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Download PDF Book EDITED BY UREDILA Associate Professor Katarina Nina Simončič, PhD Izv. prof. dr. sc. Katarina Nina Simončič University of Zagreb Faculty of Textile Technology Sveučilište u Zagrebu Tekstilno-Tehnološki fakultet MUZEALIZACIJA MODE FASHION MUSEOLOGY TABLE OF CONTENTS SADRŽAJ 10 11 Katarina Nina Simončič Katarina Nina Simončič Introduction Uvod 34 35 Andrea Klobučar Andrea Klobučar Fashion museology in the Museum of Arts and Cra�ts Muzealizacija mode u Muzeju za umjetnost i obrt in Zagreb and the problem of its presentation u Zagrebu i problem prezentacije 78 79 Draginja Maskareli Draginja Maskareli Museum of Applied Art in Belgrade and the fashion museology: Muzej primenjene umetnosti u Beogradu i muzealizacija the fi rst 70 years mode: prvih 70 godina 116 117 Katja Mahnić Katja Mahnić A Few Historical Museological and Theoretical Nekoliko povijesno muzeoloških i teorijsko Museological Remarks on the Study of the Musealization of Fashion muzeoloških napomena o proučavanju muzealizacije mode na on the Example of Textile and Clothing Collections in Slovenia primjeru zbirki tekstila i odjeće u Sloveniji 172 173 Spomenka Težak Spomenka Težak From the 1980s Varteks fashion garment Od Varteksova modnog predmeta iz 80-ih godina to its musealization 20. stoljeća do njegove muzealizacije 212 213 Maja Arčabić Maja Arčabić The Fashion, Accessories, and Textiles Collection Zbirka mode, modnog pribora i tekstila in the context of Zagreb City Museum's collecting policy u kontekstu sakupljačke politike Muzeja grada Zagreba 238 239 Darka Perko Kerum Darka Perko Kerum Fashion Museology in the Textiles and Accessories Collection Muzealizacije mode u Zbirci tekstila i modnog pribora at the City Museum of Split Muzeja grada Splita 260 261 Aida Brenko Aida Brenko Tyranny or Democracy of Fashion in Museums? Tiranija ili demokracija mode u muzejima? Centennial Experience of the Ethnographic Museum in Zagreb Stogodišnje iskustvo Etnografskoga muzeja u Zagrebu 306 307 Mirjana Menković Mirjana Menković Yugoslav fashion production in museum practice Jugoslovenska modna produkcija u muzejskoj praksi of the Ethnographic Museum in Belgrade Etnografskog muzeja u Beogradu INTRODUCTION UVOD Associate Professor Katarina Nina Simončič, PhD Izv. prof. dr. sc. Katarina Nina Simončič University of Zagreb Faculty of Textile Technology, Sveučilište u Zagrebu Tekstilno-Tehnološki fakultet, Croatia Hrvatska This scientifi c publication encompasses topics presented at the Ova znanstvena publikacija objedinjuje teme predstavljene na international symposium Fashion Museology—Beginnings and Challenges dvodnevnom međunarodnom simpoziju Muzealizacija mode—počeci i iza- in Slovenia, Croatia, and Serbia held from October 12 until October 13, zovi na prostoru Slovenije, Hrvatske i Srbije (12.–13. listopada 2020.)1 u orga- 20201, organized by the Faculty of Textile Technology, University of nizaciji Tekstilno-tehnološkog fakulteta Sveučilišta u Zagrebu te uz podršku Zagreb and supported by the International Committee for Museums and ICOM-a—Međunarodnog odbora za muzeje i zbirke povijesne odjeće (orig. Collections of Costume. Heads of museums' textile, clothing or fashion ICOM—International Committee for Museums and Collections of Costume). collections whose activities focus primarily on fashion artefacts and Na simpozij su pozvani ciljano voditelji tekstilnih, odjevnih ili modnih zbirki fashion exhibition concepts were invited to the symposium. They were u državnim i gradskim muzejima na prostoru Slovenije, Hrvatske i Srbije, joined by an associate professor from the Department of Art History čija je skupljačka djelatnost usredotočena prije svega na modne artefakte at the University of Ljubljana whose theoretical work includes the topic i izložbene modne koncepte. Voditeljima zbirki pridružila se i docentica s of musealization. Odsjeka za povijest umjetnosti Filozofskog fakulteta Sveučilišta u Ljubljani, čija se teorijska istraživanja vezuju za pitanja muzealizacije. The content of the symposium was based on the overviews of the begin- nings of collecting activities centred on fashion artefacts in museums of Sadržajna okosnica simpozija temeljila se na pregledu početaka instituci- diff erent profi les. On the one hand, a question of the approach and treat- MODE / MUZEALIZACIJA MUSEOLOGY FASHION onalnih skupljačkih aktivnosti usmjerenih prije svega na modne artefakte ment of the item (fashion artefact) was raised. On the other, the treatment / INTRODUCTION / UVOD NINA SIMONČIČ KATARINA i to u muzejima različitih profi lacija. S jedne strane postavilo se pitanje of exhibition concepts based on fashion phenomena as well as initiatives odnosa i pristupa spram materijalnog predmeta (modnog artefakta), a s aligned with Riegels Melchior's defi nition of museology.2 Heads of col- druge strane odnosa spram izložbenih koncepata temeljenih na modnim lections were especially encouraged to articulate their personal experi- fenomenima te na inicijativama usklađenima s defi nicijom muzealizacije ences, for example collecting practice, as well as institutional responses mode po Riegels Melchior.2 Voditelje zbirki nastojalo se posebice potaknuti 1 — Due to the epidemiological situation caused by COVID-19, the symposium was 1 — Zbog epidemiološke situacije uzrokovane koronavirusom COVID-19, simpozij held online. je održan elektroničkim putem. 