ST ’S WAY 2020

St Kevin’s Way is a moderate grade, way-marked, linear trail of around thirty kilometres that follows the old pilgrimage route known as St Kevin’s road.

Following the death of St Kevin of , the monastery in Glendalough became a place of pilgrimage as the stories of Kevin’s life and the miracles attributed to him became widely known. Pilgrims travelled to Glendalough in search of healing throughout the year, and the pilgrimage became well known as an alternative to travelling to Rome. Nowadays, it is regarded as an alternative to the well-known Camino de Santiago. The ‘pattern day’ or ‘Patron day’ was the third of June, the anniversary of Kevin’s death in 618 A.D, or his ‘Resurrection’ as it was known by early Christians. It was celebrated by the crowds of pilgrims who attended the Fair. The activities, which included fighting, gambling and drinking, ceased in 1862 when the Catholic bishops put a stop to such ‘religious celebrations’!

Pilgrims travelled from many different directions, and the many paths that lead to Glendalough are all known as ‘St Kevin’s’ Road. However, the path from Hollywood was said to be the path walked by Kevin himself when he left Hollywood in search of the greater isolation of the glacial crags of the Valley of the Two Lakes.

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History

In earlier times, there may have been a pre-existing trading route through the linking west Wicklow with the sea. Nowadays, we might wonder how Kevin found Glendalough to be a more peaceful location than Hollywood but in ancient times, the Hollywood area marked a very important cross roads between the ancient north to south road known as the Slighe Chualann and the east to west trading View towards from Church route which connected the sea ports on the east coast with the fertile plains of Kildare at .

Church mountain is known as one of the four main Lughnasagh pilgrimage mountains sites in . The other three are Slieve , and .

Pilgrims travelling to Glendalough from the direction may have taken another ancient path through the village of Valleymount, and over the hill known as the Togher. It was documented that pilgrims from both directions would meet at Ballinagee.

They waited here until there were sufficient numbers to travel on towards and the . Tonelagee means ‘back to the wind’. There is another mountain called Fair Hill south of Tonelagee. This name reflects the location of a campsite near a big rock below Fair Hill that was used by pilgrims travelling to the ‘Fair’ at ‘Seven Churches’ or Glendalough. It is possible that this area was used before a church and huts were built at Templeteenaun, Ballinagee. The pilgrims then travelled in groups over the Wicklow Gap which was quite a perilous journey in those days.

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The Hollywood Stone

There are carved standing stones and boulders along both routes. The most famous of these is called the Hollywood Stone although it was found in the Valleymount area. It can be viewed in the OPW Visitor Centre in Glendalough. The Hollywood Stone is a huge granite boulder carved with a labyrinth pattern known as ‘The Walls of Troy’ These patterns are associated with pilgrimage all over the world and the discovery of this stone implies the importance of this ancient pilgrimage route in previous times. The stone was found by some local people who were catching rabbits with a ferret. When the ferret got stuck in a rabbit hole, a bar was used to move a boulder in order to dig out the ferret. Peter Byrne from Lockstown recognised the carving on the rock that they moved with the bar. St Kevin’s Road was known to exist, as it appears on very early maps, but the exact location of the road had been lost over time. In the 1990’s, a group of people who were interested in the preservation of local heritage came together to research the location of the route. They were lucky to have a number of resources to refer to, along with the Heritage Council’s decision to fund the reclaimation of known pilgrimage routes in Ireland to mark the Millennium year of 2000. Previous work done by Liam Price JP and Paddy Healy was utilised along with interviewing local people and days spent walking in the hills. State archaeologist Peter Harbison made a lasting impression as he climbed up and down ditches, through briars and bogs, checking interesting finds, whilst splendidly dressed in jacket and tie. St Kevin’s Way Committee, as the group became known, succeeded in having St Kevin’s Way opened in 2001 as a way-marked trail with the considerable assistance of the Heritage Council, Coillte and National Park.

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St Kevin’s Way and Pilgrimage Passports

There followed a period of decline in interest in the walking trail until Easter Saturday in 2014 when a guided walk was held in conjunction with John O’Dwyer’s Pilgrim Paths Ireland. A new group known as Friends of St Kevin’s Way was created to keep the trail open to the public with much help from Wicklow Partnership, Wicklow Mountains National Park and the Rural Recreation officers, Pat Mellon and Bryan Fennell.

