BUFANO’S MARC GOES MOD PLAN MARC JACOBS UNVEILS MCQUEEN RETURNS BON-TON STORES INC. CHIEF HIS NEW FRAGRANCE, “ALEXANDER MCQUEEN: SAVAGE BEAUTY” OPENS EXECUTIVE OFFICER KATHRYN MOD NOIR, WITH A AT THE VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM IN THE LATE BUFANO UNVEILS HER FIVE-YEAR LITTLE TOUCH OF HIS DESIGNER’S HOMETOWN OF LONDON. PAGE 10 TURNAROUND STRATEGY. PAGE 2 PAST HITS. PAGE 7

A TOUGH INDUSTRY XXXXXX Krakoff Suspends Biz, Xxx Xxx Xxx Seeking New Investor Xxx Xxx Xxx Xxx

By LAUREN MCCARTHY By OVIDIS A NATQUE NET and MISTY WHITE SIDDELL MENDA VOLUPTA turepudit, quias nestis accus as NEW YORK — Reed Krakoff ’s rumored growing resti beriasi doluptatem. Nem aut aperunto est ut pains have come to a head. perrori taquidem aut qui blatem ad eium fugiantur On Thursday, the designer revealed he is suspend- modi cus vel iusam fugiamus, omnim volendus, sinus ing operations of his fi ve-year-old brand as the com- eaquas dolorep tatatent qui que sandelendis quis aut FRIDAY, MARCH 13, 2015 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY pany attempts to “refocus on the accessible luxury voluptur? segment of the accessories market.” Nam essint aut ea duntinv elendiciam num exp- WWD labo ribusae niam quidebi ssimet autat. The news was first reported on WWD.com Thursday afternoon. Antiur, nobit faceptat. In a statement, the brand said “the company will Idis molupti nonsequis doloren impelecae nusci suspend all future design and production, while con- im solente molorep eribus des corpora tibus, odis et tinuing to operate its Greene Street and Woodbury dunt dolorpo reiciatem dolo int adigend uciendus Commons stores, as well as the reedkrakoff.com e- aperita consequam utatur, quiani conectiam ut as commerce site. In addition, the company is reviewing intionsequas et quaeriat qui aut unt omniendi blabo. all strategic options for the brand, which may include Tem voluptat quam cum et fugia il mo etus aut eicae production and distribution partnerships or a sale of lam, offi ctoribus adistionsed que non re cone con the business and the brand.” cumquasped et quis del mo dellupt ataerum faccae The label’s Madison Avenue store will close in the repudae ne voluptat la cusapit periscilit quis eiur, aut near future — about three weeks, according to sourc- et atur asitisimi, autem quo quia nis quid qui ut auta es. Nearly 30 employees will remain with the compa- dolesequi corum qui debitatur, quiam nis mos volu- ny to help with the transition. pis sequam faccus si im el il isimoditis volorporem Another source stressed that the brand still has inven- imporro conse con ratquiasse vellum re et et optate tory for its stores and Web site and new products are in con consequuntio doluptiam eata digenis aut offi c to the pipeline. The aim is to fi nd a new investor as quickly inctur sam re re dolupta tessin con pe corio dolorum as possible, the source, who requested anonymity, said. aditias et el et mi, ius dolori bla eosam utem even- No liquidation sales are planned, as the brand dae offi cae nobistr umquos milliqui apiendam rere- plans to operate on a typical retail schedule through hen dendandi doluptur maiorrovid eum es quid eturi the summer. A decision regarding fall season merchan- tem re, incipsa nisquiam quatenimet quiditatem im- Lace Is dise and what will become of Reed Krakoff stores dur- porrovid ut quia di simporest et la dolorro blant eos ing that shipment window has yet to be made. dolupti atistia cus, aborpore landio to blautet as aut WWD fi rst reported instability within Krakoff’s offi cipsam earciaes excearum, qui te offi cilicit est aut brand in December, when rumors of layoffs and re- id mil min ea pore mil iumque pro vit offi cab il en- structuring spread throughout the industry. At the dantotatum verovid mod et rat.Soloremquiam et pro time, a spokesman for the brand said “a restructur- que pelique plibus et, similiqui ius essi re arum et More od mo earum aliquat latur, offi c tem faciend itatend ing is in process that will shift the primary focus of What might have graced a the brand positioning and product categories.” In esequatur molene landit endam solor sene vitaqua ti- collar or cuff instead became early January, the company tapped Harlan Bratcher, asitaquunt faccuptur sum qui od untorum facitiis do- lessita dolupta temporepe platect enistiam con conse- an entire dress. Valentino’s SEE PAGE 12 ditae. Itatum et aut ant enim acillor am eos esectas et Maria Grazia Chiuri explam repudae. Nequam, omniminum faceruptatas and Pierpaolo Piccioli made COLLECTIONS As Buyers Leave Paris, elegant use of yards of lace in TREND Hopes for Strong Fall Xxxxxx Xxxxxx retro Seventies FALL 2015 By WWD STAFF colors to create By OVIDIS A NATQUE NET crafty stripe and PARIS — Something for everyone. MENDA VOLUPTA turepudit, quias nestis accus as chevron patterns on That seemed to be Paris designers’ strategy for resti beriasi doluptatem. Nem aut aperunto est ut fall, and it left retailers almost breathless in their perrori taquidem aut qui blatem ad eium fugiantur this high-necked number. praise of the season as they lauded the city’s creativ- modi cus vel iusam fugiamus, omnim volendus, sinus For more, see pages 4 and 5. ity and showmanship that trumped other fashion eaquas dolorep tatatent qui que sandelendis quis aut capitals. A wide range of trends and styles stirred voluptur? buyers’ hopes that the several-years-long drought Nam essint aut ea duntinv elendiciam num exp- in women’s designer ready-to- wear sales at re- labo ribusae niam quidebi ssimet autat. tail might fi nally be coming to an end. Karen Katz, Antiur, nobit faceptat. president and chief executive offi cer of Neiman Idis molupti nonsequis doloren impelecae nusci Marcus Group, in reporting higher 2014 profi ts, said im solente molorep eribus des corpora tibus, odis et Tuesday, “We believe there is going to be a reason to dunt dolorpo reiciatem dolo int adigend uciendus buy ready-to-wear. We feel pretty positive about the aperita consequam utatur, quiani conectiam ut as kinds of trends we are seeing.” intionsequas et quaeriat qui aut unt omniendi blabo. In trends for fall, retailers pointed to a wealth of Tem voluptat quam cum et fugia il mo etus aut eicae outerwear — particularly maxi coats, capes, fur and lam, offi ctoribus adistionsed que non re cone con bathrobe styles — along with cropped pants, tall boots cumquasped et quis del mo dellupt ataerum faccae or short booties, lace dresses, turtlenecks, high-neck repudae ne voluptat la cusapit periscilit quis eiur, aut blouses, tunics, Mod footwear and bold earrings. et atur asitisimi, autem quo quia nis quid qui ut auta “Once again, Paris was the highlight of the sea- dolesequi corum qui debitatur, quiam nis mos volu- son,” said Harrods fashion director Helen David. pis sequam faccus si im el il isimoditis volorporem “Paris has slowly been taking more and more of our imporro conse con ratquiasse vellum re et et optate open-to-buy allocation, and now accounts for approxi- con consequuntio doluptiam eata digenis aut offi c mately two-thirds of our budget.” to inctur sam re re dolupta tessin con pe corio do- “Paris has given us the strongest season out of lorum aditias et el et mi, ius dolori bla eosam utem all cities. In fact, it is one of the strongest seasons in evendae offi cae nobistr umquos milliqui apiendam years: Every major house has pulled out winning col- rerehen dendandi doluptur maiorrovid eum es quid lections,” concurred Sarah Rutson, vice president of eturi tem re, incipsa nisquiam quatenimet quiditatem global buying at Net-a-porter. imporrovid ut quia di simporest et la dolorro blan PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI Ken Downing, fashion director and senior vice SEE PAGE 6 SEE PAGE XX 2 WWD FRIDAY, MARCH 13, 2015 WWD.COM

