Fish Roes in Europe: Supply and Demand Conditions

Fish Roe in Europe: Supply and Demand Conditions

Marie Christine Monfort Consultant, GLOBEFISH

(November 2002)

The GLOBEFISH Research Programme is an activity initiated by FAO's Fishery Industries Division, Rome, Italy and financed jointly by:

- NMFS (National Marine Fisheries Service), Washington, DC, USA - FROM, Ministerio de Agricultura, Pesca y Alimentación, Madrid, Spain - Ministry of Food, Agriculture and Fisheries, Copenhagen, Denmark - Department of Fisheries and Oceans, Fishing Industry Services, Ottawa, Canada - European Commission, Directorate General for Fisheries, Brussels, EU - Norwegian Seafood Export Council, Tromsoe, Norway - IREPA (Istituto Ricerche Economiche per la Pesca e l'Acquacoltura), Salerno, Italy - Fundación Chile, Santiago, Chile - OFIMER (Office National Interprofessionnel des Produits de la Mer et de l’Aquaculture), Paris, France

Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations, GLOBEFISH, Fishery Industries Division Viale delle Terme di Caracalla, 00100 Rome, Italy – Tel.: (39) 06570 56313/06570 54759 - E-mail: [email protected] - Fax: (39) 0657055188 – http//:www.globefish.org

The designation employed and the presentation of material in this publication do not imply the expression of any opinion whatsoever on the part of the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations concerning the legal status of any country, territory, city or area or of its authorities, or concerning the delimitation of its frontiers or boundaries.

Permission to use the cover page photograph has graciously been granted to FAO by Agroittica Lombarda SpA, Calvisano, Italy. Both the sturgeon caviar and the pearls in the photograph come from aquaculture.

Monfort, M. C. Fish Roe in Europe: Supply and Demand Conditions. FAO/GLOBEFISH Research Programme, Vol. 72. Rome, FAO. 2002. 47p. Summary The report gives an overview of the European market for fish roe, including caviar, the species used in roe production and the different segments of the market. International trade statistics and imports tariffs for fish roe are also included.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the prior permission of the copyright owner. Applications for such permission, with a statement of the purpose and extent of the reproduction, should be addressed to the Director, Information Division, Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations, Viale delle Terme di Caracalla, 00100 Rome, Italy.

FOREWORD AND ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

This report is the result of investigations carried out in March and April 2002 by seafood marketing consultant, Marie Christine Monfort.

A large number of public and private sources of information have been compiled and many websites have been visited. These are either referred to directly in the text or mentioned in Appendix 2.

The author hereby thanks all private business operators who accepted to share with her their specific knowledge.

iii

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Foreword and Acknowledgements...... iii

1. Introduction ...... 1

2. Trade data and possible interpretation ...... 2

2.1 EU trade data...... 2 2.2 Limits of interpretations ...... 2 2.3 Fresh and frozen roe...... 2 2.4 Prepared fish roe...... 4 2.5 Market access conditions...... 5

3. Caviar - sturgeon roe...... 6

3.1 Fish and product presentation...... 6 3.2 Origin of roe and production conditions...... 7 3.3 Product presentation: raw product-processing-end product ...... 7 3.4 Retail price indications...... 9 3.5 Trade data (European imports)...... 9 3.6 Farmed sturgeon and caviar...... 11 Summary ...... 11

4. Cod roe ...... 13

4.1 Fish and product presentation...... 13 4.2 Origin of roe and production conditions...... 14 4.3 Product presentation: raw product-processing-end product ...... 15 4.4 Retail price indications...... 17 4.5 Trade ...... 17 Summary ...... 18 Other whitefish roe...... 19

5. Lumpfish roe...... 20

5.1 Fish and product presentation...... 20 5.2 Origin of roe and production conditions...... 20 5.3 Product presentation: raw product-processing-end product ...... 24 5.4 Retail price indications...... 24 5.5 Trade data...... 25 Summary ...... 25

6. Poutargue – Mullet roe and tuna roe...... 27

6.1 Fish and product presentation...... 27 6.2 Origin of roe and production conditions...... 27 6.3 Product presentation: raw product-processing-end product ...... 28 6.4 Retail price indications...... 29

6.5 Trade data (European imports), by countries ...... 29 Summary ...... 29

7. Herring roe...... 30

7.1 Fish and product presentation...... 30 7.2 Origin of roe and production conditions...... 30 7.3 Product presentation: raw product-processing-end product ...... 31

8. Capelin roe ...... 32

8.1 Fish and product presentation...... 32 8.2 Origin of roe and production conditions...... 32 8.3 Product presentation: raw product-processing-end product ...... 33 8.4 Retail price indications...... 33

9. Salmon roe and trout roe ...... 34

9.1 Fish and product presentation...... 34 9.2 Origin of roe and production conditions...... 34 9.3 Product presentation: raw product-processing-end product ...... 34 9.4 Retail price indications...... 34 9.5 Trade data...... 35 9.6 Trout roe...... 35

10. Sea-urchin gonads (roe) ...... 36

10.1 Sea-urchin and product presentation ...... 36 10.2 Origin of roe and production conditions...... 36 10.3 Product presentation: raw product-processing-end product ...... 36 10.4 Price indications ...... 37 10.5 Trade data (European imports), by countries ...... 37 Summary ...... 37

LIST OF TABLES AND FIGURES

Tab 1: EU imports of chilled livers and roes...... 3 Tab 2: EU imports of frozen livers and roes ...... 3 Tab 3: EU exports of chilled livers and roes ...... 3 Tab 4: EU exports of frozen livers and roes...... 4 Tab 5: EU Imports of prepared fish roe, caviar and substitutes ...... 4 Tab 6: EU Imports of fish roes: 2000 official data...... 4 Tab 7: Imports by countries of destination...... 4 Tab 8: Imports by countries of origin, outside EU ...... 5 Tab 9: Fish roes tariff when entering EU countries...... 5 Tab 10 : Main caviar suppliers to EU...... 10 Tab 11 : Main EU caviar importers...... 10 Tab 12: Norwegian production of cod roe, in tonnes ...... 15 Tab 13: Norwegian production of sugar-salted cod roe, in tonnes...... 17 Tab 14: Icelandic exports of cod roe ...... 18 Tab 15: Norwegian landings in 2001 ...... 21 Tab 16: Lumpfish world production, in tonnes ...... 22 Tab 17: Landings by countries: number of barrels...... 23 Tab 18: Norwegian production of lumpfish roe ...... 24 Tab 19: Icelandic exports of lumpfish roe...... 25 Tab 20: Capelin world production, in tonnes ...... 33

Fig 1: Cod geographic distribution...... 14 Fig 2: World production of Atlantic cod, million tonnes ...... 15 Fig 3: Lumpfish geographic distribution...... 21 Fig 4: Total landings of lumpfish roe, number of barrels and tonnes (equivalent) ...... 23 Fig 5: Total landings by countries ...... 24 Fig 6: Mullet geographic distribution...... 28 Fig 7: Atlantic and Pacific herring production, in tonnes...... 31 Fig 8: Capelin geographic distribution ...... 32

ANNEX 1: 2002 CATCH AND EXPORT QUOTAS FOR ACIPENSERIFORMES SPECIES...... 38

ANNEX 2: PRODUCT ILLUSTRATIONS ...... 44

ANNEX 3: BIBLIOGRAPHY AND OTHER DOCUMENTATION SOURCES ...... 47

1. INTRODUCTION

In Europe, roe is considered a gourmet food, a delicatessen. This is common for all types of roe, regardless of the original species and the origin of the roe. Naturally, there is not one single market for fish roe but several sub-markets as the various products carry different profiles and characteristics.

Roe is the generic term for female fish eggs (hard roe) or the milt of male fish (soft roe). Most fish roe is edible. Some popular roes come from sturgeon, lumpfish, salmon, and whitefish. Roe is marketed fresh, frozen, in brine, smoked and canned.

Sturgeon roe constitutes the undisputed reference, and other fish roe are often compared or named referring to the “real” one. Salmon roe is sometimes referred to as “red caviar”, lumpfish roes are called “caviar substitutes” and in Nordic countries most fish roe preparations are named “kaviar”.

This report will consider supply conditions, processing forms and demand characteristics for the fish roes most commonly consumed in Europe, i.e. from the following species: Sturgeon Cod and other whitefish Lumpfish Herring Capelin Mullet and Tuna Salmon and Trout Sea-urchin

Human consumption is one amongst several final destinations for fish roe. Fish eggs may be utilised as bait for recreational fish angling. After fertilisation, they may be traded and used for fish farming or for hatchery programmes. The pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries also appreciate fish eggs for their specific chemical properties. This report does not investigate these applications. It only refers to the human food market.

