> North Shore. North navigator hanging out is ifyou’re legendary on Oahu’s ISLAND GUIDE ISLAND winter? Itwinter? This is / oahu ingredients andtraditional one-of-a-kind treats offers more It’s thanbeaches: alsohometo a burgeoning food scenedefinedby local Oahu, ’s mostpopulousisland, surf, sun, andsurf, shave ice

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ERIN KUNKEL

.COM/TRAVEL MORE OF OUR BONAPPETIT TOP FOOD Dawn Perry, CITIES AT and Asiana Nakasone, GET GET Reporting TAKE ON Ponciano by Reid BA ’S ’S

GUTTER NAVIGATOR SAY HELLO LIKE A LOCAL > oahu The shaka is the high five of Hawaii. It can mean hello, good-bye, or thanks. But unless you’re a surfer or a native, use it sparingly (and keep it loose and casual).

2 POKE Get Defined A simple dish of Schooled raw fish, kukui on nut, and sea salt, often served Hawaiian over rice, it’s sold Classics everywhere from 3 liquor stores to There might be LOCO MOCO supermarkets. a farm-to-table Defined movement While it may be It’s rice, happening on the ubiquitous, poke a hamburger island, but c’mon, is only as good patty, an egg, h e m you shouldn’t miss as the quality of t u and gravy piled r s o i these standbys. fish used. c F high. It is DRINK Get It Here to Hawaii what HERE F Kahuku poutine is to o w r i e Superette, Canada: a gut- t h e v where the fish is busting, kitchen- always fresh. sink, beige- colored dish best enjoyed 1 late night or the SHAVE ICE morning after Defined a few too many. Get It Here From left: Shave ice at Shimazu Store Think of shave in Honolulu; Diamond Head rising over ice (never Anywhere and Waikiki Beach; Romy’s Kahuku Prawns shaved) as a 4 everywhere. & Shrimp shack on the North Shore. sno-cone that MUSUBI you’re allowed Defined to have past the The most famous age of six. Eat version of this it as you would Japanese-style at rice ball (a.k.a. the Dairy Queen: onigiri) is topped LA MARIANA SAILING CLUB standing in with Spam. Yes, on Ke’ehi Lagoon the parking lot. Spam. (Hawaii For a tiki bar time warp complete Customize consumes the with rum punches and with abandon: most per capita shrimp, go on Thursday evenings flavored syrups, when legendary blind pianist Ron in the U.S.) Miyashiro takes the stage. , Typically, the Taro fields at Kāko’o Known as “the You’ll find a core group of or adzuki beans. Spam is seared, SUNRISE POOL BAR ’Ōiwi farm in Kaneohe Gathering Place” young and creative chefs, Get It Here placed atop at The Modern dedicated farmers, and Waiola Store, rice, and Even locals venture into touristy among the islands, Oahu Lunch after Waikiki for the postcard-worthy wrapped in nori. boasts the best of what local artisans passionate a morning Shimazu views at this chic poolside bar. about preserving Hawaii’s on the North Store, or, for a Get It Here Despite its name, the bar is best Hawaii has to offer: pristine Shore means during sunset for happy hour. modern take, 7-Eleven or, for beaches, priceless views, very particular culture—and one thing: MW Restaurant. a major upgrade, and a mix of old- and pushing it to the next level. garlicky, buttery Mana Bu’s. new-school eats. Native That adage “the best food peel-and- Hawaiian, Asian, and good you’ll have in Hawaii is eat shrimp on the airplane” no longer served from ol’ American comfort food a number have come together to holds true. Oahu is the place of trucks. create unique, laid-back riffs to get your ono kine grindz Giovanni’s Introduced by Portuguese workers, (right), on island-style soul food. (“good eats,” in local speak) Mackey’s, and the malasada doughnut is a local on. So relax, come hungry, Romy’s are obsession. Kamehameha Bakery’s and lotion up. You’ve just our favorites. Grab extra landed in paradise. napkins. taro-root version is tops. Warning: They open at 2 a.m. and often sell out.

> MAKE IT A COOKING VACATION HAWAII FISH CO. ONO POPS FRANKIE’S NURSERY HAWAII BEEKEEPERS’ HANALEI TARO & JUICE CO. ASSOCIATION Don’t neglect your rental’s kitchen—stock it with island staples Want to make tuna poke or Ideal for an après-beach snack, Oh, the exotic you’ll see! Poi, a paste made from cooked by hitting these vendors at the stunning Kapiolani Community grill mahimahi steak? The these handmade paletas come Stock up on rambutans, matisia, Honeys offered vary, but the taro root, is eaten with College farmers’ market, open Tuesdays and Saturdays. sustainably sourced seafood at in flavors like Pickled Green and other produce you’re not cream-colored variety from kiawe almost anything. This farm is this vendor is the island’s best. and Kalamansi Coriander. quite sure how to pronounce. mesquite trees is a standout. Hawaii’s best producer.

JANUARY 2015 • BONAPPETIT.COM 45 NAVIGATOR Koko Cafe Head Takeout from Kaimuki Superette isthepro move. forGoing ahike (Yes, onDiamondHead? you are.) > oahu 4 these these friends you care with macadamia nutsat the airport. Showthe airport. Try harder than >

SOUVENIRS omiyage (gifts). 5 3 1

2 salsa verdeTown at Meyer lemonandseaweed Opah fishbellywith rice (1) vegetables butalways two scoopsof eaten day ornight,you’ll findzero lunch. Intheno-frillsislandclassic, reveal herultimate Hawaiian plate Ask any islanderandshe’ll happily Plate Lunch a Hawaiian Anatomy of , macaroni saladorslaw, (2) are from cacao to-bar sweets CHOCOLATE grown locally These bean- These in Kailua. MANOA

Then loosenyour beltanddigin. or addascoopofchiligravy. flavor, dousewithchilepepperwater (4) of BBQchicken beef(3),boneless “mix plate” acombination includes Rainbowthe legendary Drive-In , the and match two ormore entrées. At you places, at thebest canmix Customizationand meat. iskey, and . For, andmahimahi(5) added hot ghostpepper. smoky Hamajangsmoky version ismade You shouldtoo. Steve &Board atSea Sports with theoh-so- Everybody inHawaii surfs. No, really—everyone. CHANNEL YOUR INNER KELLY SLATER Hawaii ADOBOLOCO HOT SAUCE The spicy, will have you fightingfor waves innotime. atmosphere. matches thecasual unpretentious food Chef Ed Kenney’s since openingin2005. been Town’s mantra with alohaalways” has whenever possible, “Local first, organic capers, andlemon with Dish: Gnocchi getting themostoutofyour vacation. forthe capital ortwo, ameal you’re not go for ahike, butifyou’re notvisiting getaspatreatment,Hit thebeach, Honolulu Hot List on Vietnamese food. hail theLe family’s take brick-and-mortar. All market isnow stall a a popularfarmers’ pop-up andthen tasting-menu-only What was first a dip banhmi Dish: PhoFrench ingredients. using locallysourced and sandwiches fave for fresh salads the neighborhood the blockhasbecome Town, thisnew kidon Sister restaurant to (octopus) roll Dish: He’e SUPERETTE KAIMUKI TOWN & THE LADY THE PIG

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GUTTER ILLUSTRATIONS BY JOE WILSON