©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 406

Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS Kerry Christiani A big thank you to Monika Christiani for her Many thanks to the travellers who used company on the trails in and . the last edition and wrote to us with help- A heartfelt dankeschön, too, goes to Salzburg ful hints, useful advice and interesting tour guide Christiana Schneeweis and the anecdotes: après-ski instructors in St Anton including Bill Evans, Ciska Tillema, George MacDonald, Maggie Ritson and Shane Pearce for their Katrin Flatscher, Laurent Candelon, Markus invaluable local knowledge. Thanks to all Deutsch, Martin Hellwagner, Natalie Walker, the tourism professionals who made the Nikki Buran, Sain Alizada, Sebastian Cosgrove, road to research smooth, especially Sabine Sheri Hendsbee, Torben Retboll, Wilfried Nutz. Günterseder (Upper Tourism), Birgit Weszelka (Salzburg Information) and Colette Spiss-Verra (Innsbruck Tourism). Last but AUTHOR THANKS not least, thanks to Dora Whitaker, coauthors Anthony and Marc and the entire Lonely Planet Anthony Haywood production team. Many thanks to the many Viennese who helped with expert knowledge and advice for that Marc Di Duca chapter – including staff at the Vienna Tourist Many thanks go to staff at tourist offices Board, Ishimitsu Takako for her interview, Reini across and for their Weissensteiner for offering tips in Vienna and invaluable assistance throughout, especially the Gesäuse, Andreas Hollinger in the Gesäuse, those in Krems, Melk and Eisenstadt, and to and to those who provided information at the the Austrian National Tourist Office in London. various stops along the way. Many thanks to Huge thanks to my parents-in-law in Kyiv for coauthors Kerry Christiani and Marc Di Duca looking after the boys while I was on the road for their great work on the book, commission- and to my wife, Tanya, for the patience she ing editor Dora Whitaker, Annelies Mertens and shows during all the days we spend apart. the rest of the LP team. BEHIND THE SCENES 407

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Naomi Anita Banh, Ryan India, India, Indra Alison Kilfoyle, Virginia Korina Miller, Lyall, DiannePaton, Trent Moreno, John Taufa, Schallmeiner, Juan Winata Assisting Cartographers Jennifer Johnston, Kelly, Eve Gabriel Lindquist, James Leversha Cover Research Parker Language Content Branislava Vladisavljevic Thanks to SamanthaEvans, Forge, LarissaMark Frost, Grif fiths, Genesys India, Jouve

Annelies Carolyn Carolyn Mazzy Karyn Vienna U- & S-Bahn map © 2013 Wiener Wiener © 2013 map & S-Bahn U- Vienna Linien Schönbühel, Schloss photograph: Cover Giovanni Austria, Lower Valley, The Danube Simeone/4Corners Senior Editors Noble, Catherine Naghten Assisting Editors Bain, CharlotteSusan Orr, Paterson Commissioning Editor Dora Whitaker Coordinating Editors Monique Penny Cordner, Perrin Senior Cartographer Corey Hutchison Book Designer Prinsep Managing Editors Mertens, Angela Tinson, Sasha Baskett -

latter guidebook Austria Honan. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet’s London office, and produced by the following: with Caroline Sieg. The 4th edition was written by Neal Bedford and Gemma ThePitcher. first three edi tions were written by Mark Christiani and Marc Di Duca. Anthony and Kerry also worked on the 5th and 6th editions and on the This 7th edition of Lonely Planet’s was researched and written by Anthony Haywood, Kerry THIS BOOK Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, MC, Peel from adapted data map Climate ‘Updated (2007) TA McMahon & BL Finlayson Climate the Köppen-Geiger of Map World System and Earth Hydrology Classification’, 1633¬44. 11, Sciences, ACKNOWLEDGMENTS ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 408

