Analysis of Longshore Drift Patterns on the Littoral System of Nusa Dua Beach in Bali, Indonesia
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
Load more
Recommended publications
-
A Field Experiment on a Nourished Beach
CHAPTER 157 A Field Experiment on a Nourished Beach A.J. Fernandez* G. Gomez Pina * G. Cuena* J.L. Ramirez* Abstract The performance of a beach nourishment at" Playa de Castilla" (Huel- va, Spain) is evaluated by means of accurate beach profile surveys, vi- sual breaking wave information, buoy-measured wave data and sediment samples. The shoreline recession at the nourished beach due to "profile equilibration" and "spreading out" losses is discussed. The modified equi- librium profile curve proposed by Larson (1991) is shown to accurately describe the profiles with a grain size varying across-shore. The "spread- ing out" losses measured at " Playa de Castilla" are found to be less than predicted by spreading out formulations. The utilization of borrowed material substantially coarser than the native material is suggested as an explanation. 1 INTRODUCTION Fernandez et al. (1990) presented a case study of a sand bypass project at "Playa de Castilla" (Huelva, Spain) and the corresponding monitoring project, that was going to be undertaken. The Beach Nourishment Monitoring Project at the "Playa de Castilla" was begun over two years ago. The project is being *Direcci6n General de Costas. M.O.P.T, Madrid (Spain) 2043 2044 COASTAL ENGINEERING 1992 carried out to evaluate the performance of a beach fill and to establish effective strategies of coastal management and represents one of the most comprehensive monitoring projects that has been undertaken in Spain. This paper summa- rizes and discusses the data set for wave climate, beach profiles and sediment samples. 2 STUDY SITE & MONITORING PROGRAM Playa de Castilla, Fig. 1, is a sandy beach located on the South-West coast of Spain between the Guadiana and Gualdalquivir rivers. -
Basic Concepts in Oceanography
Chapter 1 XA0101461 BASIC CONCEPTS IN OCEANOGRAPHY L.F. SMALL College of Oceanic and Atmospheric Sciences, Oregon State University, Corvallis, Oregon, United States of America Abstract Basic concepts in oceanography include major wind patterns that drive ocean currents, and the effects that the earth's rotation, positions of land masses, and temperature and salinity have on oceanic circulation and hence global distribution of radioactivity. Special attention is given to coastal and near-coastal processes such as upwelling, tidal effects, and small-scale processes, as radionuclide distributions are currently most associated with coastal regions. 1.1. INTRODUCTION Introductory information on ocean currents, on ocean and coastal processes, and on major systems that drive the ocean currents are important to an understanding of the temporal and spatial distributions of radionuclides in the world ocean. 1.2. GLOBAL PROCESSES 1.2.1 Global Wind Patterns and Ocean Currents The wind systems that drive aerosols and atmospheric radioactivity around the globe eventually deposit a lot of those materials in the oceans or in rivers. The winds also are largely responsible for driving the surface circulation of the world ocean, and thus help redistribute materials over the ocean's surface. The major wind systems are the Trade Winds in equatorial latitudes, and the Westerly Wind Systems that drive circulation in the north and south temperate and sub-polar regions (Fig. 1). It is no surprise that major circulations of surface currents have basically the same patterns as the winds that drive them (Fig. 2). Note that the Trade Wind System drives an Equatorial Current-Countercurrent system, for example. -
Observation of Rip Currents by Synthetic Aperture Radar