St Kevin’s Way became one of the five designated Pilgrim paths in Ireland to be included in the Irish Pilgrim Path Passport. On completion of the route, walkers can get their passport stamped with a labyrinth symbol. When all five routes are completed, the walker is eligible for the ‘ Teasta Oiithreachta’ (Irish Pilgrim Walk Certificate). Passports can be stamped in the Hollywood Café and at the Information Office of Wicklow Mountains National Park. To obtain a passport or for more information, you can visit Hollywood Café in the old post office in Hollywood village or contact [email protected]

For information on the Pilgrimage Passports and more up to date news and Information on St Kevin’s Way and other pilgrimage routes in Ireland, visit www.pilgrimpathireland.ie Or check out the facebook page ‘Glendalough Pilgrimage’

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Recent improvements to the trail

In 2019/20, following a generous grant from the Department of Rural and Community Development (Outdoor Recreational Infrastructure Scheme 2016), St Kevin’s Way was upgraded to make it safer and easier to follow. The funding was obtained by St Kevin’s Way Partnership, the group that replaced the previous committees. The stepping stone river crossing over the Glendasan River, north of , has been replaced by a foot bridge

Parts of the dangerous road sections have been re-routed onto a beautifully constructed, new trail. The existing boardwalk has been upgraded and two car parks at the Wicklow Gap have been resurfaced. The improvements were carried out by the staff of the Wicklow Mountains National Park and Wicklow County Council. Native trees have been planted along the side of the new trail to enhance biodiversity and provide some shelter.

Safety issues: the trail is a linear path so it requires car parking for those who are walking. There are few car parking spaces in Hollywood and Valleymount villages, so you are advised to park in the managed car parks in Glendalough. Please do not leave valuables in your car, especially when parking on the Wicklow Gap. Please take great care when walking along sections of public road.Visibility for on-coming traffic can be poor and there is no safe path for walkers.

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The Route

St Kevins Way has two starting places in West Wicklow to reflect the routes taken by pilgrims in previous times.

One in Hollywood village and one in Valleymount village

The route is marked by black direction posts with a yellow pilgrim symbol and there are brown fingerpost signs at road junctions. It consists of some farmland tracks over private ground, minor roads, forest trails, a few short major road stretches, and specially constructed gravel paths. It is not a Right of Way except for the public road sections so please respect the landowner’s wishes and follow ‘Leave No Trace’ principles. Do not bring dogs onto private land, keep to the designated path and close all gates. The trail is a pedestrian trail only. You are requested not to operate drones unless you have a permit and refrain from disturbing any livestock or wild animals.

The full route is about a seven hour Downloadable Maps are available from: walk. From Ballinagee Bridge, it takes https://visitwicklow.ie/item/saint-kevins-way/ about four hours to Glendalough, and from the Wicklow Gap to Glendalough The entire route is delineated on the map: is around two hours, allowing for stops ‘Wicklow Mountains West‘ along the way. The altitude at the Available from: Wicklow Gap is 440 metres. www.eastwestmapping.ie

Please note that you are responsible for your own safety while walking this path. In the unlikely event that you require medical assistance, please ring 999 or 112 and make a request for Mountain Rescue. Your phone will access emergency calls even if you are out of range of a phone signal.

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West of the Wicklow Gap

The Hollywood Spur follows the bottom of a beautiful valley overlooked by a statue of St Kevin. The statue is perched on rocks above a cave where he was reputed to live before he went to stay in Glendalough There is a holy well in the village named after him. Prayer tree in Hollywood Glen St Kevin and his cave

Leaving the village, the trail passes near the site of church ruins at Dunboyke, which is on private land. It then follows a narrow road known as Scalp Lane to the R 756 Wicklow Gap road. Please be careful on this stretch of public road of about 2km to Coonmore as there can be fast traffic. It then follows the south bank of the King’s River along a peaceful stretch of road until the road becomes a very beautiful path heading to Oakwood. Here you cross the river and meet the Valleymount spur.

Valleymount Spur Pilgrims travelling from the direction most likely passed through Valleymount where there is an alternative trail head. There is a history of granite carving in the area. Many fine examples can be seen in the village.

The route then follows a straight line all the way to the top of the Wicklow Gap which you can see from the top of Togher hill. You meet an original stretch of St Kevin’s Road at the bottom of what is known locally as Hogan’s Bank where the tarred road turns sharp right to meet the Wicklow Gap road. The original section leads straight on through a gap in the forestry towards private farm Valleymount land and on towards Templeteenaun.

