TAD 121: Fundamentals of Construction 3(1+2) Course teacher- Dr. Sonu Mehta Theory S.No. Topic No. of Classes 1 Terminology related to clothing construction 1 2 Sewing tools and equipments required for measuring, drafting, cutting and 2 stitching 3 Selection and preparation of fabric for garment construction 1 4 Layout of paper pattern, marking, cutting and stay stitching 1 5 Unit construction method Importance and function of clothes 1 6 Socio- economic and psychological factors affecting clothing choices 1 7 Consumer behaviour and motivation 1 8 Clothing requirements of different age groups:  Infant & Toddler, 1  Pre-schooler, 1  School age children, 1  Teenager, 1  adolescent, 1  Adult and Senior citizen 1 9 Application of elements and principles of art in apparel designing 2 Total 16

Practical

S.No. Topic No. of Classes 1 Demonstration on:  Sewing equipments and tools, 1  Sewing machine and its care. 1 2 Preparation of samples:  Hand stitches; basting, -stitching, hemming, smocking, over 8 casting, attaching fastener and button holing, mending and patching 8  Machine stitches; seam and seam finishes, pleats, gathers and tucks, stay stitch, under stitching, placket opening 3 Demonstration on taking body measurements 2 4 Preparation of fabric for cutting, and layout of paper pattern on different 3 fabrics patterns including plain, print, lines, plaid and check. 5 Drafting, cutting and stitching of different garments: i. Baby frock 2 ii. Panty 2 iii. Bloomer 2 iv. 3 Total 32 TAD 221: Finishes, and Printing 2(1+1) Course teacher- Meenakshi Mishra Objectives: 1. To impart the knowledge of textile used on different fabrics. 2. To acquire knowledge of dyeing and printing processes used in . 3. To develop the aesthetic sense in decorating the textiles. 4. To develop skill of dyeing and printing techniques. Theory S.No. Topic No. of Classes 1 Textile finishing: Definition and its importance 1 2 Classification of textile finishes: Chemical, mechanical, temporary, 1 permanent, durable, renewable, semi permanent, reactive and additive finishes 3 Processes of removing impurities from fabrics: Scouring, desizing, 1 degumming, carbonizing, souring 4 Basic finishes that alter hand or texture: /milling, felting, singeing, 1 stiffening, decatizing 5 Surface finishes: Bleaching, delustering, , , napping, 2 flocking, burnt out design, acid design, plisse design, tentering, shearing and brushing 6 Functional finishes: Water proof and water repellent finish, shrinkage 2 control, wrinkle resistance, anti-static finish, anti-microbial finish, durable press and flame retardant finish 7 Dyes and pigments, classification of dyes 1 8 Application of dyes: direct, acid, basic, vat, azoic, mordant, sulphur, 2 reactive and disperse dyes 9 Dyeing techniques and equipment: Solution dyeing, fibre dyeing; tow 2 and stock dyeing, dyeing; skein and package dyeing and piece dyeing 10 Styles of printing: Direct, discharge and resist printing, 1 11 Printing methods and equipment: Block, screen, stencil, roller, heat 2 transfer printing, tie and dye and Total 16

Practical

S.No. Topic No. of Classes 1 Finishing of fabric Scouring Bleaching Mercerization 2 2 Tying and dyeing of cotton fabric with direct dye 2 3 Fabric designing by batik technique with napthol dye 3 4 Printing of cotton fabric using different methods Block 2 Stencil 3 Screen 3 Heat transfer 1 Total 16 TAD 321 Traditional Textiles and Costumes of India 3 (2+1) Course teacher- Dr. Rupal Babel

Objectives: 1. To gain knowledge of the traditional textiles prevalent in India 2. To study about the various embroideries of India. Theory

