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Lace Is More BUFANO’S MARC GOES MOD PLAN MARC JACOBS UNVEILS MCQUEEN RETURNS BON-TON STORES INC. CHIEF HIS NEW FRAGRANCE, “ALEXANDER MCQUEEN: SAVAGE BEAUTY” OPENS EXECUTIVE OFFICER KATHRYN MOD NOIR, WITH A AT THE VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM IN THE LATE BUFANO UNVEILS HER FIVE-YEAR LITTLE TOUCH OF HIS DESIGNER’S HOMETOWN OF LONDON. PAGE 10 TURNAROUND STRATEGY. PAGE 2 PAST HITS. PAGE 7 A TOUGH INDUSTRY XXXXXX Krakoff Suspends Biz, Xxx Xxx Xxx Seeking New Investor Xxx Xxx Xxx Xxx By LAUREN MCCARTHY By OVIDIS A NATQUE NET and MISTY WHITE SIDDELL MENDA VOLUPTA turepudit, quias nestis accus as NEW YORK — Reed Krakoff ’s rumored growing resti beriasi doluptatem. Nem aut aperunto est ut pains have come to a head. perrori taquidem aut qui blatem ad eium fugiantur On Thursday, the designer revealed he is suspend- modi cus vel iusam fugiamus, omnim volendus, sinus ing operations of his fi ve-year-old brand as the com- eaquas dolorep tatatent qui que sandelendis quis aut FRIDAY, MARCH 13, 2015 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY pany attempts to “refocus on the accessible luxury voluptur? segment of the accessories market.” Nam essint aut ea duntinv elendiciam num exp- WWD labo ribusae niam quidebi ssimet autat. The news was first reported on WWD.com Thursday afternoon. Antiur, nobit faceptat. In a statement, the brand said “the company will Idis molupti nonsequis doloren impelecae nusci suspend all future design and production, while con- im solente molorep eribus des corpora tibus, odis et tinuing to operate its Greene Street and Woodbury dunt dolorpo reiciatem dolo int adigend uciendus Commons stores, as well as the reedkrakoff.com e- aperita consequam utatur, quiani conectiam ut as commerce site. In addition, the company is reviewing intionsequas et quaeriat qui aut unt omniendi blabo. all strategic options for the brand, which may include Tem voluptat quam cum et fugia il mo etus aut eicae production and distribution partnerships or a sale of lam, offi ctoribus adistionsed que non re cone con the business and the brand.” cumquasped et quis del mo dellupt ataerum faccae The label’s Madison Avenue store will close in the repudae ne voluptat la cusapit periscilit quis eiur, aut near future — about three weeks, according to sourc- et atur asitisimi, autem quo quia nis quid qui ut auta es. Nearly 30 employees will remain with the compa- dolesequi corum qui debitatur, quiam nis mos volu- ny to help with the transition. pis sequam faccus si im el il isimoditis volorporem Another source stressed that the brand still has inven- imporro conse con ratquiasse vellum re et et optate tory for its stores and Web site and new products are in con consequuntio doluptiam eata digenis aut offi c to the pipeline. The aim is to fi nd a new investor as quickly inctur sam re re dolupta tessin con pe corio dolorum as possible, the source, who requested anonymity, said. aditias et el et mi, ius dolori bla eosam utem even- No liquidation sales are planned, as the brand dae offi cae nobistr umquos milliqui apiendam rere- plans to operate on a typical retail schedule through hen dendandi doluptur maiorrovid eum es quid eturi the summer. A decision regarding fall season merchan- tem re, incipsa nisquiam quatenimet quiditatem im- Lace Is dise and what will become of Reed Krakoff stores dur- porrovid ut quia di simporest et la dolorro blant eos ing that shipment window has yet to be made. dolupti atistia cus, aborpore landio to blautet as aut WWD fi rst reported instability within Krakoff’s offi cipsam earciaes excearum, qui te offi cilicit est aut brand in December, when rumors of layoffs and re- id mil min ea pore mil iumque pro vit offi cab il en- structuring spread throughout the industry. At the dantotatum verovid mod et rat.Soloremquiam et pro time, a spokesman for the brand said “a restructur- que pelique plibus et, similiqui ius essi re arum et More od mo earum aliquat latur, offi c tem faciend itatend ing is in process that will shift the primary focus of What might have graced a the brand positioning and product categories.” In esequatur molene landit endam solor sene vitaqua ti- collar or cuff instead became early January, the company tapped Harlan Bratcher, asitaquunt faccuptur sum qui od untorum facitiis do- lessita dolupta temporepe platect enistiam con conse- an entire dress. Valentino’s SEE PAGE 12 ditae. Itatum et aut ant enim acillor am eos esectas et Maria Grazia Chiuri explam repudae. Nequam, omniminum faceruptatas and Pierpaolo Piccioli made COLLECTIONS As Buyers Leave Paris, elegant use of yards of lace in TREND Hopes for Strong Fall Xxxxxx Xxxxxx retro Seventies FALL 2015 By WWD STAFF colors to create By OVIDIS A NATQUE NET crafty stripe and PARIS — Something for everyone. MENDA VOLUPTA turepudit, quias nestis accus as chevron patterns on That seemed to be Paris designers’ strategy for resti