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Templeteenaun

In the 1950’s, and 60’s, when the first Sitka spruce plantations were planted, local folk memory ensured that an area near Ballinagee was left unplanted as it was said to be an ancient burial ground or a ‘Cillín’. It also happened to be in line with St Kevin’s road, as was documented on a very old map in the Lodge at Glenbride. Known as Templeteenaun or Templefinan, it remained a bit of a mystery but seemed to contain the ruins of an old church.

Then in the summers of 2004 to 2008, the site was investigated by UCD School of Archaeology students as a landscape archaeology research project under the direction of Aidan O’Sullivan and Graham Warren. It was found to contain some hut sites, a ruined, medieval nave and chancel church, , burials and paths. There is a laneway with two walls, paved with cobbles, that leads to an entrance into a walled enclosure. There are two cairns containing small rounded river stones from other locations. These were probably carried by pilgrims on their journey and left at the site to represent their intentions for the pilgrimage. The church in the North-west of the enclosure is similar to Trinity and Reefert church in Glendalough and may date back to the 11th or 12th century. It is easier to see the ruins in winter when the bracken dies down. Medieval pottery, worked stones, charcoal, burnt bone and iron items, possibly from horses’ harness were discovered during the excavations. It seems to have been a stopping place for pilgrims, possibly a pilgrim’s hostel. It is possibly connected with St Finan, known as a disciple of St Bridget of Kildare. One of the names of the site is Teampall Fionain. The name of the neighbouring townland of Glenbride being another possible link with Kildare. It may have been used later as a burial place. Nowadays, it is a very peaceful clearing in the plantation, with some oak trees and stones covered with moss and ferns. Deer doze in the sunshine where pilgrims once used to congregate, adding their paths and tracks to those of the past.

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The Route east of the Gap

On some sections, it is possible to see traces of the original stone flagged route. At the top of the Wicklow Gap, you can see the construction of the raised profile of St Kevin’s Road where it intersects the road to .

Disused lead mines with Fiddlers row in the distance on the right of the Glendasen river

Pilgrims follow the part of SKW that was mapped out by Patrick Healy in the 1940’s on behalf of the ESB

A newly constructed granite path leads down to Fiddler’s Row through the remnants of the lead mines. The road was given this nickname as there were good musicians living here. The trail follows the south side of the Glendasan river, but if you look across to the northern bank of the river, you will see clear signs of the original road as it passes through privately owned farm land and gardens. You will also see some beautiful stepping stone crossings across the river and pass an old weir that once was used to generate electricity for the local residents

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Geology

St Kevin’s Way follows the general line of glacially eroded valleys in the mainly granite based Wicklow mountains.

At Slievecorragh there is a glacial meltwater Jackdaw’s Glen, looking west channel which was created about 10,000 years ago at the melting of the ice sheet. You will notice that it is a rocky gorge that does not

have a river flowing through it. Locally, it is

known as The Jackdaw’s Glen.

The trail then follows the Kings River valley floodplain up until the gradient rises at Ballinagee towards the Wicklow Gap which is the highest point of the route. There, you will see a Corrie lake called Lough Nahanagan which is now part of the hydro-electric power station at Turlough Hill. Lough Nahanagan was Jackdaw’s Glen looking east reputed to contain a 'piste' (a water monster) who lived in the deep dark waters of the corrie lake which never gets any sunlight.

After passing the top of the Wicklow Gap, you descend towards Glendalough through another glacial trough formed by the glacier that originated at Lough Nahanagan. This is the Glendasan valley. It contains the remains of disused lead, zinc and silver mines. Lough Nahanagan is now part of Turlough Hill The ores were laid down in seams in the area power station. The ‘Piste’ has departed but the dark where the two main bed rock types of granite corrie lake remains in it’s modern role as an energy and mica-schist meet. storage system.

The monastic village itself is built near the terminal moraine created by the deposition of the sands and gravels carried by the previous glaciers which created the valleys of Glendasan and Glenealo.

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West side Archaeology

Hollywood Spur

Just east of the beginning of the trail sits St Kevins Church in a walled mound which suggests it may have been a ceremonial site predating Christianity. The graveyard contains some medieval cross inscribed stones. The church is dated to the seventeenth century but there are records of the existence of a church in the thirteenth century. Opposite the church is another mound known locally as the castle bank. It is the remains of a Norman motte and bailey, marking a castle owned by the de Marisco family.

