CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST © Lonelyplanetpublications Ing Throughthecanopywillquicklyrenew Yourfaithinthenaturalbeautyofcostarica

CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST © LonelyPlanetPublications ing throughthecanopywillquicklyrenew yourfaithinthenaturalbeautyofCostaRica. swing- times itcanbehardtolookbeyondthetoweringcranes,spottingatroop ofmonkeys namely thestunningnature thatfirstputthecentralPacific coastonthemap.Althoughat few plansforsustainabledevelopment. toseethebiggerpicture, However, it’simportant to lookmore andmore aforeign like enclave. expats. The sadresult isthataregion oncefavored byTico isnowstarting holidaymakers American andEuropean transforming thecoastlineintoavastsuburbofmoneyedNorth coast, toweringresidential blocks,gated communities andendlesscondodevelopments are thatisplayingoutintheregion.of development andconservation Upanddowntheentire andfishermen. getawayforsun-worshippers, tree-huggers asaweekend ditionally served José andtheCentral Valley, anditswell-developed system ofpaved roads,theregion hastra- Pacific coastisoften inminiature. thoughtofasCostaRica Given itscloseproximity toSan off-shore waters are hometomigratingwhalesandpodsof dolphins. parks protect endangered animals,suchasthesquirrel andthescarletmacaw,while monkey forests, sun-drenched sandybeachesandahealthydoseofrare wildlife. Onshore, national thecentralPacific Drake, the shores ofBahía coastishometobothwetanddrytropicalrain Stretching cityofPuntarenas fromtheroughandready port tothetinytownofUvitaon Central Pacific Coast 316 These alongthecoastlinewithseemingly days,it’sfrustrating toseerampantconstruction Sadly, thepicture isn’tentirely rosy,especiallygiven thefiercebattlebetweenforces With somuchbiodiversity intoasmallgeographicarea, packed it’snowonderthecentral

HIGHLIGHTS

Spottingpodsofbreaching humpback Clamberingupthecanopyplatforms at thebreaks at Surfing pairsofrare Listening scarlet tosquawking Watchingsquirrel troopsscamper monkey ( p359) Hacienda BarúNational Wildlife Refuge Carara macaws flyingoverhead at Manuel Antonio along thebeachesat Playa Hermosa whales at ( p365) (p323) Parque NacionalMarino Ballena 39) and ( p339) (p353) Dominical Parque Nacional Parque Nacional Matapalo ( p359), (p358)

Hermosa Playa Carara Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio Parque Nacional Ὀ Hacienda BarúNational Wildlife Refuge Parque Nacional Marino Ballena Matapalo Dominical However, in responseHowever, tothe1940banana country’s largest banana-producingregions. Quepos portarea –washistoricallyoneof the the centralPacific coast–particularlythe Rica,Prior tothetourismboominCosta lonelyplanet.com November. Thehillsidesare particularly lush heavily duringthe months Apriland between Climate could ever and palm-oilplantations be lost. the authenticityof fishingvillages thecoastal toimaginethat it’sdifficult ships,though cruise larger volumeof Rica on touristsvisitingCosta the end.AnewmarinaatQueposwill bringina which tosay interestsdifficult willwinoutin feel like touristsintheir own backyard. Ticos are towonderiftheywillsoon starting andsolidinfrastructure,development though vestment thisregion blessed withcontinuous munities and4x4cardealerships. Foreign in- by American-stylestripmalls,gated com- Tico familiesare nowquicklybeingcolonized once theexclusive enclaves of vacationing begun snatching up beachfront property. baby boomers nearingretirement have also resist thedrawof agoodnumberof paradise, and bebacktoworkonMonday.Unable to retreat inaone-week as it’seasytosqueeze the NorthAmericanpackage-holiday crowd, Pacific hasgrownincreasingly popularwith source of employment in the Quepos area. astheprimary serve the palm-oilplantations ception of commercialfishing andtourism, operate today.Withtheex- theplantations were soldtoPalma Tica, which continuesto palm-oil industry.In1995,theplantations allowed thecitytoinvest more heavily inthe in the1970s,which freed upresources and itsshipping port Quepos wasabletoclose palm oiliseasilytransported intanker trucks, entrenched toturnaprofit. andstarting Since werein the1960s,palmplantations firmly of cooking oils. fruits, which are pressed toproduceavariety are primarily cultivated fortheirlarge, reddish to thearea. Native palms toWestAfrica,these introducedAfricanpalms Banana) Chiquita the United FruitCompany(alsoknownas America, thataffected mostofblight Central rainsfallWest of theCordilleraCentral, History Things are changing indeed quickly,andit’s As aresult, beach townslike Jacó thatwere In more recent years, thisstretch of the Although the banana blight finallyended thebananablight Although PUNTARENAS TOQUEPOS ntoa park. national mosttouristed failtodisappointinCostaRica’s never beaches, rainforest–clad mountainsanddensewildlife protects awiderange protects of species. that ofamajorbiologicalcorridor habitats, andispart thatencompassesarangeoftropical A smallreserve in the park. macaw, whichisamazinglyacommonlysightedspecies 400 different speciesofbirds,includingtherare scarlet mier destination for both whale- and mier destinationforbothwhale- dolphin-watching. park, whichisthecountry’spre- marine vitally important ing town of Quepos,which isagateway to has fallenonharder times,totheboom- of Puntarenas, a historicshipping hubthat coastline extends fromthe maritimeport This increasingly populated stretch of QUEPOS PUNTARENAS TO Liberia. or fromSanJoséless thanUS$75foraflight youcanexpecttopayalittle ability, though andavail- Prices varyaccordingtoseason townforaccessingManuelbase Antonio. (www.sansa.com) thanrentingaffordable a car. morefrequent andiscertainly and efficient, is speaking,publictransportation Generally and Uvita, byregular buses. are serviced such asPuntarenas, Jacó, Quepos,Dominical some of thecountry’s best roads. and Dominical,thecentralPacific coasthas unpaved stretch of Quepos roadbetween Withtheexceptionoftransportation. the depth istohave yourownformof private The bestoptionforexploringthecoastin- Getting There&Around Ballena Parque NacionalMarino Antonio Parque NacionalManuel Parque NacionalCarara Hacienda BarúNationalWildlifeRefuge national parkin Rica.Costa includingthemost-visitedparks andreserves, The centralPacific ishometoanumberof Parks &Reserves the countrysidedry and barren looking. (December toMarch) littlerainfalls,leaving and green duringthistime,whileinsummer Both Major citiesandtownsalongthecoast, NatureAir service Quepos,which isthe service

(www.natureair.com) ( p323 ) Hometonolessthan ( p365 ) Thisisa ( p353 ) The pristine pristine The ( p353) and ( p359) Sansa 317

CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST COAST PACIFIC CENTRAL 10º00'N

85º00'W

84º30'W

84º00'W CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST 318 0 30 km CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST 0 20 miles

Zona Protectora CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST 144 ALAJUELA 1 Río Grande Volcán Turrialba Parque Nacional 10 1 Esparza Volcán Turrialba 10º00'N Chacarita HEREDIA (3328m) Reserva PUNTARENAS A l a j u e l a Atenas 1 17 Barranca Volcán Irazú Río Pacuare Lepanto erry Zona Protectora San Antonio 21 F Boca Barranca San 1 Zona Protectora (3432m) Parque Nacional Jicaral Isla Playa Doña 3 Cerro Atenas Monumento Parque Mata de Mateo Río Tiribi Volcán Irazú San Ana Turu Ba Ri Santa Ana Nacional Nacional 9º30'N Limón Ciudad Colón Playa Lucas Reserva Orotina Tropical Park SAN JOSÉ Pacayas 230 Turrialba Guayabo Barbilla Naranjo Zona Protectora Escazú Biológica Puerto s San Pablo í o B l a Caldera l e de Turrubares El Rodeo Zona Zona Protectora Juan Viñas Catie R n y Isla Guayabo o co c Protectora Cerros de la CARTAGO 160 Ferr Bahía Gigante Playa Tivives r 137 Cerro de Tejar Presa de á Carpintera Paraíso Tuis & Valor T Santiago Reserva Escazú 209 10 Cachi Paquera Reserva Biológica o Zona Indígena Cachí Península Islas Negritos í 239 2 Lago de C a r t a g o R Protectora Quitirrisí de Nicoya Curú Cerros de San Ignacio de Acosta San Gabriel Cachí Refugio Nacional Parque Zona Protectora Zona Protectora de Vida Silvestre Curú Turrubares Río Macho Cuenca Río Tuis Reserva Nacional el a r i a Río Navarro y Indígena Pochote Isla Tortuga Tárcoles R í o C a nd Frailes Tapantí Carara S a n J o s é Zona Río Sombrero Purisil Alto y Bajo Playa Bijagual Protectora Empalme Chirripó Tambor Tambor Golfo de Nicoya 226 ua r e Caraigres P a c 160 Punta Reserva Ruta de 2 Cañon Reserva Reserva Nicolás 34 226 o Cóbano Leona Indígena los Santos I Parque Nacional í Río n Río Macho Wessberg Zapatón R í o t Tapantí-Macizo R Negro P e Playa i i s San Marcos r Montezuma r r a Cerro de la Muerte Mal Herradura de Tarrazú Santa Mariá m País de Dota eric Jacó ana Cabuya Cerro de Playa la Muerte Parque Hermosa P u n t a r e n a s (3491m) Nacional Reserva Reserva Natural Valle de Parrita Chirripó Refugio Nacional de Rainmaker Los Santos Absoluta Cabo Blanco Playa Hermosa San Gerardo Playa de Dota División Parrita Cerro Esterillos 34 Chirripó Playa Palo n j o (3820m) 9º30'N Isla ra Zona Seco a n Damas Protectora ó San Gerardo N R í o D i v i s i de Rivas Quepos Cerro Nara Rivas o

í R 9º00'N Manuel Antonio R San Isidro de í El General o Parque Nacional Savegre R Portalón C Manuel Antonio í h o i Matapalo r Refugio Nacional de Centro Turístico P r 5 0 ' 43' 84º00'W 84º30'W 85º00'W i Vida Silvestre Portalón Hacienda Barú Cataratas Nauyaca a p P A C I F I C c National Wildlife Platanillo u ó 2 Refuge a r O C E A N Dominical Playa R í Domincalito Escaleras o G en Punta er Dominical 34 Reserva Biológica al Oro Verde

Uvita lonelyplanet.com La Merced National Wildlife Refuge Parque Nacional Piñuela Bahía de Marino Ballena Ojochal Coronado Tortuga Isla Abajo Ballena

Humedal Nacional Térraba-Sierpe

9º00'N of foreign investment. whilethere However, velopment inresponse towave uponwave gion isexperiencingrapidgrowthandde- the NorthAmericancolonyof Jacó, thisre- on theepicenter of ‘gringolandia,’namely Parque NacionalManuel Antonio. Centered lonelyplanet.com to Puerto Limónin1890, the establishment Valleythe railwayleading fromtheCentral Pacific.’ after However, the constructionof transformed Puntarenas intothe‘Pearl of the the steady flowof backintothe city capital on Puntarenas-registered freighters, and coffee cups were carried tothecontinent est coffees and tograceEuropeantables water Rica. portinCosta Someof thefin- was thelargest andmostsignificantopen- Prior tothemid-20thcentury,Puntarenas History and off the boat. of theirtimehere thanittakes toget on few travelers are keen tospendanymore further southinsouthernNicoya,though way toaccessthemore pristinebeaches asaconvenient ferry serve terminal does foreign investors. thecity’s Withthatsaid, to capture theinterest (orthedollars) of of failing increased sadly tourism,though Puntarenas toreap isstruggling thebenefits furthersouth.Inthemeantime, the traffic San José–OrotinaHwy(see p326 ) pulls to Puntarenas willlikely drop,asthenew in a yard. container that you’re bathingand/orsunningyourself boardwalk, it’shardtoescapethefeeling cleaning thebeaches andrenovating the council hasdoneacommendable job in thetown although ing environs.However, reach here fromSanJoséandsurround- pecially sinceittakes justafew hours to popular escapeforlandlocked Ticos, es- to SanJosé, Puntarenas a haslong been to thePacific. As town coastal theclosest Rica’sgatewaygood waytosumupCosta and slowdecay,which ispretty much a tion forpolluted waters, environs seedy Port citiestheworldover have areputa- PUNTARENAS wildlife. remarkable ness beaches andlarge concentrationsof to littlemore thanforested hillsides,wilder- ber Ticos byalongshot, others are home are someplaceswhere foreigners outnum- In theyears tocome,visitornumbers PUNTARENAS TO QUEPOS ••Puntarenas Av 3;perhrUS$1.50; east of town) Puntarenas tourism office tourism Puntarenas TOURIST INFORMATION to theCirrus network. equipped with 24-hour ATMs. west of themarket, exchange moneyandare The major banksalongAvenida 3,tothe MONEY Hospital MonseñorSanabria MEDICAL SERVICES Coonatramar ACCESSINTERNET Information tion (see p537 ). and landmarks are fororienta- evant, used Rica,streetCosta namesare largely irrel- west toeastatitswidestpoint.As inallof but onlyfive avenidas (avenues) running 60 calles(streets) runningnorthtosouth, of SanJosébypaved Thecityhas highway. Pacific town,andisjust110kmwest coastal Puntarenas Rica’smostsignificant isCosta (8km longbutonly100mto600mwide), Situated attheendof peninsula asandy major portonthe Pacific coast. Puntarenasthough didmanage toremain a initiated thecity’sdeclineinimportance, Báncredito. Itcloses for lunch. Opposite thepieron2ndfloorabove Mon-Fri) Orientation of amore direct shippingroute toEurope Banco deSanJosé they survived. detail theadversities theyfacedandhow reporter RonAriasrecounts ingripping ing boat. cued –7200kmawaybyaJapanesefish- and parchingthirsts. They were finally res- sharks, inclementweather,acute hunger Norte. Adriftfor142days,theywouldface windsknownasEltriggered bynortherly age, theirsmallvessel wasfacing30ftwaves last seven days. Justfive daysintothevoy- arenas setoutonatripthatwasmeantto In January1988five fishermenfromPunt- FIVE AGAINSTTHESEA Five Against theSea ( % 2661 9011,1069;cnrCalle31& h

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319 CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST COAST PACIFIC CENTRAL CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST utrns se p322. see Puntarenas, counters) are there to greet passengers. a varietyof day visitstotheeastern end of thisroad,and southern edge of ships make town.Cruise stretchinga pedestrianboulevard alongthe named center. information tiny splashpool,snackbar,giftshop and the site of andhasa theoldtrainstation creatures fromthePacific. Theparksitson raysandother manta ium thatshowcases 12yr US$7/1.50; tions, oldphotos and artifacts. of Puntarenas audiovisual through presenta- 5pm Tue-Sun) ( isthe theCasa Behind culturalevents. ance spaceoffering seasonal with occasionalexhibitsaswellaperform- Calles 3&5; delaCultura LaCasa Sights &Activities 320 % For information on sights aroundFor information onsights You canstrollalongthebeach ortheaptly The 2661 5036,22564139;admissionfree; UTRNST UPS • utrns PUNTARENAS TO QUEPOS ••Puntarenas Puntarenas Marine Park Marine Puntarenas Paseo delosTuristas 1 3 2 h PUNTARENAS . The museum describesthehistory . Themuseum

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r 1 US$35/45, villa withair-conUS$115; Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels Some 3km eastof downtown inCocal atthe greetsbeer) youwhen you enter. cooler of Rica’sfavoritebeer Imperial(Costa theatmosphere.dated paintingstohelpset A nial flourishes,such aswoodenfurniture and nies) are coolandclean,have subtle colo- Cavernous rooms(somewithspaciousbalco- manages toretain alittleOldWorldcharm. lapidated andrickety woodenstructure still Well situated thisdi- nearthebusstations, Turistas btwnCallesCentral&2;s/dfromUS$14/24; about, thishotel isfairlysafe and secure. shouldn’tleavecertainly yourvaluablesstrewn air-con. withoutneeding deeply you Although screened windows,which meansyou’llsleep rooms have functionaloverhead fansand option isanexcellentchoice. Pastel-painted charge budget bythehour,thisno-nonsense s/d fromUS$12/22; wanted visitors.midnight easy knowingthatthere won’tbeanyun- bringing ourownmotherto,soyoucansleep

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( % F 2661 0579;Paseo delos 2661 0784;s/dfrom PUNTARENAS TO QUEPOS ••Puntarenas 0.3 miles 500 m pais 1 3 2 p ) ) US$65/85/100; Calles 17&19;dstandard/deluxe/balcony inclbreakfast from te church. the of restaurants Chinese onAvenida 1eastof alcoholic drinks.You’llalso findacollection snacks andnon- people-watching, andserve 3.Theyare andCalle goodfor Central Calle beach bythePaseo between delosTuristas, turistas are,de losTuristas predictably, filled with alongthePaseoday, atleast.Restaurants rather thandangerous –duringthe raffish ors, drunksandprostitutes, butitseems market. Thisarea isalsoinhabited bysail- andrestaurantsstands nearthePalí super- The cheapest foodisavailable inthesmall Eating dies) where guests congregate. Alamar, there are twopools(oneforkid- up afeast. As family funisthethemeof the youcouldwanttowhip ens witheverything while apartmentshave fullyequippedkitch- floors andtropicalflourishesscattered about, Rooms are allspotless,withattractive tiled prices. apartments atsurprisinglyaffordable offers enormousfamily-styleroomsand upmarket hotel (forPuntarenas atleast) a bitmore spacetostretch yourlegs,this apt US$125/150; de losTuristas &Calle31;d/tr/qstandardUS$75/95/115,d/q amenities andgenerally good vibes. go wrongasallof theroomsfeature modern ing viewsof youreally However, thesea. can’t dollars forthelarger ones,which have sweep- it’sworthspendingafewroom, though extra Pricesvaryaccordingtothe for thenight. arguably thebestplaceincitytoliedown hotelthe mostestablished inPuntarenas, and yachties. five ern villascaneasilyaccommodateof agaggle pool. Ifyou’re traveling inagroup,themod- themed restaurant-bar aswellaluxurious grounds are hometoanattractive maritime- world thanPuntarenas, especiallysincethe Cocalisavastlydifferentplain. However, modation, roomsattheclubare surprisingly are fairlydiscerningwhenitcomestoaccom- the public.Consideringthatwealthyyachters of bothlocalandforeign yachters aswell what historicyacht clubcaters tomembers narrowest portionof thepeninsula, thissome- There’s arowof fairlycheap Alamar yApartotel Hotel Hotel TiogaHotel (tourists). pas

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321 CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST COAST PACIFIC CENTRAL CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST nary mecca for every imaginablecutofnary meccaforevery meat Turistas &Calle5) popular spotis huge onthebeach. dancefloorright Another Calle 17;dishesUS$2-9) riety of tasty andagoodva- goodseafood cals, andserves this ramblingrestaurant ispopularwithlo- have a ticket. admitted onto the boatifyoudon’t already fore ticket fromthewalk-up ticket window make sure thatyouhave your purchased and youmaynotmake iton.Inaddition, The vehicle tends tofillupquickly section ferry, arrive at thedockearlytoget inline. If youare thecar drivingandwillbetaking 33) from the timesaday and PlayaNaranjodepartseveral ferries andpassenger boundforPaqueraCar BOAT Getting There&Away fun here ifyougowiththe mindset. right butyoucandefinitely haveCancún, abitof warehouse-sized dancefloor. Hey –it’snot Moreno’s honored spotforshaking somebootyis bars thatlinePaseo Atime- delosTuristas. do astheTicos doandheadforthecountless for themore traditionalliquidentertainment, delaCultura(see Casa p320 ). Ifyou’re looking happenatLa casional culturaloffering does theoc- around boozing andflirting,though Entertainment intheporttends torevolve Drinking &Entertainment your doctor’s anger. hunksof and enough deadanimaltoarouse great oceanviews has professional service, Turistas btwnCalles19&21;mealsUS$6-10) and dancing. all-night comes tolife onweekends withlive music the placeswinging,open-aircourtyard appetite. your inbathtub-sizedbowls–bring are served courtyard. Portionsare heaped,andsoups jam ontothelarge deckandintotheinterior lunch spot,attractingcountlesslocalswho modest sign,butit’sanincredibly popular ismarked yellowhouse withasmall, bright 322 . (Otherdocksare forprivate boats.) used La Yunta Steakhouse La Casona Restaurant Kaite Negro Kaite Restaurant drivingontothe ferry. Youwillnotbe UTRNST UPS • rudPnaea PUNTARENAS TO QUEPOS ••AroundPuntarenas

(Paseo delosTuristas atCalle13) northwestern dock northwestern

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(cnr Paseo delos Yourculi- This Capitán Capitán be- across thestreet, onthebeach sideof 9:30am, 11am,2:30pm and 3pm. hours, 1:15pmand 2:15pm. Santa Elena,Monteverde San José Quepos Nicoya Liberia Jacó paseo. the ahead of timeonholidays and weekends. and Paseo Book yourticket delosTuristas. blue buildingonthenorthcornerof 2 Calle forSanJosédepartfromthelargeBuses navy- BUS US$3/10, (passenger/car two hours). western dock) and Mal País), US$3/10, (passenger/car two hours). dock) northwestern and pointswest), posted. schedules of thehotels intownalsohave up-to-date ferry office bythedockforanychanges. Many more beautifulas youhead further south. of relief –the Pacific coastlinegets awholelot breathyou shouldtake adeep andheave asigh and thevegetation more lush.Atthispoint, thewaterdistance, gets cleaner,theaircrisper Justastheportcityfadesinto the distance. ested peaksof theCordilleradeTilaran inthe eters thefor- outof tosee townyou’llstart skirts alongthecoastline,andafew kilom- The roadheadingsouthfromPuntarenas AROUND PUNTARENAS head outof townalong Avenida Central. leave fromthemarket hour and aboutevery past PlayaDoñaAnaandMata deLimón) ern ferry terminal is about US$2. bus terminal inPuntarenas tothenorthwest- faredowntown. Thetaxi fromtheSanJosé and gototheferry terminal, 1.5kmfrom markedBuses ‘Ferry’ runupAvenida Central Getting Around hours, 6amand 3:45pm. fected byinclementweather. Checkwiththe atwhim),andcanbeaf- (oreven seasonally Buses forotherdestinationsleaveBuses from To Paquera (fortransfer toMontezuma To PlayaNaranjo(fortransfer toNicoya Buses fortheportof (alsogoing Buses Caldera Schedules are completely variable,change US$1.50,1½hours,5am,11am,2:30pmand4:30pm. , US$2,twohours,4:40am,5:30am,7am,8:30am, US$3,3½hours,5am,11am,2:30pmand 4:30pm. Santa Cruz&Filadelfia US$2.50, 2½ hours, every hourfrom4am US$2.50,2½hours,every to 9pm. also has several dailydeparturesalso hasseveral Ferry Peninsular has several dailydepartureshas several Coonatramar US$2.50,three tofour US$2.75,three tofive ( % lonelyplanet.com

