vol. 1/2019

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L • A W C I O T H A L E www.ljubljananjam.si [email protected] Foodie Guide Text: Iva Gruden, Nina Purger, Pia Kaplan Foreword: Iva Gruden Proof reading: Tom Norman, Iva Gruden Photography: Iva Gruden, Nina Purger, Pia Kaplan, Mankica Kranjec Design: Edin Biščić – MONU Issue date: May 2019 Place of issue: Ljubljana, , EU Form: E-booklet, PDF Copyright: Iva Gruden, s.p. Price: 6 eur / free for LjubljanaYum food tours customers URL: http://www.ljubljananjam.si/slovenia-food-blog/ljubljana-foodie-guide vol. 1/2019 Ljubljana foodie guide

Want to know how to talk and dine like a local foodie? Get to know more about Ljubljana’s hidden (culinary) gems, what to do on a rainy day, which (craft) beer to order, where to get best meat, specialty coffee, vegan delights, burgers and other local secrets in our Ljubljana foodie guide - with all venues enriched with clickable links for your convenience. Find useful info on activities in Ljubljana, important information on Slovenia and exclusive insights on Ljubljana local life from amazing interviews with Slovenian culinary connoisseurs and food journalists.

DOBER TEK IN NA ZDRAVJE!

EDITOR’S NOTE...... 04 LJUBLJANA DRINK & DINE SCENE BREAKDOWN...... 07 FOODIE CATEGORIES EXPLAINED...... 13 VENUES...... 19 INTERVIEWS...... 35 USEFUL LINKS...... 41 EDITOR’S NOTE

Dear fellow foodie,

As an avid traveller, I always liked leav- And I’m not talking about (just) in the ing Ljubljana, but also coming back. Af- sense of ethnic world cuisine. It was also ter soaking in all the foreign cuisine that every day lunch offer that was lacking was nowhere to be found in my city, it some innovation, inspiration, creativi- was nice to come back to the old and ty. A bland mix of traditional Slovenian familiar, at least for a while. That was up cuisine (mostly narrowed down to sau- until 5 years ago or so - when Ljubljana sage and other meat products, potato, finally opened up its gastronomic bor- grains, doughs, salads, fish and such ders and limitations. dishes), Italian, and maybe “Mexican”

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(as in tortillas) prevailed, and there was foodie, because we know your time not a lot room for something different. here is limited and we wish you to make How come things are looking com- the most of it. We’ve also included im- pletely different now? portant dates when some restaurants might be closed or have a special menu True, Instagram and other social me- prepared - it always helps to be updated dia - game changers also in the culinary about our customs and holidays (which world - were not as present back then, we take very seriously). You’ll also find but it was also people behind the tab- more in-depth glimpse into what’s letops that were, so it seemed, stuck going on in the city with interviews of in the very same routine. As well as us, prominent local gastronomic personas, eaters. Happy to serve and eat same and other hints to explore the yummy thing all over again, without desiring or side of the Alps with your tastebuds demanding something more. Not to say - also outside of the strict city centre it was bad quality - quite the contrary, I district, which does have the highest believe our food here was always highly percentage of listed venues, but it’s valued. But just deeply rooted in what on the outside that Ljubljana life really we knew for ages. happens.

Fast forward to 2019, it is anything like We hope you will enjoy our little gift this. Vegan, gluten-free, lactose-free, for you for making the best decision aged steaks, LCHF lunches, wine & and booking a food tour with us. We craftbeer tastings, sourdough work- hope you will fall in love with Ljubljana’s shops, specialty coffee cuppings, chef cuisine like we did. And the best part? battles, signature dishes, restaurant I don’t have to travel anymore but the weeks, pop-up dinners, street food world has travelled to me. (Just kidding markets and more abound, and we - I will never stop travelling.) And that couldn’t be happier - or perhaps also makes it not only nice to return, but to confused. That’s why we‘ve created stay in Ljubljana. this mini guide to help you maneuver through the now-overwhelming Lju- Iva Gruden bljana cuisine, because even though LjubljanaYum founder & manager we’re a small city, there’s tons of tasty events going on. Intertwined with our dear old habits.

In this booklet you will therefore find the places we’ve picked for you, dear

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LJUBLJANA DRINK & DINE SCENE BREAKDOWN LJUBLJANA DRINK & DINE SCENE BREAKDOWN

Culinary survival guide themselves. You can also get it straight from the machine, slightly • Pick a table, wait to be served, and softer (tekoči sladoled). wave your fingers when you want the bill. We have table service with • Lunch is the big thing here, hence rare exceptions. that many lunch menus. It consists of soup, main dish, salad and dessert. • Value added tax (VAT) is already You can’t avoid salad. It will be served included in the bill. It is either 9,5 with every lunch menu. Yes we eat (food) or 22 % (service and luxury all that during our lunch break. items like alcohol and coffee). • In summertime, we love to drink • Tipping is not mandatory for small radler – shandy: a mix of lemonade expenses but it is always appreciated. and lager beer. They come in So if you were satisfied with the different flavours, such as grapefruit service, leave some cash and make and blood orange. Winelovers opt everyone happy. for spritz (špricer): white wine with soda. Younger generations • Coffee (kava) is considered love bambus (red wine + coke) or espresso but there is now lots of mishmash (red wine + fanta). True specialty coffee options (Chemex, story. cold brew etc). Milk is always 3,6% fat or veggie alternative (rice, soy, • Tea (čaj) for us is herbal: mint, almond, oat). Also, no free refill. chamomile, rosehip, mountain There is take away coffee, but we’re flowers, elderflower … If you want not big on it as in North America. black/green tea, ask for „real“ tea For some reason, the one at gas (pravi čaj). stations is phenomenal! Pro tip: try barley coffee, (ječmenova kava), a • No hard liquor is for sale before fantastic decaf alternative. 10am, and after 9pm in shops (in bars yes). • Ice coffee (ledena kava) means espresso with whipped cream and • Students enjoy special coupons for gelato. Don’t expect americano over certain (well, almost all) restaurants. ice. So don’t be surprised if you are offered a separate student menu • Our ice cream (sladoled) is if you look like one. (NB: They still gelato and mostly done by cafes keep asking us, 30-somethings, if we’re students … )

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• Be prepared. Fish can be served with head.

• Mulled wine comes as red and white.

• At farmers markets, there is also foreign (mainly Italian) produce, so make sure you ask the vendor if they haven’t written so. It’s understood: Slovenia is too small to produce Thank you = hvala everything. You’re welcome / Please = prosim Do you serve traditional Slovenian • Open alcohol is OK. So go find your food? = Ali ponujate tradicionalne favourite bench and sip a glass. Just slovenske jedi? keep it classy. Table for two, please. = Mizo za dva, prosim. • Smoking indoors is not allowed since Sorry, where is the toilet? = oprostite, 2007. Anywhere outside (patios, kje je wc? parks) is OK. A latte, please. = Kavo z mlekom, prosim. Could you bring me the wine list, Talk like a local foodie please? = Mi lahko prinesete vinsko karto, prosim? Water = voda Is there any Slovenian craftbeer on Coffee / espresso = kava / espresso offer? = Ali ponujate slovensko butično Tea = čaj pivo? Wine (White / Red) = vino (belo / Is this dish vegetarian? = Je ta jed rdeče) vegetarijanska? Beer (Light / Dark) = pivo (svetlo / I don’t eat gluten. = Ne jem glutena. temno) I’m allergic to milk and dairy Starter = predjed products. = Alergičen / Alergična sem Main course = glavna jed na mleko in mlečne izdelke. Dessert = sladica Enjoy your meal! = Dober tek! Soup = juha Yum, it’s really delicious! = Mmm, res Pasta = testenine je dobro! Risotto = rižota Receipt, please! = Račun, prosim! Salad = solata It’s all good, keep the change. = Je že Drinks = pijača v redu, razliko kar obdržite.