2. TRADE DATA AND POSSIBLE INTERPRETATIONS

2.1 EU Trade Data

Eu ropean Union trade statistics compiled by Eurostat describe flows of: Fresh liver and roes Frozen hard and soft roes, for the manufacture of deoxyribonucleic acid or protamine sulphate Frozen liver and roes other than for the manufacture of deoxyribonucleic acid or protamine sulphate Live, fresh or chilled molluscs, with or without shell not elsewhere specified, including sea urchins, sea cucumbers and other aquatic invertebrates (excl. crustaceans) Frozen molluscs, fit for human consumption, with or without shell, not elsewhere specified including sea urchins, sea cucumbers and other aquatic invertebrates other than crustaceans; frozen flours, meals and pellets of aquatic invertebrates (other than crustaceans), fit for human consumption Caviar, preserved or prepared from fish eggs Caviar substitutes, preserved or prepared from fish eggs Sea urchins, sea cucumbers, jellyfish and other aquatic invertebrates, prepared or preserved (excl. molluscs).

2.2 Limits of Interpretations

This quantitative information need to be interpreted with care: When fresh and frozen products are concerned, trade data reflect flows of roes and livers; therefore data are to be interpreted as “at most estimates of roe flows” The distinction between frozen livers and roes for industrial use and non-industrial use is believed to be inaccurate When preserved roes are concerned, official statistics describe flows for two distinct products: caviar and non caviar. Yet, a careful examination of them proves that the distinction is not correct. According to 2000 data, Italy imported 87 kg of “caviar” at 20 Euros/kg average value, which is far below the real price of sturgeon caviar. More likely, shipments of other roes have been included in the caviar data. At last but not least, illegal fishing of sturgeon induces illegal trade, which by definition is not reflected in official trade data. Yet, this flow is far from being negligible. No conclusions on sea-urchin trade can be derived from statistics.

2.3 Fresh and Frozen Roe

The comments below aim at giving some ideas about volume and value but can not be taken as accurate.

In 2000, EU countries imported 13,000 tonnes of livers and roes valued at 57 million Euros. Of this, the bulk concerns intra EU trade. In that year, EU countries imported 5,000 tonnes of frozen roes and 1,000 tonnes of chilled roes from non-EU countries.

Tab 1: EU Imports of Chilled Livers and Roes

1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 Million Euros 6 7 9 7 14 16 12 9 8 9 12 16 Tonnes 4 294 4 535 4 352 3 173 4 262 7 627 5 365 4 403 3 249 3 958 4 886 4 531 Source: Eurostat

Imports of chilled roe and livers are rather stable at about 4/5,000 tonnes.

Tab 2: EU Imports of Frozen Livers and Roes

1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 Million Euros 15 21 19 17 18 18 18 21 23 27 26 41 Tonnes 4 528 6 068 4 754 5 065 6 415 5 324 7 260 6 458 6 943 8 539 7 206 8 381 Source: Eurostat

In the 1990-2000 decade, imports of frozen livers and roes ranged from 4 500 tonnes to 8 500 tonnes. Over that period exports ranged from 3 700 tonnes to 9 700 tonnes.

When it comes to frozen products, the bulk (7 000 tonnes in 2000) concerns roes for human consumption; only a few hundred tonnes (516 in 1999, 174 tonnes in 2000) are declared to be used by the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries.

In 2000, exports of frozen livers and roes reached 34 million Euros. Note that exports from one EU country to another represented respectively 80% and 60% of the total exports of chilled and frozen products.

Tab 3: EU Exports of Chilled Livers and Roes

030270 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 Million Euros 10 11 12 12 10 11 13 11 12 19 14 15 Tons 2 511 2 734 3 132 2 679 2 275 2 386 2 643 2 449 2 627 4 282 2 388 2 608 Source: Eurostat

Tab 4: EU Exports of Frozen Livers and Roes

030380 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 Million Euros 17 18 17 17 21 23 29 29 19 18 17 19 Tons 3 590 4 167 3 755 3 508 4 419 5 480 9 756 8 656 3 882 3 615 3 187 3 310 Source: Eurostat

2.4 Prepared Fish Roe

When it comes to processed roe, whether in brine or not, or whether canned or not, data reflect separate flows of caviar made of sturgeon roe (16043010) and preparations made of other than sturgeon roe (16043090).

Tab 5: EU Imports of Prepared Fish Roe, Caviar and Substitutes

1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 Tonnes 2 568 2 999 2 887 2 840 3 314 2 911 4 205 4 559 4 712 4 605 5 449 7 512 Million Euros 36 36 37 39 49 45 54 66 65 60 73 119 Source: Eurostat

Tab 6: EU Imports of Fish Roe: 2000 Official Data

Intra Extra 16043090 3 671 tonnes 3 539 tonnes 30 831 000 Euros 30 681 000 Euros 16043010 221 tonnes 81 tonnes 22 824 000 Euros 34 496 000 Euros Source: Eurostat

The internal flow of prepared fish roe is intense. According to official data, internal trade of caviar is over twice as important as purchases from non-EU countries (221 tonnes compared to 81 tonnes). When it comes to caviar substitutes, EU domestic purchases are equivalent (3 671 tonnes compared with 3 539 tonnes) to purchases from non-EU countries.

Tab 7: Imports by Countries of Destination

Ranked by Value 2000 Fresh Frozen Caviar Caviar substitutes # 1 Denmark Spain France France # 2 Spain Denmark Germany Sweden # 3 UK France Spain Germany Source: Eurostat

Tab 8: Imports by Countries of Origin, Outside EU

Ranked by value 2000 Fresh Frozen Caviar Caviar substitutes # 1 Senegal Iceland Iran USA # 2 Poland Norway Russia Iceland # 3 Latvia Poland Romania Canada Source: Eurostat

2.5 Market Access Conditions

EU market access conditions are complex (tariff and non-tariff barriers vary according to species, processed form, country of origin, season, etc.) and are subject to regular changes. The regulations (tariff and quotas) can be consulted on the EU web site: www.europa.eu.int/comm/taxation_customs/databases/database.htm

In the table below, tariff code number are given in column one. Column two indicates the product description. The autonomous rate of duty is listed in column three. Finally, the last column indicates the level of duty paid in certain circumstances (suspension of duty on products when they undergo specific processes in the EU and preferences granted to products originating in certain countries).

Tab 9: Fish Roes Tariff when Entering EU Countries

Tariff Code Description Duty rate Suspension number Erga omnes and tariff preferences 030270 Fresh livers and roes 10% 0%, 3% 03038010 Hard and soft roes, for the manufacture of deoxyribonucleic 0% acid or protamine sulphate 03038090 Other 10% 0%, 3.5% 030791 Live, fresh or chilled molluscs, with or without shell not 11% 0%,3.3%, elsewhere specified, including sea urchins, sea cucumbers 3.8% and other aquatic invertebrates (excl. crustaceans) 03079918 Frozen molluscs, fit for human consumption, with or without 11% 0%,3.3%, shell, not elsewhere specified including sea urchins, sea 3.8% cucumbers and other aquatic invertebrates other than crustaceans; frozen flours, meals and pellets of aquatic invertebrates (other than crustaceans), fit for human consumption 16043010 Caviar (sturgeon roes) 20% 0%, 7% 16043090 Caviar substitutes 20% 0%, 7% 16059090 Sea urchins, sea cucumbers, jellyfish and other aquatic 26% 18.2%, 7.8% invertebrates, prepared or preserved (Excl. molluscs). Source: EU Commission, TARIC database

3. CAVIAR - STURGEON ROE

3.1 Fish and Product Presentation

Caviar is the unfertilised roe from a limited number of sturgeon (Acipenser, Huso) and paddlefish (Polyodon, Psephurus) species. The most famous caviar varieties are Beluga, Osetra and Sevruga.

Beluga is the largest sturgeon in the world. It may reach up to 5 m length and more than 2 tonnes of weight. Each mature female can produce 10 to 15 kg of caviar. The IUCN Red List of Threatened Species1 classifies H. huso as “endangered”. The species is listed in Appendix II of the CITES Convention2. Beluga caviar grains are large (3.5 mm in diameter) and range in colour from very light to dark grey (see the “products presentation” chapter). From centenary belugas comes Almas (Persian word from ”Diamond”), the world’s most expensive caviar (more than US$23 300/kg), white in appearance. Beluga caviar, being extremely rare and considered by some connoisseurs as the very best, catches very high retail prices.

Russian sturgeon (Acipenser gueldenstaedtii) and Persian sturgeon (A. persicus) are medium- sized sturgeon fish generally reaching 2 m and weighing 65 to 115 kg. The two species are very similar from a morphological point of view. They are differentiated on the basis of immuno- chemical characteristics only. Both fish are classified as “endangered” by the IUCN Red List. They are listed in Appendix II of the CITES Convention. Both fish bear the caviar variety called Osetra. Osetra grains are smaller than beluga ones (2 to 3 millimetre in diameter). Osetra caviar ranges in colour from dark brown to golden yellow. Connoisseurs say it has an incomparable nut-like flavour. Apart from A. gueldenstaedtii and A. persicus, roes from several species (see table below) carry the Osetra commercial name.

