ISSUE NO. 327 Spring 2018 Edition: The Great Olive Oils of Tuscany PUBLISHED SINCE 1992 A Saving Grace The Cream of the 2017 Tuscan Olive Oil Harvest

or the second year in a row, the best Tuscan olive grow - high temperatures and no rain, an autumn cool snap Fers battled adversity, only to emerge the victors. In the endowed the surviving olives with classically expressive closing weeks, they were saved by a beneficent Mother aromas. And one benefit of a very hot mid-summer was Nature, who gave them a tiny crop of rich and aromatic oil. that it killed all the mosca (olive flies) that have plagued Production wasn’t just down. It was down a lot. Most Tuscany in recent years. estates only made 40 to 60 percent of their normal pro - So, after all the difficulties of the growing season, and duction, while some estates (like Cogno) made no oil at despite very limited quantities, we’re extremely happy all. The villain was the very hot, windy weather during with the 2017 oils we’ve chosen. We also expect them to flowering in May, with the wind blowing many of the contrast sharply with 2017 oils you’ll find from other buds and flowers to the ground. sources. (Less scrupulous growers than ours resorted to The summer was also dry, as it has been in recent buying oil from non-estate sources to supplement their years. Nonetheless, the old trees on the best estates meager production.) flourished. Their olives were unusually small (with a Once again, we can offer our own special selections high concentration of oil and very little water inside) from vaunted producers like Rufina’s Grati family, Valerie which led to highly concentrated oil. A handful of Ronconi at Melograno, Selvapiana, Pruneti, Castello di estates made some of their best oil in years. Volpaia and, of course, the great Giorgio Franci. Our line - The key to the year’s aromatic quality was cooler up is literally a “who’s who” of top Tuscan oil producers. weather arriving in September. After four months of Each oil was personally selected by us on the ground a www.rarewineco.com | [email protected] | 415-319-9000 — 1 — SCARCITY & SPLENDOR continued from page 1

Our Guarantee of Quality & Authenticity a in Tuscany in November. And in many cases our press - ings are available nowhere else in the world. They are as Every oil in this year’s offer has been vetted to represent good as 2017 Tuscan oil can possibly get. the best of the 2017 Tuscan harvest. We chose carefully, and And because we buy directly from the growers and in we chose well. large volumes, our prices are a fraction of what other sources Few other American oil merchants go to the expense of charge for often inferior oils. Every bottle is shipped in our being in Tuscany during the harvest. As a result, they sell own temperature-controlled container directly from Tuscany whatever blends the producers choose to give them. to our Bay Area temperature-controlled warehouse. We always urge caution if you choose to buy elsewhere. And it’s especially important in a year like this, with such a How we do it small crop and such challenging conditions. As we’ve done for more than two decades, in early Countless producers hit hard by the drought and the November we spent several 14-hour days in Tuscany tasting year’s poor flowering have had to buy oil from other produc - through scores of oils at numerous estates. This is a ritual ers —even from outside their region —so they can have we’ve been loyal to since 1995. It enables us to hand-select something to sell. Their oil may be decent, but it may not all the very best pressings, often from single olive groves. be theirs. Unless you know and trust your source, you should The oils we selected this year promise to be the most take claims of greatness with a healthy dose of skepticism. exciting available anywhere, and they have now arrived. It is Even in the most abundant of years very few oils that your best chance of the year to stock up on the world’s reach the US are in fact entirely estate-grown. Blending greatest—yet most fairly priced—olive oils. from multiple properties is common, as is the practice of buying outside oil to bolster stocks. But since 1995, The Salvation Rare Wine Co. has not only sold only 100% estate-grown By the end of August, things did not look good for the olive oils, but many of our oils are selected from individual groves. crop. Rain was needed, and so was some cool weather to assist Locking Up the Best in aromatic development. The needed rain thankfully came in September, and the cooler weather arrived in late October. We learned long ago that there’s no substitute for being there While there are some notable exceptions, most of the best oils and choosing our own oils before the producers make up their were pressed at the very end of October or in early November. blends. For those growers who were willing to wait, a small crop of Not only do we get the best; we avoid the homogenizing mostly green, concentrated and aromatic olives could be harvested effect of combining two months’ pressings. and pressed. Many growers who picked too early made oil that With good reason, wine and food writers have consistently was bitter and lacking classic Tuscan aromatic complexity. praised The Rare Wine Co.’s Tuscan oils as the best, and most One downside to the tiny crop was few growers had the lux - fairly-priced, available. And it will never be more true than in ury of harvesting by olive variety. Virtually all harvested by olive the coming months. grove, each containing trees of multiple varieties. Consquently sin - On the pages that follow, you will find our selections. Each gle-varietal oils are rare in 2017. The exceptions are Franci’s beauti - oil captures the beauty and nobility of Tuscany’s ancient olive ful Olivastra Seggianese; Melograno’s pure Frantoio; and Pruneti’s oil-making tradition. These are very exciting olive oils: buy them pair of brilliant mono-varietals from Frantoio and Moraiolo. with the knowledge that you are buying the year’s very best. www.rarewineco.com | [email protected] | 415-319-9000 — 2 — Summary of this Year’s Offers

