Issue No. 191 Friday, September 25 - Thursday, October 08, 2015 ORDER DELIVERY TO Croatian Serbia Mt. Zlatibor YOUR DOOR +381 11 4030 303 landmines entering draws record [email protected] - ISSN 1820-8339 1 pose new new totalitarian number of BELGRADE INSIGHT IS PUBLISHED BY 0 1 threat to era, director domestic refugees says tourists Page 5 Page 6 Page 9 9 7 7 1 8 2 0 8 3 3 0 0 0 Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent Dutchman Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because bia has shown us that (a.) no single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in Serbia, i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough Giant duck becomes EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser sees Serbia - - - Belgrade resistance symbol as landNEWS of opportunity

Replica of a yel- NEWS low duck used Serbia is a good “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: by the Initiative place to start party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing capital investments, Kosovo and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday. “Let’s not drown a business for foreigners who Belgrade”, became page 10 are not scared a symbol of resis- of the slow and tance against the

cumbersome hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro -

controversial “Bel- a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials Neighbourhood Matters faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football pean Championships in Austria and pean Championships in Switzerland, Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. bureaucracy. W grade Waterfront” June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday, project. Stevan VELJOVIĆ

ears of working in the re- page 5 Saša DRAGOJLO gion for a Dutch NGO, in which one project was help- embers of the Ser- ing young people start their bian government own businesses, helped were startled RalphY van der Zijden discover unlikely conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the when they first business opportunities in Belgrade. After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party saw a giant yellow In 2011, he founded the company, E styrofoam duck IBikeBelgrade, offering guided cy- Min front of parliament on April 2nd. That cle tours through Belgrade on which two-metre replica duck was the work young people could learn about the of a “flash mob” action organized by ac- city without getting bored by facts and Friday • June 13 2008 tivists from “Let’s not drown Belgrade” history. - the most persistent opponents of the “I used to work in the region in Ko- Belgrade Waterfront project, which the sovo and Macedonia, and later also in mayor of Belgrade calls “the biggest Croatia, Bosnia and Serbia, I kept on project in Europe”. THIS ISSUE OF

seeing business opportunities - things Belgrade Insight IS SUPPORTED BY: IS SUPPORTED that are very common in other Euro- on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic pean capitals but that did not happen in which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. T Belgrade yet,” he says. Continued on page 3 River police at the Belgrade Boat Carnival on August 29th confiscated a banner with the name of the initiative on it. Photo: Facebook He loved the region so much that he quit his job in Holland and moved to Belgrade as “the only really big city in the region”. Albanians see red “I wanted to start small, so if it failed I would not lose too much. I started with a second-hand bike, a website and about Tirana’s new bunker some flyers,” he recalls. Luckily for him, the business started Mysterious decision to erect a new bunker in ing the pavement and creating a pedes- They accused the government of be- well, encouraging him to expand oper- trian zone. ing insensitive to the feelings of tens of ations to the northern city of Novi Sad, Tirana prompts claims that the left-wing govern- The project plan has not been made thousands people who suffered under where iBikeNoviSad now organizes available to the public, however, and Hoxha’s rule, a viewpoint shared by similar tours. ment feels nostalgic for Albania’s old dictator. no one knows what the bunker is sup- many. posed to mean. On Saturday, dozens of police were DEALING WITH Gjergj EREBARA The centre-right opposition Demo- The government has offered no deployed around the new bunker to THE BUREAUCRACY cratic Party is so angry about what it explanation for what it is doing, or re- protect it from the ire of the protesters, ens of thousands of Com- sees as Communist-era nostalgia that vealed who conceived and designed it. some of whom were arrested or sum- Having an eye for the market is one munist-era bunkers re- its supporters even attempted to re- Inevitably, some see it as part of a moned later to police stations. thing, but being an entrepreneur is not main scattered around Al- move by force over the last few days. larger trend towards reviving the cult The Democratic Party leader, Lul- just about ideas, it also includes dealing bania – a legacy of former Observers meanwhile are wonder- of Hoxha, the Stalinist who ruled Alba- zim Basha, has called for more protests with officialdom. dictator Enver Hoxha’s ing about the bunker’s wider meaning. nia with an iron fist from the end of the against the bunker and others have Serbian laws don’t differ between Tparanoid fear of invasion. The bunker is being built near the Second World War till his death in 1985. threatened acts of civil disobedience. residents and non-residents when it Now a new one is going up in the cen- Ministry of Interior, where the govern- Protesters organized by the Demo- comes to starting a business. tre of Tirana, however, built at the behest ment earlier this year started an urban cratic Party on September 18th showed of the left-wing government of Edi Rama. renewal project with the aim of rebuild- up near the bunker and tried to destroy it. Continued on page 8 Continued on page 7

+381 11 4030 306 [email protected]

One of the protests against the project on July 30th. Photo: Facebook 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 25 - Thursday, October 08, 2015 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 25 - Thursday, October 08, 2015 3 SERBIA SERBIA