Sevruga caviar consists of small grains. It is the most abundant of the three caviar varieties. The sevruga sturgeon (Acipenser stellatus) reaches 2 m and weighs up to 80 kg. It is classified as “endangered” by the IUCN Red List. The species is listed in Appendix II of the CITES Convention. Each female can give 2 to 3kg caviar. The eggs are small and grey.

Beside caviar from wild fish, products from farm-raised sturgeon are also marketed in Europe. Projects for breeding sturgeon in captivities received attention from investors in the early eighties, and today European production is estimated at about 15 tonnes. In France, caviar

1 Available online at http://www.redlist.org 2The Convention on International trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora is an important multi-lateral environmental treaty allowing different protection levels to the species listed in its appendices. CITES Appendix I species are considered to be threatened with extinction. CITES allows these species the highest protection level by prohibiting commercial trade in their wild specimens. In turn, CITES Appendix II includes species which, although not necessarily threatened with extinction, are considered to be at risk of becoming so in the future, unless trade in their specimens is controlled. Appendix II also includes species which must be subject to regulation to facilitate the control in trade of listed species of similar appearance (the so-called “look-alike” clause). Appendix II wild specimens, including parts and derivatives, may be commercially traded if accompanied by an export permit or a re- export certificate. 6 producers raise Acipenser baerii or the Siberian sturgeon, whilst Italian and US farmers grow Acipencer transmontanus or white sturgeon.

Caviar commercial name Species Beluga Huso huso Osetra Acipenser gueldenstaedtii, A. persicus, A. nudiventis, A. schrenckii Sevruga Acipenser stellatus Caviar d’Aquitaine Acipenser baerii Calvisius (Italy) Acipenser transmontanus Sterling (USA) Acipenser transmontanus

3.2 Origin of Roe and Production Conditions

Sturgeon can be found in large rivers, lakes and inner seas in the Northern hemisphere3, All the 27 species of sturgeon and paddlefish are listed under the CITES Convention since 1998. Every year, catches and exports are subject to quotas (see: Appendix 1).

The Caspian Sea is the area where, historically, production of caviar has been concentrated. Production of caviar originates in the Caspian’s bordering countries: Azerbaijan, the Islamic Republic of Iran (Iran), Kazakhstan and the Russian Federation (Russia). The fifth Caspian state, Turkmenistan, is not a producer country; however, the producer countries Russia and Kazakhstan allocate it a portion of their yearly sturgeon catch and export quotas.

3.3 Product Presentation: Raw Product/processing/end product(s)

Sturgeon roes are taken from live fish or immediately after death (within a few minutes), even if modern harvesting methods tend to avoid the killing of the fish. Grain sacks are carefully removed by hand and processed with salt as a conserving agent and which gives caviar its aromatic and gustatory properties. The “malossol” recipes refer to “little salted”. The right content of salt is crucial as too much would dry out the roes and too little would spoil the grains. 4 Borax (Na2B407.10 H2O) may be added to give caviar a smooth and fresh appearance. However, this food additive is banned in the USA.

The caviar quality depends on the stage of grain maturity (not too ripe), the handling, the processing (grain separation, salting with good quality salt and packing) and storage conditions.

The best caviar is the fresh granular caviar, with the grains separated from each other. Grains are packed into 1.7kg to 1.8kg varnished cans; the lid is pressed down to let excess fluid get out and a simple rubber band placed around the lid secures the water and air tightness of the can. Fresh caviar needs to be stored at –2°C to –3°C.

3 Sturgeon and paddlefish are found especially in Azerbaijan, Bulgaria, China, the Islamic Republic of Iran, Kazakhstan, Romania, the Russian Federation, Turkmenistan, Turkey, Ukraine, other European countries and North America. Source: CITES. 4 E285 preservative: Sodium tetra borate named Borax. 7

Though pasteurised caviar can be prepared from high quality products, this process is often applied on fresh caviar close to the end of their shelf-life as to prolong it (up to 10 to 12 months). In this case, tins are subject to 65°/70°C warm water pasteurisation.

All caviar varieties are graded according to the size of the eggs and the processing method:

• grade one caviar, firm, large-grained, delicate, intact, of fine colour and flavour; • grade two caviar is fresh caviar with normal grain size, of very good colour and flavour; • pressed caviar (Payusnaya).

In the case of Beluga caviar grade one only, the following categories apply: 000, light grey (the most expensive), 00, medium grey, 0, dark grey.

In the “pressed caviar” grade (Payusnaya), external effects caused the fracture of more than 35% of the roe skins before being removed from the fish. It consists of a roe blend from Osetra and Sevruga, heated to 38º C in a saline solution and stirred until it has absorbed salt and regained its natural colour. Then it is put into “talees”, fabric pouches where it is pressed out to remove excess salt and oil. The resulting pressed caviar appears as a dry, spreadable black paste. It contains four times more roe than fresh caviar of the same weight, as it takes four pounds of fresh caviar to prepare one pound of Payusnaya. Because of its strong taste it is favoured to grades one and two by some connoisseurs.

Lower quality caviar (Jastichnaja) has unripe (or over-ripened) grains with a high fat content. The Jastichnaja, is obtained from jastiki, e.g. the sturgeon roe found closer to the ovaries of the fish and not being properly separated from the connecting tissues. Jastichnaja is more salty in flavour and rough in shape than other caviar. Storage of Jastichnaya does not exceed one month5.

On the European market, caviar is dominantly sold fresh or pasteurised in glass jars or metal tins. Sizes range from 1 oz to 4 pound original containers. The most typical item retailed in stores is the 1 oz. jar, a quantity recommended for a one person intake. Caviar as a fresh product should be stored on crushed ice or in a proper chilled food cabinet. It can be kept about one week in a home refrigerator. Importers buy four pounds original containers and unpack to repack caviar in smaller containers.

5 Source: CITES 8

3.4 Retail Price Indications

Below are given retail prices for fresh caviar observed during the first semester of 2002. Note that prices vary according to product quality and point of sales.

Beluga caviar, the most expensive of all, is retailed at 4 500 to 5 500 Euros per kilo Osetra is sold at prices ranging from 2 500 to 3 200 Euros per kilo. Sevruga was found at 2 100 to 2 500 Euros per kilo. French caviar made from Acipenser baerii cost about 1 400 to 1 800 Euros per kilo.

A web page hosting constantly updated caviar prices can be found at: http://www.caviar- caviar.com/compare_caviar.htm

3.5 Trade Data (European imports)

From 1998, all sturgeons and parts or derivatives, including caviar that enter international trade require the issuance of CITES permits and certificates. The permit system established by CITES allows regulation of trade and makes it easy to trace the source of any given shipment of caviar6.

After the sixteenth session of the Intergovernmental Commission on Caspian Marine Bio- resource held in Astrakhan (Southern Russia, December 2001), 2002 export quotas for caviar and other sturgeon parts have been finalised. Details are given in Appendix 1.

CITES also introduced a “Universal Labelling System” for the identification of caviar “from the sea to the table”, to achieve traceability in caviar trade and discourage poaching and smuggling. CITES Member States are implementing this system, which is at present under revision.

EU (Eurostat) statistics on caviar (16043010) are under-reporting the real extent of caviar trade. Two major sources of errors have been identified. On one hand, the official figures only include legal flows. Illegal imports are not integrated. On the other hand, some shipments of “other than sturgeon roes” are included in caviar figures. This is quite obvious when one looks at data by countries. For instance, in 2000, Eurostat reports that Italy imported 87 tonnes of caviar at the modest average price of 20 Euros. In reality, Italy imported a few tonnes of sturgeon caviar, and the residual import quantity is made up of cheaper caviar substitutes.

If we only keep data that show a realistic average price we consider that legal and declared imports in Europe of genuine caviar ranged from a maximum of 100 to 110 tonnes in 2000.

6 Source: CITES 9

Tab 10: Main Caviar Suppliers to EU

Tonnes Average price Euros/kg Total official data 302 tonnes 189 Possible flow – declared <110 tonnes >410 EXTRA-EUR 81 426 INTRA-EUR <30 >400 Iran 56 468 Russia 11 309 Romania 3 667 Azerbaijan 2 450 Source: Eurostat

It may be estimated that in 2000, EU countries imported about 80 tonnes of caviar from non- EU countries, and internal trade (declared) reached a mere 30 tonnes. EU is the number one outlet for Iranian caviar, while the USA is the prominent market for Russian caviar.

Tab 11: Main EU Caviar Importers

Average price Tonnes Euros/kg Legal imports – declared <110 tonnes >410 EXTRA-EUR 81 426 Of which: from INTRA EXTRA INTRA EXTRA France 16 20 381 558 Germany 7 19 562 484 Spain 5 9 244 611 Belgium 7 1 624 584 Source: Eurostat

France is the leading national market for caviar in Europe, with declared imports estimated at 36 tonnes, in addition to a few hundred kilos of domestic caviar. Then comes Germany with approximately 25 tonnes in 2000. When considering consumption per capita, Switzerland comes first, followed by Belgium and France.

