The Study on Fashion Beauty Design and Emotional Image by External Image Type of Korean Male Idol Stars+
Journal of Fashion Business Vol. 15, No. 6, pp.71~84(2011)
The Study on Fashion Beauty Design and Emotional Image by External Image Type of Korean Male Idol Stars+
Kim Joomee* · Shin Seyeong Ph.D. Candidate, Dept. of Beauty Arts, Graduate school of Seokyeong University* Prof., Dept. of Beauty Arts, Seokyeong University
Abstract
This study is purposed to categorize external image types of Korean male idol stars, and to understand characteristics of fashion and beauty design for each type and through such, the study is meant to identify the various types of male image and to provide data of image making. As part of the empirical study, it selected well-known 15 groups of male idol stars who were active during February of 2008 and August of 2010, categorized the image types by their photographic data, and analyzed characteristics of fashion and beauty design for each type. In order to measure the degree of image types, a survey was also conducted. The image types of male idol stars, which were classified through a workshop by a group of image-related experts, were categorized with 6 types that are Elite, Urban Chic, Charisma, Rebellious child, Toy boy, and Homme Fatale. The six types of male idol stars have a great relation with the modern male trends and images, and that the male idol stars have been leading the trends and presenting the image by the public preference. In addition, as shown the above, the recent male image appears as a mixed image of femininity and masculinity, showing a complex aspect that does not dominates with one image, and that it was found out to constantly be changing in the flow of times.
Key Words : Idol Star, Image Type and Male Image.
I. Introduction change of life style. The popular stars who are main character in this industry are getting higher Nowadays, entertainment industry is growing position and influence in the society due to the as a high value added industry which leads 21st development of popular culture according to century because of growth of mass media and growth of entertainment market. So the role and
+ This paper is an excerpt from the master's thesis.
Corresponding Author: Kim Joomee Tel.+82-10-2510-7201 E-mail: [email protected]
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value of them come into the spotlight socially found to study on Male Idol stars' image and culturally. The styles of popular stars which classification and analysis. Accordingly, this become fashion icon usually express ideal type study will analyze the features of fashion and and ideal style of the era. The mass in Korean beauty design by their external image types and society tend to be absorbed in popular stars explore the differences of sensitive image and try to find ideal beauty in their style.1) The characteristics to male idol stars arousing a positive recognition of popular culture and stars great issue with fashion, make-up and makes the imitating of stars a natural hair-style. Through which this article will grasp phenomenon. The popular stars construct their the features of male trend image, provide identity and make effort to create ideal image marketing data of male fashion and beauty which people like through image making industry, and basic data to produce male trendy strategy. At this time personal image becomes a image. competitiveness and the interest in image creating is getting higher, the external image of popular stars is not only the means to raise the II. Theoretical background competitiveness of popular stars but also the 1. Definition of idol stars and background example of image creating of people as it of their advent. makes influence on people.2) 3) Recently idol stars reign over the Korean The meaning of idol star is similar with entertainment field and get attention of people meaning of teen idol and indicates the singer as they play a key role to lead trend of society. who is very popular usually to teenagers. Idol After the year 2008, the number of group who means worship in English and they make activity make debut is getting considerably increased as singer, movie actor and talents in and they have been expanding their activity field entertainment’s various field. Idol singers often the comprehensively including popular song make their debuts at adolescent or their early program in the broadcasting. Idol stars are 20's, in which case management companies expanding their impact as it makes influence frequently make a group with a certain concept even to middle aged people beyond people in and make them appear in the stage. In the past, twenties. So their spreading effect is getting idol, popular idol stars, highteen stars, teenage much larger. As especially social interest in groups(like Duran Duran, HOT) used to fill external image of male is getting increased, the magazines but from early 2000(time when elements of external image of idol stars lead the related articles start to appear) those words trend and detonate imitating trend and also started to be used in the articles as the word to influence the industry of male appearance mean the singer popular to teenager. As the management including plastic surgery and many groups popular to teenager appear, they cosmetics. started to be called idol and it tends to keep Recently, The previous studies for Idol's image that meaning.6) Idol group indicates the music looked at the fashion image of Female Idol stars group produced by idol management system. 4) on Jeon Hyejung and the sexual image of Now idol groups make debut comprise of 5) Female Idol stars on Lee Joolee , but it is not members who went through precise training from