Continued from page 1

FLOOD OF CRITICISM FOR Giant duck WATERFRONT Kosovo and Serbia offer CONTRACT Talks about the Belgrade Wa- terfront project started in 2014. becomes Plans include the construction of the residential and office build- heavens for jail-dodgers ings, the largest shopping mall in the Balkans, a hotel, an opera Belgrade house and a skyscraper. when they are arrested by Pristina’s po- “Serbia was never interested in having He escaped from Serbia to avoid a Convicted criminals from Kosovo and Aleksandar Vučić, the Prime Min- lice. a bilateral agreement with Kosovo on the three-year prison sentence for drug ister, says the project is extreme- Serbia only have to cross each other’s This is because the Serbian govern- extradition issue because we [Kosovo] smuggling and other criminal offences. ly important for the development ment refuses to accept any documents would ask for all the [Serbian] criminals Vulićević was in detention on remand resistance of the country. borders in order to escape serving from Kosovo courts because it does not that committed war crimes in Kosovo to in Kosovo but was then released, his law- jail sentences for the crimes that they recognise the Pristina authorities’ claims be sent back here,” Korenica said. yer told BIRN. The government signed the con- to independence. An incident earlier this year highlight- “He is free now. He was released from tract for the project with Eagle committed. Serbia also refuses to cooperate when ed Korenica’s point. detention because Serbia did not made Hills, a company in the United Kosovo criminals wanted by Interpol are In February, on the basis of a request an extradition request,” said lawyer Ka- symbol Arab Emirates, on April 26th. hiding in Serbia. from UNMIK, Interpol issued ‘red no- pllan Baruti. The justice ministry in Pristina said tices’ for 17 former members of Serbian In February 2015, Kosovo and Serbia However, the project has caused that it has a technical agreement with forces, including a ruling party MP, over reached an agreement on integrating the controversy. The government has the EU rule-of-law mission in Kosovo, allegations that they committed war courts in Serb-run northern Kosovo into his Sunday protesters A PROTEST AGAINST APATHY been accused of failing to respect EULEX, to facilitate extradition issues crimes in Kosovo in April 1999. Pristina’s judicial system – an attempt to expect to draw a big legal procedures, censorship of with countries that do not recognise Ko- The notices, the closest thing to an in- fill the justice vacuum in the north of the crowd in opposition to While the repressive actions of the the project's opponents and the sovo’s independence. ternational arrest warrant, were issued country. the scheme, as the Prime authorities have given the initiative vis- lack of transparency. “We even have this line of communi- as a result of an investigation by EULEX But Naim Rashiti from the Internation- Minister lays the founda- ibility in the media, this is only on the in- cation with Serbia,” the ministry’s press into crimes committed in the villages of al Crisis Group said that just integrating tion stone. ternet. Mainstream media ignore it. After five months, the govern- office told BIRN. Meja, Korenica, Orize and others in the the Serb judges and prosecutors into the T Kozma, one of the protesters, re- Almost 24,000 people “like” the or- ment published the contract on One of the protests against the project on July 30th. Photo: Facebook th The justice ministry declined howev- Suva Reka/Reka e Keq area during the Kosovo system is not enough. called that the duck first appeared in ganization on Facebook but the protests September 20 . er to say how many bilateral agreements Kosovo conflict. “Even after the integration of the judg- front of parliament when MPs were usually draw around 500 people. about to adopt a “lex specialis”, a law th “The duck” has also caused problems Documents published on the on extradition it has with countries that Most of the men live in Serbia, but Bel- es and prosecutors in the north, realisti- Kozma thinks that it is not a bad num- in front of city hall on March 27 , “it was enabling the expropriation of private quite irritating for the local chiefs”. with the police on its natural habitat - the government website show that have recognised Kosovo’s statehood. grade refused to arrest them for two rea- cally there will be little impact because ber, considering the media blockade and urban land to start the Water- The police arrested three of our activ- water. the parties in the project are the But extradition problems mean that sons - because Serbia does not extradite Serbia does not recognise Pristina’s and the apathy prevailing among most front. “That was the moment when people. ists, a journalist who took statements River police at the Belgrade Boat Car- government’s “Belgrade water- some convicted criminals get away. its own citizens for war crimes as they authority, it doesn’t recognise the deci- ‘the duck’ came to say that everything “People think they can’t change from us and also the people who passed nival on August 29th confiscated a banner front” company and “Belgrade One high-profile example is the for- are protected by the constitution, and sions of Kosovo courts - and vice versa,” about the Waterfront was a big fraud,” anything. Young people are apa- by to greet us,” he said. with the name of the initiative on it, and waterfront equity investments” mer mayor of Kačanik, Xhabir Zharku, because it doesn’t recognise authorities Rashiti told BIRN. he said. thetic and disoriented, but I think “They charged us with ‘sharing a temporarily banned their place on the as its strategic partner. who was sentenced in 2011 to three in Kosovo. “Serbia still lacks the will to communi- After the duck attracted attention, that we are making changes,” newspaper’ and told us that citizens ships’ parade for which they had registered. years in prison for extortion and the il- According to Korenica, Kosovo’s gov- cate with Pristina. It is legally forbidden th a protest was organized on April 26 , he said. have no right to express their opinion in “The river police told us that we are Al Mabar International Invest- Criminals easily evade justice between Serbia and Kosovo. Photo by Beta/Arminija Bešević legal possession of weapon. ernment has refused a recommendation for them,” he said, referring to Serbia’s called “Let’s show them the duck,” timed Sunday’s protest across from the Geo- that way,” he added. Trial was scheduled not allowed to use the banner ‘Let’s not ments, from the UAE, is the guar- The supreme court confirmed the from civil society groups in Pristina to in- rejection of Kosovo’s independence. to take place when the project contract zavod building is timed to take place for September 24th after this issue of Bel- drown Belgrade’ because it was a ‘politi- antor. Petrit COLLAKU name was removed from the Interpol sentence in 2012, but Zharku escaped clude an extradition agreement as a con- Rashiti said the institutional vacuum was to be signed. when Prime Minister Aleksandar Vučić grade Insight goes to print. cal’ message,” Lazović said. wanted list and the Kosovo authorities to Sweden and cannot be extradited to dition in the ongoing Brussels-mediated and the lack of cooperation made it the “A lot of people liked the duck as a and Muhamed al Abar, director of Eagle The next incident happened on April “When we asked why we were banned The deadline for implementa- emja Xhema got a hero’s wel- ceased to pursue her. Kosovo because he holds Swedish citi- dialogue with Serbia aimed at normalis- northern part of Kosovo a safe haven for symbol and as ‘duck’ has a multi-layered Hills, are due to lay the foundation stone. 26th when they organized a protest from the parade, they responded: ‘You tion is 30 years. After 20 years come when she arrived in the Criminals like Xhema have repeatedly zenship. ing relations. Serbian criminals. meaning, we made it a trademark of the They expect around 2,000 people or against the signing of the contract. know why,’” Lazović concluded. the first evaluation of progress town of Kosovo Polje/Fushe been able to evade justice in Kosovo by When asked about whether EULEX The recent agreement between Ko- “It is politics that made this happen. initiative,” Radomir Lazović, another more to come this time. “The authorities did not want the elite The protesters say such actions by the will take place. The project will Kosove near Pristina earlier escaping to other countries and so avoid could offer assistance in such extradi- sovo and Serbia to bring the courts in the Criminals are allowed to hide in the protester, said. “Organizations from other cities are to see the protest and someone ordered authorities reveal the real nature of their be evaluated positively if 50 per this month, campaigning for spending time in prison. tion cases, spokesperson Besa Domi Serb-dominated north under Pristina’s north and they cause many trouble,” He said he was surprised at how going to come to support us. People from two trams to stop exactly in front the pro- relationship with the public. cent of the project is complete by Lvotes in a municipal election. Fugitives can also return without fear responded: “If there is a valid warrant legislative control is not enough, Kore- said Rashiti. quickly the duck became a thorn in the Novi Sad are arranging a ‘duck-bus’ for testers. Mayor Siniša Mali said the pro- “The authorities in this country don’t then. In some other countries however, of arrest if they are not extradited in time for the arrest of these persons, it is up to nica argued. Meanwhile Kreshnik Gashi from eye of the police. people to join us on Sunday,” Lazović testers stopped the trams but we have like their own citizens. Here, national Xhema would have been in jail, not run- because of the statute of limitations in the Kosovo Police to execute the war- “Kosovo has become a territory of BIRN’s weekly TV show ‘Justice in Ko- “Sometimes it is ridiculous how they noted. “And we all know how they are proven that is untrue,” he added. and public interest has nothing to do Apart from government officials, ning for election. Kosovo’s Criminal Code. rant.” people wanted by the law. These people sovo’ criticised local judges who don’t are bothered by the duck. It looks like scared of the duck.” “We got a response from the City Pub- with the needs and wishes of citizens. few experts have voiced positive The former head of Kosovo Post and Tele- Legal experts in Kosovo further claim can commit crimes here and can go any- take urgent steps to prevent criminals they are afraid they will get a direct order lic Transport that the police ordered Dodgy business and the private interests views about the project or the com was found guilty of corruption in 2008 that the criminals can live freely as fugi- FEAR OF WAR where in the world, staying free and not fleeing, especially when they also have to arrest it,” Lazović said. CENSORSHIP them to stop the trams,” Kozma contin- of economic and political elites are all contract. and sentenced to three years in prison. tives because Pristina is still not a mem- CRIMES PROSECUTIONS being chased by the forces of justice,” he citizenship of another country in which “Let’s not drown Belgrade” was set up AND OBSTRUCTION ued. that matters,” Macura said. “But, no matter how hard they try, they Nemanja Nenadić, from Trans- But before the supreme court con- ber of the Interpol and Europol police said. they can take refuge without fear of ex- in 2014 to oppose the Belgrade Water- Rodoljub Šabic, Commissioner for front’s objectives, consequences and the cannot prohibit people from thinking,” parency Serbia, told BIRN that firmed the sentence in 2011, she fled - re- institutions which would help with ex- Kosovo’s main problems stem from tradition. “Let’s not drown Belgrade” has en- Information of Public Importance in way the process of planning and the le- Serbia, said there are two theories about he concluded. procedures “were completely portedly to her hometown of Medveđa/ traditions. the fact that it is not a member of interna- NORTH KOSOVO’S “In such cases, the courts should take countered major problems with the galizing the project was carried out. authorities because of their protests what happened. The protesters believe they can build hidden from the public eye”. Medvegje in Serbia. tional police organisations like Interpol ‘SAFE HAVEN’ decisions to confiscate passports and It has drawn in a number of associa- against the Waterfront. “One is that a group of anonymous a new kind of solidarity and civic aware- An Interpol arrest warrant was issued THE KOSOVO and Europol, said Fisnik Korenica from travel documents from those who are tions, independent organizations, ex- The initiative has set up its own news- citizens who occasionally dress in police ness from the current movement. Jelena Jerinić, a legal expert, told by the UN mission in Kosovo, UNMIK, INDEPENDENCE ISSUE the Group for Legal and Political Studies, Predrag Vulićević, a Serbian citizen accused,” said Gashi. perts, lawyers, academics, journalists, paper, in which they collected all the ex- uniform were cruising the city, stopping “People need to organize themselves. BIRN that the contract was un- on behalf of the Pristina authorities be- a Pristina-based think tank. known as ‘Peđa’, was arrested on March He warned that as long as Serbia re- architects and urban planners. perts’ various objections “in one place”. traffic and blocking streets…. The other Even if we lose this battle, the war is not constitutional because the gov- cause Kosovo is not a member at the in- Fugitives from Serbia can also escape But Korenica argued that the Serbian 2015 by Kosovo police in the north of the fuses to arrest people wanted by Kosovo Their idea is to stress the importance But when they tried to share the in- is that the police acted on the orders of over. The most important thing is that ernment had in practice com- ternational police organisation. jail by fleeing to Kosovo’s northern, Serb- government its own problems when it divided town of Mitrovica on an Interpol and vice versa, criminals will continue of popular participation in the develop- formation with people on the street, it some influential people outside police people realize they can make a change,” mitted itself not to change the But after the statute of limitations in majority area because Belgrade does not comes to extradition requests for fugi- warrant arrest which was issued by the to exploit these opportunities to escape ment of the city, both in terms of the Bel- turned out to be illegal. structures,” Šabic said. “Both are equally Lazović said. law for 30 year, which gives the her case expired in May 2014, Xhema’s request the extradition of its criminals tives hiding in Kosovo. Serbian authorities. justice. grade Waterfront and the wider develop- Marko Macura, from the initiative, said bad and undesirable,” he wrote in a blog “Just for start - let’s show them ‘the investor immunity to Serbian law. ment of the city as a whole. that when they handed out their paper on B92 site. duck’ on Sunday,” he concluded. 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 25 - Thursday, October 08, 2015 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 25 - Thursday, October 08, 2015 5 BELGRADE SERBIA Few refugees turn Croatian landmines pose to Belgrade’s new threat to refugees mosque Increasing numbers of refugees have been crossing the Croatia- As thousands of refugees travel Serbia border, some taking illegal through Serbia on their way to EU routes through dangerous territory states, Belgrade’s only mosque has contaminated by landmines left over not received as many visitors as some from the 1990s war. might have expected.