12-bottle Explorer Case 6-bottle Explorer Case Twelve of our greatest oils. See pages 4, 5 & 6 for details. Sold Out $279.50 reg. $323.49 buy (Available only in The Mother Lode)

Franci Pruneti Il Poggione 3-Pack 2-Pack 3-Pack Villa Magra, Frantoio & Three one-liter bottles Villa Magra Grand Cru, Moraiolo See Page 10 for details. & Olivastra Seggianese See Page 8 See Page 7 for details. for details. $98.00 Sold Out buy (Available only in The Mother Lode) $49.95 reg. $54.90 buy

Melograno Carnasciale Vetrice 2-Pack See Page 9 for details. See Page 9 for details. Frantoio & Misto See Page 11 for details. $34.95 bt. $25.95 bt. $49.95 reg. $54.90 buy buy buy And for the Passionate Oil Lover ... The Mother Lode

One x 12-bt Explorer Case l Two x 6-bt Explorer Cases One x Franci 3-Pack l One x Pruneti 2-pack l One Il Poggione 3-Pack + 2 bonus bottles of Franci Grand Cru l A total of 34 bottles Mother Lode Price: $745.00 l Reg. Price: $951.00 www.rarewineco.com | [email protected] | 415-319-9000 — 3 — The Assortments Two 2017 Tuscan Oil Samplers for your Pantry s our regular olive oil buyers have learned, the best two, three, four or even five dozen bottles over the course of way to assure yourself of phenomenal olive oil twelve months. Athroughout the year is to stock up in the spring. You’ll As a basic purchase, we recommend the 12-bottle Tuscan want to buy enough to at least last you through 2018, mak - Explorer Case, which allows you to enjoy one of our unique ing sure that you have a few bottles to spare for gifts to friends. selections each month for the year. If you think your appetite Most customers can easily go through a case in a year, for great oil is less than that, you can go with the 6-bottle since that’s just one bottle a month. Others will go through case. Either case is as useful as it is exciting. Sampler No. 1: 12-bottle Sampler No. 2: 6-bottle Tuscan Explorer Case Tuscan Explorer Case Read about the individual oils on pages 5 & 6. 1. Selvapiana Vasca #2 1. Selvapiana Vasca #2 2. Vetrice Vasca #34 2. Vetrice Vasca #34 3. Colognole Montegiovi Vasca #31 3. Colognole Montegiovi Vasca #31 4. Il Giardino Vasca #2 4. Il Giardino Vasca #2 5. Frascole 5. Frascole 6. Castello di Volpaia 6. Castello di Volpaia 7. Melograno Frantoio 8. Melograno Misto Sold Out 9. Franci Villa Magra 10. Franci Olivastra Seggianese 11. Pruneti Moraiolo Vasca #49 Read about the oils 12. Pruneti Frantoio Vasca #15 in these sets on pages 5 & 6 $279.50 reg. $323.49 buy To place your order online, click here.

www.rarewineco.com | [email protected] | 415-319-9000 — 4 — The Oils What you’ll find in this year’s 12- bottle assortment