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1 year even to 10 years by entertainment who makes activity in various fields such as management company. After year 2008, ‘idol radio, drama and musical. Such changes made stars’ have been defined to be idol group who them national stars. Also as the quantity and is popular to the mass considering that most of quality of music of idol group has been idol singer is group singer. improved, the age of their fans has been At the moment idol stars in Korea starts to expanded from teenager to people in their find its key place as leads trend of Korean thirties and forties beyond twenties. So called society. Lee Dongyeon, the professor in Korea ‘samchon corps(corps of uncle fans)’ , ‘imo National University of Arts said the symbiotic corps(corps of aunt fans)’ shows it. The ‘middle relationship between idol and broadcasting age people’ applaud to the performance of companies got tighten and the frequency of Sonyosidae, 2NE1, 2PM, SHINee whose age is appearing in broadcasting got much higher than so young enough to the age of their nephew the past and idol has been the trend in the and the number of them is getting higher. The broadcasting as broadcasting companies of fact that the age of people who like idol stars Korea are focused on the entertainment have been expanded from teen and twenties to programs which has high viewing rate. thirties and forties make us to expect the Especially, in singing circles the activity of idol continuing bullish tendency. As the appearance singers stands out so much as it is hard to see of the word ‘kukmin idol’(it means the idol who other singers than idol stars at the high-ranking is popular nationally) shows, the influence of popularity chart. Album chart, sound source idol recently is very different from that of idol in chart and all evaluation values show that idol the past whose fans were mostly teenager. Such groups are distributed at the upper zone, it is advent of nationally popular idol can be said to hard to see other genre signers.7) That idol stars be the mixed result from some elements like appearing on recent music programs, movies environment change of broadcasting system and and dramas and other art programs remarkably precise training by entertainment management increases shows the fact that their influence has companies and expansion of age of fans. increased over the broadcasting. In 1990’s most of idol stars is usually dancing 2. External image creating for idol stars singer and their fans are mostly teenagers but The image of stars is created through the idol stars of 2000’s become all-round entertainer
Background of the advent of kukmin idol - This researcher's picture
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quality, mass media, manner, speech, fashion, normally leads the fashion trend in the peak age hair and make-up. The image of stars moves of idol stars who attract people in all age and society with a stronger power than any powerful such fashion and style becomes indispensable authority as an industry. It becomes a social option for popularity as much as musical symbol which derives personal taste, familiarity, artfulness. desire and identity while it delivers cultural Currently idol stars in Korea lead trend and meaning and ideological values.8) Kang Jungmin9) making positioning they desire through who tried to find the ideal beauty of people appearance management in various field like through the fashion image of popular stars body management, fashion creation and make- which make influence on people’s fashion said up. Especially in case of recent male idol stars, that the influence of popular stars on people is they attract people by showing dark smoky produced by the image created by the stars and make-up, characteristic hair design along with that the analysis of appearance and style which abdominal muscle. creates such image can play a huge role in The appearance in the external image can be finding ideal image of modern era’s people. said to be a mixed image created by body and The idol stars who find their place in the change of body which is perceived visually like popular music put visual elements in its make-up, hair style, nail art, skin beauty