Fashion & Balance, in the Time Of

Fashion & Balance, In the Time of COVID_19 FBS C19 Issue 8: 26.06.20

As ever, fashion is about trying to create a balance, and also to perfect the art of balancing. It’s never all black or all white, even in the trend reports. How we approach the future at any time is either optimistic or pessimistic, it’s that simple. The “don’t knows” in any poll simply don’t count. Looking behind us is interesting, but may not always be relevant, and looking forward, right now, is looking into the unknown. Since this is the first time, we have encountered COVID 19, how do we know what will happen as we deal with it, live with it and possibly cure it?

1 Predicting what fashion trends, from designer luxury through to high street retail, is crystal ball gazing. Having ideas is key, but are they just ideas or have they a foundation in reality, and experience? We can see that, even thinking about what will happen next in fashion, has to be a balance between past knowledge and future guesswork.

During the months, weeks, days and hours of living during COVID19, clothing remains an essential component of everybody’s lives. We start the day and get dressed, but is this merely clothing as utility or is it clothing as fashion? The theory is we make a statement, both to ourselves and the world, by our choice of clothes. Zoom and other meeting methods have encouraged us to think only about the top half of our wardrobe. Professionals working from home have tried to strike the balance between pre lockdown full on work mode, and joggers and a t shirt. The details are blurred in online meetings, some apps allow filters. and some people have resorted to clever lighting, pre-recorded segments and controlled backgrounds. So, in the same way, what do we believe that in the coming months we will see on the other side of fashion, as we return to meeting people in real situations, in real meetings? As we exit online meetings, we are asking which way will the majority of people jump? Will it be an extended smarter version of lockdown leisure? The ‘buy better buy less’ attitude, would result in this group buying well priced or budget, sustainable, practical and updated classics and basic. The other side would be dress up, only escapist, inventiveness and glamour in designer fashion. The “let’s make a huge fashion statement, money is no object’, style of statement dressing. We can but watch and see if these two options will perhaps be the balance and even out as the two key fashion stories? No one can answer truthfully yet, but we can look at the facts as they seem to be progressing day by day in the world around us.

Fashion is not unique or separate in how it balances, at the most basic level, between the creative and the business, between those in it for love, and those in it for money Imagination, desire, creativity, skills, drive, dreams, passion, inspiration and invention push the top level of creativity, be it a DJ or an architect.

Money, power, status, greed, avarice, exploitation, lack of empathy, and self-obsession drive the bottom level of products and mass production. In everything from a vase to a shirt it’s as simple as, originality versus copying.

In this issue we look at contrasts, opposites, disparity and how current events in our world may point to an ever-deeper chasm between the views of optimism and pessimism. More flash, more ostentatious flaunting of money or a new quiet gentle luxury? Make it, push it out there, don’t care; or ethical and sustainable? Perhaps, most of all, this is a time to think about where your beliefs are positioned and ask some serious questions.

Tony Glenville Fashion Commentator

2 Contrasts:

Rome-based label Bulgari which resides under the LVMH umbrella and is typically known for its jewellery, watches, fragrances and leather goods is now cranking out hand sanitizer. The high-end brand just pledged to make hundreds of thousands of recyclable bottles of hand-sanitizing gel, to be distributed to medical facilities in Italy.

Sir Philip Green Under Fire for Pursuing UK Taxpayer Cash to Furlough Arcadia Staff.

Philip Green in Monaco last week; he has lived in the tax haven since 1998

3 The criticisms came after Green was spotted in Monaco this week browsing multimillion-pound luxury yachts! Strolling around Monaco harbour on Friday, Sir Philip Green did not seem to have a care in the world. The Arcadia tycoon stopped to look at Khalilah, a 157ft gold five-bedroom superyacht currently on the market for €28.5m (£25.8m).

Back home, the situation is less rosy. Green is claiming British taxpayers’ cash to keep thousands of his staff furloughed, leaving their livelihoods in the balance. He is also withholding rent payments from landlords, even though most of his high-street empire reopened 631 stores last week.