S.No. Topic No. of Classes 1 Traditional woven textiles of India 1 2 History of woven textiles: Dacca , , Printing 2 3 Traditional sarees of India , Baluchari, Pochampalli, Patola and 3 Ikat, Kanjivaram, Chanderi, Maheshwari, Bomkai, Sambhalpuri, Vichitrapuri, Paithani, Kota Doria, Gadwal, Irkal, Venkatagiri, Narayanpet, Kasavu, Tanchoi and Sarees. 4 Traditional woven and embroidered of India:  Shawls of Kashmir, 1  Himachal Pradesh, 1  Gujarat, 1  North Eastern States and other states 1 5 Printed and painted textiles Printed textiles Block printed textiles:  Dabu printing, 1  Bagru printing & Sangane printing, 1  Bagh printing 1  Tie and dyed textiles of Rajasthan and Gujarat 1

6 Painted textiles:  , 1  Madhubani, 1  Warli, 1  Patchitra, 1  Phad and Pichhavai. 1 7 Embroideries of different states of India:  Kashida of Kashmir, 1  Chamba Rumal, 1  Chikankari and Zari work of Uttar Pradesh, 1  Phulkari and Bagh of Punjab, 1  Embroideries of Gujarat, 1  Kantha of Bengal, 1  Manipuri Embroidery, 1 1  Kasuti of , 1

 Embroidery and Rabari work of Bihar, 1  Pipli work of Orissa 8 Importance of traditional textiles in textile and apparel industry 1 9 Importance and market scenario of traditional Indian textiles and their 1 impact on modern textiles industry 10 Geographical Indications obtained for traditional Indian textiles 1 Total 32

Practical

S.No. Topic No. of Classes 1 Documentation of motifs of traditional Indian embroideries 2 2 Sample preparation of traditional Indian embroideries 7 3 Documentation of woven textiles of India. 3 4 Creative projects in the adaptation of traditional motifs and designs in 3 contemporary textiles through collection of samples, sketches and development of scrap book 5 Visit to museum and art galleries 1 Total 16

Lecture Schedule, MSc. And Phd. Semester-II, 2019-20 TAD 521 ADVANCED TEXTILE DESIGNING 3(1+2) Objective: To develop knowledge about different , types of weaves, analyze different weave patterns and learn principles of creating design through Course Teacher : Prof. Sudha Babel

TheoryTopics No of lectures UNIT I  Shuttle less looms- projectile, 1  Rapier, air jet, water jet weaving; 1  Multiple-shed , 1  Automatic controls in modern looms & 1  Scope of modern methods of weaving; 1  Detailed pre-weaving processes. 1 UNIT II  Study of design, draft & peg plan for different weaves; 1  Weave calculations; 1  Advantages & disadvantages. 1 UNIT III  Complex & fancy structures – 1  Leno, crepe, double cloth,  Honey comb, mock-leno, 1  Diamond, dobby, 1  Warp and weft figuring, 1  Terry and , huck –a-back 1 UNIT IV  Dobby & jacquard patterning devices; 1  Methods of making carpets 1 Total 16 Practical  Weaving- Preparation of draft plans, 4  Peg plans etc. For all weaves ; 4  Analysis of woven samples ; 3  Weaving samples of various weave ; 4  Developing designs for weaving- 2  Motif preparation and placement, 4  Colour and texture plans; 2  Documentation of traditional& modified textile designs and 2  Development of library. 4 Total 32 Suggested Readings Grosicik 1975. Watson’s Textile Design & Colour. Butterworths. Grosick ZJ. 1980. Watson’s Advanced Textile Design. Universal Publ. Grosick ZJ. 1989. Watson’s Advanced Textile Design - Compound Woven Structures. Universal Publ. TAD 522 ADVANCED PATTERN MAKING 3(1+2) Course teacher- Dr. Rupal Babel

Theory

S.No. Topic Lectures 1 Advanced techniques of pattern making 1 2 Incorporating style lines 1 3 Incorporating fullness. 1 4 Principles of contouring 1 5 Surplice/off shoulder design 1 6 Halter designs 1 7 Built-in necklines 1 8 Cowls and collars. 1 9 1 10 Advanced sleeve variations 1 11 Exaggerated armholes 1 12 Pockets 1 13 Bias cut . 1 14 1 15 Types of pants 1 16 Pattern adoption to knits 1 16

