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E a T Like a Local • W Ith a Lo C A

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E a T Like a Local • W Ith a Lo C A vol. 1/2019 L E A OC IK A L L T A • E L • A W C IT O H A L E www.ljubljananjam.si [email protected] Ljubljana Foodie Guide Text: Iva Gruden, Nina Purger, Pia Kaplan Foreword: Iva Gruden Proof reading: Tom Norman, Iva Gruden Photography: Iva Gruden, Nina Purger, Pia Kaplan, Mankica Kranjec Design: Edin Biščić – MONU Issue date: May 2019 Place of issue: Ljubljana, Slovenia, EU Form: E-booklet, PDF Copyright: Iva Gruden, s.p. Price: 6 eur / free for LjubljanaYum food tours customers URL: http://www.ljubljananjam.si/slovenia-food-blog/ljubljana-foodie-guide vol. 1/2019 Ljubljana foodie guide Want to know how to talk and dine like a local foodie? Get to know more about Ljubljana’s hidden (culinary) gems, what to do on a rainy day, which (craft) beer to order, where to get best meat, specialty coffee, vegan delights, burgers and other local secrets in our Ljubljana foodie guide - with all venues enriched with clickable links for your convenience. Find useful info on activities in Ljubljana, important information on Slovenia and exclusive insights on Ljubljana local life from amazing interviews with Slovenian culinary connoisseurs and food journalists. DOBER TEK IN NA ZDRAVJE! EDITOR’S NOTE ............................................................................................04 LJUBLJANA DRINK & DINE SCENE BREAKDOWN .......................... 07 FOODIE CATEGORIES EXPLAINED ........................................................ 13 VENUES ............................................................................................................19 INTERVIEWS .................................................................................................. 35 USEFUL LINKS ............................................................................................... 41 EDITOR’S NOTE Dear fellow foodie, As an avid traveller, I always liked leav- And I’m not talking about (just) in the ing Ljubljana, but also coming back. Af- sense of ethnic world cuisine. It was also ter soaking in all the foreign cuisine that every day lunch offer that was lacking was nowhere to be found in my city, it some innovation, inspiration, creativi- was nice to come back to the old and ty. A bland mix of traditional Slovenian familiar, at least for a while. That was up cuisine (mostly narrowed down to sau- until 5 years ago or so - when Ljubljana sage and other meat products, potato, finally opened up its gastronomic bor- grains, doughs, salads, fish and such ders and limitations. dishes), Italian, and maybe “Mexican” 4 www.ljubljananjam.si #ljubljananjam EDITOR’S NOTE EDITOR’S NOTE (as in tortillas) prevailed, and there was foodie, because we know your time not a lot room for something different. here is limited and we wish you to make How come things are looking com- the most of it. We’ve also included im- pletely different now? portant dates when some restaurants might be closed or have a special menu True, Instagram and other social me- prepared - it always helps to be updated dia - game changers also in the culinary about our customs and holidays (which world - were not as present back then, we take very seriously). You’ll also find but it was also people behind the tab- more in-depth glimpse into what’s letops that were, so it seemed, stuck going on in the city with interviews of in the very same routine. As well as us, prominent local gastronomic personas, eaters. Happy to serve and eat same and other hints to explore the yummy thing all over again, without desiring or side of the Alps with your tastebuds demanding something more. Not to say - also outside of the strict city centre it was bad quality - quite the contrary, I district, which does have the highest believe our food here was always highly percentage of listed venues, but it’s valued. But just deeply rooted in what on the outside that Ljubljana life really we knew for ages. happens. Fast forward to 2019, it is anything like We hope you will enjoy our little gift this. Vegan, gluten-free, lactose-free, for you for making the best decision aged steaks, LCHF lunches, wine & and booking a food tour with us. We craftbeer tastings, sourdough work- hope you will fall in love with Ljubljana’s shops, specialty coffee cuppings, chef cuisine like we did. And the best part? battles, signature dishes, restaurant I don’t have to travel anymore but the weeks, pop-up dinners, street food world has travelled to me. (Just kidding markets and more abound, and we - I will never stop travelling.) And that couldn’t be happier - or perhaps also makes it not only nice to return, but to confused. That’s why we‘ve created stay in Ljubljana. this mini guide to help you maneuver through the now-overwhelming Lju- Iva Gruden bljana