Airlines used to constitute the leading market for caviar in the world. The severe crisis of this industry some ten years ago led to subsequent cost reductions which reduced demand for this exclusive product. Whilst some 10/12 years ago, Air France used to buy 25 tonnes of caviar a year, last year it bought by and large only 1 tonne7, the bulk of which is served on Concorde

7 Source: Servair. Personal communication. 10 flights. Note that business airlines do constitute a not negligible outlet for caviar. Today high class catering (Michelin stared restaurants) represents the largest segment for caviar.

3.6 Farmed Sturgeon and Caviar

Production of farmed sturgeon has been growing over the last decade and reached almost 3 000 tonnes in 2000 (FAO). The main producers are the Russian Federation (2 050 tonnes), Italy (550 tonnes), Poland (250 tonnes), Spain (140 tonnes) and France (90 tonnes). In addition to production of sturgeon as food fish, both French and Italian companies have now managed to farm sturgeon from which caviar can be extracted and marketed. The main suppliers are Sturgeon and Ecloserie de Guyenne in France, and Agroittica Lombarda in Italy. Although total output is still limited, between 15 and 20 tonnes per year, aquaculture provides a ready source of “guilt-free” caviar to environmentally conscious consumers.

Summary

Main Supplying Countries Iran, Russia, Kazakhstan. In 2001, these tree countries landed and exported more than 95% of total world caviar8 made from wild fish. Note the growing supplies of caviar from farmed sturgeon. France, the leading supplier is forecasted to sell over 8 tonnes of caviar in 2002. Italy is ready to market 5 tonnes this year. In addition, a few hundred kilos should be marketed by Germany and Spain, two emerging supplying nations.

Intermediary and Final Products Two processing forms: fresh, (<5% salt, 2 to 2.5 months shelf-life) and pasteurized (5% salt, 8 months shelf-life when packed in glass jars and 10 to 12 months shelf-life when in tins) Three quality grades: granular fresh or pasteurised, pressed (payusnaya) and jastichnaya Three different types according to species. Beluga (the most expensive) sold in blue box, Osetra sold in yellow box and Sevruga sold in red box

Countries of Consumption France, Germany and Spain are the leading caviar markets in the EU. Switzerland has the highest per capita consumption in Europe.

Mains Characteristics Top delicacy that gets stellar prices (several thousands Euros per kilo) Catch and trade are strictly regulated Important illegal fishing, manufacturing and trade Increasing supply of caviar originating in farmed sturgeon (A. baerii from France, A. transmontanus from Italy, A. gueldenstraedti from Bulgaria)

8 Source: CITES 11

CITES Universal Labelling System for the identification of caviar entering international trade (in order to discourage illegal trade) Europe absorbs mainly fresh caviar. Yet, demand for cheaper pasteurised caviar is growing.

4. COD ROE

4.1 Fish and Product Presentation

Atlantic cod Gadus morhua

Source: FAO

FAO Names

EN - Atlantic cod; FR - Morue de l'Atlantique; SP - Bacalao del Atlántico;

Local Names

Canada: Cod. Denmark: Torsk. France: Morue. Germany: Dorsch, Kabeljau. Norway: Skrei, Torsk. UK: Cod. USA: Cod. Former USSR: Treska

Atlantic cod is fished throughout the year in the North Atlantic. Major fishing grounds are boreo-arctic, mostly around Iceland, in the Barents Sea, off Newfoundland and West Greenland, in the Norwegian Sea, off Spitzbergen, and around Bear Island. Although the spawning period varies among the North Atlantic subpopulations, most cod in the eastern and western parts of this ocean spawn from December to June, i.e., Norwegian coast, from February to April; Baltic Sea, April to July; North Sea, December to May; Gulf of Maine, November to April; Newfoundland, April to June;

West Greenland, March to June; and south-western Gulf of St. Lawrence, May to September. The largest producing countries are Iceland (238 000 tonnes in 2000), Norway (220 000 tonnes) and Russia (171 000 tonnes)9.

Fig 1: Cod Geographic Distribution

Source: FAO/FIGIS

4.2 Origin of roe and production conditions

Production of cod has declined sharply and continuously over the past thirty years, from over 3 million tonnes in 1970 to less than 1 million tonnes in 2000. The roes may constitute as much as 10% or more of the weight of ripe female cod.

9 Source: FAO Fishstat plus 14

Fig 2: World Production of Atlantic Cod, million tonnes

3,5

3,0

2,5

2,0

1,5

1,0

0,5

0,0

70 72 74 76 78 80 82 84 86 88 90 92 94 96 98 00 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 0 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2

Source: FAO Fishstat plus

The major world producers of cod roes are Iceland and Norway.

Tab 12: Norwegian Production of Cod Roe, in tonnes

1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 Total Production 3 489 4 124 4 345 2 399 2 284 2 666 Skrei roes (Lofoten fish) 1 422 1 749 2 161 1 220 1 175 1 030 Torsk roes (Other cod fish) 2 067 2 375 2 184 1 179 1 109 1 636 Source: Norges Råfisklag

4.3 Product Presentation: Raw product/processing/end product(s)

Cod roes are processed and utilised by end users in many different ways. Whatever end utilisation, cod roes should be handled and washed carefully as to make the product free from pieces of intestine and traces of blood.

In production localities, fresh cod roes are considered a delicacy. It can be boiled and eaten cold, or fried or grilled.

The bulk is cold stored or frozen prior to undergoing a further process (salting, smoking, canning, packing, etc.).

Smoked cod roe Prior to being smoked, cod roe (fresh or frozen) should be salted, by brining or by dry-salting. Then roes are cold smoked. During this process, losses in weight range from 20% to 30%. Whole pockets of smoked cod roes may be sold as such, in vacuum packs. Broken pockets are used for making paste-like items such as tarama.

Traditional tarama (the Greek word for “fish egg”) is a mixture of smoked cod roes and oil. Other ingredients such as bread, lemon juice, garlic, and pepper may be added. Industrialist- made tarama incorporates 20% to 50% cod roes. Fancy tarama have been recently created by seafood processors, including tarama with salmon roe, tarama with trout roe, tarama with sea- urchin roes, etc. Tarama, recently introduced on an industrial scale, is becoming increasingly popular among European consumers.

Tarama is either sold to restaurants in large plastic buckets (1kg) or retailed in small 100g or 200g, 250g containers.

Scandinavian Kaviar in tube Cod roes in tube are quite a common food product in Scandinavia. Launched in the mid fifties by food processors it has since gained popularity amongst Nordic consumers, though it has not yet conquered the rest of Europe. Cod roe in tube is made of sugar-salted roes, which may or may not be cold smoked. It is usually retailed in 175g or 250g tubes. This product is not pasteurised, but the high salt content secures a long shelflife, when stored at low temperatures (0°C - +4°C).

„Mom says kaviar is healthy, funny I like it anyway” said an advertisement for Norwegian Mills kaviar in tube in the mid fifties.

This is a typical Scandinavian product with Sweden being the number one market, followed by Norway and Finland.

Kavli, the Norwegian kaviar-in-tube producer sells three different products:

Kaviar with dill Ingredients: sugar-salted cod roes (51%), vegetable oil, sugar, dill, salt, conserving agent (E211, E202), potato flour, stabilising agent (E410), colouring agent (E160c), dill aroma.

Slightly smoked Kaviar Ingredients: Sugar-salted and smoked cod roes (51%), vegetable oil, sugar, salt, conserving agent (E211, E202), potato flour, stabilising agent (E410), colouring agent (E160c).

Kaviar with a strong “Swedish” taste Ingredients: sugar-salted cod roes (51%), vegetable oil, sugar, salt, conserving agent (E211, E202), potato flour, stabilising agent (E410), dill, dill aroma, colouring agent (E160c).

Norwegians are the leading producers of sugar-salted cod roe, which is necessary for making kaviar-in-tube.

Tab 13: Norwegian Production of Sugar Salted Cod Roe, in tonnes

1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 337 378 744 419 387 690 Source: Norges Råfisklag

Canned cod roe Both whole and broken roes are suitable for canning but eggs need to be separated from the skin and any membrane. Further to cleaning, eggs are mixed with water and salt. Empty cans are first sprayed on the inside with peanut oil to prevent the content sticking to the can. The can is then filled with the mixture. Cans are subsequently sealed and heat-processed. The result of such a process, slight pink in colour, is firm. It can be easily sliced to be grilled or fried without breaking10.

4.4 Retail Price Indications

Below are given retail price ranges observed during the first semester of 2002.