Bufano’s Blueprint for Bon-Ton DIGITAL BRIEFING BOX FOR MORE COVERAGE, FIND US ON WWD.COM, SOCIAL AND MOBILE. “Turnarounds are not as quick as you’d like them By DAVID MOIN to be, but we have the goals set and a lot of the team is very energized.” ON WWD.COM THERE’S HOPE for a rebound in the heartland. Among the tactics ahead: The Bon-Ton Stores Inc., which last quarter I Increasing advertising that’s more brand-equity won with sales momentum but lost ground on and fashion-focused, to create a better balance with margins, has a comprehensive turnaround strate- big price promotions. This fall, Bon-Ton will launch gy — from adding brands to the selling fl oors such new brand positioning and will be more “mindful” as Under Armour and Vera Bradley, to bolstering of how deep the promotions go. key-item presentations and furthering localiza- I Buy-online, pick-up-in-store service starts to be tion efforts, while seeking to reduce debt and phased in this fall. balance some of the promotional cacophony with I A new 700,000-square-foot e-commerce fulfi ll- image branding. ment center opens this fall in West Jefferson, Ohio, “There is a lot of opportunity not only with the for greater effi ciency and inventory control. profi tability, but also in terms of merchandise ini- I Furthering localization efforts, with seven re- Kate Spade tiatives,” Kathryn Bufano, the regional department gional merchandise managers added in August, store’s president and chief executive offi cer, told “Regional merchandise teams can be much, much closer to the demographics and can have a very big infl uence in terms of creating the assortments,” Bufano said. “Our goal is to become the hometown store provider of great fashion.” Bon-Ton is also developing productiv- ity targets by tier of stores — small, medi- um and large — and recently designated stores into subgroups like college town stores, Midwestern rural stores, those in suburban affl uent or ethnic areas or com- munities shaped by military bases. On Thursday, the York, Pa.-based re- tailer reported that net income for the fourth quarter ended Jan. 31 rose 17 per- Céline cent to $71.7 million, or $3.55 a diluted share, compared with net income of $61.3 million, or $3.04 a share in the year-ago #ICYMI: Our best Instagram period. The quarter’s results included in- moments from New York, Shourouk come of 53 cents a share associated with London, Milan and Paris. WWD. “Things just drifted away” after Bon-Ton the gain on an insurance recovery, of which about 9 purchased the 142-unit northern department stores cents was attributed to profi t recovery and 44 cents of the former Saks Inc. in 2005 and grew its store to asset recovery. Adjusted earnings before interest, base as well as its debt load and lost its way. “There taxes, depreciation and amortization were $104.3 was an erosion of the business,” Bufano said. “The million, compared with $103.7 million in the fourth company was at $3.4 billion. Now we are targeting quarter of fi scal 2013. $2.8 billion for 2015.” Comparable-store sales increased 4.3 percent in On Thursday, just after Bon-Ton reported fourth- the quarter. Increased promotional activity to drive quarter results, Bufano unveiled her turnaround traffi c as well as higher delivery expenses associat- strategy for the company, which last year lost ed with omnichannel operations resulted in a gross money. In the six months she’s been the retailer’s margin reduction of 130 basis points to 35 percent ceo, Bufano has been busy conducting focus groups, of net sales. visiting stores and learning what For the year, the company Bon-Ton’s midmarket and small- lost $7 million, or 36 cents a town customers want. diluted share, compared with “I think the economy is defi - a prior-year loss of $3.6 mil- nitely better, which is helpful. In lion, or 19 cents a share. our small-tier markets, there is a 17% Comparable-store sales in- Reem Acra Jeremy Scott better mind-set. We were running NET INCOME GROWTH FOR FOURTH creased 0.2 percent, with total behind in the fi rst three quarters, sales reaching $2.76 billion. but we really had a very strong QUARTER ENDED JAN. 31. The Bon-Ton operates 270 fourth quarter.” Middle-market stores, including nine furni- customers, Bufano said, “want more fashion. They ture galleries and four clearance centers, in 26 are looking for more style. They want more color. states in the Northeast, Midwest and upper Great Up north, they don’t like just all dark. People think Plains under the Bon-Ton, Bergner’s, Boston a small town is not fashionable, but these people Store, Carson’s, Elder-Beerman, Herberger’s and want a broader assortment.” Younkers nameplates. She said customers are just as readily shop- Apparently, investors like the shape of things ping Bon-Ton’s opening prices, comparable to Old to come. The stock rose 25 percent, or $1.18, Navy’s, as they are Michael Kors shoes, handbags to close at $5.87. In revealing the game plan, and apparel sold at Bon-Ton. Bufano, who was formerly president of Belk Inc., The moderate business has turned for the bet- said, “A signifi cant percent of our sales increase ter largely because the company orchestrated a was driven by the additional expansion of high- key-item buildup for the fourth quarter that’s ongo- er fashion brands such as Chaps, Ralph Lauren, Fendi ing. Some key classifi cations, like sweaters, T-shirts Michael Kors and Calvin Klein. We’ll continue and shorts, had “atrophied” but are being restored, with intensifi cation and rollout of these brands Bufano noted. to additional doors in 2015. We’re expanding our The ceo also cited contemporary labels such as fashion offerings in our young contemporary FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA Jessica Simpson and Hippy Laundry as performing and young men’s business to more stores as well. @ WWD.com/social well last quarter, and said the company saw a big Growth will come from vendors such as Hippie turnaround begin in denim in December. Laundry, Jessica Simpson, Democracy and TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. Bon-Ton is forecasting a comp-store sales in- Celebrity Pink.” WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. crease of 2 to 3 percent for the year, with the sec- Under Armour will be rolled out fast, with men’s, COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 209, NO. 52. FRIDAY, MARCH 13, 2015. WWD (ISSN 0149-5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays ond six months representing “a bigger opportunity” women’s and kids to all be sold at 100 doors right and holidays, with one additional issue in March, June, August, September, October, November and December, and two as merchandise initiatives kick in and some ben- off the bat. Vera Bradley will be more gradual. With additional issues in April and three additional issues in February) by Fairchild Media, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 11175 Santa Monica Blvd., 9th Floor, Los Angeles, CA 90025. Periodicals efi ts from the new fulfi llment center are seen, and private brands, “We plan to build upon the success postage paid at Los Angeles, CA, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses 2015 earnings per diluted share ranging from a loss achieved in 2014 through brand extensions like the to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, of $0.25 to earnings of $0.25. new Ruff Hewn Grey, Ruff Hewn Home Decor and P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-401-7801, or e-mail customer service at Among the turnaround objectives to be achieved special sizes in Exertek,” Bufano said. wwdPrint@cdsfulfi llment.com. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York within the next fi ve years: “The one thing I learned from Belk is that re- Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Offi ce alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected I Growing e-commerce to more than 10 percent of gional department stores can thrive and grow, address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you total volume from just over 6 percent currently. which Belk has done nicely,” Bufano said. are ever dissatisfi ed with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. We reserve the right to change the number of issues I Raising private-brand penetration to 25 percent “There’s a huge amount of loyalty and affection to- contained in a subscription term and/or the way the product is delivered. Address all editorial, business and production of total volume from 18 percent currently. Ruff ward hometown stores. People still mourn the loss correspondence to WWD, 475 Fifth Ave., 15th Floor, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656, or fax request to 212-630-5883. For reprints, please e-mail [email protected] or call Wright’s Media 877-652-5295. Hewn is the lead private brand in the stable. of Rich’s in Atlanta, Marshall Field’s in Chicago For reuse permissions, please e-mail [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. I Increasing sales per square foot from the present and Abraham & Straus in New York. We just have To subscribe to other Fairchild Media, LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. WWD IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED $122 to $145. to do a better job of differentiating who we are in MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND “Those are the targets we need to achieve to the marketplace. TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED make our company more profitable. They’re “Bigger is better, I agree. But certainly Bon-Ton TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE reasonable and achievable,” Bufano said. can get back to historic profi tability,” she added. ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. WE COVER THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY

ISSUE April 24 ISSUE June 5 ISSUE August 14

The Beauty Inc The 50 All-Time Multicultural Beauty Top 100 POWER Products Power Brokers

CLOSE March 27 CLOSE May 15 CLOSE July 24 MATERIALS April 3 MATERIALS May 22 MATERIALS July 31

ISSUE October 16 ISSUE December 11

Beauty’s Top 25 The Annual Beauty Inc Iconoclasts Awards

CLOSE September 25 CLOSE November 18 MATERIALS October 2 MATERIALS November 25

FOR MORE INFORMATION, CONTACT CARLY GRESH, BEAUTY DIRECTOR, 646.356.4705, [email protected] 4 WWD FRIDAY, MARCH 13, 2015

Alexander Maison McQueen Margiela

Lace Is More With lingerie-style dresses that fl aunted dainty trim, sheer catsuits that exposed satin briefs, and a mountain of fabric tied mummy-style into pants, designers showing during Paris Fashion Week said Je t’aime to lace.