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Important holidays Foodie dates to in Slovenia (when you can expect remember certain restaurants to be closed):

• martinovo (St. Martin’s day): • January 1st & 2nd – New Year’s day November 11 and both Saturdays (alternative: hike and enjoy the food before and after this date. Mark: up in the mountains, ice skating, St. Martin’s goose, red cabbage and cinema) mlinci (special type of pasta). • February 8th – France Prešeren • pust (carnival): 40 days before culture day (alternative: hike or visit Easter, in February / March. Mark: all the galleries and museums which donuts. are free this day) • velika noč (Easter): Easter Monday, • April 27th – Day of uprising against in March / April. Mark: ham in occupation (alternative: head over dough, horseradish, hard boiled egg, to the coast) potica. • May 1st & 2nd – Labour day • božič (Christmas): December 25th. (alternative: hike or visit one of Mark: potica. many spas with thermal water) • beer festival: Beer and burger • June 25th – Independence day (spring & fall) + others (alternative: hike! - Yys we know, • wine festivals: Ljubljana wine route we’re repeating ourselves, or have (3 times per year) fun in public outdoor pool) • ekopraznik (Organic farmers • August 15th – Assumption day market festival): first or second (alternative: head over to the coast weekend in September or again up in the mountains, visit • teden restavracij (Restaurant natural thermal water Grič at Klevež) week): twice a year, in March and • October 31st – Reformation day October. Caution: many restaurants (alternative: go to the woods and are full these weeks so book ahead! enjoy colourful nature) • Odprta kuhna (Open kitchen): • November 1st - All saints day street food festival every non-rainy (alternative: have yourself a big Friday between March & October portion of street roasted chestnuts, pamper yourself in a spa) • December 25th & 26th – Christmas & Independence and unity day (alternative: ice skating, stroll through the center with mulled wine or thick hot chocolate)

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Eating / opening times:

• Snack / Lunch: 11am - 3pm • Atlantis Water Park • Dinner: 6-9 pm • Sunny studio • Coffee: anytime • Farmers market: 8am - 2pm POOL: • Odprta kuhna (March - October • Friday street food market): 9am - • Športna hiša Ilirija 9pm or later • Tivoli • Kodeljevo If you compare us to • Atlantis Water Park other Europeans, we … • In summer also: Laguna, Kolezija

• Don’t have a siesta like Italians and CINEMA: Spanish so things ARE open in the • Komuna • Kinoteka afternoon as well. • Dvor • Kolosej • Are not so big on eating breakfasts or brunches out however this is ACTIVITIES: increasing in the last years. • Watermelon Ljubljana by bike – • Drink coffee with milk also in the best bike tours in Ljubljana, led by afternoon. Tevž • Eat dinner early so you can start • Bananaway SUP adventures– planning your reservation at around explore Slovenia with a stand-up 7pm. paddleboard, team of adrenalin • Have a thing called “malica” (snack) junkies awaits you which is similar to the main dish • Ljubljana Guides– licensed tour from lunch menu. Usually it’s a one guides who want to share the pot dish that includes some meat. beauty of Ljubljana with you, we recommend their music tour and hikes around Ljubljana Other useful info on • Alternative Ljubljana – check out Ljubljana: the quirky, avant-pop and wtf?! side of Ljubljana SPA: • Running Ljubljana – join Miha on a • Sense Wellness Grand hotel Union running tour through the city centre • Saruna Wellness & Fitness club of Ljubljana (InterContinental hotel) • Sense Wellness Austria Trend

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Our friends around Slovenia

• Winestronaut – explore Vipava • Slotrips - dedicated to all outdoor wine region on a unique cellar-to- fans who’d like to discover our cellar expedition among grape vines country by themselves (or their • Faladur – Vipava wine and craft amazing guides) beer tastings with food pairings + • Wandering Helene – explore visit the neighbor brewery Pelicon Slovenia through the eyes of • Adele in Slovenia – English expat American blogger living in Slovenia blogger with loads of useful info on + our office mate trips and hikes • Slocally – your local guide in Soča valley, enjoy staying their Herbal Houses

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Self-catering our true Slovenian comfort food. More so, though, on the edges of the city so If you’re air bnb-ing, tired of eating out feel free to roam over there too. or just plain can’t leave your cooking skills to rest, we got you covered too. Breakfast & brunch Apart from the farmers markets there are quite a few grocery shops around. If there is any biggest step forward in Only a few of them downtown, though Ljubljana, it is the offer of breakfast (like a Mercator in Stritarjeva street), & brunch places now. In 2016 almost but take a few steps to other districts noone was offering anything beyond (like Trnovo) and you already have su- classical ham & cheese toast and crois- permarkets there (it might again be sant to start your day, now venues with Mercator). granola, eggs Benedict, French toast etc is mushrooming. Ok, for our stand- Sunday no fun day ... ards. Point is: you won’t starve until lunch like you used to! On Sundays, many restaurants are closed as we all head over to Bled, the We mean business coast, or just generally somewhere out of Ljubljana (usually hiking). There are In Ljubljana for work and in need to close however still some pretty sweet spots a deal? No problem, let’s find you a ta- open (just check their respective open- ble. We’ve selected some spots that are ing times) so we’ve picked them for you cosy yet secluded enough to enable you to enjoy Sunday Ljubljana in a yummy some privacy. style nevertheless - and you can always do so with our food tour. Drinks

For the love of SLOVEni- You’re never too far away from a bar an- an food ywhere in Ljubljana, but there are some that will pour you more than just regular Generally all restaurants and bars in the beer & wine oldies goldies (Union and city centre have been changed in the Laško, or haložan and janževec). Quite a past 5 years. Period. There is a new gen- few places now offer a great selection of eration now dwelling downtown and our anything alcoholic, as well as a fabulous eating habits have changed, predomi- atmosphere to get you into the mood nantly towards embracing world fusion for that Friday night party time … In- cuisine trends (and caricature of “tra- troducing Daktari, Magda, Pritličje, LP ditional” Slovenian cuisine). However, bar, anything on Petkovšek river side. there are still some spots that cater for

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Meat Mala pražarna, Dobnik, and our fa- vorite Črno zrno. We’ve evolved past fried steaks Wien- na style and now cater for meat lovers Beer time from all over the world. The word you’ll hear most often is aged angus beef but After long domination of local and world we got some more up our sleeves - famous big corporations’ lagers, the era dare for a horse steak maybe? Or you of fine local craft beer has finally arrived can stick just to your favorite spare ribs. a few years ago. In Ljubljana you’ll have Let your juices flow atČompa , Sorbara the feeling that all we drink are local steak house or Kralj žara. craft beer labels - and it’s true! Some venues even took a bold move and de- Burgermania cided not to offer the most popular la- ger brands at all but stay true only to True, with a few year’s lag but it’s defi- smaller brands. Look for breweries like nitely very here: it’s all about burger Human Fish, Pelicon, Reservoir dogs, (and craftbeer) now. Own aged beef, Mali grad, Green Gold Brewing, Hops- own bun recipes, own secret sauces … brew, Hopster, Lobik, Vizir, Barut, We won’t say no to anything. People Omnivar, Loo-bla-nah and ultimately love Pop’s place, Lars & Sven, Kavar- Bevog (though brewed in Austria but na Tiskarna, but our hearts go to Hood wholeheartedly supported by Slovenian burger. Watch out for the new trends team). Drink them at Sir Williams pub, (at least for us) coming up: bahn mi, Lajbah, Premier or Petkovšek. gourmet pizza and hot dogs! Plants, please! Special(ty) coffee Although it might seem we’re very We take coffee very seriously. It’s a meat oriented, no despair: there is pl(a) ritual which requires us to sit down, enty to eat for veg(etaria)ns too. The have a chat and connect with peo- increase has been insane in the last ple. But ... there’s coffee, and then few years, so for example just walking there’s coffee. Many places now go around Nazorjeva and Slovenska street beyond regular espresso-based drink makes you feel you’re in plant-based and will make you crave for more caf- food heaven. While some of the es- feine. Think: single origin arabica, hand tablishments are devoted to such food picked, locally roasted, served with love exclusively, others will happily modify and explanation. Check out Čokl (fair your order so it fits your preferences. trade obsessed), STOW, Moderna, Look for Barbarella, Taman, Gaudi, Ve-

