May 2018
Merkava Mk. I Death Star First IDF tank Night light The Panther experience Building the new RFM amazing kit
Two new gifts inside
Leganes 2018 modelling contest Flettner Fl 282 Kolibri Sd.Kfz. 251/1 Ausf.A New ICM kit Sponsored by
Is published by Coronel Caramel S.l. CIF B54483052 Editorial office & administration Club de fútbol Hercules 6 03008 Alicante Spain Te: 965112833 Email: [email protected]
Director: Federico Collada Editor: Federico Collada Design: Federico Collada Graphics: Federico Collada Models and photographs: Federico Collada
Editorial When the market is saturated with dozens of renditions of the same tank from many different producers three of them who didn’t have it already have coincided in offering their own with the same idea in mind, this time they would offer it with complete interiors. I’m talking about the new Panthers from Meng, Takom and Rye field Model; all of them being released with a few weeks difference and trying to claim they have made the best Panther kit up to date. Comparing them is not easy and not too many modellers will buy the three of them to do so, instead you have to rely on the opinion of different modellers who will tackle one of the different kits. In my case I have started building the RFM kit as it’s the sample that was provided to the magazine. I have split the article due to the complexity of the project. Tackling this kit involves not only the building and painting of the exhaustively detailed interior but also dealing with the transparent parts of this special edition to let the interior show in some “congruent” way. But this issue has other articles too; you will see the new ICM kit of the Sd.Kfz. 251/1 Ausf.A, a special article showing how to recycle a very old and poor quality model into something funny and useful….and more things.
Federico Collada
3 Index Page 6
Page 24 Page 32
Page 40
6 - IDF street base 8 - Blitzscales previews 24 - Leganes contest 2018 32 - Flettner FL 282 Kolibri 47 - The Martin Csanadi gift galore 51 - The Panther experience- part 1 58 - Death Star night light 68 - Sd.Kfz. 251/1 Ausf. A
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Page 47
Page 58
Page 68
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Cut & paste
1- Print the opposite page, resize if you need to fit your wood base
2- Varnsh to protect the printing
3- Glue onto a wood base using white glue
4- Press softly with a sponge to eliminate any air bubbles
7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 Leganés modelling contest One more time the Leganés modelling contest has welcomed modellers from everywhere during a friendly weekend where the visitors enjoyed the high quality of more than 1000 pieces that covered the varied categories from the classical AFV, planes, figures, etc to the growing fantasy, sci- fi, scratch, and other groups. Little by little the Leganés contest has climbed to the Spanish main positions becoming of the most relevant modelling meetings, maybe the key is the excellent organisation of the Model 34 group that ensured a pleasant and efficient weekend for everyone, or maybe it’s the location, leganés is in the “middle” for all the Spanish modelling fans, maybe it’s the opportunity of enjoying the local delicious gastronomy while having a nice time with friends we see from time to time and from contest to contest. In fact I’m sure is due to all this together and the famous Spanish weather that even in march can be warm and sunny if you’re lucky, so you can consider visiting Leganés more or less as a holidays weekend to enjoy modelling at its best, learning form the many masters demos programmed during Saturday and Sunday, buying all kind of models and accessories at the many stands near the exhibition and why not, having some wine and tapas with your friends.
24 many thanks to Model 34 and Daniel garcía Jerónimo for sharing their pictures 25 many thanks to Model 34 and Daniel garcía Jerónimo for sharing their pictures
26 27 many thanks to Model 34 and Daniel garcía Jerónimo for sharing their pictures
28 29 many thanks to Model 34 and Daniel garcía Jerónimo for sharing their pictures 30 31 Scale; 1/35 Producer;Miniart
Full metal Kolibri front and lacked any kind of protection even to The Flettner FL 282 inclement weather. was a German synchronized The first to use the intermeshing rotor helicopter, derived Kolibri was the German marine that form the previous FL265 helicopter evaluated the first two prototypes in 1942 it 7.7 litre displacement, seven-cylinder to soon place a 45 units order. Late in the Siemens-Halske Sh 14 radial engine war the Luftwaffe considered converting of 150-160 hp placed at the centre of the basic design adding an observer the fuselage. The Fl 282’s fuselage was station at the rear and ordered 1000 units constructed from steel tube covered with to be delivered in 1944 but the bombing fabric, and it landed on a tricycle fixed under of the Munich BMW plant caused only 24 the fuselage. The pilot station was at the helicopters being produced.
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1 and 2; the first parts to be glued form the fuselage and the side frames that support the engine.