OBSERVATION OF RIP CURRENTS BY SYNTHETIC APERTURE RADAR José C.B. da Silva (1) , Francisco Sancho (2) and Luis Quaresma (3) (1) Institute of Oceanography & Dept. of Physics, University of Lisbon, 1749-016 Lisbon, Portugal (2) Laboratorio Nacional de Engenharia Civil, Av. do Brasil, 101 , 1700-066, Lisbon, Portugal (3) Instituto Hidrográfico, Rua das Trinas, 49, 1249-093 Lisboa , Portugal ABSTRACT Rip currents are near-shore cellular circulations that can be described as narrow, jet-like and seaward directed flows. These flows originate close to the shoreline and may be a result of alongshore variations in the surface wave field. The onshore mass transport produced by surface waves leads to a slight increase of the mean water surface level (set-up) toward the shoreline. When this set-up is spatially non-uniform alongshore (due, for example, to non-uniform wave breaking field), a pressure gradient is produced and rip currents are formed by converging alongshore flows with offshore flows concentrated in regions of low set-up and onshore flows in between. Observation of rip currents is important in coastal engineering studies because they can cause a seaward transport of beach sand and thus change beach morphology. Since rip currents are an efficient mechanism for exchange of near-shore and offshore water, they are important for across shore mixing of heat, nutrients, pollutants and biological species. So far however, studies of rip currents have mainly relied on numerical modelling and video camera observations. We show an ENVISAT ASAR observation in Precision Image mode of bright near-shore cell-like signatures on a dark background that are interpreted as surface signatures of rip currents. -
Littoral Cells, Sand Budgets, and Beaches: Understanding California S
LITTORAL CELLS, SAND BUDGETS, AND BEACHES: UNDERSTANDING CALIFORNIA’ S SHORELINE KIKI PATSCH GARY GRIGGS OCTOBER 2006 INSTITUTE OF MARINE SCIENCES UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA, SANTA CRUZ CALIFORNIA DEPARTMENT OF BOATING AND WATERWAYS CALIFORNIA COASTAL SEDIMENT MANAGEMENT WORKGROUP Littoral Cells, Sand Budgets, and Beaches: Understanding California’s Shoreline By Kiki Patch Gary Griggs Institute of Marine Sciences University of California, Santa Cruz California Department of Boating and Waterways California Coastal Sediment Management WorkGroup October 2006 Cover Image: Santa Barbara Harbor © 2002 Kenneth & Gabrielle Adelman, California Coastal Records Project www.californiacoastline.org Brochure Design & Layout Laura Beach www.LauraBeach.net Littoral Cells, Sand Budgets, and Beaches: Understanding California’s Shoreline Kiki Patsch Gary Griggs Institute of Marine Sciences University of California, Santa Cruz TABLE OF CONTENTS Executive Summary 7 Chapter 1: Introduction 9 Chapter 2: An Overview of Littoral Cells and Littoral Drift 11 Chapter 3: Elements Involved in Developing Sand Budgets for Littoral Cells 17 Chapter 4: Sand Budgets for California’s Major Littoral Cells and Changes in Sand Supply 23 Chapter 5: Discussion of Beach Nourishment in California 27 Chapter 6: Conclusions 33 References Cited and Other Useful References 35 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY he coastline of California can be divided into a set of dis- Beach nourishment or beach restoration is the placement of Ttinct, essentially self-contained littoral cells or beach com- sand on the shoreline with the intent of widening a beach that partments. These compartments are geographically limited and is naturally narrow or where the natural supply of sand has consist of a series of sand sources (such as rivers, streams and been signifi cantly reduced through human activities. -
Mapping Current and Future Priorities
Mapping Current and Future Priorities for Coral Restoration and Adaptation Programs International Coral Reef Initiative (ICRI) Ad Hoc Committee on Reef Restoration 2019 Interim Report This report was prepared by James Cook University, funded by the Australian Institute for Marine Science on behalf of the ICRI Secretariat nations Australia, Indonesia and Monaco. Suggested Citation: McLeod IM, Newlands M, Hein M, Boström-Einarsson L, Banaszak A, Grimsditch G, Mohammed A, Mead D, Pioch S, Thornton H, Shaver E, Souter D, Staub F. (2019). Mapping Current and Future Priorities for Coral Restoration and Adaptation Programs: International Coral Reef Initiative Ad Hoc Committee on Reef Restoration 2019 Interim Report. 44 pages. Available at icriforum.org Acknowledgements The ICRI ad hoc committee on reef restoration are thanked and acknowledged for their support and collaboration throughout the process as are The International Coral Reef Initiative (ICRI) Secretariat, Australian Institute of Marine Science (AIMS) and TropWATER, James Cook University. The committee held monthly meetings in the second half of 2019 to review the draft methodology for the analysis and subsequently to review the drafts of the report summarising the results. Professor Karen Hussey and several members of the ad hoc committee provided expert peer review. Research support was provided by Melusine Martin and Alysha Wincen. Advisory Committee (ICRI Ad hoc committee on reef restoration) Ahmed Mohamed (UN Environment), Anastazia Banaszak (International Coral Reef Society), -