Smoked cod roe, vacuum packed: 30 to 40 Euros/kg Tarama price depends upon the content of cod roe; the more cod roe the more expensive. A 20% to 25% cod roe based is retailed at less than 15 Euros/kg (small plastic container) Kaviar in tube is retailed at about 10 Euros per kilo

4.5 Trade

The main producers of fresh and frozen cod roe are Iceland and Norway.

10 Source: www.officer.dk 17

Icelandic exports of cod roe vary from one to three thousands tonnes a year depending on landings.

Tab 14: Icelandic Exports of Cod Roe

Roes exports Cod production, Cod roes export/ Roes Export Euros/kilo tonnes tonnes production Million Euros 1990 2901 333348 0.87% 7.2 2.48 1991 2822 306697 0.92% 7.9 2.80 1992 2420 266684 0.91% 5.4 2.23 1993 1630 260544 0.63% 3.7 2.27 1994 1153 214749 0.54% 3.2 2.78 1995 914 202900 0.45% 2.7 2.95 1996 1189 204058 0.58% 3.8 3.20 1997 1434 208636 0.69% 4.3 3.00 1998 1537 242968 0.63% 4.1 2.67 1999 1903 260643 0.73% 5.2 2.73 2000 2438 238324 1.02% 8.9 3.65 Source: Iceland National Economic Statistics, FAO

Some cod milt also goes onto the food market in Japan (very fresh, in sashimi or tempura) but not in Europe. The bulk of European landings – when not tossed over board at sea - are purchased by the cosmetic industry. This product, very rich in DNA is utilised to prepare soaps and shampoo. It is used to prepare livestock feed as well.

Summary

Main Supplying Countries Roes from cod are taken during the first months each year. Main suppliers include Norway, Iceland and Denmark.

Intermediary and Final Products Cod roe undergoes several processes. It is traded and consumed in different shapes. Fresh roe may be consumed locally by the coastal population, either boiled, fried or grilled. On board fishing vessels or on-land, roe may be salted or sugar-salted and stored in barrels. Fresh or frozen roe may be cold smoked to be sold as such (vacuum packed or not) or to be further processed into “spreadables” such as tarama and kaviar-in-tube. Canned roe is made from frozen whole or broken sacs. Cod milt is not consumed in Europe.

Countries of Consumption Canned roe is mostly consumed in the Nordic countries.

Roe in tube (smoked/unsmoked) is a Scandinavian delicacy. The famous Greek-inspired recipe tarama is consumed mostly in Greece and France.

Mains Characteristics Quite fragile, cod roes require proper handling on board vessels and speedy preparation upon reception on land. Whole pockets constitute the first quality grade, whilst broken sacs are second grade. Cod roe is consumed all over Europe in different recipes.

Other Whitefish Roe

Consumption of other whitefish roe is rather limited.

Hake roe is marketed in Spain, especially in the Andalusia region, sold either fresh or frozen. It is mainly aimed at the food service sector (hotels and restaurants) where it is served fried.

Ling roe and swordfish roe may be imported frozen in order to be salted and dried in order to prepare bottarga-type products (please see the “mullet roe” section).

5. LUMPFISH ROE

5.1 Fish and Product Presentation

Lumpus vulgaris or Cyclopterus lumpus

Source: FAO

FAO Names

EN - Lumpfish; FR - Lompe; SP - Liebre de mar.

Local Names

English: Krark-varrey, Lumpfish, Lumpsucker. Danish: Almindelig stenbider, Kulso, Kvabso, Stenbider. French: Lompe. German: Seehase. Greenlandic: Angusalluk, Arnarluk, Nipisa. Icelandic: Hrognkelsi. Italian: Ciclottero, Lompo. Norwegian: Lutefisk, Rognkall, Rognkjaeks. Portuguese: Peixe-lapa. Spanish: Ciclóptero, Lumpo. Swedish: Kvabbso, Lutfisk, Sjurygg, Stenbit.

5.2 Origin of Roe and Production Conditions

Lumpfish is a North Atlantic species. Total catch reported by FAO for 2000 was 8 864 tonnes, of which leading suppliers are Iceland (2 458 tonnes), Greenland (3 000 tonnes) and Norway (2 374 tonnes).

Fig 3: Lumpfish Geographic Distribution

Source: FAO/FIGIS

Fish roes are usually removed from the female fish on board the fishing vessel and stored in barrels prior to being sold to the processing units. Salt (10%), sugar and occasionally preservative sodium benzoate (bensoat) are added to roes in barrels, depending on the final market. Icelanders do not add sugar. In 2001 in Norway, 72% of all roes were salted on board the fishing vessels, and 8% were sugar-salted.

Tab 15: Norwegian Landings in 2001

Fresh/frozen For processing Salted Sugar/salted 8.30% 11.50% 72.20% 8.00% Source: Norges Råfisklag

Lumpfish is valued for their eggs only which make inexpensive caviar. Each fish can produce up to 700 grams of roe. Female lumpfish meat is loose and gelatinous, while the male lumpfish meat is firmer, with a pink colour and is very savoury. In Iceland, dried lumpfish is a delicacy11.

11 Source: EFF, Norway 21

Tab 16: Lumpfish World Production, in tonnes

18000

16000

14000

12000

10000

8000

6000

4000

2000

8 0 2 4 70 72 74 76 7 8 8 8 86 88 90 92 94 96 98 00 9 9 9 19 19 19 19 19 19 19 19 19 19 1 1 1 19 19 20

Source: FAO – Fishstat plus

World production of lumpfish roe varies greatly according to lumpfish landings. Considering that the roe constitutes about 25% of total fish weight, production of raw roes in the past ten years ranged from 2 500 tonnes to 5 000 tonnes.

Fig 4: Total Landings of Lumpfish Roe, number of barrels and tonnes (equivalent)

49,785

36 709 barrels 36,439 35,086 35,709 33,509 29,426

24,600 23,212 21,500

3854 5227 tonnes 3826 3684 3749 3518 3090 2258 2437 2583

1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001

Source: Personal communication, National Association of small boat owners, Iceland

The market is supplied by five countries: Canada, Iceland, Norway, Greenland and Denmark.

Tab 17: Landings by Countries: number of barrels

Iceland Canada Norway Denmark Greenland total 1992 13 000 15 381 4 528 2 800 1 000 36 709 1993 9 000 17 919 5 720 2 800 1 000 36 439 1994 11 662 12 866 7 058 2 500 1 000 35 086 1995 11 259 10 010 4 657 2 500 1 000 29 426 1996 10 433 9 876 5 300 9 100 1 000 35 709 1997 13 385 17 800 7 300 10 300 1 000 49 785 1998 6 500 10 500 2 000 200 2 300 21 500 1999 6 817 17 700 2 492 3 300 3 200 33 509 2000 4 900 11 000 2 712 1 500 3 100 23 212 2001 6 700 6 500 6 100 1 000 4 300 24 600 % in 2001 27% 26% 25% 4% 17% 100% % over period 29% 40% 15% 11% 6% 100% Source: Personal communication, National Association of small boat owners, Iceland

Fig 5: Total Landings by Countries

100%

80%

60%

40%

20%

Iceland Canada Norway Denmark Greenland 0% 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001

Average world demand for lumpfish roe totals some 30 to 32 000 barrels per year, equivalent to 3 150 to 3 350 tonnes of lumpfish roe.

Tab 18: Norway’s Production of Lumpfish Roe

1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 tonnes 637 828 203 305 351 780 Ex-vessel prices NOK/kg 48.5 46.1 34.8 31.5 27.2 29.0 Source: Norges Raafisklaget

5.3 Product Presentation: Raw product/processing/end product(s)

Lumpfish roe is naturally pale in colour, but dyed red or black prior to selling. On the European market, about two thirds are sold in black (as caviar substitute) and one third in red. Salt added to roes vary from a mere 4% to over 10%. This is considered a key element to quality. The more salt, the higher the preservation properties, but the lower the taste.

Lumpfish roe is dominantly retailed in small size glass jars (50g, 100g). The product may also be pasteurised (40% of total market). Common preservatives used are E 211 and E 202. Spices may be added at request.

5.4 Retail Price Indications

Below are retail prices observed during the first semester of 2002.

Whatever their colour, black, red or natural, lumpfish roes cost the same, approximately 20 to 30 Euros per kilo.

5.5 Trade Data

The European market is said to represent 80% of world demand, and France with about 30% is the number one market.

Tab 19: Icelandic Exports of Lumpfish Roe

Export of unprocessed Export of processed lumpfish roe lumpfish roe (caviar substitute) tonnes Million Euros tonnes Million Euros 1990 703 2.1 1991 745 2.9 1992 617 2.7 1993 387 2.3 1994 526 3.3 1995 534 4.2 1996 434 3.7 1997 457 3.6 846 9.3 1998 149 0.9 993 8.9 1999 263 1.0 1 154 9.0 2000 195 0.8 1 074 7.8 Source: Iceland National Institute of Economics

Summary

Main Supplying Countries Iceland, Norway, Canada and USA are the main suppliers of lumpfish roe used by the industry. Sweden, and more recently Canada and Iceland are world suppliers of end-products (roe in glass jars).