Initially, you pass through a beautiful glen locally known as Corrigan’s Glen. There are two caves in the small cliff on the eastern side. One is known as St Kevins Cave and the other is called St Kevin’s Bed. The curved stone opposite them is known as St Kevin’s Chair and said to be a cure for backache, although if you have backache you would not be able to sit down on it!

St Kevin’s Chair with the Castle Bank in the distance

Not far from the end of Corrigan’s Glen, there is a stone circle known as the Piper’s Stones in the townland of Athgreany. They mark what could be an old route from Glendalough to Kildare Pipers Stone Circle, Athgreany. via Old Kilcullen and Dun Ailinne

Leaving the Glen and turning left, you follow a quiet country lane known as Scalp lane along the side of another glen. From here, you can see ruins of another old church site at Dunboyke. It contains a bullaun stone in the grounds. This area also known for a famous battle that was fought between the men and the men of in the year 598. A little further along, on the right, there is a bi-vallate ringfort in the townland of Toor. It marks the side of a steep sided gorge known as Jackdaw’s Glen.

At the head of Jackdaw’s Glen are two small field enclosures known as Chapel Park. The name suggests a connection with possible pilgrimage . The mountain beside the glen is Church mountain which was a famous pilgrimage mountain in pre-Christian and post-Christian times. There used to be a passage tomb on the summit which was replaced by a church.

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West side Archaeology

Valleymount Spur

Near the beginning of the Valleymount spur, there is a sweat house in Annacarney. It is a little way north of the road junction with . This is one of the only sweat houses in the east of Ireland. It is not known whether it has any relationship with SKW but it is possible.

Also on the Valleymount spur, St Kevin’s Way follows the R758 over the hill known as ‘Togher’ hill whose name implies an ancient pass. The road is also called the ‘Wooden Cross’ There is a boulder on the verge of the road with a cross inscribed on it.

Cross inscribed stone on the verge of the road over Togher

The lane leading to the left at the top of Togher hill leads to Glenbride where there is reputed to be a church on the side of . The corner here is called Butter hill and contains the remains of ancient hut sites. They may have been connected with pilgrimage or an outpost of Templeteenaun which is on the opposite side of the valley.

Granabeg Stone

Halfway between Valleymount and the top of the Togher there is small lane on the right that leads to Granabeg. It has a pillar stone with a cross in raised Ballinagee hill marks the area where the two relief on one face and a ‘Cillín’ spurs converge. There are stretches of the nearby. It is presumed to be original road that you can see in farmland. Hidden connected with the pilgrimage within the forest, are the ruins of Templeteenaun, route

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East side Archaeology

At the top of the Wicklow Gap, there is a boardwalk to a viewing platform that bisects a part of the original St Kevin’s Road. The road construction is discernible. At about four metres wide, it is about a metre above the ground level and paved with very rough, granite slabs. Ditches on each side provide drainage. The present layer of blanket bog peat has grown to a depth of around one metre over the original section. This area was excavated by the National Museum of Ireland in 1972.. A small metal token from around the seventeenth century was found. The path leads downhill through the ruins of disused mining activity towards Glendalough. There is a small field near the area of the monastic settlement called St Kevin’s Keeve. It contained numerous bullaun stones. Sometimes called the Seven Fonts It is said to be the place where tired pilgrims washed their feet. There is also a tradition of a ‘Holy’ bush here. It is not far from St Mary’s church which is located outside the walled enclosure of the Monastery.

To visit St Mary’s church you cross a stile opposite the T-junction where Fiddler’s Row joins the road to Glendalough. On the right is a recently erected, carved stone placed in memory of the unbaptized babies who were buried in the Cillín in the west corner of the graveyard at St Mary’s.

There is one of the original bullaun stones at the altar in the eastern end of this lovely building. Though I am not suggesting its use for washing sore feet in its present location as is too high! There is a Saltire cross carved into the underside of the lintel stone above the western doorway.

The pilgrims of old would arrive at a double-arched gateway to the enclosed Monastic City. They were greeted by cross that is carved in a large mica-schist rock set into the wall on the right hand side after entering the enclosure. This is to signify they had entered into a place of sanctuary. The bridge to the left of the gateway is relatively recent and if you look underneath, you will see the original stepping stones .