Beach Nourishment: Massdep's Guide to Best Management Practices for Projects in Massachusetts
BBEACHEACH NNOURISHMEOURISHMENNTT MassDEP’sMassDEP’s GuideGuide toto BestBest ManagementManagement PracticesPractices forfor ProjectsProjects inin MassachusettsMassachusetts March 2007 acknowledgements LEAD AUTHORS: Rebecca Haney (Coastal Zone Management), Liz Kouloheras, (MassDEP), Vin Malkoski (Mass. Division of Marine Fisheries), Jim Mahala (MassDEP) and Yvonne Unger (MassDEP) CONTRIBUTORS: From MassDEP: Fred Civian, Jen D’Urso, Glenn Haas, Lealdon Langley, Hilary Schwarzenbach and Jim Sprague. From Coastal Zone Management: Bob Boeri, Mark Borrelli, David Janik, Julia Knisel and Wendolyn Quigley. Engineering consultants from Applied Coastal Research and Engineering Inc. also reviewed the document for technical accuracy. Lead Editor: David Noonan (MassDEP) Design and Layout: Sandra Rabb (MassDEP) Photography: Sandra Rabb (MassDEP) unless otherwise noted. Massachusetts Massachusetts Office Department of of Coastal Zone Environmental Protection Management 1 Winter Street 251 Causeway Street Boston, MA Boston, MA table of contents I. Glossary of Terms 1 II. Summary 3 II. Overview 6 • Purpose 6 • Beach Nourishment 6 • Specifications and Best Management Practices 7 • Permit Requirements and Timelines 8 III. Technical Attachments A. Beach Stability Determination 13 B. Receiving Beach Characterization 17 C. Source Material Characterization 21 D. Sample Problem: Beach and Borrow Site Sediment Analysis to Determine Stability of Nourishment Material for Shore Protection 22 E. Generic Beach Monitoring Plan 27 F. Sample Easement 29 G. References 31 GLOSSARY Accretion - the gradual addition of land by deposition of water-borne sediment. Beach Fill – also called “artificial nourishment”, “beach nourishment”, “replenishment”, and “restoration,” comprises the placement of sediment within the nearshore sediment transport system (see littoral zone). (paraphrased from Dean, 2002) Beach Profile – the cross-sectional shape of a beach plotted perpendicular to the shoreline. -
Part III-2 Longshore Sediment Transport
Chapter 2 EM 1110-2-1100 LONGSHORE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT (Part III) 30 April 2002 Table of Contents Page III-2-1. Introduction ............................................................ III-2-1 a. Overview ............................................................. III-2-1 b. Scope of chapter ....................................................... III-2-1 III-2-2. Longshore Sediment Transport Processes ............................... III-2-1 a. Definitions ............................................................ III-2-1 b. Modes of sediment transport .............................................. III-2-3 c. Field identification of longshore sediment transport ........................... III-2-3 (1) Experimental measurement ............................................ III-2-3 (2) Qualitative indicators of longshore transport magnitude and direction ......................................................... III-2-5 (3) Quantitative indicators of longshore transport magnitude ..................... III-2-6 (4) Longshore sediment transport estimations in the United States ................. III-2-7 III-2-3. Predicting Potential Longshore Sediment Transport ...................... III-2-7 a. Energy flux method .................................................... III-2-10 (1) Historical background ............................................... III-2-10 (2) Description ........................................................ III-2-10 (3) Variation of K with median grain size................................... III-2-13 (4) Variation of K with -
Marine Forecasting at TAFB [email protected]
