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Cosmetic Microbiology : a Practical Approach / Edited by Philip A COSMETIC MICROBIOLOGY A Practical Approach SECOND EDITION 1453_C000.fm Page 2 Thursday, March 9, 2006 6:08 AM COSMETIC MICROBIOLOGY A Practical Approach SECOND EDITION Edited by Philip A. Geis, Ph.D. New York London Taylor & Francis is an imprint of the Taylor & Francis Group, an informa business 1453_Discl.fm Page 1 Monday, April 24, 2006 12:11 PM Published in 2006 by Taylor & Francis Group 270 Madison Avenue New York, NY 10016 © 2006 by Taylor & Francis Group, LLC No claim to original U.S. Government works Printed in the United States of America on acid-free paper 10987654321 International Standard Book Number-10: 0-8493-1453-4 (Hardcover) International Standard Book Number-13: 978-0-8493-1453-7 (Hardcover) Library of Congress Card Number 2005052137 This book contains information obtained from authentic and highly regarded sources. Reprinted material is quoted with permission, and sources are indicated. A wide variety of references are listed. Reasonable efforts have been made to publish reliable data and information, but the author and the publisher cannot assume responsibility for the validity of all materials or for the consequences of their use. No part of this book may be reprinted, reproduced, transmitted, or utilized in any form by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, now known or hereafter invented, including photocopying, microfilming, and recording, or in any information storage or retrieval system, without written permission from the publishers. For permission to photocopy or use material electronically from this work, please access www.copyright.com (http://www.copyright.com/) or contact the Copyright Clearance Center, Inc. (CCC) 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978-750-8400. CCC is a not-for-profit organization that provides licenses and registration for a variety of users. For organizations that have been granted a photocopy license by the CCC, a separate system of payment has been arranged. Trademark Notice: Product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered trademarks, and are used only for identification and explanation without intent to infringe. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Cosmetic microbiology : a practical approach / edited by Philip A. Geis.-- 2nd ed. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 0-8493-1453-4 1. Cosmetics--Microbiology. QR53.5.C76C67 2006 668'.55--dc22 2005052137 Visit the Taylor & Francis Web site at http://www.taylorandfrancis.com Taylor & Francis Group is the Academic Division of Informa plc. 1453_C000.fm Page 5 Thursday, March 9, 2006 6:08 AM Preface Cosmetics are unique products, as diverse as foods without the practical limits of controlled shelf lives; they overlap with drugs but without the near- sterile manufacturing systems enjoyed by that category of product. The microbiology of cosmetics is also a unique and arcane science and practice that, unlike food or drug microbiology, is not supported by established academic programs or a significant body of publication. Rather it is empirical — learned through experience with principles and practices rarely docu- mented in the literature. The field has few mentors beyond a small fraternity whose secrets are rarely shared. The purpose of this text is to share the unique knowledge of a small group of cosmetic microbiologists and cover all aspects that are critical to providing consumers with microbiologically safe products in a focused dis- cussion that allows immediate application. The first edition of this text was well received, and we have attempted to strengthen this second edition with expanded discussions of manufacturing hygiene and preservation. We have also expanded the regulatory review section to include a global perspective and cover current safety concerns for preservatives consistent with the most recent data. 1453_C000.fm Page 6 Thursday, March 9, 2006 6:08 AM 1453_C000.fm Page 7 Thursday, March 9, 2006 6:08 AM Acknowledgments The Editor thanks the following individuals and institutions whose contri- butions and support made this book possible: Dr. Dan Brannan, my colleague, coauthor and dear friend of many years, who edited the original version of this text and gave me the opportunity to edit this second edition. Contributors to this second edition who took time from their busy sci- entific and technical careers to document and share their unique knowledge and experience. Their efforts will guide readers to the production of cosmet- ics that are microbiologically safe for consumer use. The Procter & Gamble Company for providing decades of practical experience as well as immediate time and resources needed for this effort. Lastly, the U.S. Army's 45th Field Hospital that, decades ago, entrusted to me its clinical microbiology laboratory responsibilities and initiated a career in applied microbiology. 