2 — Riegels Melcior, Marie. “Introduction: understanding fashion and dress museology.” 2 — Riegels Melchior, Marie. “Introduction: understanding fashion and dress museology.” Fashion and Museums. Theory and Practice, ed. Marie Riegels Melchior, Brigitta Svensson. Fashion and Museums. Theory and Practice, ur. Marie Riegels Melchior, Brigitta Svensson. London, New Delhi, New York, Sydney: Bloomsbury, 2014: 6. London, New Delhi, New York, Sydney: Bloomsbury, 2014: 6. 10 11 to potential fashion exhibition projects scheduled for museum's annual na artikulaciju osobnog iskustva, primjerice, u skupljačkoj praksi pa sve programmes. The aim of the symposium was to raise awareness among do institucionalnih odaziva na potencijalne izložbeno-modne projekte interested public of the complex work carried out by the heads of diff erent predviđene za godišnje muzejske programe. Cilj simpozija bio je i osvijestiti collections in Slovenia, Croatia, and Serbia, which requires many compro- zainteresiranu publiku za kompleksnost rada voditelja pojedinih zbirki, koji mises and resourceful solutions subject to spatial, temporal, and fi nancial iziskuje mnogobrojne kompromise te snalažljiva rješenja uvjetovana pro- constraints. Despite all challenges, examples of contemporary eff orts for stornim, vremenskim i fi nancijskim okvirima. No, unatoč svim izazovima, the musealization of fashion were emphasized through various activities istaknuta su i suvremena zalaganja za muzealizaciju mode kroz različite and presentations of fashion topics in museums. aktivnosti i prezentacije modnih tema u muzejima. INCENTIVES FOR THE SYMPOSIUM’S POTICAJI ZA TEMU SIMPOZIJA – TOPIC – FASHION MUSEOLOGY? MUZEALIZACIJA MODE? In 2014, Marie Riegels Melchior, the curator of Designmuseum in Denmark, Godine 2014. Marie Riegels Melchior, kustosica Designmuseuma u Danskoj, and Birgitta Svensson, the professor of European Ethnology at the Uni- i Birgitta Svensson, profesorica europske etnologije na Sveučilištu u Stoc- versity of Stockholm and the associate of the Nordiska Museet museum, kholmu u Švedskoj i suradnica muzeja Nordiska Museet, objavile su zbirnu edited a scientifi c book entitled Fashion and Museums, Theory and Prac- znanstvenu knjigu Fashion and Museums, Theory and Practice.3 Osim ured- tice.3 Alongside editors, Riegels Melchior and Svensson, all the authors nica Riegels Melchior i Svensson, autori su redom profesori teorije i modnog are professors of theory of fashion and fashion design and curators of dizajna te kustosi vodećih muzeja mode i modnih zbirki engleskog govornog leading fashion museums and fashion collections in the English speak- područja. Pojam muzealizacije mode i muzeologije mode predstavljaju kroz ing world. They present the term fashion museology and musealization of vlastito iskustvo, ukazujući na povijesni razvoj skupljačke prakse modnih fashion through their own experience describing the historical develop- artefakata i modno-izložbenih programa unutar institucija svog zaposlenja. ment of fashion artefacts’ collecting practice and fashion exhibition pro- Prilozi se bave i utjecajem muzejskih zbirki na stvaralačke procese suvreme- grammes in their respective institutions. The entries deal with the infl u- nih modnih kolekcija, zatim na muzeje i zbirke mode kao prostore educiranja ence of museums’ collections on the creative processes of contemporary u suradnji s visokoobrazovnim institucijama i sveučilištima. Uz spomenutu fashion designers, as well as on the museums and fashion collections knjigu kao doprinos znanstvenoj profi laciji grane valja istaći i publikaciju as educational places in cooperation with institutions of higher education MODE / MUZEALIZACIJA MUSEOLOGY FASHION iz 2019. godine Fashion, history, Museums, Inventing the Display of Dress, and universities. In addition to the aforementioned book which contrib- / INTRODUCTION / UVOD NINA SIMONČIČ KATARINA autorice Julije Petrov. Knjiga je zasnovana na doktorskoj disertaciji, koja uz uted to the scientifi c recognition of the discipline, a 2019 book Fashion, povijesni pregled razvoja discipline muzealizacije mode, donosi i njezinu History, Museums, Inventing the Display of Dress by Julija Petrov should primjenu kroz iscrpnu
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