COLLECTIONS TREND FALL 2015 WWD FRIDAY, MARCH 13, 2015 5 WWD.COM

Yohji Yamamoto Balmain Comme des Nina Ricci Garçons

Chloé Sharon Alessandra Wauchob Rich WAUCHOB PHOTO BY DOMINIQUE MAÎTRE; ALL OTHERS EXCEPT RICH BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI RICH BY DOMINIQUE MAÎTRE; ALL OTHERS EXCEPT PHOTO BY WAUCHOB 6 WWD FRIDAY, MARCH 13, 2015 WWD.COM Buyers Hope Paris Fashions Spark Rtw Sales {Continued from page one} Hudson’s Bay and Lord & Taylor. with midlengths, chunky heels and the theme. There is also a strong presence president of Neiman Marcus, could hard- “When you get to Paris, there’s not blouses. You can’t miss cropped pants, of bold color in collections from red to ly contain his enthusiasm. one clear message: You get so many T-necks, velvet, lurex, lace or shearling green, blue and pastels. This season “Once Paris kicked in, it was sensa- original options,” said Jeffrey Kalinsky, varietals,” she added. feels ideal for a woman who embraces tional,” he said, classifying the season’s executive vice president of design mer- “Designers explored the idea of what strong and diverse color, often offset By WWD STAFF fashion message as “that whole schizo- chandising at Nordstrom. “I thought it means to be empowered and strong, yet with tones of camel.” While most were phrenic style that defi ned the Seventies Chanel was spectacular. You had so many feminine and sensual,” said Brooke Jaffe, in agreement that the Paris shows of- PARIS — Something for everyone. — psychedelia, bohemia, folkloric, the choices there with one collection.” operating vice president of fashion direc- fered something for everyone, others That seemed to be Paris designers’ strategy for Victorian reference and the early emer- Kalinsky said Paris offered an array tion for women’s rtw at Bloomingdale’s. saw this as a lack of vision. fall, and it left retailers almost breathless in their gence of punk in 1976.” of compelling outerwear and rich tex- “With millions of viewers watch- Detractors included Kazuyoshi praise of the season as they lauded the city’s creativ- Collections widely lauded by retailers Minamimagoe, senior creative director ity and showmanship that trumped other fashion included Chanel, Dior, Dries Van Noten, Balenciaga Chanel Dries van Noten at Beams in Tokyo. “Generally speaking, capitals. A wide range of trends and styles stirred Givenchy, Haider Ackermann and Maison there were no outstanding new trends,” buyers’ hopes that the several-years-long drought Margiela, where John Galliano made his he said. “Luxury brands shifted their col- in women’s designer ready-to- wear sales at re- rtw debut and a return to the Paris cat- lections more toward real clothes, thus tail might fi nally be coming to an end. Karen Katz, walk after his fl ameout and conviction allowing buyers more to choose from. president and chief executive offi cer of Neiman for anti-Semitic remarks in 2011. Maison Margiela and Carven, both with Marcus Group, in reporting higher 2014 profi ts, said Valentino was also a favorite, with their new designers, will probably match Tuesday, “We believe there is going to be a reason to Ben Stiller and Owen Wilson walking the Beams clientele.” buy ready-to-wear. We feel pretty positive about the in the fi nale to announce the sequel to But this sentiment was rare. kinds of trends we are seeing.” their cult comedy “Zoolander.” “How “We’ve seen opposing ideas and dif- In trends for fall, retailers pointed to a wealth of can we not mention the Blue Steel mo- ferentiated aesthetics that coexist beau- outerwear — particularly maxi coats, capes, fur and ment?” said Downing. “This superso- tifully within collections: rough and re- bathrobe styles — along with cropped pants, tall boots phisticated collection with a supersilly fi ned, tough and romantic, dressy and or short booties, lace dresses, turtlenecks, high-neck ending. It was great.” casual, fl uid and fi tted, shiny and matte,” blouses, tunics, Mod footwear and bold earrings. “The Paris season for fall was ex- said Tomoko Ogura, senior fashion direc- “Once again, Paris was the highlight of the sea- ceptionally strong,” echoed Colleen tor at Barneys New York. son,” said Harrods fashion director Helen David. Sherin, vice president and fashion “The unexpected mixing of these el- “Paris has slowly been taking more and more of our director at Saks Fifth Avenue, adding ements and taking inspiration from dif- open-to-buy allocation, and now accounts for approxi- that “the strong American dollar is ferent decades [and] centuries and mod- mately two-thirds of our budget.” making the European collections even ernizing them for today’s audience feels “Paris has given us the strongest season out of more enticing.” fresh and exciting,” she said. all cities. In fact, it is one of the strongest seasons in Given the strong dollar, Beth Macy’s group vice president and years: Every major house has pulled out winning col- Buccini, cofounder of Kirna Zabête fashion director, global forecasting lections,” concurred Sarah Rutson, vice president of in New York, noted that her budget Nicole Fischelis liked the pairing of global buying at Net-a-porter. for Paris is up 20 percent. “We feel it romantic, feminine ruffl es and sheers Ken Downing, fashion director and senior vice for the fi rst time this season, which is with more masculine coats, as well as thrilling, because the customer is very tuxedos and high-end hippie styles. price-conscious nowadays, regardless “There are a lot of great items to capi- of how much money she has,” Buccini talize on,” she said. said, projecting sales in designer rtw Stylebop.com fashion director Leila will go up this year. Yavari predicted, “Come fall, a sumptu- “We absolutely loved Paris,” she ous dark romanticism will reign supreme. said, mentioning Valentino, Lanvin, Amidst all the drama and fi n-de-siècle Dior, Chloé, Saint Laurent and embellishment, the mood was surpris- Givenchy among highlights. “These Maison Valentino ingly upbeat — and the layering provid- shows are the reason why we come to Margiela ed plenty of wonderful options that will Paris. They’re inspirational and we do translate from runway to real life.” our best business here.” Yavari said her customers gravi- Kelly Golden, owner of Neapolitan tate toward strong statement pieces. Collection in Winnetka, Ill., said her “We hope to encourage growth in that Paris budgets will be up, too. “We are sector by investing in one-of-a-kind adding new lines, more categories from buys, of which there were plenty. current collections and, with the strong Transitional dressing is also a key mar- dollar, prices will be more attractive ket segment — and designers certainly for our clients. Our business continues addressed this with many versatile to grow and Paris is a key driver in that pieces that move seamlessly between growth,” she said. climates,” she said. Sebla Refi g Devidas, women’s buy- Jennifer Cuvillier, style director at ing director at Turkey’s Beymen, said Le Bon Marché, said the Paris season more budgets would be allocated to was strong on creativity and salability. Paris as it had scaled back somewhat “Accessories were strongly represented on pre-collections. in this season’s shows, especially jewel- “I feel more confi dent about the show ry, which had long been absent from the collections and the most positive as- catwalk, so that is a good commercial pect was that the collections were more opportunity,” she noted. down-to-earth, wearable and easy to “It’s been incredible,” said Ikram create stories,” Devidas said. “That per- Goldman, owner of Ikram in Chicago. “I fectly matches with the client who still found that in a pool of so many design- wants to spend on luxury, but wear it ers, there was a precision in each de- multiple times.” signer’s voice that we looked at. The de- New discoveries for the retailer in- signers were very clear in their message. cluded Ellery, Vanessa Seward, Kolor, This season was like a pure understand- Sacai and Pallas. ing of the story.” Charlotte Tasset, general merchan- She praised the variety of pants dise manager, women’s apparel, linge- shapes on offer. “It’s a sailor pant. It’s rie, beauty and children’s apparel at Haider Ackermann a high-waist pant. It’s a low pant. It’s a

Printemps, said her budgets were up GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY wide pant,” she said — a sentiment mir- again this season. rored by several buyers when it came to “It was a fairly dark season with tiles including velvets and brocades. “I ing live-streaming and Instagramming, skirts and dresses, too. quite a heavy atmosphere in the choice think our customer is going to have the designers need to make their viewers “We are optimistic about the autumn of colors, fabrics and silhouettes: a lot same emotional reaction to them that I dream about fashion, start a dialogue, ahead with the rich textures, feathers, of jacquard, a return of velvet, a lot of did,” he said. disrupt the norm and push everyday quilting and satin all pointing to luxuri- tweed and thick bouclette wool,” she “Overall, the fall season between dressing into the future,” said Barbara ous wardrobing of strong and rich piec- said. “Austere attitudes underlined the New York, London and Milan was lack- Atkin, vice president of fashion direc- es with an abundance of fur (or fake fur general impression,” she added, noting ing some clarity and direction, perhaps tion at Canada’s Holt Renfrew. “Paris as seen at Stella), which will increase feminine touches came in the shape of due to the amount of change at numer- succeeded by offering up purposeful desirability, and automatically raise fur, lace and embroideries. ous houses. But Paris crystallized the collections with crystal-clear concepts. ticket prices,” said Averyl Oates, com- “The overriding mood in Paris was season for us with an impressive suc- Collections were powerful, romantic, mercial director, fashion divisions at darkly feminine and very, very sexy. cession of powerful collections,” said sumptuous and bold, with a sense of Galeries Lafayette. Women love this look. Whether it be neo- Linda Fargo, senior vice president and freedom as women are now in control of “The bohemian look will continue grunge or a romantic Victoriana vibe, fashion and store presentation director their individual self expression.” from spring into fall, but she will be there are so many new items for all our at Bergdorf Goodman. Natalie Kingham, buying direc- much more luxurious. The haute bo- customers to embrace and drive sales. “There was a lot of diversity of vi- tor for Matchesfashion.com, said “the hemian will reign, adorned with suede Black is back, what can be easier than sion, there were also enough unifying mood of the season is a woman un- and silk fringes, beautiful embroideries that?” said Suzanne Timmins, senior specifi c trends, such as the curiosity in done with raw edges, different to the and elaborate macramés,” summed up vice president and fashion director at gender-blending, dips into the Seventies bohemian trend that is also a strong Golden of Neapolitan Collection. WWD friday, march 13, 2015 7 WWD.COM

