ROMANIA 2019-20

www.liberoguide.com 2019-20 www.liberoguide.com

The last time a club from won the Romanian league was 2015. Their 26 titles dating back to 1951, Steaua remain the INTRO record champions but the new force in the game, CFR Cluj, look increasingly difficult to shift. Forced to change their name to FCSB as more inconvenient truths emerged from the shady deals that wrested ownership from the Romanian Army, the European Cup winners of 1986, still known by all as Steaua, have finished runners-up every season since that 2015 win.

Romania’s huge distances and poor public transport – the train takes Welcome to liberoguide.com! nearly ten hours to cover the 500km The digital travel guide for between Bucharest and Cluj – mean football fans, liberoguide.com that away support is meagre and gates is the most up-to-date resource, low. The one exception is , city-by-city, club-by-club, to the where the revived Universitatea attract game across Europe and North 17,000-plus, five times the league America. Using only original average, to the sleek, new Stadionul photos and first-hand research, . Steaua are hiring the taken and undertaken over seven National Arena for home games as seasons, liberoguide.com has costs mount for the rebuild of their been put together to enhance ground in a shabby outpost of south- every football weekend and Euro west Bucharest. night experience. From airport to arena, downtown sports bar National Arena Across town, the Arena Națională to hotel, liberoguide.com helps illustrates Romania’s move away you get the best out of your visit government, finished a record sixth in ROMANIA 2019-20 from its totalitarian past. First named to football’s furthest corners and 2018-19. CONTENTS Stadionul August 23 after the takeover showcase stadiums. of Romania from the Nazis in 1944, The last major league upset took place 1-3 INTRO 15 CFR Cluj 24 Mediaș the stadium has staged a European in 2017 when academy side, Viitorul 4-6 Bucharest 16 Constanța 25 Gaz Metan Mediaș final and is earmarked to co-host the pitch. Along with de facto capital Cluj, Constanța, formed by Romania’s 7 National Arena 17 Viitorul Constanța 26 Ploiești next Euros. All this would have been is now represented in best-ever player and global superstar 8 Dinamo Bucharest 18 Craiova 27 Chindia/Stadionul unthinkable even 20 years ago. thanks to the rise of Hermannstadt, , pipped his former club 9 FCSB/Steaua 19 Universitatea Ilie Oană Craiova 28 Sfântu Gheorghe only formed in 2015 and based at Steaua to the title by the narrowest of 10 Clinceni 11 20 Giurgiu 29 Sepsi OSK During that time, has a new stadium. Local rivals Gaz margins. Hagi and former Romanian 12 Botoșani 21 Astra Giurgiu 30 Sibiu gained prominence, politically, Metan Mediaș teammate remain are back in contention 13 FC Botoșani 22 Iași 31 Hermannstadt economically and, for the first time while Sepsi, founded in 2011 and in charge, establishing a small football 14 Cluj 23 Politehnica Iași since before the war, on the football partly financed by the Hungarian empire on the Black Sea.

liberoguide.com 1 ROMANIA 2019-20 www.liberoguide.com

Much of Romania’s network

of motorways (autostrăzi) and INTRO expressways is still under BOTOȘANI construction. Access is by eletronic vignette (roviniete.ro/en/vignette), seven days costing 14.62 lei/€3. Horse-drawn carts are still a feature IAȘI of rural roads and snow clearance is haphazard.

CLUJ Tables & trophies Romania’s top flight, Liga I, contains 14 clubs who play each other home Steaua MEDIAȘ and away. After 26 games, the top six contest the championship round, the Station to stadium SIBIU SFÂNTU GHEORGHE bottom eight, the relegation round. Old-school national carrier TAROM Points from the regular season are (tarom.ro/en) has been surpassed in halved, rounded up if need be and the domestic and European markets by carried over. Teams play each other local low-cost Blue Air (flyblueair.com/ home and away again, ten games in en/gb). Both are based at Romania’s TÂRGOVIȘTE PLOIEȘTI the championship round, 14 below. main hub, Henri Coandă, now the only airport serving Bucharest. Such are BUCHAREST The title-winners enter the Champions the distances and poor infrastructure CRAIOVA League at the first qualifying round that destinations such as Iași by the CONSTANȚA stage. The Romanian Cup winners gain border with Moldova and Cluj towards GIURGIU entry to the second qualifying round Hungary are best accessed by plane. of the Europa League, the league Ryanair (ryanair.com) and Hungarian runners-up and third-placed finishers budget carrier Wizz Air (wizzair.com) (or fourth, depending on the cup) join also cover much of Romania from the the first qualifying round. UK and main European cities. Romanian state railways CFR example, is 57 lei/€11.70 by InterCity ?lang=en is a blessing, providing (cfrcalatori.ro/en) have a user- and almost half that price by regional timetables and ticket sales for the The bottom two of Liga I go straight Transfers into town from most airports friendly website with ticket sales. train, the former relatively comfortable myriad bus companies across the down to the 20-team Liga II, changing is by bus according to unreliable Reservations are essential as trains and 3hrs 40mins, the latter 4hrs country. Iași to Botoșani, for example, places with the champions and timetables or by taxi at equally have few carriages and journeys are 30mins. is 2hrs and 35 lei/€7.20 by bus, and a runners-up. The side finishing 12th unpredictable prices. Urban transport long. Beware of stray dogs at stations. tricky prospect by rail. Note, though, plays off over two legs with the third- is cheap. Bucharest’s has improved The main hub is Bucharest’s once Given the infrequent service, and with that buses may arrive at seemingly placed team from the second flight. considerably – trams in Botoșani have notorious Gara de Nord, a little tidier great swathes of Romania inaccessible random locations outside the centre – Decided over a straight 38-game barely changed since Ceaușescu. these days. The journey to Craiova, for by train, the resource autogari.ro/ don’t expect a gleaming station in town. season, five teams from Liga II go

liberoguide.com 2 ROMANIA 2019-20 www.liberoguide.com

down to Liga III – often at least one will have lost their licence for some reason INTRO and be forcibly demoted anyway, so it’s not always the bottom five.

Liga III is regionalised, Seria I-V of 16 teams each, with reserve sides of the big clubs included. Only champions go up, the bottom four of each go down, with a relegation play-off table created between the five 12th–placed finishers, comparing their records discounting matches against the relegated clubs below them. Twenty-one teams go down to Liga IV, which has seven regional divisions (NE, NW, Centre, W, SW, S, SE), each comprised of teams from six counties. The champions of each county league go into three two-leg play-offs to select the three promotees per division.

Each county also stages a knock-out /Craiova tournament to send one team each into the Romanian Cup, the Cupa Season’s dealings is 10am on Saturday, with a scattering the sideline, usually indicated I/II or Romăniei. These 42 meet 34 Liga III The Liga I season starts in mid-July, of games around noon and 5pm. Sunday A/B. You can pay as little as 5 lei/€1 to teams in the First Round in July, the runs until just before Christmas and will usually have one at 10am and enter the peluza, though 10-15 lei/€2- winners joined by 22 more from Liga restarts in late January. The 26-game another around noon, with a game or €3 is the norm, and 20-25 lei/€4-€5 in III for the Second Round. Winners and regular season is over a month later, two at 5pm-6.30pm on the Friday and the tribuna. Locuri are places, acoperite all remaining Liga III clubs (minus with championship and relegation Monday or Tuesday. The season runs covered, neacoperite open. Oaspeti are reserve sides) then do battle later in enter at the Round of 32 stage in late rounds picking up a week later until from early August to early December, away fans. For international games at August in the Third Round, along with September. There’s a Round of 16 in mid-May. Matches stretch over four then mid/late February to late May. bigger stadia, poartă indicates the gate half Liga II who cede home advantage. October, and quarter-finals in March. days around the weekend, with one or number, sector the sector, rând the row, These 27 winners are joined by the rest All ties are settled on the day, after two on Friday, two on Saturday, two on Entry level loc the seat. Preț is the price. of Liga II for Round Four – note that extra-time and on penalties where Sunday and one or two on Monday, kick- Crowds are low and pay on the day it’s the positions the previous season needed. The semi-finals are over two off times 5pm and 8pm, occasionally is the norm, cash-only. Carrying ID Some stadiums have bars or there’s that dictate which are the higher legs. The final in May is at a neutral 7.30pm. Note that Romania is 1hr is probably wise. Most clubs offer usually a stall selling beer (bere). teams from Liga II and III. The 14 Liga ground, shifted from the National ahead of CET, 2hrs ahead of the UK. The Romanian-only online sales. Peluza Sunflower seeds have totemic value and 1 sides, again ceding home advantage, Arena to Ploești in 2019. classic kick-off time for Liga II fixtures means behind the goal, tribuna along are nibbled nervously for 90 minutes.

liberoguide.com 3 ROMANIA 2019-20 Bucharest www.liberoguide.com/bucharest

Bucharest BUCHAREST

Awarded hosting rights for Euro 2020, stage for the Europa League Final in 2012, Bucharest has gained an international profile thanks to the National Arena, opened in 2011. This is the new face of the Romanian capital: a modern, EU metropolis still emerging from a dark past.

Since 2015, the stadium has also been the home ground of the country’s most decorated club, Steaua Bucharest, officially known as FCSB since 2017. At domestic level, Bucharest teams Behind the scenes, controversy, dark with romantic names such as Venus deeds and corruption still haunt and Juventus challenged pre-war football here. , notorious football powerhouse, Timișoara. owner of Steaua, received a jail Even today, only Steaua and Dinamo sentence for his underhand land deals, have won more titles than Venus, illustrating the murky relationships whose ground close to the opera was between state bodies and the football knocked down after the war. clubs who once fronted them. The last team that Venus pipped Steaua represented the army, bitter for the title, who beat them in the rivals Dinamo Bucharest the interior Romanian Cup final that same year ministry. Such is the cloak-and- of 1940, were Rapid. The capital’s dagger nature of Romanian society, most notably Gheorghe Hagi, Steaua internal power struggle between For nearly three decades, in fact, the third team in modern times, railway little may have changed behind the were the dominant domestic force but army and ministry of the interior, ie Romanian title stayed in the capital team Rapid emerged from near scenes even after the overthrow of relinquished the role after Hagi left the secret police, the omnipotent every year but one, invariably held by disappearance to gain promotion back brutal Communist dictator Nicolae for Real Madrid and the Communist Securitate. Steaua were favoured by Steaua or Dinamo – the Eternul or to the top flight in 2014. Sadly, despite Ceaușescu in 1989. system that held them in place Valentin Ceauşescu, son of dictator Marele (‘Great’) Derby between them finishing in a promotion spot again in collapsed. Dinamo then regained the Nicolae. Matters came to a head at took on increased significance. Both 2016, populist Rapid were dissolved in European Cup winners in 1986, title they had lost to Steaua earlier in the notorious, unfinished cup final of clubs had been created with the post- 2016. A fan base, though, remained in finalists three years later, Steaua the 1980s. 1988, a scandal of bizarre refereeing war Communist reconstruction of place, and a phoenix club based on the were the first club from the Eastern decisions, mass protests and ugly sport. Before then, Bucharest was a original rose through the ranks. bloc to attain such heights. Able to Under Communism, a victory for scenes in front of the VIP balcony – the little-known footballing outpost in the On the down side, their revered attract the best Romanian talent, Steaua or Dinamo reflected the trophy was never officially awarded. Balkans. ground, the Giulești, squeezed

liberoguide.com 4 ROMANIA 2019-20 Bucharest www.liberoguide.com/bucharest

between the Comic Opera and the Rapid Bucharest BUCHAREST railway tracks, was torn down in 2019. While the Rapid Arena is being built in its place, Rapid play Liga II games at the Stadionul Regie, former home of the defunct Sportul Studențesc, who finished runners-up the year Steaua won the European Cup. Top league scorer that year was Sportul’s Gheorghe Hagi. By the time the army side won the European Super Cup, it was ex-Sportul’s Hagi who scored the only goal.