Index

1848 revolution 352-3 baroque 362-4 Bruck an der Mur 190 Kuenringerburg 121 contemporary 367 budget 21, 47 Residenz 223 highlights 367 Bundesgestüt Piber 184 Schloss Belvedere 78 A neoclassicism 364-5 Burg Forchtenstein 144 Schloss Bruck 278-9 abbeys, see also churches & cathedrals revivalism 364-5 Burg Hochosterwitz 274 Schloss Eggenberg 176-7 Augustiner Secession 72-3, 365-7 Burg Landskron 271 Schloss Esterházy 141-2 Chorherrenstift 162 area codes 389 Burgenland 52, 140-50 Schloss Mirabell 225, Benedictine Abbey Arlberg Region 319-24 climate 113 2, 18 (Admont) 16, 193, 16 art galleries, see museums food 49 Schloss Grafenegg 120-1 Stift Göttweig 120 & galleries highlights 114 Schloss Schallaburg 125 Stift Melk 14, 125, 14 arts 367-73, see also history 140-1 Schloss Schönbrunn 8, Stift Millstatt 277 classical music, opera transport 140, 145 82-3, 83, 9 Stift Nonnberg 225, 12 Artstetten 124 wine 141 Schloss Schönbühel 123 accommodation 382-5, see ATMs 388 Bürglstein 212 Seeschloss Ort 208 also individual locations Attersee 210-11 bus travel cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals Achensee 306 Au 332 to/from Austria 393 caves activities 24, 25, 31-45, within Austria 396 see also cycling, hiking, Blaue Grotte 216 bushwalking, see hiking mountain biking, skiing B Dachstein caves 204-5 Bad Aussee 206-7 business hours 384, 388 & snowboarding, swim- Eisriesenwelt 15, 243, 15 ming, water sports, Bad Deutsch-Altenburg 132-3 Schlossberg Cave individual locations Bad Gastein 256-60, 257 Railway 181 canyoning 45 C 165-6 cable cars cell phones 20, 389 paragliding 45 Bad Hofgastein 260 Bregenz 325 cheese 128, 303, 331-2 rock climbing 44 Bad Ischl 200-2 Dachstein caves 204-5 children, travel with 385 snowshoeing 37 Bad Leonfelden 167 Ehrwald 316 Graz 181 tobogganing 242, 281, Bad Tatzmannsdorf 149 Salzburg 233 318, 321 Höllental 140 Baden bei Wien 134 Vienna 79 Adlwang 167 Innsbruck 291 Bärnbach 185 Kufstein 310 chocolate 336-7 Admont 16, 193-4, 16 beer 47, 101, 168 Christmas markets 27, 108 air travel 392-3, 395 Mayrhofen 303 festivals 46, 302 churches & cathedrals Alberfeldkogel 210 car travel 393, 396-7, see Benedictine Abbey also driving tours Basilika (Mariazell) 188 Albertina 69 (Admont) 16, 16 54, 261-83, Benedictine Abbey Alps, the 376-80 Bernstein 149 262, 269 (Admont) 16, 193, 16 animals 377 Bezau 332 accommodation 261 Bergkirche 142 après-ski 318, 320, 323 bicycle travel, see cycling climate 261 Cathedral Pummerin 64 architects Bludenz 336-7 food 49, 261 Domkirche St Adolf Loos 366 boat travel highlights 262 Nikolaus 334 Baukünstler 330 to/from Austria 394 travel to/within 263 Hofkirche 287-8 Fischer von Erlach, within Austria 396 castles & palaces Kaisergruft 64 Johann Bernhard 362-3 Böckstein 260 Burg Forchtenstein 144 Karlskirche 81 Otto Wagner 364 Bodensee 327, 328 Burg Hochosterwitz 274 Mariendom 154 architecture 362-7 Böhmerwald 167 Burg Landskron 271 Parish Church art nouveau 365-7 books 342 Festung Hohensalzburg (Mondsee) 214-15 Braunau am Inn 170 10, 219, 10 Ruprechtskirche 