Filip AVRAMOVIĆ Ivana NIKOLIĆ bia over the past year. But Serbia is just ith the refugee visit mosques regularly. They can also housands of refugees a transit point on their way to Western crisis worsen- perform a smaller number of prayers,” have found a new Europe. ing in the region Abbasher says. route to the EU through The refugees were travelling north to and around “I believe that in these hard times peo- Croatia after Hungary Hungary until several days ago when 2,000 refugees ple don’t even think about religion. They closed its borders last Budapest closed the border. Since then, entering Serbia have too many problems as it is, but if week, but the vast ma- they have begun taking an alternative everyW day, many expected the Bajrakli they feel the need to preserve their faith, Tjority of them are not aware of another route via Croatia, which has seen a mosque, the only mosque in the capital our doors will always be open to them.” threat to their dream of finally reaching large influx in recent days. city, would receive thousands of visitors Around 160,000 refugees have Western Europe - landmines left over As a result, Zagreb closed several fleeing Syria and Iraq. passed through Serbia since the start of from the war in Croatia 1991-95. border crossings but some refugees This hasn’t been the case. the crisis and many have spent some Around six kilometres of land along have still been entering Croatia by legal While the Islamic com- time in the capital. The Islamic com- the border is still contaminated with routes while others have sought out il- munity of Serbia mines, with the danger zone cover- legal routes into the country. A girl waiting to cross the border in the village of Berkasovo. Photo by Gregoire Huet has been dis- ing around 300,000 square metres of Several kilometres from the contam- tributing food People who are Croatian territory. The hazardous ar- inated zone, in a village of Berkasovo in and clothing eas have been marked with warning the Serbian municipality of Šid, buses to those refu- on the road, like signs for years, but experts from both keep arriving with refugees who are gees sleeping the refugees now, countries have now started replacing heading for the Croatian border. in Belgrade’s the old ones and putting up additional From this tiny village, they continue parks, repre- are facing difficult markers to prevent possible accidents. onwards to the EU. As they leave the sentatives from Serbia has cleared all the minefields buses, they head straight for the border, the mosque say there has been no great conditions like on its side of the border, but Croatia some of them even going through the increase in visitors even during Friday is still removing unexploded devices corn fields. prayers. fleeing war and from its territory. Croatian deminers The Serbian Mine Action Centre has “Some people came here when it was are expected to finish the job by No- prepared thousands of flyers warning raining. I can’t tell the exact number, don’t have to vember. about the threat from mines, which but there were not many people here. BIRN visited one of the sites that has they have given to volunteers to give They came when it was cold and rainy, visit mosques yet to be cleared which lies along the out to refugees at Serbia’s border cross- for warmth and shelter,” says Fejsal Ab- The Belgrade mosque has not attracted more visitors fleeing Middle East. road connecting the Serbian villages ings. basher, a public relations expert for the regularly. They of Morović and Islamic Society of Serbia. munity of Serbia says it serves around This was certainly the case among a “Ahmed and I will pray once we arrive Jamena, sever- Abbasher says that those who did can also perform 250 meals every day for refugees at Bel- group of refugees camped out at a park in Germany. al kilometres We are making visit stayed for a short time only before grade’s parks. near Belgrade’s bus terminal. The Bajrakli mosque is the sole surviv- from the Ba- leaving the country for EU states. a smaller number In addition, they are continuing to “I don’t know about any mosque,” ing mosque of 273 that existing in Serbia trovci border joint efforts so While some have been surprised collect tinned food, diapers and cloth- Fatih, a 26-year-old Syrian, told BIRN. “If under the Ottoman Empire. It was built crossing with that the mosque has not attracted more of prayers.” ing for refugees and stress they wel- my friends help me find it, I will certainly in 1575 but was converted to a Catholic Croatia. that people who visitors, Abbasher is not and stresses come all donations from anyone will- visit it before we leave for Germany.” church during the Austrian occupation The nar- are potentially that the rules of Islam relieve travellers ing to help. Isak, 33, and Ahmed, 30, are also from of Serbia from 1717 to 1739. row road, sur- and those suffering hardship and dep- While Muslims are relieved of the ob- Syria and, like Fatih, had no idea there The mosque was returned to its original rounded by woods, actually runs along brought to this rivation from the obligation to attend Fejsal Abbasher, ligation to visit mosques during periods was a mosque in the city. purpose after the Ottomans retook Belgrade the border line – on the left is Serbia, mosques regularly. of hardship and travel, some are con- “We didn’t hear anything about it. but was torched on March 18th, 2004 in re- and on the right Croatia. area to cross the “People who are on the road, like the theIslamic Society of cerned that refugees have simply not Nobody told us. We don’t have time taliation for the burning of Serbian Ortho- The road, which has a warning sign refugees now, are facing difficult condi- been informed that there is a mosque in to visit the mosque now because we dox churches in Kosovo during rioting. The every 50 metres on its right side, even- border illegally tions like fleeing war and don’t have to Serbia. the city. will be leaving soon,” Isak said, adding: mosque has since been partially restored. tually leads into Croatia. However, there is no official border checkpoint will be informed there, just barricades intended to deter ORDER DELIVERY TO people from crossing. in time.” YOUR DOOR BIRN was told that some 35 refugees Find your copy of +381 11 4030 303 used the crossing on the morning of [email protected] September 23rd. But whether any more Mario Barjaktarić, Belgrade Insight here: http://www.balkaninsight.com/en/ arrive or not, the deminers said that page/subscribe-to-belgrade-insight they had to put up more warning signs the Croatian Mine to help ensure that no one is injured or RADISSON BLU OLD killed by unexploded devices. Action Centre SUPERMARKET CONCEPT STORE KOLARAC HOTEL VOZAREV RESTAURANT ZAVIČAJ Refugees crossing corn fields on their way to the EU. Photo by Gregoire Huet Address: Višnjićeva 10 Address: Studentski trg 5 Address: Pop Stojanova 16 Address: Gavrila Principa 77 MILL HOTEL, BELGRADE “We are making joint efforts so that Address: Bulevar Vojvode Misica 15 people who are potentially brought The flyers are mostly written in Ara- MONUMENT HOTEL EXCELSIOR HOTEL 88 ROOMS MIXER HOUSE www.radissonblu.com/hotel-belgrade to this area to cross the border ille- bic and Serbian, but some are also in Al- ian aid centre in Berkasovo, where the ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ Address: Čika Ljubina 9 Address: Kneza Miloša 5 Address: Takovska 49 Address: Karađorđeva 46 gally will be informed in time,” Mario banian because they are being handed leaflets are being distributed, before ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” Barjaktarić from the Croatian Mine Ac- out in southern Serbia, where there hurrying on into Croatia. INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF BELGRADE RESTURANT KOVAČ HOTEL MOSKVA HOTEL PRAG HOTEL METROPOL TOURIST ORGANISATION OF SERBIA tion Centre told BIRN. are still unexploded mines and cluster Košutić said however that the dan- Address: Temišvarska 19 modern ethno restaurant Address: Balkanska 1 Address: Kraljice Natalije 27 Address: Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 69 Address: Čika Ljubina 8 Barjaktarić said that in recent days bombs left over from the conflict with gers along the border with Croatia all the minefields have been marked Albanian insurgents in 2001. are under control, and the only haz- THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL HOTEL SQUARE NINE HOTEL HYATT HOTEL LE PETIT PIAFF GYM DR FEELGOOD and more than 130 signs have been in- “We are doing this because we want ards lie along smaller roads which SCHOOL OF BELGRADE Address: Studentski trg 9 Address: Milentija Popovića 5 Restaurant Mali vrabac Address: Kolarčeva 3 stalled to warn people of the danger. people to know they might come are seldom used. The bigger prob- Skadarska 34 Address: Smetanina 12 Address: across the [minefield warning] signs lem, she argued, is in southern Ser- CAFE SNEŽANA HOTEL CROWN PLAZA RESTAURANT BIZU A HAZARDOUS JOURNEY along the way, and they need to know bia. Address: Knez Mihailova 50 Address: Vladimira Popovića 10 INTERGALACTIC DINNER Address: Andre Nikolića 1-3 what the signs are about,” said Slađana “There are hills, and the whole terrain Address: Internacionalnih brigada 22 Tens of thousands of refugees from Košutić from the Mine Action Centre. is mountainous. Besides, there could be HOTEL TOWN HOUSE HOTEL IN Address: Hotel Jugoslavija, Bulevar CAFE CAFFELOUNGE Bulevar Oslobodjenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 Address: Kolarčeva 7 war-torn Middle Eastern countries, However few of the refugees seemed more mines than we now know,” she Address: Maršala Birjuzova 56 Address: Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 56 Mihajla Pupina 85A Address: Vase Pelagića 48 www.restorankovac.com mostly Syria, have passed through Ser- interested in pausing at the humanitar- said. 6 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 25 - Thursday, October 08, 2015 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 25 - Thursday, October 08, 2015 7 BELGRADE BUSINESS

Continued from page 1 ADVERTORIAL Serbia entering new Dutchman sees totalitarian era, director says Serbia as land of Perfect Democracy is suspended, media opportunity Wellness freedom suppressed and the danger of social unrest is real, the well-known Service Serbian theatre director Kokan Mladenović tells BIRN. Whether you came on business or for private reasons, don’t forget that you’re