The ground he graced is, like the former Giulești, in north Bucharest near Gara de Nord station. From there, the is two metro stops away by Ștefan cel Mare station but Steaua’s eternal rivals play bigger matches at the National Arena. Dinamo, too, also plan a new Alongside, Voluntari, the Ilfovenii, is around 30-45mins. From Gara de stadium but at €100 million, it may represent another county team Nord, the bus stop to the airport is be some time before that happens. backed by their local council in Liga I. across from the west side, nearest the Steaua’s traditional stomping ground, Hotels Sir and Andy. For a taxi, there before they moved into the National Bearings are touch screens in Arrivals – press when crossing the road – and watch Arena, was down in Ghencea, a pretty Henri Coandă airport, aka , is for the next vehicle, you’ll receive a out for stray dogs. Taxis in Bucharest grim part of south-west Bucharest 17km (11 miles) north-west of town. number, a waiting time and a ticket are a law unto themselves – make studiously ignored by the city’s metro A signposted door from the Arrivals you give to the driver. Expect to pay sure the meter is switched on. A network until line M5 is unveiled in terminal leads out to the bus stops around 40-50 lei/€8-€10 into town. journey across town should be around 2020 after a decade of delays. for town, with a ticket office to the For the four-line metro network, 10-15 lei/€2-€3. Taxi Mondial (+40 21 From Ghencea, a local bus runs to right as you exit. A magnetic card for it’s 5 lei/€1 for 2 rides, 20 lei/€4 for 9423) are as good as any and based Clinceni, whose local side is one two trips is 8.60 lei/€1.80 (cash-only), 10 – and 8 lei/€1.65 for a day pass on near the National Arena. of two from currently touch in when you board. The No.780 bus, trams and trolleybuses as well. in Liga I. Surrounding Bucharest, runs to the main train station of Gara For non-metro journeys, buy a Aktiv Bed this ring of burgeoning suburban de Nord, the No.783 to Piața Victoriei/ card (3.70 lei/€0.75) and charge it at The only hotel within striking distance communities benefits from the Piața Unirii, the No.784 to Piața €1.30 lei/€2.70 per trip for 2-10 uses. of the the National Arena is the chain presence of Otopeni, location of Unirii, roughly every every 30min-1hr, Touch in when you board. Bucharest Holiday Inn-Times, formerly Golden Bucharest’s Henri Coandă airport. timetables unreliable. Journey time is chaotic so keep your wits about you Tulip Times, behind Piața Muncii

liberoguide.com 5 ROMANIA 2019-20 Bucharest www.liberoguide.com/bucharest BUCHAREST

Légère

Parliament building, and the four- live music. Note the signed Hagi shirt Novotel with its gleaming façade when you walk in. Also on Gabroveni, on Calea Victoriei. Opposite, the Beer O’Clock lines its counter and Grand Hotel Continental echoes the huge fridge with craft options. The Belle Époque. Further up the same Boulevard Pub and Fire Club on showcase boulevard, the Athenee Covaci tick most boxes, offering live TV Palace, now a Hilton, was the ornate sports. The Drunken Lords on Șelari JW Marriott Bucharest Grand haunt of spies and newspaper knows how to party. correspondents either side of the war. metro station on Bulevardul Decebal. Around the Gara de Nord, handy for Șelari provides clean, affordable, Across main Bulevardul Brătianu, Near Dinamo’s stadium, and thus the airport and most stadiums, Hello convenient comfort deep in the bar Beer Légère on Piața Rosetti is more café/ Ștefan cel Mare metro station on on Calea Griviței serves the budget quarter. A Bermuda Triangle of streets in restaurant-like but would walk the the same line as Piața Muncii, the traveller perfectly, comfortable yet the historic centre – Strada Șelari, Best Bar in Town award, attracting a Graffiti Hotel on Strada Albac standard, with friendly staff and cheap The main global chains have Covaci and Gabroveni – is where you mainly Romanian crowd of twenty-to- comprises lower three-star rooms online rates. The Continental Group long set up in the city centre, in find three dozen drinking spots at fiftysomethings out for a good time, and a restaurant. Also close, the that owns it has just taken over the landmark buildings such as the least. The most football-focused are with TV football (and retro posters) more business-like Capital Plaza on large ibis next door, to be revamped InterContinental, with its panoramic Halftime, framed Liverpool shirts prominent, great beer, decent food main Bulevardul Iancu de Hunedoara and rebranded in 2020. Opposite, the gym and pool by Universitate metro displayed around a host of plasma and 24hr opening hours. Plus a nice feels like a four-star, with its own Euro Hotels Gara de Nord is more station, the palatial Marriott with screens, and Mojo, another LFC haunt courtyard in warmer weather. Every brasserie. downbeat. The Tania Hotel on Strada its high-end spa just behind the vast next door, with equal emphasis on city should have one.

liberoguide.com 6 ROMANIA 2019-20 National Arena www.liberoguide.com/national-arena

National Arena NATIONAL ARENA Selected to co-host Euro 2020, venue for the Europa League Final of 2012, the National Arena was opened in 2011 in place of the old National Stadium. Built in 1953 and first named in honour of the Romanian uprising against Nazi rule on August 23, 1944, this classic Communist arena was where Ceaușescu and the party bosses would speak to the masses on May Day – and, of course, on August 23.

Crowds of 80,000 and 90,000 European fixtures here in 2013-14 witnessed major internationals here, changed the stadium’s status from such as Romania’s 2-1 defeat of events arena to home ground – a role England in 1980. The stadium was extended when Steaua moved all later renamed after Romanian discus their games here from 2015. Dinamo thrower Lia Manoliu, actually from should follow suit in 2020. Chișinău, Moldova, later President of the Romanian Olympic Committee. No The two-tiered arena is divided into longer fit for modern purpose, the old two Peluzele (Nord I and Sud II) stadium last saw the national team behind each goal, Tribuna I (Vest) and play here in 2007. II (Est) on the sidelines. Tram-lined Bulevardul Besarabia gives access Over three years, and at a cost to Peluza II Sud, Bulevardul Pierre the stairs. Exit left towards the tall For international games, it’s 30-40 a sun-catching terrace with a TV, of €230 million-plus, a five-star, de Coubertin to Peluza I Nord. For white building if you’re taking tram lei/€6-€8 in the Peluzele behind and, on the Arena side, the Berăria 55,600-capacity arena was built, for international fixtures, away fans are Nos.40 and 56, two stops from Arena the goals, 50 lei/€10 for the best Park (No.37-39), a large beer garden football matches and concerts. The allocated sectors 124, 126, 355, 356, Națională. seats there, and 50 lei/€10 in each done out in Tuborg green. Signature retractable roof was an expensive 357 and 358, through Gate H. Tribuna. Prime seats are 80 lei/€16 beer cocktails (21 lei/€4.30) come afterthought. Bizarrely, since opening Tickets in Tribuna I. with white rum and grilled platters for a Euro qualifier against in Transport See individual websites for details (99/179 lei/€20/€37) can be shared September 2011, the National Arena The stadium is a 15min walk up of Steaua, Dinamo and Romania Bars between several hungry people. Just hasn’t yet been filled to capacity – not Bulevardul Besarabia from Piața tickets, and of the visiting team for Options line Bulevardul Besarabia, past the stadium, Champions serves even for the visit of Eastern European Muncii on yellow metro line M1. international fixtures. The kiosk the best being Burgarescu (No.80), its purpose perfectly, TV screens royalty, Depeche Mode, in 2013. Arriving directly from Gara de Nord, on Bulevardul Pierre de Coubertin where Carlsberg, Staropramen and inside and out, and a pictorial history Steaua Bucharest’s decision to play turn right out of the carriage and up usually operates on match days. local Bucur beers are served on of Romanian sport on the walls.

liberoguide.com 7 ROMANIA 2019-20 Dinamo Bucharest www.liberoguide.com/dinamo-bucharest

Transport & tickets DINAMO BUCHAREST Arriving at Ștefan cel Mare metro station, head for the exit Str / Barbu Văcărescu, then left. The Dinamo Stadium is just ahead. Ticket windows by the main entrance will not be in operation – use the kiosks behind the Peluza Nord at the National Arena. There, the cheapest seats in the Peluza Sud or Nord cost around 10 lei/€2, around 20-30 lei/€4-€6 charged in the sideline Tribuna Est/Vest. Transactions are cash-only and it’s probably wise Affairs, the stadium’s fate may be to bring ID. For details of the National a political decision as well as an Arena, see p7. economic one. The figure of €100 million has been bandied about. Shop While the Dinamo Fan Shop by the For the time being at least, the main entrance of the Dinamo Stadium 15,000-capacity Stadionul Dinamo is closed, the club has hired an outlet at looks pretty much as it did when the Rin Grand Hotel, Șos Vitan-Bârzești it opened in 1952 – except that the 7D, by the Complex Comercial Vitan- stadium bar has WiFi. Bârzești with its own bus stop on route No.102. Red merchandise will also under the Ceaușescu regime. With Conveniently located by Ștefan cel be sold at stalls on match days at the Dinamo Bucharest eternal rivals Steaua the football Mare metro station a short hop from National Arena. branch of the army, derby day under Gara de Nord, Dinamo’s stadium has a The capital’s second club, Dinamo Communism had connotations that central location and excellent transport Bars Bucharest (fcdinamo.ro) have been it didn’t have in the West. Steaua connections. At the entrance to the Dinamo Stadium, top dogs in Romania at certain times. though, won more titles and, most of sadly the Red Dogs bar is closed. The Now is not one of them – though all, brought home the European Cup. Whatever happens to the classic best option is the red-fronted Ursus Dinamo invariably finish top six. Post- Ceaușescu, old boys Cornel colonnaded entrance, the statue of mini market, a shop-cum-bar on the At their height in the early 1980s, Dinu and coached the Cătălin George Hîldan in front of it corner of Barbu Văcărescu/Șos Ștefan however, the Red Dogs monopolised team to domestic success but star will also certainly remain in place. cel Mare. Across Barbu Văcărescu on the championship and reached the players, most notably , The Dinamo star and Romanian the stadium side, la mama is a homely semi-final of the European Cup. haven’t stayed. Stadium requires modernisation – international died on the pitch here in Romanian restaurant specialising in quite often, the club moves its home 2000 at the age of 24. The north, home soups and fish, also serving Bucur As representatives of the state police, Today Dinamo stand at a crossroads. games to the National Arena. Still end, the Peluza Nord, was also named blonda and Corona beers. For details of the Securitate, Dinamo were favoured Their Communist-era Dinamo owned by the Ministry of Internal after him. the National Arena, see p7.

liberoguide.com 8 ROMANIA 2019-20 FCSB/Steaua www.liberoguide.com/steaua-bucharest

