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Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, the Creative Team Behind KENZO, Explain How They Used Photography to Reinvigorate the Iconic Brand

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Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, the Creative Team Behind KENZO, Explain How They Used Photography to Reinvigorate the Iconic Brand RE BIRTH OF A BRAND Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, the creative team behind KENZO, explain how they used photography to reinvigorate the iconic brand. Jessica Gordon reports 40 Shooting on Assignment: KENZO Shooting on Assignment: KENZO 41 040-049_05.15_BJP.indd 40 15/03/2016 13:37 040-049_05.15_BJP.indd 41 15/03/2016 13:37 42 Shooting on Assignment: KENZO Shooting on Assignment: KENZO 43 040-049_05.15_BJP.indd 42 15/03/2016 13:37 040-049_05.15_BJP.indd 43 15/03/2016 13:37 4 3 44 Shooting on Assignment: KENZO Shooting on Assignment: KENZO 45 040-049_05.15_BJP.indd 44 15/03/2016 13:37 040-049_05.15_BJP.indd 45 15/03/2016 13:37 1 A shot from KENZO’s autumn/ 3 A shot from KENZO’s spring/ 6 A shot from KENZO’s spring/ winter 2013/14 campaign, shot summer 2015 campaign, shot summer 2013 campaign, shot by Toiletpaper, aka Maurizio by Toiletpaper. by Jean-Paul Goude. Cattelan and Pierpaolo Ferrari. 4 Images from the lookbook for 7 Shots from KENZO’s spring/ 2 A shot by Laetitia Hotte showing KENZO’s resort 2014 collection, summer 2012 campaign – the 10-year-old Dizzie dressed in shot by Jamie Hawkesworth. first that Carol Lim and Humberto clothes from the KENZO Kids’ Leon directed for the brand – shot spring/summer 2015 collection. 5 A shot from Synchrodogs’ story by Roe Ethridge. The story was published on for the KENZO’s website, which KENZO’s website in May 2015. used the autumn/winter 2013/14 All images © KENZO collection and was published in November 2013. It’s a rare bird that can revitalise a brand by photographer Roe Ethridge to shoot their At this point, I think they would challenge us 5 reshaping its visual identity – and an even first campaign for the brand, spring/summer if we did something normal.” rarer one that can do so while pasting sticky 2012 [page 49]. “We’re really attracted to fine eyeballs on a model. But for kenzo, the fashion artists, and various younger artists,” Leon says. Creative directions house created by French-Japanese designer “For our first campaign with Roe, we came up Since then, the kenzo team has tapped into Kenzō Takada in the early 1980s, Carol Lim with a strong concept that we still love to this a series of photographers whose work has and Humberto Leon were just those birds. The day. It was a presentation, so we shot the ad the right kind of vibe, including left-field duo were invited to take over kenzo’s creative campaign in a way that reflected that.” emerging photographers such as Synchrodogs direction in 2011 by its parent company Graphically charged, the images feature and Philippe Jarrigeon, and imagemakers LVMH, the French luxury goods conglomerate, models propped and kneeling on metal better known for their fine art, such as after turning their concept store, Opening scaffolding, all anchored by the kenzo logo. Lorenzo Vitturi, and inviting them to shoot Ceremony – set up in 2002 with a $20,000 loan “That first collection was executed and editorial-style stories for kenzo’s website, as – into a multi-million dollar success. photographed within six weeks, factoring well as more traditional ad campaigns. “It “We had worked on Opening Ceremony in the August holiday, when everyone in really is from our curiosity,” Lim says. “We go for almost 10 years, so when we had the France is on vacation,” Lim says. “It marked to [music] shows and say, ‘Oh, who did the opportunity to work on kenzo – at the time the beginning of our chapter... like us saying, cover for that album?’ Or we’ll see something our first foray into advertising, runway shows ‘We’re going to approach this our own way.’” super random and be like, ‘Whoa, I wonder if and visibility on a branding level – we wanted For Ethridge, who worked on the they’d be interested in trying a shoot for us.’” to challenge the norm,” Leon says. “We said, shoot with stylist Marie Chaix, the idea “We like to explore and try new things,” ‘What can we do that would inject something was a fresh take on the classic, commercial agrees Leon. “For a lot of other brands, there’s completely different and off-kilter as you’re image – a white backdrop and punchy a singular vision. We feel like our brand is so flipping through a magazine but still have the graphics. “We were playing with ideas where much more diverse; we like seeing different attributes of the brand we were building?’” the logo could interact with the silhouettes,” artists and people move in