The Arcadia Group furloughed 14,500 staff in April under Rishi Sunak’s job- retention scheme. A source close to Arcadia, whose brands include Burton | Dorothy Perkins | Evans | Miss Selfridge | Topman | Topshop | Wallis and Outfit - out-of-town stores carrying the groups various brands, not a clothing brand in its own right. Topshop and Topman represent Arcadia’s flagship brands. https://www.retailgazette.co.uk/blog/2020/06/sir-philip-green-criticised-for-using-taxpayer- cash-to-furlough-arcadia-staff/

Arcadia Stores at Risk as Discussions with Landlord’s Progress: Arcadia Group is reportedly in discussion with landlords over leases with rolling break clauses, allowing the Sir Philip Green-owned retail empire to terminate a lease at any time during a term.

The news, as reported by PA news agency, raises concerns that some of the fashion giant’s stores could shut down permanently as a result of the coronavirus pandemic and in the wake of a string of closures in the past year.

While landlords may be served with three months’ notice, it does not necessarily mean Arcadia’s stores will close as new arrangements could be made to keep them open. It has not been confirmed how many stores or which of Arcadia’s fashion chains which include Topshop, Burton, Dorothy Perkins, Evans, Miss Selfridge and Wallis could be affected.

4 Expensive & Cheap | Luxury Pieces Versus Mass Produced:

It’s always been the same, and COVID19 hasn’t changed that, luxury, truly special, fashion is expensive, and mass produced is middle to low price. However, Reiss, some of Cos, Ted Baker and many others are not cheap, whereas ASOS is truly budget, alongside Primark.

The fact that one is online and the other a physical retailer may well account for the Primark customer queues as soon as they opened.

The customer who shops for cheap pieces all the time, isn’t looking to change their consumer habits. This has always been true at all levels. Many years ago, I was told about the Yves Saint Lauren Haute Couture customer who when entering an Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche Pret a Porter boutique commented that if she had to buy something it wouldn’t be the standard of quality they were used to. Vintage demonstrates the value of the top level. There are many arguments around fast fashion, but it’s never a simple good and bad question. We are all entitled to buy what we like with our own money. Whatever level you shop at, it’s where you feel comfortable. So, here are some examples of both ends of the scale. https://youtu.be/z3Hx6Ca8JXc https://youtu.be/9VhvV7jJIfA https://youtu.be/P2xo1e5WDJk https://youtu.be/v2l6UC5Gjts https://www.christies.com/features/hand-painted-silk-dress-Zhang-Daqian-10545-1.aspx https://hindmanauctions.com/departments/luxury-accessories-and-couture

Hindman’s Couture and Luxury Accessories Department specializes in vintage clothing, textiles, and luxury accessories dating from the 18th century to the present. Its auctions offer a compelling range of contemporary and vintage fashion, haute couture, luxury accessories, and museum. quality artefacts. They present a carefully curated selection of property from the United States and Europe and often include important and rare items from museums, collectors, and estates. https://hindmanauctions.com/departments/luxury-accessories-and-couture

https://hindmanauctions.com/departments/luxury-accessories-and-couture

Timothy Long is the director and senior specialist of the Couture and Luxury Accessories Department at Hindman.

Mr. Long joined the firm in 2018, after nearly 20 years as a curator of fashion and decorative arts in museums in the United States and United Kingdom, including the Museum of London, Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, and Chicago History Museum. At Hindman, he works closely with individual clients, collectors, dealers, and museums throughout the United States to identify, authenticate, and bring to auction an exciting collection of couture and luxury accessories. Mr. Long’s recent publications include Charles James: Designer in Detail and a chapter on the same designer in London Couture: British Luxury

1923–1975, both published by V&A Publishing

Fortuny: From Invention to Eternity:

An exhibition in Paris of the pioneering designer revealed a standard today’s ‘luxury’ fashion industry would struggle to follow. ‘Delphos’ 1930 Fortuny

‘Yes, you could wear every single outfit today without looking dressed for a costume party. This is because the shape is made by the body, rather than by stuffing the human form into a pre- ordained silhouette.’ Fortuny: From Invention to Eternity by Suzy Menkes

Spanish-born artist and designer Mariano Fortuny was active in Italy, where he established a textile workshop and a commercial silk printing factory--a version of which is still in operation today. Best known for his beautiful textiles and unstructured garments, Fortuny continually referenced historical and non-Western sources, reviving and creating complex fabric treatments and dye techniques.