beriasi doluptatem. Nem aut aperunto est ut fall, and it left retailers almost breathless in their perrori taquidem aut qui blatem ad eium fugiantur this high-necked number. praise of the season as they lauded the city’s creativ- modi cus vel iusam fugiamus, omnim volendus, sinus For more, see pages 4 and 5. ity and showmanship that trumped other fashion eaquas dolorep tatatent qui que sandelendis quis aut capitals. A wide range of trends and styles stirred voluptur? buyers’ hopes that the several-years-long drought Nam essint aut ea duntinv elendiciam num exp- in women’s designer ready-to- wear sales at re- labo ribusae niam quidebi ssimet autat. tail might fi nally be coming to an end. Karen Katz, Antiur, nobit faceptat. president and chief executive offi cer of Neiman Idis molupti nonsequis doloren impelecae nusci Marcus Group, in reporting higher 2014 profi ts, said im solente molorep eribus des corpora tibus, odis et Tuesday, “We believe there is going to be a reason to dunt dolorpo reiciatem dolo int adigend uciendus buy ready-to-wear. We feel pretty positive about the aperita consequam utatur, quiani conectiam ut as kinds of trends we are seeing.” intionsequas et quaeriat qui aut unt omniendi blabo. In trends for fall, retailers pointed to a wealth of Tem voluptat quam cum et fugia il mo etus aut eicae outerwear — particularly maxi coats, capes, fur and lam, offi ctoribus adistionsed que non re cone con bathrobe styles — along with cropped pants, tall boots cumquasped et quis del mo dellupt ataerum faccae or short booties, lace dresses, turtlenecks, high-neck repudae ne voluptat la cusapit periscilit quis eiur, aut blouses, tunics, Mod footwear and bold earrings. et atur asitisimi, autem quo quia nis quid qui ut auta “Once again, Paris was the highlight of the sea- dolesequi corum qui debitatur, quiam nis mos volu- son,” said Harrods fashion director Helen David. pis sequam faccus si im el il isimoditis volorporem “Paris has slowly been taking more and more of our imporro conse con ratquiasse vellum re et et optate open-to-buy allocation, and now accounts for approxi- con consequuntio doluptiam eata digenis aut offi c mately two-thirds of our budget.” to inctur sam re re dolupta tessin con pe corio do- “Paris has given us the strongest season out of lorum aditias et el et mi, ius dolori bla eosam utem all cities. In fact, it is one of the strongest seasons in evendae offi cae nobistr umquos milliqui apiendam years: Every major house has pulled out winning col- rerehen dendandi doluptur maiorrovid eum es quid lections,” concurred Sarah Rutson, vice president of eturi tem re, incipsa nisquiam quatenimet quiditatem global buying at Net-a-porter. imporrovid ut quia di simporest et la dolorro blan PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI Ken Downing, fashion director and senior vice SEE PAGE 6 SEE PAGE XX 2 WWD FRIDAY, MARCH 13, 2015 WWD.COM Bufano’s Blueprint for Bon-Ton DIGITAL BRIEFING BOX FOR MORE COVERAGE, FIND US ON WWD.COM, SOCIAL AND MOBILE. “Turnarounds are not as quick as you’d like them By DAVID MOIN to be, but we have the goals set and a lot of the team is very energized.” ON WWD.COM THERE’S HOPE for a rebound in the heartland. Among the tactics ahead: The Bon-Ton Stores Inc., which last quarter I Increasing advertising that’s more brand-equity won with sales momentum but lost ground on and fashion-focused, to create a better balance with margins, has a comprehensive turnaround strate- big price promotions. This fall, Bon-Ton will launch gy — from adding brands to the selling fl oors such new brand positioning and will be more “mindful” as Under Armour and Vera Bradley, to bolstering of how deep the promotions go. key-item presentations and furthering localiza- I Buy-online, pick-up-in-store service starts to be tion efforts, while seeking to reduce debt and phased in this fall. balance some of the promotional cacophony with I A new 700,000-square-foot e-commerce fulfi ll- image branding. ment center opens this fall in West Jefferson, Ohio, “There is a lot of opportunity not only with the for greater effi ciency and inventory control. profi tability, but also in terms of merchandise ini- I Furthering localization efforts, with seven re- Kate Spade tiatives,” Kathryn Bufano, the regional department gional merchandise managers added in August, store’s president and chief executive offi cer, told “Regional merchandise teams can be much, much closer to the demographics and can have a very big infl uence in terms of creating the assortments,” Bufano said. “Our goal is to become the hometown store provider of great fashion.” Bon-Ton is also developing productiv- ity targets by tier of stores — small, medi- um and large — and recently designated stores into subgroups like college town stores, Midwestern rural stores, those in suburban affl uent or ethnic areas or com- munities shaped by military bases.
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