70 Bregenz 325-30, 326 Hofburg 8, 65-6, 357 Stephansdom 60-1 Map Pages 000 Bregenzerwald 331-3 Kaiserappartements 66 Stift Melk 14, 125, 14 Photo Pages 000 Bruck 247 Kaiservilla 200 Wallfahrtskirche 211-12 409 classical music 104, 371-2 wine 48, 185-6 flora 378 H Bregenzer Festspiele 329 driving 393, 396-7 food 24, 46-51, 386, Habsburg dynasty 346-50 see also individual Brucknerfest 156 driving tours Hofburg 8, 65-6, 357 locations Salzburg 227 Bregenzerwald Kaisergruft 64-5 cheese 128, 303, 331-2 Salzburg Festival 15, 230 Käsestrasse 332 Hadersdorf 128 chocolate 336-7 Styriarte 178 Danube Valley, the 122-3 Hainburg 132

cooking classes 50 INDEX climate 20, 385, see also Grossglockner Road Hall in Tirol 297-8 individual regions 8, 247 festivals & events 46 Hallein 241-3 coffee 13, 374-5, 13 Styrian Wine Roads 186 local specialities 48-50 Hallstatt 202-4, 2, 16 The Sound of Music 224 markets 19, 94, 97, credit cards 388  C-H Hallstätter See 202-6 culture 342-3 161 180, 19 Haydn, Joseph 371-2 currency 20 Drosendorf 127 Naschmarkt 19, 97, 19 health 386-7 customs regulations 386 Dürnstein 121-2 Franz Josef I 200, 353 Heiligenblut 248-9 cycling 25, 40-3, 395-6, see Kaiserappartements 66 Heiligenkreuz 134 also mountain biking Frauenkirchen 148 E Hellbrunn 240-1 Bad Aussee 206 Freistadt 168-9 Ebensee 210 Bodensee 328 fresco painting 368-9 Hermagor 272 economy 343 Burgenland 145 Freud, Sigmund 354, 358 Herzogenburg 131 Egg 332 Danube Valley, the 122-3 Sigmund Freud Heurigen (wine taverns) Egger-Lienz, Albin 282 18, 18 hire 395-6 Museum 82 Ehrenhausen 187 Mörbisch am See 146 Kamptal 137 Friesach 272-3 Ehrwald 316 Rust 145-6 Krimml 255 Fucking 169 Eichberg-Trautenburg 185 Spitz 122 Lienz 280-1 Eisenerz 191-2 Styrian Wine Roads 185-6 Murau 197 Eisenstadt 141-3, 142 G Vienna 98-104 Podersdorf am See 147 Gaisberg 242 Eisriesenwelt 15, 243, 15 hiking 13, 36-40 Salzburg 226 galleries, see museums & electricity 386 Baumkronenweg 170 Schwarzensee 214 galleries emergencies 21 Dachstein caves 204 Semmering 139 Galtür 318 entertainment, see Dachstein mountains 205 Strobl 212 individual locations gardens, see parks & gardens Dreiländereck 271-2 Styrian Wine Roads 185 environmental issues Filzmoos 244 Zillertal, the 304 379-80 Gasteiner Wasserfall 256 Gesäuse 193 etiquette 23, 51 gay travellers 386 Vienna 99 Hohe Tauern National Europapark 265, 267, 266 D Park 248 events, see festivals & Geinberg 171 Dachstein caves 204-5 hut-to-hut hiking 40 events Gerersdorf 150 Dachstein mountains 205 exchange rates 21 Gerlos Alpine Road 302 Innsbruck 291, 292 Danube Valley, the 25, Ginzling 305-6 Johnsbach 194 116-27 Gmünd 275 Murau 197 dangers, see safety F Gmunden 208-9, 209 Peilstein 134 Deutschlandsberg 186-7 Faaker See 271 Gosau 206 Pinzgauer Spaziergang disabilities, travellers Feldkirch 333-6, 334 Gosausee 206 13, 253 with 390 ferris wheel, see Riesenrad Gran, Daniel 368 Prater 85 discount cards 386 festivals & events 26-7 Graz 17, 174-84, 17 Radsattel Circuit, Eisenstadt 143 beer 46, 302 Bierlehöhe 338 accommodation 178 Gastein Card 258 Bregenzer Festspiele 329 Raxalpe 140 children 181 Innsbruck 293 Halleiner Festwochen 242 Rosengartenschlucht drinking 181-2 Kitzbühel 310 Milka Chocolate Circuit 316 entertainment 182-3 Lienz 278 Festival 337 Schladming 195 festivals & events 178 MuseumsQuartier 67 Poolbar Festival 335 Schlossbergweg 121 food 180-1 Neusiedler See 143 Salzburg Festival 