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ganika, and now even Hood burger in whiskey. Check out Single bled (whis- Nazorjeva street has vegan / vegetarian key), Že v redu, Primož (craftbeer), patties! Pivoljub (craftbeer), Za popen’t (craft- beer), Dvorni bar (wine), Dekanter Kids time (wine), Balthazar (wine), Štorija (wine), E-vino (wine). So you’re visiting with your children – welcome! Many places will already have Go beyond downtown something prepared for them (crayons, blackboards etc), but here’s a few places Ljubljana is much more than just the that will let your youngsters enjoy even city centre district, so why limit yourself more while you nibble & sip. only to those (albeit fabulous) couple of blocks? Do not be afraid to venture out, Wine maybe sit on a random bus number (like one of our interviewees suggests) and Long for its wines Slovenia has been exit a couple of stations of you city cen- known and we serve them in pretty tre comfort zone. We’ve picked some much every single bar, restaurant and noteworthy spots also outside of the pe- cafe. But some establishments delve destrian zone that really, really show you into the subject more and bring you how and locals dine and enjoy a cuppa. more flavors that go beyond malvazija, Mark: in Vič district gostilna (typical Slo- refošk, haložan, janževec and cabernet venian inn) Žabar, sourdough bakery Art sauvignon. There are three wine grow- Bread, restaurant Origano, Serbian res- ing regions in Slovenia as well as the taurant Čad, burger place Hood burger, oldest vine in the world so they deserve sourdough pizzeria & organic wines bar to be tested out more in-depth. Along Trappa; in Bežigrad district burger place with some nice snacks. Check out Šuk- Kavarna Tiskarna; in Šiška district bar lje, Movia, Dvorni bar. Kino Šiška, sports bar & every Wednes- day hot dog haven Lepa žoga; in greater Specialty drink shops Jarše district wine bar E-vino, restaurant Cubo, steak house Argentino, gostilna If you hadn’t made the mistake by Pri Stričku. A bit out of Ljubljana you coming to Slovenia only with your hand can indulge in restaurants like Skaručna, luggage, or have the advantage of trav- Grič. elling by train, bus or car, you won’t re- gret visiting these venues that offer a great selection of fine Slovenian wines, craftbeer, liqueurs, spirits and, yes, also

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Daily bread Romantic spots

You know that captivating smell of fresh Ah, we’re at love - where else does food bread in the morning? We do too. That’s lead us to anyway? Dimmed lights, pos- why we like to visit these special bak- sible candles in the evening, fab views … eries in town. But beware, you won’t There’s a bunch of places to fall in love be alone so get there early while hot (with). supplies still last. We love to get them fresh at bakeries Osem and Art bread, Patio Zrno do zrna, or at the indoor farmers market. Ljubljana is blessed with out- door-friendly weather (and residents For the sweettooth who appreciate it) pretty much whole year. From March to late October, as We gotta take the best from the Aus- long as it’s sunny, and then in Decem- tro-Hungarian empire, right? That’s ber too, patios are our number one why our tradition of making great cakes pastime activity. Some offer great views and other desserts goes way back. You’ll while others are just tucked away and find rich chocolate and fruit cakes, ap- offer more privacy - find your favorite ple struedel bliss, doughnuts for carni- outside nook. val, gelato overdose in the summer, and much more. Don’t diet at Zvezda, Pri Balkan vodnjaku, Domača peka, or at the in- door farmers market. If there is any ethnic cuisine to recom- mend the most in Ljubljana, it is defi- Tea nitely from our ex Yugoslavia brothers: Serbian and Bosnian cuisine. Predom- Tea for us is mandatory, especially in inantly characterised by grilled minced winter. And by tea we usually mean meat in many shapes and flavours herbal infusions: mint, chamomile, (remember Bosnians don’t use pork) rosehip, hibiscus, mixed alpine flow- there’s lots for vegetarians too - loads ers, linden, elderflower … and more and of bell peppers, beans and of course more green, black and white tea. While their amazing bread. Get your Balkan you can get a few herbal & “real” tea melos on at Čad, Das is Valter, Deset classics everywhere, a few places truly v pol. specialise into it. Such as Gallus, Cha.

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Live music High end

Sure, there’s no lack of festivals over You might be low key but we’ve got here, but what about those casual Fri- enough high-end restaurants to pre- day night drinks with a band playing vent you from staying so. We’re sure in the background? Well, we got you you’ve already been to / are going to covered for that too. Frequently these Ana Roš’s Hiša Franko so you might as venues will brighten up your visit with well check out Ljubljana’s finest venus live music: Jazz Paradise club, Prulček, such as JB (named after amazing chef Jazz club Sv. Florijan, Čin čin. For Janez Bratovž), Strelec (where chef more happenings, we recommend vis- Igor Jagodic will blow you away), Manna iting websites like Kam zvečer? or app (perhaps more for the sea food lovers), Tonight. and Maxim (where all the fancy VIPS & MPs regularly dine too).

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LjubljanaYum team’s Top 5 picks Pia’s top 5:

1. For vegans: Barbarella 2. For beer lovers: Lajbah 3. For drinks with your friends: Pritličje 4. For pizza lovers: Verace 5. For best falafel: Abi Falafel Nina’s top 5:

1. For best cake: Zvezda 2. For best burger: Johnny at Kavarna Tiskarna 3. For best hot chocolate: Pri vodnjaku 4. For best Italian food: 5-6kg 5. For best lunch place: Tabar Iva’s top 5:

1. For baby friendly cafe: Mestno igrišče 2. For comfort food cravings: Res Dobr 3. For business lunch: Robba 4. For parents’ night out: Luda (for dinner) and LP bar (for drinks) 5. For best masala chai: Daktari

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Legend:

wine bread and/or cakes open Sundays and pastries beer (usually craft) Slovenian food bar coffee (usually specialty) live music kids friendly vegetarian and/or vegan romantic spot lunch breakfast and/ great patio or brunch business

SHOPS, BAKERIES & TAKE-AWAYS

Bakery Osem Best sourdough fix in city centre, is your spot. A cute little shop from owned by baker Andrej who lives liter- usually overlooked tourist destination ally in the building around the corner of in the South-West - Dolenjska region - it. Get there early as the bread (usual- provides a whole range of edible gems. ly reserved beforehand by locals) runs Most of it you can try before buying out by 3pm or so. Look out for their which is an extra plus, and opposite weekly specials like cinnamon buns and there’s a few more ultimate Slovene seasonal favorites like panetone. Beside gourmet souvenir shops to explore: bread, it’s a great place to buy flour, ol- Soline (Piran salt products), Gujžina ive oil and bread bags (made by Andrej’s (pumpkin seed oil, also a restaurant), partner). Honey house. A bit further down the same street opposite of the Cathedral you’ll find Zakladi Slovenije, Kraševka and other nice shops. There, your gour- Dobrote Dolenjske (Dolenjska met shopping is done. Delights) If you’re looking for local, hand made, organic, honest and delicious gifts, this

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Klobasarna farmers market. The couple behind it is After three generations of a watch re- Monika and Peter Vogelnik who run pair shop it was time for Logar family very popular Kofce mountain hut and to rethink their business - and being prepare there their famous štruklji. We great food aficionados, they decided to love their combos of traditional hearty open the first Slovenian only fast food stews (ričet, jota, chicken stew etc) hole in a wall. Yummy sausage and buckwheat groats with sauerkraut, (=kranjska klobasa), vegetarian jota and sometimes with local wine or craft beer. ričet stews, sweet štruklji and (non)al- It’s like being in the mountains but with- coholic beverages make up a menu that out the hike! draws both tourists and locals alike. And they even have Bevog beer which is definitely a plus for us! Gelateria Romantika We’ve evolved pass artificially flavored ice cream we all grew up on (and still Moji štruklji Slovenije turned out ok) and Ljubljana now sports No traditional Slovenian food list is quite a few amazing gelato places. The complete without štruklji – rolled pastry one we swear by is Gelateria Romantika with various fillings, wrapped, cooked with its all-natural (no pre-made pastes and sliced. It is thus no wonder that a used), made in-house, crazy-flavored štruklji-only eatery Moji štruklji (My št- gelato and sorbet which you can enjoy ruklji) finally opened in 2017 at the main in their tiny patio with a gorgeous view of the riverside and castle - especially during sunset hours. Try their season- al surprises like truffles, hazelnut and asparagus, or all-time favorite choco- late with Piran salt flower. If the own- er Mateja is there, chat with her and see for yourself why she dropped her lawyer’s career - being surrounded by freshly made gelato is a much better office!

