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ISSN: 2455-3220 International Journal for Social Studies Available at Volume 04 Issue 02 https://edupediapublications.org/journals February 2018

Innovation of Fascinated Garments from Traditional Fabrics

D. Anita Rachel¹, Satheesh.Y² 1Assistant Professor, Department of Apparel Manufacturing and Merchandising, Nift – Tea College Of Knitwear and Research Scholar Department of Rural Industries and Management , Gandhigram Rural Institute-Deemed University, Gandhigram- Dindigul, Tamil Nadu, (1526P0045), 2B.Sc(AMM)Nift – Tea College Of Knitwear Fashion, Tirupur, Tamil Nadu, India

Abstract traditional occasion in Kerala is complete This Project is to innovative of without people wearing traditional Fascinated garments from Kerala into Garments traditional saree in to the fancy garment. Keywords: Woven fabrics, Solitary Woven fabrics are made by using eight set garments, Warp , Weft yarns, Kasavu of weave structure with the change of Saree into Fascinated Garments settings in machine more sets of interlaced at right angles to each 1 Introduction other. Much variety is produced by A very large number of are located in weaving. Woven fabrics are generally more rural areas. The rhythm of handloom can be durable. A is a cloth which is either heard in almost every village in Kerala. woven by hand or machine. “Textile” has traditionally meant “a ’’. The 1.1Weaving: term textile comes from the latin word Weaving process is a method of fabric “texere”, means to weave, a textile is production in which two distinct sets of anything that is made up of , yarn, or yarns or threads are interlaced at right fabrics. Most are produced by angles to form a fabric or cloth. twisting fibers into yarns and then 1.2 Importance of handloom in Kerala or weaving the yarns into a fabric. Kerala Kerala, the greenish land lies between the Kasavu Saree – a glorious tradition; hand- western ghat and Arabian sea, about 15000 woven cream colored saree with square miles with varying scenic beauty. border. From the land of ‘God’s own Kerala is known as the epitome of India. country’, Kasavu emerges as one of the Historically Kerala has long been a land of finest traditional sarees which define the racial admixture and co-existence. The mile essence of beauty of every woman in stone in Kerala's history is that by first Kerala. Kerala’s handloom products have Christian church, first Muslim masque and caught the imagination of the world. first synagogue were established in Kerala. Kasavu is considered to be the most A number of historically important Hindu auspicious attire for women in Kerala. temples can be seen in Kerala. Tolerance Kerala women are known to be traditional and cosmopolitan outlook are the and simple, yet are modern and gorgeous. characteristics of a "Keralite". This may be Kerala Kasavu Sarees bear a stamp of the attributed to the religious and trade contact unique culture and tradition and are which existed for centuries with outside distinct from other Indian sarees. No India. Handcrafted handloom weaving,

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Ivory works, weaving of are well is also an important handloom centre in known heritage of kerala. Kerala handloom Kerala. Here they have been producing the industry carries a vital role in states double and '' and 'Neriyathu'. economy as well as in the field of The distinction of these fabrics is in its employment. There are men and women structure in the plain structure, they have weavers for whom weaving is a way of life. producing a special effect in weft direction. In early days majority of handloom weavers 2.1KERALA HANDLOOM FABRICS followed the hereditary line. The main Kerala follows its own tradition of textiles communities engaged in weaving are saliyas and hence it is referred to as 'God's own and devang as Earlier they were producing country'. The culture and traditions of cloth for their own consumption and for the Kerala are exhibited in the Sarees of this need of their village. state which cannot be witnessed anywhere 1.2 Objectives else in the country. The ladies wearing Kerala Sarees have a feel of elegance from  To produced different types weave within because of their unique off and different colors in single fabric color along with golden border and the  To make Solitary Garment natural texture. It won’t be exaggerating to say that almost every lady consists  To make Ladies Gorgeous long of at least one sari manufactured in Kerala. length Maxi . As per the tradition of Kerala, women here are found to be wearing a dress known as 2 Review of 'settu mundu', which is also referred to as '' having natural color Cloth is usually woven on a , a device of body and different beautiful shades of that holds the warp threads in place while border. After wearing this two piece cloth, filling threads are woven through them. A one gets a get up of a saree. The significant fabric band which meets this definition of part about the Kerala saree is that they are cloth (warp threads with a weft thread woven by hands and used is 100% winding between) can also be made using unbleached. other methods, including tablet weaving, back-strap, or other techniques without The traditional pallus of the sarees add looms. The way the warp and filling threads grace to them and usually the saree of interlace with each other is called the Kerala consists of 1-7 inch pallu whereas weave. The majority of woven products are the rest of the body is found plain. There are created with one of three basic beautifully decorated designs of prints such weaves: plain weave, weave, or . as flowers and peacocks found on the one Woven cloth can be plain (in one color or a meter pallu and can be availed in stripes, simple pattern), or can be woven in checks along with a number of designs decorative or artistic designs. found in cotton or mixed with . The 'Kasavu Sarees' which are being 2.2 History of Kasavu Saree produced here is mostly with halffine Set Sari resembles the set Mundu very jeri.The middle class people would like to closely. The Set mundu is the traditional purchase this sarees because of its of Kerala that originated from the cheapness. The price of a saree can be Sattika variety found in the Jainism and reduced from Rs.5000 to 1000 by using half Buddhism. Till date, the set Mundu is fine jeri instead of pure jeri. observed as traditional form of clothing in Chendamangalam, in the Kerala. Textiles in Kerala have been present

