONNEMARA, CO. GALWAY MONGAN'S HOTEL i * To make sure, order your i First.c1a•• Lalr.e and Sea Fi.hing. Shooting ~ copies of IRISH TRAVEL ~ Beautiful Bathing Beache.. Mountain. River, Lair... Sea Pbone: CARNA 3. J. W. MONGAN. Proprietor i in advance for 1945 i ~ * : ~ :"""""""""""""''''I••,''UWJ.,.,'II''.''.'.''II II II.IIII IIII .. ; ••,.111•••••••••••, ••, •••••,1•••••1.11•••••••"""""""""""""""""" •• , ••1•••• 1.11 ••••• 1•••• 1••• "I""~ I·"'~~~..;~~· ..;~~·~"'~·~~·~~=;~;~; ..;~·; ...., .....B·E·N·N..E·R;..S...... H'o'y·E·L....1 AT THE A.A•• R.I.A.C. One minute C.S. Bus Depot ~ T:~::~:~: DINGLE, KERRY I Golf Links Hotel :1 ..1..1111111111.1111111 ...'1111111 ...1..111111 ...1.1'..1...... 111111 ..1..1'"11111'111111""111111111'''11111'''';- GLENGARRIFF ·..TiiE...... G'RANO' ...... '..·HOTEL..·'i TELEPHONE 9 --- FOR RESERVATIONS ro!~~EE for Comfort I ;; 111111 ..1I..1I.1I1I1I11I••II..IIIt..II.III1 II.II ,III.., ..tllI IIII..~ '1 11 111 1111111..11 11 1 11111 ' 11' 11"'11111111111111'"11111.;

':'-"""1.1111111111.1111.1111111111111.111.1'1.11111111111111111111111111111111111""'''111'''"'"'1'"1111111'''111''1111111111111111111111111'1 ...1111 ..1111111111.11.1111111111.1111 1 1..'1 ' ..1 ' .. 1.111111I1"1"1"1I11"'~ "1 This Guide, which runs to 252 pages and contains reliable advice upon the choice ~ : of a district for the pursuit of any particular class of angling, includes one large' : § THE ANGLER'S GUIDE linen-mounted folder map ~f Ireland. togetber with tbree detailed area map.. 'g :: Price 2/6. By Post. 2/10 E j § (Prepared by the Department of Fisheri..) To be obtained through an]> bookseller or I.T.A. Bureau•• Dublin. Belfasl. Cork. or direct from:- ~ ~ • GOVERNMENT PUBLICATIONS SALE OFFICE, 3-4 COLLEGE STREET. DUBLIN ~

~ •• II.II••••'I.tl.I.'I'ttlll.I.lt•• IIII.tl.'I.".II.1111.1111"'1.1.11'1.1'1.,•• 1•••, •••1',1111.,""'1"'"11.,1.'••, ••••••••••• 11 ••••' •• 1••••".1.11•• 1.1 ••, •• 1••, ••••' ••1.1,.,1111•••••••••••, ••••, ••••••••••••••,1•• 1•• I ••'.t•••••••,••••••• I ••~

.'..IU I ,II IIIIII.It IU.."H..III I1.. I III II 11 11.." 1111111111 11 11 U IIIII..fI II II.. , ..III..II ,I I ~

THE MUNSTER & LEINSTER BANK Ltd. Head Office: 66 SOUTH MALL, CORK 208 BRANCHES AND SUB.BRANCHES: Comprehensive BANKING & FOREIGN EXc;HANGE Service DUBLIN BRANCHES: DAME STREET O'CONNELL STREET GRAFTON STREET INCHICORE PHIBSBORO PEMBROKE DONNYBROOK RATHGAR DRUMCONDRA BAGGOT STREET RATHFARNHAM CRUMLlN BELFAST LIMERICK DERRY GALWAY Clonmel Branch.