Working in the early 20th century, Fortuny's gowns were especially popular among ‘Avant Grade Women of '20s and '30s’ who were seeking both freedom of movement and a hint of exoticism in their wardrobe.

The ‘Made in Britain’ effect: the future of UK sourcing.

Adidas Named Global Leader in Sourcing Sustainable Cotton:

Adidas has become a global leader in sourcing sustainable cotton, according to a ranking of companies buying the material. The Cotton Ranking 2020 report published by three organisations, Pesticide Action Network UK, Solidaridad and WWF, is based on independent research looking at 77 major cotton-using companies.

7 Adidas went from sixth place in the last ranking in 2017 to the top, as they now source 100 per cent of their cotton from sustainable sources.

The UK, and London in particular, have long been heralded as the champions of innovative design and cutting-edge style, and it’s no secret that the fashion industry is one of Britain’s most crucial economic drivers.

Traditionally, the UK hasn’t been a well-known port of call for sourcing and manufacture within the fashion industry, with many brands choosing to outsource their supply chain to Asia and Eastern Europe in search of more cost-effective solutions. But, as the Made in Britain label begins to reclaim its appeal, the future’s looking brighter for UK suppliers.

We shouldn’t underestimate the power of the ‘Made in Britain’ (MIB) effect. British fashion has become synonymous with quality, credibility and class – something that can be seen from high -end to high street fashion; British heritage counts for a lot where fashion is concerned. This is evident in the re-adoption of the MIB badge by mainstream names such as Topshop and ASOS.

Leading British companies are showing international leadership on sourcing cotton that doesn’t damage the environment – but the gap between the best and the rest is simply not good enough according to WWF UK campaigns executive director Kate Norgrove.

Some 11 big retailers, including Nike, H&M and C&A group, have committed to sourcing 100 per cent of their cotton from more sustainable sources by the end of the year.

https://www.purelondon.com/pure-london-blog/the-made-in-britain-effect-the-future-of-uk-sourcing https://www.ethicalconsumer.org/fashion-clothing/shopping-guide/high-street-clothes-shops https://www.businessinsider.com/huge-queues-form-outside-nike-primark-shops-reopen-in-uk-2020- 6?IR=T https://www.bbc.com/news/business-53044826 https://youtu.be/sNubHTJAObw https://youtu.be/vwNTtM_iyFI https://youtu.be/-_J5V25G4js https://www.bbc.com/news/uk-48682493

8 Fantasy & Normal | Extravagance Versus Simplicity:

Marchesa Casati; as she would surely have desired, the Marchesa’s substantial artistic and cultural legacy continues to be recognised to this very day. Major artworks of and inspired by her continue to provide provocative centrepieces for important exhibitions worldwide. Of major relevance today is Casati's innovative fashion sense, which remains a constant resource for major and fledgling designers everywhere. These include most notably John Galliano, Karl Lagerfeld, Tom Ford, Alexander McQueen, Alberta Ferretti, and Dries Van Noten.

La Marchesa Luisa Casati (aka La Casati) photographed with her head resting on her arms, with pearls draped over her arms, taken circa 1913. (Photo by Adolph de Meyer/Condé Nast via Getty Images)

Diane Pernet:

9 Diane Pernet is a Paris-based American-born international fashion blogger and critic and founder of the international ASVOFF festival. https://ashadedviewonfashion.com

There is much chatter about very short skirts and optimism, plus wild exuberant fashion as trends post lockdown. Some people dress in an extraordinary way at all times of the day and night, indeed there is little difference between their views of day or night. They are, to a degree, outside fashion since they embrace a look which is an extreme fantasy of how they see themselves. Simplicity is the reverse side of the coin, restrained, minimal, quiet and timeless. Except that extreme is also timeless, because it follows no season or trend, in both cases of these styles, the people dress for their own pleasure and amusement, as well as their personalities. So, as we exit lockdown and COVID 19 will more people have to confidence to embrace their style personalities? Will the disparity between the two schools of style continue? Think about the facts. In truth there are far fewer fashion eccentrics than classists, and usually only one or two at any given moment. The discussions on short skirt lengths and the decline of modest dress has no relevance in many cultures, the adoption of very extravagant styles means making a statement all the time, plus having an endless number of changes. Bracket these statements alongside the urging of the fashion business to become responsible for it’s actions, out interests in ethical and sustainable fashion and it points to a furious dichotomy. It’s wonderful to have great personalities with exuberant dress style around, but as the key look of the season?