Saša DRAGOJLO cize those who compromise universal in the fastest-living city in the region – values,” Mladenović said. relaxation is of the utmost importance. he name of Kokan “As soon as you join a party, you lose Mladenović, the fa- the right to criticize, because the public mous theatre director, no longer knows if you are doing it as is a rare sight on the a member of a political option or as an arin Milosavljevicć, marketing front pages of Serbian artist,” he added. manager of the WellnessLand newspapers, usually Mladenović is known as a fierce critic Center and SkyWellness Club Tjammed with tabloid scandals rather of Prime Minister Vučić and his govern- will tell you a little more about than stories about culture. ment. However, he points his critical reasons why those are decidedly Last week he hit the headlines, how- arrows at the entire political establish- Mthe places which offer absolute maximum when ever, after being charged with aiming to ment in Serbia. it comes to spa services, saunas, massage and fit- bring down the state. “Those are the same people from the ness activities in Belgrade. The storm erupted after Zoran time of [Slobodan] Milošević’s regime. Đuričić, head of the Independent Un- When I criticize our political system, ion of Culture and Arts, filed charges I am primarily criticizing our political About autumn refreshments: against Mladenović on September 10th elite, no matter what option they be- For a whole decade in WellnessLand, and more than five years in Sky- for “inciting national and religious ha- long to. For more than 20 years they Wellness, we’re in love with a healthy life. During those years we learnt that tred and intolerance”. have enjoyed all the privileges of doing the essence of a good service shouldn’t be changed, but that occasional This was because he allegedly called politics,” Mladenović said. refreshments are always a good thing. With that in mind, this season we in- for a bloody revolution in an interview “Like a funfair carousel, they just troduce new working hours – for the early birds, we’re open from 6:30 AM, published on the portal Mojnovisad. switch places up and down while we Dutchman Ralph van der Zijden started his small business in Serbia in 2011. Photo by Sanjeev Dasgupta which has garnered great approval from all our members, but also from com in June. stand in the mud and look. These peo- our intermittent clients. Also, because of many guests from abroad, who Although prosecutors on September ple have lost any moral right to lead any he procedure for establishing a “It is relatively easy to register a business from China, at 1,652, followed by Romania spend several continual days or weeks in Belgrade on account of business, 16th rejected the charges, Mladenović changes,” he added. limited company, an LLC, and a as long as you have someone to help you with 444, Bosnia, Macedonia, Bulgaria, Mon- we devised a new kind of monthly fee, as well as a day pass. That way, we still claims the authorities were be- When the regime of late former small business is almost identi- who knows how it works,” Ralph van der tenegro, Russia and Italy. are more available than ever, and our service is still as exclusive as ever. hind t h e whole “tal- strongman Milošević was overthrown cal for both. Zijden notes. Among LLC, foreign owners of shares are The only difference is that “It seems the rules are very unclear, and mostly from China, 2,427, Italy, 2,158, Slove- About a unique concept of WellnessLand Center: Twhen an establishing small business, non- that it depends on who you ask what an- nia, 1,979, Croatia, 1,523, Hungary, 1,025 and Conceptually, WellnessLand is very close to Western clubs with exclu- Serbia is a country residents attach a copy of their passport in- swer you get. That is frustrating if you want Germany, 996. sive membership. Our members appreciate their own privacy, as well as stead of an ID card, and, if the founders are to plan and invest,” he says. Serbia's main advantages are its skilled respecting the privacy of other people. Whether you’re here because of where democracy is foreign legal entities, they attach a certified Nevertheless, having a local partner is labour, modest wage levels, its central posi- exercise, spa zone, pool, body treatment or some combination of the of- extract from the register where the parent not necessary for running the business suc- tion in the region, the size of the market and fered services, alone or in company, time spent in WellnessLand will relax suspended and where company is registered. cessfully, he cautions. the opportunities for further development you and prepare you for your various business and private challenges. Our In addition to the documentation in a for- “I do not see why anyone would need a in various industries. permanent members come mostly by way of reccomendation, and we ob- entless show. only one man is ruling eign language, a Serbian translation certified local partner, it is better to hire people with The main disadvantages are the bureau- viously have more than a good reputation among foreign guests of our city, “The man who filed a by a court interpreter must be submitted. the right knowledge, like an accountant, cratic procedures, slow administration with because they keep coming back every time they return to Belgrade. lawsuit against me is only unconstitutionally." But all the other documentation is identi- who can take care of tax administration,” he accompanying costs, and planning expen- a puppet, a bad actor in a cal to that submitted by domestic citizens adds. ditures, due to frequent changes of taxes About the excellent badly directed play by a talentless di- in October 2000, most people in Serbia when establishing a new company. and other fees. atmosphere in SkyWellness Club: rector,” Mladenović told BIRN. hoped for a better life. That did not hap- For example, to register a LLC, besides BIG CULTURAL DIFFERENCES A frequent issue with bureaucracy is the In SkyWellness Club, we have a luxury of the best view in town. If you Mladenovic is known for sharp so- pen. the registration application, you have to procedure for importing machines or equip- have ever heard those incredible stories about a night life on Belgrade’s riv- cial criticism in his plays, and in his me- Mladenović blames the previous submit the founding act with the signatures Access to the APR and initial registration ment, which Van der Zijden also faced. ers, the early-morning or day exercise with a perfect view on those same Mladenović is known for sharp social criticism in his plays and his media appearances. Photo by Saša Dragojlo dia appearances. governments of Boris Tadić and Vo- of members of the society and agents, certi- of a foreign investor is the easiest part when He says his biggest challenge in doing rivers will render you speechless! SkyWellness Club is young and full of Earlier this year, the Terazije Theatre jislav Koštunica for bringing Vučić back “Zona Zamfirova”, a hit musical mentation of policy through tabloid called for a bloody revolution in the fied by a court, municipality or notary. starting an operation in Serbia, Dragoljub business in Serbia was to import 50 second- positive energy, and a favorite city spot when it comes to best quality exer- in Belgrade cancelled the premiere of to power, referring to his past role as and “Opera ultima” picked up several hype,” Mladenović said. controversial interview. The new owner also has to submit the Rajić, a partner in the Business Support Net- hand bikes from Holland. cise. Sauna, various kinds of body treatments, and services of professional his play “Koštana”, citing “lack of condi- Information Minister under Milošević. awards at national and international “That is a pattern that we can recog- The director claims that those words documents proving the identity of the com- work, BSN, a consultancy, says. “Nobody in customs could tell me which trainers are also available to our guests. tions for the premiere”, which the direc- “Those who took power after Octo- festivals. nize today. Serbia is a country where were not actually in the interview. “The pany founders, a bank certificate on pay- He recalls that in recent research con- rules to follow or how much it would cost to tor said was “political censorship. ber 5th [2000] are essentially responsi- However, his work is not as wide- democracy is suspended and where journalist put the title out of context to ment of the minimum capital requirement ducted among 26 foreign investors, the Ser- import them,” he recalls. About an incredible equipment: “Serbia is living in a new totalitarian- ble for Vučić’s coming to power. We re- ly recognized in Serbia as in other only one man is ruling unconstitution- make it more provocative,” he said. (100 dinars or less than €1), and proof of bian Business Registers Agency was given He was even told that bikes are seen as On both locations, we offer our guests exclusively the equipment made ism. These absurd charges against me… ally expected radical changes and the countries in the region. His presence ally,” he added. However, he does believe some kind of payment of registration fees, which cost less an average score of 4.1 on a 1 to 5 scale. scrap metal, which is bad for the environ- by renowned Italian manufacturer Technogym. We are aware that multi- are a clear sign of which direction the formation of a serious democratic civil in the Serbian media has been re- The director claims that anything revolution is possible in Serbia in future than €50. “The problems arise in subsequent steps, ment. tasking and clever utilization of every single moment are essential to mod- state is going in the battle against free- state,” he said. duced to controversial episodes like that smacks of a dominant opinion because “this is a land of closed factories According to the Serbian Business Reg- when the investor needs to organize the “Even now, after a year, I still get fines -be ern living, and that’s the reason why you can, while excercising, check your dom of opinion,” Mladenović said. “Instead, we got people with their own the one about the criminal charges. has been removed from the sphere of and hungry, angry and desperate people isters Agency, APR, the registration pro- company, find adequate employees, meet cause I am importing goods that are bad for email, talk via Skype, leave your status on social networking services, or The director denies backing any po- private greed, immodesty and abuse of Mladenović believes it is no coinci- public discourse, especially television, who do not believe in any political option. cedure takes no longer than five working certain bureaucratic requirements depend- the environment,” he adds. just watch an episode of your favorite sitcom. Design, functionality and litical option because he believes that democracy. That made possible the re- dence. which has the greatest impact on the “Serbia is a country of dangerous mon- days, provided that the application is duly ing on a type of business and deal with logis- He admits he was also surprised by the high quality of Tecnogym equipment are unmatched. Technogym is our an artist should remain independent turn to power of some of the hideous po- “We must not forget that the current population. olithic thinking, a country where there is completed. tics,” Rajić says. difference in culture, where people value first choice, because we do not compromise when it comes to the quality with the right to criticize everybody litical elements of the 1990s, such as the Prime Minister was the Minister of “I deeply believe the pluralism no other side…. People are full of enor- According to the World Bank Doing busi- The challenge for most investors is the short-term gain over long -term profit. of our services. without exception. current PM and the President [Tomislav Information and Media in the govern- of opinion is something that essen- mous rage that will explode and there ness report, a few more days should be add- tax system, with a number of non-fiscal lev- He quotes a notable Serbian expression: “I was never a member of any politi- Nikolić],” Mladenović said. ment of Slobodan Milošević during the tially makes a democratic society,” will be no-one to channel it,” he said. ed to the procedure, estimating that a new ies that investors are usually not aware of "I'm happy when my neighbour’s cow dies." cal party, nor do I intend to be. A man Mladenović is by far the most award- greatest suppression of press freedom. he said. “Our authorities try to feed the peo- company is established within 12 days on when they arrive in Serbia, he adds. “It means like you’d rather see somebody in the arts must be independent and ed theatre director in the country in “They were the first to start this sort One of the main accusations against ple with statistics – but you cannot eat average, with six procedures in total. The sheer number of regulations can else fail in business than succeed yourself. I retain the moral right to equally criti- 2015. of media manipulation and the imple- Mladenović was that he allegedly statistics,” Mladenović concluded. Thanks to the one-stop shop registra- make the investors cautious, as well as rais- experienced it and it is very weird,” he adds. tion system, when receiving the proof of ing the cost of operations, because they Parents in Serbia are very protective registration of the company, the founder is need to hire legal assistance to help deal towards their children, he notes, allowing also handed the ID number, tax identifica- with the laws and bylaws. them to live with them as long as they wish. tion number, as well as the social insurance An additional difficulty is that E-gov- “In a country like Holland, children are number, without having to visit all these in- ernment is not fully implemented, which brought up much less protected. It is normal f you have been wandering through the Dorćol neighbourhood recently, you have stitutions. means higher costs compared not only to to go and live by yourself when you start probably noticed a series of black-and-white murals that depict well-known people The 2015 Doing Business report ranked countries like Austria or Germany, but also studying, when you're 19 or 20,” he remarks. who have somehow left their mark on city’s history. What they have in common Serbia 66th out of 189 economies in the field compared to Macedonia, where there are He still sees Serbia as a great place for en- is that they are all supporters of Partizan Belgrade sports club, and the murals of starting a business. fewer bureaucratic procedures, Rajić says. trepreneurs, however, partly because there were painted by fan group Grobarski Trash Romantizam. On one of them is Duško Despite improvements in the proce- However, recent foreign investments, as are so few of them, or much of an entrepre- IRadović, a children’s writer, poet, journalist and TV and newspaper editor who was also dures, and the fact that all the forms, in- well as the examples of individual entrepre- neurial culture. was part of Partizan’s management. Radović is well-known for his quotes about the club: structions for registration and documents neurs, show that the Serbian market does “There are opportunities everywhere “Others only support their teams, while we love Partizan,“ he once said. can be easily found, some foreigners could offer opportunities. and hardly any competition,” he says. “Start still use some help to get the process going According to the APR, the largest number small, find the best people, stay honest and

Hidden Belgrade smoothly. of foreign founders of small businesses are a bit naive, and you'll be fine,” he concludes. 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 25 - Thursday, October 08, 2015 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 25 - Thursday, October 08, 2015 9 REGION OUT AND ABOUT