Hood burger It all started in Trnovo hood in front of

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Sax pub where two economics gradu- (yes, also vegan). Come early, around ates with a trailer thought, how about noon, because they close by 3pm and making an awesome burger made all there’s a lot of hungry students around from Slovene ingredients? And so, from neighboring high schools and uni- fast forward a few years, they moved versity who’d love to have those de- on from the pop-up trailer to owning lights. a real heavy duty container in front of Interspar Vič, a restaurant in Nazorje- va street downtown and a street food stand within a food court in BTC shop- Domača peka ping area. We’d say it’s the best value When we’re not feeling like baking our for money and we love their occasional, own desserts (which we do a lot), we seasonal surprises. like to get them where it’s almost like at home - at that for us is Domača peka (Homestyle baking). Owner Tilen Me- jač is continuing his mother’s over 20 Barbarella year tradition of baking only the best If vegans and vegetarian were almost treats, using no artificial additions or no left hungry a decade ago, this is not margarine, but lots of love, devotion and the case anymore as we have an abun- only the real deal. This includes cakes, dance of eateries now catering fur such poticas, pies, rolls, cookies and other tastes. One that sticks out might be droolable delights which we like to have Barbarella with her bistro at the central as to go (and pretend to our guests we market named Arkade, or (though not made them ourselves) or if the need is just) juice bar in Slovenska road. Banana high right there on the spot with some bread, buddha bowls, detox smoothies, hot drinks. Tip: their seasonal bites like all the #cleaneats lingo you can think of, Carnival donuts, or summer štrudls or they got you covered. soft ice cream are a big hit!

Šunknžemlja Horacij It is much more than what it is - šun- Locally owned shop Horacij, named ka (ham) and žemlja (bun). But this old after French protector of bakers, of- school expression for a quick sandwich fers a variety of locally produced baked break gives away the theme of this tiny goods, pastas, artisan chocolates and shop in Igriška street: freshly made breads. You can also try one of the best sandwiches designed for your taste Slovenian whiskey and locally produced

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liquor, such as ‘borovničke’ and ‘medi- Another one like that (selling Slovenian ca’. If you are more of a fashion admir- designers items) is shop Ika - across the er, they also exhibit (and sell) designer bridge and square from Horacij. clothes, designed by young Slovenian fashion designers.

RESTAURANTS

5-6 kg Vino & ribe A team of foodie enthusiasts will pam- The name says it all, wine and fish. per you with their homey, seasonal, Straight from the Adriatic coast or Mediterranean Slovenia inspired daily carefully selected from abroad. Anoth- lunches and dishes like octopus gou- er family establishment by Matjaž Čok lash with polenta, sausages with pota- (beside Altroke, located directly op- toes, seafood pasta and other delights posite) it ensures to bring you modern - like their famous squid ink dough pizza creations of old fish traditions. Our fa- (form the wood oven, obviously). Their vorites include sardele in šavor, stuffed meats & cheese interpretations are also calamari and homemade pate. Oh, and finger-licking. Located at the very end wine, obviously. of beautiful Medieval Ljubljana and very well worth a few extra steps.

Robba Same owner as tourists’ favorite Julija Altroke and more high end Valvas’or, Vito Ko- If Ljubljana can’t be at the the seaside, rošec decided Robba to be a bit more the seaside comes to Ljubljana - in urban, yet retaining Slovene classics. the form of Altroke (meaning indeed), Referring to our famous Francesco Matjaž Čok’s place full of family run almost opposite of the recipes and modern twists on Istrian venue, we love coming here for daily traditions. Recently we’ve been lov- lunch options or dinners, especially on ing their nona Lidija’s tortelini, mussels Sundays or holidays. Their staff is super in white wine and … well, we can’t get friendly. Check out their duck salad, enough of their incredible pastas made deconstructed Prekmurje gibanica lay- only with local, genuine ingredients. er cake, and cocktail list.

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Gostilna dela You can start already there for break- fast but it’s their lunch we recommend in this socially responsible venue. As a spin-off of their programme where they create working opportunities for people lacking social skills, education or bear any other social stigma, they offer a daily different meat, vegetarian and fish dishes to satisfy all the working crowds surrounding their area. Come early to get your spot because the word ef their excellence is already very out there.

Bazilika The woman in charge, Darja Končare- but … be surprised). And no, they don’t vič, now has a mini-empire of healthy, speak French. mostly vegetarian, innovative dishes in 5 establishments all around downtown (Bistro, Križanke, Miklošičeva, Cankar- jev dom, and now also Bife). A perfect Monstera feel-good sit-down for any time of the Nothing monstrous about this place day and instagram itches. We love their (the name actually comes from Latin occasional gourmand escapades like where Monstera deliciosa is a plant you cevicheria, Japanese nights and cosy probably have in your office and it’s on brunches. display here as well). Just pure good food prepared by (not just) TV-famous chef Bine Volčič: amazing lunches Mon-Sat and 7-course tasting dinners Le petit cafe Thu-Sat with just “two menus - take it The names says it’s small but the rep- or leave it”. If you dig Ana Roš, she’ll tell utation is not: delicious cakes, cute you that’s where she’d dine when in Lju- interior, lovely breakfasts and lunches. bljana - enough said. We heart their signature caffe latte - Le Petit bela kava (which is not even coffee

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Atelje it anymore. If you’re craving a bit more Known before as Smrekarjev hram, excellent Japanese cuisine, skip the nothing is the same as its ancestor: run river across to Tokyo piknik for some by heavily talented young chef Jorg Zu- ramen & more, delight yourself with pan, it is an expression (hence the name some French desserts in the nearby meaning atelier, studio) of his unique pastry shop Fetiche, or hop a bit more ideas on Slovenian & fusion food. Come pass Shoemakers bridge to Romeo and for the tasty weekday lunches, stay enjoy some more sweet treats - their for the amazing creations, fascinating crepes. For those on a diet, we recom- homemade discoveries, extensive wine mend Romeo’s salads - hanging out at list, interesting collaborations with oth- the river while doing so puts everyone in er chefs and hipster interior. a good mood.

Sveti Florijan Parma Besides the exquisite food and colorful We’re next to Italy so good pizza is easy interior, Sv. Florijan is broken down into to find (there’s Trta in Prule district, and 4 different sections which come alive if you like Napoli style, head over to Ve- at different times throughout the day; race under the castle), but Parma might a deli, a bistro, a restaurant and a jazz not be your classical pizza - yet still a club, all in one. A French-inspired place pretty exciting bite. Because you don’t for get-togethers with an open-air just get the thick, topping-laden baked kitchen, where attentive observers can round bread but also all the atmosphere tune into their own live reality show. It and nostalgia that comes with it. It was is located at the tail end of Gornji trg. he first pizzeria not just in Slovenia but also in whole Yugoslavia when it opened in 1970s, and they’re still serving pizzas from the same oven and serving the Sushimama (+ Tokyo piknik same juices. Although they now pride & Romeo) to use only organic flour. Look around Owner Gregor Božičnik knows what you, there’s a fat chance you’re sitting he’s doing with all of his & his broth- among students munching on their stu- er’s renowned businesses: Sushima- dent-coupon treat. na, Tokyo piknik, Fetiche patisserie and Romeo. Bringing high quality su- shi downtown was a bold move but we cannot imagine Wolfova street without

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Sato Bento dish from Soča valley of cottage cheese There might not be a lot of Asians re- stuffed potatoes), this is the ultimate siding in Slovenia but all we needed was meat heaven, but not only. Best known one Japanese under the name of Shin for fresh raw & grilled meat delicacies, Sato to establish the best izakaya in you’ll also want to come for their tasty town. Previously only a catering chef, vegetarian dishes, made exclusively of Shin opened his very own Japanese fresh, simple genuine ingredients. On a foodie heaven in a totally unassuming side note, we highly recommend book- mini-shopping centre (90s were ex- ing in advance to avoid disappointment ploding with them) in Ledina district. of occupied tables for hours. Weekly lunch & dinner menus, casual surprises (like Japanese Michelin star guest chef evenings), deliveries - we can never get enough of Shin’s ramen, Resdobr chirashi sushi or bento boxes! Formerly known as Fejst meni, this sor- ta hole in a wall offers one of the best homey lunches and snacks in town. We love going there for their daily soups Čompa and stews, meatballs with mashed po- Don’t let the name fool you. Even tato, stuffed zucchinis, signature warm though it is called “Čompa” (a typical radicchio with various toppings, apple pie … You name it, they’ll have it - ac- cording to the season. As one of the reviews on Facebook page says: great food, healthy options, creative cuisine.