grance, color and eventually, hopefully, skin care. it’s very much like design- ing a collection — it’s just a different beauty medium. it’s about materials, it’s about creating a certain spirit, assembling the elements, putting them together, and opening up a dialogue. What i love Jacobs Talks Scents, Fashion about fashion, accessories and beauty, is that they’re part of a ritual which is about doing new things and projects,” such a luxury, and a luxury that i think By JULie NaUGHToN he said. “When fragrances first started, i women — at least all the women i know was superexcited about being able to do — enjoy, making those choices and en- WHiLe He LiKes to break new it, and i thought, ‘Well, we’ll see how it joying that ritual in the morning, decid- ground, marc Jacobs is including a bit goes. if it works, then we’ll do more, and ing what you’re going to wear and how of his past in the launch of his newest if it doesn’t, we’ll try again to do some- you’re going to present yourself. That’s fragrance, mod Noir. thing else.’ The best test is the customer.” olfactive as well as visual.” The scent, which is exclusive to free- The customer, by the way, may soon be Jacobs also isn’t afraid to deviate from standing sephora doors in the U.s. and able to purchase shares of the designer’s the norm, as he proved when he signed Jacobs’ own boutiques in June and glob- stock; it has been rumored, but not con- sixtysomething actress Jessica Lange ally in July, is based around gardenias, the firmed, that Jacobs is eyeing an initial as the face of his color cosmetics collec- bloom that was the focus of the very first public offering. tion in the spring of 2014. “i’m a big fan fragrance Jacobs did with former fragrance The new floral interpretation, which The brand visual. of hers, and i always have been,” he said. licensee LVmH more than a decade ago. Jacobs created with Jean-Claude Delville which will be used in-store and digital- “i felt that it was really necessary, early Coty, Jacobs’ current licensee, acquired the at symrise, has lush green top notes, ly, and that a comprehensive sampling on with the beauty, to establish that you license from LVmH in may 2003. a heart of gardenia and a drydown of campaign is also planned. While neither should come to expect what you don’t ex- Despite being immersed in the scent creamy musks, and the fragrance’s pack- Jacobs nor singer would discuss num- pect, not to get into kind of a formula. so business for more than 10 years, Jacobs aging also gives a tip of the hat to the bers, industry sources estimated that the [we decided] to go from edie [Campbell, said the perfume business never gets old retailer in which it will be sold — mod scent could do $10 million at retail in the who was featured in the previous cam- for him. “every time i go to an airport or Noir’s bottle is in graphic black-and- U.s. in its first year on counter. paign] with a very heavy, very glamorous open a magazine [and see one], i think, white, sephora’s signature colors. The designer is equally as enthusi- beauty look to Jessica, just a beautiful ‘Wow, i’m a real designer. i have a per- eaux de parfum in two sizes will be astic about the color cosmetics collec- woman who is somebody very, very differ- fume,’” he told WWD. offered: 1 oz. for $70 and 1.7 oz. for $90, tion he’s created with Kendo, sephora’s ent and extraordinarily beautiful and tal- in fact, Jacobs admits to being sur- as well as a $28 rollerball, noted Lori product arm. The line launched in ented. it wasn’t about doing an age thing prised by the number of fragrances he singer, group vice president of global august 2013. “[Color] runs parallel to or anything like that. it’s just me trust- has. “i have the same basic attitude to- marketing at Coty inc. singer added that the fragrance experience,” he said. ing my instincts. Beauty comes in many ward everything — i get very excited Raymond meier shot the brand visuals, “The idea of beauty, for me, is fra- shapes and forms and sizes and ages.” David Beckham’s Fragrant Decade L’Oréal USA, Powa During the event, Beckham — By NiNa JoNes who was sporting a beard and a Ink Partnership slim-fitting dark suit — also chatted L’ oRéaL Usa aND Powa Technologies have a maze of mirrors, a about his ever-changing style, and formed a strategic partnership intended to mediterranean garden and a his children’s rising fashion-plate drive sales with a high-tech mobile program. meditation session were all status. His eldest son, Brooklyn, Powa Technologies, a U.K.-based part of the immersive experi- has even taken to helping himself commerce firm, creates technologies ence that Coty inc. and David to clothes from his father’s closet, intended to simplify purchasing and Beckham created for the Beckham admitted. “i had a pair of enhance consumer loyalty to the brand. press launch of Beckham’s saint Laurent leather trousers that The technology L’oréal will be using is instinct Gold edition fra- i’d never worn, and Brooklyn found the company’s flagship product, a mobile grance at a London events them and wore them — they were platform called PowaTag that is intended space Thursday. my trousers and they’re definitely to transform any consumer touchpoint The fragrance marks not anymore,” he said. and he noted — from bricks-and-mortar, print and Beckham’s 10th anniversary that his four children’s senses of TV advertising to social media — into of working with Coty, a span style is “all themselves” — even his a platform for mobile transactions and that began with the former three-year-old daughter Harper’s. promotions on customers’ smartphones. soccer player launching the “We let them make their own deci- Dan Wagner, chief executive officer and original instinct in 2005. since ’’ sions in what they wear,” he said. founder of PowaTechologies, noted the then, Beckham’s fragranc- “Harper’s wearing Victoria’s heels technology will interact with print and es have gone on to become every single day. she’ll literally walk electronic advertising and will enable the best-performing celeb- into the house and put her ballerina instant purchases through PowaTag both rity brand in Coty’s portfolio, outfit on and a pair of heels — but on smartphones and desktop computers. which includes fragrances she’s very funny, because she always The company is reportedly also using the by Beyoncé, Katy Perry and puts the boys’ football boots on as technology with such corporate giants as Jennifer Lopez. “it was the well,” he said. “i think it’s impor- Reebok, adidas and Carrefour. goal at the start.…i wanted to tant that children have their own “PowaTag provides a way for consum- be part of something that in ideas on style and individuality,” ers to deepen their engagement with their 10 years’ time, we could look he said, noting that he predicts his favorite brands,” Wagner said. “Being back on and [it would]…not be son Romeo will take on his mantle one of the world’s largest advertisers, the perceived as old-fashioned,” as a style icon. But Beckham was possibilities of what can be achieved for said Beckham, who held a happy to admit his own fashion re- L’ oréal through a smartphone are end- question-and-answer session cord isn’t perfect. “i do look back less. mobile devices have become the go-to in a room done up to resemble and think, ‘What was i thinking?’ method for people to explore and connect his own stylish study (the event But at the time it was great — or i with brands and PowaTag is rapidly be- was designed to mimic the sen- thought it was great,” he said with coming the standard for the world’s lead- sory “journey” of creating the a grin. The fragrance will be priced ing companies.” The company, founded in fragrance.) Yaël Tuil-Torres, I think it’s important that at 26.50 pounds, or around $40. The 2007, aims to “remove the final barriers to vice president of global mar- limited edition — which Tuil-Torres instant global transactions through a revo- keting, celebrities and fashion children have their own ideas said is designed as a collectors’ lutionary instant mobile payment technol- division at Coty, said over the item — will be sold solely as a 50- ogy, the first fully integrated tablet osP past 10 years, instinct has sold ml. eau de toilette. it will launch at platform, and advanced cloud-based e- more than 10 million bottles. on style and individuality. department stores and pharmacies commerce solutions,” he noted. Before be- Together with the original in europe, australia, the far east ginning Powa Technologies, Wagner found- instinct, there have so far — david beckham and south africa this month and ed online information database Dialog, been seven editions of the remain on counters through June. and Venda Ltd., said to be the world’s larg- fragrance, with instinct Gold edition oil, patchouli and vetiver. “You want to While Coty declined to provide sales es- est provider of on-demand e-commerce. the eighth. “With each fragrance, we’ve give people something that they feel is timates for the fragrance, industry sourc- marie Gulin-merle, chief marketing put something in that means something new and modern, but also with that time- es predict that the limited edition could officer for L’oréal Usa, noted her com- to me — the notes that i like, the smells less effect,” Beckham said. massenet generate $4 million in retail sales while pany has an “unrelenting drive to inno- that i like,” said Beckham. pointed out that while bergamot, vetiver it’s on counter. vate for our customers.” The fragrance, created by perfum- and cardamom were notes in the origi- following the Gold edition launch, “Through this exciting partnership er aliénor massenet of international nal instinct, the Gold edition is more Coty is working with Beckham on what with Powatag, we see a new way to merge flavors & fragrances, combines top “aromatic” and “deeper.” “in the Gold Tuil-Torres called a new “blockbuster” the online and off-line worlds of our cus- notes of lemon oil, bergamot oil and basil [edition], you have a bit more contrast fragrance, that’s set to bow in august or tomers, adding value to their lives and grand vert; a heart of cardamom LmR, and sensuality,” said massenet. The new september. While instinct Gold edition bringing ease and convenience to their Juniper berry oil LmR and rosemary edition is also in a gold lacquered ver- won’t launch in the U.s., the upcoming mobile shopping experiences,” said oil LmR and base notes of cedarwood sion of instinct’s flasklike bottle.’’major launch will be sold there. Gulin-merle. — J.N. 8 WWD FRIDAY, MARCH 13, 2015 WWD.COM ‘A Real Guy’ for Kenneth Cole reflect his journey and beauty By JAYME CYK his life as a dad and as a veteran. Consumers today AUTHENTICITY HAS in- really see and feel the dif- creasingly won the heart ference of a truly authen- Revlon Sales Jump 30.2% of consumers. Between tic campaign.” beauty vloggers’ product Priced at $72 and cent to $115.6 million in the consumer critiques and celebri- launching in April at By MOLLY PRIOR business and more than tripled, to $16.3 ties investing in brands Macy’s, Dillard’s, Belk, Bon- million, in the professional group. Sales because they truly love Ton Stores, Kenneth Cole LORENZO DELPANI said he is seeing from Colomer’s retail brands are includ- them, shoppers are at- stores and kennethcole. early signs that the repositioning of ed in the consumer segment while those tracted to companies that com, Mankind Ultimate both the Revlon and Almay brands is sold in professional channels are attrib- deliver legitimacy. blends citrus accord with beginning to work. uted to the professional segment. For the first time, cucumber, a heart of cash- Delpani, Revlon’s