Continued from page 1 Mt. Zlatibor Albanians see red about draws record Tirana’s new bunker number of

hile artists and versy did not stop thousands of people some others from visiting the museum, suggesting have converted a good deal of interest remains in the former bunkers Communist era. domestic into new uses, The government ignited further con- most Albani- troversies when it opened a museum ansW see them as symbols of a shameful in the former building of the dreaded era they would like to forget. Communist-era secret police, the Sig- tourists Bunkers feature in several works of urimi. literature and movies. Two novels by Government posters plastered on A so-called “Šarganska osmica” train is one of the biggest attractions. Photo by peter.poland/Flickr the celebrated writer Ismail Kadare, the external wall referred to the much- Pyramid and the Great Wall, refer to feared building as a “sleeping beauty of hot city nights are almost guaranteed a Zlatibor also has a number of lakes used kilometres long and will connect Tornik to the Communist government’s deci- about to be awakened by a kiss”. Boasting clean air, winter and good night’s sleep. by tourists in the summer. However, the the centre of Zlatibor. sion to build the bunkers as a tool de- The use of that fairytale metaphor Zlatibor is also an ideal location for water is cold in the mornings, hence swim- The mountain also offers numerous hik- signed to keep people busy and, thus, caused some shock. The building, often summer sports and its own lake-side those who want their vacation to include a ming in the lakes is recommended only ing trails that are several kilometres long. obedient. nicknamed the “Gjethi” (“The Leaf”) is resort, it is little wonder this largely combination of hikes through untouched after noon. For those don’t like to swim, but There are two particularly popular trails, Slating what he calls “a bunker men- widely remembered as a torture cham- mountainous areas while making use would rather have a more active vacation, one leading to a monument devoted to an- tality”, artist and blogger Vincent van ber. Some used to refer to it as the place unspoilt Serbian mountain is now of the excellent facilities at the well-ap- Zlatibor offers a wide range of interesting ti-fascist fighters during World War II and Gerven Oei, a Dutchman living in Tira- of “beatings without limits.” pointed resort centre.. However, those field trips. another to the Čigota health complex. na, dubs the new bunker a form of “ar- The government’s posters empha- the destination of choice for local who dislike overly urbanized areas in the A visit to the nearby village of Sirogojno Zlatibor is also a great destination for chitectural aggression” and questions sized the use of the building in the Sec- mountains will probably prefer to head to is a must. Sirogojno is an ethnic village that food lovers. A particular favourite is Zlati- the wisdom of its construction. ond World War use as Gestapo office, holidaymakers. a different destination. bears testament to life in that part of Serbia bor roast lamb, served in almost every “It should be a question whether however. Construction is a fact of life around over the past centuries. The museum vil- restaurant. Other popular products in- a government should be allowed to It has also had made clear that the Mt.Zlatibor and the urban centre is also lage has around 2,000 exhibits that depict clude several types of cheese and kajmak make these types of interventions in museum will focus only on the eaves- Igor JOVANOVIĆ The shortest route to Zlatibor from Bel- often crowded with tourists enjoying its the development of life in western Serbia. (a sort of cheese spread), whose increased the public space outside the knowledge dropping technology used during the grade goes via the Ibarska regional road many cafes, boutiques and amusement Another especially attractive nearby production hasn’t led to a decline in qual- or approval of the local municipality, Communist era. hile Belgrade still at- which, with just two lanes for practically its parks. Social life on the mountain takes site is the Stopića Pećina cave that is ity. Zlatibor’s inhabitants are also proud only meters away from several cultural Many countries in Eastern Europe tracts the most foreign entire length, can pose a real challenge for place around the lake, which is also the around 2,000mlong with a dome some of their variety of rakija (Serbian brandy), monuments, through a seemingly un- feel a certain fascination with their old tourists to Serbia, lo- tourists. centre of Zlatibor’s night life. 50m high. At the very entrance to the cave which can be purchased at affordable pric- known ‘decree’ of the Council of Minis- Communist regimes and have opened cals predominantly Given that crashes are not such a rare Nonetheless, one upside to the rise in is a waterfall flowing from the Ponor River, es at the central farmers’ market. ters,” he wrote in his last blog post. museums focusing on those times. choose to journey to occurrence on the road, breaks during the number of accommodation facilities is which literally plummets into the cave and Those who lean more toward a healthier “If this is how public space is organ- One problem in Albania, however, is Mt.W Zlatibor, a mountain in the west of the the drive are recommended. Those who that the construction has been accompa- vanishes in its depths. Another attraction lifestyle will also be satisfied with the fruit ized – dictated, almost – we are really that there has never been a judicial pro- country. like to enjoy nature and history can take nied by excellent infrastructure building, are the so-called tubs, hollows encircled selection on Mt. Zlatibor. Especially tasty not far removed from forms of politics cess that focused on confronting the So much so that the mountain, which a break in the Ovčar-Kablar Gorge, where ensuring Zlatibor has good water supply by stone walls in which water gathers and are the blueberries, raspberries and black- that recently seem to gain traction all crimes committed in that era. lies 230km west of Belgrade, officially -be as many as ten Serbian Orthodox Church even during the worst draughts. overflows in a cascade. berries advertised by local vendors as vital over the region,” he added. In the meantime, Hoxha’s likeness came the most popular destination for monasteries are located. The area is The region is also very rich in natural Tourists visiting Zlatibor usually also for a good immune system for the moun- Albania started building scores of has reappeared more often during the domestic tourists in 2015, according to the dubbed ‘mini Mt. Athos’, in reference to drinking water, and the Veliki Rzav River take a day to visit the nearby Mt. Tara, the tain’s youngest visitors. military fortifications all over the coun- last two years, especially during the Serbian Statistical Office. the UNESCO site in Greece that has been a is considered the cleanest waterway in site of a unique complex called Drvengrad In short, Zlatibor is a mountain that has try in the 1960s and 1970s with the de- various commemorations of events in The data for January to July this year spiritual centre for the Orthodox Church Serbia. (Wooden Town) built by the famous film something to offer to all types of tourists – clared aim of holding off an attack from the Second World War that the govern- shows that Serbian citizens made close since 1054. Further, Zlatibor is on the route to the director Emir Kusturica. The complex is both those who like to spend their summer either NATO or Warsaw Pact forces. In ment sponsored. to 280,000 overnight stays on Mt. Zlati- Those tourists who prefer to take a rest Montenegrin coast and is just300km wholly dedicated to film and literature, in the mountains and those who wish to reality, neither alliance had any inten- A row erupted after a party was or- bor, the most among all domestic resorts, over a plate of food and some music might from the sea. The mountain is also be- and it is here that Kusturica holds his film ski. It should be noted that the prices are tion of invading the country. ganized on September 16th by the new which also equals a 27 percent increase like to stop about 20km before the gorge in lieved to be at the intersection of sev- festival Kustendorf every winter, which very similar to those in Belgrade, hence a The bunkers are the most visible leg- left-wing mayor of Tirana, Erjon Veliaj, compared to the same period in 2014. the city of Čačak. You can take your pick of eral winds, hence a clean air benefit. The has so far gathered many big names from vacation here is not too hard on the house- acy of those fortifications and attract a in Peza, west of Tirana, celebrating the Zlatibor’s advantage over other resorts numerous taverns that always serve fresh area’s good air quality and outstanding the international movie world, including hold budget. lot of attention from foreigners, if not Second World War Communist-led re- is that it is almost equally attractive in both roast pork or lamb and play Serbian turbo vegetation – its pine forests in particu- Johnny Depp, Jim Jarmusch and Nikita Accommodation in the wood and con- from Albanians. sistance summit, because it included a summer and winter, hence the season on the folk music. lar – are just two reasons why Zlatibor Mikhalkov. crete mountain chalets ranges from €25 to Last November, the government photograph of the old dictator. mountain lasts for as long as 10 months. The Holidaymakers who conquer the is ranked high among health resorts in In wintertime, Zlatibor offers a solid €120 per night. opened a museum in an underground When the Democratic Party cried mountain is almost equally well-equipped 1,000--metre ascent during summertime Serbia. number of ski slopes, of interest primarily Because of all the mountain has to offer, office space on the periphery of Tirana foul, Veliaj distanced himself from the for both summer and winter activities, al- will immediately notice a pleasant change, Over the last few years, many sporting to less experienced skiers. The main ski re- the Ibarska road should not prevent any- called BunkArt. photograph, saying that it was not part though seasoned skiers say they prefer to because the temperature rarely exceeds facilities have been built on the mountain, sort on the mountain is Tornik, located at one from visiting Zlatibor, Serbian tourists’ Some called it “an illegal museum of the ceremony organized by the mu- spend their winter vacation on Mt. Kopaonik 30 degrees Celsius at this altitude. In fact, and the national tourism organisation an altitude of about 1,400 meters. The con- favourite destination in 2015, at least once. for Enver Hoxha”, although the contro- nicipality. Police confront opposition supporters over the new bunker being built in the center of Tirana on September 21st. Photo by Gent Shkullaku/LSA as it has more challenging ski slopes. the temperatures start to decrease rapidly aims to promote the mountain as an im- struction of a panoramic ski lift, touted as For more information on activities and One fly in the ointment is, however, get- around 4 p.m., dropping to around 10 de- portant sports destination to be used by the longest of its kind in the world, started accommodation options on Mt. Zlatibor, ting to Mt. Zlatibor by car. grees at night, hence those who are tired numerous teams for training. in August. Once complete, it will be nine visit www.zlatibor.org.rs

8 – 14.10.2015. DKC - Dvorana Kulturnog centra Beograda

Donnerstag 8.10. – ERÖFFNUNG 21.00 Uhr 20.00 Uhr Victoria - R: Sebastian Schipper, 134 Min. 2015 Phoenix – R: Christian Petzold, 98 Min. Montag 12.10. Freitag 9.10. 19.00 Uhr 19.00 Uhr Who am I - Kein System ist sicher Hin und weg - R: Christian Zübert, 95 Min. R: Baran bo Odar, 106 Min. 4. GoetheFEST 21.00 Uhr 21.00 Uhr Fack ju Göhte! - R: Bora Dağtekin, 113 Min. Wir sind jung, wir sind stark R: Burhan Qurbani, 128 Min. Samstag 10.10. 19.00 Dienstag 13.10. Sećanja i nade Tod den Hippies! Es lebe der Punk! 19.00 Uhr R: Oskar Roehler, 104 Min. Kuzu – The Lamb – R: Kutluğ Ataman, 87 Min. 21.00 Uhr 21.00 Uhr Erinnerungen und Elser - 13 Minuten The Cut – R: Fatih Akin, 138 Min. R: Oliver Hirschbiegel, 114 Min. Mittwoch 14.10. - FINALE Hoffnungen Sonntag 11.10. 20.00 Uhr 19.00 Uhr Als wir träumten Im Labyrinth des Schweigens R: Andreas Dresen, 117 Min. R: Guilio Ricciarelli, 123 Min.