cuisine, because even though LjubljanaYum founder & manager we’re a small city, there’s tons of tasty events going on. Intertwined with our dear old habits. In this booklet you will therefore find the places we’ve picked for you, dear www.ljubljananjam.si #ljubljananjam 5 LJUBLJANA DRINK & DINE SCENE BREAKDOWN LJUBLJANA DRINK & DINE SCENE BREAKDOWN Culinary survival guide themselves. You can also get it straight from the machine, slightly • Pick a table, wait to be served, and softer (tekoči sladoled). wave your fingers when you want the bill. We have table service with • Lunch is the big thing here, hence rare exceptions. that many lunch menus. It consists of soup, main dish, salad and dessert. • Value added tax (VAT) is already You can’t avoid salad. It will be served included in the bill. It is either 9,5 with every lunch menu. Yes we eat (food) or 22 % (service and luxury all that during our lunch break. items like alcohol and coffee). • In summertime, we love to drink • Tipping is not mandatory for small radler – shandy: a mix of lemonade expenses but it is always appreciated. and lager beer. They come in So if you were satisfied with the different flavours, such as grapefruit service, leave some cash and make and blood orange. Winelovers opt everyone happy. for spritz (špricer): white wine with soda. Younger generations • Coffee (kava) is considered love bambus (red wine + coke) or espresso but there is now lots of mishmash (red wine + fanta). True specialty coffee options (Chemex, story. cold brew etc). Milk is always 3,6% fat or veggie alternative (rice, soy, • Tea (čaj) for us is herbal: mint, almond, oat). Also, no free refill. chamomile, rosehip, mountain There is take away coffee, but we’re flowers, elderflower … If you want not big on it as in North America. black/green tea, ask for „real“ tea For some reason, the one at gas (pravi čaj). stations is phenomenal! Pro tip: try barley coffee, (ječmenova kava), a • No hard liquor is for sale before fantastic decaf alternative. 10am, and after 9pm in shops (in bars yes). • Ice coffee (ledena kava) means espresso with whipped cream and • Students enjoy special coupons for gelato. Don’t expect americano over certain (well, almost all) restaurants. ice. So don’t be surprised if you are offered a separate student menu • Our ice cream (sladoled) is if you look like one. (NB: They still gelato and mostly done by cafes keep asking us, 30-somethings, if we’re students … ) 8 www.ljubljananjam.si #ljubljananjam LJUBLJANA DRINK & DINE SCENE BREAKDOWN • Be prepared. Fish can be served with head. • Mulled wine comes as red and white. • At farmers markets, there is also foreign (mainly Italian) produce, so make sure you ask the vendor if they haven’t written so. It’s understood: Slovenia is too small to produce Thank you = hvala everything. You’re welcome / Please = prosim Do you serve traditional Slovenian • Open alcohol is OK. So go find your food? = Ali ponujate tradicionalne favourite bench and sip a glass. Just slovenske jedi? keep it classy. Table for two, please. = Mizo za dva, prosim. • Smoking indoors is not allowed since Sorry, where is the toilet? = oprostite, 2007. Anywhere outside (patios, kje je wc? parks) is OK. A latte, please. = Kavo z mlekom, prosim. Could you bring me the wine list, Talk like a local foodie please? = Mi lahko prinesete vinsko karto, prosim? Water = voda Is there any Slovenian craftbeer on Coffee / espresso = kava / espresso offer? = Ali ponujate slovensko butično Tea = čaj pivo? Wine (White / Red) = vino (belo / Is this dish vegetarian? = Je ta jed rdeče) vegetarijanska? Beer (Light / Dark) = pivo (svetlo / I don’t eat gluten. = Ne jem glutena. temno) I’m allergic to milk and dairy Starter = predjed products. = Alergičen / Alergična sem Main course = glavna jed na mleko in mlečne izdelke. Dessert = sladica Enjoy your meal! = Dober tek! Soup = juha Yum, it’s really delicious! = Mmm, res Pasta = testenine je dobro! Risotto = rižota Receipt, please! = Račun, prosim! Salad = solata It’s all good, keep the change. = Je že Drinks = pijača v redu, razliko kar obdržite. www.ljubljananjam.si #ljubljananjam 9 LJUBLJANA DRINK & DINE SCENE BREAKDOWN Important holidays Foodie dates to in Slovenia (when you can expect remember certain restaurants to be closed): • martinovo (St. Martin’s day): • January 1st & 2nd – New Year’s day November 11 and both Saturdays (alternative: hike and enjoy the food before and after this date. Mark: up in the mountains, ice skating, St. Martin’s goose, red cabbage and cinema) mlinci (special type of pasta). • February 8th – France Prešeren • pust (carnival): 40 days before culture day (alternative: hike or visit Easter, in February / March. Mark: all the galleries and museums which donuts. are free this day) • velika noč (Easter): Easter Monday, • April 27th – Day of uprising against
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