FCSB/Steaua FCSB/STEAUA

Champions 26 times but not since 2015, Steaua Bucharest are Romania’s most successful club, winning the European Cup, in 1986. Now called FCSB (.ro/en) and carrying over that illustrious heritage despite claims from the actual side owned by the Ministry of Defence, CSA Steaua, the club has been in legal entanglements while finishing league runners-up four years running. charged in the sideline Tribuna At the centre of the dispute is FSCB’s Est/Vest. Priciest admission is 100 notorious owner Gigi Becali, whose lei/€20.50 for lower-row seats over personal connections with the military the halfway line in sectors 134-136- allowed him to accumulate wealth 138. Transactions are cash-only and he was then able to spend on his it’s probably wise to bring ID. team. Shortly after Steaua won the title in 2013, Becali received a jail Shop sentence for his dealings. The Magazin Oficial Steaua București (Mon-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat 9am-4pm) is Royal military officers founded Steaua at the Cladirea centre, 1st floor, sector Ghencea in 1947, when the country was still a 6, Bulevardul Drumul Taberei 44, constitutional monarchy with a mainly on the same No.41 tram line as the Communist government. The club stage further, goalkeeper Helmuth Army allowed Gigi Becali to create five figures. A new Steaua stadium is club’s old Ghencea Stadium a couple changed acronyms – ASA, CSCA, CCA Duckadam saving all four Barcelona his fortune and take over Steaua, expected to be ready on the site of the of stops away. – as it pushed to win regular league penalties to bring the European Cup renamed FCSB in 2017. old one in spring 2021. titles. Renamed Steaua in 1961, the this side of the Iron Curtain for the There’s a nice line in retro ’86 tops, club attracted Romania’s top young first and only time. By then, the club had moved out of Tickets including a Duckadem goalkeeping talent to its base in Ghencea, south- Ghencea and into the National Arena. With gates relatively low, buying on jersey. Various combinations of red west Bucharest, with the promise of Soon the new free-market economy For information about transport and the day from the kiosks behind the and blue are used on replica shirts foreign travel and no national service. changed the structure of the domestic nearby bars, see p7. Home fans gather Peluza Nord, at the opposite end to and T-shirts, with yellow the away game. Top players left for the West at both the Peluza Sud and Nord ends, tram-lined Bulevardul Besarabia. choice. For a cheap, easy-to-carry yet Steaua began to dominate once while clubs no longer received the scant away supporters allocated The cheapest seats in the Peluza impressive souvenir, the sticker kit (15 manager arrived. total, tacit support from powerful a corner of the north end through Sud or Nord cost around 15 lei/€3, lei/€3) showing Steaua badges down In Seville in 1986, they went one state bodies. Land deals with the Gate H. Attendances rarely break into with around 40-50 lei/€8.20-€10.20 the ages is a handy find.

liberoguide.com 9 ROMANIA 2019-20 Clinceni www.liberoguide.com/clinceni

Transport CLINCENI Alongside the old Steaua stadium and complex, by the Ghencea tram terminus, is a cluster of bus stops. The furthest one from the ground, by the transport controller’s office, is for the Nos.424 and 425 for Clinceni. These run every 40mins-1hr and take 40mins to reach Primăria Clinceni 26 stops away. Note the No.425 goes onto Ordoreanu towards Bulgaria, so make sure you get off in time. You arrive opposite the pizzeria, the ground is round the corner on Șoseaua Ordoreanu past the big sign for, bizarrely, the English Village, a local property development. A taxi from Ghencea should take 15mins and cost Clinceni around 20-25 lei/€4-€5. Tickets Just over the border between the Admission is a basic 10-15 lei/€2-€3 city of Bucharest and Ilfov County on the day ­– if the sky’s overcast over that surrounds it, Clinceni is not a Clinceni, the main stand is acoperite, typical satellite community – it’s far covered. too sleepy even for that. The bus from Ghencea, near the old Steaua stadium, Bars drops you by the main road, the only Apart from the little shop by the bus restaurant, the Pizzeria Clinceni, and In 2018-19, a team of mainly young Consisting of one main roofed stand stop as you arrive, selling beer and the modest home of FC Academica prospects lured from other clubs nearest the clubhouse, and two providing a table to lean on outside, Clinceni (academica-clinceni.ro). around Bucharest gained promotion narrow open rows of seating behind the only option is the Pizzeria Clinceni to Liga I. The population of Clinceni the opposite sideline and north goal, diagonally opposite. Find a seat at one Promoted to Liga I in 2019, the Based in , Ilfov County, the is only a few hundred more than the the Stadionul Clinceni is modest but of the sturdy wooden tables on the Academicienii carry the foundation club was bought, eventually, by the current capacity of the Stadionul adequate for its purposes. Average rustic, enclosed terrace – the interior date of 2015 on their black-and-blue community of Clinceni and, in a Clinceni, 4,500. Surrounded by gates hover around 1,000, with is clean but feature-free. Bottled beers badge but the club’s convoluted history further twist by way of Pitești, took the training pitches, this is the hub of the Steaua the nearest rivals as the crow include Tuborg, Heineken and Ursus, dates back a decade before then. First, name Academica. At some point, the academy, a long-term project with flies or, in actual fact, as the bus while oven-fired pizzas run in the 20-25 there were two small teams from colours blue and black were adopted, perhaps more secure prospects than from Ghencea runs. Young academy lei/€4-€5 range. There’s nothing at the the main commuter belt north of the probably when the outfit was called interminable relocations and re- players and their families make up ground itself, though the clubhouse is capital, Buftea and Fieni. Inter Clinceni. selling of league licences. the numbers. crying out for a supporters’ bar.

liberoguide.com 10 ROMANIA 2019-20 Voluntari www.liberoguide.com/voluntari

tradition – but this is not the only club VOLUNTARI in Romania operating under these circumstances.

Transport Bus No.135 (direction Tunari) runs via Aurel Vlaicu metro station, about 15mins from Bulevardul Pipera, the main road that cuts through Voluntari. Alight at either Drumul Bisericii or, further up and the stop closer to the only real pub, Biserica Adormirea Maicii Domnului. In between these two stops, Strada Niță Pintea leads to Regina Ana park, with the stadium alongside. A taxi from Aurel Vlaicu metro station should take 10mins and cost around 12-15 lei/€2.50-€3.

Tickets The few hundred who show up at Voluntari pay around 10-15 lei/€2-€3 for admission. The stand behind one Voluntărenii also won the Romanian goal is partly covered. Cup on penalties in 2017, overcoming offered cheaper rates than a couple of Romanian national team to untold Astra Giurgiu. Sadly, European Bars Voluntari kilometres away in the capital. heights in the 1980s and 1990s, and football didn’t come to Ilfov Country as There’s nothing at or around the was later a member of the Romanian Voluntari were then refused a UEFA ground. If you’re coming by the No.135 Romanian Cup winners in 2017, This led to the municipality setting Senate for surrounding Ilfov County, licence, and Craoiva took the berth. bus, 250 metres ahead of the Biserica Voluntari (facebook.com/VoluntariFC) up a professional football team in the ground now holds 4,600. A couple Adormirea Maicii Domnului stop, the represent the burgeoning suburb of 2010, which rose up from the local of stands with seats in the colours of Average crowds are in three figures, Ginger Horse Irish Pub (Bulevardul the same name just north of Bucharest league to the top flight in four straight the Romanian flag surround a simple a number bumped up by the visits Pipera 40B) offers wall-to-wall TV city limits, towards the airport. seasons. For their first campaign in pitch – this could easily be Liga II. of Steaua and Dinamo. For all the sport, including a huge screen filling With a strong sense of community Liga I, Voluntari moved home games progress the club has made – 2019-20 one wall, Guinness and Kilkenny – ‘Voluntari’ refers to the volunteers to the Dinamo Stadium while their own With Dinamo legend Ioan Andone as is Voluntari’s fifth consecutive season on draught, and a full menu. From of World War I promised plots of land Anghel Iordănescu was being rebuilt general manager, Voluntari avoided in Liga I – it’s not easy to create a there, you’re a good 20min walk to the here if they came back alive – this and reconfigured for top-tier football. the relegation play-offs in 2019, having fan base with the Bucharest giants stadium, back down Bulevardul Pipera city of 40,000-plus inhabitants has Named after the former Steaua narrowly salvaged top-tier status so close. There’s no club shop, no and left along Strada Niță Pintea – or seen money flood in with companies player who coached the club and the the season before on penalties. The supporters’ bar and, obviously, no 5min in a taxi.

liberoguide.com 11 ROMANIA 2019-20 Botoșani www.liberoguide.com/botosani

Botoșani BOTOȘANI

Way up in Romania’s north-east corner by the borders with Moldova and Ukraine, Botoșani (‘Botoshan’) is a seat of learning and literature. Plentiful greenery and pleasant street life typify the city. There’s even free public open-air opera in summer.

True, a rust-bucket tram serves the Municipal Stadium near town, where FC Botoșani have staged consecutive lei/€0.50, journey time 20mins) runs top-flight campaigns since 2013. every 1-2hrs to Iași train station. A ‘Graceful’ would be a stretch but, taxi is around 20 lei/€4. The train compared to others across Romania, to Botoșani (40 lei/€8) involves a the Stadionul Municipal is by no change at Verești, a bleak dusty means grim, and has hosted U-21 outpost of local drunks and stray international fixtures. Later England dogs. Overall journey time is 3-4hrs. stars Daniel Sturridge and Jordan From Botoșani station, it’s a 10min Henderson played here in 2010. walk to the stadium or 20min to town, both connected by rust-bucket rustic three-star whose main Beer With its running track, this was the tram No.101 (tickets 2.50 lei/€0.50) business is its homely terrace Terraces line main, pedestrianised main sports ground in town under along main Calea Naţională. restaurant. Also convenient but Strada Unirii, where locals convene Ceaușescu. FCB’s predecessors, CS right in town, the comfortable over drinks at Heineken-branded, Botoșani, were based here for two Alternatively, an RVG bus (35 Hotel Rapsodia, at the junction of smart La Strada, with screens inside, decades from 1973. Unirea moved in lei/€7.20, journey time 2hrs) runs Calea Naţională and main Strada rocking La Roca, with screens and DJ afterwards but committed the cardinal from Șoseaua Moara de Foc 15, Unirii, is everything an upper mid- decks, and the Terrasa Unirii, where sin of merging with Poli from local 1.5km west of Iași train station, to range hotel should be, at two-star dauntingly cheap beers rivals Iași. Formed in 2001, likeable Bulevardul George Enescu 30, on prices. At the other end of Unirii, the are served beneath blue Neumarkt FC Botoșani have since built an the outskirts of Botoșani. Taxi stands Hotel Maria justifies its four-star umbrellas on a raised terrace, with infrastructure that has helped take line the train station and stadium. To status with a kidney-shaped pool, big screens inside and out. The them into Europe. call one, Taxi Minu are on +40 231 loungers and waterside bar – plus Grand Irish Pub (Strada Marchian 585 850. decent rooms. Further down Mihai 5, near Cuza Vodă) looks more like a Bearings Eminescu, the mid-range Belvedere garden centre but allows you to sip to MUFC, its interior decorated with Iași Airport is 129km (80 miles) Bed features a popular terrace your Carlsberg beneath a covered photos and painted likenesses, its south-east of Botoșani. From the On Strada Vânători by the stadium, restaurant and a paid-for spa, open terrace. Save time for the United terrace overlooking prominent Piața 1 terminus, the No.50 bus (2.50 the Pensiunea Olimp is a pleasantly from 4pm. Arena, a quality football bar dedicated Decembrie 1918.

liberoguide.com 12 ROMANIA 2019-20 FC Botoșani www.liberoguide.com/fc-botosani

FC Botoșani FC BOTOȘANI

Only in existence since 2001, FC Botoșani (fcbotosani.ro) have done their city proud, gaining access to Liga I and staying there, qualifying for Europe and nurturing local youth teams. In a domestic game typified by chancers, swindlers and ridiculous mergers, owner Valeriu Iftime, who made his money in electronics, stands out as relatively honest. If ever there was a community club in Romania, it’s FC Botoșani.