1. Selvapiana Vasca #2 4. Il Giardino Vasca #2 (Rufina) (Rufina) A quintessential extra virgin from this leg - Organic and unfiltered, a blend of Frantoio, endary Rufina producer. This is the estate’s Leccino and Moraiolo, all harvested in a single Vasca #2, harvested as cooler weather unfold - day: November 5th. In 2017, the olives were ed in early November. Luminous color. The tiny and production diminished due to the nose bursts with citrus pith, chive, asparagus drought. Young trees didn’t produce at all, due stem, wheatgrass and mint. Rich and intense to the bad weather during fruit set. And the palate, with flavors of artichoke and pepper, hot summer produced small olives on the with plenty of spice in the finish. Since we remaining old trees. The Nov. 5th oil we chose first imported Selvapiana oil in 1995, it has features a floral, grassy nose, with hints of euca - lyptus. The palate is smooth and creamy, with come to define the power of Ruffina oils. minty overtones. The finish of this highly The beautiful 2017 continues this tradition. promising young oil is quite spicy. 2. Vetrice Vasca #34 5. Frascole (Rufina) (Rufina) Another classic from the Grati family’s This is only the third year we’ve succeeded in famous south-facing oliveto. At about 300 getting oil from this small estate best known for meters above Rufina’s valley floor, the trees its fine Chianti Rufina. Our 2017 oil came are almost entirely Frantoio. We chose Vasca from trees on the stony hillside grove near the #34, which was harvested in late October winery. Harvested in a single day on October and early November. Jasmine and pomme 31st, it’s a blend of approximately 65% Frantoio, 20% Moraiolo, 10% Leccino and fruit on the nose, with hints of artichoke. 5% Pendolino. The nose is classic Rufina: arti - On the palate the primary flavors of green choke with some spearmint and citrus pith and bean and artichoke are balanced against hints wheatgrass. But in the mouth, it’s all about ele - of thyme. Finishes long, with moderate heat. gance, with all the components in place, and a long caressing finish. 3. Colognole Montegiovi 6. Castello di Volpaia Vasca #31 (Rufina) (Chianti Classico) The Colognole property benefits from its Each year, Volpaia holds aside for us tiny extraordinarily high mountain elevation, amounts of olive oil from their highest eleva - which keeps the trees cool even in a year like tion trees. This year we were blown away by 2017. Still production was down 30%. The the brilliant green color of this oil, which saving grace is this lovely oil, featuring com - resulted from some of the lowest yields this plex notes of menthol, cherry, oregano and estate has ever seen. Intriguing chlorophyll marjoram. The palate is rich and full, with a and floral notes on the nose. On the palate, long, spicy finish. this oil is equally green with nice salinity. The finish is long with a classic amaro tail. www.rarewineco.com | [email protected] | 415-319-9000 — 5 — The Oils ... in this year’s 12- bottle assortment (continued)

