Hawaii’S Mostpopulousisland, Surf, Sun, Andsurf, Shave Ice
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> ISLAND GUIDE / oahu navigator GET BA’S TAKE ON MORE OF OUR TOP FOOD CITIES AT BONAPPETIT .COM/TRAVEL surf, sun, and shave ice Oahu, Hawaii’s most populous island, offers more than beaches: It’s also home to a burgeoning food scene defined by local ingredients and traditional one-of-a-kind treats This is winter? It is if you’re hanging out on Oahu’s legendary North Shore. Reporting by Reid Nakasone, Dawn Perry, and Asiana Ponciano GUTTER PHOTOGRAPHS BY ERIN KUNKEL NAVIGATOR SAY HELLO LIKE A LOCAL > oahu The shaka is the high five of Hawaii. It can mean hello, good-bye, or thanks. But unless you’re a surfer or a native, use it sparingly (and keep it loose and casual). 2 POKE Get Defined A simple dish of Schooled raw fish, kukui on nut, and sea salt, often served Hawaiian over rice, it’s sold Classics everywhere from 3 liquor stores to There might be LOCO MOCO supermarkets. a farm-to-table Defined movement While it may be It’s rice, happening on the ubiquitous, poke a hamburger island, but c’mon, is only as good patty, an egg, h e m you shouldn’t miss as the quality of t u and gravy piled r s o i these standbys. fish used. c F high. It is DRINK Get It Here to Hawaii what HERE F Kahuku poutine is to o w r i e Superette, Canada: a gut- t h e v where the fish is busting, kitchen- always fresh. sink, beige- colored dish best enjoyed 1 late night or the SHAVE ICE morning after Defined a few too many. Get It Here From left: Shave ice at Shimazu Store Think of shave in Honolulu; Diamond Head rising over ice (never Anywhere and Waikiki Beach; Romy’s Kahuku Prawns shaved) as a 4 everywhere. & Shrimp shack on the North Shore. sno-cone that MUSUBI you’re allowed Defined to have past the The most famous age of six. Eat version of this it as you would Japanese-style ice cream at rice ball (a.k.a. the Dairy Queen: onigiri) is topped LA MARIANA SAILING CLUB standing in with Spam. Yes, on Ke’ehi Lagoon the parking lot. Spam. (Hawaii For a tiki bar time warp complete Customize consumes the with rum punches and coconut with abandon: most per capita shrimp, go on Thursday evenings flavored syrups, when legendary blind pianist Ron in the U.S.) Miyashiro takes the stage. condensed milk, Typically, the Taro fields at Kāko’o Known as “the You’ll find a core group of or adzuki beans. Spam is seared, SUNRISE POOL BAR ’Ōiwi farm in Kaneohe Gathering Place” young and creative chefs, Get It Here placed atop at The Modern dedicated farmers, and Waiola Store, rice, and Even locals venture into touristy among the islands, Oahu Lunch after Waikiki for the postcard-worthy wrapped in nori. boasts the best of what local artisans passionate a morning Shimazu views at this chic poolside bar. about preserving Hawaii’s on the North Store, or, for a Get It Here Despite its name, the bar is best Hawaii has to offer: pristine Shore means during sunset for happy hour. modern take, 7-Eleven or, for beaches, priceless views, very particular culture—and one thing: MW Restaurant. a major upgrade, and a mix of old- and pushing it to the next level. garlicky, buttery Mana Bu’s. new-school eats. Native That adage “the best food peel-and- Hawaiian, Asian, and good you’ll have in Hawaii is eat shrimp on the airplane” no longer served from ol’ American comfort food a number have come together to holds true. Oahu is the place of trucks. create unique, laid-back riffs to get your ono kine grindz Giovanni’s Introduced by Portuguese workers, (right), on island-style soul food. (“good eats,” in local speak) Mackey’s, and the malasada doughnut is a local on. So relax, come hungry, Romy’s are obsession. Kamehameha Bakery’s and lotion up. You’ve just our favorites. Grab extra landed in paradise. napkins. taro-root version is tops. Warning: They open at 2 a.m. and