Mala terasa Named after a hugely popular song from the 60s (when music was still mu- sic … ) from a band Bele vrane, Small terrace, this tiny spot has a big flavour. Situated on top of a, you guess it, ter- race it offers one of the tastiest, home- made, fast and healthiest take-away or sit-down lunches. One pot dishes, pastas, wraps, goulash, fish - whatever’s

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in season, they prepare it with love and decided to offer just seafood ones - gusto, and lots of veggies and flavorful with heaps of plating inspiration, high spices. See you there! quality ingredients and amusing fla- vours. Just beware of taking those steps downwards to the toilet after you’ve had a few … Luda Although they’re constantly changing their hours of operation (lunch and/or dinner), menus (set tasting / a la carte) Figovec and booking system (mandatory / walk- What used to be one of the oldest inns in) - so check their website for the lat- in Ljubljana, closed after many many est situation, one thing always remains years of operation, then turned into a the same: great food. And wine. (And curry house, then Spanish tapas place no menu modification according to - only to be opened yet again as a tradi- your latest diet fad.) Owned by co-cre- tional Slovenian food haven in 2017. It’s ators of other yummy businesses such like our grandma’s cuisine but way more as sourdough pizzeria Trappa in Vič and instagrammable. And listen to the truly its take-away sister Trappica down- Slovenian music there too! town, with its own chef, expect simple, straightforward dishes - well, now they

BARS, CAFES & PUBS TOZD First bar in town with such wicked in- terior design (fixie bikes on walls, X-ray menus behind the bar etc), it quickly became one of local favorites for af- ter-school coffee (students love it), chilled summer evenings (a few steps away from the main hustle & bustle makes a difference), before / after Sat- urday’s farmers market visit chit-chat and much more. One of the first to introduce a Slovene craftbeer on tap, roast their own coffee and tapas boards.

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Gallus tea house teaching you new appreciation of your Sitting on their patio at the river side daily brew. Drinking coffee will never be you’ll feel like in Paris. Except their forte the same once you undergo his treat- isn’t croissants and coffee but amazing ment. teas (also ice) and great cakes. Try per- haps Plečnik’s (our most renowned ar- chitect) tea blend, apparently it’s sup- posed to bring you long life! Magda Fresh oysters in the summer, meat & cheese platters and fabulous selec- tion of high quality alcoholic drinks all Pritličje year, DJ nights on weekends - that Based in the ground level (as the name pretty much sums up what used to be suggest) next to our city hall, you can’t a dive bar for about 50 years-ish be- miss their fabulous patio as well as styl- fore a team from ex notorious bar BiK- ish indoors. LGBT friendly and host- oFe turned it into Magda. Your friendly ing many social awareness events, it’s neighbor that won’t say no to any outfit a popular spot for everyone searching or artistic idea you might have. for a relaxed “me” time with some great coffee, cocktails, daily soups, pizzettas, sweet treats - we can’t get enough of their cheesecake. In the evenings, great Sir Williams pub (usually live) DJ music ensures. Its subname House of beer does not do it justice in full. Because there’s more than just beer - it’s the BEST beer se- lection in town (14 taps, of those most- ly Slovenian brews!) with savvy waiters, eccentric manager Marco (yes, the c is Čokl not a typo), cosy interior and delicious Paving the way in specialty coffee, this charcuterie from the deli across the tiny hole in the wall which will greet you road Dobrote.si. If you’re lucky, you with a “Friends don’t let friends drink will crash the monthly tweet meet of Starbucks” sticker has a great soul, the twitter sphere in Slovenia meeting coffee offer, and mission - the place is there, or after-work (whenever that is) small but the coffee is big, they’ll say. of public TV & radio journalists who re- The eccentric owner Tine (who can talk side also just opposite of the venue. about coffee all day, every day) is all about organic and fair trade beans, and

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Šuklje Lajbah True, Ljubljana had a few wine bars be- Situated in a pleasant neighbourhood, fore family-run Šuklje one opened in just a few steps from Ljubljana’s Old June 2017, but none of them carried Town and the River , and a this much love and devotion to the re- big brother of Že v redu, Primož beer gion they belong to - Bela Krajina in the shop, Lajbah is a pub where lovers of southeast part of Slovenia. That’s why craft beer can enjoy sixteen different we love their traditional and protected tap brews and bottled beer from Slo- flatbread pogača, cold cuts and other venian microbreweries and abroad. tidbits they seasonally come up with. However, it is more than that – their And of course wine tasting flights. Ad- rich worldwide cuisine selection of pub ditionally, because of owner Katja and food (what else do you expect from an her French husband Guillaume stud- Argentinian-Slovenian chef?), also btw ies and career, they carry a vast list of French, South African and Australian wines.

Prulček Prulček provides the best of small inti- mate club gigs with great atmosphere and thankful audience. It is visited al- most exclusively by locals who come to drink a wide range of international/ vegetarian friendly, changes according artisan beers out at their terrace, un- to the season. Don’t miss their special derneath a canopy of coloured umbrel- events, like tap takeovers, one-day beer las. With curved bar and a glitter ball, festivals or fancier dinners with special there’s a waft of provincial 1980s UK beer pairing. nightclub about the venue’s interior, but here is where you’ll find jazz, rock, blues and cabaret performances almost every evening. Excellent for music and Kolibri good vibes lovers. What used to be the cool people’s long time favorite bar BiKoFe is now known as the cool people’s favorite cocktail bar Kolibri. Bearing the name of a hum- mingbird in Slovenian it is as quirky

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and special as its animal counterpart: stacked with worldly books, a (legit) finely tuned cocktails, made from old indoor smoking area, stuffed leopard school pharmacy recipes from the US overseeing the entrance … with all the prohibition times, are prepared by a drinks and food you’ve definitely had barman and mixologist in a super ret- (at least we did) - Slovenian craftbeer, ro-cum-postmodern interior where homemade masala chai, and of course relaxed chat, secret whispers and sexy our favorite breakfast čokolino. Did we encounters might ensue, as they prom- mention they have a patio, live gigs and ise. Your best “prescribed” dose of high upper neighbors getting their drinks quality alcohol without prescription. from a bucket dropped down on a rope too? Others just have to sit on their chilled patio and watch the hordes of tourists making their way to the castle Črno zrno funicular while sipping ginger & lemon There’s at least another famous Co- ice tea … lombian export, and we’re more than You’ll find Daktari under “what’s not to excited to have it dealt directly here in like” in dictionary for sure. Ljubljana. We’re talking of course about coffee. Specifically, specialty coffee brought to your daily brew by a Co- lombian, married to a Slovenian, named Pri vodnjaku Alex. Another hole in a wall, beautifully Is there a place with thick, yummy hot decorated (Alex’s main profession is an chocolate in winter, a wide selection of architect!) and ever more fabulously delectable ice cream in summer and in- stocked with always freshly roasted and dulgent homemade cakes in between? seasonally adjusted Colombian coffee Too easy - Pri vodnjaku (At the foun- beans straight from the growers. Come tain), of course! We’re in love with their for the cold brew, stay for the stories. If vintage interior and coziness where, there’s a more Latino lover-ish person along with your sweet guilty pleas- describing and preparing your favorite ures’ treats, you’ll forget the rest of the cuppa than Alex, let us know! world. Pure decadence.

Daktari Zvezda Imagine a living room you never had (at True to its name, Zvezda is a well-lit star least we didn’t) - red velvety couch- among patisseries in Ljubljana. Opened es, piano in the corner, bookshelves in 1999, it has spread out a number of

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devoted fans and to a few other loca- else. Mostly focusing on drinks but they tions (another one in downtown would do surprise with some delicious edible be in hotel Slon). Not the cheapest items every now and then. option in town but savoring one of the many scrumptious cakes on offer, and in such a prime location as next to park Zvezda (= star) where it’s just as much about seeing than being seen, has its price.