Practical

S.No. Topic Lectures 1 Procedures used in the development of slopers and 2 patterns 2 Developing dartless slopers 3 3 variations 3 4 2 5 Halters and surplice 4 6 Vests and their types 2 7 Collars 3 8 Sleeves- kimono and raglan variations 3 9 Skirts 3 10 Pants- pant length variations 2 11 bell bottom pants, body fitting pants, and other 3 types; 12 application of pattern making techniques to garment 2 designing and construction. 32

TAD 523 draping and custom clothing 3(0+3)

Course teacher-Dr. Meenu Srivastava Objectives: 1. To enable students to make pattern from sketch/photograph. 2. To enable them to obtain perfect fit and harmony between the fabric and design of the garment.

S.N Topic No. of classes Practical 1. Understanding principles of draping, trueing and blocking 2 2. Draping of bodice with different dart positions and yokes. 3 3. Developing blouse designs with cowls, circular flounces and ruffles 6 4. Draping collars-Mandarin collar, collar, peter pan collar 6 5. Draping and stitching of skirts 6 6. Draping blouse design – dartless 4 7. Draping blouse design –surplice front 4 8. Draping blouse design –bustier 3 9. Draping knits-basic knit bodice/dress or knit halter 3 10 Draping of designer formal dress 3 11 Draping of sculptured dress 4 12 Designing custom clothing –analysis and presentation 4 Total 48

TAD 524 Home Textiles 3(1+2) Course teacher-Dr. Rupal babel Objectives: 1. To develop awareness among students about different home textiles and furnishings. 2. To acquaint students about selection, care and maintenance of different home textiles.

S.N Topic No. of classes Theory 1. Home textiles-Introduction, classification, market of home textile and 1 furnishings 2. History and evolution of home textiles and furnishings, Importance and 2 functions of home textiles and furnishings 3. Study of various household textiles and furnishing in terms of fibre content, 1 yarn type, weave, design, etc. Properties and application areas. 4. Nonwoven furnishing materials 1 5. Study of various styles of furnishing and accessories. 1 6. Selection, care and maintenance of- Bed 2 7. Selection, care and maintenance of-Upholstery and furnishing materials 1 8. Selection, care and maintenance of- table cloth, napkins, towels, bath mats,etc 1 9 Selection, care and maintenance of-curtains and draperies 2 10 Selection, care and maintenance of-carpets and floor coverings 2 11 Types and role of underlining in draperies 1 Total 16 Practical 1 Market survey to study variety of bed linenand kitchen linens available in 4 different fibre content, designs and weave finish. 2 Market survey to study variety of upholstery materials and readymade 4 furnishing products available in different fibre content, designs and weave finish. 3 Market survey to study curtains and drperies available in different fibre 4 content, designs and weave finish. 4 Market survey to study types and variety of floor coverings available. 4 5 Development of scrap file of different fabric swatches collected during market 4 survey and its description. 6 Project work-development of creative home textile product ,preparation of 12 theme board , project report and presentation of report. Total 32

Suggested readings: 1. Rutt Anna Hong.1967. Home furnishings.JHohn Wiley & Sons. 2. Billian,J.1986. The sift furnishing book. Cornan Octopus. 3. Pat Jones.1979. Creative sewing-Household . A studio Vista Book.