2641 0118;north- ( % 2661 1069; sights heresights (unlessyou’ve wondered ever leaving Mata deLimón.There aren’t any Caldera Puerto boasts whatisreportedly thethird-longest to pushon4kmsouth beachcombers fromPuntarenas, surfers prefer Pacific thisispopularwith coast.Although San Isidro lonelyplanet.com Playa Doña Ana. de Limón islocated about5.5km southof Doña Ana.’) Also,theturnoff forMata ‘Paraderofor asignthat says Turístico isalittlefurthersouth (lookEl Segundo while theentrancetoPlayaDoña Anaand Highway), Sur(South Coastal the Costanera islocated nearthebridgeBoca Barranca on listed above. Ifyou’re driving,thebreak at can easilydropyouoff atany of thespots hourly fromthemarket inPuntarenas, and is rocky in places). be hadhere becareful (though asthebeach therein which case are afew goodbreaks to beach isunremarkable unlessyou’re asurfer, yardlookslike),what acontainer andthe and mostfacilitiesonthe south side. de Limónisdividedbyariver, withthelagoon the lagoontoscrounge morsels. Mata fortasty tide, flocksof feathered creatures descendon mous foritsbirding.Ifyouarrive duringlow ated onamangrove lagoon,andlocallyfa- Limón areas. swimming shelters andchanging areas, andsupervised open 8amto5pm.There are snackbars, picnic US$1.50/0.75 peradult/child andthebeach is fees forthebeach Day-use are season. high Puntarenas, especiallyduringweekends in lar forTico beachcombers ondaytripsfrom like PlayaSanIsidro,theyare more popu- can findsomedecentbreaks here, too,though isolated andunhurriedfeel tothem.Surfers which are relatively andhave undeveloped an beaches knownas break. the localadvicebeforethe water andseek hitting out here, sobesure thatyou’re confidentin that there aren’t much inthewayof services surf here year-round. beadvised However, here are bestatlowtide,anditispossibleto left-hand surfbreak intheworld.Conditions About 8kmsouthof Puntarenas is Buses heading for Caldera Portdepart headingforCaldera Buses The major portonthePacific coastis The nextstopalongthecoastis Just beyondtheriver mouthisapairof , apicturesque littlehamletthatissitu- , thefirst ‘real’ beach onthecentral , which you passsoonafter PUNTARENAS TO QUEPOS ••Turu TropicalPark BaRi & Around Playas DoñaAna& Boca Barranca

El Segundo Mata de Mata , which Playa , rain forests of thesouthernPacific lowlands, ests of Rica’snorthwest andthesodden Costa Straddling the thedryfor-transition between PARQUE NACIONAL CARARA the road is paved. park isabout 9kmbeyondthebridge, andhalf wooden suspensionbridge tothe park.The overThis roadgoes anIndiana Jones–worthy south of Orotinasigned‘Coopebaro,Puriscal.’ you’re driving,lookforaroadtotheeast,just park eitherfromPuntarenas orSan José.If tourists organize private tothe transportation most at 5:30am,noonand4:30pm.However, Orotina (US$0.50,30minutes), which depart B&B. the de Puriscal–onceintown,followsignsfor 10km eastof Orotinaon theroadtoSantiago Pablo deTurrubares islocated approximately dedicated toimproving yourwell-being. San offers anumberof multidaypackages thatare the bodyandclearingmind,AmaTierra restaurant. Ifyou’re interested indetoxing onsite holisticcenter, yogastudioandorganic isits manicured thehighlight gardens,though that are scattered alonglandscaped trailsand in ahandfulof warmandwooden US$127/149; ( San Pablo deTurrubares, namely bed andbreakfast inthenearbytownof the park,there isawonderfullyintimate the exhibitsin reptile house. ing inthetwohedge mazesorchecking out ones, they’llbecontent forhours eitherplay- climbing. Ifyou’re traveling withthelittle opportunities forhorseback ridingandrock thetrees,has youswingingthrough aswell a canopy tour(adult/studentUS$60/55)that price of admission. an aerialcablecar,which isincludedinthe a lomacanopy.Thegardensare by accessed groves, bromeliadgardens,orchid bedsand ture lands,herbariums,cactusfields,bamboo palmforests,trails, you’llpassthrough pas- As youwalkalongimpeccablymanicured of thetopographiczonesnative Rica. toCosta collection of gardensreflecting botanical each adult/studentUS$60/55; .turubari.com; The AROUND TURU BARITROPICALPARK& % Although thereAlthough isnoaccommodationin The park is easily accessed by buses from bybuses The parkiseasilyaccessed If you’re anadrenaline junkie,there isalso 2419 0110;www.amatierra.com; s/dwithbreakfast Turu Ba Ri TropicalPark Turu BaRi pais ) . Accommodationis

( % h 2250 0705;www 9am-5pm) Ama Tierra casetas isa 323

CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST COAST PACIFIC CENTRAL CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST season and occasionally needed in thedry and occasionallyneeded season forest. Anumbrella inthewet isimportant to 28°C/82°F–but it’scoolerwithintherain hot, withaverage temperatures of 25°C/77°F in therainforests further south.It’sfairly most 3000mmannually,which islessthan April are isal- thedriestmonths. Rainfall are stillthere inthewetmonths. March and theanimals the easiesttimetogo,though from DecembertoAprilis The dryseason west of SanJoséviatheOrotinahighway. east of Puntarenas byroadorabout 90km the 5242-hectare parkisonly50kmsouth- Situated at themouthof theRíoTárcoles, Orientation home! at waterways –besttoleave yourswimtrunks Rica’slargestwell asCosta crocodilesinthe avian speciesflittingaroundthecanopy,as And of there course, are more than400other aresightings atCarara. virtuallyguaranteed proposition inmostof thecountry,macaw ofa glimpse thistropicalwonderisarare namely thescarletmacaw.Whilecatching Rica’smostcharismaticCosta birdspecies, where wildlife finds sanctuary. it isoneof thefew areas inthetransitionzone of cultivationandlivestock,rounded byasea national parkcannotbeunderstated –sur- of wildlife tomatch. Thesignificanceof this ating aheterogeneity of withablend habitats figs, andcactiwithdeciduouskapoktrees, cre- the two. Acaciasintermingle withstrangler this 324 Carara isalsothefamedhometooneofCarara had hissevered andfinallyhadhisbodyburnedtoashes. head displayedonapike, The End. guilty chiefhadhiseyesandtonguecutout,wasshotwithacrossbow,beheadedanaxe, charges, thenwassentenced Two,apublicexecution todeath.InAct wasstaged,whereby the werehis numeroustransgressions expounded.The againstGodandking chiefresponded tothe One,theshackledchiefsatthroughatrialatwhichto starinanimperialmoralityplay.InAct Garabito, thereal Garabitoescapedwithhiswife. who allowedhimselftobecaptured. Whilethecampcelebrated catchingwhotheythoughtwas asahostage.Biriteka, Garabitocountered byhavingoneofhisfollowersdress upasthechieftain The wilychieftainusedtheforest toeludecapture, buttheSpanishmanagedtoseize hiswife, literally. In1560,theGuatemalan highcommanddispatchedamilitaryforcetoarrest Garabito. de Nicoya totheCentral Valley, heledafiercestruggleagainsttheSpanish. indigenous hero,alocal The area encompassedbyParque NacionalCarara (see p323 ) wasoncehometoalegendary GARABITO national park UTRNST UPS • aqeNcoa aaa PUNTARENAS TO QUEPOS ••Parque NacionalCarara Garabito’s ploy,however, wastheexception.The more commonfate ofcaptured nativeA favorite oftheSpanishtoweaken tactic resistance wastodecapitate triballeadership– isabiologicalmeltingpotof cacique (chief) namedGarabito. Commandingavastarea fromtheGolfo (chief) advised thatdriversadvised leave theircars inthe therealthough maybeguardsonduty,itis trailheads are routinelybroken into,and crease inpettytheft.Vehicles parked atthe coast hasunfortunately resulted inanin- alongthePacificIncreased touristtraffic the park opens. chance of spottingwildlife isat7amwhen lent. Accordingtotheparkrangers, thebest months. Make sure you have repel- insect small villages in the Central Valley.small villages inthe Central For remaining are Huetar confinedtoseveral wasleftbehind.Today,the fewevidence is knownaboutthis group,aslittlecultural language).Huetar Unfortunately, notmuch actuallymeans‘crocodile’inthe(Carara an indigenous groupknownasthe Huetar sites were located inanarea inhabited by Rica,thesethe Europeans’arrivalinCosta in Mexico orGuatemala. Atthetimeof ing compared see toanythingyoumight they’rethe park,though tinyand unexcit- ous indigenous to visitthearchaeological remains of vari- With thehelpof ahired guide,it’spossible Sights Ecológico LosCocodrilos (see opposite ). Alternatively, parkbesidetheRestaurante areas muggings reported here occasionally. valuables group anddon’tcarryunnecessary or 1kmsouth.Also,besure totravel ina Surfor2kmnorthalong theCostanera ranger andwalk station lot attheCarara Dangers &Annoyances burial burial sites located within lonelyplanet.com caciques was as crossing theRíoTárcolesbridge, alsoknown José, pullover totheleftimmediately after boxed text Garabito, opposite . more onthearea’s indigenous history,see Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels most travelers aren’t too keen onstumbling scurries alongthe forest floor. And,although populations of aweasel-like animalthat tayra, is alsohometoone of Rica’s largest Costa monkey, slothandagouti. Thenationalpark brocket, collared white-tailed deer, peccary, mammalspecies,includingredto several jacamar(just toname rufous-tailed a few!). manikinsandheaded tanager, long-tailed woodpecker, becard,gray- rose-throated parakeet, blue-headedparrot,golden-naped row, five kindsof trogons, crimson-fronted sighted speciesincludeorange-billed spar- of anexperiencedguide. Somecommonly species willbegreatly enhancedwiththehelp yourchances though ofreserve, spottingrarer 400different speciesofOver birdsinhabitthe offerswetlands, Carara somesuperbbirding. tuated bypatches of mature dense, forest and pairs are located. which keepsstation, onwhere tabs nesting them, itmayhelptoinquire attheranger’s blue sky.Ifyou’re having problems spotting of soaringbirdsappears these againstthe the canopy,usuallymomentsbefore apair Their distinctive loudlythrough callechoes that iscommontoParque NacionalCarara. liantly patterned scarlet macaw,arare bird especiallyinJuneorJuly,isthebril- see, The mostexciting bird formanyvisitors to WILDLIFE-WATCHING Activities animals. the people, we’re askingyounicely–don’tfeed as they’re hand-fed day.Please virtuallyevery Tárcoles. Andof thecrocsdon’tmind course, a numberof wildlife tours thatdepartfrom erated here astheyfeature prominentlyin for theirleather. thecrocsare However, tol- Ricaasthey’ve huntedCosta vigorously been Binoculars helpa season. great deal. best timeforviewingislowtideduringthedry they’rediles. Although visibleyear-round, the chance asmany30baskingcroco- of seeing below thebridge, you’llhave afairlygood Dominated by open secondary forestDominated byopensecondary punc- Birds aside, the trails at Carara areBirds aside,thetrailsatCarara home Crocodiles thislarge are generally rare in If you’re drivingfromPuntarenas orSan Crocodile Bridge Crocodile Bridge . If you scan the sandbanks . Ifyouscanthesandbanks PUNTARENAS TO QUEPOS ••Parque NacionalCarara north or southinfrontof theRestaurante the entrance. headed Youcanalso catch buses Puntarenasbetween andJacó can leave youat There butanybus are toCarara, nobuses Getting There& Away here ina guarded lot. car atthetrailhead,there issecure parking aboutleaving your to 8pm.Ifyou’re nervous check out thecrocodiles.Itisopenfrom6am is extremely popularwithtravelers stoppingto Its restaurant hasmealsforUS$4toUS$6,and getting totheparkbefore arrive. thetourbuses it’sacheapthough andconvenient for base andeat.Roomsareplace tostay unexciting, the RíoTárcolesbridge, thisisthenearest 9009; dfromUS$24) and citiessuch as Jacó ( p328 ). come ondaytripsfromneighboring towns inthepark.Asto stay aresult, mostpeople isnotallowed,andthere’sCamping nowhere Sleeping &Eating is characteristic of mostof the park. primaryforest,Both trailspassthrough which ond, 1.2km longandcanbecombinedwiththesec- two looptrails.Thefirst, two-hour hike. About 1kmfurthersouthare for US$15perperson (twominimum)fora and ashort nature trail.Guidescanbehired the park.There are bathrooms,picnictables where youcanget informationandenter rangerstation Carara to turnback to exit. youwillhaveoccasional crocodile,though good chance of spottingmammalsandthe you continuepastthelagoon,you’llhave a tions of heron,smoothbill andkingfisher. If MeaLaguna wetlands. About 4kmfromtheentranceis est andpatches of mature dense, forest and for- open,secondary through and passes This trailpenetratesintothereserve deep ing tothe on theleft-handsideisalocked gate lead- Some 600msouthof the CrocodileBridge HIKING left). (see atthe nearbyCrocodileBridgesafe distance monstrous specimenscanbeviewedfroma upon anAmericancrocodile,sometruly Restaurante Ecológico Los Cocodrilos LosCocodrilos Ecológico Restaurante Another 2kmsouthof thetrailheadis Sendero QuebradaBonita Sendero Sendero LagunaMeándrica Sendero ń drica, which haslarge popula- Located onthenorthsideof

(admission US$8; Sendero LasAraceas Sendero (another1.5km). h

7am-4pm) ( % trail. 325 2428

, is

, CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST COAST PACIFIC CENTRAL CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST ocean. As you’dimagine, thistinyTico town ofalong aseries dirtroadsthatparallelthe little more thanafew rowsof strung houses The small,unassuming townof Tárcoles is marked. clearly andis ontheCostanera isright to Carara bus ride. Ifyou’re driving,theentrance ifyou arefull, sogomidweek relying ona areproblematic onweekends, whenbuses Ecológico LosCocodrilos.Thismay beabit 326 TÁRCOLES &AROUND city mirrorsreality just alittletoooften. to wonderwhethertheclichéofasleepylittletownbeingturnedintobooming international fundamental concerns. Withthatsaid,there are afairshare aboutthatare ofskeptics beginning hard todeviseazoningplanthataddressesseveral allofthese occasionsthatitisworking years behindtheintended development boom. infrastructureHowever, interms onethingisforcertain: ofwater, andsewageisstill electricity businesspeople orfarmersandsmall-businessowners,youwillgetdrastically different answers. isOrotinareadyCosta Rica: forchange? Dependingonwhoyouask,beitaspiringrealtors and the 1.5%transfer isboughtandsold. taxthatmustbepaidevery timeproperty muchofthismoneywastheresultcanton collected awhoppingUS$134,800in2007.Infact, of taxrevenuesyears back,annualproperty inOrotinawere nomore thanUS$30,000,thoughthe in the are unfurlingplanstocreate vastofficeparksandcommercialcenters. thatlargesnatched upforalotlessthanthisamidreports Korean, ChineseandIsraelidevelopers rate asofearly2008waswellover course,thelandisbeingsoldoffinbulkand US$500.Of the numbers. Ten yearsago,asquare meter oflandinOrotinacostUS$60,thoughthegoing and Guanacaste. linkbetweenthecapitalofSanJosé inthetransport to thecoastwillbefinalspoke the Interamerican Hwy,whichgrantseasyaccesstotheNicoyapeninsula,superhighway coast, suchasJacó,DominicalandQuepos. And,consideringthat Orotina isalready to linked currently twohours’drive sanstraffic). finished in2011(orpossiblybefore), Orotinawillbeamere 45-minute drive fromthecapital(it’s Whenthemuch-anticipated roadisnew superhighwaybetweenSanJoséandtheCaldera Port. tell youthattheoddsare inyourfavor. San JosétothecentralPacific aprofessional coast,itdoesn’ttake gambleroramathwhizto town ofOrotina. course,ifatownliesneartheterminus ofaproposedsuperhighwaylinking Of it’sagoodbetthatitmightbetherelativelyis apopularoneinCostaRica, unknowncoastal slowly beingtransformedbywaves uponwaves offoreign investment. more thanbeachvillagesadecadeago,thoughtodaythey’re international destinationsthatare city issomethingofaclichéhere inCostaRica. JacóandTamarindo Indeed,placeslike were little sides canagree thatthestoryofasleepylittletownbeingturnedintoboominginternational Regardless ofwhichsidethedevelopment-conservationdebate yougravitate toward,both SUPERHIGHWAY TOTHECOAST UTRNST UPS • ácls&Aon PUNTARENAS TO QUEPOS ••Tárcoles&Around Fortunately, themunicipalityinOrotinaisawareFortunately, ofthesehurdles,andhasannouncedon sooften course,allofthisbringsabouttheonesimplequestionthatfailstogetasked inOf Even taxofficialsinOrotinaare battingtheireyesinconfusion.Accordingtofigures printed And, ifyou’re stillnotconvincedthatchangeisonthehorizon,allyouneedtodolookat The townwillalsoemerge southalongthe asthemajorgateway todestinationsfurther As government ofearly2008,theCostaRican a waswellunderwayinitsplanstoconstruct Although thequestionregarding where great and whenthenext destinationwillspringup Tico Times newspaper, property taxrevenuesnewspaper, property have beensoaring throughtheroof. Afew a dip. a the water iscrocodile free before you take site localadvice toensure predators. Seek andpersonal viewofup-close exqui- these while aspiringcrocodile hunters canget an mote swimmingholesandamplewildlife, can penetrate virgin forest of insearch re- its largest crocodiles.Here, intrepid hikers waterfall thecountry’stallest and in seeing superlative, especiallyif you’re interested surrounding area isperfect forfansof the isn’t exactlyahuge the touristdraw, though lonelyplanet.com 0346; admissionUS$15; price alsoincludesaccesstoaprivate botani- lars here to enter the waterfall, the admission itcostsafewBijagual. Although more dol- Lauri and Howard will delight inexplaining andHowardwilldelight Lauri go right attheT-junctiongo right to the village. anddriveto Tárcoles,turnright for1km,then totheleft.Toget turnoff the Hotel Villa Lapas (west)and totheright is theTárcolesturnoff About 2kmsouthof ranger station theCarara Orientation Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels called Sonidos del Mar ( p336 ). and are theowners of guesthouse adelightful andHowardlivepowerful brew. inJacó, Lauri knowhowtomakeess, andtheycertainly a the intricaciesof thecoffee-roasting proc- brand name small batches of Tarrazu coffee underthe American–South Africancouplewho roast andHoward,acharming hitoLauri to say stop bythesmallkiosknearparking lot area. the also arrange horse ridingandtours through small restaurant onthegrounds,andyoucan Therecascading downthesideof acliff. isa offers great of vistas Manatial deAgua Viva cal gardenthatisimpeccablymanicured, and road tothe70-hectare access thetrailsbyheading2kmfurtherup trance toManatial deAgua Viva,youcanalso tell youthatheoperatesmight theonlyen- to the park. and Bijagualcandropyouoff attheentrance Orotina between at thebottom.Localbuses off. Acampingarea are andouthouse located ming holeswhere youcantake adipandcool of aseries naturalswim- continues through of year. Atthebottomof thevalley,river serene rain-forest isbeautifulanytime setting whenthey’re the rainy season fuller,though let macaw.Thefallsare more dramaticinthe poison-dart frogaswelltheoccasionalscar- keep aneyeoutforthebeautiful,butdeadly, and viewpointswhere sure youcanrest. to Be therethe valley,though are plentyof benches From here, 3kmclimbdowninto it’sasteep inthecountry. and claimstobethehighest h Viva deAgua Manantial leads totheprimaryentrance A 5kmdirtroadpastHotel VillaLapas Sights &Activities Before leavingBefore Jardín PuraVida,besure to themanattopofAlthough thewaterfall 8am-3pm) , which waterfall isa200m-high Costa Rica CoffeeRoastingCompany Costa Rica h ( % 8am-5pm) Jardín PuraVida 8831 2980;admissionUS$10; PUNTARENAS TO QUEPOS ••Tárcoles&Around inthetownof (

% Catarata Catarata 2637 . out theAustralianaccent.Both massive beasts–it’s Villa Lapas, thenit’s possibletoarrange a Villa Lapas, is clearlymarked. If you’re atHotel staying and ontheCostanera to thetownisright the entrance. Ifyou’re driving,theentrance Puntarenasbetween andJacó canleave you at There are toTárcoles,butanybus nobuses Getting There&Away if youbook in advance. website asdiscounted packages are available of shade-grown coffee, thencheck outthe ity pool.Ifthiskindof luxuryisyourcup tours andtheobligatorysoakininfin- guidedhikes,tween birding trips,canopy guests canunwindinrelative comfortinbe- an attractive Spanish colonial–stylelodge, With amodestnumberof in roomshoused withanumbrellain afruitycocktail ontop. up anyone whowantstheirecofun served this all-inclusive resort isaclassyretreat for rain forest andexpansive tropicalgardens, bothof comprised secondary private reserve all-inclusive fromUS$200; (p333). Jacó good varietyof hotels andhostels innearby atthisall-inclusiveto stay resort, there isa if youdon’thave thecash(orinterest) However, ited tothepricey Hotel VillaLapas. Accommodation intheTárcolesarea islim- Sleeping &Eating hours. two Tours usuallycostUS$25perperson for if you’ve already toTortuguero( been p458 ). report tours thatthese maynotbeworthit tour guides.Furthermore, travelers several watch thecrocodilesbeinghand-fed bythe nitely tobehold, it’sfrustratingto aspectacle you upat your hotel. from townoryoucanarrange forthemtopick .com) Crocodile Safari ( out know it’sgoingtobegoodwhentheguidegets and somehair-raising croctricks.Andyou will take yououtintheriver forcrocspotting of theRíoTárcoles.Bilingualguidesinboats check outacrocodiletouronthemudflats If youwanttoget theadrenaline pumping, Tours % Hotel Villa Lapas Villa Hotel Unfortunately, thetours although are defi- of theboatand 2637 0426;[email protected]) have inTárcoles.Thetours offices leave (