often sell out. > MAKE IT A COOKING VACATION HAWAII FISH CO. ONO POPS FRANKIE’S NURSERY HAWAII BEEKEEPERS’ HANALEI TARO & JUICE CO. ASSOCIATION Don’t neglect your rental’s kitchen—stock it with island staples Want to make tuna poke or Ideal for an après-beach snack, Oh, the exotic fruits you’ll see! Poi, a paste made from cooked by hitting these vendors at the stunning Kapiolani Community grill mahimahi steak? The these handmade paletas come Stock up on rambutans, matisia, Honeys offered vary, but the taro root, is eaten with College farmers’ market, open Tuesdays and Saturdays. sustainably sourced seafood at in flavors like Pickled Green and other produce you’re not cream-colored variety from kiawe almost anything. This farm is this vendor is the island’s best. Mango and Kalamansi Coriander. quite sure how to pronounce. mesquite trees is a standout. Hawaii’s best producer. JANUARY 2015 • BONAPPETIT.COM 45 NAVIGATOR CHANNEL YOUR INNER KELLY SLATER > oahu Everybody in Hawaii surfs. No, really—everyone. You should too. Steve at Sea & Board Sports Hawaii will have you fighting for waves in no time. Honolulu Hot List Hit the beach, get a spa treatment, go for a hike, but if you’re not visiting the capital for a meal or two, you’re not getting the most out of your vacation. TOWN MW RESTAURANT Dish: Gnocchi Dish: Mochi- with sunchokes, crusted opakapaka capers, and lemon Wade Ueoka and “Local first, organic Michelle Karr-Ueoka whenever possible, Opah fish belly with revitalize Hawaiian Meyer lemon and seaweed with aloha always” has cuisine with a fresh Koko Head Cafe salsa verde at Town been Town’s mantra take on traditional since opening in 2005. flavor combos. Chef Ed Kenney’s AG U unpretentious food Dish: Any ramen matches the casual With toppings from atmosphere. Parmesan to seasonal KAIMUKI tebichi (braised SUPERETTE pig’s feet), Agu spins Dish: He’e (octopus) roll the classic bowl of Japanese noodles. Sister restaurant to Town, this new kid on KOKO HEAD CAFE the block has become Dish: Koko Moco the neighborhood Chef Lee Anne Wong’s fave for fresh salads brunch-only spot and sandwiches updates comfort food using locally sourced dishes, including ingredients. rib-sticking loco moco using local grass- THE PIG & THE LADY fed beef, mushroom Dish: Pho French gravy, and tempura- dip banh mi fried kimchi. What was first a tasting-menu-only pop-up and then a popular farmers’ For addresses market stall is now a of the restaurants and other spots Going for a hike on Diamond Head? (Yes, you are.) brick-and-mortar. All in this story, hail the Le family’s take see Sourcebook Takeout from Kaimuki Superette is the pro move. on Vietnamese food. on page 102. MANOA ADOBOLOCO HAWAIIAN CHIP > SOUVENIRS CHOCOLATE HOT SAUCE COMPANY Try harder than These bean- The spicy, Light-as-air taro macadamia nuts at to-bar sweets smoky Hamajang chips come the airport. Show are from cacao version is made lightly salted or friends you care with grown locally with the oh-so- in bold flavors these omiyage (gifts). in Kailua. hot ghost pepper. like zesty garlic. Anatomy of and meat. Customization is key, and LIVE LIKE a Hawaiian at the best places, you can mix A LOCAL and match two or more entrées. At No matter what 5 Plate Lunch the legendary Rainbow Drive-In, the your preference— Ask any islander and she’ll happily “mix plate” includes a combination resort, condo, 1 reveal her ultimate Hawaiian plate of BBQ beef (3), boneless chicken or Airbnb—skip lunch. In the no-frills island classic, (4), and mahimahi (5). For added touristy Waikiki 4 and stay in the eaten day or night, you’ll find zero flavor, douse with chile pepper water mellow Kailua vegetables but always two scoops of or add a scoop of chili or gravy. or Haleiwa areas rice (1), macaroni salad or slaw (2), Then loosen your belt and dig in. of the island. 3 GUTTER WILSON JOE BY ILLUSTRATIONS 2.