3, 4 and 6; the engine is made of several parts that fit very well but some study and test is advisable before gluing them.
6 and 7; the first rotor parts will be the base of something more complex, be sure you align the parts correctly.
8; the acrylic putty is perfect for small hollows, it can be cleaned off with some alcohol and a cloth, no sanding is required
33 First time in 1/35 scale that include markings for four different helicopters, all of them belonging to the The new kit form Miniart has been quite Kriegsmarine and used between 1942 surprising as the FL 282 has never been and 1943. The kit is a bit complex to build released in plastic in this scale; this has due to the many tubes involved in the been highly welcome by both aviation frames structure that supports the engine, and AFV modellers who can now enjoy a rotors and pilot station. Testing and gluing beautiful kit of such odd machine that will correctly all the parts will be the key when surely be the centre of many scenes from tackling this model. now on. I built it following the instructions and left The kit is made of light grey plastic parts, the propeller spades, wheels, etc to be a couple of transparent plastic parts, a few painted separately. photoetched metal ones and the decals
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9 and 10; just a little alcohol and a cotton swab or a cloth is enough to eliminate any excess of the acrylic putty; it doesn’t matter if it’s dry for hours but is better acting after some minutes.
11; the engine and the superior frame are attached now.
12 and 13; some tiny elements are added to the rotor.
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14; the engine is “caged” now and some new elements are added.
15, 16 and 17; the pilot station starts with frames too, it’s advisable to let the parts settle before adding the following ones so the frames can be steady.
18; the photoetched parts provide the more subtle details.
19; Joining the pilot station with the fuselage gives you now an idea of how the Kolibri will look like in the end. 17 18 19
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20; the crew seat will be placed over these frames; it makes you think how exposed he was while piloting the helicopter.
21; the arms of the landing tricycle are now in place, be sure you place them correctly.
The colours of a Kolibri Next I used a dark grey acrylic wash to draw lines between the panels and I decided to paint my model as the one recessed lines and some minutes later deployed at the anti-submarine ship KUJ blurred them with a thinner moistened brush 13 at the Baltic sea in May 1943. This to replicate the dragged stains. I repeated apparatus was painted light grey with a this trick with a couple of brown tones but white band at the rear and green propellers only at some zones, mostly at the engine spades. and rotors. I used the Vallejo range primers for I decided not to replicate any chipping in the basic colours and standard paints the helicopter to depict it as rather new and diluted with thinners for airbrushing some with just a few flight hours. highlights here and there, most of all trying I used again the acrylic washes to insist to replicate a zenithal illumination. Then a in some shadowing at the frame tubes and subtle shadowing and weathering helped then painted all the details like wheels, seat, increasing the contrast between some of the etc. elements, mostly at the engine and rotor. I carefully added all the loose parts to the And less at the fuselage as the helicopter fuselage and made sure the wheels were was supposed to be under constant correctly aligned as they would have to maintenance at the ship. support all the model weight, and with that I After priming and highlighting I airbrushed called the job done. a layer of gloss for a better decals Even when I’m a natural AFV modeller adaptation, once dry I used the Vallejo I like to tackle something different from decals medium and fix products to ensure a time to time and this has been a very perfect fitting and avoid any silvering. pleasant project, out of my comfort zone but Once the decals were placed and dry I very interesting as it helped me to better protected the model with a layer of satin understand this kind of machines I’m not varnish and let it dry for a couple of days. familiar with at all.
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22; before going on I painted the engine and surrounding frames, I used a dark green primer and a lighter tone for highlighting.
23; time now to paint the whole model, I taped the green zone and airbrushed a light grey primer overall.
24; then I used masking tape to paint the white band at the fuselage and once dry I airbrushed a layer of gloss varnish to place the decals.
25; with the decals protected with a layer of satin varnish I proceeded to add the rest of the Kolibri elements already painted.
37 38 39 Scale; 1/35 Producer; Takom
40 In 1969 The British cancelled the agreement they had with Israel for providing the Chieftain tank after they have share their 2 years experience testing the MBT under extreme conditions and providing the necessary data for upgrading the British tank. The rest of the countries that have supported Israel up to that day changed their policies and were now reluctant to provide modern AFV to the Jewish state that needed them so desperately after many battles that had drastically lowered the IDF tank stock. On the other side, the surrounding Arab states were receiving large stocks of modern tanks form the Soviet Union; this was the worst scenario for Israel. The decision was then to start producing their own MBT, based on their own experience and adapted to their own necessities. This way the Merkava was born in 1977. The new tank was heavily armoured, carried a powerful 105mm gun that could fire different kind of modern ammunition, NBQ protection, carried the engine at the front increasing the crew protection and could carry 10 fully equipped men that accessed the tank by a rear door. By 1981 the IDF had produced 250 vehicles of the first type.
