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For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS Kerry Christiani A big thank you to Monika Christiani for her Many thanks to the travellers who used company on the trails in Tyrol and Salzburg. the last edition and wrote to us with help- A heartfelt dankeschön, too, goes to Salzburg ful hints, useful advice and interesting tour guide Christiana Schneeweis and the anecdotes: après-ski instructors in St Anton including Bill Evans, Ciska Tillema, George MacDonald, Maggie Ritson and Shane Pearce for their Katrin Flatscher, Laurent Candelon, Markus invaluable local knowledge. Thanks to all Deutsch, Martin Hellwagner, Natalie Walker, the tourism professionals who made the Nikki Buran, Sain Alizada, Sebastian Cosgrove, road to research smooth, especially Sabine Sheri Hendsbee, Torben Retboll, Wilfried Nutz. Günterseder (Upper Austria Tourism), Birgit Weszelka (Salzburg Information) and Colette Spiss-Verra (Innsbruck Tourism). Last but AUTHOR THANKS not least, thanks to Dora Whitaker, coauthors Anthony and Marc and the entire Lonely Planet Anthony Haywood production team. Many thanks to the many Viennese who helped with expert knowledge and advice for that Marc Di Duca chapter – including staff at the Vienna Tourist Many thanks go to staff at tourist offices Board, Ishimitsu Takako for her interview, Reini across Lower Austria and Burgenland for their Weissensteiner for offering tips in Vienna and invaluable assistance throughout, especially the Gesäuse, Andreas Hollinger in the Gesäuse, those in Krems, Melk and Eisenstadt, and to and to those who provided information at the the Austrian National Tourist Office in London. various stops along the way. Many thanks to Huge thanks to my parents-in-law in Kyiv for coauthors Kerry Christiani and Marc Di Duca looking after the boys while I was on the road for their great work on the book, commission- and to my wife, Tanya, for the patience she ing editor Dora Whitaker, Annelies Mertens and shows during all the days we spend apart. the rest of the LP team. 407 Vienna U- & S-Bahn map © 2013 Wiener ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Linien Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated Cover photograph: Schloss Schönbühel, World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate The Danube Valley, Lower Austria, Giovanni Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Simeone/4Corners Sciences, 11, 1633¬44. BEHIND THE SCENES Commissioning Editor Assisting Cartographers THIS BOOK Dora Whitaker Jennifer Johnston, Eve Kelly, This 7th edition of Lonely Coordinating Editors Gabriel Lindquist, James Planet’s Austria guidebook Penny Cordner, Monique Leversha was researched and written Perrin Cover Research Naomi by Anthony Haywood, Kerry Senior Cartographer Parker Christiani and Marc Di Duca. Corey Hutchison Language Content Anthony and Kerry also Branislava Vladisavljevic worked on the 5th and 6th Book Designer Mazzy editions and on the latter Prinsep Thanks to Anita Banh, Ryan with Caroline Sieg. The Managing Editors Annelies Evans, Samantha Forge, 4th edition was written by Mertens, Angela Tinson, Larissa Frost, Mark Grif- Neal Bedford and Gemma Sasha Baskett fiths, Genesys India, Jouve Pitcher. The first three edi- Senior Editors Karyn India, Indra Kilfoyle, Alison tions were written by Mark Noble, Catherine Naghten Lyall, Korina Miller, Virginia Moreno, Trent Paton, Dianne Honan. This guidebook was Carolyn Assisting Editors Schallmeiner, John Taufa, commissioned in Lonely Bain, Charlotte Orr, Susan Juan Winata Planet’s London office, and Paterson produced by the following: ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 408 Index 1848 revolution 352-3 baroque 362-4 Bruck an der Mur 190 Kuenringerburg 121 contemporary 367 budget 21, 47 Residenz 223 highlights 367 Bundesgestüt Piber 184 Schloss Belvedere 78 A neoclassicism 364-5 Burg Forchtenstein 144 Schloss Bruck 278-9 abbeys, see also churches & cathedrals revivalism 364-5 Burg Hochosterwitz 274 Schloss Eggenberg 176-7 Augustiner Secession 72-3, 365-7 Burg Landskron 271 Schloss Esterházy 141-2 Chorherrenstift 162 area codes 389 Burgenland 52, 140-50 Schloss Mirabell 225, Benedictine Abbey Arlberg Region 319-24 climate 113 2, 18 (Admont) 16, 193, 16 art galleries, see museums food 49 Schloss