Available online: http://edupediapublications.org/journals/index.php/IJSS/ P a g e | 69 ISSN: 2455-3220 International Journal for Social Studies Available at Volume 04 Issue 02 https://edupediapublications.org/journals February 2018

since the British era. A very predominant 3.1Process Flow Chart textile that is famous across the globe is the Raw Yarn Curing - Washing Warp - Weft textile known for the beautiful cotton Preparation Sizing Drawing through healds and other fabrics it materializes. It has been - reed Weaving Quality - Checking Finished running in the city of Calicut Kerala since Product – Maxi Ladies Garment the 11th century. The mundum-neryathum is the extant form 3.2 Quality of Fabric of the ancient saree referred to as "Sattika" Quality is very important for all types of in Buddhist and Jain literature.[3] The fabric and textiles. There are some mundu is the surviving form of lower important topics given blow about quality of garment of the ancient clothing referred to fabric. as worn in a special way (lower 3.2.1 Quality Parameters of Woven, garment).[4] The neriyath is the modern Knitted and Non-woven Fabrics adaptation of a thin worn from the Generally to test the quality parameters of right shoulder to the left shoulder referred woven, knitted and non-woven fabric, the to in ancient Buddhist-Jain texts as the fabric must be conditioning at 24 hours in .[4][5] It is one of the remains of the the standard testing atmosphere. It is very pre-Hindu Buddhist-Jain culture that once important for all types of fabric. flourished in Kerala and other parts of 3.2.2 Quality Parameters of Woven . The narrow borders along the Fabrics mundum neriyathum drape are probably an there are some quality parameters of woven adaptation of the Graeco-Roman costume fabric are as follows; called "palmyrene". In the palmyrene 3.2.3 Dimensional characteristics costume, the piece of cloth known as Ladies Saree: "palla" was a long piece of unstitched cloth  Feet – 6 with a coloured border and was worn over a long garment, pinned at the left shoulder.[4]  Thickness – 1.3mm The tradition of coloured borders along the present day mundum neryathum or pallu Weight of fabric: might have been influenced by the Graeco-  GSM of - 100 GSM Roman "Palla" or Palmyrene. The had flourishing overseas trade with  Weft count: 2/120’s the Mediterranean world since antiquity. 4 Results and Discussion However, the pallu in its modern form was 4.1 Introduction not in common use until very recently. In fact, as late as the 1970s, some populations Garments inspection and testing are in Kerala still did not use the pallu as the upper garment. the important parts of the garments quality control department. Both are essential for 3 Methodologies smooth and regular execution of an . Sometimes we make a confused between FABRICATION DETAILS garments inspection and testing. Now I WARP would like to a brief discuss about these YARN = 40S important topics. WEFT YARN =40S This chapter introduces the student to the fabric structures of A poles apart

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weave structure in solitary garment – Ladies look, feel, effects and cost of the Long Gentle wear. The type of weave used production, before any recommendation of in a fabric depends upon the desired factors the weaves is done. This chapter in brief such texture, luster, strength, pattern, color, gave an idea to the students about the various fabric structures that they are going to study in the forthcoming chapters. The three basic structures are Plain, Twill and Weave. All other weaves are the usually a permutations and combinations many weave structures by varying the settings in the machine. Chart – 1 – Survey of the fascinated garment made from the Kasvu saree towards the different age group is as follows,

4.2 Difference between Garments Inspection and Garments Testing:

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Chart – 2 – Survey of the fascinated garment made from the Kasvu saree Towards the different no of responses of