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1 and 2 The suspension elements are nicely detailed but are not workable, if you want to put your Merkava on uneven terrain some surgery will be necessary. 3 The welding lines and other subtle details are finely reproduced. 4 and 5 The kit includes a jig that can be used to place both the wheels and tracks in position before gluing them, this way it’s easier to paint them. 6 All the suspension and running gear parts fit so nicely that you can finish this part of the assembling in a few minutes.
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7 The wheels are made in different parts so they can reproduce the rim lip correctly. 8 The rear access door can be placed in open or closed position. 9 Working on the hull where most of the details are reproduced, just a few elements are to be added. 10 Some details like extra links and hull hooks are cast as one piece so no positioning is possible. 11 The main gun is made of two halves, but the joint is not too noticeable once glued so not too much putty and sanding is required. 12 The rear entrance in open position. 13 The gun mantlet cover part don’t let the gun move, another element that will be fixed in the end. The kit With every Takom kit I build increases my opinion that they are the new Tamiya, they provide the modelling community with easy building high quality kits constantly targeted to the beginner and average modeller just the same as the Japanese company did many decades ago. I can’t help thinking of this as the kit I’m building today has been a Tamiya classic for many decades and no other option has been available since 1988 and although Hobbyboss and Meng have released the later version in recent years the original Mk.I model was somehow forgotten. Now we have a completely new tooled kit that is up to what any modeller can expect form a modern model kit. When we open the box we find the usual Takom parts panels made in good quality grey plastic, some transparent ones, a couple of photoetched parts, the necessary decals and a little tin foil. The instructions are not the small kind provided with some of their kits lately but the former big one where both the building process drawings and the painting instructions can be clearly seen. The whole tank is made of not too many parts as many details have been simplified or reproduced in larger parts to avoid a complicated building, this can be a drawback for the most experienced modellers, but will surely please the ones who dislike to deal with thousands of tiny parts to finish their models Building the kit The building starts by adding the suspension elements to the hull, these parts are well detailed but not workable, the tracks provided are links & length so any positioning but the indicated one is not possible, there is a jig to place all the parts correctly, even the tracks, but as they fir perfectly well to the hull this is not necessary. The idler wheel is provided with another jig to signal where the holes of the outer rim surface must be drilled. The running wheels are provided in two types, while the inner ones are made in a single piece, the outer ones are provided with separate rubber and metal rims for a more exact representation, all this is very easy as all the parts involved are big enough for handling. After adding some details to the upper hull part you must choose if you want to represent the rear access door open or closed. As I mentioned before, some details have been simplified for an easier building, the towing hooks are moulded together with their attaching plates, the spare links with their fixation points, the side skirts in a single piece, the jerrycan with its basket, etc. Passing to the turret the process is more or less the same than with the hull, adding the details is a straightforward job and only some care must be taken if you want to represent an early Mk.I model as some elements like the front MG, the chain and balls curtain, etc were added after the first action experiences. The main gun is provided in two halves but as the joint lines coincide with the thermal protection halves too not much putty and sanding will be required. Unfortunately although the gun shield is designed to pivot between the turret halves, the mantlet cover does not allow any movement so in the end the gun must be fixed in horizontal position. Decals are provided for two unidentified vehicles and the painting guide suggests the colours of the Mig brand. I simply selected one of them for my model and prepared it for the painting.