...." ' ••1•••11,••••••,11 11 •• , 11 11 11 11 11 11.11 11 , ••11 Ub; LT.A. SALE PUBLICATIONS D'Hilril's for GUIDES (Illustrated) CONNACHT. Galway, Connemara, Mayo, Achill, ligo, sanitary fittings Lough Gill, Leitrim and Roscommon. 148 pp. 6d. CORK. City and County. 128 pp. 6d. DONEGAL. Including the Highlands, Inishowen, Bundoran. for 130 pp...... 6d. HOTELS DUBLIN. City and County. 230 pp. Map 1/­ \Vhether it's just one \yashbasin or equipment for an GALWAY. City and County 3d. GLENDALOCH (Wicklow). Guide; Maps 6d. entire hotel, our experience and advice are freely available. KERRY. 150 pp. Two Maps 6d. Let us quote you. K1LLARNEY 3d. LIMERICK. City and County. :\Iaps. 84 pp. 3d. J. J. O'HARA & CO. LTD. 29. 30, 31, LINCOLN LOUGHREA 3d. WATERFORD. City and County. 74 pp. 3d. PLACE, DUBLIN. TELEPHONE 61576 - 7 - 8 WICKLOW/WEXFORD. Two-County Guide 6d.

MAPS :'"11111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111110111111111111.111111111111111111 ~ DUBLIN. Street lIIap. Stiff Covers 6d. IRELAND. 12 miles to 1 inch on paper. Sti ff Board Covers 6d. IRELAND, as above, on cardboard and eyeletted for hanging. GRAND HOTEL 2/6 Fully OnRailand OTHER PUBLICATIONS Licensed WICKLOW Bus Routcs CANOEING IN IRELAND. By Major Raven-Hart. Covers the Shannon, Erne, narrow, Suir, Nore, Dlackwater, Doyne, Liffey, etc., and Lochs COlTib, ~faskJ Neagh MOST CENTRAL FOR TOURING and Killarney Lakes; also Loch Foyle and some Coastal are~ I~ Hot and Cold Running Water in all Rooms IRELAND OF THE WELCOMES. 3rd Ed. By D. L. Kelleher ... 2/- Own Garden Produce Private Tennis Courts IRISH CURIOSITIES. lOO pp. o[ Pictures 2/- Putting Green. Golfing, Boating, Fishing and MOUNTAINEERING IN IRELAND. Dublin, Wicklow, Bathing adjacent Kerry, Tipperary, Connemara, ~lourne, Donegal, etc. 1/6 elLLUSTRATED BROCHURE SENT ON REQUEST

Irish Tourist Association, O'Connell St. Dublin Tclcphone No. 37 J. A. CLANCY. Manager

1111t11111t111'11111111111111111111111111111111111111I1111111111111'1111111111111""11111111111111111'111111111I' 11111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111II1I1II1I1II1I1II1UIIIIIIII.,

Telephone: DUBLIN 22241-44 JURY'S OTEL DUBLI comfort~ Cuisine e EXCELLENTLY SERVED Service MEALS

WYNN'S HOTEL • ABBEY STREET • DUBLIN Phone 75/3/ Telegrams: JURY'S DUBLIN

_O'Kee//e's•••••••••••••••••••• CARDS WORTH KEEPING I A Christmas Card with a I view will be kept long after I the others are forgotten I I 10.000 Real Photo Prints of scenes I and types all over Ireland. Printed to I your own choice and order, mounted I or unmounted. in black-and-white or I sepia. Unframed prints from 1/6 each I L_____------I HOWTH AND IRELAND'S EYE. a:~rl$tm

Extra charge for printing Name and Address on above: 1 doz. 2/-; 13.50,2/6; 51-100,3/-; 101-200,4'-; 201-300. 5 -; every additional 100 or part thereof. 1/-

ARDMORE, co. WATERFORD.

Your Own Negatives The Ideal Christmas Card-a set of personal photographic Greeting Cards made from your own negatives. 6 for 3/-; 12, 51-; 50. 15/-; 100. 27/6

THE IRISH TOURIST ASSOCIATION 14 Upper O'Connell Street, DUBLI Phone: 74719 74710. Grams: Tourerin, Dublin WEXFORD COTTAGE......

Published by the Proprietors, IRISH TOURiST ASSOCIATION, 15 Upper O'Connell Street, Dublin, and printed by WM. WARREN & SON, LTD.• 15 Lower Ormond Quay, Dublin. Other Offices of the A'Sociation:-BELFAST: 17 Queen's Arcade. CORK: 65 l'atrick Street. PRINTED IN DUBLIN.