% (

2637 0338;www.junglecrocodilesafari % into pas 2221 5191;www.villalapas.com; Crocodile Hunter the water with these thewater with these ) Located ona Crocodile Man and Jungle with- 327

CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST COAST PACIFIC CENTRAL CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST rina andcondoproject thathascompletely epitome of unchecked luxury andhedonism, development. residential center, resort hotel and multimillion-dollar folds ontoalush upscaleshopping golfcourse, project isa250-berth yacht marinathatun- the rich andpowerful.Thecenterpiece of the Rica’smostexclusiveCosta destinationfor bay intotransformed thisonce-secluded pais ( much time here. American investors are keen on spending people asidefromlocalTicos andrich North look like onegiantconstructionsite, andfew Golf Resort.Today,thebeach to isstarting &namely theLosSueñosMarriott Beach the mostexpensive hotels inthecountry, condominium complexesseveral andoneof sued, andsoonPlayaHerradura hadamarina, things ‘discovered,’ en- rapiddevelopment as thestage forthemovie whenitwasused thrown intothespotlight In thelate thebeach 1990s,however, was thatwaspopularmainlywith sand campers. rural, palm-sheltered beach of grayish-black Until themid-1990s, Playa Herradura wasa reservation. advance pick-up fromeitherSanJoséorJacó withan 328 PAA HERRADURA PLAYA % The The entire Spanishcolonialcomplex isthe you’ve ever seen. the ocean.Forafew dollars,youwillberewarded withwhatmaybethebestPacific sunset theatre, whichisbuiltaccordingtoGrecian intothehillsidefacing specificationsandiscarved trail leadingtothebeach. room. There isalsoaFrench-influenced restaurant, aninvitinginfinitypoolandaprivate 1km andantiques,butnothingisnearlyasmagnificenttheviewsyou’llhave fromyourwith art that gives theappearanceoftotalisolation.The interiors oftheroomsare individuallydecorated Caletas issolelycomprisedof35units,eachsheltered inatropicalgardenanddensefoliage as variedtropicalVictorian, Hellenistic andFrench mostluxuryhotels, colonial.Unlike Villa thehotelwhat makes trulyuniqueisitsfusionofarchitectural styles,incorporatingelements you’llberewardedentering withpanoramicviewsofthePacific theproperty, coastline. But, pentine driveway andVictorian adornedwithcacti lanterns. The itasupon drive willbeworth you’llunderstandwhy. Group’–fromthemomentyouenterRica theproperty is oneofonlyeighthotels belonging inallofCostaRica tothe‘SmallDistinctive Hotels ofCosta Costanera, the Located onthetinyheadlandofPunta Leona abouthalfwaybetweenTárcolesandJacóonthe BIG SPLURGE: HOTEL VILLACALETAS 2630 9000; www.lossuenosresort.com; r from US$250; 2630 9000;www.lossuenosresort.com; UTRNST UPS • ly erdr PUNTARENAS TO QUEPOS ••PlayaHerradura Even ifyou’re stoppingbytohave notstayingatthehotel, adrinkattheamphi- it’sworth Since it’sperchedhighonadramatichillside,you’llfirsthave tonavigate a1km-longser- Los Sueños Marriott Beach&GolfResort Los SueñosMarriott ) isaUS$40millionhotel, ma- Hotel Villa Caletas 1492 . As withall

( % 2637 0505;www.hotelvillacaletas.com; rUS$165-425;

here, apaved roadleads3kmwesttoPlaya Sur, 3.5kmnorthof theturnofftoJacó. From of Costa Rican authenticity. lacksanyamount inDubai–itcertainly night herestaying issomethingalongthelinesof a theexperienceof aims.Withthatsaid, mental ture where economicinterests crush environ- LosSueñosasanexampleofquick touse afu- are manyconcernedconservationists though told, there isaburgeoning drugandprosti- to spread thewordtoothers. Again, truthbe you tosteer clear of Jacó, andmake an effort and marginalizedtalists Ticos whowouldurge tourists,concernedenvironmen- dissatisfied constructed. being apartmentsandluxuryhotels israpidly rise andaskyline ofcosmopolitan, future high- ing isexcellent,therestaurants andbars are cities.Truthbetold,thesurf- developing tion, andoneof thecountry’smostrapidly Jacó astheultimate centralPacific destina- expats andinternational developers whobill surfing contingent, resident NorthAmerican town of Jacó. Inonecamp, youhave theloyal range of opinionsandemotionsasthebeach Few Ricagenerate places inCosta asbroada JACÓ Herradura to Jacó. (US$0.75, 20minutes) connectingPlaya Herradura. There are frequent localbuses However, thereHowever, isalsoanothercampof The Herradura isontheCostanera turnoff lonelyplanet.com pas ) Jacó initsfairshare issteeped of controversy. anddevelopment, conservation ance between homes. their and thefear thatTicos will be pricedoutof tution problem, questionsof sustainability lonelyplanet.com the future of Jacó lies.Optimists pointout ently soldthedoor matbeneath their feet. some begantowonder iftheyhadinadvert- the initialflashof cash tofade, andglitzstarted paved roadsandfast-food restaurants, butas covetedbrought Western institutions like expats. Ticos were happythatdevelopment Jacó becametheexclusive enclave of moneyed hillsides were andalmostovernight leveled were subdivided,beachfronts were cleared, argue city)inallof Rica. Costa Plotsof land town(somewouldmost rapidlydeveloping town. beach Rican began tocolonizethisoncetinyCosta Boomers ofing Baby insearch cheap property things changed dramaticallyassoonretir- looking foralittlefunandsun.However, Valleymained thedominionof Central Ticos Jacó though Ricaenmasse, visiting Costa re- glers fromNorthAmericaandEuropestarted a bitinthelate 1990swhensurfers andan- remained pretty low-key. Thingspicked up ing Jacó, forthemostparttourism though onpackage toursCanadians started flood- only ashortbusrideawayfrom San José. thataplacethismagicalwas hard tobelieve fishing andarelaxed, beachside itwas setting, water, year-round consistent surf,world-class Pacificdeveloped of paradise Jacó. Withwarm the citycenter andwhiskthemawaytotheun- wouldpickupbeach-seekersshuttle buses in recalljosefinos fondlythedayswhenweekend locked Valley. denizensof theCentral Many as itisthequickest ocean-sideescapefor land- Jacó hasaspecialplaceintheheartsof Ticos History the mapisstillasgoodit was. ever the consistent surfthatfirst putthebeach on the beach andthesurroundinghillsides, to some,it’simpossibledenythebeautyof and gated communitiesmaybeoff-putting American-style cityscapeof shoppingmalls own decisionsabout theplace. the Although and thestereotypes alike, andmake your it’sprobablybesttoignoreHowever, thehype Truth betold,it’s hardtoknowwhere In onlyafew years time,Jacó becamethe The secret gotoutintheearly1990swhen Like concerningthedelicate allcases bal- PUNTARENAS TO QUEPOS ••Jacó Il Galeone Il Galeone shopping center. Cirrus ATM bank hoursonthe2ndfloorof openduring Calle Cocal; Central) ExchangesUSdollarsandtraveler’s checks. Las Olas&Bohío; perhrUS$0.75; newspapers. languages aswell Olas &Bohío)Hasbooks inseveral US Mexican Joe’s Mexican Books &Stuff Banco Popular Banco deSanJosé down thecoastline. has informationontouristattractionsupand free monthlymagazine date maps,orgotowww.jacoguide.com. The Guide, information. Lookforthefree monthly willgive touroffices several though office, around thewinter holidays. are recommended,reservations especially it’sjam-packed withtourists,so season high Jacó isrelatively expensive, andduringthe boxed text What’sThat Address?, p537 ). thetraditionallandmarksystem (see to use shown onthemap,butlocalscontinue street namesare namesonmoststreets. These more athome,thetownhasplacedsignswith and are the cleanest. fringes are themosttranquilandattractive, it. Theareas onthe and restaurants linetheroadrunningbehind isaboutbeach 3kmlong,andhotels itself forHerradura.3.5km pasttheturnoff The Playa Jacó isabout theCostanera, 2kmoff Orientation of wealth creation. goneawry,orasuccessstorydevelopment the cityasanexampleof eitherunchecked ful eyeonJacó, andwillultimately pointto allof Ricaiscastingawatch-certain, Costa which campyoufallinto,onethingisfor Jacó are justgetting Regardless started. of the illicitkind,andthatproblemsin wealth attractsopportunism,especiallyof pessimistsareHowever, quicktoretort that dents begintoclampdownonillicitvices. infrastructure andthetownresi- stabilizes prostitution willsubsidejustassoonthe ing pains,andargue thatthedrugsand Information that thetownissimplyexperiencinggrow- There’s tourist information nounbiased tomake foreignIn aneffort visitors feel which includestidecharts andup-to- h (Map (Map p332 ; Av Pastor DíazbtwnCallesLas 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noonSat)Hasa 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, (Map (Map p332 ; Av Pastor Díaz btwnCalles (Map (Map p332 ; Av Pastor DíazatCalleLa (Map (Map p332 ; Av of Pastor Díaz,north northern andsouthern Central Pacific Way h 9am-9pm Mon-Sat, Jaco’s 329

CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST COAST PACIFIC CENTRAL ὄὄ

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, which % 2643 Díaz, eastofCalleBohio) include kayaking andhiking fieldtripsand a café andartgallery.Rates ing alsohouses newbuild- art andphotography. Thesweet ies center inSpanish,surfing, offering classes ps US$645-2045; 1-4weekpackages .schooloftheworld.org; in SpanishforaslittleUS$80 per week. Palmeras &CalleLasOlas) Avwww.spanishschool-costarica.com; Pastor DíazbtwnCalleLas City-Playa LanguageInstitute Courses services. spa Spa Serenity A branch of professional theexceedingly SPAS www.waterfallscanopy.com; tours US$55) US$55) Jacó offering similarproducts: In Jacó there are twocompetingcompanies CANOPY TOURS ized dayand multiday trips. jaco.com) Outriggers Jacó CostaRica excursions totropicalislands,contact tripsthatincludesnorkeling canoeing and sea If you’re interested inorganizing kayaking KAYAKING professionalism. and offers anextremely of level high service $60) Tours School oftheWorld , which isrunbyanEnglish couple,and

( % ( and % ) , which offers awidevarietyof custom- isapopularschool andcultural-stud- 2643 3271;www.adventurecanopy.com; tours 8838 7550; www.horseridecostarica.com; from 8838 7550;www.horseridecostarica.com;

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Kayak Kayak 331 CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST COAST PACIFIC CENTRAL CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST Another popular destination isIslaDamas– longer-distance trips aroundthecountry. (fromUS$45)aswell Nacional Carara Tours aroundthe area includevisitstoParque most popular programs. onsite lodging.Spanishandsurfingare the 332 Tours 4 1 3 2 5 JACÓ CENTER UTRNST UPS • aó PUNTARENAS TO QUEPOS ••Jacó EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Soda Flor...... Pancho Villa's...... Pacific Bistro...... Hotel Tangerí...... Banco Popular...... City-Playa LanguageInstitute...... (see24) Taco Bar...... Más XMenosSupermarket...... (see27) Hotel PoseidonRestaurant...... (see10) Gilligan's...... Calinche's WishboneEatery...... Villas Estrellamar...... Rutan SurfCabinas...... Nathon's Place...... Hotel MardeLuz...... Hotel Copacabana...... Red Cross...... Mexican Joe's...... Books &Stuff...... Banco deSanJosé...... Rioasis...... El Hicaco...... Hotel Poseidon...... Hotel deHaan...... Serenity Spa...... Tsunami Sushi...... (see1) 7 AC Calle Anita 13 25

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birders and otherwildlife watchers. Boating island –offering anincredible opportunityfor areas fillwithwater, thispointbecomes an Parrita. tide,asthesurrounding During high that jutsoutinto asmallbayjustsouthof land, butthetipof apointed mangrove forest further south.IslaDamasisnot100% anis- you canorganize tours here orinQuepos, o 6 3 16 26 15 17 C 26 25 24 23 29 28 27 a

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l e s throughout thecountryaswellprivatethroughout Qeo (p343). Quepos Amigo Tico Complete Adventure Tours in expeditionwith can optforasea-kayaking US$65 perperson, butmore avid adventurers tours canbearranged fromJacó foraround Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels .cabinasrutan.com; CalleAnita;dm &rperpersonUS$11- ing inside your room. anyone areason towonderwhatyou’re keep- give attop-endplaces),and never ables (even always bevigilantabout lockingupyourvalu- youshould however, standards; ourhigh meet In keeping withthistheme,welistplacesthat mind thatcomeswithhaving asecure room. a few extradollars for thesafety andpeaceof sometimes it’sworthspending With thatsaid, Rica.theft fromaccommodationsinCosta receiveconstantly reports fromtravelers of scattered around theJacó area, we though There isno shortage of cheap budget hotels BUDGET Hotels below are listed fromnorth to south. than five days),askabout long-term rates. 40% lower. (more Ifyouplanonalengthystay rates couldbeasmuch as30%to low-season New Year’s Eve. Christmasand between andtheweek Easter andbecomecriticalduring the dry-season are recommended highly onweekends in and quietaccommodations.Reservations and southernendsof townhave more relaxed in where Thefarnorthern tostay. youchoose willbeafactor discos, canmeanthatnoise The center of town,withitsmanybars and Sleeping transportation. inter-city Best Western,Av Pastor Díaz) p330; (Map good reviews fromreaders is too goodtobetrue,thenmostlikely it is. on streets, andifanoffer fromavendor seems youshouldn’tbookanythingfromtouts say, from placesthatlookreliable. to Needless yourjudgmentandbook assuming youuse ning tours, usuallyitallworksout– though greasing palmsandwhoisactuallyrun- whose imagine, it’shardtoactuallyknowwhois lucrative commission-based system. As you’d in townbookstours, asJacó operates ona One long-standing agentOne long-standing thatreceives Rutan Surf Cabinas Rutan Surf The rates given rates, but are high-season shop,Virtually every hotel andrestaurant % 2220 2126;www.graylinecostarica.com;

Mp p332 ; (Map , which bookstours PUNTARENAS TO QUEPOS ••Jacó % Gray LineTours 2643 3328;www

‘luxuries,’ such as hot-water shower, cable TV ‘luxuries,’ such ashot-water shower, cableTV while morenight, expensive roomscome with easywithjustafan at pecially ifyoucan sleep cutesy flourishes are abargain atUS$25,es- roomswith totop. Basic cation isdifficult one canquicklyagree thatthebeachfront lo- every- guests withvaryingwalletsizes,though attracts abroadrangemodation, Clarita’s of budgetborder between andmidrange accom- rUS$25-65; of Boulevard; p330; travelers. discerning more surroundings toslightly comfortable while stilloffering and safety, security places thathave quoi, jenesais acertain hensive. wehave However, triedtoselect and ourbrieflistisbynomeanscompre- Jacó ischock-a-block withmidrange hotels, MIDRANGE rounded by like-minded travelers. to have agoodtimehere whenyou’re sur- The buildingisfairlybasic,butit’shardnot plenty of surfadvicealongside killertunes. with thegood-timestheme,Nathondishesout ‘Texas guitar-legend Inkeeping NathonDees.’ ismatic ownerandmanager, self-proclaimed shack radiates goodvibesthankstothechar- The cheapest properhostel intown,thissurfer dm/d/trUS$10/25/30; hostel.com; CalleHicaco; too fussy about your surroundings. you’re juststeps fromthesurf,it’shardtobe showers andcableTV. Andof when course, clean andcozy, andcomewithprivate cold nothing towrite homeabout, buttheyare town. Fairly uninteresting roomsare certainly northern endof Jacó isoneof thebestdealsin local Tico families,thisclutch of cabinsatthe of aninstitutionamongshoestringers and Pastor rfromUS$15; Díaz&Boulevard; are stillin heavy supply. vibesthatfirstsame putthisplaceonthemap and plentyof decorative the flourishes,though and shapes feature tilefloors, solidmattresses fool you–dormsandroomsof varyingsizes tion intown.Don’tlettherock-bottom prices isthebest-valuedSurf Cabinas accommoda- new nameandafresh lookandfeel, Rutan ownership, andsportinga under Californian international surfcommunityforyears. Now the thislocationhasproudlyserved Cabinas, 15; Nathon’s Place Antonio Cabinas Clarita’s Beach Hotel and Sports Bar&Grill andSports BeachHotel Clarita’s pai % 2643 3327; www.claritashotel.com; westernend 2643 3327;www.claritashotel.com; ) FormerlyknownasChuck’s (Map p332; (Map

Mp p330; (Map pas % 8355 4359;www.nathons % ps ) Straddling the 2643 3043;cnrAv Something ) pai 333 (Map (Map

) CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST COAST PACIFIC CENTRAL CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST and most beautiful strips of sand, is seriously and mostbeautifulstripsof isseriously sand, is located just100mfromoneof thequietest This Dutch/Tico outpost isoneof the top dehaan.com; CalleBohío; dm/d/trUS$12/35/45; fromthecenterwill payforataxi of town. mural!). Ifyou’re arriving bybus,theowners and arefreshing pool(check outtheawesome fast, 24-hourfree internet, ashared kitchen budget. amenities includefree Extra break- either fanorair-con dependingonyour with huge dream catchers, andcomewith draped inNepaliprayerflagsand adorned who runtheplace. Vibrantroomshere are chilled outthankstothepairof French surfers pais dmUS$12,dwith/withoutair-conUS$45/35; -kangaroo.com; and up yourtypicalbeer nachos fare. is afunandfriendlyopen-airjointthatserves and air-con. sportsbarandgrill Theattached 334 Hotel Kangaroo Hotel Hotel deHaan Hotel don’t saythatwedidn’twarnyou. now, youmightsayyes. So,remember touseyourjudgment,considertheconsequencesand chance thatyouwillbeoffered drugs. Andthere’s agoodchancethatifyou’re reading thisright dubious quality. ofatree of are frog,andmostbackpackers carving happytopayinUSdollarsforadime-bag an equalamountofblame. Aneight-ball ofcocaineyieldsamuchlarger profitthanawood- drugsintotheircountry,butthetruthisthattheysharenationality are toblameforimporting they were Tic-Tacs. no guarantee you’re are gettingecstasy,backpackers actually poppingpillsintheclubslike any language. The drugofchoiceinthebarsisquicklybecomingcocaine,andalthoughthere’s JacóandTamarindo,scene like it’spossibletobuyjustaboutanydrugonstreet cornerin drugs are becomingreadily availableforpurchase. Onbeacheswithagrowinginternational that thesupplywillmeetdemand. youcanexpect theirbagsandheadingtoCostaRica, packing rapidly, andasmore gringosstart American teenagers plastered onthefrontpageof that itneedstouphold,andthelastthingtouristboardwantsismugsofabunch Morocco,Thailand hasasqueaky-clean,ecofriendlyimagehippie trail,like andIndia,CostaRica itthemselves otherdestinationsonthesmoke tojail.Unlike thansendabunchofbackpackers prison. a CostaRican far asLatinAmericanpenalsystems are concerned,there are placesahelloflotworsethan news isthatthere islittlethatyourembassycandoonbehalf. The goodnewsisthatas outterms, theheadlines.foreigners andoccasionallyabigdrugbustwillmake The serving bad you canbefinedandimprisoneddependingontheseverity oftheoffense. There are currently cotheque). However, drugs are andifyouare 100%illegalinCostaRica, charged withpossession thought tolightingupajointonthebeach(or,more recently, inadis- blowingalineofcoke Drugs are andagoodnumberoftouristswouldnever plentifulinCostaRica, give asecond GOT DRUGS,WILLTRAVEL UTRNST UPS • aó PUNTARENAS TO QUEPOS ••Jacó The moralof the storyisthatatsomepointduringyourtravels there inCostaRica, isagood Ticos willtell youthattheColombians,Jamaicans,Panamanians andjustaboutevery other rightnowisthatagreaterThe inCostaRica mainproblemwiththemarket numberofhard The reality abribeorconfiscate isthatmostpoliceofficerswouldrathercollect ajointand ) Thismuch-loved hostel, which

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) location also meansthat it’s afew degrees ofvistas afiery sky,andthemountain-top when you’llhavelarly atsunset panoramic coastline fromhere are phenomenal,particu- out.Theviewsof the that isworthseeking hotel isanabsolutethis Canadian-run gem Located onthecrest of ahilljustoutsideJacó, breakfast fromUS$55,additionalpersonUS$10; www.vistapacifico.com; dincl topofthehill offBoulevard; morning. the few cansof hours Imperialuntilthewee of backpackers, andswaptravel stories over a cony where youcancongregate withfellow istheupstairsthe property,however, bal- ofinternet aroundtheclock.Thehighlight shared kitchen withfridge, apoolandfree showers are cleanandsecure, andthere’s a Freshly tiled roomswithsteamy hot-water lar withbackpackers fromaroundtheworld. budget betsintown,andisperennially popu- AparHotel Vista Pacifico Vista AparHotel USA Today . However, thingsare changing Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels