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14 to 17 The turret is completed with the photoetched grille basket floor, the typical chain curtain, etc. I didn’t plan to add any figures so all the hatches were fixed in closed position. 43 18 19 20
IDF colours Any modern AFV modeller is familiar with the colours that the IDF have used along the years and if a couple of decades ago it was a bit hard to get the exact shade of the “82” Sinai grey colour, nowadays every paint producer has it in the catalogue. I used the Vallejo set for IDF AFV as it includes this exact colour. I started priming the whole model with the 614 sand grey colour and then covered with 71142 Sinai grey 82. After that I highlighted some zones airbrushing lighter sand tones. Then I used acrylic washes to subtly alter the colour of some panels in order to get some variety. With pigments and acrylic mud I dirtied the lower part of the hull, suspension and wheels, painted the tracks with a dark brown primer mix and placed them on the tank. Next I airbrushed clear varnish to prepare the surface for the decals and once dry I placed them using the Vallejo decal fix and medium products to ensure a perfect adaption to the surface and avoid any further silvering. When done and dry I protected the job with a satin varnish layer. To enhance the details I used my own wash made with some dark brown and black oils diluted in turpentine, I always have a large amount of this shade prepared for desert camo AFVs. I applied the wash with a large brush and once dry I eliminated any excess with a cotton swab and clean turpentine. Then I repeated this process, this time using different brown tones acrylic washes eliminating the excess with thinner. I made the stowage and the panels with a latex glove, this material can be painted as the rest of the model and is so ductile you can adapt it to any uneven surface. Time now to dirty the vehicle, using pigments, both dry and mixed with water to create heavy accumulations or subtle layers; and insisting on the areas where more dust and dirt can be deposited such as around the turret ring, hull recessed corners, etc. The final touch was imitating the exposed metal where there is a constant rubbing like the sprocket teeth, handles…for this I used a graphite pencil and metallic pigment rubbed with a cloth. 21
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18 to 20 The idler wheel has some holes at the outer rim that must be drilled with the aid of a supplied jig. 21 and 22 Again the suspension jig will be useful to prepare the tracks sections
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24 25 23 The wheels, tracks and side skirts are kept aside for an easier painting. 24 and 25 After a white priming I painted the whole kit with the Sinai grey 82 colour 26 Some different tones of sand were used as filters to highlight the details and volumes airbrushing from a zenithal direction. 27 the acrylic filters were used to subtly the look of some elements.
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28 Acrylic mud and pigments were used to create heavy accumulations at the running gear. 29 The tracks were painted dark brown and later received successive rust washes. 30 The tank is now ready to place the decals 31 Using the right products can be decisive for a correct decals adaptation. 32 The home made dark brown wash enhances the lines and details of the model. 33 Further pin washes with acrylic paint accentuated the effect. 34 All the parts are now painted and in place so I can add the side skirts, and varnish everything to protect the painting job.
46 35 Working with vinyl is the easier way to replicate 35 canvas and rolls, and it can be painted as the rest of the model. 36 Speckling pigments mixed with water for some dry mud effect. 37 No need to protect the transparent parts, just peel the paint with a blunt tool, a toothpick will do. 38 and 39 Some graphite pigment and a pencil will be enough to imitate the polished metal.
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So this is all, I’ve been waiting to build a Merkava Mk. I for decades, ever since Tamiya released it back in the 80s, in those times I couldn’t get it and later it seemed too simplified for me so I lost my interest in that kit. Now I finally got a decent rendition and I must admit I have enjoyed it a lot. 47 48 Our friend from Germany shares his The Martin beautiful designs. Another altruist modeller that joins Csanadi gift Blitzscales to provide us with some very useful stuff for our galore models, just print and enjoy. 1/35 scale Hebrew coke boxes
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Scale; 1/35 Producer; Rye Field Model
There is nothing much to say about the Panther, its history is well known by every AFV modeller, the best German tank of the WWII and possibly the best of any nation that took part in the war. Its adequate balance of protection, firepower and manoeuvrability made it the king of the battlefield. The G type was the last and most produced version of the tank with 2961 units. Conceived as a counterpart for the Soviet T-34, the Panther was produced form 1943 until the end of the war and its impressive features made the allies quicken the development of heavier tanks capable of confronting the new German beast. 51 1 2 3
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The definitive Panther kit? The Panther has been always present in the AFV modelling market in every scale, from the early toy-like kits from Tamiya, Otaki and Airfix, to the most recent top quality ones from Dragon, Meng or Takom. But never before we have seen so exhaustive renditions as the new Rye Field Model kit; with so complete interiors that you can really understand how this tank was made, all the complexity of the design, how the crew lived in and how many elements should work perfectly so the whole machine could make it through the battlefield. The only flaw I can find in this model is precisely its main virtue, its complexity mat overwhelm many modellers and make it really inaccessible for beginners. This is the opposite to easy modelling, it’s a long time consuming kit that may take several months along which the modeller will have to deal with multitude of tiny and subtle plastic and photoetched parts that must be carefully placed in order to make all the groups fit together correctly. This is the reason why, being totally contrary of splitting an article I decided to show you the building and painting of this model in two separate chapters, the first one dedicated to the building and painting of the interior. 52 10 11 12
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1 to 5, the instructions suggest you begin building the main gun with the mantlet and the front part of the turret, everything here is plenty of detail and will take several hours to finish it. 6 to 9, the periscopes of the commander’s cupola are provided in transparent plastic, some aluminium foil behind them will imitate the typical reflexion. 10, you can see the transparent turret with many of the non transparent parts already placed. 11 to 13, the turret floor is also cramped with details, many of the elements involved must be carefully tested before gluing or else you won’t be able to go on. 14 and 15, all these details will bring the model to life once painted and teaches us some things about design planning. 16 and 17, same happens with the driver and mg/radio operator stations, the many elements there shows how the crew should have managed in their positions. 18, the rear grilles and plates can be left unglued if desired.