Reliably mid-table since promotion in 2013, the Botoșănenii entered Europe through the back door two years later when the three clubs above them were refused UEFA licences – indicative, perhaps, of more solid foundations here. True, European journeymen Bars brushed FCB aside, Across the main road from the coming to this north-eastern corner of stadium, the basic Bar Stadion has a Romania to protect a 1-0 home lead, large covered terrace and a TV inside. but Botoșani should be back before too On the stadium side, Jocuri is no long. 101 of the Hotel Rapsodia in the Transport Tickets & shop less basic but offers a tree-shaded twilight of his career. Home fans still Shabby tram No.101 runs frequently A couple of white kiosks behind the terrace. Right by the main entrance, With a capacity of nearly 8,000, while gather in the Peluza Nord nearest along Calea Naţională but you’re stadium on main Calea Naţională, Magic Gustului is, indeed, magic. still mainly open to the elements, main Calea Naţională linking station, only a ten-minute walk from town usually operate a couple of days before Beneath white umbrellas across a the Municipal Stadium is both a stadium and town. The few visiting or, in the opposite direction, the the game and certainly for a couple wide terrace, lovely staff serve Ciuc, comfortable and lively place to watch supporters – Botoșani is a long way train station. If you do take the of hours in the run-up to kick-off. You Silva, Timișoreana and Amstel beers, a football match. Renovation and from anywhere apart from local rivals tram, alight at the Electrocasnice pay around 10 lei/€2 for a seat behind burgers and pizzas. It’s officially conversion to an all-seater in 2013 did Iași – are allocated sector F of the store apparently selling only fire the goal in the Peluza Nord or Sud, 15 a pizzeria but the chef promises little to diminish its retro authenticity. Peluza Sud nearest Tribuna II. The extinguishers. There are taxi stands lei/€3 in Tribuna II and 20-25 lei/€4-€5 quality fish on Fridays. Jazzy music It still feels like the great Nicolae only covered (acoperit) sector is B in on facing sides of the road by the for the best places in Tribuna I. A few and colourful murals feature inside. Dobrin is about to stride onto the Tribuna I, considerably pricier than stadium – it’s about 6 lei/€1.20 to the red-and-blue souvenirs are sold by the Probably the best pre-match option in pitch, dandering down from room the rest. station or town. main entrance on match days. all Romania.

liberoguide.com 13 ROMANIA 2019-20 Cluj www.liberoguide.com/cluj

halfway between CFR and town, a CLUJ climb up from the narrow river that crosses Cluj.

Across the water, the DoubleTree by Hilton Cluj on Strada Sindicatelor is the best lodging in town, with a heated pool, sauna and gym. Near the , the Hotel Sport on Aleea Stadionului echoes its Socialist heritage. Dead central at Regele Ferdinand 20, the three-star Hotel Transilvania is where Dracula character Jonathan Harker stays in Cluj Bram Stoker’s novel.

Romania’s second city of Cluj-Napoca, Beer de facto capital of Transylvania, is The bar hub sits between main square home to 2019 champions CFR and Piața Unirii and the river. The family- local rivals Universitatea, or ‘U’. owned Old Shepherd at Strada Matei Until recent financial upheavals saw Corvin 2 shows games and offers ‘U’ lose their top-flight status, their a decent range of beers. Close by long-term pedigree overshadowed the on Strada Vasile Goldis, O’Peter’s railwaymen of CFR. That all changed also screens matches, particularly when entrepreneur Árpád Pászkány when Liverpool are playing – it’s took over the Feroviarii in 2002. governments. Local derbies are fierce (5 lei/€1 return) are sold at kiosks and the home of the Cluj Reds. Across affairs, most notably the on-field validated in the punchers on board. the way, Shadow attracts a party The CFR owner invested over €100 fisticuffs that caused the clash of May City transport of buses, trams and crowd. Nearby on Strada Roosevelt, million in the club, almost a third of it 2012 to be abandoned. trolleybuses also runs on the same The Soviet has themed décor which in their modestly sized stadium, the ticket system. A one-day pass is 14 inspires the cocktails. A few houses Dr Constantin Rădulescu, visible from Bearings lei/€2.70. A taxi (+40 264 946) from the along, the Klausen Pub remains trains pulling into Cluj-Napoca station. Cluj-Napoca Airport is 9km (6 miles) airport should cost about 30 lei/€6.35. old-school. In the same building, An ethnic Hungarian in this region of east of town, connected by frequent the Vintage Bistro is burger heaven. shifting borders, Pászkány took on the bus No.5 to the train station. Make Bed Towards the river on Strada Émile big boys of Bucharest and won, picking sure that the bus is heading for Piața Near the CFR ground, the Casa Raul Zola, the Londoner Pub does a up three titles in six seasons. Garii Sud and not in the opposite on Strada Migdalului is cheap, simple, roaring trade on match – and quiz – direction. Bus No.8 (Mon-Fri only) goes friendly and has its own little bar. lodging with a spa and restaurant. nights. Just over the river, the Irish ‘U’ play at the gleaming Cluj Arena, to Piața Mihai Viteazul in town. Journey Also close, on Strada Magaziei, the The old-school hilltop three- & Music Pub at Strada Horea 5 hosts financed by the regional and national time for each is about 30min. Tickets Hotel Ary is a pleasant, mid-range star Belvedere (Str Câlâsilor 1) stands live music and serves hearty food.

liberoguide.com 14 ROMANIA 2019-20 CFR Cluj www.liberoguide.com/cfr-cluj

price as the lower tier in Tribuna II. The CLUJ CFR best seats usually available are around 35 lei/€7.40 in sectors 41 and 49-50 in Tribuna II. The ticket office (Mon-Tue 11am-5pm, Wed, Fri-Sat 11am-6pm, Thur 11am-7.55pm) is near the main entrance on Str 11 Octombrie, with plenty of availability on the day.

Tickets are also sold at the FanShop CFR (Mon, Wed, Fri 10am-3pm, Tue, Thur 1pm-6pm, match days 2hrs before kick-off, 1hr after final whistle) in Tribuna II, where merchandise is emblazoned with railroad iconography. First-team tops are burgundy, second- sidelines, and home end Peluza 1 and choice white. 2 (sectors 24-36) behind the south goal are arranged in two tiers. Depending on Bars the opposition, away fans are usually With the dearth of decent bars – almost allocated sector 28 at the far end of any bars, in fact – around the stadium, lower Peluza I, at the corner with CFR fans tend to meet in town. Key Tribuna II. The main entrance is on Str place is the Domino Sport Pub just 11 Octombrie – note the mural depicting over the river on the corner of Strada CFR history in the Tribuna I stand. Brassaï Sámuel and Dávid Ferenc. Inside is done out head-to-toe in Transport football scarves, with just about enough From town, bus No.37 runs from room for a TV. Marian Băgăcean ended the threat of in 1973, Dr Constantin Rădulescu saw central Piața Mihai Viteazul to the CFR Cluj insolvency by buying a majority share major improvements after the arrival Arena CFR stop, journey time about The only real option near the ground in the club. CFR (‘cheff-fair-rey’) duly of the Transylvanian Abramovich Árpád 10-15mins. The walking from the train is found behind the Peluza I/II South Romanian champions CFR Cluj won Liga I in 2018 and 2019. Three Pászkány – yet still only contains three station, via Strada Fericirii and Strada Stand, at Str Gruia 37. An enclosed (cfr1907.ro) have enjoyed significant Champions League campaigns have stands. An all-seater of 23,500 capacity, Kovári László, would be steep and front terrace with blue Timişoreana success this century, with five titles seen wins over Manchester United it is open on its north side, allowing strenuous – take a taxi. beer logo’d chairs is complemented coming under two different owners. and Roma. a view of the pleasingly undeveloped by a modest smoky interior that First, Árpád Pászkány broke the outskirts of town. Tickets & shop features an incongruous image of the Bucharest duopoly on the league Their stadium stands in the hilly district For league games, a seat behind the Eiffel Tower. On any given afternoon, championship in 2008, his side going of Gruia, close to Cluj station, where Tribuna I (sectors 1-23), with VIP seats, goal in Peluza I is 15 lei/€3, 25 lei/€5 stotious regulars will be caning the fruit on to be crowned three times. In 2017, this railway club has its roots. Opened and Tribuna II (sectors 37-53) along the lei for higher up in Peluza II, the same machine.

liberoguide.com 15 ROMANIA 2019-20 Constanța www.liberoguide.com/constanta

Constanța CONSTANȚA

The biggest port on the Black Sea, Constanța produced Romania’s greatest footballer, locally born Gheorghe Hagi. The later Real Madrid, Barcelona and World Cup star started his career at Farul Constanța, a traditional club dating back to 1920, before returning home to put his pesetas into an academy project that has reaped considerable rewards.

Formed in 2009, Viitorul Constanța beach and Irish Pub opposite. Also reached Liga I in 2012, moved into near the pub, the Hotel Sport offers their own stadium in 2015 and won a frills-free lodgings for athletes and shock first title in 2017. Having bought budget-conscious travellers. Nearer a league licence from CSO Ovidiu, Hagi the Old Town, the 154 rooms of the has based his operations 12km north cut-price ibis Constanța are closest to of Constanța, 8km north of the ground the shore. On Geamia Hunchiar, near where he played his first top-flight the historic centre and bar hub, chic football. boutique Peninsula has its own bistro.

Hemmed in by narrow streets, the Beer crumbling also In a little bar hub before Piața Ovidiu became a lucky ground for the national and the Old Town, funky Zig Zag is team, hard to imagine now. Here Linked to Bucharest by motorway, journey time). A taxi should cost station, tickets are 3 lei/€0.60 for 2 great for football-watching, with Romania beat the Czech Republic and with its own airport near Ovidiu and around 90 lei/€18 but if you’re going journeys. For a Romaris taxi, call +40 two big screens over the bar, quality Holland, and drew with France, in vital plentiful hotels, Constanța is better straight to Ovidiu 13km (8 miles) 241 699 299. European beers and decent burgers. qualifying games, from 2005 to 2008. facilitated for international fixtures away, it’s 50 lei/€10. For details of Next door, the Racing Pub sports than most in Romania – a fact not lost transport between Constanța and Bed bar puts out multi-coloured chairs Surrounded by wind-blown fields, the on Gheorghe Hagi. Ovidiu, see p17 Viitorul Constanța. By Farul’s ground on Strada for terrace drinking. Near the bar box-fresh Stadionul Viitorul isn’t even Primăverii, within easier reach of hub on Mircea cel Bătrân, La Taclale in Ovidiu itself, the community named Bearings From Bucharest, a train (55-60 Ovidiu, mid-range New Derby is (‘Chatter’) is cosy while further along, after the exiled Roman poet Ovid. Mihail Kogălniceanu Airport is 26km lei/€11-€12) takes 2hrs-2hrs 20mins. smarter than its olive-green exterior by Ștefan cel Mare, the smart, savvy Here in 2017, Hagi’s son and academy (18 miles) north-west of Constanța. Constanța station is south-west of suggests. On main Strada Mircea Irish Pub offers TV football, draught graduate Ianis helped Romania U-21 An hourly Transevren bus runs to town, served by a network of RATC cel Bătrân, stylish, fin-de-siècle, Peroni, Ursus and Guinness, fine food hold a decent Portugal side to 1-1. Constanța station (6 lei/€1.25, 50min buses. Sold at a kiosk outside the four-star Chérica is handy for the and sea views.

liberoguide.com 16 ROMANIA 2019-20 Viitorul Constanța www.liberoguide.com/viitorul-constanta VIITORUL CONSTANȚA Viitorul Constanța

Perhaps the only case of an academy side ever winning a national title in Europe, Viitorul Constanța (fcviitorul.ro) were created by Romania’s greatest-ever player, locally born Gheorghe Hagi. Perhaps taking Barcelona’s La Masia as his model – a large board at the new- build Stadionul Viitorul prominently displays the figure of 57.7%, the percentage of club-trained players who played for Barça in 2012 and won the Romanian league here in 2017 – the ex- star has worked miracles for a modest initial outlay of €11 million.

