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The Midlands © Lonely Planet Publications 406 lonelyplanet.com THE MIDLANDS •• Orientation 407 THE MIDLANDS Orientation to Telford and Shrewsbury. The Peak District It is perhaps easiest to orientate yourself here is midway between the M1 and the M6. The Midlands by motorways. The M1 winds north from London, demarking the eastern third of the Information THE MIDLANDS region (which is bounded to the east by the The Heart of England Tourist Board (%01905- A1). It runs parallel with a line of the East 761100; www.visitheartofengland.com) has centralised Midlands’ major towns: Bedford, Northamp- tourist information for the region and is a ton, Leicester, Derby and Nottingham, in that good place to start your planning. ‘The heart of England’: that’s how Midlanders like to describe their region. Wits in Scotland order. The M40 does the same for the south and Wales quip that ‘the groin of Britain’ is more apt. If that’s so, then this nether region is and west of the region, passing Stratford- Activities more fertile than most. It has produced arguably the world’s greatest playwright in William upon-Avon and Warwick on its way to the The Peak District National Park is one of the Shakespeare, and millions still make the pilgrimage to his pretty birth-town, Stratford-upon- M42 and Birmingham in the centre of the finest areas in England for walking and cycling; Midlands. Routes spider out from Birming- see p446 for more details. It’s also home to the Avon. While a youthful Shakey frolicked by the River Avon, the magnificent Warwick Castle – ham: the M6 runs east towards Coventry and start of the Pennine Way national trail, which still beautifully preserved – was being forged a short way upstream. Meanwhile, in Kenil- the M1, and northwest up towards Wolver- leads keen walkers for 268 miles through York- worth, another castle blossomed before it crumbled into disrepair and formed a hauntingly hampton, Stafford and Stoke-on-Trent; the shire and Northumberland into Scotland. The evocative ruin. And to the north the mighty Gothic Lichfield Cathedral scores highly on the M54 splits off at Wolverhampton to head over Pennine Bridleway starts south of the walking spine-tingling and memorable scale too. THE MIDLANDS 0 50 km 0A15 25 miles A58 A1077 Immingham Midlands’ cities do suffer a bad rap, however. WWII bombs, dire town planning, and a gritty Bury Rochdale Thorne Scunthorpe A160 Bolton A640 M62 A1077 Grimsby industrial history have tarnished their reputation. But now an infectious cosmopolitan energy Brigg Cleethorpes M60 Holmfirth Doncaster Oldham A618 Barnsley NORTH Caistor A618 LINCOLNSHIRE NORTHEAST is changing all that. Nightlife and shopping hotspots are booming – and they’re good value Leigh A628 Peak District LINCOLNSHIRE Redbourne Manchester National Park Rotherham M18 compared with London. And, once you’ve filled your boots with the urban good life, there’s A15 Ludborough North Stockport A1 Market Somercotes Sheffield A57 Gainsborough East Rasen Louth Mablethorpe plenty of rural relief. Walkers and bikers flock to the lovely Peak District, while unspoilt towns A57 Retford Manchester Wilmslow and villages distinguish the countryside of Northamptonshire and Nottinghamshire. Airport Castleton Wragby CHESHIRE A623 A619 Worksop Buxton Chesterfield A57 Lincoln A1104 Macclesfield A619 Sherwood Tuxford A6 Bardney Heart or groin, the message is clear: you shouldn’t neglect it. A54 Tideswell Newstead Forest Horncastle Skegness Congleton Abbey Ollerton Woodhall Spa Sandbach Biddulph Matlock A60 Grange STAFFORDSHIRE Mansfield LINCOLNSHIRE Revesby A5 Leek Newark- Crewe Matlock Southwell A16 North 1 Stoke- Bath Newstead on-Trent Leadenham 0 Sea Nantwich on-Trent DERBYSHIRE Ripley A53 Kedleston M1 Oxton Sleaford Newcastle- Ashbourne A46 Boston under-Lyme Longton Hall Eastwood A1121 Alton Towers Nottingham Bingham Audlem Rocester A15 Market A50 Derby Grantham Sutterton Drayton Stone Uttoxeter A52 NOTTINGHAMSHIRE Threekingham East Midlands A53 Eccleshall Belvoir A1 Burton- International Kegworth Castle Holbeach Shugborough Airport A41 Stafford upon-Trent Spalding King's Lynn Calke Melton Bourne HIGHLIGHTS Loughborough Mowbray Long Sutton Abbey A17 A4 Newport M6 A38 A50 Terrington St Cannock Coalville LEICESTERSHIRE Telford Conkers Clements Gailey RUTLAND A13 Drinking in the untamed beauty of the Peak Chase Lichfield Qaorn Stamford Crowland M6 Ashby- Syston Wisbech de-la- Oakham Rutland Downham District around Edale ( p449 ) M54 Tamworth Zouch Water Market A41 A47 Ironbridge Walsall M6 Bosworth Leicester Outwell Edale A4 Atherstone Uppingham Peterborough Strolling around the quirky lost ‘seaside’ 58 Gorge Drayton Battlefield Wolverhampton Lyddington NORFOLK Manor Kirby Hall March resort of Matlock Bath ( p442 ) Bridgnorth Nuneaton M69 M1 Park Market