Intermediary and Final Products Lumpfish roe is stored in brine and packed in glass jars.

Main Characteristics Lumpfish roe is consumed all over Europe, in limited quantities. France is by far the largest consuming country of lumpfish roe. In all countries, lumpfish roe is used on canapés and in seafood salads. Demand is rather stable, yet supply varies according to catches. Prices fluctuate accordingly.

It is mainly used for making canapés. Lumpfish roe is sold red or black. Introduction of colourant-free roe has not been successful.

6. POUTARGUE – MULLET ROE AND TUNA ROE

6.1 Fish and Product Presentation

Mugil cephalus

Source: FAO

FAO Names

EN - Flathead grey mullet; FR - Mulet à grosse tête; SP - Pardete;

Local Names

Arabic: Anubah, Araaby, Asfatiya, Beyah Biah, Biyah, Bouchkfa, Bouri, Gawafa, Gutarana. Danish: Multe, Storhovedet multe. Dutch: Diklipharder. English: Black mullet, Bully mullet, Common grey mullet, Flathead mullet, Grey mullet, Hardgut mullet, Sea mullet, Striped mullet. French: Muge cabot, Mulet cabot, Poisson queue bleue. German: Grosskopf. Greek: Cephalos, Képhalos. Icelandic: Röndungur. Italian: Cefalo, Cefalo mazzone, Muggine. Portuguese: Mugem, Tainha cabeça achatada. Spanish: Capitón, Galupe, Lisa común, Lisa pardete, Mújol, Mugil común, Pardete.

6.2 Origin of Roe and Production Conditions

Mullet (Mugil cephalus) is a very versatile fish found in both tropical and temperate waters of the Atlantic (from the Bay of Biscay southward, also the whole of the Mediterranean and Black Seas), the Pacific and the Indian Ocean. The total catch reported for this species to FAO for 2000 was 29 335 tonnes. The countries with the largest catches were Korea, Mexico, Venezuela and Tunisia. Mullet roe is sold fresh, frozen or dried/smoked.

Fig 6: Mullet Geographic Distribution

Source: FAO/ FIGIS

6.3 Product Presentation: Raw product/processing/end product(s)

Production of dried salted mullet in Europe dates back to the Phoenicians. During the Middle Ages, the Arabs spread the use of so-called bottarga or dried-salted mullet roe through the Mediterranean basin. This item became a precious food item and currency for exchanges. Today, the end product carries a strong image of a traditional luxury item.

Mullet roe is either sold chilled or frozen as raw material for being further processed into dried- salted roe, named bottarga12 in Italy and poutargue in France.

The mullet's eggs, after being extracted from the fish and still in their protective sacs, are washed and purified, put under salt, rinsed and laid to dry in storing rooms. The dried eggs are then pressed. They may receive a thin layer of bee wax for protection. The colour of the roe, after processing, ranges from yellow-gold to dark amber. Bottarga is sold by pieces (unbroken sacs) and may be vacuum packed.

Beside the whole roe sac, it is possible to find bottarga paste, made of grated dried bottarga packed in glass jars or bottarga slices, vacuum packed.

Tuna bottarga, mainly produced in Italy, is processed with the same method. The output is said to be less delicate, yet it receives the attention of connoisseurs all over the Mediterranean coast.

Southern Italy including Sardinia and Sicily are core regions for mullet and tuna bottarga production. Bottarga is a typical item that the tourists visiting these regions bring back home as a souvenir, and the dish is also found in Sardinian and Sicilian restaurants on the Continent.

12 The term Bottarga, comes from the Arabic bot-ah-rik, meaning "raw fish eggs". 28

6.4 Retail Price Indications

Bottarga prices vary according to the size of the roe sack (the bigger the more expensive) and the final presentation (whole sac or grated)

Mullet roe prices range from 70 Euros (less than 100g sac) to 150 Euros (>200g). Grated mullet roe (in glass jar) retail at about 70 to 100 Euros.

Tuna bottarga is cheaper than mullet bottarga. It retails at 50 to 100 Euros. Prices for grated dried tuna roes range from 50 to 80 Euros.

6.5 Trade Data (European imports), by countries

Frozen raw mullet and tuna roe is imported mainly by France and Italy, to be further processed into bottarga in local plants. Main supplying countries for frozen raw roes are Mauritania, Mexico and Taiwan Province of China.

Summary

Main Supplying Countries Frozen mullet roe is imported from many different countries. Italy, France and Spain are the main producers of bottarga.

Intermediary and Final Products Frozen sacs of roe are imported for further processing in Europe. Mullet roe sacs are salted and dried. They may be dipped into bee wax for getting a protective layer. End product may be vacuum packed. Tuna roes (yellowfin, bigeye) may be processed the same way.

Countries of Consumption Italy, France and Spain (South East) are the leading consuming countries. Note that consumption is not widespread. It is concentrated to certain regions (Sardinia, Sicily, Southern Italy, Andalusia, Southern France, etc.) or ethnic communities (Mediterranean population in large cities such as Paris), but the product is steadily gaining popularity as a typical regional delicacy.

7. HERRING ROE

7.1 Fish and Product Presentation

Herring roe is mainly from Atlantic herring Clupea harengus (see drawing) and Pacific herring Clupea pallasii.

Atlantic herring Clupea harengus

Source: FAO/FIGIS

FAO names

EN - Atlantic herring; FR - Hareng de l’Atlantique; SP - Arenque del Atlántico

Both eggs (female roes) and milt (male seminal fluid) are to some extent collected and traded.

7.2 Origin of Roe and Production Conditions

After a strong reduction of the total catch in the late seventies (from over 4 million tonnes in 1966 to less than 1 million tonnes in 1979) due to overfishing, Atlantic herring catches have recovered to more than two million tonnes.

The largest European producers are Norway (800 000 tonnes in 2000) and Iceland (288 000 tonnes).

Landings of Pacific herring have similarly fluctuated over the period, from over 600 000 tonnes to less than 200 000 tonnes.

Fig 7: Atlantic and Pacific Herring Production, in tonnes

3000000

Atlantic herring Pacific herring

2000000

1000000

0 2 4 8 0 2 4 8 0 2 4 6 8 0 7 7 76 7 8 8 86 8 9 9 9 9 0 97 9 98 9 99 19 1 19 1 19 19 1 19 1 19 19 1 19 19 19 20

Source: FAO Fishstat plus

7.3 Product Presentation: Raw product/processing/end product(s)

Herring roe is a delicacy in Japan, a market which attracts most of the world’s production.

In Europe, herring roe is mostly consumed during the production season by local fishing communities. Herring roe is deeply rooted in tradition of coastal communities who for ages have been watching the herring coming near the shores to spawn. During that season, the roe may be eaten together with the fish (fried), or removed and cooked separately.

Soft herring roe on toast is still a traditional delicacy served at British breakfast. John West offers a 125g tin of soft roes, commonly retailed at about 1 GBP.

In addition, some herring eggs prepared in caviar style (lightly salted and dyed in black) can be found on the market, under the denomination Avruga. Even if this item is quite rare, several processors see in it both a cheap substitute to genuine caviar and an attractive new seafood item.

Herring milt also exists as a niche product in some markets.

8. CAPELIN ROE

8.1 Fish and Product Presentation

Capelin Mallotus villosus

Source: FAO FAO Names EN - Capelin; FR - Capelan; SP - Capelán

Local names English: Capelin. Japanese: Karafuto-shishamo. French: Capelan Atlantique. Norwegian: Lodde. German: Lodde. Russian: Moiva. Greenlander: Angmagssak. Swedish: Lodde. Icelandic: Lodna.

8.2 Origin of Roe and Production Conditions

Fig 8: Capelin Geographic Distribution

Source: FAO/FIGIS

Tab 20: Capelin World Production, in tonnes

5000000

4000000

3000000

2000000

1000000

70 73 76 79 82 85 88 91 94 97 00 9 19 1 19 19 19 19 19 19 19 19 20

Source: FAO Fishstat

Capelin, like most other pelagic fish, is an easy prey for modern purse seiners. Short after the introduction of purse-seining in the North Atlantic, this species was overfished, with a decline in capture from over 3 million tonnes (1976, 1977) down to less than 1 million tonnes (1989, 1990).

8.3 Product Presentation: Raw product/processing/end product(s)

Japan is the world’s number one market for capelin roe. Consequently, capelin roe produced in Northern European countries, is processed according to Japanese consumer preferences.

For the European market, capelin roe is processed in the same way as lumpfish roe. Stirred in brine, they are packed in small sized glass jars. The bulk is sold with its natural colour.