Sprache. Kultur. Deutschland. 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 25 - Thursday, October 08, 2015 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 25 - Thursday, October 08, 2015 11 ARTS HEALTH AND FAMILY

European Festival Opera, Ballet of Roma Culture and and Classical Activism at Mikser House ‘Kneeling to th FRIDAY SEPTEMBER 25 Serbian schools ‘lack effective

While only lasting one Belgrade Philharmonic with Cristian day, this important, free of Arts in brief Mandeal – conductor, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm charge, cultural festival has a dictators is Milica Žugić – violin, Guarnerius, anti-violence policies’ packed programme, includ- Džordža Vašingtona 12, 8pm ing art exhibits, documen- SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 27th tary film shows, roundtable shameful,’ author discussions, and music. The Artlink Trio, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 11am night ends with concerts by three groups, Crne Mambe MONDAY SEPTEMBER 28th from Niš, Gipsy Mafia from says Belgrade String Orchestra Dušan Zrenjanin and Grubb from Skovran, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Zemun. It's all going down Studentski Trg 5, 6pm Luka Petrović – guitar, Belgrade Cultural at Mikser House on Friday, Centre, Trg Republike 5, 8pm September 25th. Stanojevic-Holclajtner Piano Duo, Belgrade Cultural Centre, Trg Republike 5, 9pm Famed photographer WEDNESDAY SEPTEMBER 30th Schröter to exhibit Stefan Milenković and Edin in Belgrade Karamazov, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm Flaklaud Ensemble, Studentski Grad An exhibition of German Cultural Centre, Bulevar Zorana Đinđića photographer Erasmus 179, 8pm Schröter’s work will be on Sanja Klicović – soprano and Jovana Misaljević – piano, Belgrade City Hall, display from September 24th Dragoslava Jovanovića 2, 8pm to October 17th at the Artget MONDAY OCTOBER 5th Gallery. Schröter himself will attend the show’s official Il Belpaese String Quartet, Belgrade opening on September 25th. Cultural Centre, Trg Republike 5, 9pm The Leipzig-based photog- rapher is known for creating Exhibitions spectacular images using tra- ditional chemical processes and Events without the help of computer or laboratory magic. FRIDAY SEPTEMBER 25th

Milenković and Coffee Festival, Ušće Shopping Mall, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 4, from 10am to Karamazov concert 8pm at Kolarac Festival of Roma Culture and Activism, Mikser House, Karađorđeva 46, 12pm Caligraphy Workshop, Museum of Vuk Former child prodigy and and Dositej, Gospodar Jevremova 21, from 10am to 5pm one of the most outstanding Exhibition: Erasmus Schroeter, violin players in the world, photographs, Belgrade Cultural Centre, Stefan Milenković will be Trg Republike 5, 6pm Exhibition: See, Capture, Immortalize teaming up with long-time Light – photographs, Parobrod, Kapetan collaborator and lute player Lekić is having a hard time getting his book into the shops. Photo courtesy of Slaviša Lekić Mišina 6, 7pm Performance: Kristijan Comu – Sounds Edin Karamazov for another of Comics, Students Cultural Centre, Belgrade show. The two will Published weeks ago, it is a collec- [“Talking nonsense is not what Serbs Kralja Milana 50, 8:30pm perform at the Ilija M. Kolarac Slaviša Lekić, the tion on the Prime Minister’s statements do”] contains the funny and contradic- SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 26th Endowment's Main Hall on from 1995 ending with his most recent tory statements of various public fig- September 30th. Tickets are journalist whose ones in 2015. The front page features a ures such as politicians, intellectuals, 4th Belgrade Flower Festival, Manjez Park, from 10am to 7pm caricature of Vučić by Predrag Koraksić sportsmen and actors. available from the Kolarac box Coffee Festival, Ušće Shopping Mall, office and cost between €8 book on the Corax, the prominent cartoonist. “That was our response to the Croa- Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 4, from 10am to Although all the statements in the tian project of Predrag Lucić, Viktor 8pm The main problems are verbal abuse, intimidation and physical violence, UNICEF reports. Photo by Phil Roeder/Flickr and €12. Workshop: The Art of Mosaic, Gallery of Prime Minister book come from Vučić’s own speeches, Ivančić and Boris Dežulović. With that, Frescoes, Cara Uroša 20, 12pm the two biggest book chains in Serbia we patriotically showed that Croats Branislav Pavlović, president of However, teachers say those meas- The local police service has now up yet still did nothing other than shoot Il Belpaese string Conference: Image, Rationalization Parents must help has been barred decided not to distribute it. can’t be better than us, not even in stu- and History, Faculty of Media and Serbia’s education workers’ union ures do little to prevent violence in the launched an investigation. videos of the assault on their phones. quartet to perform in However, Lekić says he only received pidity,” Lekic said. Communications, Terazije 34, 12pm (Sindikat obrazovanja Srbije), says first place and often only serve to move Biljana Lajović, coordinator of the “If the spectators helped stop the October tackle violence from major a definite “no” from Vulkan while the The second work, “Zamlaćivanje” SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 27th that although there are mechanisms problem behaviour to another school. Ministry of Education’s anti-school vio- beating, this case wouldn’t have be- other bookstore, Delfi, offered to order [“Messing around,”] is a collection of for fighting violence in schools, pun- Pavlović also cites deteriorating mor- lence unit says that because the assault come as serious as it did. If they couldn’t Even though they have only only 30 copies for one of their 35 stores, Serbian President Tomislav Nikolić’s New Consciousness Festival, Mikser among Serbian ishments for bullies are too mild and al standards within society as a whole took place off school premises this par- stop it, they could have called for some- bookshops, says House, Karađorđeva 46, 11am been together as a string Lekić said. statements and was published in 2013. Exhibition: The Vorder is Closed schoolchildren, more action is needed to prevent vio- as problematic. ticular case will not be investigated by one else. I really don’t understand what quartet since 2011, all four journalism and In a letter to the media, Vulkan’s man- “That was a collection of a nebulous (group of authors), Museum of African lence. “Reality TV shows and bad role mod- the school. goes through their heads, if they stand members of the Il Belpaese agement said it would not be selling rhetoric, weird attitudes and funny Art, Andre Nikolića 14, 5pm He also stresses that parents’ re- els have the strongest influence on “Still, violence is a big problem for and watch that kind of violence, with- warn leading out any compassion for the victim,” are classically trained free speech in Lekić’s book but declined to comment turnarounds in the current President’s MONDAY SEPTEMBER 28th sponses sometimes exacerbate the children nowadays. This has to be dealt our schools and it is disappointing how musicians who have been further on the issue. beliefs,” Lekić recalled. problem. with because people are making a hero little we are talking about this. Silent Lajović added. BIRN also contacted Delfi bookstore “The books sold out quickly. Of Deli Monday: Belgrade of Light, Grad education experts, “Punishment should be harsh. out of a criminal on television and that masses are the same problem as the Lajović believes that reinforcing performing for many years. Cultural Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, 7pm Serbia face hard and was told that it doesn’t have the course, no one made a fuss about them Teachers cannot control the class if is insane,” he says. violence itself,” she added. moral values on television and limiting The concert will be held on Movie: The Thin Red Line (Terrence book and still doesn’t know if it will in the bookstores,” Lekić recalled. as shocking attack there are troublemakers there. Some- UNICEF studies have shown that in The term ‘silent masses’ refers to the influence of reality TV shows and th Malick), Yugoslav Film Archive, October 5 at the Artget Gal- times. stock it. Working under the other regimes Kosovska 11, 8:30pm times schools punish violent behav- 50 schools that were monitored in Ser- groups of onlookers who watch violent other “decadent” programmes could lery, starting at 9pm. Entrance However, the book has found its way in Serbia was also hard, the journalist on Kruševac teen iour but parents intervene and attack bia, 65 percent of pupils said they had acts in progress but do nothing to help help prevent school violence, but also TUESDAY SEPTEMBER 29th will be free of charge. in two smaller bookstores in Belgrade recalled, especially during the time of the professors or the school instead of been the victim of violence on at least stop it or alert anyone else. In the attack stresses parental guidance is key and and can be purchased online via www. former strongman Slobodan Milošević. Movie: Roger Waters – The Wall, sparks outcry. taking care of their own child,” Pavlović one occasion. The main forms of vio- on the girl in Kruševac, children, mostly that“parents need to get involved in SNOWE Festival Ivana NIKOLIĆ status.co.rs. Soon it will be available for But there are quite a few differences, he Cineplexx, Ušće Shopping Mall, Bulevar told BIRN. lence complained of were verbal abuse teens, watched the victim get beaten their children’s lives”. Mihajla Pupina 4, 8pm brings Swedish street vendors as well. observed. “Pupils have too much freedom. and intimidation, but physical violence cinema to Serbia am absolutely sure that Lekić doesn’t blame bookstore own- “Under Milošević’s dictatorship, a WEDNESDAY SEPTEMBER 30th Teachers want to… be better protected was not far behind. the current regime did ers for avoiding risks. He blames the series of [independent] media outlets Filip AVRAMOVIĆ from the violence which is not possible In the latest shocking case of physi- Prized movies from the 2014 The SNOWE Festival at not directly influence media and journalists more, as they are came into existence like Studio B, B92, Balkanima, Studentski Grad Cultural under current laws. We still don’t have cal violence between pupils, three Opening in Belgrade September 2015 the Yugoslav Film Archive the prohibition of the the ones suffering not only censorship Vreme… but today? What is there apart Centre, Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 179, 8pm he school season in Serbia a working model for dealing with vio- schoolgirls have been accused of beat- sale of this book. But the but self-censorship as well. from Twitter, which is the most inde- Movie: Rebel Without a Cause, Yugoslav began with a shocking vio- lence.” ing a 15-year-old girl unconscious in the on October 20th-21st will Film Archive, Kosovska 11, 8:30pm atmosphere created in “Books about Vučić are not pub- pendent media?” Lekić asked. lent incident among pupils At the moment, schools seeking to central Serbian town of Kruševac. The International Kindergarden feature five movies by famed society“I by Aleksandar Vučić and his lished every day and barred every sec- Nowadays, he argues, journalists – THURSDAY OCTOBER 1st which has launched a pub- punish violent behaviour by pupils are victim was left unconscious in a café Swedish directors. As a part people makes it reasonable for book- ond day. I wouldn’t say it isn’t newswor- many of them concerned with bare ex- lic debate on how to com- limited to informing parents and, in the in the town before an ambulance was , Stara Ciglana, of the programme, all of the shops not to want to take risks,” Lekić, thy,” Lekić argued. istence and living expenses – not only Cirkobalkana Festival Tbat violence in schools. worst cases, suspending or expelling called. Slanački Put 26, 6pm directors will be in attendance the editor-in-chief of the magazine Sta- Before publishing the book on nod at everything the authorities say Exhibition: Milija Belic, New Moment Professors and experts from the Min- children from school. Some bystanders filmed the attack, and visitors will be able to tus, told BIRN. Vučić, Lekić published two other but “kneel with pride”. Gallery, Hilandarska 14, 7pm istry of Education agree that school At the elementary school level pu- which took place earlier this month, on He was talking about his recently books, both comprised of politicians’ “There is no shame in admiring great violence is the result of many factors, pils can only be transferred to another mobile phones. Several can be heard chat to both the directors and FRIDAY OCTOBER 2nd published “Political autobiography of statements. people and their ideas. But there is in but stress, poor parenting and lenient school with parental permission, while laughing and jeering as the teenager producers of these films after Phone: +381 65 450 6430, www.lalelu.rs Aleksandar Vučić,” which he is having The first one, written with two col- crawling before dictators,” he conclud- Wordrrrun Festival, Rex, Jevrejska 16, 1pm punishments for bullies are among the schools are able to expel high school was repeatedly kicked and punched in they have all been screened. th www.facebook.com/LaLeLuBelgrade, @LaLeLu_Belgrade a hard time getting into the shops. leagues, named “Nije srpski lupati ed. 5 Standup Fest, Dom Sindikata, main causes. children in extreme cases. the face and head. Dečanska 14, 8pm 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 25 - Thursday, October 08, 2015 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 25 - Thursday, October 08, 2015 13 WHAT’S ON ON THE SPOT