7. Melograno Frantoio 10. Franci (Mercatale Val di Pesa) Olivastra Seggianese Valeria Ronconi has become legendary for her (Montenero) work to virtually eliminate oxygen during pressing The rare Olivastra Seggianese variety thrived in and extraction—while retaining antioxidants and 2017. Grown at higher elevations, where it’s vitamins. And her skills always bring out the cooler, and the trees could benefit from scattered best in the noble Frantoio variety. This pure summer showers, the Olivastra trees were slight - Frantoio oil (harvested between November 2 ly behind other areas during flowering and fruit set, and so less affected by the wind. (Flowers and 9) has a bright green/gold color, and its aro - weren’t as open yet, so they weren’t fully blown mas are full of garden scents, including arti - off trees.) The high elevation also allowed the choke, arugula and asparagus. The palate is olives to be picked relatively early (October quite buttery, but with intense overtones of 14th), producing a green color and enormous mint and bitter greens. The finish is long and complexity of artichoke, scallion, peapods, moderately spicy. wheatgrass, rosemary and chive. Rich and pow - erful on the palate. 8. Melograno Misto 11. Pruneti Moraiolo (Mercatale Val di Pesa) Vasca #49 This is a complex blend of four olive varieties— Frantoio, Pendolino, Madonna and Leccino—all (Chianti Classico) harvested in a single day, on November 11 from For the second year in a row we snagged a pure a single olive grove. Delicate on the palate, the Moraiolo oil from Pruneti, one of the few flavors nonetheless are pungently rich and pep - growers who succeeded with this finicky variety pery, with classic flavors of freshly cut grass and in 2017. Despite the year's challenging condi - tions, this is a stunning oil, beautifully colored, artichokes, with good intensity and a long spicy with green wheatgrass and chlorophyll charac - finish. ter —reflecting a high phenolic content —with a subtle radish note. The palate is creamy and full, with a notable red fruit note on the mid- 9. Franci Villa Magra palate, and a moderately spicy finish. (Montenero) A selection of Franci’s best groves, harvested in 12. Pruneti Frantoio mid- to late-October. The oil itself is dominated by Frantoio, with Moraiolo and Leccino for Vasca #15 complexity. Villa Magra is always one of our (Chianti Classico) best oils, and the 2017 version is no exception. A beautiful late-harvest blend. This highly The nose is intense, with seductive notes of nuanced oil features notes of artichoke and spice, flowers, artichokes and white peach. On pepper against a backdrop of wheatgrass and the palate, there is great balance and presence, a spearmint. A quintessentially long and creamy classic artichoke mid-palate, explosive finish and Frantoio palate, with a long spicy finish. wonderful length.

www.rarewineco.com | [email protected] | 415-319-9000 — 6 — Frantoio Franci Montenero d’Orcio

f there’s a superstar in Tuscan oil, it is have come out of his state-of-the-art Alfa- IGiorgio Franci. From childhood, Giorgio Laval presses, but we also relish his take on was groomed to take over his father’s frantoio the year’s harvest, which is one of the region’s south of Montalcino. But unlike other young best-informed. Tuscans in a similar position, he gravitated to As Giorgio’s global following continues to the world of food and wine that existed out - grow, consider yourself fortunate to have side Tuscany. direct access to some of the finest olive oils He hung out with elite winemakers and on the planet. Our mixed 3-bottle set, dis - chefs and came to understand the concept of counted by 10% from the regular price, is an terroir. He learned that superior technique essential purchase. can make the difference between mediocre and transcendent, and he acquired the skill Franci to blend and taste like a great winemaker. 2017 Harvest Set Since his first harvest in 1995—coincidental - ly our first year importing Tuscan oil—he’s 1 500ml btl each of Villa Magra, become Italy’s most revered oil maker. Villa Magra Grand Cru Each year, we look forward to our visit & Olivastra Seggianese with Giorgio, not only to see what wonders Sold Out

2017 Villa Magra 2017 Villa Magra Grand Cru 2017 Olivastra Seggianese Villa Magra is Franci’s flagship oil, blended Villa Magra Grand Cru is arguably The rare Olivastra Seggianese variety from the best pressings of its best olive Tuscany’s most revered olive oil, and the thrived in 2017. Grown at higher ele - groves in the village of Montenero. best example of Giorgio Franci’s mastery vations, where it’s cooler and the trees When we visit, we taste all of the tanks of blending. And in most years, in major could benefit from scattered summer selected to go into Villa Magra, and on that oil competitions in Italy and abroad, it is showers, the Olivastra trees were basis we can anticipate what the final blend judged the year’s finest olio. slightly behind other areas during will be like. (It’s a lot like barrel tasing in a Villa Magra Grand Cru is the last oil flowering and fruit set, and so less winery; the more barrels you taste, the bet - that Giorgio blends. In the weeks follow - affected by the wind. (Flowers weren’t ter the idea you have of the final blend.) ing the harvest, he watches about a dozen as open yet, so they weren’t fully The 2017 Villa Magra is the essence of a tanks that he believes have the potential to blown off trees.) The high elevation great early-harvest Tuscan oil, picked and be part of the year’s Grand Cru blend. also allowed the olives to be picked rel - pressed between October 10 and 30. This year’s final blend is an oil worthy Mainly Frantoio, with smaller amounts of atively early (October 14th), producing Moraiolo and Leccino, it is one of the year’s of Villa Magra Grand Cru. It bears a green color and enormous complexi - finest olive oils. Franci’s hallmark refinement and balance. ty of artichoke, scallion, peapods, It boasts great balance and presence, With classic scents of artichoke and men - wheatgrass, rosemary and chive. Rich with an attractive—and eminently thol, the nose leads to a creamy, concen - and powerful on the palate. “Tuscan”—palate of bitter artichoke trated palate and a long, slightly peppery and a long, explosive finish. finish. One of the greats. www.rarewineco.com | [email protected] | 415-319-9000 — 7 — Pruneti Rare Mono -V arietal Oils from a Tuscan Giant