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) -poseidon.com; CalleBohío;dfromUS$65; grill upsomekillereatswhilechatting up there aBBQpitwhere iseven youcan all thebetter bythewarmandcaringhosts– and shapescater toallbudgets, andare made boring Jacó. Homeyroomsof varyingsizes cooler (andawholelotquieter) thanneigh- Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels adorable littlehotel withDutch-inspired Olas; d/tr/qinclbreakfast US$75/80/95; .mardeluz.com; Av Pastor Díaz btwnCallesLasPalmeras &Los grounds andfeed offthe mango tree. eye outforthehuge iguanasthatlive onthe swing inthehammockpavilion, and keep an besureoption youchoose, totake arelaxing town. Regardless of which accommodation a dayoutatthebeach out onthe oranight and plentyof spaceforstretching outafter and two-bedroom villas thathave fullkitchens size of fromone- yourparty,youcanchoose your ownpersonal villa. Dependingonthe worth payingthesmallbitof extracashfor bathrooms andprivate balconies,itreally is good valueconsideringtheyboastmassive cious roomsattheEstrellmar are certainly bedroom villaUS$71/111; .estrellamar.com; easternendofCalleLasOlas;rUS$65, 1-/2- personal viewof the Pacific sunset. private balconiesfromwhere youcanget a with well-stocked kitchenettes andspacious value withitslarger suites thatcomeequipped hot tub.Ofcourse, thehotel really packsinthe amenities, includinganattractive pooland ient beachfront locationandrich offerings of are wellpricedconsideringthehotel’s conven- rooms nificant other,fairlymodernstandard traveling eitherbyyourself orwithyoursig- of thesizeandneeds yourparty.Ifyou’remeet for offering avarietyof roomsandsuites to This three-story resort hotel gets goodmarks CalleAnita;rfromUS$70; .copacabanahotel.com; for getting toknow your neighbors. venient swim-upbar,aswellasmallJacuzzi best spotsintown.There’s apool,withcon- that specializesinfresh fish–it’soneof the property istheelegantopen-airrestaurant of the thehighlight tiles,though and mosaic are perfectly accented withelegantfurniture run hotel. Ontheinside,sparklingrooms that adorntheexterior of thissmall European- hard tomiss thehuge Grecian woodcarvings guests. other Hotel Mar deLuz Mar Hotel Estrellamar Villas Copacabana Hotel Hotel Poseidon Hotel

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CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST COAST PACIFIC CENTRAL CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST African–American couple,willwelcomeyou 3912; www.sonidosdelmar.com; house CalleHidalgo; on thecentral Pacific coast. most eclecticoffering of international cuisine storm of change, boastthe andthecity does still afew localspotsthathave weathered the finicky eaters! there Tobefair though, are asgringoshavesurprise areputation asbeing ingly good,which shouldn’tbetoomuch of a speaking, thequalityof fare inJacó issurpris- so it’sbesttoeatearly.Generally rainy season, Hours canfluctuate wildly,especiallyinthe year. every and newonesopen(andclose) Plenty of restaurants busilycater tothecrowds, Eating available. are people, andcheaper andmonthlyrates weekly canaccommodateable. uptosix Thehouse are alsoavail- only 50maway.Fullspaservices of kayaksandsurfboards,thebeach is volcanic rockshowers. Guests have free use Nicaraguan hardwoodceilingsandblack, porating stylisticelementssuch asvaulted isimpeccable,incor- itself crafts. Thehouse original paintings,sculptures andindigenous lector whohaslovingly filledeach roomwith isaskilledartistandcol- Rica.Costa Lauri be oneof in themostbeautifulguesthouses bend of ariver, ‘Soundsof theOcean’may withinamatureyou were! gardenatthe Set you’llwish theirhouse, And, whenyousee asifyouwereto theirguesthouse family. US$250; thetwoentrancesfor between Playa Jacó. reach thehotel, make theCostanera aleftoff toveganmarinated delicacies. seafood) frommarlin everything a waterfall. Theopen-airrestaurant you candipinafree-form poolthat’sfed by the hotel’s ownlineof beautyproductsand are given daily,there’s afullspathatuses ture doublesinksandbathtubs.Yogaclasses andtheluxuriousbathroomsfea-purchase, rated withoriginalartworkthat’savailable for teak-accentedEach roomisintimately deco- in apristinelandscapeof tropicalrainforest. treat consistingof only20roomssheltered ‘Twelve Moons’isaheavenly re- mountain Situated inthefoothillsacross thehighway, d/junior steinclbreakfast US$130/150; internet for special discount rates. here,spending thenight itpaystocheck the 336 Sonidos del Mar Sonidos delMar Docelunas UTRNST UPS • aó PUNTARENAS TO QUEPOS ••Jacó pas

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(Map (Map p332 ; Av Pastor Thebestplace Overseen by Overseen As thesign pizza – lively restaurant that serves upanexquisite lively restaurant thatserves raw fish, don’tmiss Tsunami, amodernand Cocal; sushiUS$8-15) away, butthenearbyPacific ishometosome style rolls.TheFar maybea long way East assortment of andCalifornian- sushi,sashimi lonelyplanet.com Palmeras; mainsUS$8-15) tuna and wahoo. sportsfish, tasty suchseriously asdolphinfish, Tsunami Sushi Pacific Bistro don’t involve asurgeon’s scalpel. After all,youonlyhave one body,andthere are that plentyofwaysto enjoyitinCostaRica detailed research,Conduct ask forreferences don’trushintoanything. andmostimportantly provider. andreputationthing ifyouhave ofthemedical service 100%confidencein theskills mon sense. Regardlessofwhatyoumayread andhear,youshouldonlygothrough withsome- improperly performed. pointingoutthatcosmeticsurgerythat aprocedure canbefatalif goeswrong,andit’sworth are atpar withmore developed countries. Furthermore, there islittlerecourse intheevent the endofdayit’simpossibleto argue thatmedicalstandardsandtraininginCostaRica growing demandhasallowedforincreased investment intheindustry. and nursesare amongthebest-trained medicalprofessionals inLatinAmerica,andthatthe and theever-presentfor services fear oflitigation.They doctors alsopointoutthatCostaRican system inAmericaislimited byexpensive human resources andmedicalsupplies,ahighdemand concern inmostpeoples’minds. cosmetic procedures incomparisontomore developed countriesremains theprincipleissueof rising.of medicalcare However, throughoutthecountryiscertainly thesafety andqualityof operate atamuchlowercostthancomparativecertainly institutionsoverseas, andthestandard just ascomplicated asanyoftheothersfacingcountry.Ononehand,hospitalsinCostaRica who have abitofdisposablecashtoburn. Europeans hailingfromcountrieswithsocialized medicalsystems, aswellyoungertravelers aging wealthyAmericans. targeting The medicaltourismindustryhasalsostarted image-conscious of medicaltourists,agoodnumberwhichfalloutsidethetraditionaltarget namely bracket, dealsalongsidetraditionalecoholidays! all-inclusive medicaltourismpackage therefact, are currently alarge numberofupscalehotels throughoutthecountrythatadvertise though theflowofwealthintocountryhasbroughtthislucrative industryelsewhere. In insuranceplans.malpractice 70% lessoutsidetheUS,especiallygiven aren’t doctors thatCostaRican required tocarrylarge ered bydomesticinsurancepolicies. Furthermore, theseprocedures onaverage cost40%to tummy tucks,breast implants,faceliftsandotherelective procedures thatgenerallyaren’t cov- treatments whilesimultaneouslyenjoyingaforeign holiday. the conceptisbrilliantlyconceived, especiallysinceit’spossibletosave moneyonexpensive medicalcare overseasaccustomed toseeking inlightofsoaringmedicalcostsathome. Indeed, The conceptof especiallysinceAmericanshavemedical tourismisn’tnewtoCostaRica, grown LOSE TUMMY, SAVE MONEY As withanythinginvolvingthesafety com- and securityofyourbody,itpaystoalwaysexert course,regardlessOf ofhowmuchmoneyit’spossibletosave onanelective procedure, at pointoutthatthemedical ofanexpandedmedicaltourismindustryinCostaRica Supporters Needless tosay,theissueregarding themeritsofincreased is medicaltourisminCostaRica Given thisever-expanding anincreasing industry,it’ssurprisingtofindinCostaRica number were medicaltourismdestinationsinCostaRica Historically, Jacó,Tamarindo andSanJosé, areMedical touristsinCostaRica typicallyinterested in cosmeticsurgical suchas practices, (Map (Map p332 ; Av Pastor Díaz,southofCalleLas

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337 2643 CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST COAST PACIFIC CENTRAL CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST good outdoors section. ternational culinaryitems andasurprisingly sive of selection fresh produce,local andin- ‘more forless.’MásXMenos hasanimpres- is pronounced‘maspormenos’andmeans the best beer you’ll the best beer taste.ever downing afew beers. TrytheMaudite –it’s offersstandby amellowatmosphere for into a meat market. which isagoodthingasthisplacecanturn good vantage pointforsizing upyourprey, Palmeras) here of onmostnights the week. there’s agoodchance there will belive music of themore respectable spots in town– night cross-street information is provided. are located onAvenida Pastor Díazandonly guy in the bar. be waryof suddenlybeingthemostattractive Jacó nightlife revolves aroundprostitution,so thatagoodportionof advised est hotspots.Be town, it’sworthaskingaroundtofindthelat- inthisfast-changingeral danceclubs,though likely regret inthemorning.There are sev- get hammered anddosomethingyou’llmost to culturalofferings, butit’sagreat placeto Jacó is something of awasteland inregards Drinking &Entertainment style goga-ga attheWestern- scene, self-caters prefer toskipoutentirely ontherestaurant produce. tropical Rica’s byCosta highlighted special sauces prepared isseafood, house withavarietyof thespecialtyof thethe landandsea, offerings, both frompendent onseasonal elegance. themenuisentirely Although de- this ocean-sidespotbrimmingwithcasual impressed bytheinnovative offerings at ing experienceinJacó, it’shardnottobe US$15-30) ently receives goodmarks from travelers. refined European-stylediningthatconsist- relaxing. Agoodbetfortop-qualityfoodand professional andtheatmosphere upscaleyet an Asian flare. Saucesare inventive, thestaff upwith cialty here isfresh served seafood sophisticated restaurants intown,thespe- 338 If you’re countingyourcolones,orjust o La Bruja Jungle Bar&Grille Tabacon All of stated) places(unless otherwise these UTRNST UPS • aó PUNTARENAS TO QUEPOS ••Jacó Más XMenos The second-story terrace gives Thesecond-story youa Generally regardedGenerally asthetopdin-

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% % (Map (Map p332 ; CalleLaCentral) 2643 2665;PlazaJacómall; 8am-6pm) 2643 1752;Av Pastor Díazat 2643 1719;Av Pastor Díaz, lonelyplanet.com This US$35-50; pacifico.com; r/stefromUS$100/160; lonelyplanet.com has afew rooms of varyingsize withair-con, decidedly more budget delMar friendly. Brisa bit furthersouthto surfers. upscale ties, thisHermosa isstrictlyfor establishment rooms andawholelistof impressive ameni- Spanish colonialaccents,spacioustile-floored killerbreaks.some seriously Ofcourse, with has primebeachfront propertyoverlooking is listed fromnorth to south. especially in neighboring Jacó. is heavily advertised aroundthecountry, competition surf surfers descendonHermosa fortheannual in Augustwhenlocalandinternational pro beach amiss. consider stoppingby However, wanttogiveaspiring pros,youmight this unforgiving. are as thehuge waves andstrongriptideshere toknowwhatyou’re parts need doinginthese youreally surf,though upsomeserious serves sistent breaks inthecountry,PlayaHermosa Hermosa. Regardedasoneof themostcon- across thefacesof monster waves atPlaya veteransseasoned are thrashingtheirway their boardsinJacó, afew kilometers south While newbie surfers upon tostand struggle HERMOSA PLAYA alongAvenidathe taxis Pastor Díaz. Taxi 30-30 US$3 toUS$5.Toarrange forapick-up,call Taxis toPlayaHermosa fromJacó costabout TAXI Terraza delPacífico The following places to stay andeatareThe followingplacestostay If yourwalletisa bitthinner,thenheada The mostfamoushotel onPlayaHermosa If youdon’tthinkcanhackitwiththe predominantly apick-up sceneforgaymenonvacation–more information,see p348 . ated, namelyLaPlayitainManuelAntonio. mentioningthatthisbeachis However, it’sworth generous withthesunscreen. isolated stretch ofsand.Andremember, ifyou’re spendingyourspringbreak be inCostaRica, temptation sunistoomuchtobear,pleasebeconsiderate togetalittleextra andmove toan will hootandholler,butremember beachesare CostaRican often frequented byfamilies. Ifthe more than75%ofTicos are Catholics. practicing Sure, ifyoubare italltheguysonbeach going toplessisheavilyfrowneduponinCostaRica. This ofcourseshouldn’tbe surprisingas Though it’stheculturalnormforEuropean women andAmericancollegegirls onspringbreak, GOING TOPLESS? Just fortherecord, there isoneplaceinthecentralPacific where toplesssunbathingistoler- pa

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7am- 339 2643 CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST COAST PACIFIC CENTRAL CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST dari bythePacific dari Although palm oil doesn’t have palmoil doesn’t theimmediateAlthough ifyou’rewhat pleasant a fan of friedfoods. kilometers theodorissome- away,though the plantcanbesmelledfromseveral right, oil processingplant. Ifthewindisblowing name,ishometoa tremendoussame palm Parrita, abustlingtownonriver of the PARRITA ing south from Jacó. tively, andcanallbereached byanybushead- 25km and30kmsoutheastof Jacó, respec- towns are about22km, theCostanera all off andEsterillos Este. Esterillos Centro These with accesstothebeach: Esterillos Oeste, fusing tonavigate asthere are three towns hard to leave! can check inanytimeyoulike, butit’sdamn whereing surf.Welcometoparadise, you infinity poolthatfacesouttowardthecrash- fare, aswell asanimmaculate palm-fringed specializing ingourmetandorganic healthy travel plans,there isalsoanonsite restaurant tomakeenough youpostponeyouronward cate tile-work.As mosaic ifallof thiswasn’t custom leatherworkandimpossiblyintri- concrete-poured furniture doneupwith wallsofsheer glassframing private gardens, elements includingwooden-latticeceilings, arange ofvilla encompasses intriguingdesign individuallydesignedon theproperty.Each fromthemomentyoustep footis evident is theincredible architectural scheme that Pacific, butwhatmakes Xandari sounique of attractive resorts alongthisstretch of the Esterillos onthemap.There isnoshortage stunning resort thatisaimingtoputPlaya .com; villaUS$235-370; chance atthebrand-new tostay budget ortwo,donotmiss the foranight guests. for as free surfboards,bodyboardsandbikes mocks onsite –perfect forlounging–aswell surf. Andof course, there are plentyof ham- tic rooms,andisonlysteps awayfromthe beachfront spotthathasahandfulof rus- .pelicanhotelcr.com; rfromUS$65; longstanding selves totheelements,there’s alwaysthe of thebeach. underneath thetrees atthenorthernedge 340 If it’spossibleforyoutostretch your For anyonenotkeen onexposing them- The PlayaEsterillos area canbealittlecon- UTRNST UPS • art PUNTARENAS TO QUEPOS ••Parrita Pélican Hotel

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( % 2778 8105;www ) , avisually o , ahomey, ) Xan- ps tip of amangrove peninsulathatbecomesan sion istovisit town tothebeach. Anotherpopularexcur- A 6kmdirtroadconnectstheeastern edge of that provide goodopportunitiesforbirding. beachsand located nearmangrove swamps visit (aside fromlearningabout palmoil!)isto road out there! –becarefulthe Costanera ifyou’re onthe flying downthisrelatively poorstretch of trucks stacked fullof reddish fruitthatcome inthehuge big-rigperhaps mostevident are andpressed. separated Thislaststep is them toprocessingplantswhere thefruits must alsocollectmature podsandtransport provide easyaccesstothepod.Workers in ordertoencourage fruitgrowthandto addition, frondsmustberegularly clipped floor andapplyingpoisontothetrunks.In plished byclearinggrowthontheforest the palmsclearof which isaccom- insects, maintenance, workers spendhours keeping a fascinatingone. Interms of day-to-day sides of theroadas watch theworkers inthefieldson and snack foods. Snickers bars andfrench friestobaked goods finds itswayintojustabout from everything, recognition asolive oilperhaps, theproduct oewy bridges. one-way and stretches of rickety dirt,with several road isamixof abadlypotholedpavement on thewaytoQuepos. Ifyou’re driving,the morethrough African palm-oilplantations Jacó. After Parrita, roaddipsinland thecoastal can bereached byanybusheading southfrom like visiting family. go outof theirwaytomake guestsfeel more are extremely warmandaccommodating, area.off-the-beaten-path TheFrench owners rented ifyou’re interested inexploringthis grounds. Kayaks, bikes andhorses canbe bathrooms, fullystocked kitchens andbreezy apartments forrent thathave private tiled B&B Beso delViento the islandfor around US$5. you canhire aboattobringyouandfrom package tours fromJacó andQuepos,though tide.island athigh Mostpeoplearrive here on If you’re onPlayaPalo lookingtostay Seco, The primaryreason forvisitingParrita While you’re thearea, drivingthrough Parrita isabout 40kmsouthof Jacó, and Playa Palo Seco ) hasfourmodestbutcomfortable Isla Damas Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels

, aquiet,unhurriedgray- ( % 2779 9674;d/qUS$70/150; , which isactually the palm oil industryis From itstree-to-tree platforms,there are spec- it isstillregarded asoneof theregion’s best. the forest America,though canopy inCentral was thefirst Rainmaker RAINMAKER AERIALWALKWAY lonelyplanet.com is 7kmto the parking area. 15km west of it Quepos). Fromtheturnoff, ern endof Pocares (10km eastof Parrita or atthenorth- ontheCostanera Rainmaker along the trails! poison-dart frogs,which are very common Keephectare preserve. youreyeoutfor strenuous trailsintotheheartof the2000- some of thelocalplants,andsomelong tive trailsthatenablethe visitor toidentify some 20storiesabove the forest floor. point,youare about 250mlong.Atthehighest walkwayis span isabout90m,andthetotal the treetops toanotherplatform.Thelongest which thefirst of sixsuspensionbridges spans hundredseveral steps to atree platform,from ofbase thewalkway.Fromhere, visitors climb of bridges acrossthecanyon floorleadtothe the rocks.Awoodenboardwalkandseries yon withapristinestream tumblingdown visitors walkupabeautifulrain-forest can- US$2400 for one month. are placementand US$1250 foratwo-week various communityoutreach programs.Fees opportunities toworkwithlocalschools and theproject. Thereto runandpreserve are also month inoneof thefourdepartmentsneeded unteers toparticipate toone fortwoweeks hydrated and sunburnt free. life, asare water andsunprotection forstaying Binoculars are invaluable forwatching wild- tours(US$90) andnight (US$60)available. fast andlunch, there though are alsobirding tours break- costUS$65andincludealight Quepos 27773565;www.rainmakercostarica.org). hotels orbycallingthe canbemadeatmost Sunday; reservations in Manuel AntonioandQueposdailyexcept well astheoccasional monkey sighting. myriad opportunitieshere forgreat birdingas tropical wildlife, which meansthatthere are isalsohometothefullcomplementof reserve outtothePacificoccasional vistas Ocean.The rainforest,primary andsecondary aswell panoramicviewsoftacular thesurrounding A large colorfulsignmarkstheturnoff for In addition,there are shortinterpre- also offersRainmaker opportunitiesforvol- Tours withnaturalistguidesleave hotels From the parking lot and orientation area,From theparkinglotandorientation QUEPOS&MANUEL ANTONIO ••Quepos Rainmaker office Rainmaker aerial walkway aerial Standard Standard through through (

% in to Manuel Antonio,thevillage of Manuel Quepos proper,theroadfrom by farmers from the highlands. were left,andthe area began tobecolonized the 19thcentury, nopure-blooded Quepoa andslavery.European diseases Bytheendof ofpopulations, theQuepoa declinedbecause of theConquest.As withmanyindigenous Borucas, whoinhabited thearea atthetime indigenous Quepoa,asubgroup of the This town’snamewasderived fromthe History tourist-packed gringo trail beyond. provides amore low-key alternative tothe remains arelatively authenticTico townthat forming theManuel Antonioarea, Quepos thetourismboomisrapidlytrans- Although from much of thecentralPacific coast. attractive small-towncharm thatisabsent especiallysinceitexudesanplace tostay, national parkand the beaches. toorganize tothe will need transportation is generally cheaper you intown,though outsideofto stay Quepos,accommodation number of visitors toManuel Antonioprefer While agood ofneed goodsand services. as wellaconvenient fortravelers base in asthegateway forthenationalpark, serves Manuel Antonio,thesmalltownof Quepos Located just7kmfromtheentranceto QUEPOS Antonio andthenational park itself. creased foreign investment. itsrootsdespiteis admirably maintaining in- hype, whiledecidedlymore relaxed Quepos a stunningdestinationworthyof thetourist Manuel downtothesea, Antoniois sweeping and palmoil:tourism.Withrain-forested hills moreon somethingeven lucrative thanfish withanopportunitytocashin found itself Nacional Manuel Antonio,Quepossuddenly begantoshineonnearbyParquespotlight workers.tation astheinternational However, community of fishermen,merchants andplan- had ambitionsof beinganythingmore thana provincialThe sleepy, townof Queposnever ANTONIO QUEPOS &MANUEL However, QueposcanbeanappealingHowever, isdividedintoNote thatthissection