Foreign CLUBBING officials support AND LIVE MUSIC Belgrade Gay Pride FRIDAY SEPTEMBER 25th • Eyot, Dom Omladine, WEDNESDAY Makedonska 22, 10pm SEPTEMBER 30th everal hundred gay rights support- • Fast Response, Teabreak, • Magla Band, Port by ers marched through the Serbian Fat Kid Loves Cake, Sioux, Community, boat on Sava • Indexi and Friends, Sava capital from the government building Skadarska 40, 10pm River, 11pm Centar, Milentija Popovića 9, Sto parliament on September 20th. As • Bricolage Lab Kick-off • Drugstore Season 8pm TRATTORIA well as around 300 activists, several foreign Party – As Smooth As and Opening, Drugstore, Bulevar • Naš Način, Konoba Akustik, PIZZERIA officials came to show support, including Kopricciosa, Španska Kuća, Despota Stefana 115, 11pm Cara Dušana 13, 11pm Michael Davenport, head of the EU Delega- Braće Krsmanović 2, 10pm • Petnem Label Launch • Aćim i Violina, Kafana tion in Serbia, Michael Kirby, the US ambas- • Kristijan Molnar All Night Party, Depo Magacin, Jazbina, Bulevar Kralja sador to Serbia and Knut Fleckenstein, an MP in the European Parliament. The mayor of Long, 20/44 boat on Sava, Travnička 3, 11pm Aleksandra 89, 11pm Nebojsina 8 Belgrade, Siniša Mali, was among the Serbian 11pm • Smoking Beats vs. • Libertas, Kafana Tajna, 011/3863-999 Officials with Belgrade Mayor (on the right) Photo by Beta officials who attended. • House Night, Industrija Bar, Beatmasters, Grad Cultural Ruzveltova 13, 10pm [email protected] Karađorđeva 23, 10pm Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, • Techno Yes Techno, 2044 www.restoranamici.rs • RnB Night – Pure Cream, 10pm boat on Sava, 11pm Club 94, boat on Sava, 11pm • Forsek, Sloxxx, Orange, Les • Girls Gonna Get Wild, Mr Indian • Time Machine, Freestyler Enfants Terribles, Bulevar Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, • Holy Friday, Mr Stefan • Sunday Beat Deep House boat on Sava, 11pm Vojvode Bojovića 5, 11pm 11pm Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Tech House, Mr Stefan conductor • Friday Beeeat, Hot Mess • Brka and Jogarde, 20/44 • Can’t Stop The Rock, KST, Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Mehta boat on Sava, 11pm boat on Sava, 11pm THURSDAY OCTOBER 1st Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 73, • Holy Friday, Mr Stefan • DJ Mirko and DJ Meex, 10pm MONDAY OCTOBER 5th delights Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Freestyler boat on Sava, 11pm • Nate Hall, Grad Cultural Centre, • Can’t Stop the Rock, KST, • Somebody Call the Doctor, Braće Krsmanović 4, 9pm SATURDAY OCTOBER 3rd • Tri za Groš, Konoba Akustik, Belgrade Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 73, Club 94, boat on Sava, 11pm • 4th Festival of Tribute Bands Cara Dušana 13, 11pm 10pm • Winter Season Opening, – tribute to Azra, Akademija , Freestyler boat • 4th Festival of Tribute • ‘90s Night rominent Indian conductor Zubin Mr Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 28, Nemanjina 28, 10pm on Sava, 11pm Bands – tribute to Nick Mehta was greeted with a series of SATURDAY 4, 11pm • Marina Višković, River boat • Beautiful Monday, Mr. Cave, Akademija 28, five-minute ovations at a packed SEPTEMBER 26th • Closing Weekend by on Sava, 11pm Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, Nemanjina 28, 10pm concert with the Belgrade Phil- DJ Oysha, Markoo and • Neša Acoustic Band, Konoba 11pm P th • Streetriffs Fest Vol. 2, Sioux, harmonic Orchestra on September 20 at • Horkestar, Parobrod, Miloš Starčević, Terassa, Akustik, Cara Dušana 13, 11pm Skadarska 40, 10pm the Ilija M Kolarac Endowment. It was the Kapetan Mišina 6, 7pm Kalemegdan Fortress, 11pm • Charter Band, Kafana Tajna, TUESDAY OCTOBER 6th eighth time that Mehta has conducted the • Marko Žujović and • ‘90s, KST, Bulevar Kralja Ruzveltova 13, 10pm Belgrade Philharmonic, playing Mozart’s , River Aleksandra 73, 10pm • DJ Nikola and DJ Yabba, Katarina Gardijan • Negative Approach, Dom last and Mahler’s first symphonies – ‘Jupi- Freestyler boat on Sava, 11pm boat on Sava, 11pm Omladine, Makedonska 22, ter’ and ‘Titan.’ Among the audience were SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 27th • Dj Gru and DJ Playa, Mr. Stefan • Maja Louis Acoustic Trio, 9pm Serbia’s Culture and Information Minister, Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Tag boat on Sava, 11pm • Libertas, Kafana Tajna, Ivan Tasovac, and well-known Serbian edi- • Nesa Acoustic Band, Konba • Wake Up DJs, Drugstore Play • Tommy Four Seven, Ruzveltova 13, 10pm Matić with Tasovac tor Veran Matić. Zubin Mehta. FREE COPY Akustik, Cara Dušana 13, boat on Sava, 11pm Drugstore, Bulevar Despota • Girls Gonna Get Wild, Mr 10pm Stefana 115, 11pm Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, • Nineties Night, Club 94, FRIDAY OCTOBER 2nd • The Tube Opening Weekend: 11pm Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. boat on Sava, 11pm Traumer, Boža Podunavac, ‘$1,000 Kolarčeva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade • Sunday Beat Deep House • Škrtice, Gun Club, Miloša Kid Kimi, Vuk Smiljanić, The WEDNESDAY OCTOBER 7th Bill’ attracts Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 Tech House, Mr Stefan Pocerca 10, 10pm Tube, Simina 21, 11pm Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm • 4th Festival of Tribute • All Stars Party: Bass • The Soft Moon, Drugstore, Editor in Chief: Gordana Igrić celebrity Bands – tribute to Faith Maze, As Smooth As, Bulevar Despota Stefana 115, 10pm BIRN editorial team: th MONDAY SEPTEMBER 28 No More, Akademija 28, Samo Ljubav, Banda • Girls Gonna Get Wild, Mr. audience Ana Petruševa, Marcus Tanner, Nemanjina 28, 10pm Panda, Kristijan Molnar, Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, [email protected] • Mia Borisavljević, River, • Streetriffs Fest Vol. 2, Sioux, Grad Cultural Centre, Braće 11pm ew movie “Hiljadarka” (“A boat on Sava, 11pm Skadarska 40, 10pm Sales & Marketing: Marija Petrović Krsmanović 4, 10pm Thousand-Dollar Bill”) , Konoba Akustik, th • Tri za Groš • The Tube Opening • DJ Mirko and DJ Meex, THURSDAY OCTOBER 8 premiered at Belgrade’s Phone: +381 11 4030 302 Cara Dušana 13, 11pm Weekend: Dejan Milićević, Freestyler boat on Sava, 11pm Cineplexx Usce Shopping N th [email protected] • ‘90s Night, Freestyler boat John Belk, Speedy, Zwein, • Marina Višković, River boat Centre Cinema on September 17 . The • Somebody Call the Doctor, on Sava, 11pm The Tube, Simina 21, 11pm on Sava, 11pm film, by Serbian director Nenad Đurić, Subscription & Distribution: Club 94, boat on Sava, 11pm • Beautiful Monday, Mr. Stefan • Evident, Subsided, Nemecek, • Neša Acoustic Band, focuses on the life of a young man who Goran Knezevic Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm 20/44 boat on Sava, 11pm Konoba Akustik, Cara follows his family tradition and becomes SUNDAY OCTOBER 4th +381 11 4030 303 • Time Machine, Freestyler Dušana 13, 11pm a miner. Many celebrities attended the [email protected] TUESDAY SEPTEMBER 29th boat on Sava, 11pm • DJ Nikola and DJ Yabba, screening, including actors Nikola Kojo • Pure Cream, Club 94, boat • Superior Band, Još Ovu Noć, Freestyler boat on Sava, 11pm and Branislav Trifunović and tennis Printing: POLITIKA štamparija d.o.o. Trifunović with Zimonjić Nikola Kojo • Milena Ćeranić, River, boat on Sava, 11pm Vojislava Ilića 86, 10pm • Dj Gru and DJ Playa, Mr. Stefan player Nenad Zimonjić. ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade Insight on Sava, 11pm • Retro House Party, Mr • Aćim i Violina, Kafana Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 • Dizel Party, Mr Stefan Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, Jazbina, Bulevar Kralja • Wake Up DJs, Drugstore Play Circulation: 4,000 Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm 11pm Aleksandra 89, 11pm boat on Sava, 11pm

