BREAST CANCER Accounts for 14% of All Cancer Cases 1 in 8 CHANCE Screenings Reduce Risk of DIAGNOSIS by 15%-20% 40K Deaths in Years
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accounts for 14% of all cancer cases w BREAST CANCER accounts for 14% of all cancer cases 1 IN 8 CHANCE screenings reduce risk OF DIAGNOSIS by 15%-20% 40k deaths in years 10 2014 % 2nd most common cancer among women median age of diagnosis is 61 83 survival after FOOTWEAR NEWS | OCTOBER 6, 2014 |VOL. 70 232,670 new 232,670 in cases 2014 $44 9 medical 78% survival after 15 years 2.9beneficiaries million million donated by FFANY Shoes on Sale MAPPING EUROPE BREAST What wowed buyers? Plus the CANCER cases people who partied in Paris survivors in U.S. 1990 to 2010 1990 to mammograms of all cancer recommended MIDTERM EXAM after How next month’s elections 14% for accounts could impact footwear 40 78% survival death rate death from 34% fell 430 DE ATHS MEN WILL BE after 15 years accountsfor 14% for higheest Incidence of all TOP 20 cancer cases screenings reduce risk by 15%-20% RUNWAY HITS 40,000 deaths in 2014 2nd cancer most common THE BEST SHOES FROM THE SHOWS 89% 83% SURVIVAL AFTER 10 YEARS median age of diagnosis is 61 survival $44 million donated by 5 years after in new cases FFANY diagnosis deaths Shoes on Sale 40,000 in 2014 40,000 40,000 after 10 years 10 after survival 83 2,360 men will be for 2014 % % deaths in 2014 deaths 9 68 78 % medical 2nd most beneficiaries RACE affects death rate WHY IT survival after 15 screenings common The stats are staggering. The personal reduce 1 in 8 1 in impact hits close to home. That’s yearswhy risk by cancer the industry is gearing up for another 15 chance %- fight against breast cancer at QVC 2.9 deaths deaths in 2014 20 Presents “FFANY Shoes on Sale.” million breast cancer COUNTS diagnosis of 40,000 % survivors in U.S. survivors 1 in 8 chance of diagnosis 1 in 8 chance median age at death is at death median age FN1006P01.indd 1 10/2/14 5:45 PM CONTENTS Sacai INSIDER 7 Up Front The retail mood is upbeat for spring ’15 thanks to a plethora of hot trends and more-wearable styles. 10 FN Spy Pierre Hardy reminisces about major moments during the past 15 years ... Paul Andrew on marathons, mentors. Bergdorf Goodman, one of the honorees at 12 Top Stories FFANY Shoes on Sale Claudia Ciuti is branching out for spring with the addition of two new TAILER collections. Y OF RE 14 Top Stories S TE UR As Washington, D.C., preps for the CO midterm elections, industry insiders weigh in on the burning issues. GDORF: FEATURES 18 Paris Top 20 ANNI GIANNONI; BER Which styles were the winners of the V Paris runways? FN ranks them. PHOTOS: SACAI: GIO SACAI: PHOTOS: 2 | | OCTOBER 6, 2014 FN1006P02,04.indd 2 10/2/14 6:02 PM 10022014180356 CONGR ATUL ATES JOE MOORE & FELLOW HONOREES AT THE 21S T A N N UA L “FFANY SHOES ON SALE” CONTENTS Miu Miu 20 Message Alert 32 Retailer of the Year 40 Humanitarian Award More highlights among the key footwear looks What it took to land Bergdorf Goodman the Recipient Joe Moore reminisces about some unveiled in Paris. title from FFANY. powerful people he’s worked with in battling breast cancer. 22 Occupy Runway 34 Design for Change Take a peek at the women’s rights protest Footwear bigwigs highlight their top picks for 41 Buzz Karl Lagerfeld staged at the Chanel show. Shoes on Sale styles. How footwear companies are taking action to find a cure. 36 Designer of the Year MARKETPLACE Gianvito Rossi talks about his guiding principles, I 28 Power in Numbers shoe spotting and how fashion runs in the family. N FN PICK O 42 Girl Talk NN The battle against breast cancer, as waged by IA G QVC Presents “FFANY Shoes on Sale” and the 39 The Spokeswoman Actress Rosamund Pike made the media rounds I NN A footwear industry. Ivanka Trump shares her motivations for to promote her film “Gone Girl.” V IO supporting charitable causes. PHOTO: G PHOTO: 4 | | OCTOBER 6, 2014 FN1006P02,04.indd 4 10/2/14 6:02 PM 10022014180421 BROWN SHOE COMPANY PROUD SPONSOR OF QVC FFANY SHOES ON SALE #SHOES4ACURE CONGRATULATIONS JOE MOORE ON YOUR JODI FISHER HUMANITARIAN AWARD INSIDERUP FRONT × NEWSMAKERS × ON DEADLINE The Hot List As luxury footwear continues to fuel retail, top buyers sound off on the major hits from Europe. BY KATIE ABEL ow will the luxury footwear centered around the collections from major market fare in spring ’15? fashion houses — from Céline and Prada to As buyers finally reached Dries Van Noten and Saint Laurent — buyers the finish line of a marathon also praised footwear designers’ oerings. fashion season in Paris last For many retailers, the industry’s rising Hweek, most said they were upbeat about the stars are becoming more and more impor- diversity