The round tower, would have been visible to the pilgrims all the way down from the top of the Wicklow Gap. It is beside an area that used to be a Fair Green and is a nice place to rest after the journey. Round tower seen from

Arriving at the Fair Green St Mary’s Church

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Nature along the Way

Blanket Bog, rocky slopes, and mixed Coniferous forest There are a mixture of different habitats along St provide diverse habitats along the Glendasan valley Kevin’s Way and the walker will have many opportunities to appreciate the flora and fauna associated with them. Leaving the villages behind, you will travel along lanes that have an abundance of shrubs and wild flowers depending on the time of year. Many of the fields here have been reclaimed from marginal land. Further on, there is a raised bog by the name of Leeragh’s bog on the south of the Kings River valley. Also notable is the remains of an ancient oak forest on the east side of the small bridge crossing the Kings River near Ballinagee. The area is known as Oakwood. Otherwise, the woodlands are Coillte plantations of Sitka spruce with some Lodgepole pine. Rowan and Birch are present along the margins. You then come to the prevalent habitat of the Wicklow Mountains National Park which is mainly Notable bird species to watch out for are the blanket bog. Raised bogs and Blanket bogs are of raptors that thrive on open moorlands and high ecological importance and are globally rare. craggy places such as Peregrine Falcon, Merlin, and Kestrel. There are carrion eating species, such as Ravens, Hooded crows, Red Kites and Buzzards. Smaller birds abound - look out for Goldcrests, Meadow pipits and Skylarks among many others. You may see Dippers along the rivers. They love to nest under old bridges and will actually go under the fast flowing water to forage for caddis fly larvae and other larvae species. Flowering Gorse Birch, Gorse, Bracken and Molina provide shelter for Sphagnum moss a diverse range of species

And do not overlook the lichens and mosses. Notable species are Sphagnum moss that cre- ate the blanket bog. It can hold between sixteen and twenty-six times its weight in water along with having antiseptic properties and being an excellent carbon sink.

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Species along the Way

Hybrid Sika/Red deer family Up on the heights you will see herds of feral goats and Sika/Red hybrid deer along with signs of Foxes and Badgers. Less commonly, you may see Pine martens, Mountain hares and perhaps an occasional glimpse of Otters if you are really lucky. The rivers contain healthy populations of Brown trout.

The Blanket bog supports all the heather species, Ling, Bell and Cross-leaved Heath. There are the thorny Gorse bushes, which are almost always in flower, and a variety of grasses such as Purple moor grass, Sedges and Rush species.

Feral Goat

Flowers of the Blanket bog include Bog Asphodel, various Orchids, Milkwort, and the carnivorous Sundew. There are also rare alpine plants on the higher reaches of the hills beside Saint Kevin’s Way.. Regarding tree species, you will see various Willow species, Rowan, Downy Birch, Sessile oak, Ash, and Holly. There are beautiful Scots Pine trees along the Glendasan River that were planted to provide pit props for the mines and are now providing a habitat for a thriving population of native Red Squirrels.

Invertebrates that thrive in this area include the Emperor hawkmoth in the heather, Green Hairstreak butterflies along forest margins and Grayling butterflies in the mines area. There are too many insect species to mention here but if you look closely, you will find many fascinating Female Emperor moth White-tailed Bumblebee on examples of teeming life in miniature in every part of the trail. Ling Heather

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Nature Connection

Your companions will be the Ravens wheeling overhead and the song of the Skylark, heard and not seen, with glimpses of shy deer amongst the trees as your footsteps follow the path taken by so many who came this way before you through the centuries past.

.References: Medieval Irish Pilgrim Paths by Peter Harbison &

www.pilgrimagemedievalireland.com by Louise Nugent

www.pilgrimpath.ie

Text: Eleanor Sutherland, Education Guide, WMNP

Photographs: Ann FitzPatrick, Conservation Ranger, WMNP

Gillian Stewart, Education Guide, WMNP

David Lawton, Education Guide, WMNP

Eleanor Sutherland, Education Guide, WMNP

Bebhinn Ramsay, Friends of SKW

Eileen Kinch, Friends of SKW

Pilgrimpath.ie

Gratitude to all the many people who have been involved in the research, funding, access,

maintainance, organisation, and promotion of St Kevin’s Way, and to all the walkers who

made it worthwhile. Too many to mention but you know who you are…………….

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The End and the Beginning

‘We shall not cease from exploration. And the end of all our exploring will be to arrive where we started and know the place for the first time’ T.S. Eliot

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