president and chief While it’s early into both the Revlon Kenneth Cole and his fra- mere wood and vetiver root executive offi cer, noted that the launch of and Almay repositioning efforts, grance licensee Parlux with a base of sandalwood, Revlon’s “Love Is On” campaign in late Delpani said he was encouraged by has tapped a “real guy” oak, moss, tonka crystals 2014, followed by this year’s introduction initial market results. to star in its newest and musk. of Almay’s new tag line Simply American The company’s stepped up marketing campaign for Mankind “When I met Kenneth The Mankind Ultimate campaign. are part of the company’s efforts to battle spending in 2014 by $38.1 million, repre- Ultimate, a limited-edi- Cole, he asked what I for lost market share and grow the com- senting a 10.8 percent increase over the tion scent that represents the modern man wanted to leave as my legacy,” Galloway pany’s top and bottom lines. prior year. Asked how he gauges success, — driven, persistent and compassionate. said. “I mentioned whatever I could to During the fi rm’s earnings with Wall he said, “I like to rely on a very simple Cole met 33-year-old Alabama-based make sure my family was taken care of and Street analysts call on Thursday, Revlon measure: Are we growing market share?” Noah Galloway, a war veteran, double- that I left them something to be proud of.” Delpani referred to 2014 as a year of At the same time, the company will amputee, personal trainer and motiva- Galloway’s family has more than one “signifi cant change and transformation.” continue to focus on “fewer, better” tional speaker, when he won the search reason to be proud of him. Besides scor- “We integrated [The Colomer Group] product launches, as well as “fewer, for the Ultimate Men’s Health Guy. ing the campaign, Galloway will appear into the company and delivered the ex- better” people, Delpani said. “We want “I wanted to help tell the story of this on the next season of “Dancing with the pected synergies and related cost reduc- people who are achievers.” remarkable man,” Cole said. “Despite his Stars,” premiering on Monday. tions,” he said. “We Delpani said the personal obstacles, he remains both phys- “I have no dance experience at all,” he ad- redesigned our orga- company has ex- ically and mentally fi t.” mitted. “[My dance partner Sharna Burgess] nization and signifi- tended the Love Is The campaign, which will run in Men’s tells me the type of dance we’re doing and cantly increased our On campaign to its Health’s April issue coinciding with the I’m like, ‘I don’t know what that means or investment to build corporate culture, but annual search for the Ultimate Men’s what you just said.’ But if I dance well, it’s all and support our key % clarifi ed that “corpo- Health Guy, illuminates Galloway’s jour- credited to Sharna and I told her if I do bad, 32.3 rate love” is not inter- ney with a black-and-white collage. then I’ll blame her. No, I’m just kidding.” brands. We launched REVLON’S ADJUSTED EARNINGS rate love” is not inter- our Revlon Love personal or uncondi- “We really wanted Mankind Ultimate to Although executives wouldn’t talk fi nan- FOR 2014. Is On campaign in tional. It does speak push the limits of traditional advertising,” cials, industry sources estimate that Mankind November 2014 and to the organization’s said Angela Budd, global vice president of Ultimate could do $8 million to $10 million at our Almay Simply American Campaign core beliefs, such as the desire to win, marketing at Parlux Ltd. “Those images retail during its limited-edition run. in January 2015. Thanks to our strategy celebrate talent and promote diversity. of value creation and the integration For the year, net income was $40.9 synergies, our 2014 financial perfor- million, or 78 cents a diluted share, com- mance was the best in many years.” pared with a loss of $5.8 million, or 11 In the fourth quarter ended Dec. 31, cents, in the year-ago period. Adjusted Shiseido Gains Lutens Trademark Revlon reported net income of $2.7 mil- earnings before interest, taxes, deprecia- SHISEIDO CO. LTD. of Tokyo has acquired makeup and created packaging. In 1982, lion, or 5 cents a diluted share, com- tion and amortization rose 32.3 percent to the trademark of Serge Lutens’ fragrance and he was commissioned by the company to pared with a loss of 33.1 million, or 63 $375.2 million from $283.7 million. color cosmetics brand, according to Carsten create Nombre Noir. cents a share, in the prior-year period. Sales for the year gained 30.2 per- Fischer, corporate senior executive officer In 2000, Lutens created his own company, Adjusted earnings before interest, cent to $1.94 billion, compared with of Shiseido. The Asian beauty giant was ex- Parfums-Beauty Serge Lutens. Shiseido has taxes, depreciation and amortization $1.49 billion the prior year, boosted by pected to have disclosed the deal in a press acted as the distributor. rose 18.2 percent to $108.7 million from the acquisition of TCG in October 2013. release issued this morning, Tokyo time. According to market sources, Shiseido is $92 million. On a pro forma basis — in which Lutens will remain head of the brand, which considering plans to give the prominent brand Total company net sales for the pe- Colomer was accounted for as it had been had been distributed by Shiseido. more of a lifestyle positioning. Shiseido does riod gained 1.9 percent to $501 million part of Revlon one year ago — and ex- The iconoclastic image maker, pho- not break out sales projections, but industry from $491 million. Its consumer seg- cluding the impact of foreign currency, the tographer and product developer has sources indicate that Shiseido could more ment’s sales fell 1.8 percent to $383.3 company said sales gained 4.7 percent. been a pioneer in the now-budding ar- than double the size of the business in 10 million in the quarter while the profes- Delpani reiterated that integration tisanal, niche fragrance movement. His years. Sales are now estimated at more than sional segment of the business recorded of Colomer was on track to deliver an- relationship with Shiseido started in $15 million at retail. a 17.1 percent sales increase to $117.7 nualized cost reduction of $30 million 1980 when he was hired to create an “I am happy that we can bring our coop- million. Segment profi t was up 8 per- to $35 million by the end of 2015. international image for the company, eration with Serge Lutens to a new stage. The which was then little-known outside of creativity and the style of the brand are un- Japan. He shot advertising, designed matched,” said Fischer. — PETE BORN Ulta Hits $1B in Revenues ULTA BEAUTY reached and surpassed She noted that Ulta’s loyalty program $1 billion in quarterly sales for the had grown to reach 15 million active Surratt Gears Up for Growth first time, capping off a stellar year in members by the end of the fourth quarter. TROY SURRATT’S pre- nation with Japanese beauty which profits surged nearly 27 percent. Its store base continued to grow. occupation with the de- products, the line includes “Our best comparable sales increase During the quarter, Ulta added 10 doors, tails is paying off. a system of shapes that of the year was driven by accelerating and closed one, to end the three-month The makeup artist — allows women to create traffi c growth, continued strength in period with 774 stores, which translated who is often called “beau- personalized palettes, prestige and mass color cosmetics, a to a 14 percent increase in square foot- ty otaku” (or someone along with items such successful holiday selling season, exe- age compared with the year-ago period. with an obsessive in- as Smoky Eye Baton and cution of more effective marketing and The company also announced sev- terest in makeup) when Autographique Liner. CRM strategies, a double-digit comp in eral executive changes. Dillon said traveling in Japan to tend “Women have really re- our salon business, and a 55 percent Janet Taake, chief merchandising of- to the creation of his name- sponded to the customiza- comparable sales increase in our e- fi cer of Ulta, plans to retire after six sake collection Surratt — is tion aspect of the line,” said commerce business,” said Mary Dillon, years at the company, effective May 1. gearing up for growth. Surratt. He has already ex- Some of the products. Ulta’s chief executive offi cer, during the She and her team are credited with Surratt will soon expand panded shade ranges across company’s fourth-quarter earnings call adding 100 major brands to Ulta’s as- the cosmetics brand to Sephora, Net-a-porter, certain items, and there’s also a new com- on Thursday evening. sortment, according to Dillon. David Harrods in London and Mecca in Australia. plexion product slated for fall. The Bolingbrook, Ill.-based retail- Kimbell, Ulta’s current chief market- The line will launch on sephora.com Heleyne Tamir, chief executive offi cer of er said its net income in the quarter ing offi cer, will assume merchandising on March 17, and then on April 20 roll out Surratt, said, “In our fi rst year, sales have gained 23.5 percent to $87.3 million, or in the newly created role of chief mer- to 27 Sephora doors with plans to end the exceeded all forecasts. Our initial launch at $1.35 a diluted share from $70.7 million, chandising and marketing offi cer. year in 40 doors. Sephora will house the Barneys resulted in immediate sell-outs of or 1.09 cents, in the year-ago period. For the year, net income gained 26.8 collection along two three-foot gondolas. products and our opening at Liberty is said Sales for the three months ended Jan. percent to $257.1 million, or $3.98 a dilut- “Sephora is the vortex of beauty and to have been their most successful color 31 gained 20.7 percent to $1.05 billion ed share, compared with $202.8 million, makeup. It’s a candy store where you can launch to date. This coupled with consumer from $868.1 million. Comparable sales or $3.15 a share. Sales increased 21.4 per- lose yourself,” said Surratt. The line is excitement over the new Artistique Brush increased 11.1 percent, driven by 7.7 cent to $3.24 billion from $2.67 billion. also slated to launch at Net-a-porter and collection has propelled the numbers. With percent growth in transactions and 3.4 The company said it plans to achieve Harrods at the end of March, and at Mecca the new strategic retail partnerships in percent growth in average ticket size. comparable-store growth of approxi- in July. It is currently sold at Barneys New place for 2015, we anticipate growth of ten Dillon named IT Cosmetics, Tarte, mately 6 to 8 percent, including its e- York and Liberty in London. times our current sales volume.” Urban Decay and Too Faced among the commerce business; increase total sales After spending four years on research As for how Surratt maps out its retail top performers in its prestige business, in the midteens percentage range and and development, Surratt launched a sizable distribution strategy, the makeup artist said with NYX and lip products driving expand square footage by 13 percent with collection of 106 items at Barneys New York he asks a simple question, “Is it a place mass sales. the opening of 100 net new doors. — M.P. in October 2013. Inspired by Surratt’s fasci- that I would like to shop myself?”— M.P. Honoring 6 Future Leaders who are Making their Mark in Beauty BEAUTY’S BEAUTY’S Selected by CEW Board Members, these Honorees will be recognized for their impressive performance, leadership potential and the impact they’re making on their companies and the industry. TALENT TALENT AWARDS Keynote Address:AWARDS ELANA DRELL SZYFER, CEO, Laura Geller Beauty