1453_C000.fm Page 8 Thursday, March 9, 2006 6:08 AM 1453_C000.fm Page 9 Thursday, March 9, 2006 6:08 AM Editor Philip A. Geis, Ph.D., is a native Texan who earned bachelor and doctor of philosophy degrees in microbiology from the University of Texas. He is currently a section head with The Procter & Gamble Company (P&G) in Cincinnati, Ohio, and has responsibilities for global microbiology within its Beauty Business Unit. Dr. Geis joined P&G in 1981 as a divisional microbiologist for the devel- opment of preservative systems and disinfectants and the study of house- hold and skin microbial ecologies. His subsequent work focused on micro- biological method development, design and maintenance of sanitary manufacturing systems, and microbial ecology associated with underarm odor, dandruff, toilet soil, and bathroom mildew. Responsible for the tech- nical efforts of multiple operations around the globe, Dr. Geis has acquired unique experience involving diverse regulatory, manufacturing, and product quality realities. His experience and responsibilities with P&G have also included product development and formulation as well as regulatory and environmental affairs. Dr. Geis publishes and lectures on microbiological and environmental subjects, served as an associate editor for the Society for Industrial Microbi- ology News, and represented the technical interests of P&G to professional organizations, regulatory bodies, and scientific societies. He is a member of MENSA, the American Society for Microbiology (ASM), and the Society for Industrial Microbiology (SIM). He is also a trustee of the Ohio Academy of Science and vice president of ASM’s Ohio branch and works to promote science as an ad hoc reviewer for scientific journals and academic programs of ASM, Ohio EPA, and a number of state science standards academic programs. 1453_C000.fm Page 10 Thursday, March 9, 2006 6:08 AM 1453_C000.fm Page 11 Thursday, March 9, 2006 6:08 AM Contributors William A. Apel, Ph.D. Amita Kanti, Ph.D. Idaho National Engineering The Procter & Gamble Company Laboratories Cincinnati, Ohio Idaho Falls, Idaho Pauline M. McNamee, Ph.D. Daniel K. Brannan, Ph.D. The Procter & Gamble Company Department of Biology Cincinnati, Ohio Abilene Christian University Abilene, Texas Richard Mulhall Alberto–Culver Company John S. Chapman, Ph.D. Melrose Park, Illinois E.I. DuPont de Nemours & Company Edward Schmidt, M.P.H. Wilmington, Delaware Alberto–Culver Company Melrose Park, Illinois Janet C. Curry, B.S. Wood Ridge, New Jersey Harry L. Schubert, B.S. The Procter & Gamble Company Philip A. Geis, Ph.D. Cincinnati, Ohio The Procter & Gamble Company Cincinnati, Ohio David C. Steinberg Steinberg & Associates, Inc. Laura M. Goolsby, B.S. Plainsboro, New Jersey The Procter & Gamble Company Cincinnati, Ohio Scott V.W. Sutton, Ph.D. Vectech Pharmaceutical Scott E. Heid, Ph.D. Consultants, Inc. The Procter & Gamble Company Farmington Hills, Michigan Cincinnati, Ohio 1453_C000.fm Page 12 Thursday, March 9, 2006 6:08 AM 1453_C000.fm Page 13 Thursday, March 9, 2006 6:08 AM Contents Part I: Basic microbiology Chapter 1: History of cosmetic microbiology...............................................3 Janet C. Curry, Daniel K. Brannan, with Philip A. Geis Chapter 2: Biology of microbes.....................................................................19 Daniel K. Brannan Part II: Sanitary practices in cosmetic manufacturing Chapter 3: Microbial environment of the manufacturing plant...............73 Richard Mulhall, Edward Schmidt, and Daniel K. Brannan Chapter 4: Hazard analysis and critical control point (HACCP) protocols in cosmetic microbiology...........................................97 Laura M. Goolsby and Harry L. Schubert Part III: Cosmetic microbiology test methods Chapter 5: Antimicrobial preservative efficacy and microbial content testing............................................................................................ 111 Scott V.W. Sutton Chapter 6: Validation of methods................................................................147 Daniel K. Brannan Part IV: Preservation of cosmetics Chapter 7: Preservation strategies ...............................................................163 Philip A. Geis 1453_C000.fm Page 14 Thursday, March 9, 2006 6:08 AM Chapter 8: Antimicrobial mechanisms of selected preservatives and the bacterial response.................................................................181 John S. Chapman Part V: Global regulatory and toxicologic aspects of cosmetic preservation Chapter 9: Consumer safety considerations of cosmetic preservation....193 Scott E. Heid, Amita Kanti, Pauline M. McNamee, and William A. Apel Chapter 10: Global regulation of preservatives and cosmetic preservatives................................................................................215
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