CAMBRIDGESHIRE Dudley Corby SHROPSHIRE Birmingham Harborough Oundle A110 Getting down to the famous live music of Bedworth Rushton Littleport Matlock Stourbridge Birmingham Airport Lutterworth Chatteris 1 Bath M6 Triangular Glatton Warboys Ely Birmingham’s Jam House ( p416 ) Kidderminster Coventry Kettering Lodge Thrapston A1 Rugby Soham Warwick A14 Huntingdon Bromsgrove Brixworth A6 Marvelling at the human drama of a Shake- Leicester Castle Kenilworth NORTHAMPTONSHIRE A604 St Ives Birmingham Tem Great A10 e Witley Rushden speare play at Stratford-upon-Avon ( p422 ) Leamington Wellingborough SUFFOLK M5 Warwick Spa A Daventry Althorp M11 A45 Ombersley A45 Earls St Neots M11 A45A45 A45 Charlecote M1 CambridgeA45 A10 A45 Blasting off into the orbit of Leicester’s Warwick Northampton Barton BEDFORDSHIRE Worchester HEREFORDSHIRE Park A1 WARWICKSHIRE M11 National Space Centre ( p431 ) Stratford-upon-Avon A449 & WORCESTER Stratford- M1 MILTON Bedford A11 upon-Avon Sulgrave KEYNES Sandy Great Manor Towcester Newport Biggleswade Stepping back in time at the glorious, medi- Malvern M40 B184 Saffron Malvern A41 Pagnell A4 Hills A41 A43 Wolverton Walden 65 Evesham Banbury A41 A5 Clophil eval Warwick Castle ( p420 ) A417 M50 Royston Black A1 Milton B1383 Keynes A5 Ampthill w EastnorM50 Castle Moreton Brackley A5 Baldock TewkesburyA435 Buckingham OXFORDSHIRE LeightonA5 Hitchin Buzzard A4 Chipping Bicester Stansted 0 Luton A120 A120 Cheltenham Norton Luton Stevenage AirportA120A120 A A40 A40A40 A421 Airport M1 A41A436GLOUCESTERSHIRE BUCKINGHAMSHIRE HERTFORDSHIRE SawbridgeworthM11 POPULATION: 9.5 MILLION AREA : 11,551 SQ MILES Gloucester Woodstock A41A41 M1 A4 ESSEX 8 29 Aylesbury River Severn 7 A40 A 11 A4 A4 M 408 BIRMINGHAM •• History lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com BIRMINGHAM •• Orientation 409 THE MIDLANDS route and is designed for horse riding and off- ORIENTATION icBirmingham (http://icbirmingham.icnetwork.co.uk) road cycling as well as walking. About one-third BIRMINGHAM The one aspect of Birmingham that’s still indis- The local newspaper’s website. of a planned 350-mile route is now open. putably a nightmare is driving in it. The endless Travel West Midlands (www.travelwm.co.uk) Travel But these long-distance epics are the tip of %0121 / pop 977,087 ring roads, roundabouts and underpasses make planning from the main bus company. THE MIDLANDS the iceberg; the Peak District is crisscrossed Once a drab, grimy urban basket case, England’s it particularly confusing for motorists to navi- with a vast network of paths for walkers, second-largest city – nicknamed ‘Brum’ – gate. It’s wise to park somewhere and explore Laundry country lanes for touring cyclists, and tracks has spectacularly reinvented itself as a vi- the city on foot until you get your bearings. Laundry & Dry Cleaning Centre (%771 3659; 236 and bridleways for mountain bikers – with brant, cultural hot spot. Huge regeneration Taking the huge Council House as the Warwick Rd, Sparkhill) something for every level of ability. Ideal bases projects have breathed life into the industrial centre, to the west is Centenary Sq, the Inter- include the villages and towns of Buxton, landscapes and canals that crisscross the city; national Convention Centre and Symphony Left Luggage Matlock Bath, Edale and Castleton, or the now there are more glamorous shops, buzzing Hall, and the development at Gas St Basin and New Street station (%632 6884; Station Forecourt; national park centre at Fairholmes on the pubs and jumping nightclubs than you can Brindleyplace. locker hire per day £5.50; h7am-11pm Mon-Sat, 8am- Derwent Reservoirs. Bikes can be hired at shake a bargepole at. Southeast of the Council House, most 10pm Sun) Fairholmes and various other points around Mind you, it’s still no oil painting. The fa- of Birmingham’s shops can be found along the Peak District, especially in the areas where miliar destructive brew of WWII bombs and pedestrianised New St and in the modern Media old railway lines have been converted into woeful town planning left a legacy of concrete City Plaza, Pallasades and Pavilions shopping Various free magazines fill hotel lobbies, bars delightful walking and cycling tracks. and ring roads that will probably never fully centres. The Arcadian centre is further south, and restaurants, providing handy updates on In the south of the Midlands region, other be disguised. But, no matter: Birmingham is but still in the centre, and marks the begin- current exhibitions, restaurants, and the hip- good places for walking and cycling include making the most of what it’s got. Established ning of Chinatown. Between New St station pest bars and clubs. Pick of the bunch is the Cannock Chase and, for those who are after cultural and architectural gems dot the
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