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With the Chinks

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With the Chinks WITH THE CHINKS DARYl KLPIN ilttiaca, ^tm ^aik CHARLES WILLIAM WASON COLLECTION CHINA AND THE CHINESE THE GIFT OF CHARLES WILLIAM WASON CLASS OF 1876 1918 The original of tliis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924022973196 THREE MEN Ol" CHINA Cornell University Library D 549.CSK64 With the Chinlcs, On Active Service Series 3 1924 022 973 196 WITH THE CHINKS WITH THE CHINKS BY DARYL KLEIN, 2nd LIEUTENANT IN THE CHINESE LABOUR CORPS WITH ILLUSTRATIONS fig fig ffi ffi LONDON: JOHN LANE THE BODLEY HEAD NEW YORK : JOHN LANE COMPANY MCMXIX VNl.O^bl WILLIAM BRBHDON AND SON, LTD., PRINTERS, PLYMOUTH, ENGLAND TO ALL IMPERIAL OFFICERS WHO RECRUITED THE CHINESE WHO HELPED TO BRING THEM OVER AND WHO WORKED WITH THEM IN FRANCE FOREWORD I FEEL that a word of apology is due to the reader for the disjointed character of this Httle book. When in China I joined the Chinese Labour Corps I kept a diary at first, recording fairly fully my impressions of the work from day to day. These impressions covered what progress we made in training the coolies ; also I endeavoured to record the coolies' point of view, what they thought of us, their new masters, and of this their new life in the C.L.C. To begin with I had no story to tell, but once away from camp in China, embarked on what I am calling the Interminable Journey, the germ of narrative crept into my diary and I found myself spinning something of a yarn—the yarn, in fact, of our voyage from China to France. The diary, which is printed practically as I wrote it, covers the training period in China (two months) and crossing the Pacific. The narrative begins with our long stay in viii WITH THE CHINKS Canada (ten weeks), and grows with the un- expected passage of the Panama Canal, a few delightful days in Kingston, Jamaica, a few delightful hours in New York, and so onward across the now haunted Atlantic to France. This long journey gave me many an opportunity to observe the mental shock and change which a coohe suffers as he leaves the placid East and is shown the brilliant wonders of the West. He does not appear to be greatly interested in anything; he seldom gives way to an expression of sur- prise, but, like a child, he is taking it in all the time, he is changing under the influence of a new vision, and there is not a coolie in France to-day who, when the war is over, will not go back to his country a better man for his exploits abroad, a progressive spirit, and the possessor of clean habits. That is not to say that he left China a barbarian. If this little work in the least modifies the popular conception of the " " Chinese coohe it will have done much. As children we were taught to believe that both Cain and coolies were murderers from the beginning ; no coohe was to be trusted ; he was a yellow dog ; he would stick a knife ; FOREWORD ix into you in a dark alley on a dark night. He was treacherous. To-day we have outgrown this puerihty, but still retain a deep distrust of the coolie and his ways. Nothing could be more unfair. The coolie whom we trained and brought to France is a simple, jolly fellow. He is content with the very sim- plicities of Hfe ; he steals, but not overmuch he is to be trusted. He is extraordinarily happy ; he grins and grins ; he is good to his fellow-creature. In the following pages I have often compared him to a child because of his simplicity, his playfulness, his frank delight with life, his quaintness and his affec- tionate character, B.E.F., France, July, 19 1 8. ILLUSTRATIONS Three Men of China .... Prontupiece Toface page "Queue after queue fell without a murmur FROM THE victims" .... 8 "They gathered in knots and guessed at the LIFE to come" .... 8 Embarkation day at Tsingtau io6 A port of call on the interminable journey 132 " Intoxicated by the morning they swung along THE Canadian road" 132 Pitching camp in Canada 166 The pride of clean tent lines 166 "Leisure drives the coolie artist mind to action" ..... 188 "Onward to Panama" .... 214 "Followed a couple of days and nights at Colon" ..... 