15, Schneeberg 140 shopping 183 Ötztal, the 314 230, 15 Semmering 139 sights 174-8 Salzburg 225 Schubertiade 331 Weissensee 280 travel to/from 183 Schladming 195 Snowbombing 305 Wienerwald 85 travel within 184 Vienna 60 Spectaculum 273 Zell am See 249 Donauinselfest 26 Festung Hohensalzburg 10, Grossglockner Road 8, 246-8, 8 Zillertal, the 299-300 Dornbirn 330-1 219, 10 Grossklein 187 Hildebrandt, Johann Lukas Dreiländereck 271-2 Feuerkogel 210 von 363 Grünburg 161 drinks 24, 46-51, see also films 342, 359 Hirschbach 167 Gumpoldskirchen 133 beer Filzmoos 244-5 history 344-61 Gurk 273 coffee 13, 374-5, 13 Fischer von Erlach, Johann 1848 revolution 352-3 schnapps 317 Bernhard 362-3 Güssing 149-150 410 history continued itineraries 28-30, 28, Neusiedler See 144 Naschmarkt 19, 97, 19 Austro-Hungarian 29, 30 Ossiacher See 271 Mauterndorf 246 Empire 353 Vienna 61 Stimmersee 311 Mauthausen 163 Babenberg dynasty 346 Salzburg 219 Traunsee 208-10 Mayerling 135 Carolingian Empire 345-6 Wolfgangsee 211-14 Mayrhofen 303-5 Franz Josef I 353 Wörthersee 268 J Melk 124-6 INDEX INDEX Habsburg dynasty Zell am See 249-55, 250 Mellau 332 346-50 Jewish history 355-9 316-17 Millstatt 277-8 Hitler, Adolf 88, 170, Jüdisches Museum 69 Langegg 186 Millstätter See 277-8 357-9, 369, 370 Museum Judenplatz 69 H-M language 401-5 mobile phones 20, 389  Holy Roman Empire 347 Johnsbach 194 Lech 339 Mödling 133 Jewish history 355-9 legal matters 387-8 Molln 161 Maria Theresia 350-1 K Leoben 190-1 Ötzi 345 Mondsee 214-15 Kaiserappartements 66 lesbian travellers 386 post-WWII 360 money 20, 21, 388, see Kaisergebirge 310-11 Vienna 99 also discount cards Romans 345 Kaisergruft 64-5 Leutschach 185 Montafon 337-9 Waldheim, Kurt 360 Kalkalpen National Park Liechtensteinklamm 243 Mörbisch am See 146 Hitler, Adolf 88, 170, 357-9, 378-9 Lienz 278-83, 279 Mostviertel 131 369, 370 Kamptal, the 128 accommodation 281-2 motorcycle travel 396-8 Hofburg 8, 65-6, 357 Karlskirche 81 activities 280-1 mountain biking 25, see Hofkirche 287-8 Kefermarkt 169 discount cards 278 also cycling Hohe Tauern National Park Kitzbühel 306-10, 307 246-60, 378-9, drinking 282-3 Hermagor 273 247 Kitzsteinhorn Glacier 254 Hohenems 330 food 282-3 Innsbruck 291 Klagenfurt 263-8, 264 holidays 388-9 sights 278-9 318 accommodation 265-6 Höllental 140 travel to/within 283 Kitzbühel 307-8 activities 263-5 horses, Lipizzaner 66-7 Linz 153-62, 154 Salzburg 242 drinking 266-7 Hüttenberg 274 accommodation 156 Schladming 195 festivals & events 265 drinking 159 Weissensee 280 food 266-7 entertainment 159 Wienerwald 133-4 sights 263-5 I festivals & events 156 Mozart, Wolfgang Amadeus ice man, see Ötzi travel to/from 267 food 157 18, 372-3 Illmitz 148-9 travel within 267-8 history 153 Mozarthaus (St Gilgen) 213 immigration 392 Klimt, Gustav 354, 365-6, shopping 160 Mozarthaus Vienna 64 Imst 315-16 369, 371 sights 153 Mozarts Geburtshaus 224 Innsbruck 18, 286-97, , Klostermarienberg 149 287 tours 156 Mozartwoche 227 288, 19 Kokoschka, Oskar 369-71 travel to/from 160 Mozart-Wohnhaus 224 accommodation 292-3 Krems an der Donau 116-20, travel within 160-2 Salzburg 18 activities 291 118, 11 Lipizzaner horses 66-7 walking tour 229 discount cards 293 Kremsmünster 166 literature, see books Mühldorf 124 drinking 295-6 Krimml 255-6 Lochau 327 Mühlviertel, the 168-9 entertainment 296 Krimmler Wasserfälle 17, Lockenhaus 149 MUMOK 72 festivals & events 292 255, 17 lookouts 