True, this is also a business venture, Hagi wise to contractual clauses after playing in four European After their new stadium was unveiled leagues. Shortly after Viitorul edged in 2015, a compact ground of 4,500 a 1-0 win over CFR Cluj to prevent surrounded by supplementary Steaua from stealing that title, pitches about 2km south of Ovidiu, Young Player of the Year was at Genk Transport from the centre of town, nearer 55-60 he sold winger , Viitorul started to go places. While in Belgium. Tricky. Despite evidence elsewhere lei/€11-€12. And back, of course. right-back and the first team qualified for Europe to the contrary, there is no bus centre-back Dragoș Nedelcu to that season, ‘Hagi’s Kids’ won the By definition, talented players are service from Constanța. The office Tickets, shop & bar the runners-up in lucrative sell-on Romanian U17 and U19 titles. A always coming through at Viitorul, at the city’s run-down bus station, Behind the main stand are ticket deals. season later, the seniors won Liga I. the ground half-full for most league 200 metres from the train station, windows, the Viitorul Magazin for After an extra-time defeat in Nicosia fixtures. Narrow rows of open blue speaks only Romanian and Turkish. blue-and-black merchandise and, There’s a lot to cover, after all. Hagi’s in the Champions League, Viitorul seating surround a manicured grass The Transevren bus driver may underneath the sign for Loje, a simple Viitorul took shape in 2009 when he bid farewell to key players but very pitch, the covered central Tribuna 0 – may – drop you off en route café not unlike a motorway service bought the league licence from CSO much remain in contention at home. of the main stand providing shelter somewhere north but not on this station. Admission is 10 lei/€2 in the Ovidiu and moved into their Stadionul Captained by Hagi’s 20-year-old son for VIPs and scouts. The press sit slip road preferred by farm vehicles. Peluze behind the goals, 15 lei/€3 in Orăşenesc. After promotion to Liga and academy graduate Ianis, Viitorul opposite in Tribuna II. Away fans are Forget schedules. Walking would be the sideline Tribune. The club can be I in 2012, Viitorul shifted to Farul won the Romanian Cup in 2019. Within allocated Sector C of Peluza II nearest impossible. From the Farul stadium, contacted at [email protected] Constanța, where Hagi first played. a few weeks, this former Romanian the main stand. a taxi should cost around 40 lei/€8, to confirm ticket details.

liberoguide.com 17 ROMANIA 2019-20 Craiova www.libero.guide.com/craiova

The train from Bucharest (60 lei/€12) CRAIOVA takes 3hrs 30mins. Craiova station is north of town a 15min walk or three bus stops away. The stadium is the same distance again, south-west.

Bed The nearest hotel to the stadium, the Prestige at Strada Matei Basarab 15 offers comfortable rooms in somewhat antiseptic surroundings. By contrast, just behind on Strada Madona Dudu, La Favorita feels Craiova cosy and homely. In town, by the National Theatre, the Splendid is, While Steaua and Dinamo Bucharest, in fact, splendid, 24 elegant rooms, and regular Champions League restaurant, gym and sauna, while competitors CFR Cluj, might be the Helin Central alongside is only considered Romania’s most popular a slight notch below and offers the clubs. In 2017-18 and 2018-19, stylish Erik’s Pub. Nearby the other Universitatea Craiova bettered their side of Calea București, the Ramada average home gates, combined. And Plaza is the best hotel in town, pool, this a club whose current iteration gym, sauna and all. only dates back to 2013, and whose reclaimed identity saw disaffected Beer followers create the breakaway U The bar hub on Strada Panait Moșolu Craiova 1948, currently third-tier. is where you find the excellent Steam Punk, with its TV screen, Divisions have since split Craiova, varied drinks and terrace facing the largest city of the south-west, and manager. The legendary ‘Craiova they had a Liga I team. Here, a mobile Bearings the smarter Planter’s Pub, also between Bucharest and the Danube. Maxima’ played Bayern Munich, Universitatea outlet operates on the Craiova Airport is 7km (4 miles) decent. Nearby, chic Soho and the Meanwhile, unveiled in 2017, the sleek Benfica and Internazionale. In 2017, main square and a huge lion logo east of town, connected by bus No.9 Cover Pub, with its TV football on Stadionul Ion Oblemenco where Liga Universitatea returned to Milan after covers a downtown façade above the every 30mins to the main square, the terrace, merit a drink, as does I side Universitatea are based, is the three decades without European club shop. Unity, however, may be a Piața Centrala, journey time 15mins. lounge bar Scena, showing big- spaceship-like arena where these competition, the club and industrial long time coming. In 2018, from Tickets for the RAT bus network screen sport round the corner on 15,000+ fans gather. Built at a cost city failing to adjust to life after 1989. the former Peluza Sud, now aligned are 2 lei/€0.40 from kiosks, 2.50 main Strada Alexandru Ioan Cuza. of €52 million, it is named after the with U Craiova, broke up chairs at lei/€0.50 on board. A Taxi Favorit Liverpool-themed Wave 84 is all liver locally born goalscorer who led to the The casual visitor could wander that sleek new home of Universitatea (+40 251 411 500) from the airport birds and live music, tucked away in club to league titles both as a player around Iași, Cluj or Sibiu and not know during a Romania-Sweden game. should cost 25 lei/€5. a courtyard at Strada Horia 16.

liberoguide.com 18 ROMANIA 2019-20 Universitatea Craiova www.liberoguide.com/universitatea-craiova

Liga I club, many in the south, to the CRAIOVA UNIVERSITATEA disaffected breakaways. The location of the visitors’ sector has also been contentious – in 2019, it moved to 18- 19, where Tribuna 1 meets Peluza 1/ Sud.

Transport It’s a pleasant 10min stroll from the Universitatea shop in town at Strada Sfântu Dumitru 1, down Calea Unirii to the post office and right at Bulevardul Știrbei Vodă. From the station, take circular bus Nos.E1R or E1T to Stadion, allow 15-20mins.

Tickets & shops Tickets are sold from three days in advance from the club’s two outlets Universitatea in town – at Strada Sfântu Dumitru 1/corner Calea Unirii and a mobile Craiova store on the main square, Piața Mihai Viteazul, nearest the Dolj County Romania’s most popular club, Offices – and the white kiosks behind Universitatea Craiova (ucv1948.ro) domestic duopoly between 1971 and 1948 to break up the seats usually Peluza Sud and Tribuna 2/Est at the gained their legendary status in the 1991, when they did the double. occupied by their cross-city club rivals stadium. It’s 15 lei/€3 in the Peluze 20 years up to the fall of Communism – and, in 2018, hosted Universitatea’s behind the goals, 30 lei/€6 in Tribuna and just after it. The following two The key figure, the leading goalscorer return to Europe. 2, 40 lei/€8 in Tribuna 1. decades in the free-market economy and later winning coach, Ion saw a gradual descent into insolvency And what a legacy… in an Oblemenco, is now honoured with Holding 30,000, the largest club Bars in 2011. international era when the Bucharest having the club’s award-winning new ground in Romania, the stadium is On the nearby roundabout towards giants, Dinamo and Steaua, made the stadium named after him, with his divided into Tribuna 1/Vest and 2/ town, the Tribuna Stadion provides Revived in 2013, the Studenții became last four then won the European Cup, statue outside. Created by Cluj-based Est along the sidelines and, behind bottled Timișoreana and a sunny, CS Universitatea while the old club’s Craiova beat Monaco, a very good Dico și Țigănaș, also responsible the goals, Peluza 2/Nord and 1/Sud enclosed terrace to enjoy it. The tiny significant fan base was split, some Bordeaux side, Betis and Galatasaray. for the Cluj Arena, the futuristic – which is where the divisions really interior is dominated by a fridge full breaking off to follow FC U Craiova Between 1974 and 1991, four league Stadionul Ion Oblemenco cost the start. While Universitatea fans filled of other domestic options. Upstairs, 1948, considered by them to be the titles and five cups came to south- City of Craiova €52 million to build. both ends in the old Ion Oblemenco, the Restaurant Stadion serves true heirs of the team’s considerable west Romania, Universitatea the only Opened in 2017, it has since held a since demolished, the ultras behind standard dishes in smart but bland legacy. one of two clubs to break Bucharest’s full international – allowing U Craiova the north goal stayed loyal to the later surroundings.

liberoguide.com 19 ROMANIA 2019-20 Giurgiu www.liberoguide.com/giurgiu

The Autogara is by Domino’s pizza, GIURGIU opposite an Orthodox church at Calea Șerban Vodă 296-298. Giurgiu Nord and the bus terminus opposite are close to town and 1.5km west of the stadium. Taxi Giurgiu 365 (+40 72 300 0017) are based nearby. Local buses are infrequent and unreliable.