and out. There Leon got his start in visual Ethridge says. “The girls were incredible are times when we use one artist repeatedly merchandising and Lim graduated with and they each brought something to the to re-enhance the story, and there are times a degree in economics and worked in image I couldn’t have directed. They were when we bring in somebody totally new and investment banking. Their 8th floor office essentially in character and killing it.” young, or legendary and experienced. We like in Manhattan’s Chinatown is unassuming, Lim and Leon also brought graphic to play around with what the product is and with many of their 35 employees poring over designer Juan Gatti onto the set to lend a hand what would feel freshest to us.” spreadsheets, and an open storage cupboard on the creative direction, and Ethridge says Lim and Leon teamed up with Ukrainian full of boxes labelled things like ‘FW15 the result was a group effort. “It’s so satisfying photo-duo Tania Shcheglova and Roman Women’ and ‘Russia’. It’s clear the office is the when those collaborations are better than Noven of Synchrodogs to create a story with place for organisation, storage and planning, the ideas you start off with,” he says. the autumn/winter 2013/14 collection for and that, above all, the team driving it is This first campaign was a success, giving the kenzo website published in November incredibly business-savvy. But Lim and Leon the designer duo the momentum to realise a 2013, for example, which they shot in a rented are also rightly known for their creativity, and dream – shooting with photography legend Paris apartment. Using patterned fabrics and their ability to translate their taste in art and Jean-Paul Goude. The autumn/winter 2012/13 wallpaper, the duo built all the sets themselves music into customer experience. campaign was Goude’s first collaboration and used them to create a richly textured “Culture is one of the foundations for with a clothing brand, but the result went set of images [opposite]. “The collection we what we build at both brands, so photography down so well he was invited back to shoot shot was full of patterns and elements, so our is one of the cultural aspects we like to explore. the next [page 48]: fun, vibrant and quirky, goal was to organically blend it all with even For kenzo, there’s a history to the brand, and these campaigns solidified kenzo’s new voice, more patterns and elements,” Shcheglova in many ways we’re trying to dedicate the and LVHM approved. explains. “The only difficulty was finding the history to the founder in a way that is through “In some ways, LVHM doesn’t understand right combinations, which meant checking our lens and hands. It’s sifted through our soul, what we’re doing, but they’ve grown to love it. thousands of fabrics to find the ones suited but with him in mind,” Leon says. “We’re the They feel like it has such a strong handwriting. to kenzo’s clothes. Our style is based so common thread,” says Lim “so the process is In our rebranding efforts, we’ve retold the much on colours and textures; I guess there is the same, but storywise it’s very distinct.” language of what’s us, and the brand is doing something similar in the kenzo concept.” They made a bold start with kenzo’s phenomenally. [Going into a concept, we ask For Lim and Leon, the common factor direction, choosing New York-based fine art ourselves] is it invigorating, exciting, energetic? among all the photographers they commission 46 Shooting on Assignment: KENZO Shooting on Assignment: KENZO 47 040-049_05.15_BJP.indd 46 15/03/2016 13:37 040-049_05.15_BJP.indd 47 15/03/2016 13:37 7 is the strength of their vision – they look for collaborators with a strong point of view, says Lim. “If we didn’t let their style come through, then we would take the pictures ourselves,” Lim says. “If you look at the recent editorials and photographers we’ve used, a lot are focused on real people in certain scenes that feel different yet still feel very kenzo.” Their collaboration with Maurizio Cattelan and Pierpaolo Ferrari, the brains “There are times when we use one artist behind Toiletpaper magazine, and its art director Micol Talso, is a case in point: repeatedly to re-enhance the story, working with the kenzo team, Cattelan and Ferrari also produced Kenzine, a limited- and there are times when we bring in edition magazine marrying Toiletpaper’s somebody totally new and young, or kitschy concept art with kenzo’s autumn/ winter 2013/14 products. One noteworthy legendary and experienced. We like to image shows a rogue leg popping through the bottom of a pink door wearing one of kenzo’s play around with what the product is and $245 Crazy Tiger trainers [page 41], and was what would feel freshest to us” used as a campaign ad.
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