Being a cheap raw product (half the price of lumpfish roe), it is seen by processors as an alternative raw product. During the 2002 Brussels seafood show (European Seafood Exposition), several preparations incorporating capelin roes were presented (Italian and French producers).

The European market for this product is still in its infancy and estimated at 100 tonnes at the most.

8.4 Retail Price Indications

During 2002’s first semester, black, red or natural capelin roe (no spices) retailed at about 30 to 40 Euros/kg.

9. SALMON ROE AND TROUT ROE

9.1 Fish and Product Presentation

Commonly called red caviar, salmon roe is processed in similar ways as sturgeon roe. It is traded and consumed as “malossol” (“little salt”).

9.2 Origin of Roe and Production Conditions

The bulk of salmon roe originates in the USA (Alaska, Washington State), Canada and Russia. Eggs are taken from net-caught wild salmon. In Alaska, the production season starts in July and ends in September. In Washington State it runs from September to December.

9.3 Product Presentation: Raw Product/processing/end product(s)

Chilled eggs make a premium quality product. Frozen eggs can be processed into “red caviar” as well. Eggs are gently manipulated to be separated from the placenta and to remove all membrane. When they are clean, 4 to 4.5% salt is added. They are then packed in plastic buckets. The quicker the process after landing the better the end product will be. It goes from a few hours to three days.

Buckets of salmon roe in brine are further bought by packers who re-pack salmon roe into small glass jars (pasteurised items). Most common retail containers contain 30g, 50g and 100g of product. For the catering segment salmon roe is packed in larger plastic containers. Salmon roe may be smoked prior to further marketing. Keta salmon Oncorhynchus keta, with its large bright orange-red grains, is the most common of all. Salmon roe is consumed as canapés, or may be incorporated as garnish on cold or warm dishes.

Salmon eggs are a rich source of vitamins, nucleic acids, phospholipids and proteins are utilised in the cosmetic industry. Salmon roe extracts are in themselves a source of marine DNA, a key elemen t to skin cell regeneration and they are utilised in the preparation of skin protective cream.

9.4 Retail Price Indications

Salmon roe retails at prices ranging from 80 to 200 Euros per kilo.

9.5 Trade Data

Japan provides the largest market for salmon roe in the world. In Japan, the 4 000 tonnes estimated consumption include slightly salted eggs (ikura) or very salted whole sacs (sujiko). The European market follows the Japanese one with its estimated consumption of 300 to 400 tonnes13.

Europe’s largest national market for salmon roe is Germany, which imported 114 tonnes in 2001, of which 106 tonnes from the USA. France provides the second largest European market for salmon roe.

9.6 Trout roe

The processing method of trout roe is similar to that of salmon roe. Trout roe as raw material is produced by European aquaculture farmers. They do the brining and packing of roes into small size pasteurised glass jars, or sell the roe to processors for re-packing. According to connoisseurs, trout roe has a different taste and different texture compared to salmon roe. Trout roe catches lower prices, being retailed at 50 to 80 Euros per kilo. The main market is Germany.

Salmon and trout roe have more versatile uses than lumpfish roe. They are either used for making canapés, incorporated in salads, or they may be used as garnish on cold and warm dishes.

13 Source: Le Grand et Malo trader 35

10. SEA-URCHIN GONADS (ROE)

10.1 Sea-urchin and Product Presentation

Several species are traded and consumed in Europe.

Paracentrotus lividus, from France (Atlantic and Mediterranean coasts), Ireland and Morocco. Purple, brown sea urchin, belongs to the Mediterranean and “Provençal” culinary traditions. (Average size 4-5 cm, 3 cm long spines).

Sphaerechinus granularis, collected along the Atlantic coast, mainly in France and the Netherlands, are purple or white.

Psammechinus miliaris, from France (Atlantic coast). Not available in the Mediterranean Sea; mainly in Brittany, (Channel coast) (average size 4 to 6 cm; 1.5 cm long spines). Green or brown colour, it is the most appreciated and the most expensive.

Strongylocentrotus droebachiensis from Iceland, Norway

Loxechinus albus from Chile

10.2 Origin of Roe and Production Conditions

Sea-urchins are traded live or frozen (roe).

Sea-urchins from Continental Europe are traded and consumed live, whilst some shipments of frozen gonads are imported from Iceland and Chile, the two major supplying countries.

10.3 Product Presentation: Raw product/processing/end product(s)

The three species captured in Europe are sold as whole live products to wholesalers and then to retailers or caterers. They are packed in wooden boxes (3kg, 5kg, and 10kg). They are consumed raw by end users.

Icelandic Strongylocentrotu s droebachiensis and Chilean Loxechinus albus are imported deep- frozen. Frozen gonads are destined for the processing industry and marginally the food service sector (restaurants). Tarama14 producers are the largest users of sea-urchin “coral”. Most of them have developed specific recipes incorporating sea urchin gonads.

When consumed in other than live form, sea-urchins are dominantly utilised to prepare a sea- urchin-taste sauce. Chefs, households and some processors use it for that purpose. Restaurants use frozen (and preserved) products for sauces.

14 See cod roe section. 36

This product is commonly sold in 50g, 60g or 180g glass jars or tins. It is either sterilised (6 months to 12 months shelf life at 0° to 2° Celsius) or pasteurised (2 years shelf life). In addition, some sterilised or pasteurised products are imported from Morocco (glass jars), Spain (tin) and Chile (tin).

10.4 Price Indications

In the Paris wholesale market, live sea-urchin prices range from 20 Euros/kg for Psammechinus miliaris, and 10 Euros for Paracentrotus lividus.

Wholesale prices for 1kg frozen sea-urchin batch are about 30/35 Euros.

Retail prices for pasteurised sea-urchin in glass jars are about 100 to 120 Euros/kg

10.5 Trade Data (European imports), by countries

Specific trade data are not available. Sea-urchins in international trade statistics are included with other seafood products.

Trading Code and Product Description 030791 Live, fresh or chilled molluscs, with or without shell not elsewhere specified, including sea-urchins, sea cucumbers and other aquatic invertebrates (excl. crustaceans) 03079918 Frozen molluscs, fit for human consumption, with or without shell, not elsewhere specified including sea-urchins, sea cucumbers and other aquatic invertebrates other than crustaceans; frozen flours, meals and pellets of aquatic invertebrates (other than crustaceans), fit for human consumption 16059090 Sea-urchins, sea cucumbers, jellyfish and other aquatic invertebrates, prepared or preserved (Excl. molluscs).

Summary

Main Supplying Countries Both domestic production (France, Spain) and imported live and frozen items are available on the market.

Intermediary and Final Products Sea-urchins may be consumed live. Fresh or frozen gonads are used in sauces or may be added to specialty recipes.

Countries of Consumption France and Spain are leading consuming countries

ANNEX 1: 2002 CATCH AND EXPORT QUOTAS FOR ACIPENSERIFORMES SPECIES

Species Quotas (kg) Remarks Azerbaijan Other quotas for Azerbaijan for fisheries conducted in the national territory of the Russian Federation appear under the entries for that country. Azerbaijan has informed the Secretariat of amounts from export quotas for the year 2001 that were not exported in that year and details of these amounts can be obtained from the Secretariat. Acipenser gueldenstaedtii . Caspian Sea Catch 30 700 Total (Cura River stock) Export 2 770 Caviar Acipenser nudiventris . Caspian Sea Catch 0 . Export 0 . Acipenser stellatus . Caspian Sea Catch 26 300 Total (Cura River stock) Export 2 470 Caviar Huso huso . Caspian Sea Catch 5 500 Total (Cura River stock) Export 530 Caviar Bulgaria Acipenser gueldenstaedtii . Danube River (Black Sea basin) Catch 400 Total Export 20 Caviar 200 Caviar from aquaculture 1 000 Meat from aquaculture Acipenser ruthenus . Danube River (Black Sea basin) Catch 1 500 Total Export 0 . Huso huso . Danube River (Black Sea basin) Catch 21 000 Total

Export 1 720 Caviar 5 000 Meat 5 Fertilized eggs Canada Acipenser fulvescens . Great Lakes-St Lawrence drainage Catch 105 776 Total Export 500 Caviar 170 000 Meat 1 000 Live fish from aquaculture Acipenser oxyrhynchus . Atlantic coast Catch 73 608 Total Export 500 Caviar 58 000 Meat 1 000 Live fish from aquaculture China . China has informed the Secretariat of amounts from export quotas for the year 2001 that were not exported in that year and details of these amounts can be obtained from the Secretariat. Acipenser schrencki . Amur River Catch in preparation Total Export in preparation Caviar Huso dauricus Amur River Catch in preparation Total Export in preparation Caviar Czech Republic Acipenser baerii . . Export 50 000 Fingerlings from aquaculture (no. of specimens) Acipenser gueldenstaedtii . . Export 250 000 Fingerlings from aquaculture (no. of specimens) Acipenser ruthenus . . Export 310 000 Fingerlings from aquaculture (no. of specimens) Acipenser ruthenus x Huso . . huso