Daphne Guinness:

A little over a decade ago, Daphne Guinness dominated the front rows and street-style galleries with her unique, unmissable goth take on high fashion. She served as muse to many and counted the likes of Alexander McQueen and Tom Ford as friends. Guinness bought the late Isabella Blow's entire archive and helped mount an exhibition devoted to her mentor.

https://fashionista.com/2020/03/daphne-guinness-tiktok-superstar

10 Anna Piaggi:

With an unwavering passion for both the history and contemporary relevance of garments, Anna Piaggi was a muse to Karl Lagerfeld, “a poet with clothes” to Bill Cunningham, and a vision of imagination for all who knew her. One person who perhaps knew her best is indeed Mr Stefano Piaggi, who will come to Polimoda on March 23rd to inform students about his aunt’s ongoing influence and legacy.

https://www.polimoda.com/anna-piaggi-the-fashion-legend

Anna Dello Russo:

Once described by Helmut Newton as a “fashion maniac”, Anna Dello Russo is currently the Editor At Large and creative consultant for Vogue Japan. Anna spent 18 years at Conde Nast Italia starting as a Fashion Editor at Vogue Italia she went on to become Editor of L’Uomo Vogue from 2000-2006. Anna was born in Bari in Southern Italy, and now lives in Milan with her dog Cucciolina. She is an avid collector of fashion and jewellery and describes herself as a passionate fashionista.

http://www.annadellorusso.com/

11 Valerie Von Sobel:

She survived communism, lost her mother, husband and son, is 77 and a fashion icon. Luiz Sanchez meets Valerie Von Sobel. The first thing I notice when I meet Valerie Von Sobel is her unbridled level of energy and mental alertness, which she attributes to being constantly curious. “Being engaged keeps you energized,” she says as we drink cold pressed juice. “Having a healthy level of self-respect made me become vegetarian 50 years ago, when I started exercising in earnest.”

https://www.theyakmag.com/valerie-von-sobel/

Isabella Blow:

In the end, it seemed, Isabella Blow loved fashion more than the fashion world loved her back. By 2006 the woman who’d discovered major talents such as Alexander McQueen, launched countless new looks, and turned hats into a spectator sport was being marginalized by an industry that couldn’t compute her value. Three months after Blow’s suicide, friends, mentors, and colleagues tell Edward Helmore why the wildly eccentric British aristocrat became an icon, and then a casualty.

https://www.vanityfair.com/news/2007/09/isabella-blow-story

12 The simple dressers of course are invisible and the key to their look is pared down, and not headline grabbing, but here are some examples. https://archive.vanityfair.com/article/share/6a97b0db-ef6a-4a8a-9b23-9b9593c46a3a?inline https://www.vogue.com/article/slim-keith-summer-style-inspiration https://www.irenebrination.com/irenebrination_notes_on_a/2017/12/balenciaga-rachel-mellon.html

Formal & Casual | Dress Up Versus Dress Down:

Slim Keith 1949

The power suit for women and Wall Street suiting for men. Does “dressing for success”, not just a favourite term from the 1980’s but also a book, mean formality and structure? The new power suit is a title much loved of journalists, and the working woman’s wardrobe used to be a regular autumn feature for editors. The idea that a jacket might be replaced by knitwear was, back in the 1990’s, so revolutionary that an editor friend once phoned me. The reason was to take me through and discuss her planned outfit ‘without a jacket, but with a cardigan’, to be worn at a board meeting. Things have retail you changed, but we still see overly relaxed dressing at business as a hinderance. The Times in its business section, has mentioned again and again over the years young men not getting a job, they were eminently qualified for because they were wearing Spider-Man socks, or slightly joke cuff links.

The message we send out with our choice of wardrobe isn’t limited to the fashion world, every business has its attitudes and aesthetic approach. The shift from easy working from home, to back to the office business will set up some questions for many people. How far dare we push the elastic waist and pull on pieces we’ve grown accustomed too?