341 CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST COAST PACIFIC CENTRAL CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST Puntarenas. More visitors meansmore jobsin liners willnolongercruise have todockat new marinainthe nextfew years means that by theboatload,and theconstructionof the as touristsare comingto Manuel Antonio locals. the they generated alotlessemploymentfor as themajor unfortunately localcrop,though rows aroundQuepos,soonreplaced bananas rently stretch towardthehorizonindizzying Africanoilpalms,which cur-mand raises). issues (underpaidworkers hadthegalltode- andlabor decadesduetodisease subsequent cropsdeclinedprecipitouslytury, though in banana-exporting portintheearly20thcen- 342 Cocal Playa Quepos Playa 4 1 3 2 QUEPOS Quepos first cametoprominenceasa But thefuture for locals islookingbright To Docks(1km) UPS&MNE NOI • Qeo QUEPOS &MANUEL ANTONIO ••Quepos Four TraxAdventure...... SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Hotel Sirena...... Best WesternHotelKamuk...... Luna Tours...... (see14) anae fie...... A1 Rainmaker Office...... A1 Internet Quepos.com...... Wide-Mouth FrogBackpackers...... Oceans Unlimited...... Lynch Travel...... Iguana Tours...... Bluefin Sportfishing...... Coopealianza...... Books2Go...... Banco deSanJosé...... Hotel Ceciliano...... Ríos Tropicales...... Manuel AntonioDivers...... Costa MarDreamCatcher...... AC 14 21 Puntarenas (138km);SanJosé(146km) Park 4 Costanera Sur(2km);Jacó(63km); To DiscotecaArcoIris(100m); 6 18 20 16 10 12 1 9 19 22 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 C2 A1 C2 A2 D3 D3 A2 B2 D2 D2 A1 C2 B2 B2 A2 Market B Casino...... (see 14) TRANSPORT ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING EATING Taxi Stand...... Sansa...... NatureAir...... (see 8) Bus Terminal...... Alamo...... Sargento García...... El GranEscape...... Tropical Sushi...... Monchados...... El Patio...... Café Milagro...... (see18) Elegante...... 27 24 Hall Town 3 2 Books2Go BOOKSHOP Information will have onthis humble town. tion, butitistooearlytotell this whateffect is scheduled toopenbythisbook’spublica- on mostpeople’sminds.ThePez Vela Marina heavy forbalancedgrowthisweighing need thequestionofthough andthe sustainability the area’s rapidlyexpandingtouristmarket, guarantees that shehasthelowest around. prices Susanalso bookstoursinthearea, and read agoodbook. photos ontoCDs,check the internet,orjusthangoutand ing place.Youcanpost messages, store yourbags,burn asatraveler’s meet- quaint littlebookshopthat alsoserves .co.cr; internetperhrUS$2; 15 School ( 22 21 20 19 18 27 26 25 24 23 17 % 26 B2 A1 A1 B2 A1 B2 C2 D3 B2 C2 200 m miles 0.1 0 0 2777 1754,83713476;tours2go@racsa 23 Soccer 5 Field h 10am-6pm) Susanrunsa 8 7 Dr MaxTeranVals(4.5km); lonelyplanet.com To CostaneraSur(4km); Manuel Antonio(7km) D To ParqueNacional 11 13 Airport (5km) 12 25 and seriously injured to patientsareand seriously evacuated San José. thishospitaldoesn’thaveatraumacenter However, airport. Antonio area. It’sontheCostaneraSurenrouteto vides emergencymedicalcare fortheQueposandManuel magazine, foundinmanyofthetown’s businesses. penings are listedinthis free English-language monthly MEDICAL SERVICES with decent connections. computers Mon-Sat) Youcancheckemailhere onseveral Quepos.com Internet ACCESSINTERNET Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels a boatfor the day. expect topayupwards of US$1000tohire out withacharteryou incontact outfit.Youcan anyhotel inthearea canhelpput reservation, usually besttocall ahead.Ifyoudon’thave a Not allcharters have inQuepos, soit’s offices of themaincharter outfitsare listed following. areApril, whensailfish beinghooked. Some Offshore fishingisbest from Decemberto Sportfishing isbigintheQueposarea. SPORTFISHING Activities Go over thehilltoManuel Antonio instead. luted and notrecommended forswimming. garnerthewrongkind tainly of attention. around towninyourswimsuitwillmostcer- workersplantation onweekends. Sowalking that thetown’sbars attractrowdycrowdsof security. of phere sense should notlullyouintoafalse from dangerous, butthelaidbackatmos- guardedlotsinstead. Theareause isfar leavenever cars unattended onthestreet – travelers shouldalwayslockhotel roomsand increased policepresence inthearea, but Rican the Costa authorities have greatly tourists hasattracted thieves. Inresponse, The town’slarge numberof easilyspotted Dangers &Annoyances Quepolandia TOURIST INFORMATION lars and traveler’s checks. systems. Otherbankswillallchange USdol- have 24-hourATMs onthe CirrusandPlus deSanJoséandCoopealianzaboth Banco MONEY TeranDr Max Vals Note that thebeaches inQueposare pol- In addition,womenshouldkeep in mind (www.quepolandia.com) Thelatesthap- ( % (per hrUS$2; 2777 0200)Ahospitalthatpro- QUEPOS&MANUEL ANTONIO ••Quepos h 8am-8pm the QuepostoManuel Antonio section, unlimitedcr.com) www.bluefinsportfishing.com) Acrossfromthesoccer www.bluefinsportfishing.com) field. adventure.com) Four-hourATV toursare US$95 perperson. toCafe Next marsportfishing.com) Milagro. antoniodivers.com) forest tours,thistravelshophas it all. andrain- tofishingpackages From airlinereservations Western Hotel Kamuk. by phoneorthrough your hotel. Damas. AmigoTico doesn’thaveanofficeinQuepos; book toursofIsla and thisoutfitalsooffers boatandkayaking biking mountain ontheSavegreand fishing. isUS$95 Afulldayofrafting parks, national in walks rafting, including arangeoftours, Offers 2812; www.puertoquepos.com) excursions. mangrovetoursanddolphin-watching ing, horserides, seakayak- rafting, river shopoffering An adventure-travel office in Quepos. companyhasan rafting .com) ThevenerableCostaRican eto, p352. section, p347 aswelltheManuel Antonio Village Christmasand between New Year’s Eve. and are andtheweek duringEaster necessary weekends recommended duringhigh-season are and busstopsare inQuepos.Reservations convenient, asallthebanks, supermarkets road toManuel Antonio. Itcanalsobemore pricesatmany lodgesto thesky-high onthe inQueposoffersStaying acheaper alternative Sleeping Ríos Tropicales Lynch Travel Iguana Tours Four TraxAdventure Tours Amigo Tico Adventure Complete in theQuepos area. There are numerousreputable touroperators Tours Oceans Unlimited AntonioDivers Manuel is notaproblem when diving. from thepolluted beaches, sowater pollution mended byreaders. Thedive are sights away following operators have recom- bothbeen Quepos andManuel Antonioarea, the though The dive sites are inthe stillbeingdeveloped DIVING Luna Tours Catcher Dream Costa Mar Bluefin Sportfishing For more accommodation options,see ( % ( ( % % ( 2777 0725;www.lunatours.net) InBest % 2777 1170;www.lynchtravel.com) 2777 1262;www.iguanatours.com) ( % 2777 4092;www.riostropicales ( ( % % 2777 3171; www.oceans ( % 2777 1676,2222; 2777 1825;www.fourtrax ( % 77 43 www.manuel 3483; 2777 2777 0725;www.costa ( % 2777

343 CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST COAST PACIFIC CENTRAL CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST .com; s/d/trUS$55/65/75; scene. Thehotel isalsoperfectly accented away fromtherough-and-ready Queposstreet ing, Mediterranean ambiencethatisaworld Tiffany lamps,which give thehotel asooth- walls withsoft pastel trimare subtlylitbyblue best midrange optionintown.Whitewashed dition totheQueposscene,andis easily the boutique hotel isawarmandwelcomead- during theentirety of your stay. ensure reigns Ricanhospitality thatCosta true kept spic-and-span,andthewelcomingstaff newest hotel here ontheblock,everything is isn’tthe ing owners. theCeciliano Although roomsandwelcom- marks foritscomfortable thisfamily-friendlythough spotgets good Quepos catering primarilytoTico travelers, There isnoshortage of budget hotels in a few drinks. over unwindsandletsloose when everyone out thepremises, especiallyintheevenings generally goodvibesthatradiate through- what makes thisplacesomemorable isthe free DVDrental libraryandfree internet. But loungewith ahuge witha diningarea, aTV swap stories.There’s alsoacommunalkitchen chairs where backpackers cancongregate and tered onaninviting poolwithplentyof lounge tiledroomsare Brightly right. everything cen- Rica–andsofar,they’vetions inCosta done their littlespotoneof thebestaccommoda- couplewhoare determined tomakeZealand outpost isrunbyawelcomingBritish–New bathroom US$34/24; 2798; www.widemouthfrog.org; dmUS$9,dwith/without 344 o Hotel Sirena Hotel Ceciliano Hotel sible thatafew golddoubloonscouldstillbelying somewhere, waitingtobeunearthed. since looted. However, ifthetreasure wasindeedaslarge asit’sdescribedinlore, thenitispos- the ruinsofmissionwhere discovered destroyedandwere in1974, theywere long virtually closed permanentlyin1746asmostoftheQuepoahadsuccumbedtoEuropean diseases. Although had astrongloyaltytotheSpanishcrown. which destinationwastheSanBernadinodeQuepoMission, avoid beingraidedatsea,alikely to thegroundbyCaptain HenryMorgan. Sincetheshipswere probablyoff-loadedquicklyto of Spanishshipsladenwithtreasure escapedfromPanama Citymomentsbefore itwasburned and fromtheSouthPacific. beliefstemmed fromarumorthatin1670,number Clipperton’s whobefriendedthecoastalQuepoaduringhisyearsofsailingtoEnglish pirate JohnClipperton, the QueposandManuelAntonioarea waitingtobediscovered. The lore waspopularized bythe Locals have longbelieved thatatreasure billionsandofdollarsliessomewhere in worth X MARKS THESPOT UPS&MNE NOI • Qeo QUEPOS &MANUEL ANTONIO ••Quepos John Clipperton diedin1722withoutever discoveringJohn Clipperton thelegendarytreasure, andthemission Wide-Mouth Frog Backpackers FrogBackpackers Wide-Mouth

pais (

% ( % 2777 0572;www.lasirenahotel 2777 0192;dfromUS$25; ps ) Thisbackpacker Thisintimate ) ( % 2777 p )

the core of thehotel isawindingwoodenstair- is anythingbutAmericanin ambiance. Infact, onceyougetthough pastreception, thehotel is professional fromcheck-in tocheck-out, Western labelensuresThe Best thatservice historic buildingthatprovides excellentvalue. the Hotel Kamuk isasurprisinglyrefreshing Westerninreality brandname,though Best ket bears Queposstalwart thesomewhatstale rfromUS$85; .kamuk.co.cr; a tranquil swimming pool. byaquainttikibaroverlookingis highlighted with potted plantsandoriginalartwork, language newspapers thatare available, you want tosimplyrelax and read theEnglish- into alarge cupof drip-filter coffee. Or,ifyou a sloth),which isadoubleespresso poured up inthemorning –trythe cino andespresso, thisisagreat placetoperk someof thecountry’sbestcappuc- Serving Manuel Antonio Village section, p352 . to Manuel Antonio section, p351 aswellthe surprising numberof international eateries. major touristattraction), Queposishometoa For asmallTico town(albeitontheedge of a Eating discount rates are sometimes available. here,planning onstaying check theinternet as you wantabitmore breathing space. Ifyou’re attractive poolorWestern-style restaurant if ern amenities,andyoucanalwaysheadtothe they’resmall side,though equippedwithmod- with colonialflourishes. Roomsare abitonthe thatfansouttobreezy hallwaysadorned case Café Milagro Café Kamuk Hotel Best Western For more the Quepos eatingoptions,see

(dishes US$2-5; Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels pas h

( % perezoso 6am-10pm Mon-Fri) ) Thisupmar- 2777 0379;www (lazyor

tional Limónese dishesandMexicantional Limónese stand- with dinner-goers wholineuptotrytradi- Mex-Caribstanding spot isalwaysbustling Something of aQueposinstitution,thislong- sandwich. deli can indulge inabaked goodorafreshly made lonelyplanet.com town for accessingManuel Antonio. Prices .sansa.com) Both AIR Getting There& Away beats. dance of town,bringsoutthelocalswiththumping trial-sized Western Hotel Kamuk,Best andtheindus- giving awayyourcash,there’s thecasinoat García chit-chat, asistheAmerican-themed ( jump in a taxi. to sophisticated, it’seasyenough however, you are lookingforsomethingabitmore you’ll findintheManuel Antonioarea. If and travelers, andit’scheaper thananything Nightlife inQueposisagoodblendof locals Drinking &Entertainment wine. imported and enjoyyourmealover afew of glasses afewsample dishes here, goslow, though their naturalflavors. Ifyou’re afanof tapas, and alwaysprepared inawaythathighlights produce are alwaysof quality, thehighest andlocal, which meansthatmeats,seafood Theunspokensurprise. rulehere isfresh and changes failsto enticeand dailyyetnever tourists alike, itsmenu inpartbecause spotisadored bylocalsand Latino Nuevo rolls. Rican– style someof out abitandsampling thelocalCosta spreads,sashimi it’sworthventuring though If you’re apurist,youcansticktothetuna has anall-you-can-eatspecialforjustUS$15. try thiscolorfullydecorated restaurant, which Japanese (yes,thesushichef isfromJapan!), –forauthentichas gonecosmopolitan music. live in thevibrantdecorationsandfairlyregular bland,athemethatisalsoreflectednever ards. Foodhere iseclectic,innovative and % Monchados The fishermen-friendly El Patio Tropical Sushi 2777 0395; NatureAir ( % service Quepos, which is the base Quepos,which isthebase service 2777 2960;

Discoteca ArcoIris Discoteca (mains US$8-15; h

(www.natureair.com) (dishes US$7-12;

6am-11pm) QUEPOS&MANUEL ANTONIO ••Quepos (rolls US$1-3; h 9am-11pm) is good for a beer and isgoodforabeer h ( h

h 6am-10pm) h and . Ifyoufeel like 5-10pm) 10pm-late) El GranEscape 5pm-midnight) Sansa Quepos Sargento Sargento , north This

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1:30pm. of the market. 0425/734) cost aboutUS$5. Call gers will foraboutUS$0.50.A private taxi Antonio willusually pickupextrapassen- QueposandManuel between Colectivo taxis TAXI Elegante Alamo guarantee availability: aheadandreconfirmin Quepos;reserve to The followingcar-rental companiesoperate CAR the dry season. 10:25pm. There are more frequent in buses The lastbusdepartsManuel Antonioat 7:30pm, andlessfrequently after 7:30pm. from themainterminal 6amand between 30minutes every (US$0.25) departroughly QueposandManuel between Buses Antonio BUS Getting Around Uvita, viaDominical San José San Isidro,viaDominical Puntarenas Jacó destinations: following fromQueposdepartforthe terminal. Buses h office Moralesticket Transportes ets forSanJoséwellinadvanceatthe terminal inthecenter of town.Buytick- arriveAll buses anddepartfromthemain BUS traffic). on make thetripforUS$3toUS$5(depending area. Quepos can bookcharter toandfromthe flights and reconfirm often. (and pay)foryourticket wellahead of time are sobook Flights packed season, inthehigh fromSanJoséorLiberia. US$75 foraflight youcanexpecttopayalittlelessthan though andavailability, vary accordingtoseason 3pm. 8am, 10am,noon,2pm,4pmand 7:30pm. The airportis5kmoutof town,andtaxis Lynch Travel 7-11am &1-5pmMon-Sat,7am-1pmSun) US$1.50, 1½hours,4:30am,7:30am,10:30am and ( % (Transportes Morales)US$4,fourhours,5am, (Transportes or catch one at the taxi stand south orcatch stand oneatthetaxi ( % 2777 3344; US$3, 3½hours,8am,10:30amand3:30pm. 2777 0115;

( % US$4,4½hours,10amand7pm. 2777 1170;www.lynchtravel.com) h h US$3,three hours,5amand 7:30am-noon &1:30-5:30pm) 7:30am-5pm Mon-Fri) Quepos Taxi

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CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST COAST PACIFIC CENTRAL CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST stretch of roadisn’texactly pristineand idyllic palm-fringed coastline. Ofcourse, thisnarrow views of forested slopesleading downtothe over anumberof hillsawashwith picturesque roadpasses the nationalpark. Theserpentine Manuel Antonio Village andtheentranceto inland for7kmbefore reaching thebeaches of From theportof Quepos,theroadswings 346 QUEPOS TOMANUEL ANTONIO be critical the next time you seetheword‘eco.’be criticalthenext damage anddistributingitsbenefitstolocalcommunities. Travel responsibly, thinkgreen and local community. ofprofitstothethe touristflowtoindigenousareas; and,whenpossible,donatingaportion regulating educatingvisitorsaboutlocalcustomsandpractices; cal and/orspiritualimportance; achieve thesegoalsbyfostering indigenouscustoms;protecting sites ofhistorical,archaeologi- help maintainnaturalresources thatmightotherwisebeexploited. Anecofriendlybusinesscan Although tourismcontributes tothelossofculturalintegrity, itcanalsoalleviate poverty and tioning withoutsocialdisharmonyasaresult ofitsadaptationtoanincreased volumeoftourists. inordertomaintainthehealthoflocaleconomy. products anduselocalmaterials localmarkets and foodsthatsupport can bedisplayedforsale,serve local population,associate withlocallyownedbusinesses,provide placeswhere native handicrafts An ecofriendlybusinesscanaddress theserealities byhiringamajorityofitsemployeesfrom the problem astheindividualslivingintheselocalesare relatively removed fromthegreater economy. tourists are increasingly interested in visitingthemostundeveloped areas possible,whichisa can have harmfulconsequencesonthesustainabilityofanarea. as This isespeciallyimportant munities anddevelopers asthemisdistributionofeconomicbenefitsgenerated byabusiness mental problems. as wellbeanactive memberofregional orlocalorganizations thatworkonsolvingenviron- programs inenvironmentalconservation When itispossible,abusinessshouldalsoparticipate illumination whenever groundsusingonlynative possibleandmaintainpesticide-free plants. manage theirwastewater andpollutants,implementalternative energy systems, usenatural the bare inrecycling minimum,anecofriendlybusinessshouldparticipate programs,effectively guidelines.relatively forabusinesstoadhere At conservation tostrict untouched, itisimportant ecofriendly businessthatevery traveler shouldbeaware of. However, there are ofrunningan variousenvironmental,economicandsocioculturalaspects ‘ecodestination,’ yetthere are nouniversal whatitmeanstobe‘eco.’ exactly guidelinesdictating the problemisthatitbecomingincreasingly popularfordestinationstolabelthemselves as destination whilesimultaneouslyminimizingnegative ontheenvironment.Unfortunately, impacts oftourism,specificallytravelingimpacts inamannerthatissensitive totheconditionsofyour you explainwhyyourgraywater tricklesdownthehillsideintostream below? is truly‘eco.’ Sure, youdidn’tcutdownasingletree whenyoubuiltyourcanopytour,butcan it’sdifficultevensometimes inCostaRica forthediscerningtraveler toknowwhetherabusiness cards printed onrecycled plastered stickers paperandabunchoftree-frog onanofficewall, but touristwithbusiness easyto dupe youraverage package It’s certainly protector of MotherEarth. shopandATVrant, souvenir stall,buscompany,surf touroperatorisclaimingtobeafriendand and Ecotourism meansbigbusinessinCostaRica, everysometimes itcanseemlike hotel, restau- HOW TOKNOWIFABUSINESSISREALLY ECOFRIENDLY UPS&MNE NOI • Qeo oMne noi QUEPOS &MANUEL Antonio ANTONIO ••QuepostoManuel Tourism willnever beacompletely harmlessventure, butthere are ways ofminimizingits The ofecotourismrefers sociocultural aspect totheabilityofacommunitycontinuefunc- The economicsofanecotouristdestinationisamajorissueconcerningtourists,localcom- Since mostecotourismdestinationsare located inareas where thenaturalenvironmentis abalancebetweenthepositiveThe andnegative guidingprinciplebehindecotourismisstriking ous tourist traps,yourcash willgoalong but ifyoushop aroundandavoid the obvi- theareaparts. Withthat said, isn’tcheap, inthese extremely of service high-standard lar isfierce,generally speakingthere isan Quepos andManuel Antonio area. oriented hotels, restaurants andshops inthe as itislinedwiththevastmajority of tourist- Although competitionfor thetouristdol- Although lonelyplanet.com and birding tours. ( p357 hiking horsebackriding, rafting, ) offers white-water andinformationofficeforthislodge .com) Thebooking area. this informationfor Antonio)Agoodsourceoftourist Manuel exchange US dollars. Sat) Hasa24-hourATM ontheCirrusnetworkandcan Note thattheroadtoManuel Antonioissteep, Orientation down anddineoutinthelap of luxury. hotels and restaurants here where youcanbed way. And,there are trulyare someworld-class Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels 310-435 9897, 262-3678589 ; www.escueladamore.com) Escuela deIdiomasD’Amore Courses and thenature of your trip. Prices varydependingonthesizeof theparty ontheSavegreskill levels andNaranjorivers. antonio.com) is surroundedby nature trails. (US$40perperson) showatnight and light are bred here. The gardenhasasound-and- garden. About three dozenspeciesof butterfly a private rain-forest and butterfly preserve Naturales and situated justacrossthestreet is coffee. tasty relief treatments, coconut bodyscrubsand a goodplaceforcouple’smassages,sunburn- Spa Serenity You canrelax after a day’s activitiesatthe Sights &Activities Lodge Safari Rafiki La BuenaNota TOURIST INFORMATION Banco Promerica MONEY Internet El Chante Café Internet Cantina ACCESSINTERNET Information with care, especially at night. should exercise cautionanddrive andwalk ofin theevent anemergency. Atalltimes,you ties, andthere are almostnoplacestopullover drivers love veloci- tocareen athigh through winding andvery localbus narrow.Worse, Amigos del Rio Amigos delRio Also belongingtotheSiComoNohotel

(www.butterflygardens.co.cr; admissionUS$15) (www.butterflygardens.co.cr; runs white-water rafting tripsforall

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( 2777 0777, ext 220;SiComoNohotel) 2777 0777,ext % h (perhrUS$2) ( 2777 1002;[email protected]; % 2777 1084;www.adventuremanuel (perhrUS$2) 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 2777 2250;www.rafikisafari