Bed Giurgiu has few hotels. The one by the stadium, Steaua Dunării, hasn’t recovered from a fire in 2012. Less than 1km north are the only two decent lodgings in town, the cosy Pensiune Perla Dunării (Strada 1 Giurgiu Decembrie 1918 67) with rooms at 100 lei/€20 and, a little further away, the The quiet Danubian town of Giurgiu, bright three-star Hotel Sud (Strada a bridge-length from Bulgaria, has Tineretului 3), with its own restaurant only really figured on the football and rooms at €60/double. The very map since former local player Ioan basic Hotel Vlașca (Strada Parcului Niculae moved his Astra club here 12) is located towards the river. from Ploiești in 2012. Before then, if you wanted to see a top-flight game in Beer the area, you had to cross the border Upstairs in the Clock Tower on Strada to Ruse in Bulgaria’s A league. On years later, the club was dissolved all accompanied by the expansion overall journey time of 3-4hrs. Prices Mircea cel Bâtrân, the café offers views this side of the Danube, little Dunărea entirely. At the same time, Niculae’s and modernisation of the Marin range from 16-23 lei/€3.30-€4.70, 32 and convivial drinks. Nearby, the No Giurgiu, founded in 1963, flitted main Astra club arrived from Ploiești, Anastasovici. lei/€6.60 for direct. One Pub, Coffee Lounge and Possesso between Romania’s Liga II and III. where they had been based for nine Café all have TVs showing match Young centre-back , decades. FC Astra Ploiești moved into Bearings Faster and more frequent are action. Alongside, La Trattoria is more later to star with Gheorghe Hagi at Dunărea’s old Marin Anastasovici The nearest airport is Bucharest minibuses operated by Omerta, pub-like than its name suggests, with Sportul Studenţesc, started his career Stadium, south-east of town and 90km (55 miles) away. from a parking lot near Bucharest’s Romanian dishes and TV football on here in the mid 1970s. He later rose within sight of the Friendship Bridge Eroii Revoluţiei metro station. the terrace. Across the canal, to become chairman of the Romanian that links Romania with Bulgaria. There’s only one direct train a day, Journey time to Giurgiu is 70min, League. In the summer of 2010, with late at night, from Bucharest Gara de tickets around 16 lei/€3.30. From La Perla (Șoseaua Portului 1) provides Dunărea in Liga II, Niculae took them A league runners-up spot in 2014 was Nord to Giurgiu Nord 2hrs away. For the metro, head for Strada Mitropolit fish dishes, plentiful beers and a over, renaming them Astra II. Two followed by a historic first title in 2016, most services, change at Videle, an Dosoftei across main Șoseaua Viilor. perfect panorama of the Danube.

liberoguide.com 20 ROMANIA 2019-20 Astra Giurgiu www.liberoguide.com/astra-giurgiu

Astra Giurgiu GIURGIU ASTRA

Romanian champions in 2016, Astra Giurgiu (afcastragiurgiu.ro) do not originate from Giurgiu, a grain- producing town lapped by the Danube on Romania’s southern border with Bulgaria. For most of their 90-year history, the club was Astra Ploiești, from the oil-rich town of the same name north of Bucharest. later rounds of the Europa League in 2017. Then in 2012, Romania’s richest man and club owner, Ioan Niculae, Set south-east of town, the Marin moved Astra, lock, stock and barrels, Anastasovici Stadium was the modest from Ploiești to Giurgiu. In fact, the ground of the equally modest Dunărea billionaire had made his lei both Giurgiu for most of the modern era. in grain and in oil but grew up in After €4 million of improvements to Giurgiu County, first working at the host Astra’s European fixtures, current state-owned cereal company in the capacity is an all-seated 8,500 but Communist era. He had bought the further expansion is expected. club in 1996. Promoted to the top flight in 1998, after a few twists and turns, The ground has seats on three sides, Astra enjoyed their first success in with one end open. The other, the 2013-14, winning the cup and finishing peluza, is occupied by Astra’s hard- runners-up in the league. core support on the south side, Strada which veers right to the stadium. Allow average gates hovering around 1,000, Aleea Fabriica de Zahăr. The few away 15-20mins or 12-15 lei/€2.50-€3 in availability is never an issue. In 2015-16, Astra broke Steaua’s fans – Giurgiu is 500km from Cluj, for a taxi. From town, take Strada Vlad monopoly on the title, goals from example – are allocated sectors G-H Țepeș, a walk of similar length or taxi Cheapest seats are 5 lei/€1 in the Romanian international striker Denis and 7-8 at the far side of Tribuna 2 ride of similar price to the ground. peluza behind the goal, with 10 lei/€2 Alibec helping the club top the league nearest the open end. Tribuna 1 on the Forget local buses. charged for seats in Tribuna 2. It’s 15 during the regular season and play-off facing sideline contains the skyboxes lei/€3 to sit in outer sectors 1-4/9-12 in stage. Coach Marius Sumudicâ, who where Ioan Niculae can entertain his Tickets Tribuna 1, 20 lei/€4 in inner sectors 5-8. had had stints at Astra in the Ploiești business partners. Tickets go on sale between 11am-7pm days, then achieved results in Europe. three days before the match at the Bars Astra beat West Ham on aggregate two Transport stadium and at an outlet on Giurgiu’s The stadium is surrounded by waste beer at the junction of Strada Păcii and seasons running, held Celtic and Roma From the train or bus stations, head main square, Piața Centrală. Buying ground, stray dogs, disused factories Strada Aleea Fabriica de Zahăr, 200 to draws and pushed Genk close in the left along Bulevardul Mihai Viteazul, on the day at the ground is easy – with and a cemetery. A couple of shops sell metres away towards town.

liberoguide.com 21 ROMANIA 2019-20 Iași www.liberoguide.com/iasi

Iași IAȘI

A former national capital, Iași (‘Yash’) still feels grand. Chief city of Moldavia, roughly the north-eastern third of modern-day Romania, it comprises stately squares, palatial façades and expansive parks. The most revered are Copou and the Botanical Gardens, both established in the mid-1800s, a good century before the Stadionul Emil Alexandrescu set between them today.

There’s little record of football here before 1945, of Maccabi and Hakoah Beer when a third of Iași was Jewish. A hub of drinking spots surrounds Teams from Chișinău, today capital the bar-like Radio Gaga English Pub, of the separate republic of Moldova, with screens, Central-European beers dominated the regional league and and seats outside on pedestrianised took part in the national play-offs. Strada Alexandru Lăpușneanu behind acronyms based on the main one of A taxi from the airport should be the Hotel Astoria. Opposite, Beer Students in this most university of CSM, and became FC Politehnica Iași around 20 lei/€4 – phone +40 232 222 Zone chalks its scores of brews on a Romanian towns formed a new club in 2018. The same fans filled the same 444 for Taxi For You. board and provides a front terrace and shortly before the end of World War stadium to see their same favourites back garden to sample them. Nearby, II. Soon renamed Politehnica, then in blue and white – just as they had Bed Corso extends its half-moon terrace CSMS, they enjoyed a brief spell done for the club’s brief foray in the Hotels surround the main square, around pretty gardens. in the top tier in the 1960s. Emil Europa League in 2016. starting with the towering four-star Alexandrescu himself was a CSMS Unirea, panoramic restaurant, spa, Behind the Palace of Culture, Legend player, and former mayor. The ground Bearings conference facilities and all. To one is the most pub-like place in town, north of town, built on the site of Iași Airport is 8km (5 miles) east side, the mid-range Astoria has screening games, serving huge a previous pitch, was first named of town. Across the road from the a more modest but nonetheless burgers and Grimbergen beers. Its 23 August when it opened in 1960, terminus, the No.50 bus (2.50 welcome spa while the four-star covered terrace overlooks urban similar to the former national stadium lei/€0.50, journey time 20mins) runs Grand Hotel Traian was built by Eiffel café. Near the Palace of Culture greenery. The other side of the in Bucharest. every 1-2hrs to the train station via in 1882 and impressively renovated and surrounding historic sights, the Ramada, The Trumpets attracts major stops in town. The extensive 180 years later. Nearby, 100 metres Ramada appeals to business visitors – hotel guests with TV sport, quizzes After Politehnica folded in 2010, a CTP network of buses and trams uses away, the Select is another grandiose behind, the Moldova combines sturdy and live music in polished pub-style phoenix club arose, took different the same tickets. four-star, with a popular terrace tradition with a pool and gym. surroundings.

liberoguide.com 22 ROMANIA 2019-20 Politehnica Iași www.liberoguide.com/politehnica-iasi

from main Piața Unirii in town, a POLITEHNICA IAȘI journey of 7-8mins. The Stadion stop is just beyond the stadium but handy for the garden bars in the park. The one before, George Coșbuc, is closer to the ground. If you’re coming from the train station, jump on a No.3 or 7 to Unirii and change. From the airport, alight at Piața Independenței for bus Nos.36 or 42 for Stadion. Walking from town up B-dul Carol I takes 15-20mins.

Tickets & shop White kiosks at the main entrance and on the other side of the ground by the Tienda Stadion bar sell tickets, 10 lei/€2 for the Peluze behind the goals, 20 lei/€4 for a seat in either Tribuna. Standard blue-and-white merchandise is sold near the main gates on match days.

Bars and-white seats open the elements. Behind Tribuna A on the north side Home fans occupy Peluza Nord, of the ground furthest from town, also designated ‘A’, away supporters Tienda Stadion offers Ursus, Ciuc, spent most of the subsequent decades in 2016. The team who played in it, corner sector P-B8 of Peluza Timișoreana beers, best enjoyed Politehnica Iași in Liga I. Also based at the Stadionul narrowly losing out to two very late Sud/‘B’, although P-B1 to B4 are also at a table outside rather than in Emil Alexandrescu, surrounded by goals in each leg against Hajduk Split, allocated if demand requires. Tribuna the poky interior. Note, though, the FC Politehnica ‘Poli’ Iași abundant greenery north of the city was CSM Politehnica. By 2018, history B is accessed through the same main celebratory pic of Poli after Europa (politehnicaiasi.ro) represent one of centre, these forerunners collapsed had come full circle, and Politehnica gates as Peluza A, nearest main tram- League qualification in 2016. In the biggest cities in Romania outside under a pile of debt in 2010. Iași strode out at the Stadionul Emil lined Bulevardul Carol I. Tribuna A the parkland just behind, across Bucharest. Yet the former national Alexandrescu. contains the press and VIP seats, this Strada General Toma Dimitrescu, a capital of Iași had no representative Out of Politehnica came, eventually, middle section roofed. cluster of beer gardens contains the in the top flight until the 1960s, when Politehnica. First ACSMU Politehnica The one constant amid all these Hunter’s Pub and Casa Vânătorului, Poli’s predecessors, student-founded rose from the ashes, then CSM name changes has been the stadium. Transport ideal in summer when meat sizzles CSMS, had a brief run with the big Studențesc, who put Iași back into Opened in 1960, renovated in 2004 The Stadion stop on Bulevardul Carol on the barbecue and beers are boys. Later also called Politehnica, the top flight. This was the team who then most recently in 2016, the Emil I is served by four trams, Nos.1, 8, 9 served beneath a welcome canopy of the Alb-albaștrii, the Blue and Whites, qualified for the Europa League in Alexandrescu consists of 11,000 blue- and 13, all of which run the five stops greenery.

liberoguide.com 23 ROMANIA 2019-20 Mediaș www.liberoguide.com/medias

Mediaș MEDIAȘ

A UNESCO World Heritage town so steeped in Transylvanian history it’s mentioned in Bram Stoker’s Dracula, Mediaș lies on fields of methane gas, whose rewards outstripped long- established local manufacturing industries after the war. Similarly, Karres Mediaș, formed in 1945 as a factory team, became Gaz Metan Mediaș.