13 Trend Hunter:

From Decorative Face Masks to AR-Enhanced Virtual Product Showcases Riley von Niessen | June 17, 2020 | Fashion

The June 2020 fashion trends include recent design innovations that can help consumers keep themselves safe during the COVID-19 pandemic, creative editorials that are shot by their subjects in order to maintain social distancing measures, and digitally enhanced look books that make it easier for consumers to shop online.

For the June 2020 GQ issue, actor Robert Pattinson shot his own photos, including the cover shot that shows him holding the camera he uses to capture himself. In addition to capturing his own shots at home using a self-timer, Pattinson took part in a remote interview with writer Zach Baron via FaceTime. In the interview, Pattinson highlights how he's been handling isolation, including some tips on obscure food hacks he's been using at home. https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/gallery/2020/mar/19/in-a-spectacular-fashion-the-escapist-world- of-karl-lagerfelds-chanel-in-pictures http://theglitterguide.com/2019/10/09/is-escapist-glam-falls-biggest-fashion-trend/ https://medium.com/@Trendalytics/nyfw-spring-2020-escapist-fantasy-4b995a4250b9 https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/escapist-fashion-swimwear-sales-surge-amid- quarantine-1203636829/ https://www.drapersonline.com/people/the-fashion-industrys-forecast-for-the-year-ahead/7038753.article

Sportswear & Tailoring | Relaxed Versus Formal:

Muriel Bowser Mayor of Washington DC.

14 Menswear, even as we hurtle towards 2020, has the hugest, biggest, largest gap between a suit and off duty clothing. City gents, from any country, transform at weekends into dads running around. This may be a signal that after lockdown these wardrobe extremes will be the normal for everyone as they dress for the purpose? Tailoring has had a huge resurgence in womenswear in recent seasons and so how we balance our wardrobe and shift the pieces as we shift our lives will become more important.

It’s perhaps about the layering and curating of our wardrobes which enables us to buy carefully, but still have fun with shopping, the mixing and matching to offer an outfit for all occasions from the same closet. The practicality of not wearing things out by rotating the wearing, and the balance between basics, classics and utility and the special pieces. This is indeed generally non gender specific since many of the foundations of fashion merely need sizing to enable everyone to buy.

Dress up - dress down, is about clever dressing, even special events can be covered by accessories or one statement piece. So, relaxed and formal can be coexistent and there is no need to place all the emphasis on one.

The big question facing ethical and sustainable fashion, are the single wear party or special occasions pieces which have no real function beyond the moment. Party dressing and instant gratification fashion, the hot item or must have, which is never a wardrobe staple, or a classic piece to wear and wear? Sportswear and tailoring have form and function for everyone. Of course, the image I’ve chosen features neither of those groups. https://www.sportswearpro.com/ https://thesportsedit.com/blogs/news/top-spring-summer-2020-activewear-trends https://www.augustasportswear.com/catalog https://www.vanityforbes.com/2020/02/11/mens-spring-tailoring-trends/ https://www.fashionbeans.com/article/mens-tailoring-trends/ https://www.gqmiddleeast.com/Louis-Vuitton-Tailoring-Pre-Fall-2020-menswear

Jacinta Arden Prime Minister of New Zealand.

15 Ardern is commonly seen wearing high end New Zealand brands at events; however she was spotted wearing a jacket from Save Mart at the VNZMAs, over a new season Juliette Hogan dress.

Vogue, which is widely described as “the fashion bible”, has never had a female politician on their cover, however, there has been exception for politicians’ wives. Michelle Obama, Melania Trump and Hilary Clinton have all featured on the front cover previously. According to NZ Herald, Ardern’s advisors confirmed that Ardern’s wardrobe for the photo shoot would be all New Zealand designers.

Earlier last month, Ardern was deemed 13th most powerful female political leader by Forbes magazine.

Gender Specific & Genderless | Ultra Feminine/Masculine Tradition Versus Genderless Future:

Decoding Genderless Fashion, the Future of the Industry; Genderless fashion designers and global retailers discuss the segment predicted to be the future of the industry.

