ISSN: 2455-3220 International Journal for Social Studies Available at Volume 04 Issue 02 https://edupediapublications.org/journals February 2018 Innovation of Fascinated Garments from Kerala Traditional Fabrics D. Anita Rachel¹, Satheesh.Y² 1Assistant Professor, Department of Apparel Manufacturing and Merchandising, Nift – Tea College Of Knitwear Fashion and Research Scholar Department of Rural Industries and Management , Gandhigram Rural Institute-Deemed University, Gandhigram- Dindigul, Tamil Nadu, India (1526P0045), 2B.Sc(AMM)Nift – Tea College Of Knitwear Fashion, Tirupur, Tamil Nadu, India Abstract traditional occasion in Kerala is complete This Project is to innovative of without people wearing traditional Kasavu Fascinated garments from Kerala costume into Garments traditional saree in to the fancy garment. Keywords: Woven fabrics, Solitary Woven fabrics are made by using eight set garments, Warp yarns, Weft yarns, Kasavu of weave structure with the change of Saree into Fascinated Garments settings in weaving machine more sets of yarn interlaced at right angles to each 1 Introduction other. Much variety is produced by A very large number of looms are located in weaving. Woven fabrics are generally more rural areas. The rhythm of handloom can be durable. A textile is a cloth which is either heard in almost every village in Kerala. woven by hand or machine. “Textile” has traditionally meant “a woven fabric’’. The 1.1Weaving: term textile comes from the latin word Weaving process is a method of fabric “texere”, means to weave, a textile is production in which two distinct sets of anything that is made up of fibers, yarn, or yarns or threads are interlaced at right fabrics. Most textiles are produced by angles to form a fabric or cloth. twisting fibers into yarns and then knitting 1.2 Importance of handloom in Kerala or weaving the yarns into a fabric. Kerala Kerala, the greenish land lies between the Kasavu Saree – a glorious tradition; hand- western ghat and Arabian sea, about 15000 woven cream colored saree with gold square miles with varying scenic beauty. border. From the land of ‘God’s own Kerala is known as the epitome of India. country’, Kasavu emerges as one of the Historically Kerala has long been a land of finest traditional sarees which define the racial admixture and co-existence. The mile essence of beauty of every woman in stone in Kerala's history is that by first Kerala. Kerala’s handloom products have Christian church, first Muslim masque and caught the imagination of the world. first synagogue were established in Kerala. Kasavu sari is considered to be the most A number of historically important Hindu auspicious attire for women in Kerala. temples can be seen in Kerala. Tolerance Kerala women are known to be traditional and cosmopolitan outlook are the and simple, yet are modern and gorgeous. characteristics of a "Keralite". This may be Kerala Kasavu Sarees bear a stamp of the attributed to the religious and trade contact unique culture and tradition and are which existed for centuries with outside distinct from other Indian sarees. No India. Handcrafted handloom weaving, Available online: http://edupediapublications.org/journals/index.php/IJSS/ P a g e | 68 ISSN: 2455-3220 International Journal for Social Studies Available at Volume 04 Issue 02 https://edupediapublications.org/journals February 2018 Ivory works, weaving of coir are well is also an important handloom centre in known heritage of kerala. Kerala handloom Kerala. Here they have been producing the industry carries a vital role in states double dhoti and 'Mundu' and 'Neriyathu'. economy as well as in the field of The distinction of these fabrics is in its employment. There are men and women structure in the plain structure, they have weavers for whom weaving is a way of life. producing a special effect in weft direction. In early days majority of handloom weavers 2.1KERALA HANDLOOM FABRICS followed the hereditary line. The main Kerala follows its own tradition of textiles communities engaged in weaving are saliyas and hence it is referred to as 'God's own and devang as Earlier they were producing country'. The culture and traditions of cloth for their own consumption and for the Kerala are exhibited in the Sarees of this need of their village. state which cannot be witnessed anywhere 1.2 Objectives else in the country. The ladies wearing Kerala Sarees have a feel of elegance from To produced different types weave within because of their unique off white and different colors in single fabric color along with golden border and the To make Solitary Garment natural texture. It won’t be exaggerating to say that almost every Malayali lady consists To make Ladies Gorgeous long of at least one sari manufactured in Kerala. length