Marine Forecasting at TAFB [email protected] 1 Waves 101 Concepts and basic equations 2 Have an overall understanding of the wave forecasting challenge • Wave growth • Wave spectra • Swell propagation • Swell decay • Deep water waves • Shallow water waves 3 Wave Concepts • Waves form by the stress induced on the ocean surface by physical wind contact with water • Begin with capillary waves with gradual growth dependent on conditions • Wave decay process begins immediately as waves exit wind generation area…a.k.a. “fetch” area 4 5 Wave Growth There are three basic components to wave growth: • Wind speed • Fetch length • Duration Wave growth is limited by either fetch length or duration 6 Fully Developed Sea • When wave growth has reached a maximum height for a given wind speed, fetch and duration of wind. • A sea for which the input of energy to the waves from the local wind is in balance with the transfer of energy among the different wave components, and with the dissipation of energy by wave breaking - AMS. 7 Fetches 8 Dynamic Fetch 9 Wave Growth Nomogram 10 Calculate Wave H and T • What can we determine for wave characteristics from the following scenario? • 40 kt wind blows for 24 hours across a 150 nm fetch area? • Using the wave nomogram – start on left vertical axis at 40 kt • Move forward in time to the right until you reach either 24 hours or 150 nm of fetch • What is limiting factor? Fetch length or time? • Nomogram yields 18.7 ft @ 9.6 sec 11 Wave Growth Nomogram 12 Wave Dimensions • C=Wave Celerity • L=Wave Length • -
OCEANS ´09 IEEE Bremen
11-14 May Bremen Germany Final Program OCEANS ´09 IEEE Bremen Balancing technology with future needs May 11th – 14th 2009 in Bremen, Germany Contents Welcome from the General Chair 2 Welcome 3 Useful Adresses & Phone Numbers 4 Conference Information 6 Social Events 9 Tourism Information 10 Plenary Session 12 Tutorials 15 Technical Program 24 Student Poster Program 54 Exhibitor Booth List 57 Exhibitor Profiles 63 Exhibit Floor Plan 94 Congress Center Bremen 96 OCEANS ´09 IEEE Bremen 1 Welcome from the General Chair WELCOME FROM THE GENERAL CHAIR In the Earth system the ocean plays an important role through its intensive interactions with the atmosphere, cryo- sphere, lithosphere, and biosphere. Energy and material are continually exchanged at the interfaces between water and air, ice, rocks, and sediments. In addition to the physical and chemical processes, biological processes play a significant role. Vast areas of the ocean remain unexplored. Investigation of the surface ocean is carried out by satellites. All other observations and measurements have to be carried out in-situ using research vessels and spe- cial instruments. Ocean observation requires the use of special technologies such as remotely operated vehicles (ROVs), autonomous underwater vehicles (AUVs), towed camera systems etc. Seismic methods provide the foundation for mapping the bottom topography and sedimentary structures. We cordially welcome you to the international OCEANS ’09 conference and exhibition, to the world’s leading conference and exhibition in ocean science, engineering, technology and management. OCEANS conferences have become one of the largest professional meetings and expositions devoted to ocean sciences, technology, policy, engineering and education. -
Assessing Long-Term Changes in the Beach Width of Reef Islands Based on Temporally Fragmented Remote Sensing Data
Remote Sens. 2014, 6, 6961-6987; doi:10.3390/rs6086961 OPEN ACCESS remote sensing ISSN 2072-4292 www.mdpi.com/journal/remotesensing Article Assessing Long-Term Changes in the Beach Width of Reef Islands Based on Temporally Fragmented Remote Sensing Data Thomas Mann 1,* and Hildegard Westphal 1,2 1 Leibniz Center for Tropical Marine Ecology, Fahrenheitstrasse 6, D-28359 Bremen, Germany; E-Mail: [email protected] 2 Department of Geosciences, University of Bremen, D-28359 Bremen, Germany * Author to whom correspondence should be addressed; E-Mail: [email protected]; Tel.: +49-421-2380-0132; Fax: +49-421-2380-030. Received: 30 May 2014; in revised form: 7 July 2014 / Accepted: 18 July 2014 / Published: 25 July 2014 Abstract: Atoll islands are subject to a variety of processes that influence their