Nan Kempner: Couture Collector at The Heart of New York's Fashion Elite.

She Wore it Well: Nan Kempner knew how to make an entrance. 1968 the New York Socialite was denied entry to the Manhattan restaurant La Côte Basque; Kempner famously removed her trousers and entered the restaurant wearing only the jacket.

She had been a muse to Yves St Laurent, the original of Tom Wolfe's "social x-rays" (hostesses, in The Bonfire of The Vanities, as thin as they were rich), and a reliable photo-op for 50 years, recently in demand for glossy features on fabulousness in age. "If I'm going to go," she warned en route to hospital for treatment for the emphysema that killed her, "I'm going to do it with a photographer taking my picture."

During the past seven issues we’ve looked Vogue Italia linking the visual content across gender, LFW going genderless and Gucci announcing the merging of collections.

16 The designers we’ve featured like Harris Reed further blend traditional views of fashion as menswear or womenswear. The discussion isn’t new, since Unisex in the 1960’s, a term still, found on many hairdressers facias, the division of the sexes has been a fashion topic. Androgynous trends and the stealing of wardrobe essentials from each other has characterised fashion since the 1920’s. It’s extraordinary to think that as late as 1968 the above incident could have happened. https://fashionjournal.com.au/fashion/fashion-gendered-2020/ https://fashionmagazine.com/style/gender-neutral-dressing-mens-2020/ https://www.countryandtownhouse.co.uk/style/gender-neutral-fashion/ https://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/gallery/spring-summer-2020-trends-for-men

Daniel Lismore:

Daniel Lismore is a London based artist, designer, creative consultant, celebrity stylist, writer and campaigner. He started his career as a photographer before moving in front of the lens and becoming a model. He has been shot by and acted as creative consultant to some of the world's most famous photographers including Mert & Marcus, Steven Klein, David La Chapelle and Ellen von Unwerth. He is known for living his life as art, for elaborate and extravagant ensembles that brilliantly combine haute couture with vintage fabrics, found objects, chainmail. ethnic jewellery, millinery and more in an expression of eccentric, creative energy.

17 Inspired by art in all its forms, history and his travels, Lismore constantly combines and amalgamates multiple inspirations from around the world into vibrant expressions of cultural appreciation.

Rules & No Rules | Lockdown Versus Freedom:

It should be simple, but it’s not. Firstly, the world shut down, locked down or introduced different rules during the months of January through March. Secondly each country is now dealing with the phases of the virus and the aftermath differently. Thirdly we have no idea about spikes and resurgence of the virus. Learning to live by rules isn’t the same in every country, and the rules offered and implemented by each government are different. Every country has its own constitution and every parliamentary meeting, every new phase and every decision is specific to that country’s history and current situation. Lifestyles, poverty, religious groups and indeed every detail of lockdown and the slow return to “normal” are individual. So, as we enter the second half of 2020 be sure that a fashion week as an event is going to face local rules not international, plus; travel. Many, many people are not ready to travel, be it to the local village or to fly across the world. It’s easy to say “put on a mask” but for many their fears and doubts are stronger than getting out their passport. As holidays in Europe start up, in small ways, we can watch and learn. Just think that for the club kids, Ibiza nightlife is shut and remains shut; it’s not yet a full return to normal. https://www.ft.com/content/3ced195c-99e4-11ea-8b5b-63f7c5c86bef https://english.alarabiya.net/en/coronavirus/2020/05/01/Top-10-activities-people-are-dreaming- of-post-lockdown https://www.bbc.com/news/uk-52875126 https://fnf-europe.org/2020/06/15/life-after-lockdown-what-will-the-world-look-like-after-the- coronavirus-pandemic/

The Old Way & The New Way | Multiple Seasons Versus Two Season’s:

“How has the larger fashion industry responded to this? By adding more seasons. This is where it gets really confusing. The longstanding spring/summer and fall/winter seasons actually don’t spend much time on the retail shelves – usually two to three months. So, fashion has added Resort and Pre-Fall to the schedule because they, in contrast, actually spend as long as six months on the retail shelves.”

Catwalk, runway, showtime, showroom, salon, or whatever it is; the heart of fashion is he pieces, the clothes. Back to runway shows? If theatres can’t open how will audiences be seated for shows.