Maxi dress. As per the tradition of Kerala, women here are found to be wearing a dress known as 2 Review of Literature 'settu mundu', which is also referred to as 'mundum neriyathum' having natural color Cloth is usually woven on a loom, a device of body and different beautiful shades of that holds the warp threads in place while border. After wearing this two piece cloth, filling threads are woven through them. A one gets a get up of a saree. The significant fabric band which meets this definition of part about the Kerala saree is that they are cloth (warp threads with a weft thread woven by hands and cotton used is 100% winding between) can also be made using unbleached. other methods, including tablet weaving, back-strap, or other techniques without The traditional pallus of the sarees add looms. The way the warp and filling threads grace to them and usually the saree of interlace with each other is called the Kerala consists of 1-7 inch pallu whereas weave. The majority of woven products are the rest of the body is found plain. There are created with one of three basic beautifully decorated designs of prints such weaves: plain weave, satin weave, or twill. as flowers and peacocks found on the one Woven cloth can be plain (in one color or a meter pallu and can be availed in stripes, simple pattern), or can be woven in checks along with a number of designs decorative or artistic designs. found in cotton or mixed with silk. The 'Kasavu Sarees' which are being 2.2 History of Kasavu Saree produced here is mostly with halffine Set Sari resembles the set Mundu very jeri.The middle class people would like to closely. The Set mundu is the traditional purchase this sarees because of its clothing of Kerala that originated from the cheapness. The price of a saree can be Sattika variety found in the Jainism and reduced from Rs.5000 to 1000 by using half Buddhism. Till date, the set Mundu is fine jeri instead of pure jeri. observed as traditional form of clothing in Chendamangalam, in the Ernakulam district Kerala. Textiles in Kerala have been present Available online: http://edupediapublications.org/journals/index.php/IJSS/ P a g e | 69 ISSN: 2455-3220 International Journal for Social Studies Available at Volume 04 Issue 02 https://edupediapublications.org/journals February 2018 since the British era. A very predominant 3.1Process Flow Chart textile that is famous across the globe is the Raw Yarn Curing - Washing Warp - Weft Calico textile known for the beautiful cotton Preparation Sizing Drawing through healds and other fabrics it materializes. It has been - reed Weaving Quality - Checking Finished running in the city of Calicut Kerala since Product – Maxi Ladies Garment the 11th century. The mundum-neryathum is the extant form 3.2 Quality of Fabric of the ancient saree referred to as "Sattika" Quality is very important for all types of in Buddhist and Jain literature.[3] The fabric and textiles. There are some mundu is the surviving form of lower important topics given blow about quality of garment of the ancient clothing referred to fabric. as antariya worn in a special way (lower 3.2.1 Quality Parameters of Woven, garment).[4] The neriyath is the modern Knitted and Non-woven Fabrics adaptation of a thin scarf worn from the Generally to test the quality parameters of right shoulder to the left shoulder referred woven, knitted and non-woven fabric, the to in ancient Buddhist-Jain texts as the fabric must be conditioning at 24 hours in uttariya.[4][5] It is one of the remains of the the standard testing atmosphere. It is very pre-Hindu Buddhist-Jain culture that once important for all types of fabric. flourished in Kerala and other parts of 3.2.2 Quality Parameters of Woven South India. The narrow borders along the Fabrics mundum neriyathum drape are probably an there are some quality parameters of woven adaptation of the Graeco-Roman costume fabric are as follows; called "palmyrene". In the palmyrene 3.2.3 Dimensional characteristics costume, the piece of cloth known as Ladies Saree: "palla" was a long piece of unstitched cloth Feet – 6 with a coloured border and was worn over a long garment, pinned at the left shoulder.[4] Thickness – 1.3mm The tradition of coloured borders along the present day mundum neryathum or pallu Weight of fabric: might have been influenced by the Graeco- GSM of - 100 GSM Roman "Palla" or Palmyrene. The Malabar coast had flourishing overseas trade with Weft count: 2/120’s the Mediterranean world since antiquity. 4 Results and Discussion However, the pallu in its modern form was 4.1 Introduction not in common use until very recently. In fact, as late as the 1970s, some populations Garments inspection and testing are in Kerala still did not use the pallu as the upper garment.