( % 2777 1143,intheUSA QUEPOS &MANUEL Antonio ANTONIO ••QuepostoManuel Fincas has , , est, andistheperfect retreat fromallof your nestled ontheverdant edge of therainfor- ‘Kids Saving (KSTR), theRainforest’ started by TheMonoAzul ishometo to agoodcause. knowingthatyourmoneyisgoing at night well pools andgamesroom. You’llalsosleep forest paraphernalia,notto mentionthethree is decorated withanimalmuralsandrain- This isagreat familyoptionastheentire hotel s/d/tr fromUS$55/60/65,childunder12yrfree; about Rica. Costa and canshare withyoua wealth of knowledge The owners speakhalfadozen languages, dishes. Italian-influenced rant-bar serving pool, afiber-optically litJacuzzi andrestau- here include thepalm-fringed swimming colorfulmurals.Highlights up withbright, roomsthatareterra-cotta-tiled positively lit and wood-trimmedhotel hasspacious,clean, couple,thiswhitewashed Italian delightful .com; dUS$65,juniorsteUS$85; lookouttower(opento high the public). trails intotheforest, where you’llfinda17m- Thegroundsboast10kmofthe junglehouse. while groupsof uptofive canlive itupin have great polished-wooddecksforlounging, suitesLarger are two andthree and storiestall, which create atranquil,relaxed atmosphere. stresses. Roomshave super-high ceilings, jungle houseUS$100; with/without air-conUS$75/65,2-/3-storysteUS$85/110, Antonio Village section, p352 . the Quepossection, p343 aswelltheManuel to Manuel Antonio. order they’re traveling passed fromQuepos in somehotels. Hotels listed here are inthe rates canbeasmuch as40%lower season are amustforweekends. Low- reservations rates areseason provided and throughout, midrange andbudget optionsaswell.High- mostly top-endhotels, butthere are afew This stretch of winding,forested roadhas of level its high service and professionalism. recommended byalarge numberof readers for longer periodsof study.Thisinstitute comes significantdiscountsarethough available for atUS$845/995, start without/with homestay canbearranged. classes homestays Two-week Spanish immersion local atalllevels; classes Sleeping Mimo’s Hotel Mimo’s Plinio Hotel For more accommodationoptions,see Hotel Mono Azul MonoAzul Hotel

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) ternationally acclaimedhotel wasthearea’s est luxuryaccommodationintheManuel awards sinceitsinception,wasdesignedto del Mar, which haswonnumerousecotourism andattention. Arenas of level personal service on thepremises, which ensures anunmatched the grounds,there are nomore than40rooms Rica.’Costa Despite theextent andbreadth of to theprestigious ‘SmallDistinctive Hotels of of beingoneof hotels onlyeight belonging and resort complex,which hastheprivilege Antonio area isthisvisuallyarresting hotel .com; rfromUS$220-580; cornerofhug every the property. maculate gardensandworld-classviewsthat to SeeBeforeyouDie, was recently listed inthebook terrace Thishotel facingouttowardthesea. suite, whichpenthouse hasaJacuzzi onthe furniture –bigspenders should check outthe sizes are elegantlydecorated withhand-carved pristineroomsofline. Fifty-seven various ingly itsnatched upthebestviewof thecoast- first luxuryaccommodation,sounsurpris- rfromUS$205-440; mariposa.com; ing rain forest. infromthesurround- feelyou’ll never closed feature picture windowsandbalconies,so panels are toheatthewater. used Therooms still notimpressed, you canaccessaprivate beauty of your surroundings.And,ifyou’re andreflectthat youcanstroll through on the ofas wellaseries flawlessJapanese gardens Jacuzzi, bothoffering superbviewsout tosea, are alsohometoabeautifulinfinitypooland designschemes. Thegrounds Eastern-infused minimalistic, drawuponthe same though and studiosare air-conditioned andenclosed, rain forest andtheocean.Theothervillas breath away–theentire wallisopentothe privacy. Villa1(thelargest) willtake your give Makanda anairof intimacyandcomplete ofcomprised sixvillasandfive studios,which in aclassof itsown.Theentire hotel issolely as Manuel Antonio,Makanda alone stands pas studio/villainclbreakfast US$265/400; www.makanda.com; Jacuzzi. open-air coastline fromthelofty of heights yourprivate ing, especiallywhenyou’re downthe staring scape. In short,theoverall isbreathtak- effect incorporate thebeautyof thenatural land- o delMar Arenas LaMariposa Hotel ) Even ina destination asupscale Makanda bytheSea Makanda

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lonelyplanet.com ing, and will putthatextra springinyour aresandwiches reasonably pricedand fill- its coffee ispure, blackgold.Breakfast and obligatory stopon thewaytoparkas The sister cafétotheonein Queposisan Village section, p352 . section, p344 aswelltheManuel Antonio recommended inthe season. high are opentothepublic. Reservations taurants Many hotels mentioned earlierhave goodres- of the – bliss! mountain beach the552steps bytaking downtheside Eating &Drinking Café Milagro Café For more the Quepos eatingoptions,see

top picksare recommended simplyfortheiruniqueatmosphere. rants andbars. Withthatsaid,choosingthebestofisnoeasytask,thoughfollowing The QueposandManuelAntonioarea restau- ishometosomeofthecountry’smostspectacular QUINTESSENTIAL EATS & DRINKS

Sun Spot and carefree surrounding. this stretch ofroadboastsimilarviews,nowhere elsecanyouenjoytheminsuchalaidback enjoying viewsoftwopristinebaysand360°primitive jungle. Whileplentyofplacesalong seafood, andthenwashdownyourmealwithsomeofthebestsangríaincountrywhile hisreststopmake afavorite oflocalsandtravelers alike. Feast onabigburger orsomefresh trip astheviewhere won’tdisappoint.Ronny,thebilingualTico hardto owner,hasworked the –it’sworth roadopposite ManuelAntonioExperts drag, onthegood,well-signeddirt Ronny’s Place a beer,guacamoleandPacific sunset,andonevenings inthedryseasonthere islive music. main road,where itlooksasifhadcrash-landedintothesideofhill.It’sagreat spotfor itpiecebytoManuelAntonio.then proceededtocart Itnowsitsonthesideof to as‘Ollie’sFolly.’)In2000theenterprising ownersofElAvión purchaseditforUS$3000,and planeislovingly referred intheUSgovernment. andhiscohorts (The embroiled Oliver North never scandalthat madeitoutofitshangarinSanJosébecausetheensuingIran-Contra was originally purchasedbytheUSgovernment inthe‘80sforNicaraguanContras,butit from thebodyofa1954Fairchild C-123.Here iswhere thestorygetsinteresting –theplane o o you’re pinchingyourpennies,thelunchmenuisa gooddeal. richbountyoffresh advantageofCostaRica’s that takes seafoodandtropicalproduce–if lights upthesky,you’llstopcaringaboutprice. The foodislargely continentalcuisine for theviewatthisworld-classinstitution,thoughwhensundipsbelow horizonand in dailysunsetover thevastexpanseofPacific Ocean.As you’dimagine, you’re paying featured restaurant perchedtotake atManuelAntonio’slandmarkluxuryhotel isperfectly time totime. because youcan’taffordtoliedowninthelapofluxurydoesn’tmeansitonitfrom soak uptheatmosphere ofonethemostbeautifulhotels onthePacific coast.After all,just up deliciousseafood,sandwichesandsalads,thoughthereal reason you’re stoppingbyisto poolside restaurant here rain-forest foritsbreathtaking andoceanviews. whips The kitchen outtheexclusive little checking bytheSea,thoughtrustus–it’sworth to stayatMakanda Le Papillon El Avión

( (breakfast US$3-4,sandwichesUS$4-6) % QUEPOS&MANUEL Antonio ANTONIO ••QuepostoManuel 2777 0442; Makanda by the Sea; dishesUS$10-25) bytheSea; 2777 0442;Makanda

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7:30am-10pm) especially on Friday nights whenthereespecially onFridaynights are live bar, thisis apopularmusic anddrinkingspot, inthehotelinvolve orbeer aquietcocktail most nightlife inManuel Antoniotends to margarita. potent a heapingbowlof nachos andasmoothbut flair. After alongdayonthetrails, recoup over of withabitof Americanstandards Mexican years, currently though offers anexcellentmix Roja changes hasundergone several over the ing Manuel Antonio institution,theBarba 15; hit the trails. step, onceyou which need you’llcertainly Bambú Jam Restaurant BarbaRoja Restaurant h 4-10pm Mon,10am-10pmTue-Sun) OK, soyourbudgetwon’tallowyou Head800mwestfromthemain

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351 CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST COAST PACIFIC CENTRAL CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST guesthouses availableguesthouses forlong-term stays. rents bodyboards.Youcan inquire here about papers, beach suppliesand souvenirs; italso various languages, English-language news- center. maps,guidebooks,booksin Itsells asaninformalinformation Village, serves at thenorthernendof Manuel Antonio La BuenaNota Information some wildlife. marvelous you really canget andpersonal upclose with aroundyoutokeep their voicesdown, those truly are stunning.And,ifyoucanconvince theenvironsheremoment toyourself, though be getting increasingly tohave difficult aquiet ningly beautifulnationalparks.True,itmay Antonio, oneof thecountry’s moststun- the entrancetoParque NacionalManuel this tinyvillage withgoodreason –itmarks you’re infor a surprise. beaches frequented byhundreds of monkeys, so ifyou’re cominghere expectingdeserted have changed certainly inManuel Antonio, (Hechosarong enGuatemala). things Indeed, your triptotherainforest withatree-frog monkeys (Made inChina)andcommemorate gauntlet of roadsidevendors stuffed selling ears,mouse of course!). Runthetourist Village istothenationalpark(minus is toWaltDisneyWorldasManuel Antonio Here’s ananalogyforyou–Mainstreet USA MANUEL ANTONIOVILLAGE ( willcostaboutUS$5–call taxi passengers foraboutUS$0.50.Aprivate Manuel Antoniowillusuallypickupextra 10:25pm. at 7:30pm. ThelastbusdepartsManuel Antonio 6am and7:30pm,lessfrequently after 30minutes main roadandrunevery between Quepos (US$0.25)operate upanddownthe walksin so everyone the street. eye outforpedestrians.There’s noshoulder, narrow, steep andwindingroad–keep an private orrented car. Drive carefully onthis Many visitors inthisarea whostay arrive by Getting Around on the dance floor. bands andplentyof guestslookingtounwind 352 % Colectivo taxis between Queposand between Colectivo taxis Manuel between Buses Antonioand Of course, thetouristhordesdescendon Of course, 2777 0425/734) UPS&MNE NOI • Mne noi ilg QUEPOS &MANUEL AntonioVillage ANTONIO •• Manuel

( % . 2777 1002;[email protected]) Quepos Taxi ,

cruises arecruises alsoavailable. at Outingsstart and whale-watching sailing tours; starlight www.planetdolphin.com; CabinasPiscis) have kiosksnear the beach. ( legs,and your sea gen- the surf, to tle ankle-slappers here are perfect forgetting looking you’re If Espadilla. can berented allalongthebeach atPlaya beaches asthey’re outside the park. the topayuse fooled –youdonotneed your walkwelloryou’llget Don’tbe cutoff. hour before tide,sotime andafter thehigh of sunscreen). Thispointisinaccessible one and offering lashings nudesunbathing(use beach frequented primarily byyoungmen is headland (wearsandals) ern endof PlayaEspadilla,beyondarocky not attheothers inthearea. Atthefarwest- some lifeguards workingatthisbeach, though boxedtion see text, p278 ). There are however to bewaryof ripcurrents (formore informa- park, There’s agoodbeach neartheentranceto Sights &Activities and doin the area. Quepolandia, Look forafree copyof theEnglish-language there’s onlythree simplerules: location,loca- camping perpersonUS$3; Antonio section, p351 . section, p344 aswelltheQuepostoManuel Manuel Antonio section, p347 . Quepos section, p343 aswell theQueposto for planning isneeded week. Easter especially onweekends, andlengthyadvance are season, amustforthehigh reservations forexploringthenationalpark,though base The village of Manuel Antonioistheclosest Sleeping &Eating options. other ofdetails companies thatoffer and these are bothpopularinthisarea –see p343 for the trips through rain forest. ( snorkeling. TheTico-run US$65 forfourhours, includinglunch and % % For more accommodation options, see the For more accommodationoptions,see White-water kayaking raftingandsea Steve Woffordat Snorkeling gear, bodyboardsandkayaks Cabinas Ramirez Cabinas For more the Quepos eatingoptions,see 2777 4842) 2777 1108)

namely and rents horses, andcanorganize Playa Espadilla which details everything to see tosee whicheverything details Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels Monkey Surf Monkey

( % p Manuel Antonio Surf School AntonioSurf Manuel Planet Dolphin 2777 5044;rperperson US$10, Inthereal game, estate ) Marlboro HorseStables Marlboro , though you need youneed , though (

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ners US$6-10) what reminiscent of atrailerpark,andthe park. Ofcourse, theentire propertyissome- ofwithin easywalkingdistance thenational tion thatisliterally steps fromthebeach, and offers Ramirez Cabinas budget accommodation andlocation.Taking thisthemetoheart, lonelyplanet.com or fromthe Queposbusterminal, after which hotel ifyouare ontheroadtoflag them down willpick you upinfrontof5pm. These your (US$4, fourhours) at6am,9:30am,noonand departManuelBuses Antonio for SanJosé Getting There&Away much themosthappeningspotin the town. turnsintoadiscotheque that’sprettytaurant Onweekends, theres- however, next tothesea. block, butyoucan’tbeatthefeeling of eating bar isn’texactlythemostgourmetspot onthe further –the to hittrailswithoutagoodbreakfast, lookno If youfindyourself upearly,andcan’tbare Tico andinternational specialties. and serves orhouse-likerancho building) (smallhouse rotunda, AlMonoLocositsunderathatched night!). the yard (oracrossyourrooftop inthemiddleof view wildlife asitscurriesacrossyourfront including afullystocked kitchen, youcan which isjam-packed withmodernamenities, your fullyequippedhomeawayfromhome, edge of thenationalpark.Fromcomfortof furry visitors as–quite literally –you’re onthe haveof youmight yourfriends,though some bungalow canaccommodate youandseveral bungalows US$115-225; park before perk yourcaffeine in. sets and strollover totheentrancenational literally wake up,have yourmorningcoffee hard tobeatthepriceconsideringthatyoucan or two–roomshere are fairlybasic,butit’s spottopostupforanight ingly affordable US$15. But,theHotel Vela isalsoasurpris- Antonio area. Meals US$7and costbetween up someof thefreshestinManuel seafood ably famousbarandrestaurant, which serves partsforitsjustifi- primarily knowninthese .velabar.com; s/dUS$40/50; what doyouexpectfor10bucks a night! nearby discomaydiscourage though sleep, spot in the wee hoursspot inthewee of the morning. Restaurant Mar ySombra Mar Restaurant Al MonoLoco La Posada Hotel Vela Bar&Restaurant Hotel This seriously chilled-out beachThis seriously

( % gallo pinto

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( % 2777 0413;www wade through the Camaronera estuary, theCamaronera wade through you 100m forthesmallfee of US$1. tunism, there are boaters here totransport inanimpressiveHowever, display of oppor- depending onthetidesandseason. deep, which canbeanywhere fromankle tothigh you intothepark;see Tours p354. Here youcanhire naturalistguidestotake tourists complainabout beingrippedoff. of therotunda. Countyourchange asmany US$7; and thenwalkin.The an early-morningbustoManuel Antonio you leave yourcarathotel andtake row andcongested andit’ssuggested that theroadhereUS$3. However, isvery nar- ing lotneartheparkentrance;charge is Visitors mustleave theirvehicles inthepark- little furballsyou’ve seen. ever monkeys, which maybethegosh-darn cutest nas, howlers, capuchins, sloths andsquirrel of add tothemixigua- enough ahardsell, are unforgettable. And,asifthatwasn’t across thebaytopristineouter islands beaches androckyheadlands,theviews rain-forestwinds through backed tropical Thepark’sclearlymarkedadise. trailsystem you’ve diedandgonetoacoconut-filled par- time,it’seasytoconvinceyourself that right lutely stunning,andonagooddayatthe of the camera-clicking hordes. share your idyllic spotof withtherest sand tourist destinations,you’re goingtohave to America’stop asoneofOf course, Central nationalpark. the country’ssecond-smallest day sizeof 1625hectares in2000,itremains Manuel Antoniowasenlarged toitspresent- sort andbeachside condominiums.Although opment project –namelyan all-inclusive re- and razedtomake roomforacrucialdevel- (with minutes tospare) frombeingbulldozed it clared anationalparkin1972,preserving Parque NacionalManuel Antoniowasde- PARQUE NACIONALMANUEL ANTONIO terminal inQuepos, see p345 . other thanSanJoséalsoleave fromthemain tickets fromthedriver. fordestinations Buses quently packed andyouwillnotbeable tobuy at theQueposbusterminal. Thisbusisfre- there are nostops.Buy tickets wellinadvance Orientation &Information To reach theentrance,you’llhave to With that said, ManuelWith thatsaid, Antonioisabso- h 7am-4pm Tue-Sun) isafew meters south park entrance

(admission

353 CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST COAST PACIFIC CENTRAL CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST te day. the lent. Pack apicniclunch ifyou’re spending ing water, repel- sunprotection andinsect end). Make sure youcarryplentyof drink- itcanalsobedryfordays on(although less wet,soyoushould beprepared forrain isnot entirelyThe dryseason dry,merely 80°F andaverage annualrainfall is3875mm. Antonio. Manuel ing. There isa refreshment onPlaya stand portunities forsnorkeling orrestful sunbath- they’re allpristine,andprovide ampleop- about. Regardless,people maybetalking confusing tryingtofigure outwhich beach the first beach inthepark,soitcanbeabit begin countingatEspadillaSur,which is ‘fifthbeach.’Playa Playita Somepeople Playa PuertoEscondido‘fourthbeach’ and beach,’ PlayaManuel Antonio‘thirdbeach,’ ‘first beach,’ PlayaEspadillaSur‘second people callPlayaEspadilla(outsidethepark) behind. remained tomakein theevening sure thatnoonehas is nocampingandguardswillcomearound andarefreshmentpicnic tables There stand. available, andthere are toilets,beach showers, Playa Manuel Antonio. Drinking water is tion 354 The ranger and station The average dailytemperature is27°C/ The beaches are often numbered –most travel are date notalwaysimmediately asopportunities available. US$350 perpersonmonthtocover ofyourdesired roomand board.Inquire monthsahead troops. monkey Volunteerstracking mustbeabletodevote atleastonemonth.The costis valuable effort.) owners inthearea. (Ascomoti’s this website hasalistofallthelocalbusinessessupporting and selected sites forreforestation financiallybybusiness issupported andthewholeproject for otherwildlife toenjoy.ScientistsattheUniversidad have NacionaldeCostaRica mapped not onlyhastheeffect habitat,butalsoprovides ofextending themonkeys’ aprotected area two locations. Already more than10,000trees have beenplanted along8kmoftheNaranjo. This Pacific coast.Toachieve this,theyare reforesting the waterway theRíoNaranjo,akey linking andtheParqueprotection zoneinthenortheast NacionalManuelAntonio,whichliesonthe With itsexpressive eyesandluxuriantcoat,the SAVING THESQUIRRELMONKEY .ascomoti.com) delMonoTití, oftheTiti para laConservación AssociationfortheConservation Monkey; jeopardy duetooverdevelopment. Toremedy thisproblem,thefolksat area, oneoftheirlastremaining habitats. thearea Unfortunately, isinconstantenvironmental Roughly 1500ofthesecharminganimalsaredanger ofextinction. leftintheManuelAntonio fourmonkey is oneofthemostbeautifulCostaRica’s species. itisalsoin Unfortunately, center UPS&MNE NOI • Pru ainlMne Atno QUEPOS &MANUEL ANTONIO ••Parque NacionalManuel Antonio The organization iscreating abiological corridorbetweenthehillyCerro-Nara biological If youwantto volunteer, forindividualsinterested Ascomoti islooking inplantingtrees or Mp p349; (Map have measures beguntotake toprevent decline. further % 2777 0644) national park isjustbefore

informa- mono tití from touragencies orhotels. Thisistoprevent have IDbadges, official andrecognized guides who sociation governed bytheparkservice), the parkare members of Aguila (alocalas- two-hour tour. Theonlyguidesallowedin Hiring aguidecostsUS$20perperson fora Tours in thecenter. Atrail leadsaroundthe penin- widens intoarocky peninsula,withaforest find asmallmangrove area. The isthmus you walkalongPlaya EspadillaSur,youwill insula beyond,which was once anisland.If material themainlandand thepen- between formed bytheaccumulationof sedimentary This isthmusiscalleda Playas EspadillaSurandManuel Antonio. foresttrail through toanisthmus separating walk. Westof followanobvious thestation, center; watch forbirdsandmonkeys asyou find theparkranger andinformation station minute hike to After thepark entrance,it’sabouta30- HIKING guarantees wildlife sightings. Visitors report thathiringaguidevirtually or English-speakingguidescanberequested.) trained andmultilingual.(French-, German-, a good-qualityguide–Aguila guidesare well visitors fromgetting rippedoffandtoensure Sights &Activities (Central Americansquirrel monkey) Playa EspadillaSur Ascomoti % tombolo 2224 5703;www lonelyplanet.com , where you’ll (Asociación and was tee islands. these pelicans are thatneston amongtheseabirds part of thenationalpark.Brownboobiesand andform rocky isletsthatare birdreserves good viewsof thePacific Oceanandvarious sula to lonelyplanet.com out prior consent fromthe out priorconsent park service. hikingisnotpermitted with- trails. Off-trail are somequietcorners neartheendsof the marked andheavily traversed, there though of hikers onthistrail to 45. reportedlyvista. Rangers limitthenumber beyond–astunning Serrucho and Punta overlookingon abluff PuertoEscondido cut off. Theuppertrailclimbstoa ered tides,sobecareful byhigh nottoget beach canbemore orlesscompletely cov- the quietPlayaPuertoEscondido. This pery duringthewetmonths andleadsto andslip- divides. Thelowertrailissteep and safer thanthe Espadilla beaches. and ispopularforswimming.It’sprotected isanattractivebeach itself oneof white sand receding, they’dbetrappedbythewall.)The they triedtoswimoutafter thetidestarted tide,butwhen would swiminduringhigh Indians tofunctionasa werebelieve arranged bypre-Columbian of asemicircle rocks thatarchaeologists see of thebeach, duringthelowtide,youcan isthmus tothisbeach. Atthewestern end peninsula altogether andhike acrossthe to The trailsinManuel Antonioare well PlayaManuel Antonio,thetrailBeyond You cancontinuearoundthepeninsula cute, andyoumaythinkthatyou’re doingthemafavor,butyou’re not.Really. hear thattourists(andTicos are alike) feeding theirleft-over themonkeys Cheetos. Sure, they’re We atLonelyPlanetrespect theenvironment,soyoucanimagine howirate webecomewhen we DON’T FEEDTHEMONKEYS! DAMMIT WE’RESERIOUS! soul, call (and sometimesphotos) ofviolatorsare publishedinthelocalpress. anirresponsible Toreport has becomesobad inManuelAntoniothataninitiative inwhichthenames hasbeen started andif youseesomeoneelsedoingso,be responsiblekeys, andsay something. The problem This listcouldgoonandon.Pleasepeople,we’re onourhandsandknees. Don’tfeed themon- Playa Manuel Antonio Playa Manuel Increased exposure withhumansfacilitates illegalpoaching. Bananasare NOT theirpreferred food,andcancause seriousdigestive problems. Irregular feeding leadstoaggressive behaviorandcreates adangerousdependency. are Monkeys susceptibletobacteria transmitted fromhumanhands. Here are afew reasons why: Punta Catedral % 2777 2592. QUEPOS&MANUEL ANTONIO ••Parque NacionalManuel Antonio , fromwhere there are , oryoucanavoid the turtle trap turtle . (Turtles lookout