24-5, see also Murau 196-7 food 293-5 Kufstein 310-11 cable cars museums & galleries 24 history 286 Kunsthaus Graz 175 5Fingers viewing Albertina 69 shopping 296 Kunsthistorisches Museum 70, 71 platform 205 Ars Electronica Center sights 287-291 KZ Mauthausen 163 Loos, Adolf, 366 153 tours 292 Lower Austria 52, 113-40 Eboard Museum 263 travel to/within 297 114-15 Goldenes Dachl & Inntal, the 317-18 L climate 113 Museum 289 lakes 16 Innviertel, the 169-71 food 49 Haus der Musik 65 Achensee 306 insurance 387 highlights 114 Heeresgeschichtliches car 397 Attersee 210-11 Museum 80 Bodensee 327, 328 health 387 Hofburg 8, 65-6, 357 internet access 387 Erlaufsee 188 M March-Donauland 131-3 Jüdisches Museum 69 internet resources 21 Faaker See 271 Maria Saal 274-5 Kaiserappartements 66 Ischgl 318-19 Gosausee 206 Maria Taferl 124 Kaiserliche Hallstätter See 202-6 Schatzkammer 67 Maria Theresia 350-1 Hechtsee 311 Mariazell 188-9, K-Hof 208 Map Pages 000 Millstätter See 277-8 189 markets 94, 180 Kunsthalle 116 Photo Pages 000 Mondsee 214-15 Christmas 27, 108 Kunsthaus Graz 175 411 Kunsthistorisches Naturpark Dobratsch 272 R Schiele, Egon 369-70 Museum 70, 71 Neusiedl am See 147 Radstadt 245-6 Schladming 195-6 Landesmuseum Neusiedler See 144-9 Rathaus, Vienna 73-4 Schloss Belvedere 78 Rudolfinum 263 Raxalpe 140 Schloss Grafenegg 120-1 Lentos 153 religion 343 Schloss Mirabell 225, 2, 18 Leopold Museum 72 O reserves, see national Schloss Schallaburg 125 Linz-Genesis 159 Obertraun 204-6 parks & reserves Schloss Schönbrunn 8, INDEX Mozarthaus Vienna 64 Oberzeiring 194 Residenz 223 82-3, 82, 9 MUMOK 72 opening hours 384, 388 Residenzplatz 224 Schloss Schönbühel 123 Museum der opera 371-2 Riegersburg 187-8 Schlossberg 175  M-S Moderne 223 Bregenzer Festspiele 329 Riesenrad 25, 85, Schneeberg 140 Museum für Angewandte Musikfilm Festival 87 25 Ringstrasse 70-5 Schönberg, Arnold 358, 372 Kunst 75 Opernball 86 Rottmayr, Johann Michael Schörfling 211 Museum für Völkerkunde Staatsoper 104 368-9 Schubert, Franz 331, 372 67-9 Vienna 104-6 Rosengartenschlucht 316 Schwarzenbach 212 Museum Judenplatz 69 Ossiacher See 271 Museum Kitzbühel 306 Rust 144-6 Schwarzenberg 332 Ötzi 345 MuseumsQuartier 14, Schwarzensee 214 Ötztal, the 313-15 67, 14 Schwaz 298-9 S Naturhistorisches Seckau 194 safety Museum 70-2, 348 Seefeld 312-13 P car 393 Neue Burg Museums 67 palaces, see castles & Seewinkel 148-9 hiking 37-8 Neue Galerie Graz 174 palaces Semmering 139 skiing 33 Oberes Belvedere 78 Parish Church (Mondsee) Semmeringbahn 17, 139, 17 214-15 Salieri, Antonio 372 Salzburg Museum senior travellers 386 219-22 parks & gardens Salzburg 12, 15, 18, 54, 218-40, 220-1, 12, shopping, see markets, Schloss Eggenberg 176 Alpine Flower Garden 306 individual locations 15, 18 Secession 72-3 alpine garden 161 (Dreiländereck) 271-2 accommodation 227-32 Sigmund Freud skiing & snowboarding activities 226 Museum 82 Belvedere Gardens 79 10, 31-6, 10, see also Tiroler Landesmuseum Mirabellgarten 225 children 233 après-ski Ferdinandeum 290 Prater 75 climate 216 Alps, the 380 Universalmuseum Schloss Eggenberg discount cards 225 Arlberg 339 Joanneum 179 Parkland 178 drinking 235-6 Bad Gastein 256-8 Volkskunst Museum 288 Schloss Schönbrunn entertainment 236-8 cross-country 312 MuseumsQuartier 14, 67, 14 Gardens 83-4 food 49, 232-5 Dachstein mountains 205 music 371-3, see also Parlament 73, 353 highlights 217 Filzmoos 244 classical