in the market, which should trans- tant. “We saw a lot of our emerging design- late into another winning year. ers become staples,” said Alberto Oliveros, “We’re very optimistic. Footwear is outpac- head of buying for Level Shoe District in ing the growth in almost all other [segments] Dubai. “Paul Andrew, Sophia Webster and in fashion, and this is expected to continue,” Aquazzura have made strong names for said Erin Cerrato, divisional VP of accessories themselves in the past few seasons and are at Holt Renfrew. paving the way for new talent to While much of the excitement this season come onto the scene.” Dries Van Noten E wowed with a unique UGER spring ’15 runway show E F E AN PH E T PHOTO: S PHOTO: OCTOBER 6, 2014 | | 7 FN1006P07,08.indd 7 10/2/14 6:47 PM 10022014184821 INSIDER UP FRONT × Europe Report Inside Nicholas have a bit more fizz.” launching Kenzo footwear for spring ’15.” Kirkwood’s Paris Jerey Kalinsky, founder, Alberto Oliveros, head of buying, Level Shoe showroom Jerey New York District Hit Collections: “I loved Hit Collections: “Rupert Sanderson really the runway boot at Givenchy. caught my eye. This season, the collection was I thought the Balenciaga more playful and fun. His pointy ballerinas with shoes, as a collection, looked lips are definitely one of this season’s must-haves. great. I loved the Dries Van Nicholas Kirkwood’s Origami collection was col- Noten runway shoe, and orful, vibrant and very unique. His statement san- Lanvin as well.” dal with the mix of materials, colors and incred- ible technique is so far one of my personal favorite Suzanne Timmins, SVP & shoes of the season. Edgardo Osorio proved again fashion director, Hudson’s his extraordinary talent, creating another femi- Bay and Lord & Taylor nine, sexy and wearable collection for Aquazzura. Hit Collections: “Céline’s Azzedine Alaïa’s collection once again proved that soft and supple slipper Mr. Alaïa’s technique and attention to details is shoes because comfy is still a reference for skillful craftsmanship .” Read on to find out what will rule the high-end cool. Tabitha Simmons denim espadrilles are Trend Report: “Espadrilles and sneakers have selling floors come spring. the perfect summer footwear for all those little become more than a trend: They have become a shift dresses. Burberry’s multicolor sneakers and core category that footwear brands are focusing Scott Meden, EVP & GMM of shoes, Nordstrom slides because rainbow colors make us happy. Paul on and developing. Espadrilles have become a Hit Collections: “While we’re still in market Andrew’s high-heeled gladiators are absolutely must-have in any women’s wardrobe, and it can working, we were excited by the runway [styles] perfect, and we all know this is a style that can go be worn in a formal and casual way; we saw great from Gucci, Fendi, Prada, Givenchy, Chanel and so wrong. Nicholas Kirkwood’s tricked-out sport examples in Loewe, Céline, Chanel, Valentino and Valentino. We feel it’s been a strong season and sandals for Peter Pilotto and Roksanda Ilincic will many more. One of the biggest trends this season have been pleased with the direction of footwear definitely be must-haves.” are flats.” on the runways as well as with the commercial Trend Report: “There is a trend toward what I Names on the Rise: “We are excited to add oer in the showrooms.” call ‘happy feet,’ not only with regards to color, Francesco Russo to our women’s designer as- Trend Report: “The lace-up gladiator, the but in comfort as well. Flat soles and low block sortment, as his extraordinary technique and continuation of a flat footbed sandal and 1970s heels lead the way. Even with regards to higher mastering bring a unique and artisanal collection influence.” heels, the platforms and wedges [we see] are much to life. Daniel Lawler’s collection at Oscar de la Overall Outlook: “We were inspired and excited, easier on the foot than stilettos. Sport catego- Renta really caught my eye as well. Alessandro and we feel this will translate well onto the selling ries continue to grow and sneakers are moving Dell’Acqua’s No. 21 line was perfect for our mar- floor and online.” forward, while all those tricked-out Teva-like ket, as his statement runway satin sandal heels slides and slab soles will be a new category. Luxe and flats with embellishments will catch the eyes Rebecca Farrar-Hockley, buying & creative espadrilles look new.” of our international director, Kurt Geiger A spring flat from clientele. Joseph Paul Andrew Trend Report: “Trends we have seen before con- Erin Cerrato, divisional VP of accessories, Altuzarra’s first in- tinue to be important, with no shortage of skaters Holt Renfrew house shoe collec- and sneakers in the big collections.