and appearance with the ‘the music for seeing’ accessory.10) In this study, in order to make rather than ‘the music for listening’ with their analysis of external image of idol stars, we graceful appearance and dance. At the current classified it into fashion and beauty design in time when what you look at is considered more large. We defined that the fashion is the important than what you listen at, the idol stars concept which includes clothing and accessory are attracting their fan’s heart with gorgeous while beauty design indicates make-up and hair performance and suits on the stage. The style among appearance decoration relating attention of people is focused on suit, body, face. make-up and hair style of idol stars rather than their skill of singing. At the point of seen is 3. Change in trend image of males. considered more important than heard, idol stars' stage captivates fans' mind with their In the past Korea, the dichotomy classification of being manliness or of not being manliness brilliant performance, costume. The public's eyes was usual. The males who wanted a make-up concentrate on their clothing, physical exposure, make-up and hair style rather than their singing had a disturbance to find his identity in the standard of the society that considered it not to ability. The fashion of idol stars is attracting be manly. However in the late 20th century, the people’s attention while it leads the fashion as an important element which provides or various cultures from west were accepted and males started the make-up aggressively while emphasizes variety or creativity. Unlike the idol having interest in himself and expressing the stars in 1990’s wore the same uniforms or stage suit resembling cartoon’s characters, they show beauty. From the early 21st century, the change of male’s trend image, which started from street fashion which anybody can imitate. The ‘Metrosexual’ brought the new thinking that fashionable fashion which anybody can wear males can be competitive by managing appearance
74 Kim Joomee · Shin Seyeong / The Study on Fashion Beauty Design and Emotional Image by External Image Type of Korean Male Idol Stars for themselves. It means now males can do the attitude toward make-up of men is rapidly their best to express characteristic themselves changing in such degree that the light skin without being bind to the role they are given make-up is prevalent among men of their and the cultural situation they are in. Such a twenties. Looking at the ‘male customer in their change of thinking is now playing the crucial twenties and thirties' change of recognition role to create their own style and their own toward fashion’ by Samsung’s fashion research individual and different image.11) center, the degree of attending to fashion went Along with the change of males' change of up both in people in their twenties and thirties values, recent Korean society sees the increase as that is similar from teenagers to the people of the men trying to improve their facial in their twenties and thirties. It indicates the demerits, and expressing their personality. In interest in the fashion has been increased. even a couple of years ago, most of men Recently the influence of stars marketing was considered make-up of men negative. But now intensified considerably among people in all age
New words relevant to men's image since 2000
Categories Meaning Metrosexual The man who has an interest in grooming and positively enjoys their 2004~ inner side of femininity Ubersexual The man who keeps warmth without losing masculine beauty, which 2005~ combines macho and metrosexual merits Cross Sexual The man who aims at feminine visual style, considering women's 2006~ clothes, accessories and hair style, etc. as one of fashion code. Beauty boy The man who possesses refined fashion, relaxed mood and the the 'Kkot-nam' attitude being considerate of women, etc., as evolved type from the 2009~ existing 'Kkotminam' meaning the pretty boy (2002 to 2005). Toy Boy Young and attractive man who is younger than girlfriend as a new 2009~ word caused by recently increase of the couple the woman is older. 'Cho-shik-nam' is the world for the man who is not very aggressive Herbivorous like carnivorous animal but meek and mild, and is active in hobbies men the 'Cho-shik-nam' but passive in dating. A Japanese woman columnist, Hookasawa 2009~ maki first used, in 2006, this word contrasting with the existing male image showing off 'maleness'. Toy boy The man between late 20th and early 30th who is sensitive by nature the 'Toy-nam' and loves himself very much as if showing up in a song of a band 2009~ the 'Toy', being delicate and considerate to woman. It is the firm muscular man with sharply clean cut jaw and strong Beast men the eyes bold, evolved from the male image previously called 'macho' 'Jim-seung-nam' considered 'manhood' the best, represented by Taek-yun, a member 2009~ of the boy idol band, 2PM. Handsome- beast-men The man with the Kkotminman (pretty) face and muscular build the 'Ccot-jim-seung' represented by Nickhun from boy band, the 2PM and a movie actor, 2010~ Won-bin stared in Korean movie 'The Man From Nowhere', etc. ※ This table is reconstructed by researcher based on each press account and previous study.13)