Shows and seasons are under a huge amount of scrutiny, and technical responses are in development. Burberry announces a hybrid and the recent LFW didn’t actually have any real shows or show substitutes. A creative film isn’t the same as a full-blown catwalk show, but it’s also not the same as going to a showroom and looking through rails. Virtual tours and any ideas PR’s and designers can come up with are welcome, but it’s not the same. However, harking on what a fashion week isn’t doesn’t help, but we’re still not sure what the autumn weeks will be, who is joining and how. The idea of only two clean cut clear seasons already seems to be in disarray and many key brands and designers are staying silent. If we continue to dissipate the statements of the seasons and blur the seasonal statements confusion will be the buzz word of the day. If the entire fashion business would, could or might, show all the clothes for the next six months only twice a year, how would we feel? This is the proposal from many in the industry, and allied to deliveries at the right time, and discounting/sales at the end of the season only, would revolutionise the fashion business and its calendar. Already this year isn’t shaping up like that, but fashion weeks with models in venues for September 2020? Let’s be honest, that’s barely ten to twelve weeks away. Hotels,

19 restaurants and showrooms all ready and fully functioning, the entire system back as we know it, knew it, is that what we think? The biggest question is, will all the worlds senior players fly to Milan and Paris? https://learningenglish.voanews.com/a/fashion-industry-clears-its-calendar-looks-to-other- changes/5467957.html https://www.bigcommerce.com/blog/new-report-proves-unanimous-agreement-time-ripe- change-fashion-industry/#undefined https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/a31255947/end-of-fashion-seasons/ https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/designers/a32672233/gucci-alessandro-michele-two- seasonless-fashion-shows/ https://www.vogue.com/article/designers-fixing-fashion-calendar-retail-coronavirus-response https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2020/may/21/the-fashion-system-must-change-bfc-and- cfda-call-for-an-industry-reset https://www.marketplace.org/2020/05/27/covid-19-leading-to-changes-in-high-fashion- industry/ https://www.bbc.com/news/entertainment-arts-52394504

20 Complexity & Simplicity | Multiple Trends Versus Evolving Trends:

Simon Woodson - Next "Added to that, many consumers simply aren't interested in buying clothes right now. There's so much focus on purchasing essential items to survive during the lockdown and I think everyone's minds have naturally been focused on that. So, fashion just becomes an after-thought, or no thought at all in that kind of context."

Do We Need More Clothes? Do We Need Trends?

To keep the fashion business going, of course we need to persuade people to buy new clothes, that’s obvious. To communicate the stories and the designer’s narrative behind their collection we do need trends. However, the endless recycling and editorial of the same tired “Plaid”, or “Rock Chick” or the endless “must have, hot item, refresh your wardrobe with” stories need updating. We need to be honest about the way to update a wardrobe, about how subtle the shifts can be, from looking right to looking wrong. Most of all we need to think less about huge global trends and much more about culturally and climatic trends, and trends with specific targets. Local not global trends. What is great for size eight teenagers, isn’t going to be a huge trend for women over forty and of average size. (Whatever that might be considered!). As another example, the contrast between fast, urban city life, and slow country life and either relaxed or active beach life, is huge. So, trends? Yes, but we have to think differently and apply a more intelligent approach. It is possible that in 2020 many readers know what suits them, or what to try out. They know that many trends don’t apply to themselves and will not be dictated to as in the old days of fashion. There’s more options, more lives and considerations. Fashion victims are amongst the saddest people around, decked out in the hottest trend, demanding to be admired.

https://www.popfashioninfo.com/trends/sea_12322/#anchor https://www.vogue.fr/fashion/article/best-fashion-trends-fall-winter-2020-2021 https://www.dunnedwards.com/colors/specs/posts/2020-color-plus-design-trend-updates-in- the-time-of-covid-19-playtime https://www.mckinsey.com/~/media/mckinsey/industries/retail/our%20insights/its%20time%20t o%20rewire%20the%20fashion%20system%20state%20of%20fashion%20coronavirus%20up date/the-state-of-fashion-2020-coronavirus-update-vf.ashx https://sourcingjournal.com/topics/fashion-trends/