Probably the only club in the world named after methane gas, Gaz Metan remained unchanged despite energy giants Romgaz and Transgaz, headquartered in Mediaș, taking over the industry. Privatisation raised millions of dollars – Transgaz vicinity, with a spa complex, pool and own the Stadionul Metan Mediaș, restaurant, plus cycle hire for the the home of local football since hills nearby. Closer to the station to 1950 and renovated with under- the south-west on Strada Hermann soil heating in 2010. The ground Oberth, the Vila Flora is a simple but overlooks the twisting Târnava Mediaș had come from 60km south. Sibiu Airport 65km (40 miles) south Bed comfortable guesthouse. Mare river that divides these green With Liga I so dispersed, a fiery is far better connected, to Sibiu itself Surprisingly few hotels are found in northern outskirts, Stadionului, Transylvanian derby is just what (see p30), from where a train is direct, the town centre. On the main square, Beer from town. Romanian football needs. journey time 1hr 30mins-2hrs, and Traube sets its neat three-star around Bars and restaurants line the main costs a bargain 7 lei/€1.50. A cab with a historic wine cellar and summer square, Piața Regele Ferdinand The Gaziștii, meanwhile, have been Bearings Taxi Cornisa should cost 180 lei/€37. garden. Select on nearby Strada Petőfi I, starting with the Offside Café top-flight every season but one since Târgu-Mureș Airport is 55km (34 Sándor offers cheaper, pension-style by the Hotel Traube, more smart 2008, even making Europe in 2011. miles) north-east, but with few A direct train from Bucharest takes accommodation. Outside town to the coffeehouse than pub but with TV sport Campaigns have taken on an extra transport links to Mediaș. Given the 6hrs and costs 70 lei/€14. Mediaș north, about 2km from the stadium, and a pleasant terrace. Across the edge since the rise of Hermannstadt torturous and inadvisable trek by station is south of town, the stadium the three-star Denis on main Strada square, Central Park and the popular in Sibiu, an hour’s drive away and rail from Târgu-Mureș to Mediaș, way north. Local transport is infrequent Baznei is surrounded by hilly greenery. Prohibition Pub are more music- always the rival city. When the two ordering a Taxi Cornisa (taxicorinisa. and unreliable. There’s a cab stand South-east of town, about 2km oriented. By the station, McGowan’s clashed in a Romanian Cup semi- ro) for the 55km journey (200 lei/€40) outside the station. KLIM TAXI (+40 269 from the station on Strada Plopului, offers TV football, decent food and a final in 2018, nearly half the crowd in is the only option. 965) are based by the stadium. BinderBubi is the best hotel in the sunny terrace.

liberoguide.com 24 ROMANIA 2019-20 Gaz Metan Mediaș www.liberoguide.com/gaz-metan-medias

Peluza 1 accessed from Strada Pasaj METAN MEDIAȘ GAZ Bran, and Peluza 2 from the south, town, side. While the stadium and pitch have been modernised, the surroundings have changed little for decades – an old public pool is the only feature.

Transport It’s a 15min walk from the north side of the main square, past the Texas restaurant, up Strada Johannes Honterus to the river and across to village was founded by Hungarians, the stadium. From the station, a taxi Dobay scored at two World Cups for should cost around 7-8 lei/€1.50. Romania, the team he created here going on to play a first Romanian Cup Tickets & shop final in 1951. The side who beat them Sold on the day from the yellow then won the league and cup under building by the car park behind Tribuna Dobay: Steaua. 2 – tickets are around 5 lei/€1 in the peluze at each end, €10/€2 lei in open Until money arrived with the privatisation Tribuna 1, and 12-15 lei/€2.50 €3 in of the gas industry in the early , covered Tribuna 2, depending on the Gaz Metan remained in the second tier. sector. The best seats are in lower jos With goals from Claudiu Boaru, 20 years C-D and upper E-G over the halfway a Mediaș player and now on the coaching line. Availability is only an issue for staff, Gaz Metan gained promotion in the visit of local rivals Hermannstadt No, Gaz Metan Mediaș are no CFR 2008. And there, with Transgaz funding from Sibiu. Black-and-white scarves Gaz Metan Mediaș Cluj, snatching league titles from the renovation of the post-war Stadionul are sold around the car park on match Steaua and taking on the Bayerns Metan Mediaș, they’ve stayed. days – despite the yellow-and-blue Representing the gas-rich and the Chelseas in the Champions colour scheme of their stadium, Gaz Transylvanian town of Mediaș since League, but their progress forms part Located over the Târnava Mare river Metan are the Lupii negri, the Black 1945, albeit under different names, Gaz of a general renaissance of football north of town, the stadium gained Wolves. Metan (csgazmetan.ro) have risen from in Transylvania, where German and floodlights, under-soil heating, new a works team to a club with a decade’s Hungarian influences and investment turf from Austria and a second stand, Beer worth of experience in Liga I. In that reflect its patchwork history. bringing capacity to 8,500. Tribuna 1 In warmer months, outdoor outlets time, energy money has allowed the remains uncovered, opposite roofed, operate around the lido behind Tribuna Gaziștii to stage a creditable campaign Gaz Metan were first Karres, after a star name of pre-war Romanian two-tiered Tribuna 2, jos the lower-level 1 – otherwise there’s nothing around in Europe and twice reach the semi- the local leather manufactory, then football, Ștefan Dobay, arrived as nearest the pitch. The spaces behind the the stadium at all. Drinking needs to be finals of the Romanian Cup. Flacăra (‘Flame’). Soon afterwards, player-coach. Born shortly after his goals are almost empty, with a modest done in town.

liberoguide.com 25 ROMANIA 2019-20 Ploiești www.liberoguide.com/ploiesti

just east of the main square. Call PLOIEȘTI Euro Taxi Ploiești on +40 244 922. Stands dot prominent locations, including the station.

Bed The nearest hotel to the stadium is also the glitziest, although the five- star Prahova Plaza still feels slightly Soviet despite its modern makeover. A spa and pool await at this main junction where Strada Nicolae Bălcescu meets Strada Stadionului. Nearby, overlooking the main square, a spa and pool are also found at the stately Hotel Central, which looks grander than its 1982 opening might suggest. Behind, the Tiara is Ploiești comfortable and mid-range. On the broad avenue from the station, the Promoted to Liga I for the first time Vigo fills a Belle-Époque building in 2019, Chindia Târgoviște are a with 24 tasteful rooms. modern construct, although the tower they are named after was Beer built by Vlad the Impailer, Dracula The main bar hub is around the himself, in the 1400s. Symbol of Vigo Hotel on grandiose Bulevardul the former capital of Wallachia, play home games in Ploiești an square, is a UEFA Category 4 stadium. Buses run directly to Gara de Independenței, where places this medieval landmark looms over hour’s drive away It replaced the ground of the same Nord (see p4 Bucharest), where such as the KS Pub (‘Football, the . The name – a Ploiești legend on and off surprisingly frequent direct trains Beer, I’m Here!’), Bistro 29 (also a revered CS Târgoviște team of the Both towns are major stops between the pitch – where the Găzarii beat to Ploiești Sud (slow 8 lei/€1.65, fast lodging) and the excellent Pub OK late 1970s was called the Club by Bucharest and Transylvania, Shankly’s Liverpool in 1966. Today, it 18 lei/€3.70) take 45min-1hr. A taxi can stretch out across their own Chindia Tower. but there the similarities end. hosts full and U-21 internationals, the from Bucharest airport to Ploiești courtyards. On the main square, A booming oil town in the mid- bid by a revived Petrolul to regain the should cost around 150 lei/€30 – by the Prahova Plaza Hotel, the Formed in 2010 as an academy side 1800s – Petrolul are the local club top flight and, for 2019-20 at least, all agree a price. German-style Curtea Berarilor on similar lines to Gheorghe Hagi’s – Ploiești saw money pour in after home games of Chindia Târgoviște. serves towering beers and grilled Viitorul Constanța, Chindia’s success the régime change of 1989 and an South of town a 15min walk away, meats behind a faux historic façade has caught their municipal owners air of impropriety still hangs over Bearings Ploiești Sud is connected by local and outside in the large courtyard. on the hop. For 2019-20, while their the city. By contrast, the bright Ilie Ploiești is 47km (29 miles) north of TCE buses and trams (tickets 2.50 Across the main square, the own stadium gets a revamp, Chindia Oană, a short walk from the main Bucharest’s Henri Coandă Airport. lei/€0.50 on board). The stadium is Pub attempts authenticity.

liberoguide.com 26 ROMANIA 2019-20 Chindia/Stadionul Ilie Oană www.liberoguide.com/chindia-targoviste

Four neat stands of yellow-and-blue OANĂ ILIE TÂRGOVIȘTE/STADIONUL CHINDIA seats, Peluza 1/East and Peluza 2/ West behind the goals, Tribuna 2/ South along one sideline, main Tribuna 0 opposite, surround a grass pitch. Visiting supporters are allocated end sectors 305-309 in Peluza 2.

Transport From the Prahova Plaza Hotel, it’s a 10min walk, either along Strada Stadionului, otherwise one stop on the No.5 bus from Poștei to Tabacarie – or along Strada Armoniei/Strada in 2013, Popescu fell out with the Mihai Bravu, otherwise one stop management, and took his services on bus No.104 from Armoniei to elsewhere – to Viitorul Constanța, in Maternitate. fact. Tickets & shop Meanwhile, Chindia came within From the ticket windows behind the a penalty shoot-out of winning a Peluza Est, it’s 10 lei/€2 behind the promotion play-off to Liga I in 2018, goals and 15-20 lei/€3-€4 in the then won Liga II a year later, one- Tribune. On the north side of the club man Cristian Cherchez the stadium, Petrolul Ploiești operate an main goalscorer. That still left the excellent club shop, run by a friendly crumbling stadium. Deciding to old fan happy to wax lyrical about the over the Stadionul Eugen Popescu. on the lines of Viitorul Constanța, rebuild, with completion due for the players depicted in the archive photos Chindia Târgoviște/ Here generations of Târgoviște clubs set up by his former Romania and summer of 2020, Chindia are currently on the wall. have played out mainly second-flight Galatasaray teammate –­ and brother- playing at the Stadionul Ilie Oană, Stadionul Ilie Oană campaigns, from Metalul of the pre- in-law – Gheorghe Hagi. an hour away in Ploiești. Oană was Bars Ceaușescu era to CS of the golden the coach who brought home three By the club shop, the Doroftei Pub & Few clubs are named after historic late 1970s, to FCM of recent memory. While Hagi also built a new stadium trophies, after playing for Petrolul Lounge, run by a famous boxer, and towers but then few towers are like complex on cheap farmland in the either side of the war. Opened in 1937 the Yell’ Wolf supporters’ bar both the Chindia in Târgoviște. Not only Between 1996 and 2003, there was middle of nowhere, Gică Popescu was when this Indiana-born inside-forward await renovation. With the sad closure a historic attraction harking back even a Chindia Târgoviște, though the stuck with a shabby ground done out began his career, the original ground of the traditional Hanul Găzarilor to Dracula’s day but interwoven in club founded in 2010 are different in Romanian colours in the shadow of was knocked down in 2010. This restaurant on Strada Mihai Bravu, the football history of this former in concept. Nicknamed Little Ajax, Dracula’s tower. As progress proved 15,000-capacity stadium replaced it, a pre-match beers are best enjoyed at regional capital 90 minutes from Chindia 2.0 were created by ex-World slow, Chindia (afcchindiatargoviste. gala match with Hagi and Popescu the the German-style Curtea Berarilor Bucharest, the Chindia Tower stands Cup hero Gheorghe Popescu based ro) dropping back to the third tier curtain-raiser. tavern by the Prahova Plaza Hotel.

liberoguide.com 27 ROMANIA 2019-20 Sfântu Gheorghe www.liberoguide.com/sfantu-gheorghe

Sfântu Gheorghe SFÂNTU GHEORGHE

Sfântu Gheorghe, Sepsiszentgyörgy to the Hungarians who comprise three-quarters of the population, lies in the very centre of Romania. More significantly, it was the capital of the Háromszék, the historic Three Seats, part of the Hungarian Kingdom awarded to Romania after World War I. Here live the Székelys, a Hungarian people who once guarded this far eastern border. Their blue-and-yellow flag flies here and, indeed, atop town halls across Hungary. They even have their own football team.