music, opera passports 392 history 218 Gerlitzen 271 Paznauntal, the 318-19 shopping 238-9 glacier 244, 312, 314 Perchtoldsdorf 133 N sights 218-26 Harakiri 303 Petronell-Carnuntum 132-3 Naggl 280 tours 226-7 Heiligenblut 248 317 Napoleon 351-2 travel to/from 218, Hermagor 272 photography 377 239-40 Naschmarkt 19, 97, 19 Innsbruck 291 Pinzgauer Spaziergang 13, travel within 240 national parks & reserves Ischgl 318 253, 13 walking tour 229, Hohe Tauern National 229 Kitzbühel 34, 306-7 Park 246-60, 378-9 planning, see also Salzburg Festival 15, Kitzsteinhorn Glacier 247 individual regions 230, 15 254 Nationalpark Austria basics 20-1 Salzburg Museum 219-22 Lienz 280-1 Donau-Auen 133 Austria’s regions 52 Salzburgerland 54, 218-40 Mariazell 188 Nationalpark budgeting 20, 21 accommodation 216 Gesäuse 192-3, 378-9 Mayrhofen 303 calendar of events 26-7 climate 216 Nationalpark Ötztal, the 314 children, travel with 385 food 49, 216 Kalkalpen 166, 378-9 Semmering 139 internet resources 21 highlights 217 Nationalpark Silvretta Arena 35-45 itineraries 28-30, 28, Salzkammergut 16, 53, Thayatal 127 Silvretta-Montafon , 198-215, Neusiedler 29 30 199 35-45, 337-9 travel seasons 20 accommodation 198 See-Seewinkel Ski Amadé 34, 256-7 Podersdorf am See 147-8 climate 198 National Park 148 Ski Arlberg 34 politics 342-3 food 198 Nockberge 379 Sölden 35-45 population 343 highlights 199 Nationalbibliothek 369 320 prices 384 travel to/within 200 Nationalpark Thayatal 127 St Gilgen 213 public holidays 388-9 Schafberg mountain 211 Naturhistorisches Museum Stubai Glacier 312 70-2, 348 Purbach am See 146-7 Schärding 170-1 412 skiing & snowboarding Strobl 211-12 U W continuned Stubai Glacier 312 University Obscenity 370 Wachau, the 116, 11 Tyrol 308 Stübing 184 Unterloiben 122 Wagner, Otto 364 Zell am See 35-45, 249 53, 172-97, 173, 176 Untersberg 242 Waidhofen an der Ybbs 131 Zillertal, the 34-5, 255 accommodation 172 Upper Austria 53, 151-71, 152 Waldheim, Kurt 360 smoking 384 climate 172 accommodation 151 Waldviertel 127 INDEX INDEX snowboarding, see skiing & food 49, 172 climate 151 road trips 128 snowboarding highlights 173 food 49, 151 walking, see hiking Söll 311-12 tours 178 highlights 152 walking tours

S-Z Sopron 146 travel to/from 173 travel to/within 153 modern art, Salzburg 226 Sound of Music, The 12 travel within 174 Mozart 229, 229 Fräulein Maria’s Bicycle Styrian Wine Roads 185-6 Tours 227 V Pinzgauer Spaziergang Styriarte 27 253, 253 Parish Church vacations 388-9 (Mondsee) 214-15 Süd-Alpin 137 Velden 268 Radsattel Circuit, Bierlehöhe 338, Salzburger Marionetten­ Swarovski Kristallwelten 298 via ferrate 44 338 theater 236-7 swimming Vienna 8, 13, 14, 19, 52, Vienna’s Historic Centre Schloss Hellbrunn 240-1 Frauenkirchen 148 56-112, 58-9, 62-3, 74, 68, 68 Schloss Leopoldskron 224 Strandbad 265 76-7, 80, 9, 13, 14, 19 Zillertal Circuit 301 self-guided tour 224 Wolfgangsee 212 accommodation 56, 87-91 water sports 44-5 activities 85 Erlaufsee 188 Stift Nonnberg 225, 12 children, travel with 79 villa Trapp 231 Grundlsee 207 T climate 56 Johnsbach 194 Spanische Hofreitschule taverns, see Heurigen cycling 111 (Spanish Riding School) (wine taverns) Lienz 280-1 coffee houses 98-104 66-7 taxes 388 Millstatt 277 discount cards 60 spas 11, 11 telephone services 20, 389 Mondsee 215 drinking 98-104 Aqua Dome 314 thermal baths 84, see Podersdorf am See 147 Alpen Therme 260, 11 also spas emergency 