Mne Antonio. Manuel along themainaccessroadandaroundPlaya visitors –theycanbeencountered anywhere feed andinteract of withinashortdistance are very topeople,andnormallytroops used line upatthegate. White-faced capuchins animalsalonghere, asyou even lem seeing main accessroad,youshouldhave noprob- and800onweekends the week and holidays. limiting thenumberof visitors to600during has reacted byclosingtheparkonMondayand tourist handouts.Toitscredit, theparkservice toscavengeaway or–worse still–taught for park’s wildlife asanimalsare frequently driven hastaken itstollonthe Increased touristtraffic WILDLIFE-WATCHING see Tours, p343 . line kickstobehad.Formore information, the country,there are someadrena- certainly of world-class runshere asinotherpartsof level youshouldn’t expectthesame Although kayakingcenter.white-water raftingandsea Manuel Antonioissomethingof anemerging While notaspopularTurrialba( p159 ), WHITE-WATER RAFTING&KAYAKING tree nearthe park entrance. prominently displayedbesideexamplesof this the skintoitch andburn.Warningsignsare exuded bythebarkandleaves istoxic, causing that looklike littlecrab apples,andthesap mane mancinella)– Even visitors though are funneledalongthe Watch outforthe it haspoisonousfruits manzanillo tree (Hippo-

355 CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST COAST PACIFIC CENTRAL CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST 356 Backpackers Resort ( Resort Backpackers p236 ), Monteverde ( Backpackers p180 HostelCosta Rican Networkaccomodations: Hostel) andTamarindo Pangea ( ( Backpackers p273 p95 ). ), Hostel Toruma( p115 ), Arenal every thatsteps single backpacker footthroughthefrontdoor. be. maybemotivated byprofit,butforme,it’saboutsharingmypride in beingTico Others with ThisRican. isthewayourbusinesshasalways been,thewayitis,andthatwillalways What isthemostchallenging ofthehostel part business? all share the samewants,needsanddesires. you workinaninternational ahostel, environmentlike it’sadailyaffirmationto learnthatwe fromallaroundtheworld,andknowingthatatend,we arepackers allhuman beings. When ofbeinginthehostelWhat isthebestpart business? interact withthepeoplearoundyou. thegreatIn CostaRica, socialequalizer isbeer,soallyou have todoisgrababottleandjust try isthatithasayouthfulspirit,soyoudon’thave tobe18or 21 tohave agoodtimehere. What isthebestwayfortravelers toexperience CostaRica? about havingfun! though peoplehere are extremely satisfiedwiththeirlives, whichiswhy weare sopassionate for whatwehave. The reality isthatwewillnever beoneoftheworld’slargest economies, me, however, thiscountrysouniqueisthatweare whatmakes honestpeoplewhoworkhard of theworld’smostvirgin rainforest, andthatwehaven’t hadastandingarmyfordecades. To pride andlove forourcountry.Forinstance,everyone knowsthatourcountry ishometosome trary, there are thatgive somanyuniquethingsaboutCostaRica usTicos astrongsenseof people, soyouwouldthinkthatitbehardforustohave astrongidentity.Onthecon- What makesCostaRicasounique? that allofusstrive touphold. for Ticos. Althoughitdirectly translates as‘pure life,’ in thiscountry,travelers are greeted withthewords quick totreat Youknow,almostimmediately friendsasiftheywere uponarriving our own kin. ment forwhatitis. Ticos are alsoextremely familyorientated, whichmeansthatweare really too muchaboutthefuture, andinstead prefer tohave agreat timeandsimplyenjoythemo- to callourselves, Ticos. Ithinkoneofthemostinfectious qualitiesofTicos isthatwedon’tthink allyouneedtodoisspendsometimehangingRican, orasweprefer outwithusCostaRicans, What doesitmeantobeCostaRican? businesses inthiscountrycatering exclusively fromaroundtheworld. tobackpackers of CostaRica. Today,weare thatweare proudofthefact oneofthefew CostaRican–owned twin brotherAdrian,wedecidedtocreate aplacewhere travelers couldexperience thereal side oflifea suitanddealingwithpaperswasn’tthekind thatIwanted. So,togetherwithmyidentical finishing lawschoolandlandingahigh-powered jobwiththegovernment, Ilearnedthatwearing trouble, soIthoughtthatshouldprobablylearnhowtoproperlydefend myself!Anyway,after honest truthisthatIalwaysdreamed ofbecomingalawyer. Iusedtogetintoalotof As akid How didyouendupowningbackpackerhostels? and abowlofnachos,Andres shared histhoughtsonbeingCostaRican. Imperiallager hauntsthroughoutthecountry.Over anice-cold raising thebarforbackpacker Andres Poveda, Hostel thefounderofCostaRican Network, hasspentthelastseveral years ANDRES POVEDA ONCOSTA RICANPRIDE UPS&MNE NOI QUEPOS &MANUEL ANTONIO Costa Rica issuch a tinycountrywithonlyfew CostaRica million IfyouwanttounderstandwhatitmeansbeCosta ‘pura vida,’ That’s agoodstory,especiallysincethe pura vida The answeris definitely meetingback- Keeping itreal, Keeping itCosta keeping The great thing aboutthiscoun- whichreally isacatch-allphrase really isaphilosophyofliving lonelyplanet.com tured atManuel sighting Antonio–it’s across variouspaths, andboththree-toed the monkey bridges thatwere erected by road toQuepos–watch forthemcrossing where alongthe insidetheparkandeven virtuallyany- capuchins, theycanbeseen monkeys and,like soonafter sunrise lonelyplanet.com brown pelicans, magnificent frigate birds, tling-ducks, yellow-crowned night-herons, shrikes, trogons,black-bellied Baird’s whis- the fiery-billed aracaris,black-hooded ant- regional endemicstolookoutforinclude ent speciesof hummingbirds.Amongthe andatleast15 differ-aquits, bluedacnises palm tanagers, great-tailed grackles,banan- usual suspectsincludetheblue-gray and the birdlistis respectable nevertheless. The birders’serious trailof Rica,though Costa near the lagoon. leaves alongtheedges of thetrails,especially camouflaged basilisk,listen fortherustleof hind PlayaEspadillaSur. Tospotthewell- Manuel Antonioandinthevegetation be- iguanas thatbaskalongthebeach atPlaya hard tomissthelarge ctenosaurs andgreen dolphins. rough-toothed killers and include orcas(killerwhales),false regular migrationroutes. Otherpossibilities well ashumpback whales passingbyontheir dolphins,as tropical spotted andbottlenose the early evening. the fringes of Manuel AntonioVillage in often reappear inbeachside trees andon tered duringamorning’swalk,andthey atroopcouldbeencoun- luck, however, the forest wellbefore openingtime. With the earlymorning,theyusuallymeltinto neartheparkentranceincasionally seen ing thancapuchins, theyare though oc- adorable monkeysThese are more retir- squirrel monkey, are farlesspredictable. Americanprimate, namelytheCentral America’srarest animalandCentral star all that much. ting sloths astheytend nottomove around park. Guidesare extremely helpfulinspot- sloths areand two-toed alsocommoninthe local several groups. conservation You’ll probably alsohearmantledhowler Manuel Antonioisnotusuallyonthe Big lizardsare alsosomethingof afea- themovementsHowever, of thepark’s Agoutis darting andcoatiscanbeseen Offshore, keep your eyes peeled forpan- Offshore, keep youreyespeeled QUEPOSTOUVITA Lodge Safari ••Rafiki the towns of Silencio andSantoDomingo, the RíoSavegre and leads 7kminland,past Savegre. Fromhere, a4WDdirt road parallels 15km southof Queposinthesmalltownof restaurant. rancho-style you’ll eatwellalongsideotherguests inthe ters onthe And of course, SouthAfricansare mas- identified), hikingandwhite-water rafting. watching (more than350specieshave been ample opportunityforhorse riding,bird- a spring-fed poolwithawaterslide and ing creepy-crawlies inyourbed.There’s hear therainforest withoutactuallyhav- screened and in,which allowsyoutosee private porch and electricity.Allunitsare equipped withprivate bathroom,hotwater, have constructed nineluxurytents onstilts The owners, whoare fromSouthAfrica, fari –allwithalittlebitof Africanflavor. of ahotel withthesplendorof ajunglesa- 5yr free; .com; s/d/steincl3mealsUS$168/287/402,childunder Lodge Safari nexttotheRíoSavegre,spot right the Nestled intotherainforest, withaprime sides of the Costanera. kilometers of liningthe endlessplantations immediately obviousafter thefew dozen African palmoilindustry,which shouldbe also hometoagreat bulkof Rica’s Costa beaches andgreat surfspots.Theregion is have yourpickof anynumberof deserted and ifyou’re anintrepid traveler, youcan get Ricaof afeel fortheCosta 10years ago, this stretch of coastlineisagreat placeto ing ontomore far-flung locales.Infact, shouldn’tdeter youfrompush- this certainly Pacific gringotrailslowlytapers off,though South of Quepos,thewell-troddenCentral UVITA TO QUEPOS Village –formore information, see p353 . Manuel AntonioliesinManuel Antonio The entranceandexittoParque Nacional Getting There&Away herons and ringed kingfishers. brown boobies, spotted sandpipers, green RAFIKI SAFARILODGE The entrancetothelodge islocated about ps

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Rafiki 357 CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST COAST PACIFIC CENTRAL CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST Palmas B&B specialties. ing uptheobligatory traditionalGerman on anopen-air bar andrestaurant serv- of almondandmangotrees, andcentered attractively landscapedwith shadygardens and rusticfurnishings. Theentire complexis bytheirbeamingwhite-washedlighted walls consists of asmallbatch of bungalows high- .com; s/d/tr/qUS$70/80/90/100; del Pacífico istheGerman-run the Costanera for youasit’stough to find. best toasksomeonepointoutthetrailhead eters south of RióHatillo it’s Viejo,though ming pools.Thefallsare located afew kilom- Waterfalls boxedriptides, see text, p278 ). ous transientrips(formore informationon having someof thecountry’smostdanger- especially sincethebeach isinfamousfor ing inMatapalo isnotfortheinexperienced, up isabitof a mystery. waves, thefactthatMatapalo hasn’tblown accommodation andsomewicked, wicked breaks, asmattering of reasonably priced central Pacific coast.Withtworiver mouth yet least-knownsurfdestinationsontheentire let thesecret out, Matapalo isoneof thebest, wedon’twanttobetheoneswho Although MATAPALO transportation. your Maproad (see p349 ), andcanarrange allof office ontheQuepostoManuel Antonio thelodgeprivate transportation, hasan to thelodge. ifyoudon’thave However, 358 Just downtheroad onthebeach sideis Just southof Matapalo are the Of course, it’sworthpointingoutthatsurf- The first hotel you’ll see afterThe first turningoff hotel you’llsee overdevelopment ofthecoastlineslowsdownsouthQuepos. the government topave consequenceisthatthe theroad,thoughsomewhatfortunate but mosttourbuseswouldn’tdare proceed.Isn’tfeudalism great? south.Sure, couldcare backpackers Antonio andpointsfurther lessaboutacoupleofpotholes, regional government, andthelastthingtheywantistouristsdividingtheirtimebetweenManuel and realize upagain.Curious? Sowere thatthepavingstarts we. never give thismuchthought,thoughtheylater scratchtheirheadswhentheyreach Dominical About 4kmsouthofQuepos,thepavingonCostaneraSursuddenlystops. Mosttravelers SO WHAT’S THEDEALWITHROAD? UPST VT • Mtpl QUEPOS TOUVITA ••Matapalo Of course,therealOf losersinthissadstate ofaffairsare thelocalTicos whoperennially beg The reason (are youready forthisone?)isthatstretch ofroadisownedbytheQuepos , which are famousfortheirswim-

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pa % 2787 Tico Tico , ) admission US$6,eachsubsequentdayUS$2) wildlife refuge of Dominical Located onthePacific onthe roadtoQuepos,this coast3kmnortheast REFUGE HACIENDA BARÚNATIONALWILDLIFE lonelyplanet.com Barú’s naturalistguidescomefromlocalcom- Barú’s forest Hacienda andlowlandbeach habitats. campingtoursnight inbothtropicalrain watching tours, hikingtours, andtwoover- canopy activities,Hacienda offers Barú bird- of‘the Flight theToucan.’ Inadditiontothe forest floor,tree climbingandaziplinecalled different ways–aplatform36mabove the experience therain-forest canopyinthree tours (US$20toUS$60)onoffer. Youcan of tropical rain forest. there tofurthertheconservation willbeused soguestsarestatus, assured thatmoneyspent funds withwhich itsprotected tomaintain this wildlife refuge withitsonlysourceof circumference. Ecologicaltourismprovides of trees, someof themover 8.5m(27.5ft)in amphibians, 87butterflies and158species clude 351birds,69mammals,94reptiles and identifiedonHaciendabeen in- These Barú. accounts forthemultitudeof speciesthathave in thePath of theTapir BiologicalCorridor pastures. and ary forests, primaryforests, tree plantations wetlands, selectively logged forests, second- beaches, river banks,mangrove estuaries, there includepristine that maybeobserved since 1976.Therange of tropicalhabitats protectedland thathasbeen fromhunting than 330hectares of private owned andstate Path of the Tapir.’ of Itiscomprised more link inamajor biologicalcorridorcalled‘the This diversity of plusitskey habitat position There isanimpressive numberof guided is alistofroad-tested combatstrategies forbattlingthebloodsuckers. evidence surroundingeffective mosquito-bite prevention iscircumstantialatbest,thefollowing oftraveling inthetropics.quitoes isoneofthemostannoying parts Althoughthescientific Whether youcallthemskeeters, mozzies ormidges,everyone canagree thatfending offmos- BATTLING THEBLOODSUCKERS

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stops outsidethehaciendaentrance. The d-ohns alike. do-nothings the Pacific coastforsurfers, backpackers and is oneof themostlaidbackdestinationson coming thenextJacó. As aresult, Dominical are determined tokeep thetownfrombe- concerned resident expatsalike, allof whom ment isbeingkept incheck bylocalsand Dominical isdefinitely gringo-fied, develop- isn’tout.Although surf’s upandthespliff for longer thantheyintended, solongasthe the kindof placewhere travelers get stuck reputation forreefer madness, Dominical is With monster waves, achilled vibeanda toilets. clean sundriesareuseful available, andthere are Groceries, fishinggear,andother tidetables the onlyoneforagoodwayinanydirection. 50m northof theHacienda Lodge, Barú is US$5. about hacienda office. fromDominicalcosts Ataxi bridge,you attheRíoBarú 2kmfromthe San Isidro–Dominical–Uvita buswilldrop of Costa tasty Rican dishes. avariety rant (mealsUS$6toUS$10)serves Thered-tile roofed,Beach. open-airrestau- two-bedroom cabinslocated 350mfromBarú US$10, children under10yrfree) den anda butterfly garden. tower, 3kmof pristinebeach, anorchid gar- trails,abird-watching marked, self-guided by themselves, there are 7kmof well-kept and all of their lives. munities andhave lived neartherainforest DOMINICAL The Quepos–Dominical–SanIsidrobus The For peoplewhoprefer toexplore therefuge If you’re driving, the El Ceibo gas station, gasstation, If you’re driving,theElCeibo Hacienda BarúLodge consistsof sixclean, (d US$60,additionalperson

359 CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST COAST PACIFIC CENTRAL CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST that are patrolled by lifeguards. structions of posted signsandswimatbeaches flags (which markriptides),followthein- here (don’tsmoke andswim!).Watch forred very strongandmanypeoplehave drowned Waves, currents andriptidesinDominicalare Dangers &Annoyances Police Dominical Internet upstairs. service dollars andtraveler’s checks. Ithasapostal &GrillwillexchangeClemente Bar bothUS parallel roadalong the beach. mentionedare found,anda of theservices thevillage,main roadthrough where many bridge.mediately pasttheRíoBarú There’s a Dominical; theentrancetovillage isim- is fronted by forests not fast food. and potholed,themajority of thebeach the few roadsaroundthevillage are stilldusty Pacific remains coast.Development low-key, fate suffered byotherbeaches onthecentral accesshassparedDifficult Dominicalfromthe Orientation &Information surf andstoned on pot. getting balancebetween stoked on difficult things astheycome,andtrytostrike the Dominical, it’sbesttojustslowdown,take whilein the ecotourismbandwagon.Indeed, of international touristshadyettojumponto Rica,’namelyatimewhenthelegions Costa 360 Sat) Checkemailhere, abovetheSanClementeBar & Grill. There are nobanking facilities,butSan bypasses highway The mainCostanera Dominical recalls tomindthemystical‘old white houseonthe left-hand side. meters up themountainandlookfora first entrancetoEscaleras afew hundred requested. Togettothecinema,follow the bulbsisdonation topayfortheprojector are shownevery Fridayat6pm,andasmall Seriously, thisguyloves hismovies! Films equipmentandsurround sound.jection pro- coastline andfeatures state-of-the-art top withpanoramicviewsofjungle-fronted flicks. locals andtravelers towatchhisfavorite Toby inthenearbytownofEscalerasinvites Every Fridaynight,aresident expatnamed MOVIES INTHEJUNGLE UPST VT • Dmncl QUEPOS TOUVITA ••Dominical ( % Cinema Escaleras 2787 0011) (perhrUS$2; isbuiltonahill- h 9:30am-7pm Mon- also arrange tours to the falls. available. AccommodationsinDominicalcan ground withdressing roomsandtoiletsis hours andcostUS$40perperson. Acamp- family. Tours leave at8am,take sixtoseven swimming andcountrymealswiththelocal can bearranged, includingtheguidedride, swimming hole. Withadvancenotice,atour ride totwowaterfalls thatplunge intoadeep center, butyoucanhire horses foraguided of bothprimaryand serve forest.secondary waterfalls aprotected thatcascadethrough re- tourist center ishometoaseries of wonderful Rican–familyownedandoperatedThis Costa 3187; www.ecotourism.co.cr/nauyacawaterfalls/index.html). Turístico Nauyaca Centro Cataratas thatleadsto anentrancetotheright you’ll see ward SanIsidroandtravel forabout10km, junction forSanIsidro–ifyouturnleftto- Just northof theturnoffforDominicalis Sights days. these aroundtownharder drugsgetting passed anyone, butkeep inmindthatthere are much hurt Alittlepotnever get atnight. rough ing drugproblem, andsomeof thebars can Dominical isattracting,there isaburgeon- you’re thenearby beach doing.With thatsaid, get trashedouthere ifyoudon’tknowwhat a bitof board experience,asyoucanreally are ingeneral variable,though itpaystohave surferssetting theworldover. Conditions here point andbeach breaks, which attractjet- sick Dominical owesitsfametoseriously youwon’t promise be disappointed. bonus, stopbyonFridayforfeeding time–we ters asthedeadlyfer-de-lance. Foranadded hometosuch infamouscrit- the vipersection, ourfavoritedart frogs.Ofcourse, is section from alligators andcrocodilestoturtles tiles. Theanimalparkishometoeverything Rica’smostfamousrep-face towithCosta creatures, thendon’tmiss thechance toget just can’tget of prehistoric enough self these who love slickandslimyreptiles, oryouyour- town of Platanillo. Ifyou’re traveling withkids also located 10kmoutsideof Dominical inthe reptiles.com; admissionadult/childUS$10/1; named Activities Another worthwhilediversion istheaptly There’s no vehicle access tothistourist of theheavy-duty partycrowdBecause Parque Reptilandia

