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Touring the Vine- Yards of Celtic Spain

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Touring the Vine- Yards of Celtic Spain Destination: Galicia – Pilgrim’s Haven TourinG the VinE- galicia Travel Tips & Notes one of the topics of galicia has to do with the fact yards of CEltic Spain that the locals like to eat and drink a lot. once again it’s not a topic, but a fact! If you go to a restaurant Journeying south along the magnificent western and order a steak and a salad don’t be surprised if Atlantic shore to the D.O. Rias Baixas, with its five the waiter kindly asks you if you are ill. you are sup- sub-zones – Ribeira do Ulla, Val do Salnés, Souto- posed to eat two or three courses and to help them “go down” with a bottle (or more) of wine. maior, O Rosal and Condado de Tea – we reach Al- barino country, where the Albarino grape reigns su- Possibly the most well-known wines from gali- cia are Ribeiro and Albariño. To my point of view preme. Our first bodega is in Salnes: Bodega Lagar Ribeiro is good, but Albariño is excellent...I was de Pintos, which produces Vizconde de Barrantes, recommended the following Ribeiro “Emilio rojo” a fragrant and refreshing dry white wine made en- (Pretty expensive) and Albariños “Pedro de souto- tirely of Albarino grapes. maior” and “Martin Codax”. Though the wine is young, the Pintos family has been producing wine since 1887. Their bodega is situated in a beautifully restored stone manor for a sample of Ribeiro wines: light, fresh and house. After touring the winery we are joined by the graceful. owner Jose Pintos to taste the wines with him in- The mountainous D.O. of Ribeira Sacra offers side his quaint tavern. excellent red wines. Grapes are grown on tiny Our second stop is Bodegas Martin Codax, strips of land on terraces cut into steep slopes whose wines have become very popular in the U.S. throughout the Sil valley. As we travel up the Sil We enjoy tasting this Albariño, which is subtle and River by catamaran, we see the densely culti- restrained, with a hint of wood accenting the fresh vated area while weaving through the canyons. tarting our journey in the pilgrimage city of floral and melon aromas. After touring these two Vineyards were planted here long ago by monks S Santiago de Compostela, we began the wine bodegas we made a short, unplanned stop at a at monasteries built in spectacular sites above the portion of our tour of Spain's Hidden Celtic Para- small fishing village called Combarro. river. Hence the name Ribeira Sacra (Sacred Riv- dise by traveling south and then eastward along What caught our attention was the large number er-bank). The most popular wine from the region river valleys and over high sierras. of people gathering all over the beach. They were are Mencia intense, dry, fruity, cherry red in color We pass fishing ports and Celtic sites, Cister- clam digging, which only happens at this time of and full-bodied. cian Monasteries, bodegas and nature parks, all year. We enjoyed a few glasses of Albariño wine on Galicia's youngest D.O. is Monterri, which lies set against mesmerizing green landscapes of the a terrace nearby and watched them in action. close to the Portuguese border. Its gently slopping region where they say "rain is art." In the vineyard- Next stop is the region of D.O. Ribeiro in the vineyards are covered with wines growing low to covered valleys of Galicia in Northwest Spain, we province of Ourense. In Ribadavia village, we the ground. Many grape varieties are grown here, find five Denomination de Origin, including Rias stroll through the Jewish medieval quarter, built including Godello, Dona Blanca, Mencia and Tinta Baixas, Ribeiro, Ribeira Sacra, Valdeorras and with wine wealth and sitting in a bowl of steeply Fina. Monterrei wines are not yet well known out- Monterrei. terraced hillsides cover with vineyards. We stop side the immediate region. March, 2010 — 65 — Destination: Galicia – Pilgrim’s Haven East of Monterri lies the D.O. Valdeorras, whose We make a special visit to a private palace bodega by hillsides blaze yellow and purple in summer with the name of Palacio de Arganza, established in 1805. gorse and heather. Its Godello white wines are This bodega combines the best of traditional wine mak- straw gold and nicely perfumed. Well-balanced ing with modern methods to make high quality wines. light red wines are produced here from the Mencia We were delighted to be invited by owner Don Daniel grape. Vuelta to dine in the bodega's elegant dining room next Crossing from the province of Ourense east into to the cellar. Delicious regional cuisine accompanied the neighboring province of Leon, we visit the D.O. by the wide selection of Palacio de Arganza wines pro- El Bierzo, where wines produced from the Men- vided a sumptuous conclusion to our tour. cia grape variety have created much enthusiasm By Sean O'Rourke (EATour Specialist) among wine experts and consumers. http://www.euroadventures.net March, 2010 — 66 —.
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