n Tuscany, few growers have their es to the French perfume industry for more Iown press house (known locally as a than a century. frantoio ) to extract the oil from their But what really inspires these brothers is olives. Instead, each day, they take their their prized olive groves and their state-of-the- olives to a nearby frantoio for pressing art frantoio in San Polo in Chianti. and bottling. Among the most sophisticated in Italy, Almost every village has a frantoio or Pruneti’s frantoio gives the brothers total con - two. So, for average growers, there’s no trol over the temperature and milling of their need to drive long distances. But frantoios vary dramatically in the olives—as well as those of the dozens of local growers they serve. quality of their work. And a few tower above the rest. While Paolo and Gionni operate one of Tuscany’s most One of the region’s best frantoios is, of course, operated by revered frantoios, our attraction was their own oils, all from their Giorgio Franci, not far from Montalcino in Southern Tuscany. own trees. And the greatest prizes are their mono-cultivar oils But for growers farther north, in Chianti Classico, the elite fran - from organically farmed olives. toio is that of Pruneti. And like Franci, Pruneti not only presses These oils are simply extraordinary, a consequence of their olives for dozens of small growers; they also produce some of very old trees, planted amidst their irises at high elevations. But Tuscany’s finest estate-grown oils from their own groves. perhaps even more important is the brothers’ careful attention to harvesting at the onset of ripening, to maintain vibrancy in the The Cogno Connection bouquet and freshness on the palate. While Franci was an early discovery for us, we didn’t know We selected our 2017 Pruneti offerings from a number of lots. about Pruneti until five years ago, when we were tipped off to The splendid pure Moraiolo is from Vasca #49, while the pure their existence by Marco Matteini of Cogno. Frantoio came from Vasca #15. Ever the perfectionist, Marco wasn’t satisfied with any of the frantoios near him in Castellina in Chianti, and so he switched to 2017 Pruneti Pruneti, despite the fact that it was a three-hour round trip with Mono-Cultivars his truck. The excellence of their work made it worth the extra 1 btl each of Moraiolo Vasca #49 time and expense. And so the very next harvest, we went to see Paolo and Gionni & Frantoio Vasca #15 Pruneti, scions of a Chianti Classico family that has supplied iris - $49.95 2-pack buy

2017 Pruneti Moraiolo 500ml 2 0 1 7 P r uneti Frantoio 500ml Despite the year's challenging conditions, this “Frantoio” is not just Italian for a place where is a stunning oil, beautifully colored, with green olives are pressed. It’s also the name of the wheatgrass and chlorophyll character —reflect - region’s most iconic olive variety, known for its ing a high phenolic content —with a subtle finesse and perfume. Pruneti’s 2017 Frantoio is radish note. The palate is creamy and full, with classic, with artichoke and pepper dominating, a notable red fruit note on the mid-palate, and against a highly nuanced backdrop of wheat - a moderately spicy finish. grass and spearmint. Creamy on the palate with a long spicy finish.