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A special edition of a special kit
I received a sample of the first edition of this kit that includes transparent plastic parts to show the interior once finished. The plastic quality is very good and can be glued as the rest of non transparent parts being careful of trying not to exceed wit the glue to avoid staining it. The mayor problem with these parts is trying to decide how to use them as they’re to be mixed with standard parts. You can simply avoid painting them and fixing all the rest of parts once painted and weathered, or you can simply paint everything as any normal model renouncing to show the interior through the transparencies. Or you can take a midway leaving transparent “windows” covering zones of the transparent parts until you finish the painting process. This was the decision I chosen after long time considering all the possibilities. Let’s see if it was worth the effort. 54 28 29 30
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19 and 20, inside the hull the torsion bars and surrounding frames are a bit complicated, some patience is advisable at this stage. 21 Before going on I primed the interior as most of the elements would be inaccessible later on. 22 Many of the photoetched parts need to be bent carefully to get the right shape; the bender tool will be very useful here. 23 to 27, the transmission with all its levers, pedals, etc is one of the most detailed sections of the tank, as you add parts you realize how complex the tank was. 28 and 29, the engine, beautifully detailed, it’s a pity that very little of it will be seen once the tank is finished, even through the transparent parts. 30 An airbrushed medium grey acrylic wash acted as a filter that enhanced the details of the interior as well as it provided a darker tone to the basic colour. 31 and 35, some subtle staining and details painting before adding more parts, some of them will be painted before placing. 33 Like the ammunition, the typical golden look can only be achieved airbrushing the right tone. 34 to 36, painting and staining as the rest of the inside hull elements are added, it really begins to look a bit cramped. 55 37 38 39
40 41 42 AIRFIX Quickbuild AIRFIX Engineer
43 44 45
AIRFIX Modeling 37 and 38, the sprocket wheel gears works like AIRFIX starterSET the real ones; although not necessary it’s a nice touch from RFM 39 The engine was painted with just some staining over the basic colours as very little of it would later be seen. 40 The combat station inside the hull is ready now. 41 The engine is in place. The classic for assemblers, 42 The fuel tanks and fans must align correctly for the upper part of the hull to fix properly. starters and professional modelers! 43 to 45, some masking tape created the “windows” through which part of the interior will be seen once finished. The cream colour paint served for the test. Next chapter I will show you the turret For more information Glow2B Germany GmbH inside painting work and the exterior too. simply scan the QR-Code. Erlenbacher Str. 3 42477 Radevormwald Tel. +49 (0) 2195.92773-0, Fax +49 (0) 2195.92773-29 56 [email protected], www.glow2b.de Für weitere Informationen einfach QR-Code scannen. Max-Planck-Straße 3 Tel. +49 (0) 2195.92773-0 [email protected] Max-Pl4a247n7 Rcadekvor-mSwaltd raFaßx +e49 (0 3) 2195Glow2B_Airfix_english.indd.92773-29 wTwew.glo.w 2b .de+ 149 (0) 2195.92773-0 [email protected] 24.04.18 13:01 42477 Radevormwald Fax +49 (0) 2195.92773-29 www.glow2b.de AIRFIX Quickbuild AIRFIX Engineer
AIRFIX Modeling AIRFIX starterSET
The classic for assemblers, starters and professional modelers!