Grafenegg 120-1 Stift Göttweig 120 & galleries highlights 114 Schloss Schallaburg 125 Stift Melk 14, 125, 14 arts 367-73, see also history 140-1 Schloss Schönbrunn 8, Stift Millstatt 277 classical music, opera transport 140, 145 82-3, 83, 9 Stift Nonnberg 225, 12 Artstetten 124 wine 141 Schloss Schönbühel 123 accommodation 382-5, see ATMs 388 Bürglstein 212 Seeschloss Ort 208 also individual locations Attersee 210-11 bus travel cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals Achensee 306 Au 332 to/from Austria 393 caves activities 24, 25, 31-45, within Austria 396 see also cycling, hiking, Blaue Grotte 216 bushwalking, see hiking mountain biking, skiing B Dachstein caves 204-5 Bad Aussee 206-7 business hours 384, 388 & snowboarding, swim- Eisriesenwelt 15, 243, 15 ming, water sports, Bad Deutsch-Altenburg 132-3 Schlossberg Cave individual locations Bad Gastein 256-60, 257 Railway 181 canyoning 45 C Bad Hall 165-6 cable cars cell phones 20, 389 paragliding 45 Bad Hofgastein 260 Bregenz 325 cheese 128, 303, 331-2 rock climbing 44 Bad Ischl 200-2 Dachstein caves 204-5 children, travel with 385 snowshoeing 37 Bad Leonfelden 167 Ehrwald 316 Graz 181 tobogganing 242, 281, Bad Tatzmannsdorf 149 Salzburg 233 318, 321 Höllental 140 Baden bei Wien 134 Vienna 79 Adlwang 167 Innsbruck 291 Bärnbach 185 Kufstein 310 chocolate 336-7 Admont 16, 193-4, 16 beer 47, 101, 168 Christmas markets 27, 108 air travel 392-3, 395 Mayrhofen 303 festivals 46, 302 churches & cathedrals Alberfeldkogel 210 car travel 393, 396-7, see Benedictine Abbey also driving tours Basilika (Mariazell) 188 Albertina 69 (Admont) 16, 16 Carinthia 54, 261-83, Benedictine Abbey Alps, the 376-80 Bernstein 149 262, 269 (Admont) 16, 193, 16 animals 377 Bezau 332 accommodation 261 Bergkirche 142 après-ski 318, 320, 323 bicycle travel, see cycling climate 261 Cathedral Pummerin 64 architects Bludenz 336-7 food 49, 261 Domkirche St Adolf Loos 366 boat travel highlights 262 Nikolaus 334 Baukünstler 330 to/from Austria 394 travel to/within 263 Hofkirche 287-8 Fischer von Erlach, within Austria 396 castles & palaces Kaisergruft 64 Johann Bernhard 362-3 Böckstein 260 Burg Forchtenstein 144 Karlskirche 81 Otto Wagner 364 Bodensee 327, 328 Burg Hochosterwitz 274 Mariendom 154 architecture 362-7 Böhmerwald 167 Burg Landskron 271 Parish Church art nouveau 365-7 books 342 Festung Hohensalzburg (Mondsee) 214-15 Braunau am Inn 170 10, 219, 10 Ruprechtskirche 70 Bregenz 325-30, 326 Hofburg 8, 65-6, 357 Stephansdom 60-1 Map Pages 000 Bregenzerwald 331-3 Kaiserappartements 66 Stift Melk 14, 125, 14 Photo Pages 000 Bruck 247 Kaiservilla 200 Wallfahrtskirche 211-12 409 classical music 104, 371-2 wine 48, 185-6 flora 378 H Bregenzer Festspiele 329 driving 393, 396-7 food 24, 46-51, 386, Habsburg dynasty 346-50 see also individual Brucknerfest 156 driving tours Hofburg 8, 65-6, 357 locations Salzburg 227 Bregenzerwald Kaisergruft 64-5 cheese 128, 303, 331-2 Salzburg Festival 15, 230 Käsestrasse 332 Hadersdorf 128 chocolate 336-7 Styriarte 178 Danube Valley, the 122-3 Hainburg 132 cooking classes 50 INDEX climate 20, 385, see also Grossglockner Road Hall in Tirol 297-8 individual regions 8, 247 festivals & events 46 Hallein 241-3 coffee 13, 374-5, 13 Styrian Wine Roads 186 local specialities 48-50 Hallstatt 202-4, 2, 16 The Sound of Music 224 markets 19, 94, 97, credit cards 388 C-H Hallstätter See 202-6 culture 342-3 Upper Austria 161 180, 19 Haydn, Joseph 371-2 currency 20 Drosendorf 127 Naschmarkt 19, 97, 19 health 386-7 customs regulations 386 Dürnstein 121-2 Franz Josef I 200, 353 Heiligenblut 248-9 cycling 25, 40-3, 395-6, see Kaiserappartements 66 Heiligenkreuz 134 also mountain biking Frauenkirchen 148 E Hellbrunn 240-1 Bad Aussee 206 Freistadt 168-9 Ebensee 210 Bodensee 328 fresco painting 368-9 Hermagor 272 economy 343 Burgenland 145 Freud, Sigmund 354, 358 Herzogenburg 131 Egg 332 Danube Valley, the 122-3 Sigmund Freud Heurigen (wine taverns) Egger-Lienz, Albin 282 18, 18 hire 395-6 Museum 82 Ehrenhausen 187 Mörbisch am See 146 Kamptal 137 Friesach 272-3 Ehrwald 316 Rust 145-6 Krimml 255 Fucking 169 Eichberg-Trautenburg 185 Spitz 122 Lienz 280-1 Eisenerz 191-2 Styrian Wine Roads 185-6 Murau 197 Eisenstadt 141-3, 142 G Vienna 98-104 Podersdorf am See 147 Gaisberg 242 Eisriesenwelt 15, 243, 15 hiking 13, 36-40 Salzburg 226 galleries, see