Žmauc Ah, legendary Žmauc. Don’t be sur- prised if you spot some local celebrities there (actors, directors, singers, pho- tographers and the like) because it’s a perfect hideaway in a quieter part of town than at the river. Plus, the vibe, in- terior and their patio is unlike anywhere

NEIGHBORHOODS

Petkovšek river bank some sports match), although we hang If Ljubljana had a beer garden like the around outside also in winter. Germans, this would be it: Petkovšek, Premier, Fany & Mary, Lockal and Fo- Trubarjeva street rum all serve great Slovenian and for- Let’s face it, Ljubljana is a pretty mo- eign craft & commercial beer. Some no-cultural city. Which reflects in our establishments also serve quite nice culinary offerings as well. However, in food (though for a more substantial recent years, eateries with roots from meal it’s probably best you sit down all over the world have been growing, at Most restaurant in the same strip). especially in Trubarjeva street where Best enjoyed during warm months in you can get everything from Greek, their patios when the area is swarming Bengali and Lebanese treats to falafel, with beer drinkers (especially during Asian bistro, plus a wine and beer shop.

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Yep, a street that takes you around tika, Čompa, and below Resljeva street the world! Our favorites include Abi Namaste express, Zrno do zrna shop, Falafel, Osha, Že v redu Primož beer- Štorija wine shop. shop, Libanonske meze, Pinseria Rus-

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Prule & Krakovo You might think Medieval Ljubljana ends with Zois street and Šentjakob bridge, but it continues across into Žabjak, Prule, Krakovo and almost Trnovo dis- tricts. Well worth exploring not only be- cause of historical sights (such as spe- cial type of architecture, urban gardens or famous architect Jože Plečnik’s mu- seum) but also due to foodie endeav- ors: Lajbah for craftbeer, Trta for pizza, Špica caffe for relaxed drink in the sun (try not to feed the nutria - coypu), and on the other river bank Nostalgija vin- tage cafe for retro buzz, Krakov’c bar for their awesome patio, Mala pražarna for specialty coffee,Craft room for ar- tisanal beer, Pri Škofu inn for a tucked Outskirts: Žabar, Pri stričku, away bite, Jakob Franc for Slovenian Kmečki hram, Cubo, Pri food fare, and Eipprova street for a res- Kovaču idential style pub feeling. Home is (mostly) where city centre is not so no wonder the more tradition- al food venues abound in predomi- nantly residential districts. You have Žabar (žaba meaning frog, and we Lju- bljanaeers are frog people because of the swamp land on the south) in Vič, Pri stričku (At the uncle’s) in Jarše, Kmečki hram (Countryside temple) in Tomačevo, almost high-end haven Cubo in Jarše, or Pri Kovaču (At the Smith’s) in - which is basical- ly already almost outside of Ljubljana. And many more. Our advice: it’s worth going a few kilometres outside of your comfort city centre zone to try hearty dishes at these eateries and discover how we truly like to eat and drink.

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Kaja There is still a lot of room for more cool restaurants, (natural) wine bars, sour- dough bakeries, small artiginal shops, P e Sajovic, ho hiv to rc : personal a craft brew pubs and cocktail bars man- food journalist & writer aged by worldly people who actually travel, drink and eat, not just those who are looking for somewhere to deposit For the past 13 years, Kaja Sajovic has their money. worked as a journalist for RTV Slove- nia. Besides foreign policy, she also How about the foodie scene - has it specialises in culinary art and is the changed too? editor of the culinary-travel section The Ljubljana food scene has made a on the national Radio and TV website. huge step forward, particularly in the She is also a co-author of brand new past five years. Especially in the area of Slovenian gastronomic strategy and a modern bistros, which alas, are still so co-author of Ana Roš’s first monogra- few that they can be counted on one phy, written for Phaidon New York. hand. We also really need more venues And may we add, she’s a silent lady with focus, vision and depth as men- with a sharp tongue. At the same time tioned above. Chefs need more depth, she is also an avid traveler and a big as well as the service staff – service is gourmand. Due to her role as a food- particularly a weak point in Slovenia ie, she always plans her travels around in general – the argument being that visits to selected restaurants and wine they’re not being paid enough, but I makers. disagree – I think they lack interest in the profession. What does Ljubljana mean to you? In the field of high-end cuisine we I have lived in Ljubljana my entire life. have Igor Jagodic from Strelec, Janez During this time, Ljubljana has un- Bratovž from JB and Jorg Zupan from doubtedly changed a lot, especially in Atelje. Atelje is showcasing Zupan’s the last decade. Recently it has become exceptional, modern, fresh, cosmopol- quite popular with tourists. It is a green, itan cuisine (he has done a few stages safe and manageable city - all of which abroad), but can sometimes be a bit are huge positive points. But the big- heavy. Ljubljana was also finally swept gest disadvantage is that it still seems by the bistro trend: Monstera has con- to be lagging behind some trends. For tributed a lot, followed by Luda. An- example, opening a burger place, even a other great venue is Tabar where they good one, cannot exactly be considered master small plates and have by far the highlight of the year as some would feel. best wine list in town (the latter being

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very rare in Ljubljana where wine lists Where do you like to hang out? are very predictable). Everyone probably has their own fa- In Ljubljana there is still considerable vourite favorite place, one which they room for niche restaurants. The restau- continue to insist is the best, even after rants with foreign cuisine are, besides a many new outlets have opened. So my few exceptions, mostly below average. happy place is Tabar, which I mentioned The potential for quality bistros and earlier. I am a fan of natural wines, so wine bars that offer small plates/snacks their wine list always speaks to me, and I is huge. I also miss showcasing qual- like their food which is relatively original ity local producers – a cheese shop, and daring. It’s worldly and yet based on a sourdough shop … When you walk Slovenian produce. Young chef Jakob around Ljubljana is hard to grasp what Pintar is definitely one of the more tal- really Slovenian cuisine is. ented Slovenian chefs. We don’ really have a lot of hipster ca- How is Ljubljana culinary scene com- fes where they would be really dedicat- pared to the rest of the world? ed to the art of coffee making, so when You can find enough quality restaurants it comes to where to grab a coffee or for one weekend, but then you slowly a glass of whisky, I swear by Kinodvor, run out of them. Trends usually come perhaps because I am a film buff and it’s here after a long delay, which makes me pretty close to where I work. sometimes feel like we are a closed, un- I like to have dinner at Luda (good food, educated country, where the “culinary great wine list but poor service) or quick event of the year” is simply when a new sushi/miso soup lunch at Sushimama. burger joint or a pizzeria opens. On special occasions I eat at Atelje or The longest lines at our Open Kitchen Čompa if I crave for really good meat. streetfood market are usually in front For horse meat Krušič is the way to go. of quick, cheap Asian eats, as if Slo- I would also like to mention Skaručna venes haven’t yet stepped beyond our and Grič, both outside of Ljubljana, and borders to try something new. It is still maybe a bit too expensive to visit as a more important for us to eat inexpen- by the sively than it is to eat food that is of high way. For authentic Slovenian food, quality, and this situation is something head to Gostilna Mihovec outside Lju- which I think is closely linked to the Slo- bljana and order liver. And for cocktails vene mentality. I never understood why and speakeasy atmosphere Kolibri. Slovenians are afraid to really showcase their assets like excellent pumpkin oil, How could you spend a weekend in olive oil, štruklji, bear meat … instead Ljubljana? they prefer to open another pizza place. If money isn’t an obstacle, absolutely head over to Skaručna, which is proba-

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bly the best display of Slovenian cuisine, blog kruhinvino.com (Bread & wine) al- along with a show their flamboyant chef ready since 2006. He is the author of Slavko Žagar jr. puts on. For a higher, two bestselling cookbooks: Kuhinja za classical culinary experience book a ta- prave moške (Cooking For Real Men) ble at Strelec, and for those who pre- and Orodjarna (Toolbox). fer a bolder, more youthful high-end specialties visit Grič, Tabar, Atelje or How would you rate the development of Monstera. For meat lovers, your place our gastronomy scene in the last 5-10 is Čompa. years? For burger and beer it has to be Pop’s It seems to me that Ljubljana is in per- Place, and wine-lovers should stop by petual transition or in development. It’s Movia Bar, Tozd, Tabar or Wine bar a lot of momentum and ideas but they Šuklje. Another option is to grab some all somehow disappear. It looks like Slo- sourdough bread at the bakery Osem, venian restaurants are based on the as- some quality Italian delicacies at Do- sumption that you will be visiting them brote.si, and then find a space by the only once and never again, that’s why Ljubljanica river for a picnic. they are not trying to adapt their menus On Friday, it’s time for Open Kitchen to the seasons and cherish that. which is a nice display of the culinary and wine Ljubljana has to offer. How does Ljubljana culinary scene com- pare with the rest of the world? I think quite well, for me Ljubljana is better than much bigger Croatian capi- Boštjan tal Zagreb. Regardless of how little res- idents our town has, I think the choice