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and there are few differences between people in In the literature researches, theoretical research all ages from teenagers to people in their thirties relating external image of idol stars has been unlike the year 2000 when there are large done through books, previous studies, related differences between them.12) articles. For empirical research, on the other From the 21st century, new words for male’s hand, the analysis of image of idol stars and image have started to appear. The new words survey of appraisal of emotional image was indicate usually the fashion, disposition and ideal practiced through broadcasting materials of male type in the era. As follows, the various new idol stars. words relating male show the complex change As for the research range, among the male of image in appearance, disposition and style idol stars who made activity from the February which is different from the past. of 2008 when idol stars started to be increased abruptly and the advent of them became an issue in the society to August of 2010, 15 III. Research method groups were selected who kept more frequent broadcasting appearance and higher popular For this, the literature researches of domestic recognition. As the materials for analysis of and abroad and an empirical research were combined. external image, album pictures and photos from
Boy band idol stars selected as objects of study14)
Average Number of Name of band Debut year age member
1 Super Junior 26 13 2005 2 SS501 26 5 3 Big Bang 23 5 2006 4 F.T. Island 22 5 2007 5 U-KISS 20 7 6 2PM 22 7 2008 7 2AM 23 4 8 Shinee 20 5 9 MBLAQ 22 5 2009 10 Beast 21 6 11 C.N. Blue 21 4 12 Children of Empire(ZE:A) 21 9
76 Kim Joomee · Shin Seyeong / The Study on Fashion Beauty Design and Emotional Image by External Image Type of Korean Male Idol Stars articles and photos from official cafe and their Among 30 vocabularies used for the appraisal management company homepage were used. of images according to image type of male idol The researchers and 2 students of master’s stars, the analysis of elements was course selected good precision pictures and accomplished by use of primary analysis and pictures showing their make-up well and their Varimax rotation based on 5 point scale. Like images and fashion and elements of beauty
, as the result of analysis, 6 elements design. such as ‘familiarity’, ‘activeness’, ‘sensationalism’, For image classification and nomination, for ‘masculinity’, ‘urbaneness’, ‘conservatism’ has the first phase, the image type of male idol been deducted. stars was classified by deep analysis of a person who works in entertainment business and 2) The relationships between image elements researchers, For the second phase, through and the external image types deep workshop by 5 beauty professionals, verification of group image type of male idol The significant difference shows in all 6 kinds of images like
as the result of stars and nomination and characteristic of each multilateral distribution analysis in order to know image was deducted. For emotion image appraisal of each type, a survey against 50 the relationship between image elements and each image types for male idol stars. the elite people who work for beauty business or majored type shows the high relationship with familiarity in beauty was accomplished with image related adjective questionnaire deducted through elements while expresses gentle, emotional, luxury, refined and conservative images. The pervious research and workshop. ‘urban chic’ type shows the high relationship with urban elements while keeps urban images. The ‘charisma’ type has close relationship with IV. The result of research sensual elements while it shows tough, 1. The image types of male idol stars broad-minded, strong, aggressive, confident, masculine, and sexy images. The ‘rebellious Through in-depth workshop of professional child’ type has close relationship with activeness group for image photos of male idol stars, the elements while shows individual and free image types of male idol stars have been images. The ‘toy boy’ type keeps close classified into the following 6 types such as relationship with familiarity elements while shows ‘Elite’, ‘Urban Chic’, ‘Charisma’, ‘Rebellious intimate, comfortable, cute, innocent, natural, child’, ‘Toy boy’ and ‘Homme Fatale’ types and vivacious, young looking, frail, energetic, and nominated. The characteristic images drawn simple images. The ‘Homme Fatale’ type has through workshop is like
. close relationships with sensationalism element while it shows sensational, dark and showy 2. The appraisal of images according to images. image type of male idol stars.