Orders received by noon PST on Friday 3/23 will ship the week of 3/26. www.rarewineco.com | [email protected] | 415-319-9000 — 8 — Two Great Oils Available Individually Carnasciale Bettina Rogosky’s Il Carnasciale estate produces Il Il Carnasciale Caberlot, the legendary Super Tuscan. But this $34.95 500ml buy high-altitude site also produces some of Tuscany’s One of the most elegant of Tuscan olive oils. most beautiful olive oils. In fact, before the The overall impression is luxurious. Scents of Caberlot vines were planted in 1986, the site was dandelion, alfalfa, chive and peppercorns domi - planted only to olive trees—mostly dating from nate, with a hint of lemon. On the palate a sub - the 1860s and of the Frantoio variety. tle, but cool, mintiness adds to the oil’s com - Today, just 500 ancient trees remain, produc - plexity. The texture is smooth and the finish is ing this iconic oil in its striking ceramic bottle. long. No oil has a more devoted following among our clients. Get it while you can! Vetrice The Grati Family are the quintessential Tuscan olive Vetrice Vasca #34 growers. They produce wine—in fact, excellent wine— $25.95 500ml buy from their Rufina vineyards. But for us, their calling cards are their amazing olive Another classic from the Grati family’s famous oils, from three different olive groves (oliveti): Vetrice, south-facing oliveto. At about 300 meters Monte and Prunatelli. above Rufina’s valley floor, the trees are almost Each site commands a high position overlooking entirely Frantoio. We chose Vasca #34, which the Rufina valley. The high elevation not only means was harvested in late October and early cooler temperatures, it means that the trees survived the November. Jasmine and pomme fruit on the 1985 freeze. So the trees are quite old. nose, with hints of artichoke. On the palate the Vetrice is the family’s most famous oliveto and the primary flavors of green bean and artichoke are one that, in our opinion produced the greatest 2017 balanced against hints of thyme. Finishes long, oil, particularly that from Vasca 34. Here it is. with moderate heat.

www.rarewineco.com | [email protected] | 415-319-9000 — 9 — The Il Poggione 3-Pack

mong all of our oil estates, our history bright with a bouquet of freshly cut grass, and Awith Il Poggione is the longest, dating showing nice salinity and balance. back 30 years, to 1988. And since 1995, Il Il Poggione’s extra virgin oils have always Poggione’s fabulous olive oil has been a staple been a bargain in their one-liter bottle, and of our annual offerings, offering a price-quality that continues to be the case. Stock up! rapport that is nearly unparalleled. Over the winter of 2016, the estate per - formed a strict tree pruning, to get more of 2017 Il Poggione Vasca #8 their very old trees into a classic “vaso”shape, $98.00 3-pack for better air circulation and more even ripen - ing. 3 one-liter bottles buy The pruning was well-timed to help the Il Poggione’s dedication to quality shows up estate survive 2017’s weather, which was chal - in every oil they release, but we enjoy the spe - lenging from spring until September. The hot cial privilege each year of choosing the press - spring winds and weather caused problems ing we believe best expresses their oil-making during flowering and fruit set, which were only tradition. This year’s selection is very green in amplified by the summer drought. character, high-toned yet rich, fresh and But all of these problems didn’t prevent Il vibrant, very well balanced with modest spici - Poggione from producing a splendid oil from a ness. An extraordinary value in estate-grown single oliveto at an elevation of 200 meters. The extra virgin olive oil. oil we chose from vasca #8 was green and

All olive oil orders will ship separately from wine orders. All orders received by noon PST, Friday March 23rd will ship the week of March 26th. Orders received after Friday will ship within two business days of receipt.

www.rarewineco.com | [email protected] | 415-319-9000 — 10 — Melograno Mercatale Val di Pesa