Napotnik, P and variety of offers are enviably good. h am oto: Uroš Abr food blogger & critic Where are you favorite places to hang out? Boštjan Napotnik, for friends also I like going to the cult “hodok”or hot Napo, is a legend among food blog- dog event every Wednesday in Lepa gers and critics. He complements his žoga bar, about five times a years. I like day job as a creative director of the Žmoht food truck in district, for advertising company Futura with writ- the beer I step into Sir William’s pub, ing restaurants’ reviews for the weekly across the street from it is the delika- magazine Mladina, running the morn- tessed Dobrote.si where I go for some ing programme at Radio Študent every salami and cheese. Japanese hole in now and then and creating his food the wall Sato Bento is remarkable,

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TaBar on Ribji trg has the best price/ a nice low-key restaurant. Additionally, performance ratio on creative dishes you can visit architectural museum in and stunning wine list. I really like most castle Fužine (and discover that part of venues in Trubarjeva street, especially Ljubljana as well) or get busy with the meat heaven Čompa and beer temple outdoor gyms which are abundant in Že v redu, Primož. At the bakery Osem Ljubljana’s parks. I usually buy just flour as I bake my own bread. Also Monstera is very good, and the central market hides some gems like Okusi Istre - it feels good to hang out Sabina there with a glass of wine. The neighbor-

P e Penšek, ho hiv ing bar Shakira has the cheapest drinks to: arc personal on the central market and is great for a food stylist sip among vendors. For a cup of caffe I head to nearby roaster Čokl. Outside of city centre my favorites are home- Sabina Penšek is a food stylist, food style kitchen Pri stričku, Krušič and blogger and generally a huge foodie. If Žabar, and Kevder - already outside of you ask her, she’ll introduce herself as Ljubljana limits in Brezovica - has some someone to whom food and eating rep- great lavender smoked salmon. resents a part, or actually a great deal, of life. Always surrounded by dishes How could you spend a weekend in Lju- and various ingredients she’s definitely bljana? a bit more precise and sensitive guest Sundays are time for family, for tra- and thus much more uncompromising- ditional Sunday lunches. If we are not ly screens restaurants’ and cafes’ offer. going to our in-laws, they come to us. I really like to cook, so I always try to What is Ljubljana for you? find the time to do it. But I would rec- Ljubljana is my city. I am born here and ommend a visit to the central market I don’t imagine my life anywhere else. on Fridays (on Saturdays it is already The city is wonderful, actually I think too crowded), and in the evening some it has grown, developed and adapted beer in Sir William’s pub. On Saturday together with me. Perhaps that’s why I you can take the kids to Urban roof in value or appreciate more what the city Šiška or get out for some walk to Špica offers and with what it can surprise us and further to botanical gardens where every season of the year. The city is there is a nice coffee and tea spot quite small but that’s what it makes it so Primula. Cute is also the walk to Rožnik homely and warm. hill above Tivoli park for some lunch at

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What about Ljubljana’s foodie scene? at the castle, and in the evening grab In past five years Ljubljana adopted so some coffee and ice cream in the cen- many culinary innovations that it some- tre, maybe in Hotel Slon or Zvezda, and times outshines even its neighboring finish the night at the Opera bar or treat capitals or at least stands against it. The yourself for a special occasion at Kolibri trend is definitely cosmopolitanism, to bar with special blend of cocktails. represent its citizens gourmet novel- ties, whether it is worldwide cuisine or new ideas just like that. Nevertheless, it’s true the offer could be even more bold. I think the citizens are craving it.

What are some of your favorite places to dine? I really like to go for a certain thing to a certain place, for that something that enchanted me for the time and left memories forever. I take my coffee in TOZD or cafe Čokl, gelato in Fetiche, fried chicken wings at Gostilna na gradu, Indian specialties at Maharaja, glass of wine & snack before a show at Vander, TaBar or Dvorni bar, warm Prekmurje layer cake at Gujžina, masa- la chai for a cold day break at Daktari, burger at Pop’s place, weekday quick lunch at Monstera and lazy weekend lunch at Ramen by Maru, and beer in Cutty Sark. And sushi - I hunt it wher- ever it appears.

How about a gourmet weekend plan in Ljubljana? Apart from the plan you can make ac- cording to my previous answer, I would certainly visit Modern and National gallery in the morning, in between stroll through nearby Tivoli park, then lunch

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Extra non foodie but still very useful links:

SPA: Atlantis Water Park: http://www.atlantis-vodnomesto.si/en-gb Saruna Wellness & Fitness club (InterContinental hotel): https://www.facebook. com/sarunawellnessljubljana/ Sense Wellness Austria Trend: https://www.austria-trend.at/sl/hotels/ljubljana/ wellness Sense Wellness Grand hotel Union: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1rMk- jIKoMKD3IArMyua-tKEYCggOR16k6lSSzHkSkT6I/edit Sunny studio: http://www.sunny.si/en/

POOL: Atlantis Water Park: http://www.atlantis-vodnomesto.si/en-gb Grand hotel Union: https://www.union-hotels.eu/en/grand-hotel-union/ sense-wellness/ Kodeljevo: https://www.sport-ljubljana.si/Kopalisce_Kodeljevo Kolezija: https://www.sport-ljubljana.si/Kopalisce_Kolezija/ Laguna: https://laguna.si/?lang=en Športna hiša Ilirija: http://www.plavalniklub-ilirija.si/index.php/kopalisce Tivoli: https://www.sport-ljubljana.si/Park_Tivoli_Kopalisce_Tivoli/

CINEMA: Dvor: https://www.kinodvor.org/en/programme/ Kinoteka: http://www.kinoteka.si/en/default.aspx Kolosej: https://www.kolosej.si/ Komuna: https://www.kolosej.si/

LJUBLJANA ACTIVITIES: Alternative Ljubljana: https://alternativetoursljubljana.com/ Bananaway SUP adventures: https://www.bananaway.si//sup-tours-slovenia/ Ljubljana Guides: https://www.ljubljanaguides.com/ Running Ljubljana: https://www.running-ljubljana.si/ Watermelon Ljubljana by bike: https://www.ljubljanabybike.com/

SLOVENIA INFO: Adele in Slovenia: https://adeleinslovenia.com/ Faladur: http://www.faladur.si/?lang=en

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Slocally: https://slocally.com/ Slotrips: http://www.slovenia-trips.com/ Wandering Helene: https://wanderinghelene.com/category/travel/slovenia/ Winestronaut: https://www.winestronaut.com/language/en/

Ljubljana drink & dine scene breakdown:

5-6 kg: https://www.facebook.com/gostilnica56kg/ Abi Falafel: http://www.falafel.si/ Altroke: https://www.facebook.com/altroke.si/ Argentino: http://argentino.si/slovenija/ Art Bread: https://www.facebook.com/artbread.si/ Atelje: https://www.restavracijaatelje.com/our-vision Balthazar: https://www.visitljubljana.com/en/visitors/things-to-do/shopping/balt- hazar-the-wine-store/ Barbarella: http://www.barbarella.si/index.php?change_language=en Barut: https://barutbrew.com/about-us/ Bevog: https://bevog.at/ Čad: http://www.gostilna-cad.si/english/index.htm Cha: https://www.cha.si/ Čin čin: https://tobacna.eu/ Čokl: http://cafecokl.si/ Čompa: https://www.facebook.com/Čompa-209021859192246/ Craft room: https://www.facebook.com/craftroomslo/ Črno zrno: https://www.crnozrno.com/ Cubo: https://www.cubo.si/ Cutty Sark: https://www.cuttysarkpub.si/en/home/ Daktari: http://www.daktari.si/ Das ist Valter: http://dasistwalter.eu/en/ Dekanter: https://www.facebook.com/dekanter.wineboutique.ljubljana/ Deset v pol: http://10vpol.si/ Dobnik: https://www.cokoladniatelje.si/ Dobrote Dolenjske: http://www.dobrote-dolenjske.si/ Dobrote.si: https://www.google.com/maps/place/Delikatesa+Dobrote. si/@46.0544703,14.5052962,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x4765329d- 940cee4f:0x8a7913c9b77da1c5!8m2!3d46.0544703!4d14.5074849 Domača peka: https://www.facebook.com/nekajsladkega