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h 2787 0198,2771 9am-4:30pm) , www.dominical.biz/expeditions) Camp the reader-recommended on who stillhastrainingwheels their board. of Domincalitoisabitmore foranyone tame Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels of a varietyof different accommodation op- Dominical spot,which isactually comprised pa dorms forafew extradollars a night. finicky shoestringers canbeddownin Spartan cold showers andashare kitchen, whilemore take advantage of basicamenities,including ables intheprovided lockers. can Campers extremely diligent aboutlockingupyourvalu- youshouldstill be secure intown,though beach, thiscampgroundisoneof themost US$5, rfromUS$10; Antorchas Camping IN TOWN village of Escaleras ( p362 ). dation optionsinthenearbymountaintop be asmuch as 30%to 40% lower. rates could butlow-season are season, forhigh on theoutskirtsof thetown.The rates given ful of midrange andtop-endplaces are located area’s budget accommodation,whileahand- Dominical ishometothemajority of the Sleeping longer periods of study. lessons are available, asare discountsfor Private atUS$315,withouthomestay. starting Spanish- runs one-week language programs & Canada800-237730;www.adventurespanishschool.com) SpanishSchool Adventure Courses interests. your and thetours canbecustomizedtomeet nearBoruca the Guaymíindigenous reserve canalsoorganizevillage. tripsto The staff at details Get ( p416 ) andParque NacionalMarino Ballena. fordaytripstoParquebase NacionalCorcovado camps. surfing lessons to10-day andtours aswell asseven- and Karla Butler,and offers avarietyof surf this campisrunbyexperiencedsurfers Jason Located onasideroadleadingtothebeach, experience underyourbeltisbyheadingto Cabinas SanCelemete Cabinas Note that there are additional accommo- Dominical hasemerged assomethingof a Of course, onegreat waytoget abitmore

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( % 2787 0158;bedUS$10-30; Green Iguana Surf IguanaSurf Green 2787 0023,intheUSA QUEPOSTOUVITA ••Dominical

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r US$85-110,steUS$135-175; rant, as well as the daily yoga classes inher rant, aswell asthedailyyoga classes organic produce onoffer atSabina’s restau- hectares of fruittrees. Guests rave aboutthe to immaculate cabinsspread among several Dominical area, thistranquil spotishome fromwhich toexplorefor aquietbase the cated fanstheworldover. Ifyou’re looking ing Polish womanwhohaslegionsof dedi- this hiddengem isrunbySabina, acharm- most loved B&Bs ontheentire Pacific Coast, .cabinasalma.com; rUS$60; AlmadeHatilloB&B Albergue AROUND DOMINICAL a few of your friends. others, andcaneasilyaccommodate youand the sizeof theroomassomeare larger than a fitnesscenter andhealthspa. Inquire about onsite amenities, includingbars, restaurants, days of idlelaziness,andthere are somegreat are palmfringed, which makes forrelaxing grounds surroundingthewaterfall-fed pool unchecked the hedonism.Withthatsaid, phasis isonlow-key to luxuryasopposed theem- accommodation intown,though proper resort complexisthemostupscale and amellow bar.cocktail plunge pool,aEuropean-influencedrestaurant of anincentive here, tostay there’s a even the tropics.And,asifallof thiswasn’tenough and theair-con willmake youforget you’re in thewater and comfortable, ishotandsteamy Theorthopedicmattressesprice tag. are thick surprisingly swish roomsdespite themodest hotel spot,which sceneisthisItalian-run offers is breakfasts. best uponeof thetown’s the otherhanditserves canget buton taurant abitnoisyatnight, ing thecheap Thedownstairs res- pricetag. patios andterraces –aniceoptionconsider- hot-water showers aswellhammock-strung varying shapes allfeature andsizes,though this budget hotel 20-oddroomsof contains con US$30/40; Dominical Backpackers Hostel. cabinas orsimpledormroomsattheadjacent lers fromeithershinywooden canchoose morethe surf,though budget conscioustrave- private thatare beach houses juststeps from of thepropertyaretions. Thehighlights the Hotel DiuWak Hotel Domilocos Hotel Tortilla Flats Tortilla ) The newest addition to the Dominical ThenewestadditiontotheDominical pa

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361 CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST COAST PACIFIC CENTRAL CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST in townisconsistently packed withhungry classic Dominicalwatering holecomplete te world. the to get tanked withtravelers fromaround it’smoreWith thatsaid, popularasaplace up bigbreakfasts andTex-Mex dishes. with broken surfboards onthewallsserves blissful combination indeed. checking are beer out,asrawfish and tap a is asmallsushi barthat’sdefinitely worth Nextdoor boarding aroundthepooltables. people congregate here andskate- forbeer beans) packsquite the caloric punch. surfing, which isgoodas all, youcanworkupquite anappetite while Rican favorites forafew bucksaplate. After surfers snatching upcheap Costa andtasty Soda Nanyoa Eating &Drinking form inthe hotel lobby. when localtheater groupsanddancers per- thehotel nights, turnsintoatheatercertain include anopen-airbarandinfinitypool.On place inthefestive communalareas, which therealplaces tounwind,though actiontakes cal-themed roomsare superblycomfortable tive muralsandrockinlays.The12tropi- decorated fes- withhardwoods,tilemosaics, chic andstylish American-ownedhotel is the beach about1kmsouthof town,this www.rocaverde.net; rUS$85; is located about6kmnorth of town. outdoorstudio.Zen-inducing AlmadeHatillo 362 Hotel y Restaurante RocaVerde yRestaurante Hotel San Clemente Bar&Grill San Clemente Thrusters Bar Thrusters Bank, the artwork willincorporate the‘naturalriches’ofCostaRica.Bank, theartwork appear onthefacesofnewbills. However, accordingtothetreasury director oftheCentral session! wallet after aserioussurf switching fromcottonfibertoplastic. After all,there’s nothingworsethantryingtodryoutyour tohave variablelengths,andthere’s in2010,billswillstart even talkofto thecash?Starting equal distributionofmoney. colones bills,theCentral Bankishopingthatthelarger denominationbillswillresult inamore 20,000 and50,000colones. Sinceawhopping70%ofthecashcurrently circulatingisin10,000 andaskanyoneatthecountry’sCentral Bank. go ahead no denyingthatpricesare ontherise. Then ourwordforit,just again,ifyoudon’t wanttotake ofchange,there’s withapocketful Although youcansometimesgetafillingmealinCostaRica IT MUSTBETHEMONEY UPST VT • Eclrs QUEPOS TOUVITA ••Escaleras At thetimeofwriting,anationwidecontest thedesignsthatwill wasunderway toselect course,ifyou’reOf goingtorolloutsomenewcurrency, thenwhynotaddabitofflash willrolloutsomeseriouslybigbills,namelyindenominationsof in2010,CostaRica Starting

(dishes US$2-5)

(Cabinas Thrusters) pas Thecheapest eatery gallo pinto

(dishes US$3-8) Thelocalparty Overlooking Overlooking

) ( % (riceand 2787 0036; This ‘world-music beach kitchen’ barandItalian 1:45pm, 4pm and 5pm. open-air courtyardunderneathagiant,old tropical flavors. upinan Dishes are served innovative cuisineemphasizingfresh fishand spotdishesLimónese-inspired up Caribbean as thebestrestaurant inDominical,this amount of which is live. features adifferent genre of music,agood and vegan fare. of here night theweek Each bysomedeliciousvegetarianis highlighted up aneclecticculinaryoffering that serves crashing surf. Of course, ifyouwant tomakecrashing surf. Ofcourse, it viewsofits sweeping thecoastlineand the isfamedfor that branches theCostanera, off around asteep andnarrowdirtloop-road Escaleras, asmallcommunityscattered road. main people andcanbehailedintown from the canaccommodateis US$55.Cars uptofive ride toSanIsidrocostsUS$25and Quepos Taxis toUvita costaroundUS$15,whilethe TAXI Uvita Quepos Palmar road in Dominical. alongthemain pick-upanddrop-off Buses BUS Getting There&Away tree. ceiba ESCALERAS Restaurant Wachaca Restaurant Maracutú US$1,onehour,4:30am,10:30am,noonand 6:15pm. US$2.50,2½hours,4:30amand10:30am. US$3,three hours,7:30am,8am,10:30am, (dishes US$5-10)

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(dishes US$6-12) The self-proclaimed Theself-proclaimed Regarded lers primarilybrave theroadtoeitherhave a Aside(staircase). fromthescenicviews,trave- kidding whentheynamedtheplace thelocalsweren’t tosay, ficult roads.Needless gate oneof thecountry’smostnotoriouslydif- up here, you’re a4WDtonavi- goingtoneed lonelyplanet.com course, ifyou’re notonefor cooking, there up tosixandhave fullystocked kitchen. Of family-friendly bungalowsaccommodate about 200mabove whilelarger level, sea cabins are perched onaknife-edge ridge in showinggueststheirsliceof Four paradise. North American–British couplewhodelight US$50/75; Edge 1.2km southof thefirst entranceis and weekly monthly rates. here long-term, inquire about discounted ting complete. Ifyou’re planning onstaying awash withpanoramicviewsmake the set- andawraparoundbalcony maid service a palatialswimmingpool.Twice-weekly ings, tiledfloors, colonialfurnishings and bedroom villaaccented bycathedralceil- US$240/280/320; villafor4/6/8people279 0516;www.villa-escaleras.com; road, a small fee. Woody willpickyouupinDominicalfor pies!) available. Ifyoudon’thave a4WD, there are home-cooked tasty meals(and snackofan evening andchips, beer and includebreakfastcommodate six.Rates or ac- spacetocomfortably room andenough private cabin withafullkitchen andliving The groundsare alsohometoatwo-floored rooms withprivate, solar-heated shower. fourshiny-wood ocean views)thatcontains (surrounded byabalconyproviding superb isinarevampedThe lodge farmhouse itself owned bylong-timeresident WoodyDyer. vistalodge.com; r/cabinUS$55/75; Ranch along themainroadis signed. poorly are ontheleft-handsideof theroadand is4.5kmpastthefirst. Both and thesecond of theSanIsidroturnoff before Dominical, Jungle’ boxed(see text, p360 ). listed following,ortocatch a‘Movie inthe relaxing, retreat mountain inanyof the places Located onadifferent accessroadthat’s About another1kmuptheEscaleras One of thefirst placesyou’llcometo The first entrancetoEscalerasis4kmsouth

( %

( Villa Escaleras Villa % pis 2531 8000;www.pacificedge.com;cabin/bungalow 3888 0155,intheUSA800-9094469;www.bella pas QUEPOSTOUVITA ••Uvita ) . Theowners are aworldly ( % 8823 0509,intheUSA773- ) isaspaciousfour- p Bellavista Lodge& , aremote farm ) escaleras Pacific

is home to some truly spectacular beachesis home to sometrulyspectacular Parque NacionalMarina ( Ballena p365 ), which asaperfect forexploring Uvita base serves Sights &Activities off by rising water. before headingoutsothatyoudon’tget cut Uvita,walk outalongPunta butasklocally is inthecenter of town.Atlowtideyoucan over theRíoUvita entrance andthesecond The first entranceisjustsouthof thebridge allel dirtroadsthatare 500mapart. roughly Uvita (thesouthernendof the beach). beach is calledPlayaUvita and PlayaBahía locally asUvita, whilethearea nexttothe The area isreferred themainhighway off to Orientation &Information unabated, atleastforafew more years. the small-towncharm of Uvita willcontinue extremely slow, which isahopefulsignthat thus farthepaceof hasbeen development Jacó.Dominical, Queposandeven However, the townalongsimilarlinesasdeveloping popping upover town,andthere of istalk ers andspeculators. Real-estate offices are aninfluxof develop- Surhasseen Costanera Brunca coast,andtherecent paving of the beaches. wilderness whales aswellitsvirtuallyabandoned famous foritsmigratingpodsof humpback Marino apristinemarinereserve Ballena, townforvisitstoParquethe base Nacional as Uvitaboom. Withthatsaid, serve does beach townslooked like before thetourist should give youanideaof Rican whatCosta of and straggle farms,houses Dominical isreally nothingmore thanaloose Of course, thislittlehamletjust17kmsouthof far-flung peninsula. corner,namelytheOsa lation center before entering thecountry’s tral Pacific coast, Uvita isthe lastmajor popu- As themostsoutherlydestinationoncen- UVITA cost more than US$10. fromDominicalshouldn’t in theJungle,ataxi advanced notice. Ifyou’re comingforMovies with previously canarrange apick-upservice anyofcle, though theaccommodationslisted in international cuisine. is awonderfulonsite restaurant specializing The beach area isreached twopar- through Unfortunately, thesecret isoutabout the byprivate vehi-Escaleras isbestaccessed sodas, which

363 CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST COAST PACIFIC CENTRAL CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST family, whohave lived inthearea formore isonthefarmofprivate theDuarte reserve 4pm) Tico-run outfitraisingbutterflies forexport hotel.com; tent US$5,hammockUS$6, dmUS$10,treehouse (p365). Ballena also check outParque NacionalMarino places. Formore accommodation options, of where thehighway, you’llfindthefollowing The mainentrancetoUvita leadsinland,east Sleeping &Eating sizes. various commodate 10peopleindoubleroomsof house Merced atLa can alsostay ina1940s tours Uvita toPunta and birdingwalks.You you cantake guidednature hikes, horseback and mangroves liningtheRíoMorete. Here, forestsranch) with primaryandsecondary national wildlife refuge (andformercattle NationalWildlifeRefuge Merced walks (departingat5am and 2pm). guided hikes, tours horse-riding andbirding hectare propertyisrainforest andthere are than three decades.Two-thirdsof the150- OroVerde Biológica Parque NacionalMarino to Ballena) (look over yourshoulder forgreat viewsof road (4WDonly)thatleads3.5kmupthehill dirt totheleftonarough a signedturnoff includes a guided tour. butterflies are attheirmostactive. Admission as themorpho. Goearlyinthemorningwhen to get up-close-and-personal withbreeds such and education,thisisagoodopportunity on offer here. disappointed withthemildsurfingconditions heading toPavones ( p439 beabit ), youmight come fromDominical,oryou’re planningon Colonia swells at theresouth, though are occasionallysome push ontomore extreme destinationsfurther stealing your beach chair. sun withouthaving toworryabout someone plenty of spacetosprawloutandsoakupthe perhaps thisisagoodthingasyou’llhave tourists thattheyshould attract.Thenagain, anywherethat don’tsee nearthenumberof 364 A few kilometers before Uvita, you’llsee Surfers thearea passingthrough tend to Toucan Hotel & Hostel &Hostel Toucan Hotel Opposite theturnoff toOroVerde is The onPlayaUvita (justfollowthesigns)isa UPST VT • Uia QUEPOS TOUVITA ••Uvita

(r perpersonincl3mealsUS$60) to the south. However, ifyou’ve tothesouth.However, just Jardín de Mariposas Jardín deMariposas PlayaHermosa

( % 2743 8072,88438833). tothenorthand ( %

(admission US$4; 2743 8140;www.tucan , which canac- , a506-hectare h Reserva Reserva This farm- Playa 8am- La p here forpeaceof searching mindandsound tive lifestylers, whotypicallyspendweeks retreat attractslegionsof dedicated alterna- this organic permaculture farmandholistic About 2kminlandanduphillfromUvita, perpersonUS$8,rUS$14-16; dm US$10,shared loft be ties youmight interested in. range horse-ridingtours andanyotheractivi- friendly andaccommodatingfamilycanar- thisisagoodchoice.Rican hospitality, The for abitof localflavor andauthenticCosta a beautifulgrove of laurels. Ifyou’re looking clean, polished-woodcabinsthatare in set locallyrunspotwhichpleasant, haseight you wanttodefer yourfuture travel plans. tobetreatedthat needs withrespect unless mock movie theatre, creation aspectacular clutches of escapetheevil never theham- the beach downtheroad,mostguests isright rooms andthelofty treehouse. Even though tents andhammockstodormitories,private commodations tosuitallbudgets, fromsimple years, theToucanishometoavarietyof ac- made somemajor changes here inthelastfew reason. familythathas Runbyadelightful most popularhostel inUvita –andwithgood land of inUvita, themainhighway thisisthe US$12, dUS$25-30; meal for a few bucks. Ofcourse, most visitors inUvitaCostanera where youcanget agood a few European standards. its ThaiandIndonesian delicacies,aswell restaurant here recommended ishighly for ers. Drawingontheowners’ heritages, the featuring huge, walk-insolar-powered show- collection of rustic,stone-walledbungalows spotishometo alovelycouple, thissecluded andrunbya Dutch-Indonesian the gasstation 1km inlandona4WDaccessroadacross from rica.com/balcon/uvita.html; bungalowUS$62; will costabout US$3fromthe area.highway of here producegrownontheproperty.Ataxi and raw-food specialtiesthattake advantage vegetarian home toarestaurant thatserves Verdeworking onthefarm.Cascada isalso ifyou’ve atnight spentanytimeheredeeply andyou’llsleep yoga andquietmeditation, there isampleoutdoorcommunalspacefor totheelements,though somewhat exposed body. Accommodationisextremely basicand Cascada Verde Cascada Cabinas LosLaureles Cabinas There are anumberof small Balcón deUvita ) About 200muptheroadyou’llfindthis

( pai % Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels

( % 2743 8191;www.cascadaverde.org; 2743 8034;www.exploringcosta

( % ) 2743 8235;s/dUS$18/22; Located 100min- sodas ps onthe About ) p )

Getting There&Away sit atthecounter andask what’s cooking. cated across thestreet fromHotel Tucan–just Soda Salem to theUvita area are happytokeep eatingat Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels protection effort launched by local businesses launched by localbusinesses protection effort of Marine theBallena National Park), ajoint Asoparque (Association fortheDevelopment ited numberof visitors. isrunby The station gate willoften charge of lessbecause thelim- While there’s admission,theguardsat aset extension of theseaside Uvita.in PlayaBahía, the constructionof the highway. coastal heavily from run-off damaged bysediment coral reefs neartheshore, they were though mangrove occurwithin thepark.There are rocky headlands.Allsixkindsof Rican Costa beaches, mangrove swamps,estuariesand park includes13kmof androcky sandy Uvita,From Punta headingsoutheast,the Orientation &Information surf. the breaching orafew dolphinsglidingthrough of catchjust might aglimpse ahumpback with alittleluckandbitof patience,you Rica. And, that isnotalwayspossibleinCosta enjoy aquietdayatthebeach –something The lackof touristcrowdsmeans thatyoucan for beach lovers andwildlife watchers alike. can beanextremely rewarding destination radar screens of travelers, mostcoastal this birdsandseveral sea terrestrial reptiles. turtles,nottomentioncoloniesofnesting sea ing humpbackwhales,podsof dolphinsand overstated, especiallysinceitprotects migrat- ofmodest, theimportance thisarea cannotbe the confinesof themarineparkare fairly rock reefs surroundingIsla Although Ballena. This stunnerof a PARQUE NACIONALMARINOBALLENA for the latter. ride–inquiretaxi atyouraccommodation from Uvita eitherbyprivate vehicle oraquick Parque NacionalMarino isaccessed Ballena San José San IsidrodeElGeneral Palmar inthemain stops ontheCostanera village. departfromthetwoshelteredMost buses bus The off-the- isessentially Ballena Although US$2,1½hours,4:45amand10:30am. ranger station US$6,sixhours,5am,6amand2pm.

(casados US$3-5) marine park marine (

% US$2,1½hours,6am and 2pm. 2743 8236;admissionUS$3) , asmallcantinalo- protects coraland QUEPOSTOUVITA ••Parque Ballena NacionalMarino is fers scubatripsinthe national park. the river mouthatthesouthernendof valuables lyingaroundinside your tent. the campsite isnotsecure, sodo notleave any showers butnoelectricity. Keep inmindthat 300m fromtheentrance, which hastoiletsand The parkishome toafree campgroundjust Sleeping &Eating nate from Antarctica. inthespring origi- waters, seen whilethose inthefallmigrate fromCalifornia whales seen of thepark– humpbacksthatpassthrough mate. There are actuallytwodifferent groups places intheworldwhere humpbackwhales RicanwatersCosta maybeoneof onlyafew whales migrate here, it’spossiblethat though to October andDecember to April. thenationalparkfromAugust pass through tions are thepodsof humpbackwhalesthat attrac- thestar However, nightly. in thesand ridley andhawksbillturtlesburytheireggs andOctober, botholivea peakinSeptember of lizards.And,fromMay toNovember with dolphinsandavariety bottle-nosed seabirds, of different animalspecies,includingnesting the beaches are frequently visited byanumber theparkgetsAlthough few humanvisitors, WILDLIFE-WATCHING Colonia. Playa .com; PlayaVentanas) Center Mystic Dive overnightto stay on the island. snorkeling youare trip,though notallowed hired forUS$30perperson foratwo-hour canbe toIslaBallena Boats fromPlayaBahía UvitaPunta andsnorkel (bestatlowtide). birding. good have anumberof quietopportunitiesfor ing. And,thelackof visitors meansyou’ll perfect forpeacefulswimmingandsunbath- rock. Allof themare and virtuallydeserted combination of andpolished goldensand The beaches atMarino are Ballena astunning Sights &Activities biodegradable soap when bathing. and don’tlitter, cookwithdriftwoodanduse sobeconsiderate services, hard atinstalling in conjunctionwithMinae. Ithasworked There isalsosomedecentsurfingnear If you’re lookingtoget underthewater, Scientists are unsure astowhyhumpback youcanwalkoutonto From thestation, isa PADI operationthatof- (

% 2788 8636;www.mysticdivecenter

365 CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST COAST PACIFIC CENTRAL CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST ery vt (p363). Uvita nearby here, there are otheroptionsin alsoseveral fresh and seafood organic produce. chicken,style foodthatincludeslocallyraised anddineonruralTico-head tothefarmhouse national park.Ifyouworkupanappetite, trails, andsnorkeling andswimmingin the hiking andbirdingontheonsite networkof their timeonboattripstothenationalpark, gueststendtories, though tospendmostof but functionalwoodenroomsanddormi- organic farm.Accommodationisinsimple by asmallstream, andcentered onaworking powered energy provided bythehydroelectric this beachside ecolodge, which isadmirably fast US$107/134; Finca Tres Hermanas;dminclthree mealsUS$73,s/dwithbreak- by of great served beer German the stein. the openocean.Andof course, there’s plenty viewsofhilltop poolandtake inthesweeping by forest, youcanalwaysascenttothe though draped beds.Thelushgroundsare hemmed bamboo furniture andromantic mosquito-net handful of pleasingroomswithwoodaccents, inn,hometoa ing tothisquaintGerman-run asigneddirtroadlead- of theroad,you’llsee US$75/85; standard/superior 366 Finca Bavaria In additiontotheaccommodationslisted La Cusinga La Cusinga UPST VT • Pru ainlMrn aln QUEPOS TOUVITA ••Parque Ballena NacionalMarino

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