ike Giorgio Franci and the Pruneti broth - between November 2 and 9. Normally, Lers, Valeria Ronconi is revered by olive oil Signora Ronconi harvests her Frantoio olives aficionados. Her efforts to perfect olive oil earlier; but in 2017 she felt that October was extraction technology have won her nearly as too warm in her olive groves for the olives to much admiration as have the quality of her reach their full aromatic potential. Finally, Melograno oils. November brought her the cold wave she A grower for more than 30 years, Signora wanted, and this beautiful pure Frantoio is a Ronconi has worked closely with agronomists reflection of her patience and wisdom. to develop a new system of extraction to The second “Misto” oil is a complex blend retain structure, antioxidants and vitamins, of four olive varieties—Frantoio, Pendolino, while virtually eliminating oxygen during Madonna and Leccino—all harvested in a sin - pressing and extraction. gle day, on November 11. Signora Ronconi’s We’ve been working with Signora skill as a blender is evident in the oils’balance Ronconi since 2003. With few exceptions, and multifaceted aromatics. each of her oils reveals remarkable purity, These two Melograno oils are available varietal clarity and balance. But like any olive only as a 2-bottle set, discounted by 15% grower, she is subject to the whims of Mother from the single-bottle price. The sets are very Nature which, for the second time in three limited in availability. years have devastated her crop. As in 2014, when she had no oil at all to sell, in 2017 her Melograno production was a tiny fraction of usual levels. 2017 Harvest Set Fortunately, she was able to eek out enough production for two signature bot - 1 btl each of Frantoio & Misto tlings dedicated to The Rare Wine Co. 2-pack buy The first is pure Frantoio harvested $49.95

2017 Melograno Frantoio 2017 Melograno Misto Signora Ronconi’s skills always bring out the best in Signora Ronconi made only 45 liters of this superb the noble Frantoio variety. The oil’s color is bright oil! It was harvested by hand under clear skies on green/gold, and its aromas are full of garden scents, November 11th, and represents a single grove, not a including artichoke, arugula and asparagus. The palate single variety. Delicate on the palate, the flavors is quite buttery, but with intense overtones of mint nonetheless are pungently rich and peppery, with clas - and bitter greens. The finish is long and moderately sic flavors of freshly cut grass and artichokes, with spicy. good intensity and a long spicy finish.

www.rarewineco.com | [email protected] | 415-319-9000 — 11 — The Differences Between Good & Great Just as subtle differences in grape source and vinification can profoundly influence the quality of a wine, there are factors that separate great olive oils from merely good ones. Here are the most important of them.

Microclimates: Olive oil is produced Speed of Pressing: It is crucial that the throughout the Mediterranean, but many feel “Surely the best fruit arrive at the frantoio (the press house) that the greatest oils of all are produced in American source for speedily and unbruised. Otherwise, the Tuscany’s interior hills—from old trees in fine Tuscan olive oil.” olives will oxidize and develop a high level of poor soil and cool microclimates. oleic acid. While coastal Tuscany produces some of Ed Behr, The Art of Eating, The International Olive Oil Council the region’s greatest wines, we believe that on The Rare Wine Co . (IOOC) has adopted oleic acid as a standard interior olive groves typically produce better measure of quality; a high percentage indi - oil. So, long ago we restricted our search for great oils to areas cates overripeness, damage or that olives have sat around too well away from the sea. long before pressing. The IOOC permits the “Extra Virgin” Ripeness: The time of harvest is crucial, with the best label only if an oil has less than one gram of free acidity, Tuscan oils made from olives that are harvested in October or expressed as oleic acid, per 100 grams of oil (one percent). early November, while many are still green. Olives at this In fact, top Tuscan oils have a fraction of the permitted stage of ripeness produce an oil with a green color and intense level of oleic acid. This is due to their early harvest and the flavors of artichoke and freshly cut grass. great care that goes into making them. These “early-harvest” oils also have extraordinary struc - Method of Extraction: Olive pressing basics have ture—plus the ability to withstand the four enemies of olive changed little in recent years: the entire olive (skin, pulp and oil: age, heat, light and air. In fact, a good early-harvest oil, if pit) is crushed, ground and worked into a paste. The oil is properly stored, can easily keep for two years, and often even extracted from this paste, exposing it to as little heat and longer. In contrast, most commercially available olive oils oxygen as possible. But while the essentials haven’t changed (including many expensive ones) already show noticeable much, many improvements have been made to the process - deterioration six months after the harvest. ing equipment, to obtain purer, cleaner oil, with a high level The explanation is that early-harvest olives have substan - of polyphenols and a minimum of oxidation. tially more antioxidants. Consequently, Tuscan olive oils that Age: Top Tuscan oils have a window of optimum usabili - have a greenish color hold up much better after opening, ty that is greater than for other oils—and they can often age maintaining their fresh aromas and flavors. for several years when well stored. In estimating ageability, So, why not harvest all the olives early and produce only look to variables such as pepperiness, green color and depth great oil? The answer is “time and money.” Most growers pre - of flavor in the young oil. Generally, the more intense these fer to wait until the olives offer little resistance and can either characteristics, the better the prospects for extended aging. be swept from the trees or fall to the ground on their own. Keeping Oil Fresh: Great Tuscan oils withstand heat Early picking also produces much less oil from the same and light better than other oils, but they still deteriorate if weight of olives. Our growers often obtain only one to two abused. Unopened bottles should be stored in a cool, dark liters of olive oil per tree; the big commercial olive oil produc - place like a wine cellar. Once opened, they are best kept in a ers, who harvest later, can produce many times that amount cool, dark cupboard away from the stove. Following these from a single tree. rules, your oils will remain fresh and vibrant. www.rarewineco.com | [email protected] | 415-319-9000 — 12 — Tuscan Olive Oil & Food