HONOREES

WEDNESDAY APRIL 15, 2015 8 - 10AM BEAUTY’S BEAUTY’S CLAIRE FERMONT The Union League Club JENINE GUERRIERO ALTHEA KNIGHT LANGLAIS Givaudan  e Estée Lauder Coty Companies, Inc. RESERVE YOUR TABLESTALEN AND T TALENT AWARDS TICKETSAWARDS NOW CEW.ORG HELEN MURPHY AMY WHANG MIRIAM WHIPPEN International Flavors L’Oréal Paris Clarins & Fragrances, Inc.

@CEWinsider l #CEWTopTalent BEAUTY’S BEAUTY’S BEAUTY’S

SPONSORS:

TALENT TALENT TALENT AWARDS AWARDS AWARDS 10 WWD FRIDAY, MARCH 13, 2015

The Platos Atlantis gallery at “Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty.” said, adding the London-themed room in particular stood out because of the eye “rawness, spontaneity, lack of self- consciousness and modernity” of the looks on display. During a walk-through of the Cabinet of Curiosities, Nadja Swarovski, whose company sponsored the show, discussed how McQueen operated on another plane. Pointing to a crystal mesh top with an executioner’s-style hood, she recalled how the garment came to be. “We could never fi gure out what to do with crystal mesh, which comes in sheets like fabric,” said Swarovski, whose family company had created it in 1993. “People would use it for handbag trimming. But he asked for fi ve sheets of it, and that’s what he did,” she said of the top. “Crystals were never an afterthought with him.” McQueen would go on to work with crystal mesh for skirts, dresses and other pieces and Swarovski said that once McQueen got going with it, everyone wanted to use it. “We couldn’t produce enough of it — that was a phenomenon ‘Savage we had never experienced before.” As with the Met, the show is molded around McQueen’s dark — and exciting — preoccupations over the years: The Beauty’ ‘Savage Beauty’ Reborn Victorian Gothic tradition; death ever- lurking; nature in all its splendor, horror

LONDON IS POISED for six months of Reborn magical thinking with a fresh take on the “Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty” exhibition set to open this weekend at the Victoria and Albert Museum. The show is a window into the restless, labyrinthine mind of the late designer, who considered London not only his home, but also his fountainhead of inspiration. “Alexander was a London boy, and what can I say? He’s back in town,” said Philip Treacy, whose dramatic creations feature in the exhibition. Treacy was among a crowd that included Sarah Burton, Kate Moss, Stella Tennant, Erdem Moralioglu, and David and Victoria Beckham, who gathered at the V&A on Thursday night to celebrate the opening of the show. Asked to compare the London show with the The Romantic Gothic gallery. The Romantic Nationalism gallery. one at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art in 2011, Treacy said London offered a more heightened experience. had oxidized. Now I think it even has It opens with an homage to McQueen’s and decay; his own Scottish heritage, and Burton said she was reluctant to gotten moldy,” she said. London, featuring looks from his mid- parallel worlds in the past and future. attend the press view for fear she’d “Savage Beauty” is the biggest and Nineties shows — the slashed leather The journey is wondrous, sinister, burst into tears. “I’m terrible. I would most ambitious fashion exhibition ever pieces, dresses made from corroded lace, and otherworldly, and the only real have been in bits. Lee lived London, and staged by the V&A — the archives of which and ones bearing tapestry fl owers that drawbacks are the sometimes hard-to- this show feels really personal, really McQueen would plunder for research and bleed into streaks of paint. Next door, read captions at the foot of the displays, intimate,” the designer said. inspiration. “It’s the sort of place I’d like there’s a short, saucy frock coat with tulle and the discreetly laid-out descriptions Tennant talked about the impact of to be shut in overnight,” he once said. The underskirts from his 1992 master of arts of each room’s theme. Visitors would do wearing McQueen. “The clothes make you show has already been extended by two graduate collection, and a deconstructed, well to study up beforehand on McQueen, feel indominable. There’s a soft side to them, weeks, with 70,000 tickets sold. kimono-style dress that McQueen would or ignore the captions altogether and too, but the feeling you have is one of power.” While it may follow the template of use to dress up one of the limited-edition allow the clothes to work their magic. Katie Grand opted to leave her sole the original one staged at the Met, the gold cards he designed for American — SAMANTHA CONTI McQueen piece in storage. It was a V&A production is bigger, more polished Express, one of his earliest sponsors, and jacket she swiped from the designer’s and with greater emphasis on McQueen’s a supporter of the V&A show. • • • home in Essex, England, after traveling native city. “It is all about coming home,” There is a lineup of bumster skirts to visit him with Isabella Blow. “It had said Martin Roth, the museum’s director. and trousers — inspired by the looks MCQUEEN MARK II: Alongside the Victoria been buried underground and the color “My fi rst thought when I saw the show at McQueen witnessed on the streets of & Albert Museum exhibit, London’s Tate the Met was: ‘McQueen has his city — and a host of tailored pieces Britain is also paying homage to the to come home.’” highlighting his training on Savile late designer. Tuesday saw the opening The retrospective, Row, fi rst as a teenage apprentice for of “Nick Waplington/Alexander McQueen: which opens to the Anderson & Sheppard and later for Working Process” at the gallery, which public on Saturday Gieves and Hawkes. “Everything I do showcases more than 130 photographs and runs until is based in tailoring,” reads one of by Waplington that chart McQueen’s Aug. 2, features 66 the many McQueen quotes that run process of creating his fall 2009 additional garments alongside the displays. collection, “The Horn of Plenty.” and accessories — The Cabinet of Curiosities, which Waplington’s images chronicle what including a sculpted features accessories by jeweler Shaun the gallery describes as McQueen’s white feather gown Leane and milliner Treacy, longtime “intense and theatrical working from the Horn of McQueen collaborators, is twice the size process,” following the collection Plenty show; a blood of the one at the Met. It’s housed in a from the designer’s fi rst sketches to red ballet dress double-height gallery and interspersed the Paris runway show. Waplington, from The Girl Who with fi lm footage of nearly all of the whose subjects have in the past run Lived in the Tree, designer’s shows. from families living in the West Bank and early pieces Meanwhile, the ghostly hologram to the British post-punk movement, has from the wardrobes of Kate Moss, the woman in white silk contrasted the images from McQueen’s of old friends and organza, is bigger this time around. studio with images from landfi ll sites colleagues including “In New York, we had her the size shot around east London, where both Annabelle Neilson, Katy of Tinkerbell, while here, she’s much he and the designer lived, highlighting England, Aimee Whitton bigger — child size,” said Andrew Bolton, what the gallery called the “raw and and Janet Fischgrund. who created the original show with unpolished side of the fashion world.” the support of Harold Koda, and was Before McQueen’s death in 2010, he and consultant curator of this one, working Waplington had together created a photo FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE alongside the main curator Claire Wilcox. book of the images, called “Alexander The Met show had been produced “on McQueen: Working Process,” which François-Henri Pinault WWD.com/eye. the fl y, in nine months, so there were was published by Damiani in 2013. The and Salma Hayek some chinks in the armor. Here, the exhibition runs until May 17.