Garments Garments S/L Substance Inspection Texting It is the process of Inspection can be defined as visual evaluation the quality of 01 Definition examination or review of material. goods by specific standard. Garments inspection should be based Garments testing should be on a specific specification for specific based on some standard test products such as size measurement for method to compare the 02 Based on a specific . result. In garments inspection is a continuous In garments testing is not a 03 Process process. continuous process. Here follow hard and fast rules of standard for Follow a few common rules of garments 04 Follow standard for garments inspection. testing. In this process number of Number of In this process number of errors is errors is lower 05 errors higher than garments texting. than garments inspection. This is done by randomly process Here, specific size of Size of therefore, no need specific size of sample is needed for 06 sample sample for garments inspection. garments testing. This is time consuming process therefore, higher Inspection is a time saving process time required Time therefore, lower time required for for garments texting 07 required garments inspection process. process. Raw material inspection, In process ISO, BIS, ASTM, BSTI are inspection, final inspection are the example of garments 08 Example the examples of garments inspection. testing. various age groups is as follows, In this fashion industry the above garment is a new approach in the weaving 5 Conculsion Industry. A new in particular has come a long way and has grown into one of the largest industries in the world. Computer is a technology, which has generated great excitement in many branches of textile industry. illustrations really started during the 90s as more affordable and capable technology made, it possible for illustrators to experiment with this fledging form writes Tallon (2008). Library has a collection of books, newspapers, videos and music kept for people to read, use or

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borrow. Design library helps the user to [2] Mani, P.S. (July 2006), Cluster recollect and reuse the designs with or Development Executive, HANVEEV, without modifications. This is an age of Kannur, Kerala, “Diagnostic Study of information technology and as on date Handloom Cluster” design libraries do not exist in the digital format. It is a routine practise for people in Mateer, Samuel (2005), “Njnan Kanda different walks of life to view designs. If the Keralam” (), p. 322- 326 designs are presented in the digital format, the following groups of people will be highly benefitted. The members of [3] , Pattom G. Ramachandran field can visually present the (1996), “Thiruvananthapurathinte students the nuances of garment styles and Ethihasom” (Malayalam) p. 589 the use this as a teaching aid to show the

effect of colours and textures on different personalities. The fashion designing [4] N.S. Gopalakrishnan, Prabha S. Nair students will avail an enriched knowledge on garments at the click of a . The & Aravind K. Babu (August 2007), Cochin textile and garment manufacturer can use University of and Technology, this as way to promote their business by Cochin, Kerala, India: “Exploring the presenting their fabrics on different garment Relationship between Geographical styles without physically making a garment. Indications and Traditional Knowledge” Orders can be approved by internet or visual

presentation. Retail textile and garment showrooms / tailors can replace catalogs [5] R. Sen Gupta (1956), “Yarn with digital design which reduces the cost of preparing and maintaining catalogs for Preparation” Vol. I & II Saraswathy every season. It will be very useful for the Nagarajan, Indian Express (August 29, consumer to select and purchase garments 1998), in showrooms and also for placing orders for garment designs with the tailor. Thus to conclude the Rib is in good Texture [6] “Woven Sunshine” Seemanthini and high strength. Niranjana & Soumya Vinayan (2001),

Dastkar Andhra, “Report on Growth and 6 References Prospects of the Handloom Industry” [1] Aiya, Nagam. V (1906), Shungoonny Menon, P (1878), “History of “ State Manual”, Vol. I, P. 417- Travancore from the Earliest Times”, p. 454 (reprinted in 1999) Kerala Economic 354-357 Review 2007, Kerala Planning Board, Govt. of Kerala Kerala Gazetteer Department (1989), “Kerala State Gazetteer”, Vol. III, p. [7] Sreedhara Menon, A (1962), (e), 340-348 “District Gazetteer of Trivandrum”, , Trivandrum, p.210 - 218, 388-390, 770 The Handloom Export Promotion Council, India (1991), Indian Hand Woven Textiles, “Source Book” The

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Handloom Export Promotion Council, India (1991), Indian Hand Woven Textiles, “Product Manual” Velu Pillai, T.K. (1940), “Travancore State Manual” p. 446- 501, 543- 546.

[8] www.ihttkerala.org e.g. Jeffreys, Julius (1858), The British Army in India: Its Preservation by an appropriate Clothing, Housing, Locating, Recreative Employment, and Hopeful Encouragement of the Troops, London: Longman, , , Longmans & Roberts, retrieved 8 September 2010.

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