Against this background, award- winning baker László Diószegi and fellow Hungarian entrepreneur Dávid Kertész created Sepsi OSK in 2011, the acronym honouring the local team they supported, Olt , before sells tickets (2 lei/€0.40). Machines 24 beds and three shared bathrooms. branch of the pioneering ruin bar of its demise. With backing from the dispense from other stops. Day Taxi Across the square, at the town end the same name in , with the Hungarian government, which funds (+40 740 848 034) are based on the of main Strada 1918, same bohemian feel, open courtyard other clubs in towns once part of the main road through town, Strada 1 two further mid-range options, the and mismatching furniture. Plenty pre-1918 Kingdom, Sepsi scaled the Decembrie 1918. Ferdinánd and the Sugás, show of quality craft beers, too. Across the rungs of the Romanian league ladder, Bearings individuality, in atmospheric buildings street, smart café/restaurant Big reaching Liga I in 2017. Sfântu Gheorghe is 183km (114 miles) Bed alongside each other. Mama is done out in archive pictures of north of Bucharest’s Henri Coandă Near the stadium up Strada Berzei, town, with sport on TV. Further along In the pipeline is a new stadium Airport. Buses run directly to Gara de neat Fidelitas offers functional Beer towards the station, by the Amigo created in ethnic Hungarian style, Nord (see p4 Bucharest), from where doubles and rooms with three bunk Terrace cafés overlook the main supermarket, long-term Stuttgart alongside the Sepsi Aréna sports hall a train here (50 lei/€10) takes 3hrs beds, and a paid-for spa. Set in square, including the Korzó Irish Pub, resident Sziszi has filled all four north of town. For now Sepsi, who 30mins. Sfântu Gheorghe station is greenery near the main square, also with a TV in a wooden interior with the walls and ceiling with red-and-white made the Championship play-offs in on the eastern outskirts of town, the walkable from the ground, the Hotel appropriate decorative trappings. For souvenirs to create the Bayern Söröző 2019, are based at the old Stadionul Stadionul Municipal on the western Park provides mid-range comfort on something less mainstream, at the – and the best football bar in town. Municipal, dating back to 1930 and side. The five Multi-Trans Sepsi bus Strada Gábor Áron. Alongside, the city end of main Strada 1 Decembrie Look out for the blue-and-white beer renovated in 2017. lines call at the station, where a kiosk Green Hostel comprises six rooms, 1918, Szimpla Szentgyörgy is the local awnings covering the front terrace.

liberoguide.com 28 ROMANIA 2019-20 Sepsi OSK www.liberoguide.com/sepsi-osk

Sportcsarnok. Services run every OSK SEPSI 30min Mon-Fri, every 1hr Sat-Sun. Walking from town takes 10min, down Strada Spitalului from central Piața Libertății.

Tickets Tickets are distributed from the wooden kiosks behind the main stand on Strada Stadionului from about two hours before kick-off. Demand can be high for games against Cluj and the main Bucharest clubs so sell-outs are not unknown. Expect to pay around 10 lei/€2 with the ultras behind the goal the old Stadionul Municipal where and 15 lei/€3 in the main stand. All is OSK played from 1932, the ambitious open to the elements. ownership is looking beyond the club’s current modest surroundings Shop to a new stadium, located next to the Across the road from the stadium, Sepsi Aréna sports hall, being built beside Bertis Pub, the club shop through 2020. For the time being, the has a modest selection of red-and- Székelyek play at the 5,200-capacity white shirts and scarves, as well as municipal ground, uncovered green- player photos for those post-match and-white around a running track that autograph opportunities. separates spectators from the action. though, it sits in the very centre of savvy to negotiate the tricky waters Prime seats are below the VIP boxes Bars Sepsi OSK Romania. of lower-league Romanian football in along the sideline nearest to the main Bertis Pub is, in fact, two places order to lift Sepsi from fourth tier to entrance, sectors B-E. Behind the in one – a large glassed-in sports Created by two local entrepreneurs Sepsiszentgyörgy to most locals, this first in four successive seasons. south goal, a horseshoe of seats in bar with three big TV screens and in 2011, Sepsi OSK (sepsiosk.ro) have textile hub is also within the historic sectors G-K is the home of the Sepsi a solitary tap of Ciuc and, facing brought top-flight football to this territory of the Székelys, a Hungarian True, successful baker László Diószegi ultras. it, a restaurant decked out in far corner of the former Hungarian people whose blue-and-yellow flag and fellow Hungarian Dávid Kertész contemporary art. Food is served in Kingdom for the first time. The is flown whenever Sepsi OSK play. also received substantial funding Transport both. Round the corner on Strada reference to pre-1918 Europe is There’s more to this story than shifting from the Hungarian government, All five buses, Nos.1-5, run from Presei/Sajtó utca, Camp Nou is a still very much relevant a century borders and old wounds. The owners, keen on promoting football among the train station, through town, to small betting bar themed around later, as three-quarters of Sfântu fans of the former Olt Sport Klub, Magyar communities in areas no the stop by the stadium, Spitalul FC Barcelona, where beer is sipped Gheorghe remains ethnic Magyar, as the OSK in question, have needed longer within Hungary after World Județean. Heading back, the stop beneath white Ciuc umbrellas on the is surrounding Covesna County. Today, business, sporting and diplomatic War I. Rebranding and renovating on the stadium side is Szabó Kati raised terrace.

liberoguide.com 29 ROMANIA 2019-20 Sibiu www.liberoguide.com/sibiu

Sibiu SIBIU

The youngest club in Liga I, Hermannstadt rose from the fourth tier to the first after three straight promotions between 2015 and 2018. The town they represent is the atmospheric Saxon one of Sibiu in the historic heart of Transylvania – Hermannstadt is the German rendition, commonly used pre-war.

Sibiu’s lively local football scene reflected the ethnic mix back then. Both Șoimii (The Falcons) and Hermannstädter Turnverein, the Sibiu Gymnastic Club, operating like many other sports societies across German- speaking Europe, played in the top Hermannstadt inherited none of 6hrs, arriving at Sibiu station north- Romanian league between the wars. these clubs’ historic records, only the east of town – the historic centre is SGS even made the national final in Stadionul Municipal south of town. In walkable and pedestrianised. A Taxi 1931. operation since 1927, this communal 924 (+40 269 924) from the airport sports ground would have welcomed should cost around 20 lei/€4. After 1945, Șoimii became a railway further top-flight football in 2018 had team, CFR, then Lokomotiva, Hermannstadt not decided to knock it Bed winning Divizia B in 1950. When down and stage home games in Târgu Sibiu City (sibiucity.ro) has a hotel another side from Sibiu, Inter, gained Mureș and Pitești while a new one database. Facing the stadium, its promotion in 1988, it was thanks was being rebuilt. Completion is due terrace café handy pre-match, the with the historic surroundings. Round passage diagonally opposite, Geea is to the machinations of owner Nicu for later in 2019-20. Best Western Silva comprises 50 the corner, the Pan Geea Hostel has quite simply superb, arty, bohemian, Ceaușescu, son of Communist neat, mid-range rooms and suites. doubles, dorms and the best bar in with an electronica soundtrack, football dictator Nicolae. Bearings Even closer, by the parking area for town, Geea. on TV and a constant, friendly buzz. Sibiu Airport 3km (2 miles) west regional buses, the three-star Hotel Across the historic centre on Strada Since then, FC Sibiu came within of town, connected by frequent bus Parc Sibiu also has its own restaurant. Beer Nicolae Bălcescu, the Oldies Pub is a point of promotion in 2005, while No.11 to central A Saguna near the A short walk down Strada Școala de Off the main square on Strada Avram more a live venue, with TV screens Voința gained a Liga I place in 2011, Hotel Continental Forum, journey time Înot, the Golden Tulip Ana Tower Iancu, St Andrew’s is indeed pub-like, on each pillar. The nearby Imperium overspent and disappeared a year 10-15mins. Tickets for the tursib bus provides a touch of luxury with a gym with two bars, one later-opening. Pub also stages concerts, with regular later. Similarly establishing a rivalry network are 2 lei/€0.40. The train thrown in. On the main square, the Among the many draught options, B13 match screenings, a shirt signed by with local rivals Gaz Metan Mediaș, from Bucharest (75 lei/€15) takes traditional Vila Weidner blends in is a new craft brew from Sibiu. Down a Gheorghe Hagi by the entrance.

liberoguide.com 30 ROMANIA 2019-20 Hermannstadt www.liberoguide.com/hermannstadt

Transport HERMANNSTADT The stadium is a 15min walk from the Ramada Hotel/Piața Unirii, straight down Strada Zaharia Boiu, turning left before the Best Western. Alternatively, take bus Nos.1 from Casa Armatei or 12 and 13 from Parcul Tineretului to nearby Lomonosov. From the station, Gara, the No.15 goes to the nearest stop of Sala Transilvania a 20min journey skirting the city centre.

Tickets When the new stadium is ready, you’ll pay around 10 lei/€2 for a seat in Hermannstadt the peluze, 15 lei/€3 in Tribuna 2, 20 lei/€4 in the covered middle section of In 2015, a group of local football Tribuna 1. fans convened, pooled resources and created FC Hermannstadt Bars (fchermannstadt.ro). In modern With the previous Municipal Stadium times, previous attempts to launch long in place, there are several and maintain a football team in drinking options. Most suitable, tailor- Sibiu, an attractive Saxon town made, in fact, is Play-Off, a relaxed in Transylvania, had crashed and modern sports lounge behind the burned, the Ceaușescu-backed Inter, Moving into the Stadionul Municipal, a new one in its place. Cost? Over Hermannstadt fans making the trek. Peluza Est, with TVs everywhere. short-lived FC Sibiu and Voința Sibiu. the communal sports ground that €30 million. A crowd of 30,000 filled the National On the opposite corner nearer the served Sibiu clubs pre- and post- Arena for the final with Craiova, main stand, the Best Western Silva Sibiu, though, was on the up, its war, Hermannstadt started at the While construction went ahead, the first time that Sibiu had been and Parc hotels offer a terrace café Saxon heritage in focus. It had bottom and moved up – rapidly. Hermannstadt moved home games represented since 1951. Though and pizzeria respectively, while the not long been European Capital of Three swift, consecutive promotions to Târgu Mureș and Pitești, but defeat followed, Hermannstadt have superstylish Terasa Arini restaurant Culture, its former mayor, Klaus swept The Roș-negrii, the Red- struggled in the top flight. The defeat their eyes on Europe. When that is all about contemporary dining. Johannis, had just been elected and-Blacks, to Liga I. The Municipal of Transylvanian rivals Universitatea day comes, the Stadionul Municipal The other side of the main stand, president of Romania, and foreign Stadium, however, may have suited Cluj in the play-offs assured Liga I should be ready. The main two- the Birtul Radului is all about retro investment was pouring in. The a club with a fly-by-night owner status for 2019-20. The year before, tiered stand, Tribuna 1, already is, drinking, a single tap of Neumarkt and members decided to adopt the and short-term ambitions – but not the Sibiu side had beaten local rivals with Tribuna 2 opposite, and the bottles of Ciuc and Bucegi partaken by German name of the city for their Hermannstadt. The city council had Gaz Metan Mediaș in both legs of peluze, Est and Vest, earmarked for an older, chain-smoking clientele on new club. the old ground demolished and built the Romanian Cup semi-final, 2,000 spring 2020. the covered terrace.

liberoguide.com 31