Export 200 000 Fingerlings from aquaculture (no. of specimens) Acipenser stellatus . . Export 50 000 Fingerlings from aquaculture (no. of specimens) Huso huso . . Export 150 000 Fingerlings from aquaculture (no. of specimens) Polyodon spathula . . Export 100 000 Fingerlings from aquaculture (no. of specimens) Hungary Acipenser ruthenus . . Export 100 Fertilized eggs from aquaculture 5 000 Fingerlings from aquaculture Iran (Islamic Republic of) . The Islamic Republic of Iran has informed the Secretariat of amounts from export quotas for the year 2001 that were not exported in that year and details of these amounts can be obtained from the Secretariat. Acipenser gueldenstaedtii . Caspian Sea Catch 20 475 Total Export 2 100 Caviar Acipenser nudiventris . Caspian Sea Catch 15 963 Total Export 0 . Acipenser persicus . Caspian Sea Catch 467 422 Total Export 55 890 Caviar 150 000 Meat 4 000 Skins (no. of specimens) Acipenser stellatus . Caspian Sea Catch 96 375 Total Export 14 827 Caviar 30 000 Meat 500 Skins (no. of specimens)

Huso huso . Caspian Sea Catch 85 555 Total Export 2 950 Caviar 60 000 Meat 500 Skins (no. of specimens) Acipenser gueldenstaedtii, . . A. nudiventris, A. persicus, A. stellatus and H. huso (mixed) Export 1 000 Pressed caviar 500 Glue (derived from swim bladders, also known as isinglass) Kazakhstan . Amounts of specimens from the 2001 quota that have been registered with the Secretariat before 15 January 2002 are included in export quotas for 2002. Amounts of specimens allocated to Turkmenistan will be withdrawn unless that country participates in the next stock assessment survey in 2002. Acipenser gueldenstaedtii . Caspian Sea (Ural River stock) Catch 44 700 Total (including 2 800 kg allocated to Turkmenistan) Export 4 880 Caviar (including 280 kg allocated to Turkmenistan and 400 kg from the export quota for the year 2001) 22 350 Meat (including 850 kg allocated to Turkmenistan) Acipenser nudiventris . Caspian Sea (Ural River stock) Catch 3 000 Total Export 409 Caviar (including 409 kg from the export quota for the year 2001) 650 Meat (including 650 kg from the export quota for the year 2001) Acipenser stellatus . Caspian Sea (Ural River stock) Catch 172 700 Total (including 27 800 kg allocated to Turkmenistan) Export 19 770 Caviar (including 2 780 kg allocated to Turkmenistan and 2 490 kg from the export quota for the year 2001)

Export 96 270 Meat (including 13 900 kg allocated to Turkmenistan and 9 920 kg from the export quota for the year 2001) Huso huso . Caspian Sea (Ural River stock) Catch 51 300 Total (including 3 400 kg allocated to Turkmenistan) Export 5 956 Caviar (including 340 kg allocated to Turkmenistan and 816 kg from the export quota for the year 2001) 25 650 Meat (including 1 700 kg allocated to Turkmenistan) Romania . Romania has informed the Secretariat of amounts from export quotas for the year 2001 that were not exported in that year and details of these amounts can be obtained from the Secretariat. Acipenser gueldenstaedtii . Danube River (Black Sea basin) Catch 13 800 Total Export 1 200 Caviar 6 000 Meat 5 Fertilized eggs Acipenser ruthenus . Danube River (Black Sea basin) Catch 500 Total Export 0 . Acipenser stellatus . Danube River (Black Sea basin) Catch 17 000 Total Export 1 470 Caviar 3 000 Meat 5 Fertilized eggs Huso huso . Danube River (Black Sea basin) Catch 25 000 Total (including 1 000 kg live fish for aquaculture) Export 2 180 Caviar 14 000 Meat 5 Fertilized eggs

Russian Federation . Amounts of specimens from the 2001 quota that have been registered with the Secretariat before 15 January 2002 are included in export quotas for 2002. Amounts of specimens allocated to Turkmenistan will be withdrawn unless that country participates in the next stock assessment survey in 2002. Acipenser baerii . (Note: Not subject to Decisión 11.58) Export 500 Caviar Acipenser gueldenstaedtii . Caspian Sea Catch 240 000 Total (including 12 860 kg allocated to Azerbaijan and 15 550 kg allocated to Turkmenistan) Export 28 070 Caviar (including 1 300 kg allocated to Azerbaijan and 1 600 kg allocated to Turkmenistan and 9 370 kg from the export quota for the year 2001) 100 000 Meat (including 6 000 kg allocated to Azerbaijan and 8 000 kg allocated to Turkmenistan) Acipenser gueldenstaedtii . Azov Sea Catch in preparation Total Export in preparation Caviar (including 200 kg from the export quota for the year 2001) in preparation Meat Acipenser nudiventris . Caspian Sea, Azov Sea, Black Sea Catch 0 . Export 0 . Acipenser ruthenus . Caspian Sea Catch 3 000 Total (Volga River stock) Export 100 Caviar Acipenser schrencki . Amur River Catch in preparation Total Export in preparation Caviar in preparation Meat Acipenser stellatus . Azov Sea Catch in preparation Total

Export in preparation Caviar (including 600 kg from the export quota for the year 2001) in preparation Meat Acipenser stellatus . Caspian Sea Catch 160 000 Total (including 6 760 kg allocated to Azerbaijan and 8 270 kg allocated to Turkmenistan) Export 16 850 Caviar (including 700 kg allocated to Azerbaijan and 800 kg allocated to Turkmenistan and 3 350 kg from the export quota for the year 2001) 80 000 Meat (including 3 500 kg allocated to Azerbaijan and 4 000 kg allocated to Turkmenistan Huso dauricus . Amur River Catch in preparation Total Export in preparation Caviar (including 1 300 kg from the export quota for the year 2001) in preparation Meat Huso huso . Caspian Sea Catch 35 000 Total Export 1 800 Caviar (including 300 kg from the export quota for the year 2001) 5 000 Meat United States of America Acipenser transmontanus . . Catch 4 600 Total Export 0 Caviar 3 000 Meat Yugoslavia (non-Party) Huso huso . Danube River (Black Sea basin) Catch 8 500 Total Export 700 Caviar 0 Meat 90 Fertilized eggs Source: CIPES

ANNEX 2: PRODUCT ILLUSTRATIONS

Red lumpfish roe 50g glass jar Courtesy: Abba, Sweden

Mullet roe Courtesy : Memmi, France

Yellow mullet roe Courtesy: Memmi, France

Cod roe paste Courtesy: Mills, Norway

Cod roe Courtsey: John West, UK

Capelin roe Courtesy: Lori Alden, USA www.foodsubs.com

Salmon Roe Courtesy: Lori Alden, USA www.foodsubs.com

Sturgeon caviar Courtesy: Caviar Kaspia, France

Smoked cod roe Courtesy: Blini, France

Sea-urchin tarama Courtesy: Blini, France

ANNEX 3: BIBLIOGRAPHY AND OTHER DOCUMENTATION SOURCES

Bannerman, A. M., Torry Advisrory Note N° 18, Processing cod roes, FAO in partnership with Sifar, 2001.

PERSONAL COMMUNICATIONS

Alain Laviec, Le Grand & Malo, http://perso.wanadoo.fr/legrand.malo/ Guro Pedersen, Researcher, Fiskeriforskning, Norway Ingunn Strømmesen, Norges Raafisklag, www.rafisklaget.no Juan Diego Pacheco Corrales, Herpac, S.L., www.herpac.com Eric Mezrich, Aqualande, www.aqualande.com Les Clouzioux – L’Esturgeonnière, www.caviarfrance.com Jean Paul Durincq, Servair, www.servair.fr Ralf Olofsson, Bakkavor Sweden AB, www.bakkavor.com Orn Palsson, National Association of small boat owners, Iceland Rouhangi Razavi, Caspian Tradition Caviar Knud Hays Thøgersen, Ets Jouneau, www.cruscana.fr Renzo Zanin, Agroittica Lombarda, www.agroittica.it

WEB SITES www.abba.se: Swedish producer of lumpfish roes and other fish roes www.agroittica.it www.blini.fr: tarama producer www.caviar.ru: Information server. All about the Russian caviar from Astrakhan. www.cites.org: Site of the convention on international trade in endangered species of wild fauna and flora. Comprehensive data on sturgeon fishes. www.fao.org/fi/figis/species/: FAO data base on fish www.foodsubs.com: Cook’s thesaurus for a comprehensive description (with pictures) of fish roes. www.kaspia.fr: caviar trader and retailer www.kavli.se: Swedish producer of kaviar in tube www.memmi.fr: Bottarga producer www.mills.no: Norwegian producer of kaviar in tubes www.officer.dk: cod roe and lever processor