ne of the many popular misconcep - Even applying Tuscan oil to cold foods can Otions about olive oil is that it is best be a sybaritic experience. Take something as used for frying and salad dressings. True, simple as fresh mozzarella bathed in a rich the destiny of cheap oils may be to fry with, Tuscan oil, seasoned just with salt and freshly and the métier of light oils is to dress a ground pepper. Add some crusty bread to sop up salad. But a rich, aromatic top-rank Tuscan the cheese-infused oil and ... Mamma mia! oil has a higher calling. The Tuscans understand intuitively how to Great Tuscan olive oils come into their own when drizzled use their oils, and many of their methods are amazingly simple. over foods, especially if the foods are warm. While fine Tuscan For example, they drizzle their olio over grilled fish or meat; oils are wonderful for frying or sautéing, pouring a great oil gently-cooked white beans or chick peas; raw vegetables like over something warm magnifies its aromas, unleashing all of its sliced fennel or baby artichokes; steamed asparagus; bruschetta power. Perhaps the most classic use for extra virgin olive oil is of fresh tomato, basil and minced garlic; fava beans with pecori - fettunta —grilled bread, drizzled with oil and served warm. no cheese; and any hearty, thick soup. (Before drizzling the oil, it is common to rub the bread with a For more uses of Tuscan extra virgin oil, consult any good garlic clove; the bread’s warmth melts the garlic.) Tuscan or Italian cookbook.

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“A top source of extremely fine Tuscan A Labor of Love olive oils.” Matt Kramer on The Rare Wine Co.

ur awakening to the glories of great tree in the hills near Florence—harvested production. OTuscan oil came in the mid-1980’s, in November—may yield only a liter of We took matters into our own hands. when we had dinner one April night at the olive oil. Compare this to the commer - Beginning in 1995, we began importing venerable Montalcino estate, Il Poggione. cially farmed trees along Tuscany’s our own selections. Each November, we They were rightly proud of their extra coast—harvested much later—which taste on site, before the oils are blend - virgin olive oil, encouraging us to pour it produce 20+ liters of oil per tree. ed—selecting pressings that offer the on every dish short of dessert. It was After our experience at Il Poggione, most character, structure and balance. exhilarating. We dipped and drizzled we were shocked to discover just how We also have the trade’s strictest stan - with abandon: over the thick Tuscan difficult it was to find comparable oils in dards: offering only ruthlessly selected soup, on fennel bulbs, over the grilled the United States. Even the expensive single-estate oils, providing clear and meat, and on thick slices of toasted oils available here didn’t come close to informative labels, shipping under strict bread. matching Il Poggione’s. In fact, most of temperature control, and offering the We didn’t realize at the time that we the oils we found were tired, the result of new oils as soon as they are pressed and were enjoying a precious commodity, as being too old or improperly stored. We bottled. great Tuscan oil can only be made from were also frustrated by the fact that few If we’ve become America’s best source for tiny yields, and by harvesting early. A labels revealed the olive source or year of Tuscan olive oil, these are the reasons why .

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