geomorphological development. Analysis of historical shoreline changes using remotely sensed images has become an efficient approach to both quantify past changes and estimate future island response. However, the detection of long-term changes in beach width is challenging mainly for two reasons: first, data availability is limited for many remote Pacific islands. Second, beach environments are highly dynamic and strongly influenced by seasonal or episodic shoreline oscillations. Consequently, remote-sensing studies on beach morphodynamics of atoll islands deal with dynamic features covered by a low sampling frequency. Here we present a study of beach dynamics for nine islands on Takú Atoll, Papua New Guinea, over a seven-decade period. A considerable chronological gap between aerial photographs and satellite images was addressed by applying a new method that reweighted positions of the beach limit by identifying “outlier” shoreline positions. -
Nature Parks Snorkeling Surfing Fishing
Things to do in Florida Nature Parks Snorkeling Surfing Fishing Nature Parks Green Cay This nature center is the county’s newest nature canter that over- looks 100 acres of constructed wetland. Wakodahatchee Wetlands Is a park in Delray Beach with a three-quarter mile boardwalk that crosses between open water ponds and marches. Patch Reef Park & DeHoernle Park Parks in Boca Raton that have an abundant of sports and recreation facilities. Morikami Museum & Japanese Gardens The gardens at this Japanese cultural center in Delray Beach in- clude paradise garden, various styles of rock and Zen gardens, and a museum. Gumbo Limbo This Nature Center and Environmental Complex includes an indoor museum with fish tanks with fish, turtles, and other sea life. It is also known for rehabilitating and protecting sea turtles. *More information and website links are located on the last page. Snorkeling Blowing Rocks This is an environmental preserve on Jupiter Island in Hobe Sound. This peaceful, barrier island sanctuary is known for large-scale, native coastal habitat restoration. Lantana Beach Lantana is a coastal community in Palm Beach and 10 feet off shore there is a pretty good areas to snorkel. Red Reef Park A 67-acre oceanfront park in Boca Raton for swimming, snorkeling, and surf fishing that includes a nature center. Lauderdale-by-the-Sea Is known as “The Shore Diving Capital of South Florida”. There are two coral reef lines that are just a short swim from the beach. John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park The first undersea park that encompasses about 70 natural square miles. -
The Project for Pilot Gravel Beach Nourishment Against Coastal Disaster on Fongafale Island in Tuvalu
MINISTRY OF FOREIGN AFFAIRS, TRADES, TOURISM, ENVIRONMENT AND LABOUR THE GOVERNMENT OF TUVALU THE PROJECT FOR PILOT GRAVEL BEACH NOURISHMENT AGAINST COASTAL DISASTER ON FONGAFALE ISLAND IN TUVALU FINAL REPORT (SUPPORTING REPORT) April 2018 JAPAN INTERNATIONAL COOPERATION AGENCY NIPPON KOEI CO., LTD. FUTABA INC. GE JR 18-058 MINISTRY OF FOREIGN AFFAIRS, TRADES, TOURISM, ENVIRONMENT AND LABOUR THE GOVERNMENT OF TUVALU THE PROJECT FOR PILOT GRAVEL BEACH NOURISHMENT AGAINST COASTAL DISASTER ON FONGAFALE ISLAND IN TUVALU FINAL REPORT (SUPPORTING REPORT) April 2018 JAPAN INTERNATIONAL COOPERATION AGENCY NIPPON KOEI CO., LTD. FUTABA INC. Table of Contents Supporting Report-1 Study on the Quality and Quantity of Materials in Phase-1 (quote from Interim Report 1) .............................................................. SR-1 Supporting Report-2 Planning and Design in Phase-1 (quote from Interim Report 1) ............ SR-2 Supporting Report-3 Design Drawing ..................................................................................... SR-3 Supporting Report-4 Project Implementation Plan in Phase-1 (quote from Interim Report 1)................................................................................................. SR-4 Supporting Report-5 Preliminary Environmental Assessment Report (PEAR) ....................... SR-5 Supporting Report-6 Public Consultation in Phase-1 (quote from Interim Report 1) .............. SR-6 Supporting Report-7 Bidding Process (quote from Progress Report) ...................................... SR-7 Supporting