History & The Future | Facts Versus Predictions:

The past can have an influence on the present and the future in fashion. The history of fashion, as opposed to the history of costume, is a wonderful resource and often an inspiration. The trick is to interpret the past, reinvent it, subvert it and generally use it so that it is original not a carbon copy. The beauty of an Art Deco fashion plate isn’t the same in 2021, so its value is to inspire. What happened in the aftermath of a war in the 1940’s is interesting, but cannot simply be applied to the end of lockdown in 2020. Political, sociological and environmental issues change, the context is as important as the information. So, use the past, investigate the past and know the past but it’s another tool to use, not something to simply rely on. Historical context around dress is extremely complex, and even in the twentieth century there are contextual reasons for shifts in dress.

Looking back and trying to guess how this might help us guess the future is dangerous for many reasons. Yet style from past eras can be wonderful in subtle or even more obvious interpretations.

The biggest trap is either, continually harping back to the past and glorifying it, as the golden age, or constantly displaying your cleverness by aligning current pieces to something done in the past.

22 A broad-shouldered tailored women’s jacket from 1940, 1968, 1996 and 2015 isn’t the same jacket.

See the original 1982 Blade Runner Film. Below people show the threads which join the past to today but it’s a thread, a whisper.

https://classiq.me/the-future-is-shaped-by-the-past-the-costumes-of-blade-runner

Laurent Dombrowicz:

Laurent Dombrowicz is a Belgian born stylist. Main editorial work for different publications in Europe and Asia. Womenswear, Menswear, Beauty and Jewellery. http://www.laurentdombrowicz.com/

24 Show News:

The Old Way & The New Way | Multiple Seasons Versus Two Season’s:

Fashion shows have been integral to the business of fashion since Charles Frederick Worth first asked his wife to model a shawl for a customer in the 1860’s. We love to see clothes on models. Since Lucile, Lady Duff Gordon, invented the supermodel back in the early 1900’s with Dolores, we also love to see who’s modelling.

Today with Pat McGrath on makeup and Guido Palau on hair, alongside sound designer Michel Gaubert and show producers like Alexandre de Betak, showtime truly is SHOWTIME! Is digital going to cut it? How do we respond?

Opera has been working so hard to show us new ways and the most recent, OperaVision Summer Gala from eight opera houses was sensational. https://youtu.be/LtRyMhVP1e0 demonstrated a superb amount of work across several opera houses with imaginative uses of the empty theatre’s, performers who could communicate directly to the camera, and a solid belief in their work. Fashion needs to rethink in this same way, down from huge numbers to just a tiny number.

It’s time to think, rethink and be imaginative; if opera can do it, Fashion surely fashion can?

https://www.vogue.com/article/burberry-plans-a-live-digital-experience-for-spring-2021

Leicester:

Local Production & BooHoo:

Boohoo is in the lead online but what helps them? Local sourcing. https://www.thetimes.co.uk/article/boohoo-snaps-up-high-street-s-big-fashion-victims- h8d8q3gnj?shareToken=188bc8509a9bdba60cbe05a1dfff97eb https://www.euronews.com/living/2020/05/23/boohoo-booms-and-primark-plummets-how-has- coronavirus-really-affected-fast-fashion

Is this the future?

Time to balance classrooms and studios, with access for all. https://fashionista.com/2020/06/polimoda-e-courses-summer-2020

Anyone can take these online courses from a world-class fashion school with prominent industry mentors. Polimoda is offering new e-courses on everything from design to personal branding, and Caroline Issa and Laudomia Pucci have signed on to lend their expertise.

Caroline Issa Editor in Chief Tank Magazine

Many of us are looking for ways to make the most of our continued time spent indoors. You might be trying to read more books, double down on your at-home workout routine or advocate for social justice. Another idea? Learn something relevant to your career in the ever-evolving industry we call fashion.

Gossip:

This story, like the memoir by Andre Leon Talley, rumbles on and on. The difference is that Karl Lagerfeld’s story involves money, and the details of his private life. https://airmail.news/issues/2020-6-20/estate-of-affairs https://www.tatler.com/article/karl-lagerfeld-fortune-who-will-inherit

Thank you T.G.