110 St Gilgen 213 Bad Blumau 196 time 389 entertainment 104-7 Wattens 298 festivals & events 86-7 Bad Gastein 256, 259 tipping 388 weather 20, 385, see also food 48, 56, 91-8 Bad Hall 165-6 tourist information 390 individual regions gay & lesbian Bad Hofgastein 260 tours, see driving tours, websites, see internet travellers 99 Bad Ischl 200-2 walking tours, resources highlights 58 Baden bei Wien 134 individual locations Weinviertel 127 history 60 Frauenkirchen 148 train travel 393-4, Weissenkirchen 122-4 internet resources 57 Geinberg 171 398-400, 399 Weissensee 280 itineraries 61 Ötztal, the 313-15 motorail trains 398 Wels 166-8 medical services 110 Rogner-Bad Blumau 196 Semmeringbahn 17, Werfen 243-4 139, 17 shopping 107-9 Römertherme 136 western Arlberg 339-40 to/from Austria 395 sights 60-84 Spectaculum 273 Wiener Neustadt 137-8 useful terms 400 tours 85-6 Spittal an der Drau 23, 275-7 Wienerwald 133 within Austria 398-400 travel seasons 56 Spitz 124 Willendorf 123 Traunkirchen 209-10 travel to/from 110-11 St Anton am Arlberg 320-4, wine 48 Traunsee 208-10 travel within 111-12 322, 10 Styrian Wine Roads 185-6 walking tour 68, 68 St Florian 162 Traunviertel, the 163-8 wine taverns, see Heurigen Viennale 87 St Gilgen 213-14 travel to/from Austria (wine taverns) 392-4 Viennese actionism 73, winter sports 24 St Pölten 128-31, 130 370-1 travel within Austria Wolfgangsee 211-14 St Veit an der Glan 274 Villach 268-71, 394-400 270 work 391 St Wolfgang 211-13 visas 20, 390-1 road distances 396 Wörthersee 268 Staatsoper 104 visual arts 368-71 trekking, see hiking WWII 357-60 Stams 313 Troger, Paul 368 volunteering 391 Stephansdom 60-1 Tulln 126-7, 369 von Trapp, family 231, see 163 also Sound of Music, The Tyrol 54, 286-324, 12, 285 Z 54, 324-40, Stift Göttweig 120 accommodation 284 285 Zell am See 249-55, 250 accommodation 284 Stift Melk 14, 125, 14 climate 284 Zell am Ziller 300-2 climate 284 Stift Nonnberg 225, 12 food 50, 284 Zillertal, the 299-306 food 50, 284 highlights 285 cycling 304, 5 highlights 285 Map Pages 000 history 286 walking tour 301, 301 history 324 Photo Pages 000 travel to/within 286 Zürs 339 travel to/within 325 415

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Hut/Shelter Walking Tour detour Shinto Lighthouse Path/Walking Trail Sikh Lookout Taoist Mountain/Volcano Boundaries Winery/Vineyard Oasis International Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Park State/Province Other Sight Pass Disputed Picnic Area Regional/Suburb Activities, Waterfall Marine Park Courses & Tours Cliff Bodysurfing Population Wall Diving Capital (National) Canoeing/Kayaking Capital (State/Province) Hydrography Course/Tour City/Large Town River, Creek Skiing Town/Village Intermittent River Snorkelling Canal Surfing Transport Water Swimming/Pool Airport Walking Border crossing Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Bus Reef Other Activity Cable car/Funicular Cycling Areas Sleeping Ferry Airport/Runway Sleeping Metro station Camping Monorail Beach/Desert Parking Cemetery (Christian) Eating Petrol station Eating S-Bahn/S-train/Subway station Cemetery (Other) Taxi Glacier Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Cafe Tram Park/Forest Tube station Entertainment U-Bahn/Underground station Sight (Building) Entertainment Other Transport Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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