For more information Glow2B Germany GmbH simply scan the QR-Code. Erlenbacher Str. 3 42477 Radevormwald Tel. +49 (0) 2195.92773-0, Fax +49 (0) 2195.92773-29 [email protected], www.glow2b.de57 Für weitere Informationen einfach QR-Code scannen. Max-Planck-Straße 3 Tel. +49 (0) 2195.92773-0 [email protected] Max-Pl4a247n7 Rcadekvor-mSwaltd raFaßx +e49 (0 3) 2195Glow2B_Airfix_english.indd.92773-29 wTwew.glo.w 2b .de+ 149 (0) 2195.92773-0 [email protected] 24.04.18 13:01 42477 Radevormwald Fax +49 (0) 2195.92773-29 www.glow2b.de Scale; Unknown Producer; AMT
In Blitzscales 11 I begun a series of articles dedicated to those awful model we have, forgotten in corners because we bough them in a stupid impulse just because we found them funny at a time. These kits are more toys than models and would not turn into exact scale replicas no matter how hard we try. But this doesn’t mean we have to throw them away or try to get rid of them, they can still provide us some amusement while we find some alternative use for them instead of the traditional scale models that sometimes they pretended to be. This time I will show you how I turned the AMT old death star kit into a night lamp for my kid. Working with the kit was not as hard as trying to imagine what would be the best way to illuminate it. Finally I decided to use a battery powered led sphere instead of an inner lamp powered by the electric current avoiding this way using any wires.
58 1 The kit is so simple that is made of just eight parts, each one is a quarter part of a semi sphere that they are supposed that fit together with a little pressure.
2 Even being so simple, fitting is not very good, some fastening and glue is required.
3 I built the kit two halves and ensured that the fitting was rigid and steady.
4 I covered the inner joints with black acrylic mud to seal them.
5 A black primer at the inside would ensure any transparency.
59 6 With a double adhesive faced sponge tape I made a lip that would let me open and close the lamp when needed.
7 I applied the same black primer on the outside too.
8 Next I airbrushed a grey filter insisting in different zones.
60 9 Another lighter grey filter was enough to reach the desired tone.
10 I added some plastic parts to the base to make it look more elaborated and primed it with satin black.
11A couple of washes using dark brown and dark grey enhanced the “details” of the kit. Once ready I placed the led lamp inside and that’s all. The whole project took just three hours.
61 62 63 64 65 www.fcmodeltrend.com Scale; 1/35 Producer; ICM The Sd.Kfz. 251 was the main armored personnel carrier of the Wehrmacht during WWII; designed by Hanomag and with more than 15.000 units produced, it served as a base for 22 special vehicles and it was used in every war theatre where the German army was involved. The Ausf.A model was the first one to be delivered in 1939 and it was produced in small numbers, it was easy to identify from the other versions due to the fighting compartment side vision slots, the two parts frontal armor and other minor details. 1 The Hanomag, as it was 1 to 6, the building commonly known had two MG- starts with the lower part 34 placed at the front and rear of the hull and engine, of the fighting compartment everything fits smoothly and the 10 men transported and soon is ready for could fire their personnel guns priming. and grenades over the open 7 to 9, the base colour is top. the Vallejo Dunkelgrau One of the most successful primer, successive 2 points of the design was the airbrushed filters with overlapped wheels common medium grey and white to all German half-tracks of highlighted details the period that provided a low and created a zenithal ground pressure and very illumination. good traction.
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16 The kit
The Hanomag has been always present in the AFV modeling world as anyone could expect from such a representative axis vehicle. I can recall the times when the only available kits 1/35 scale where the toy-like Tamiya and Nitto ones, then along came Dragon and AFV club who offered us their excellent renditions, plenty of photoetched parts, some extras and tackling almost every version made, but somehow the A type 17 was never within their news announcements and modelers had to wait for decades before having a decent kit of the original vehicle. 10 and 11, some different brown acrylic washes provided the first dirt accumulations on the hull floor and sides. 12 to 17, I airbrushed gloss varnish to prepare the surface for the decals, once dry I 18 placed them using Vallejo decal fix and after a couple of minutes I moistened them in place with the decal medium that softens them for a better surface adaptation. 18 For the outside staining I used the same filters than previously. Finally ICM has released a very nice kit, in their usual easy-modelling way, with good details, nice fitting, engine included, etc. The decals provided include markings for four different vehicles used in Russia, France and Greece. I chosen one of the Russian schemes for my model and started working on it as soon as I got the kit at home.
19 and 20, I used the rust texture special paint for the exhaust and some subtle chipping over the surface. 21, the lower part of the vehicle received a generous amount of acrylic mud and pigments. 22 to 25, the tracks were primed with a dark brown/black mix and then received successive acrylic rust tones washes and pigments to add some texture. 26 and 27, the pigments wash technique using earth tones provided the second dust and dirt accumulation both in and outside the vehicle. 21
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71 28, with the weathering part of the job ready I protected the model with a layer of matt varnish. 29 to 36, the stowage was made with elements from the spares box and some rolls made form vinyl gloves, this is a very versatile material as it can be painted as the standard kit plastic and is ductile enough to adapt it to any position even once painted.
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