1) Vocabularies relating each external image types
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Image characteristics per types of male idol stars
Type Representative pictures Representative image
Elite image seen as Elite calm, sensory and intellectual
Urban chic Refined and urban image
The image felt the tolerant, confident, Charisma masculine and charismatic man
The image in freedom Rebellious and strong individuality Child with immature and young look
Adonis-like image stimulating a maternal Toy boy instinct by young and cute feeling
Homme Brilliant and sexy image Fatale of famine visual with mature masculine beauty
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Image factorial analysis and credibility verification
3. The characteristics of fashion beauty colorful monotone and semi suit style of natural design based on each image type of color dominates. As for make-up, skin tone male idol stars correction and light decoration of eyebrow created clean and tidy image. Their hair style is As for the analysis of external image based on dandy style of smooth feeling and natural brown image type of male idol stars and classified color with feeling of decency and tidiness. image appraisal based on survey,
The ‘Urban Chic’ type reveals city image. It is shows its apprehensive result. characteristic of non colorful slim suit in its The research shows the ‘Elite’ type feels fashion style and smoky make-up and trendy smooth, emotional, brilliant, polishing and hair style of chocolate brown tone showed up. conservative image. As its fashion style, non- The ‘Charisma’ type shows sexy, aggressive,
80 Kim Joomee · Shin Seyeong / The Study on Fashion Beauty Design and Emotional Image by External Image Type of Korean Male Idol Stars confident, tough and broad-minded and strong nude color lip make-up. The hair-style macho image. It gives strong impression with its demonstrated a glamorous feeling through an black and non-colorful suit and accessories artificial looking style, dyed with a strong red made of leather. It shows dark skin tone and tone and brown color, and the results of the smoky eye make-up and body make-up image survey scored the highest for a boasting of muscle, Mohican style stressing provocative, dark, and glamorous image. tough image and dark color short hair style. The ‘Rebellious Child' type shows free and characteristic image. Hip hop and punk style Ⅴ. Conclusion street fashion and metal accessory stud with hobnail expresses rebellious child image while it The external image type of male idol stars can shows peculiar and strong make-up with the be classified into elite, urban chic, charisma, skin with dark tone, smoky eye make-up, color rebellious child, toy boy and Homme Fatale. The smoky and face painting. Their hair style showed fashion and beauty design characteristics and individuality such as the dying of various color, emotional image characteristics in each type can Mohican style and cone hair. be summarized as follows. The 'Toy Boy' type shows intimate, comfortable, First, the characteristics of fashion style in the cute, innocent, natural, vivacious, young looking group classified as 'Elite' type is non color and and frail image. Their fashion style was overall natural tone while it gives unification and bright and colorful casual clothing with sneakers harmonic impression and as a whole the semi and cap hats, presenting a young and cheerful suit style with simple detail and convenient image. The make-up usually had been on a feeling dominates. As for make-up, it showed bright skin tone, but recently smokey eye an organized feeling with basic make-up in such make-up has been a trend as well, and the an extent to trim the compensation of skin tone hair-style was usually a cute baby perm style and eyebrow form to make us of a neat image. with bright colors. The results of the image And as for hair style, it showed natural and tidy survey scored high for a friendly, comfortable, style and natural brown color. The survey for cute, pure, natural, cheerful, younger looking, emotional image shows that they keep soft, and soft image. emotional and luxurious, polishing and The 'Homme Fatale' type shows sensational, conservative image. dark and showy image. Their fashion style was a Second, the character of fashion style in the dark, yet glamorous image with strong primary group classified as 'Urban Chic' type is an colors on black or an achromatic series of achromatic color slim suit fitted into body and colors, and highlighted provocative image with semi suit style as it shows well decorated body tightly-fitted clothing that reflected the body line by revealing chest and arms. It stresses it figure, and accessories like studded choker-style urban image with smoky make-up and polishing necklaces. The make-up was done on a thick hair styling of chocolate brown color. The survey make-up base with smokey eyes of strong of emotion image shows it reveals the urban shadows, also highlighted femininity while image the most. remaining provcatively-appealing with red or Third, the character of fashion style in the