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Dvorni bar: https://dvornibar.net/ E-vino: https://www.evino.si/en/ Fany in Mary: https://www.facebook.com/fanymary/ Fetiche: http://fetichepatisserie.com/ Figovec: https://figovec.si/ Forum: https://www.forumbarljubljana.com/ Gallus: https://www.facebook.com/pg/Čajnica-Gallus-514486435246510/ posts/ Gaudi: https://www.gaudi.si/ Gelateria Romantika: http://www.gelateria-romantika.si/ Gostilna dela: https://www.facebook.com/Gostilnadela/ Green Gold Brewing: https://www.greengoldbrewing.com/ Grič: http://www.gostilna-gric.si/ Gujžina: http://www.prekmurska-gostilna.si/ Hiša Franko: https://www.hisafranko.com/ Honey House: https://honeyhouse.si/en/ Hood burger: https://www.hoodburger.si/ Hopsbrew: http://hopsbrew.si/ Hopster: https://www.facebook.com/HopstersBrew/ Horacij: https://www.facebook.com/Horacij-local-food-drink-de- sign-268947196545888/ Human fish: https://www.visitvrhnika.si/en/things-to-do/human-fish-brewery Jakob Franc: https://www.facebook.com/gostilnaJakobFranc/ Jazz club Sv. Florijan: https://www.sveti-florijan.com/ Jazz Paradise club: http://jazzclubgajo.com/ JB: http://jb-slo.com/en/ Kam zvečer: https://www.kamzvecer.si/?lang=sl Kavarna Tiskarna: https://www.facebook.com/kavarnaTiskarna/ Kevder: https://www.facebook.com/kevderbrezovica/ Kino Šiška: https://www.kinosiska.si/ Klobasarna: http://www.klobasarna.si/en Kmečki hram: https://www.facebook.com/Kmečki-hram-gostilnapenzi- on-192318657451597/ Kolibri: https://www.kolibri-bar.com/ Krakovc: https://www.facebook.com/pivnicakrakovc/ Kralj žara: https://www.kraljzara.si/steak-smoke-house/ Kraševka: http://www.krasevka.si/ Krušič: http://www.mesarstvo-krusic.si/

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Lajbah: http://www.lajbah.si/EN/ Lars & Sven: http://www.larsandsven.si/ Le Petit: http://www.lepetit.si/ Lepa Žoga: https://www.facebook.com/LepaZoga Libanonske meze: http://www.libanonskemeze.si/ Lobik: http://lobikbrewery.com/home/ Lockal: https://www.facebook.com/Lockal.Petkovsek/ Loo-bla-nah: https://www.looblahnah.com/ LP Bar: http://www.lpbar.si/lp/faces/index.xhtml?id=1 Luda: http://www.luda.si/ Magda: https://barmagda.si/ Maharaja: https://www.maharaja.si/en/ Mala pražarna: https://www.facebook.com/malaprazarna/ Mala terasa: http://malaterasa.com/ Mala ulica: https://www.malaulica.si/en/ Mali grad: https://www.beeradvocate.com/beer/profile/38934/ Manna: http://www.restavracija-manna.si/ Maxim: https://www.maxi.si/en/restaurant-maxim/ Mihovec: https://www.facebook.com/GostilnaMihovec/ Modern gallery: http://www.mg-lj.si/en/ Moderna: http://www.kavarnamoderna.si/ Moji štruklji Slovenije: https://www.moji-struklji.si/en/ Monstera: http://monsterabistro.si/en/ Most: http://www.restavracija-most.si/index.php/en/ Movia: http://www.movia.si/en/ljubljana-wine-bar-shop Na gradu: http://www.nagradu.si/en/ Namaste express: http://www.restavracija-namaste.si/express/ National gallery: https://www.ng-slo.si/en/ Nostalgija: https://www.facebook.com/pages/category/Pub/Nostalgija-vin- tage-cafe-1506410519577790/ Odprta kuhna: http://www.odprtakuhna.si/en/ Okusi Istre: https://www.facebook.com/okusiistre.ratosa/ Omnivar: https://omnivar.si/ Opera bar: http://www.opera-bar.com/eng/ Origano: https://www.origano.si/ Osem: http://pekarnaosem.com/ Osha: https://www.facebook.com/azijskibistroosha/ Parma: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Pizzeria-Parma/134328363316661

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Pelicon: https://www.pelicon.beer/ Petkovšek: https://www.facebook.com/CaffePetkovsek Pinseria Rustika: https://www.facebook.com/PinsaRustika/ Pivoljub: https://www.pivoljub.si/ Pivovarna Laško in Union: http://www.pivovarnalaskounion.com/en/ Pop’s place: https://www.facebook.com/PopsPlaceBurgerBar/ Premier: https://www.facebook.com/pages/category/Pub/Pre- mier-Pub-195926524176595/ Pri kovaču: http://www.gostilna-pri-kovacu.si/ Pri škofu: https://www.facebook.com/gostilnica.priskofu Pri stričku: http://www.pri-stricku.si/ Pri vodnjaku: https://www.facebook.com/Cokoladnica/ Primula: https://www.cajnica-primula.si/ Pritličje: http://www.pritlicje.si/ Pritličje: http://www.pritlicje.si/ Prulček: https://www.prulcek.si/ Ramen by Maru: https://www.facebook.com/ramenbymaru/ Res Dobr: https://www.facebook.com/resdobr.cankarjeva/ Reservoir dogs: https://reservoir-dogs.beer/?lang=en Robba: https://robbarestaurant.com/ Romeo: http://caferomeo.si/ Sato Bento: http://japonska-hrana.si/ Shakira: https://www.google.si/maps/place/BAR+SHAKIRA+Lju- bljana,+Zekira+Kavazovi%C4%87+s.p./@46.0512644,14.507757,15z/data- =!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x54e5bcb301845c8a!8m2!3d46.0512644!4d14.507757 Sir Williams pub: https://sirwilliamspub-eng.webs.com/ Skaručna: https://skarucna.si/en/ Slon: https://www.hotelslon.com/en-gb Soline: http://www.soline.si/ Sorbara steak house: https://www.facebook.com/sorbarasteakhouse/ Špica caffe: http://www.kaval-group.si/SPICA_CAFFE,,kavarnica.htm Štorija: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g274873-d11829462- Reviews-Wine_Store_Storija-Ljubljana_Upper_Carniola_Region.html STOW: https://www.stow.si/ Strelec: http://www.kaval-group.si/STRELEC,,restavracija.htm Šuklje: http://winebar.suklje.com/ Šunknžemlja: https://sunknzemlja.si/ Sushimama: http://sushimama.si/

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Sv. Florijan: https://www.sveti-florijan.com/ Tabar: http://www.tabar.si/ Taman: http://taman-organic.si/ Tokyo Piknik: http://www.tokyopiknik.com/ Tonight: https://tonight.viberate.com/ig TOZD: https://m.facebook.com/TOZDbar/ Trappa: https://www.trappa.si/ Trta: https://www.trta.si/?lang=en Urban roof: https://urbanroof.si/ Vander: http://vanderhotel.com/ Veganika: https://veganika.si/ Verace: https://www.verace.si/ Vino in ribe: https://m.facebook.com/vinoinribe/ Vizir: https://www.vizir.si/ Za popen’t: https://www.spottedbylocals.com/ljubljana/pivoteka-za-popent/ Žabar: http://prizabarju.si/en/ Zakladi Slovenije: https://www.facebook.com/Treasures.Of.Slovenija.Ljubljana/ Že v redu, Primož: http://www.pr-primozu.si/ Žmauc: http://barzmauc.sqwiz.si/sl-SI/14295/o-nas Žmoht: https://www.facebook.com/zmoht/ Zrno do zrna: https://www.facebook.com/pages/category/Specialty-Gro- cery-Store/Zrno-do-zrna-trgovina-z-ekološkimi-izdelki-259092567854366/ Zvezda: http://www.zvezdaljubljana.si/en/

www.ljubljananjam.si #ljubljananjam 47 We hope you enjoy the yummy side of the Alps with our help from LjubljanaYum team!

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