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ALB OTHER SERVICES: 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 25 - Thursday, October 08, 2015 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 25 - Thursday, October 08, 2015 15 GOING OUT SPORT Berliner, PRESSCOMMENT REVIEW craft brews Vujošević’s fall shows for city clubbers how Serbia operates While craft ale pubs aren’t exactly rare The controversial basketball coach in Belgrade, Berliner’s mix of beer and has not been sacked for his sporting club culture is a brew apart. failures - but because he became an enemy of the government. David GALIĆ as such isn’t the ideal place to dance the night away, somehow you still feel hile Berliner is defi- like you are going out to a club since it is nitely a beer pub, in such close vicinity to all of the most it's not like any popular ones. came unpleasant and even awful at other you'll visit in Berliner seems to embrace that notion, times. Vujošević and the president of Belgrade. As any- meaning that the music being played Red Star, Nebojša Čović, conducted Wone who has been to Belgrade at some in the pub is significantly louder than it a veritable war with one another point during the last two years has would be in any other similar venue. And through the media, each accusing the probably noticed, beer culture is defi- even though it's not open all night, it is other of intending to ruin his oppo- nitely a thing now. still open one or two hours later than just nent’s club. There are now numerous pubs about every other pub in the city. During the years of success Vujošević around the city serving exotic beers And, given it is located smack-bang in became a master of regional basketball from all around the world. Serbia has the middle of Savamala, it's also a very and expected respect for this from his even become home to its first real natural place, logistically speaking, for Slobodan GEORGIEV colleagues, the judges, the sponsors microbreweries over the last several clubbers to gather early on in the night and the government. years, with more on the horizon. So and get a few drinks into their systems asketball club Partizan It remained like that until Čović these days, finding a spot that serves a before they head out elsewhere. (PBC) has dismissed its started his collaboration with the ruling tremendous amount of different beers The club is typical for Savamala, very legendary coach, Duško Serbian Progressive Party in 2012, put- in Belgrade is not that hard. minimal and chic. When the weather is Photo: Facebook Vujošević, after a weeks- ting onto the board of directors of Red However, Berliner is definitely differ- nice, the staff literally pin a few tables to long media campaign in Star Andrej Vučić and Predrag Mali, ent from the rest. While most of these the side of the building outside. Consid- fairly empty in the afternoon, but finding there's some excellent food to be had significant cross-section of people who which it became clear the brother and friend respectively of pubs are exactly that, pubs with low ering that it's on a pretty busy street and a seat after 9pm could be a problem. there as well. And as the name would both enjoy fancy beer and going out to thatB no sporting-related reasons lay be- Prime Minister Aleksandar Vučić. music and people hanging out drinking you're most likely to hear music mixing to- Also, because Berliner is so popu- suggest, the biggest draw on the menu clubs. And this is the niche that Berliner hind the decision. It became recognized that Red Star beer and talking, Berliner seems a lot gether from other nearby clubs, it isn't ex- lar and seating is so limited, don't be are the German-style sausages. fills so perfectly. The new presidency of the club led was now a toy of the government and closer to an actual nightclub. It might actly the most comfortable place to sit. But surprised if someone you don't know The kitchen is open at night too, but it It gives you the beer culture and pub by NBA star Nikola Peković, a former Vujošević recognized that fact as a not technically be a nightclub, but it if you must be outside, it's good enough. takes a seat at your table if you are with might be less comfortable trying to eat vibe you want with the option of easily PBC player, announced a new begin- threat to the PBC. sometimes feels like one, and here's The interior is very simple. Basically, a small party. That’s a fairly common when the pub is really crowded, which heading over to your favourite nightclub ning for the club and a need for new He started commenting on politi- why. there's a big bar and tonnes of seating. occurrence in Serbia anyway, but in it almost always is. should you want to party on after downing energy and new people. cal issues in Serbia, openly criticizing Berliner is located right in the heart of But despite the amount of seating avail- Berliner it's pretty much an every night Berliner really gives you the best of a few pints of your favourite organic ale. The man who brought 23 titles to the the Vučić government. In hour-long Savamala, the hippest neighbourhood able, you're almost never guaranteed thing because of the limited seating. both worlds. Though most serious beer club had become a burden. It was said press conferences he would regularly in the city centre. So, even though it is a seat in Berliner, especially later in the Afternoon trips to the bar are also drinkers would rather go somewhere Berliner that because of Vujošević’s public ap- venture into politics to slate the Vučić Duško Vujošević. Photo by Beta only open until 2am on weekends and evening. It is open most of the day and recommended, not least because less loud outside of Savamala, there is a Address: Braće Krsmanović 6-8 pearances the club had been unable to regime. attract sponsors and secure a budget He repeatedly attacked Vučić for came the new leader in the region and ported the club through donations and I was worried because I realized that for the next season. his pro-Red Star approach, saying that the premier team in Serbia. sponsorship contracts that Vujošević some hooligan might attack me on the Even worse, it was said that if while he could understand Vučić sup- Without sporting success, Vujošević had become an “enemy of the state” for street, encouraged by Vujošević’s state- Top Pink Floyd tribute Lord of the Dance presents Vujošević stayed at his post, the club porting Red Star, he should also respect became vulnerable. He still had sup- his criticisms. ments. would go bankrupt. Partizan and help it to survive. port from Partizan supporters but it That fact shows how business rela- I met him and talked to him. We met back in Belgrade Dangerous Games How is it possible that the man who Over last 20-plus years Vujošević became clear that if he did not leave the tions operate today in Serbia where several times after that and he main- made the club famous throughout the had honed some brilliant PR skills and club it faced financial ruin. That was every business wants to be recognized tained his opinion that I was part of o long as there's never going to be a Pink Floyd reunion and watching a wo decades after starting the Lord of the Dance craze that took Irish region and Europe, the coach whose he knew how to send a proper message. the argument for those who wanted to as a friend of the PM because, if not, it a conspiracy against Partizan but he Roger Waters show will probably cost half your pay cheque, there are oth- traditional dancing into the mainstream, Michael Flatley is touring the players regularly continue careers He held an ace up his sleeve while see the back of him, although he was might have problems. also admitted that I was fair in my re- er ways to get your live Pink Floyd fix. One of the best is by going to see Brit world with his biggest production to date, Dangerous Games. As anyone in the NBA, like Peković who was he was able to help his team win the not responsible for the club budget and The author of this short story on ports. Floyd, the world's premier Pink Floyd tribute band. who has been following Flatley's career knows, the dance king is not at Vujošević’s apprentice, became the regional championship and succeed in had worked without taking a salary for Vujošević’s fall met him in 2009 when Now we will see what will happen And it's not just about how perfectly they play the music, they bring the all afraid to push boundaries and take his performances to new levels. club’s enemy? the Euro league. the last two years. he was accused of leading a media but one thing is clear: Vujošević will visualS component of Floyd shows to you as well. Sure, it might never be as grandiose TDangerous Games does just that, moving away from the concepts of the original In last three years, the rivalry be- In last two years he failed, however, The main reason for his departure campaign against Partizan basketball remain the Dirty Harry of Serbian bas- as a Pink Floyd stadium show would be, but it's still a sight to behold. Lord of the Dance shows that earned him his popularity and taking everything up a tween Partizan and Red Star BC be- and Red Star took the stage and be- was simply the fear of those who sup- club. ketball. According to the band, this is going to be their most ambitious tour ever in terms notch. Not only can fans expect all new songs and dances, all originally composed and of lights, special and visual effects. The show takes place on November 7th at the choreographed for the show, they can also expect a visual show of the highest order Sava Centre and tickets are already on sale for between €20 and €35 depending including brilliants lights, detailed costumes and stunning set design. This show will on seating. take place on October 12th at the Sava Centre. Tickets cost between €20 and €30.

Ambient guitarist Scottish folk Nate Hall at KC Grad Belgrade metal musician plays Belgrade Famed Croatian songwriter bands cover legends to perform with band Known for his work with experimental Alasdair s, a Scot born in Swabia, Ger- rock band U.S. Christmas, Nate Hall If you have a euro to spend on a ticket, many, will be performing in the capital Tonči Huljić, who has written hits for Legendary Detroit punk rockers in has been creating interesting guitar a couple more for a beer and a love for on October 13th at KC Grad. Belgrade just about every big star in the region, Dom Omladine sounds capes and ambient music for classic heavy metal, this could be the is just one stop on his first solo tour, will be performing with his own band ages. Inspired by American legends like event for you. There will be two bands during which he will be promoting his Madre Badessa. The concert will begin After playing a truly great show in Novi Springsteen and Dylan, and heavily performing at Danguba on September eponymous album Alasdair s. Special with a comedic documentary about his Sad last year, Detroit punk stalwarts influenced by the morose vibe of Appa- 27th – War Ensemble and Nemesis. War guests at the Belgrade concert are life. He will perform songs that his band Negative Approach are coming to lachia, he has collaborated with many Ensemble (obviously) plays Slayer Wystan Whitman and Ivan Čkonjević. recorded and will also sing some of the Belgrade this year. Opening the show great underground rock artists, most covers, but they also dabble in classic Guitarist s has been writing songs and biggest hits that he wrote for ex-Yugo- will be long-time Belgrade punk outfit recently Scott Kelly of Neurosis. He Sepultura, Iron Maiden and Mega- publishing albums for more than 20 slav pop stars like Magazin and Oliver the Concrete Worms. Tickets cost just will be playing a solo show at KC Grad deth. Nemesis is an all-girl metal band years, first as a member of Appendix nd Dragojević. The concert will be held at €6 at the door. The concert will be held on October 2 and tickets cost only €2 that covers Arch Enemy and a lot Out and later as a solo artist. Tickets st the Sava Centre on October 29th. at Dom Omladine on October 1 . at the door. more. Tickets are available at the door. cost around €5. 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 25 - Thursday, October 08, 2015 ADVERT Map of City Centre

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