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group classified as 'Charisma' type is black The above 6 male idol’s external image types color suit that fits into muscle body and leather reflect the trend image of modern males and accessory as it provides the strong feeling. The male idol stars lead the trend while they skin with dark tone, smoky make-up with strong produce their image according to the mass’ line and body make-up stressing muscle shows taste. Additionally we found the image of male up macho sexy beauty while dark color short idol stars is expressed mixed with womanly hair stresses the toughness. The survey of nature and manly nature as it changes and emotional image shows it reveals sexy, expressed variously to the trend of era as aggressive, confident, tough and broad-minded complex configuration which can’t be defined as and strong macho image more. an image. Forth, ‘Rebellious Child’ type emphasizes The image of modern male is not fixed but it rebellious child image with street fashion and is expressed in various types as it changes metal accessory stud with hobnail. Its make-up endlessly to the trend of the era. As we know consists of dark skin tone, smoky eye make-up, from the 6 image types of male idols, recently color smoky and face painting while it is the trend image of male is expressed mixed with peculiar and strong. Its hair style is made of advantages of womanly nature and manly nature various color and characteristic style. The survey as it has manly feeling along with sweet showed it had the most free and individual handsome man’s face. The image of male in image popular culture is getting free from the artificial Fifth, the character of fashion style in the standard which has divided male’s image and group classified as 'Toy Boy' type is the trial female’s image. Accordingly it seems that males trying to show the young and cheerful image as will try to secure the base to find and express a whole by the colorful and casual suit with various charms. Because ideal image of male is sneakers and cap. Its make-up is bright skin rapidly changing to the demand of the era, as a ton while recently smoky eye make-up starts to marketing data for male appearance appear and as hair style, baby firm style of management market, the persistent study for bright color dying dominates. trend image which reflects the demand of era Sixth, the fashion style of the group classified will be required. as 'Home Fatal' type had dark and showy image As the successful image making of stars can even though strong tone of non-color class be achieved only when the sense of beauty and existed. The tight suit with see-through style value is reflected on external and internal fabric and choker style necklace stud with appearance, the persistent study of ideal image hobnail emphasizes sensational image. In and image making of stars who are loved by the make-up, thick skin make-up and smoky mass will be necessary with the study of make-up with dark shadow and lipstick make-up changes in image of idol stars who lead the with red and nude tone emphasizes womanly trend. and sensational feeling. The hair style felt gorgeous with dark red tone, brown color dying and artificial mode. The survey showed it had the most sensational, dark and gorgeous mage.
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Characteristics of fashion design per image type Num Image Representative Emotional Fashion Make-up Hair style ber type pictures image Skin tone Gentle, correction emotional, Achromatic color, Natural and eye brow Decent dandy 1 Elite luxurious, semi suit, Vest layered, brushup style, natural refined, narrow tie, belt, glasses centered brown color conservative natural make-up Light texture Black and white Clean skin dandy&shaggy achromatic colored, slight expression Urban cut style, 2 Urbane exposed, slim suit type, and smoky Chic chocolate simple style necklace, eyes&nude brown tone bracelet tone lips hair Active, Black-centered confident, achromatic color, Dark skin Mohican style tough, Charism arm&chest&stomach, etc. tone and making tough 3 tolerant, a exposed style, leather strong smoky feeling best, strong, strap necklace, leather make-up short hair masculine, belt, chain necklace sexy Socking make Black&red centered dark up such as Tough and color, street fashion, dark skin Rebellio shocking hair Characterful, leather jacket, hip-hop tone and 4 us style and free punk style, brilliant strong smoky Child diverse color necklace&bracelet, etc. make-up, dyeing metal accessories face painting, etc. Intimate, comfortable, cute, innocent, Bright colorful color, easy Bright and natural, Curl cute Toy casual, colorful sneakers, clean skin 5 vivacious, style, bright Boy sneakers, baseball cap, tone, natural young color dyeing earring, bracelet, watch pink lips looking, frail, energetic, simple The detail making the sexy image by using black centered achromatic Heavy strong Artificial color&strong tone primary Sensational, smoky formed styling Homme color, see-through, etc.,a 6 dark, make-up, red and heavy red Fatale lot of skin exposed and brilliant or nude tone tone brown decorative factor, lips hair metal-studded choker style necklace, ring, leather gloves
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