TAD 621 TEXTILE ECOLOGY 3(3+0) Course teacher- Dr. Rupal Babel

Theory S.No. Topic Lectures 1 Industrialization, eco-balance and textile ecology. . 6 2 Air, noise and water pollution by mechanical and 6 chemical textile processing and their effect 3 Treatment and disposal of textile effluents. . 4 4 Treatment processers of sewage 4 5 Health hazards of textile workers working in varius 6 textile units and their remedial measures. 6 Banned dyes and auxiliaries 4 7 Eco-friendly production and processing to textiles with 6 special reference to organic and naturally coloured cotton, natural dyes and detergents etc. 8 Indian and International environmental legislations. 6 9 Eco labeling, management and auditing 6 48

TAD 622 Sourcing & globalization 3(2+1) Course teacher-Dr. Meenu Srivastava Objectives: 1. To develop the knowledge among students about key issues of globalization in reference to Indian textile industry. 2. To acquaint students about different govt. policies for holistic growth of Indian textile industry.

S.N Topic No. of classes Theory 1. Supply chain management in Textiles & Apparel- definition, importance, activities, 2 functions, basic components of supply chain 2. Supply chain management in Textiles & Apparel- principles and role in branding 4 3. Understanding key issues facing Textile and Apparel Designing businesses in global 4 markets-macro and micro issues. 4. Evaluation of key issues facing Textile businesses in global markets considering ethical, 4 economic, political environment, social and professional implications. 5. Evaluation of key issues facing apparel Designing businesses in global markets considering 4 ethical, economic, political, social and professional implications. 6. Developments in textile & apparel industries before and after phasing out quota system 4 7. Recent trends in major exporting countries- trade policies ,integrated strategies towards 4 fair globalization, improving competitiveness and social responsibility in the industry.

8. Actions, policies and shared responsibilities –role of govt. manufacturers,buyers,trade 6 unions and MNCs Total 32 Practical 1 Project report on-demographics related to textiles of various countries before and after 4 phasing out quota 2 Project report on- Analysis of opportunities and extent of utilization by the leading 4 countries –sourcing options considering quality,production capabilities, worker’s rights and trade policies,legal compliance,logistics,etc. 3 Project report on-supply chain management in textiles and apparel industry-flow diagram 4 of supply system in different countries and analysis…… 4 Project work based on secondary data 4 Total 16

TAD 624 TEXTILE CONSERVATION 3(2+1) Objective: To develop the awareness about textiles conservation and skill in assessment of damage, repair and stabilization of textiles.

Course Teacher : Prof. Sudha Babel

Theory Topics No. of Lectures UNIT I Importance of textile conservation; 1 Various methods for analysis of textiles – 1 Fibre content, 1 Yarn & fabric structure. 2 UNIT II Damage to textiles – pests, micro organisms etc.; 1 Condition assessment, 1 Repair, and stabilization of textiles and 1 Apparels in museum collections. 2 Textiles Pests and their control. 1 UNIT III Textiles in museum environment – 1 Basic control of museum environment – 1 Relative humidity, dirt, 1 Sulphur dioxide, other pollutants in air, 1 Light, deterioration of museum textiles. 1 UNIT IV Principles of cleaning fragile textiles; 1 Effect of composition and colorant on Textile cleaning – acid, basic, direct, mordant and developed dyes. 2 Effect of soil on cleaning – air removable and wet cleanable soil, 1 Physical and mechanical aids to cleaning- Preparation for cleaning, selection of cleansing Medium-dry, aqueous, wet solvent cleaning. 3 Cleansing techniques – soaking, sponging, Brushing, tumbling and jet action, 2 Resoiling, rinsing, extraction, drying and finishing. 2 Proper conditions for display of various textiles – 1 Curtains, bedsheets, flat fabrics, carpets, tapestries etc. 2 Impact of light, pollution, humidity, external and Internal hazards. 2

Total 32 Practical  Visit to a museum and study of various textile conservation methods; 4  Analysis of aged textiles - fiber content, yarn & fabric structure;  Assessment of damage 4  Repair and stabilization of textiles; 4  Exposure to cleaning techniques; 2  Project work; 2 Total 16 Suggested Readings Harris J. (Ed.). 1993. Five Thousand Years of Textiles. British Museum. Leene JE. 1972. Textile Conservation. Butterworths. Williams JC. 1977. Preservation of Paper and Textiles of Historic and Artistic Value. American Chemicals Society.