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CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST © Lonelyplanetpublications Ing Throughthecanopywillquicklyrenew Yourfaithinthenaturalbeautyofcostarica © Lonely Planet Publications 316 lonelyplanet.com PUNTARENAS TO QUEPOS 317 History and green during this time, while in summer Central Pacific Coast Prior to the tourism boom in Costa Rica, (December to March) little rain falls, leaving the central Pacific coast – particularly the the countryside dry and barren looking. Quepos port area – was historically one of the country’s largest banana-producing regions. Parks & Reserves However, in response to the 1940 banana The central Pacific is home to a number of blight that affected most of Central America, parks and reserves, including the most-visited the United Fruit Company (also known as national park in Costa Rica. Stretching from the rough and ready port city of Puntarenas to the tiny town of Uvita on Chiquita Banana) introduced African palms Hacienda Barú National Wildlife Refuge ( p359 ) the shores of Bahía Drake, the central Pacific coast is home to both wet and dry tropical rain to the area. Native to West Africa, these palms A small reserve that encompasses a range of tropical forests, sun-drenched sandy beaches and a healthy dose of rare wildlife. On shore, national are primarily cultivated for their large, reddish habitats, and is part of a major biological corridor that fruits, which are pressed to produce a variety protects a wide range of species. parks protect endangered animals, such as the squirrel monkey and the scarlet macaw, while of cooking oils. Parque Nacional Carara ( p323 ) Home to no less than off-shore waters are home to migrating whales and pods of dolphins. Although the banana blight finally ended 400 different species of birds, including the rare scarlet in the 1960s, the palm plantations were firmly macaw, which is amazingly a commonly sighted species With so much biodiversity packed into a small geographic area, it’s no wonder the central entrenched and starting to turn a profit. Since in the park. Pacific coast is often thought of as Costa Rica in miniature. Given its close proximity to San palm oil is easily transported in tanker trucks, Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio ( p353 ) The pristine José and the Central Valley, and its well-developed system of paved roads, the region has tra- Quepos was able to close its shipping port beaches, rain forest–clad mountains and dense wildlife ditionally served as a weekend getaway for sun-worshippers, tree-huggers and fishermen. in the 1970s, which freed up resources and never fail to disappoint in Costa Rica’s most touristed allowed the city to invest more heavily in the national park. Sadly, the picture isn’t entirely rosy, especially given the fierce battle between the forces palm-oil industry. In 1995, the plantations Parque Nacional Marino Ballena ( p365 ) This is a of development and conservation that is playing out in the region. Up and down the entire were sold to Palma Tica, which continues to vitally important marine park, which is the country’s pre- operate the plantations today. With the ex- mier destination for both whale- and dolphin-watching. coast, towering residential blocks, gated communities and endless condo developments are ception of commercial fishing and tourism, transforming the coastline into a vast suburb of moneyed North American and European the palm-oil plantations serve as the primary Getting There & Around expats. The sad result is that a region once favored by Tico holidaymakers is now starting source of employment in the Quepos area. The best option for exploring the coast in- to look more and more like a foreign enclave. In more recent years, this stretch of the depth is to have your own form of private Pacific has grown increasingly popular with transportation. With the exception of the These days, it’s frustrating to see rampant construction along the coastline with seemingly the North American package-holiday crowd, unpaved stretch of road between Quepos few plans for sustainable development. However, it’s important to see the bigger picture, as it’s easy to squeeze in a one-week retreat and Dominical, the central Pacific coast has and be back to work on Monday. Unable to namely the stunning nature that first put the central Pacific coast on the map. Although at some of the country’s best roads. resist the draw of paradise, a good number of Major cities and towns along the coast, times it can be hard to look beyond the towering cranes, spotting a troop of monkeys swing- baby boomers nearing retirement have also such as Puntarenas, Jacó, Quepos, Dominical ing through the canopy will quickly renew your faith in the natural beauty of Costa Rica. begun snatching up beachfront property. and Uvita, are serviced by regular buses. As a result, beach towns like Jacó that were Generally speaking, public transportation is once the exclusive enclaves of vacationing frequent and efficient, and is certainly more Tico families are now quickly