Jamie Hince and Kate Moss creases have all been ironed out,” he — VIVIANA ATTARD TIM JENKINS AND MOSS PHOTOS BY PINAULT 2.5x7 (right)

WWD FRIDAY, MARCH 13, 2015 11 WWD.COM

campaign for the capsule collection, POOL TIME: Los Angeles-based couldn’t wait to try on the colorful retro contemporary brand Lovers + Friends, STOP HERE!!! styles again. “Any chance to get them cofounded in 2011 by Raissa Gerona and FASHION SCOOPS on, I will,” said the model, who has a Mitch Moseley, is branching out with KEEPING COZY: Cooper & Ella, preference for outsize swimwear for spring. the contemporary brand eyewear. “It’s important “It felt like the most launched by Kara Mendelsohn FRESH SIGHT: Victoria Beckham is placing A spokeswoman declined to specify to have some color in life, Lovers + natural new category in 2013 known for its colorful, new emphasis on her sunglasses other factories that Beckham has begun and these sunglasses do Friends to add to Lovers + accessibly priced tops and collection. The designer, who launched working with this season but said they just that.” will unveil Friends,” Gerona said of dresses, will add a capsule eyewear in 2009, has enlisted a fresh are all located in Italy’s Valdobbiadene Also spotted at the swimwear the launch. “We wanted collection of knitwear to its roster of manufacturers to help “spice” region. Further details will be unveiled cocktail party were Kris for spring. the swim collection to repertoire for fall. Mendelsohn up her collections. The collection was when Beckham’s new collection Jenner, Caroline Vreeland, be an extension of our said that buyers had been previously manufactured in partnership launches at eyewear trade show Silmo Louis-Marie de Castelbajac, main line by including encouraging her to expand the with Cutler and Gross. She will continue Paris in September. Silvia Fendi’s youngest vibrant prints, crochet line. “I designed [the knits] to use their services along with a bevy — MISTY WHITE SIDDELL daughter Leonetta Fendi, and lace textiles and around things that I knew of other “specialists,” including lens Miroslava Duma, South sexy bodies for every were trending, like lace and SPANX TO SPADE: Jan Singer, chief Korean model Irene girl.” The 16 looks, metallics,” she said. “They executive officer of Spanx, has been Kim, the music duo which include one- make sense with the rest Victoria Beckham nominated to the board of Kate Spade. comprising AaRON, Helena pieces and bandeau, of the collection.…We offer will launch a The company said Thursday that Bernard Bordon and blogger halter and triangle something special, not basic.” capsule aviator-style W. Aronson and Kay Koplovitz will not be Kristina Bazan. bikini styles, come The five sweater styles, offered sunglass collection. standing for re-election at the company’s When it came to in colorful striped, in black and white, range from 2015 annual shareholders’ meeting the collaboration with tropical and python $225 to $250 and will hit stores on May 19, when Singer will stand for Fendi, his fi rst, Lasry prints. Ranging from $62 like Saks Fifth Avenue and election. Prior to being named ceo of dove deep. He scoured to $160, the collection Bloomingdale’s as well as the Spanx last July, Singer was with Nike some 20,000 images hits retail next month brand’s e-commerce site in as corporate vice president of global from the company’s archives going on the brand’s e-commerce site as well September. As with the rest of apparel and corporate vice president back to 1966, looking not just at runway as Revolveclothing.com. the Cooper + Ella collection, a of global footwear. Earlier, she was vice photos, but Karl Lagerfeld’s old mood — KRISTI GARCED hot, nutritious meal is provided producer Zeiss. “It was important for president and general manager of global boards, as well. His concept was to to a child in need with every me to evolve existing styles and develop product, merchandising and marketing “bring art to the sunglasses because FRAGRANCE BUFF: Responsible sweater sold. new pieces for my retail partners and my for Reebok International Ltd.’s women’s Fendi is very linked to art,” according for fragrances like Estée Lauder — K.G. own store and Web site and we now have business. She has also held key the designer, who set about to custom- Pleasures for Women, Ralph Lauren the ability to do this,” Beckham said. marketing and global communications making patterns. Patterns are Lasry’s Safari for Men and Tommy by Tommy “For me, it is about the line continuing roles at Chanel, Calvin Klein and Prada. trademark, and he developed two Hilfiger, Annie Buzantian, master to expand and incorporating the best — LISA LOCKWOOD different motifs in two silhouettes, perfumer at Firmenich will be materials and techniques possible. It is working alongside Silvia Fendi. honored as the perfumer of the year at an exciting time for the category.” STRIKE A POSE: It was a snap-happy Contrasting colors are also The Fragrance Foundation Awards on Beckham will debut her new frenzy at Fendi’s Avenue Montaigne Lasry’s specialty, and for the Fendi June 17 at Alice Tully Hall at Lincoln manufacturing initiatives with a capsule store in Paris Monday evening as the shades he combined navy blue, Center. Along with Carlos Benaim of collection of colorfully lensed aviator label gathered fur-clad fans to celebrate burgundy and yellow. International Flavors and Fragrances styles that incorporate Zeiss’ handiwork. its sunglasses collaboration with Thierry The designer is already developing and Alberto Morillas of Firmenich, They will exclusively retail at Barneys Lasry, complete with a Twitter Mirror styles for spring 2016 for the Fendi and Buzantian is the third perfumer to New York for $550 for basic styles up to for maximum social-media impact. Thierry Lasry collection. receive this award. $1,255 for aviators laden in 18-karat gold. Anna Cleveland, who appears in the ad — ROXANNE ROBINSON AND ALEX WYNNE — JAYME CYK MEMO PAD SECRET SERVICE: The fourth episode of Dior’s “Secret Garden” video series is slated to feature Rihanna. The fi lm and print campaign, shot this week by Steven Klein in Versailles, is scheduled to run this spring, Dior told WWD exclusively. The third installment has logged more than nine million views on Dior’s offi cial YouTube channel, showcasing a trio of models whisking through the chateau and its vast grounds wearing an array of the French house’s fashions and leather goods. Rihanna will appear in the fourth — MILES SOCHA episode of Dior’s “Secret Garden.”