214 Theatricals in Canada 252 PART I WITH THE CHINKS JANUARY One day in late December I arrived at Tsing- tau just after noon. Three hours we took to get alongside, the steamer crunching her way through floes of ice. The thermometer down to zero. A coastline jagged and brilliant as a bit of crystal. A perishingly cold drive to the Grand Hotel, where I fell in with our commandant, Vessy, a little man of decisive speech, who, having intro- duced me to his family, asked me if I would like to go out to the Coolie Camp at Tsang- kou (about ten miles from Tsingtau) that afternoon, or spend a day in town and start work on Monday. Wishing to get into harness as soon as might be, I said I would go out with him. He gave me a lift in one of the camp cars, which after speeding through 2 WITH THE CHINKS hilly country for about twenty minutes, brought us in sight of a tall yellow chimney. "Down that chimney," said Vessy, "is the camp." " A peculiar place for a camp," I reflected, " but if it means our quarters are in a furnace and the furnace is aUght it will be very wel- come." For I was thinking of the intense cold and of the wind that never relaxed its pressure. A few minutes later I understood what he meant. The silk-filature factory which is now transformed into the Coolie Labour Corps' Training Station is built in a little valley, not much of a valley to be sure, and affording scant protection from the insistent merciless breeze. However, down it was in a sense. A Chinese sentry saluted, smartly enough, as we passed into an enclosure of considerable size. On one side a row of low white stone houses, partly given over to the coolies' quarters, partly to the Sausage Machine of which I shall have more to say later on. A guard-room at one end of this row of houses and at the other G.H.Q. Immediately before one a gravelled space now known as the JANUARY 3 Parade Ground, enclosed with barbed wire. " For all the world like a prison camp," I thought. And within were the " prisoners," marching in columns, at least five hundred of them, uniformly clothed in tanned leather- coloured coats, with dark brown caps on their heads. At second glance I thought of them as so many convicts. Some walked with a convict's slouch, others carried them- selves like men on H.M. service ; all kept tolerably together, changing direction now and again, and going through the elementary movements associated with company drill without arms. And in a little while the wind carried to me the sounds of certain words of command, given with great precision, and I made out a European standing in their midst, waving his arms about and brandishing a cane. " One of my colleagues," I ventured to Vessy. "A Russian officer," he answered, "who has given up his title in the Russian Army to go home with the coolies. Because he can't rejoin his regiment on the eastern front he has elected to go to the western front in charge of a company of Chinese." 4 WITH THE CHINKS I admired the way his company drilled. Here it may be said that the present strength of a Company is 490—490 coolies of varying physique who, having been medically examined and washed and clothed, are handed over to "one of us" in the raw to be hammered and coaxed and cursed into a disciphned body of men. That is all I know about it so far. And I have seen little more than this in the making. I don't doubt I shall see a great deal more and have much to say. But all in good time. To complete the description of the en- closure : to the left, as one comes in the gates, is a barn-like house, about 100 yards from the parade ground, formerly the resi- dence of the silk-filature factory manager, and now the Officers' Mess. Our mess. Its outstanding virtue is that it has a warm room, one cosy warm room, where we all sit in off-duty hours and discuss the merits and demerits of the Chinese coolie—not to men- tion the War and the days to come when we shall be tossing across the Northern Pacific or landing our companies somewhere in France. There are joys in store. JANUARY 5 " In the shape," says our pessimist, Med- cork, "of waves forty feet high, sea-sickness upon our Oriental multitude, and a transfer as a Tommy into some line regiment as soon as you set foot in the war zone." We are fourteen, I think, in the mess. Of all parts and professions ; successful young merchants who have thrown up good jobs to go home with the coolies, missionaries, planters, authors and nondescripts, not for- getting our Russian officer. To-night, my first night in camp, I have an impression that I have fallen among comrades, men of the right spirit, British in their passion for grousing.
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