being colonized affordable than renting a car. HIGHLIGHTS by American-style strip malls, gated com- Both NatureAir (www.natureair.com) and Sansa munities and 4x4 car dealerships. Foreign in- Watching squirrel monkey troops scamper (www.sansa.com) service Quepos, which is the along the beaches at Parque Nacional vestment blessed this region with continuous base town for accessing Manuel Antonio. Manuel Antonio ( p353 ) development and solid infrastructure, though Prices vary according to season and avail- Ticos are starting to wonder if they will soon ability, though you can expect to pay a little Listening to squawking pairs of rare scarlet Parque Nacional feel like tourists in their own backyard. less than US$75 for a flight from San José macaws flying overhead at Parque Nacional Carara Things are indeed changing quickly, and it’s or Liberia. Carara ( p323 ) Playa Hermosa difficult to say which interests will win out in Surfing the breaks at Dominical ( p359 ), the end. A new marina at Quepos will bring in a CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST Parque Nacional Playa Hermosa ( p339 ) and Matapalo ( p358 ) Manuel Antonio Matapalo larger volume of tourists visiting Costa Rica on cruise ships, though it’s difficult to imagine that PUNTARENAS TO Spotting pods of breaching humpback Hacienda Barú National Dominical Wildlife Refuge whales at Parque Nacional Marino Ballena the authenticity of the coastal fishing villages Parque Nacional and palm-oil plantations could ever be lost. QUEPOS ( p365 ) Marino Ballena Ὀ This increasingly populated stretch of Clambering up the canopy platforms at Climate coastline extends from the maritime port Hacienda Barú National Wildlife Refuge West of the Cordillera Central, rains fall of Puntarenas, a historic shipping hub that ( p359 ) heavily during the months between April and has fallen on harder times, to the boom- November. The hillsides are particularly lush ing town of Quepos, which is a gateway to CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST 318 0 30 km CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST 0 20 miles Zona Protectora COAST CENTRAL PACIFIC 85º00'W 144 84º30'W ALAJUELA 84º00'W 1 Río Grande Volcán Turrialba Parque Nacional 10 10º00'N 1 Esparza Volcán Turrialba 10º00'N Chacarita HEREDIA (3328m) Reserva PUNTARENAS A l a j u e l a Atenas 1 17 Barranca Volcán Irazú Río Pacuare Lepanto erry Zona Protectora San Antonio 21 F Boca Barranca San 1 Zona Protectora (3432m) Parque Nacional Jicaral Isla Playa Doña 3 Cerro Atenas Monumento Parque Mata de Mateo Río Tiribi Volcán Irazú San Ana Turu Ba Ri Santa Ana Nacional Nacional Limón Ciudad Colón Playa Lucas Reserva Orotina Tropical Park SAN JOSÉ Pacayas 230 Turrialba Guayabo Barbilla Naranjo Zona Protectora Escazú Biológica Puerto s San Pablo í o B l a Caldera l e de Turrubares El Rodeo Zona Zona Protectora Juan Viñas Catie R n y Isla Guayabo o co c Protectora Cerros de la CARTAGO 160 Ferr Bahía Gigante Playa Tivives r 137 Cerro de Tejar Presa de á Carpintera Paraíso Tuis & Valor T Santiago Reserva Escazú 209 10 Cachi Paquera Reserva Biológica o Zona Indígena Cachí Península Islas Negritos í 239 2 Lago de C a r t a g o R Protectora Quitirrisí de Nicoya Curú Cerros de San Ignacio de Acosta San Gabriel Cachí Refugio Nacional Parque Zona Protectora Zona Protectora de Vida Silvestre Curú Turrubares Río Macho Cuenca Río Tuis Reserva Nacional el a r i a Río Navarro y Indígena Pochote Isla Tortuga Tárcoles R í o C a nd Frailes Tapantí Carara S a n J o s é Zona Río Sombrero Purisil Alto y Bajo Playa Bijagual Protectora Empalme Chirripó Tambor Tambor Golfo de Nicoya 226 ua r e Caraigres P a c 160 Punta Reserva Ruta de 2 Cañon Reserva Reserva Nicolás 34 226 o Cóbano Leona Indígena los Santos I Parque Nacional í Río n Río Macho Wessberg Zapatón R í o t Tapantí-Macizo R Negro P e Playa i i s San Marcos r Montezuma r r a Cerro de la Muerte Mal Herradura de Tarrazú Santa Mariá m País de Dota eric Jacó ana Cabuya Cerro de Playa la Muerte Parque Hermosa P u n t a r e n a s (3491m) Nacional Reserva Reserva Natural Valle de Parrita Chirripó Refugio Nacional de Rainmaker Los Santos Absoluta Cabo Blanco Playa Hermosa San Gerardo Playa de Dota División 9º30'N Parrita Cerro 9º30'N Esterillos 34 Chirripó Playa Palo n j o (3820m) Isla ra Zona Seco a n Damas Protectora ó San Gerardo N R í o D i v i s i de Rivas Quepos Cerro Nara Rivas o í R Manuel Antonio R San Isidro de í El General o Parque Nacional Savegre R Portalón C Manuel Antonio í h o i Matapalo r Refugio Nacional de Centro Turístico P r i Vida Silvestre Portalón Hacienda Barú Cataratas Nauyaca a p P A C I F I C c National Wildlife Platanillo u ó 2 Refuge a r O C E A N Dominical Playa R í Domincalito Escaleras o G en Punta er Dominical 34 Reserva Biológica al Oro Verde Uvita lonelyplanet.com La Merced National Wildlife Refuge Parque Nacional Piñuela Bahía de Marino Ballena Ojochal Coronado Tortuga Isla Abajo Ballena 9º00'N Humedal Nacional 9º00'N 85º00'W 84º30'W 84º00'W Térraba-Sierpe of foreign investment.
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