CRESSIDA’S DANCE: Mulberry launches the JONES KATIE PHOTO BY fi rst of three short fi lms in its new digital was improvised because the music just stories series today, a dance project makes you want to dance naturally,” featuring British actress-model-aristocrat said Bonas, who trained at the Trinity Cressida Bonas. To celebrate the brand’s Laban Dance Conservatoire in London, spring collection, which, per tradition, and will make her feature fi lm debut was inspired by an English garden, set in “Tulip Fever” later this year. Bonas, designer Michael Howells, choreographer the former girlfriend of Prince Harry, is Martin Joyce and up-and-coming director the youngest daughter of Lady Mary-Gaye Ivana Bobic concocted a magical world Curzon and has acted in several plays in inside an 18th-century Clerkenwell London’s West End. courthouse with copious amounts of grass, “Cressida is such a natural on sunlight and mirrors. Set to ESG’s catchy camera, and I always like to leave “Dance” track, Bonas enters the house a little room for improvisation with REACH THE any project,” Bobic said. The Cressida Bonas will appear in writer-director, who studied Mulberry’s digital stories series. at Central Saint Martins and FASHION INDUSTRY’S is working on an improvised thriller feature, said she’s embracing the digital world TOP TALENT as a forum for exposure. “It’s amazing how many people around the world can see your work, although I am still a fan of old-fashioned fi lm.” British actor Freddie Fox also has a cameo in the short, although he conceded, “Cres is the real star.” Although PHOTO BY UZO OLEH/COURTESY OF MULBERRY UZO OLEH/COURTESY PHOTO BY Bonas says she’s not much of a WWD CAREERS.COM wearing the Buttercup dress, and begins clotheshorse as she prefers long skirts PRINT & ONLINE PACKAGES AVAILABLE grooving her way up the stairs and into a and trainers, she is a fan of Mulberry’s mirrored room containing a handbag. handbags and offered, “I’d wear some Contact Tiffany Windju at 310.484.2537 or [email protected] “It was so much fun. I had a of their longer dresses with trainers.” choreographed routine, but a lot of it — MARCY MEDINA 12 WWD FRIDAY, MARCH 13, 2015 Reed Krakoff Suspends Business, Seeks Investor {Continued from page one} In 2012, Krakoff received the During this time, Krakoff looking at secondary locations.” formerly president and chief Reed award for Accessory Designer amassed a substantial celeb- At the time, he said a Paris executive offi cer of A|X Armani Krakoff of the Year from the Council of rity following, with fans includ- location would open the follow- Exchange, as ceo. Fashion Designers of America ing Julianne Moore, Allison ing month, but it has yet to do Krakoff hinted at restructur- for his own brand. “The idea Williams and Kyra Sedgwick, so. In the past, Krakoff has also ing at the opening of his Greene is really about a new luxury who frequently sat front row at publicly alluded to plans for a Street store during New York which can mean a lot of different his runway shows. Arguably the Washington, D.C., store, which Fashion Week in February. things, but to me is always some- most notable of his followers was never materialized. Rather than hold a runway thing that’s about a combination First Lady Michelle Obama, who Beyond the fashion world, show or presentation, he said he of design credibility, materials wore the designer on several Krakoff is widely known for his would no longer be launching and construction,” he told WWD high-profile occasions, includ- interest in the art world. In 2012, new designs in the typical in- that August in speaking of his ing on the cover of Vogue, in her he created an installation of 99 dustry format. He added that a company, adding: “The luxury second offi cial White House por- chairs, titled “Reed Krakoff: One secondary brand concept was in market is really competitive, and trait and at her husband’s sec- Chair” at Salon 94 in New York; the works and that his current you’re competing on design and ond swearing-in ceremony. in 2013, “Women in Art: Figures ready-to-wear model and brand desire. That’s it. You really need But all the while, Krakoff ’s of Infl uence,” a coffee-table book ethos were under review. to create something that peo- brand appears to have of his black-and-white portraits, Krakoff launched his own ple fall in love with.” been plagued by retailing was published by Assouline. label in 2010 while he was still Krakoff left Coach in woes. The company oper- Krakoff ’s New York stores were working as executive creative April 2013 to focus on ated a store in Tokyo’s laden with tailor-made art in- director of Coach Inc., which his namesake brand. Aoyama neighborhood cluding pieces from Memphis provided initial fi nancial back- tic designs were cited for over- Four months later, in while it was still Design Group co-founder Ettore ing of the endeavor and which referencing category kingpins August, he purchased under Coach Inc.’s Sottsass’ design firm Sottsass he and then-chairman and ceo like Helmut Lang and Céline. the label from the Krakoff had purview, but that Associati. “I see myself in design, Lew Frankfort propelled into a While rtw was never a criti- leather goods mega- found his stride unit closed shortly but I don’t see myself as a fashion multibillion-dollar juggernaut cal success, Krakoff naturally house in a buyout at one time in after Krakoff and designer,” Krakoff said at a 2014 that became the leading acces- found his stride in the acces- deal estimated at $50 handbags. his investors took luncheon where he was honored sories brand in the U.S. sories category, handbags in million. The designer control of the label. by the American Federation of The Krakoff label’s fi rst few particular. Retailers such as took the largest stake in In September, the designer told Arts. “I have done that for 24 rtw seasons received mixed re- Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman the company, while Washington, WWD of his big retailing plans: years, but I look at what I do as actions, with early reviews cit- Marcus quickly picked up his D.C.-based entrepreneurs Mark “There are somewhere between much more than creating a de- ing a “utilitarian, uniform aes- handbag offerings (both depart- Ein and Mitchell Rales and cer- 10 and 15 key cities where we sign, but creating an aesthetic… thetic” and general “growing ment stores carry the label and tain funds managed by T. Rowe will begin to open stores. As I guess in a way, I’m more of an pains.” At times, his minimalis- reported a steady performance). Price also invested in the brand. those stores open, we’ll start auteur than a fashion designer.” PHOTOS BY STEPHEN SULLIVAN STEPHEN SULLIVAN PHOTOS BY Swatch Unveils Smartwatches Andretta Named tery as replacement. And the new duced more than a decade ago. By HAIG SIMONIAN Swatch range was far cheaper. The arrival now of broad indus- “There are simpler solutions try standards has made NFC tech- CEO of Mulberry CORGÉMONT, Switzerland — Let that bring much more practical ad- nology — and its incorporation in Andretta will carry on the smartwatch battle begin. vantages to the customer,” he said. watches — more commercially ap- By SAMANTHA CONTI Davis’ work over the past Swatch Group on Thursday is- “We want to give consumers tech- pealing. The technology is being year to tweak Mulberry’s sued its long-awaited response to nology at an accessible price.” used wisely in contactless retail pay- LONDON — Shares in market positioning, recon- the new Apple Watch with a family Swatch has taken an extremely ments, but also has a vast range of Mulberry Group edged nect with its core British fe- of touchscreen “smart” timepieces focused — and niche — approach to potential other applications, which down Thursday following male customer, and consoli- aimed to appeal to a range of spe- its smartwatches. For example, the could be loaded via computer onto a the announcement that date its recent moves into cialist interest groups. Starting with Swatch Touch Zero One, a sporty, suitably equipped watch. longtime luxury manager international markets. the Swatch Touch Zero One, going rectangular wristwatch and perfor- “It can be personalized and Thierry Andretta would Guillon stepped down on sale by the summer, the family mance tracking device, will focus on confi gured to your own needs,” take up the role of chief ex- as ceo last March after will launch with fi ve models, each beach volleyball, with features that the ceo said. ecutive officer. two dramatic years at the expected to sell between 500,000 to go down to measuring the calories Hayek said future group Shares fell 0.4 percent company. His tenure was 1 million units, predicted Swatch consumed in clapping. The watch products could be made NFC- to 8.57 pounds, or $12.88 at marred by a rapid and ill- chief executive offi cer Nick Hayek. will sell for 135 Swiss francs, or $134 compatible for as little as an extra current exchange, on the fated move upmarket, mul- In introducing Swatch’s own at current exchange — the same as 2 Swiss francs, or $1.98, in manu- London Stock Exchange tiple profit warnings, the smartwatch, Hayek took a jab at expected for the rest of the range. facturing costs apiece. He hinted after Mulberry said Andretta resignation of creative di- rival offerings — while praising The Zero Two, due for the winter the new technology could be seen would start work on April 7, rector Emma Hill, and the Apple’s new version. season, is geared to skiers; the Zero in products surprisingly soon. succeeding Godfrey Davis, collapse of the company’s Speaking at the group’s Three, expected next spring, As a foretaste, he said Swatch the brand’s chairman who is share price. Since Guillon’s annual media conference, will target surfers, and the Group had already reached agree- serving as interim ceo. departure, Davis has low- Hayek stressed Swatch Zero Four will appear in ment with China UnionPay, the Mulberry, which has re- ered some key price points was not in the business of time for next year’s Rio Chinese payments operator, an un- booted its strategy follow- in order to woo back the producing slimmed down Olympic Games, of which named Swiss bank, and a leading ing a tumultuous period core customer, who drifted mobile phones, but rather, Swatch is a major sponsor. world credit card company. Hayek for the company under the away after Mulberry adopt- extending the use and A fi fth product, also due in declined to name the latter, but said former ceo Bruno Guillon, ed a pricing structure that practicality of timepieces. 2016, will feature special it was also a top Olympics sponsor looked close to home for was too heavily focused on “We don’t do the reduc- The Swatch cooking applications. Each — pointing inevitably to Visa. this latest appointment. the high-end. tion of the mobile phone Touch product will contain special Also on Thursday, Hayek re- Andretta, who was most There is now a wider to the wrist. We’re not Zero One. sensors appropriate to its vealed group sales in the fi rst two recently ceo of the Italian spectrum of prices, and in in consumer electronics. targeted audience. months of 2015 had been “excel- jeweler Buccellati, was December, Davis told WWD Other people do that. We are a Initial reactions were posi- lent” despite disruption following named an independent, the company was seeing watch company.” tive. “It’s a really interesting fi rst the Swiss National Bank’s surprise non-executive director at “an increase in the number Asked specifically about the step,” said Jon Cox, watch analyst abolition in January of its ceil- Mulberry last year. Prior of items bought.” The com- Apple Watch, which some analysts at Kepler Cheuvreux. “We just ing for the Swiss franc’s exchange to Buccellati, he held top pany said in the nine weeks think will cut sales of conventional don’t know how the market will rate against the euro. The move roles at Lanvin, Moschino, to Nov. 29 retail revenue Swiss timepieces, Hayek heaped develop. But there’s room enough prompted a steep rise in the franc’s Kering and LVMH Moët was up 8 percent. praise on the California-based to go around.” value against the euro, though the Hennessy Louis Vuitton. Over the past few years, company. “They did a very nice Hayek also raised the possibility impact has been less severe against More than a decade ago, Mulberry has also pushed smartwatch if you compare it to that Swatch’s new watches — and the dollar, pound sterling, and some Andretta served as ceo of the further into international Samsung, Sony and all the others.” many of the group’s existing me- other major currencies. LVMH-owned Céline, which markets. It has opened a But he argued Apple’s product chanical and electronic timepieces “In local currencies, the Swatch is also the former employer raft of new stores in North was an opportunity, not a threat, — could soon incorporate so-called Group sees very good results ev- of Johnny Coca, Mulberry’s America, Europe and the Far given the growing tendency of young near fi eld communications tech- erywhere in the world. That is not new creative director, who East, and plans to cut the rib- people, especially in the U.S., not to nology — vastly broadening their only in terms of sales, also profi ts,” will take up his role in July 8. bon on a Paris fl agship store wear watches at all. “It’s a fantastic functionality. That would stem from Hayek said. The upbeat trading Davis will revert to his in the spring, which will opportunity for us. Let Apple do the incorporating know-how from some news and new product announce- role as company chairman mark the end of its acceler- work: I congratulate them.” of the group’s microelectronics and ments lifted Swatch shares by 2.35 when Andretta takes over. ated investment program. While not criticizing Apple, battery subsidiaries, which are percent to close at 430.80 Swiss Andretta, whose back- Mulberry is majority Hayek emphasized the practical- among leaders in their fi elds. That francs, or $429.24 at current ex- ground is in luxury leather owned by Challice Ltd., a ity of Swatch’s new products. They innovation would build on radio- change, in trading on the Zurich goods, pointed to Mulberry’s company controlled by Ong would have a battery life of at least frequency identifi cation technol- Stock Exchange Thursday. “unique manufacturing Beng Seng and Christina nine months, probably a year, were ogy, used in stock tracking in retail “The outlook for Swatch Group base in the U.K.,” located Ong. They own 56.2 per- waterproof and could have their and industry. Swatch’s original in 2015 is excellent. It will be a in Somerset, England, and cent, while the rest is listed batteries changed by anyone, using Access watch — which could be very dynamic, a very good year,” said the brand has great on the AIM division of the a standard, low-priced Swatch bat- loaded with a ski pass — was pro- he added. international potential. London Stock Exchange.