TRENDS IN APPAREL + FOOTWEAR DESIGN AND INNOVATION • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020 • A FORMULA4 MEDIA PUBLICATION

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PO Box 23-1318, Great Neck , NY 11023 Phone: 516-305-4709 Fax: 516-305-4712 In the Market...... 6 Footwear...... 34 www.formula4media.com A roundup of what’s hot for F/W 20; test method for Industry expert Simon Bartold discusses the materials and shedding debuts; new to watch; and more. science behind Nike’s much talked about VaporFly shoes. Textile Insight® is a registered trademark of Formula4 Media, LLC. ©2020 All Technology...... 15 Trendsetter...... 36 rights reserved. The opinions expressed Despite challenges, the market aims to move forward Vionic Pro Footwear gets the job done with style and by authors and contributors to Textile Insight are not necessarily those of the in 2020. Writer Debra Cobb offers an industry outlook. substance for professionals on their feet all day. editors or publishers. Textile Insight is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts, Made in America...... 18 Survey...... 40 photographs or artwork. Articles Textile suppliers and domestic makers are revitalizing regions This installment of Trend Insight Consumer delivers research appearing in Textile Insight may not be with investment, employment and strategic direction. on purchasing decisions by active outdoorists with feedback reproduced in whole or in part without conducted on MESHI’s Insight Platform. the express permission of the publisher. Strategies...... 20 Textile Insight is published bi-monthly: Small firms with big ideas are finding traction in the apparel Jan/Feb; Mar/Apr; May/Jun; Jul/Aug; Education...... 44 Sep/Oct; and Nov/Dec. space with innovation backed by unique story telling. Researchers at University of British Columbia create a chemical process to convert cotton waste into high-value nanofibers. Postmaster: Send address changes to Cover Story...... 26 Textile Insight, P.O. Box 23-1318 Performance textiles are increasingly modern travel Out of Context...... 46 Great Neck, NY 11023 companions. We spotlight the latest developments. Staying warm is about a lot more than test results, writes textileinsight.com Kurt Gray, outlining how real world performance factors in. TEXTILE TALK | EMILY WALZER

Will Performance Define Outdoor in the New Decade?

24/7 on-the-go culture. These trends take shape on the following pages. Stories explore how textile suppliers re-frame innovation in new and different ways, and how small companies are having a big impact using textiles to tell stories that align with customer values. We spotlight multi-tasking textiles that raise the bar on apparel and footwear tuned for travel, workwear and service industry professionals — categories to watch in 2020 — and provide updates on cotton, , and insulation essentials. was caught off guard at a trade show recently when But here’s the thing: where does this leave an exhibitor stopped me in the aisle and asked what performance? Has our planet-saving state of mind pushed II thought were the most influential trends of the past performance aside? Does the desire for comfort and decade. I like I was on a game show and had to buzz convenience take an important edge off of hard-core in my answer quickly so as not to be eliminated from functionality? Is low-impact the new high-tech? the conversation. Off the top of my head I responded: Textile driven performance put outdoor on the map, “sustainability,” “speed to market,” and “active and yet “performance” wasn’t on the tip of my tongue lifestyle.” The exec nodded in a manner indicating for when asked about game-changing industry trends. I like me to elaborate. I ventured on, rattling off a number of how my North Face parka keeps me snug while waiting on climate-positive examples of material innovation and the platform for the 7:08 train from New Haven into Grand supply chain practices introduced during the past few Central on a stormy winter morning. And my hiking years. I made a case for speed to market pointing out buddies swear by their SmartWool baselayers. This been- the fact that new product is now presented constantly there, done-that functionality is all well and good. But at Has our and seamlessly year-round, with no regard to season, the upcoming trade shows, it will be my turn to ask that planet- or traditional time lines. I explained that in fact I had exec: How will performance influence the next decade? In attended a seminar about consumers’ “want it all, and the meantime, feel free to buzz in with your responses. I saving want it now” expectations. Fairly out of breath at this welcome your thoughts! state point, but determined to fulfill what I now deemed an of mind impromptu work assignment, I mentioned to the exec Happy 2020, how an increasingly urban-centric outdoor audience over pushed the past decade played a big role in ushering in a new performance breed of comfortable, versatile fabrications that fit the aside? everyday needs as well as the fitness requirements of our Emily

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4 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2020 textileinsight.com

IN THE MARKET | OR+SS PREVIEW Eco Performance in Lightweight Weather Protection Directional in Fall/Winter 2020. Warming Trends

breathable. Previously a single fabric development for four years the aero- technology, the new Pro is differenti- brane membrane’s unique structure ated into three products: one optimized consists of an ultra-fine, hydrophilic for 20 percent stretch, another for polyurethane composite that dif- breathability, and a third for durability, fers from other film-based membranes allowing apparel makers to tailor the and offers a softer feel and beautiful, tech for specific activities. The new fluid textile characteristics. aerobrane Gore-Tex Pro features recycled content features in Outlier’s Experiment 200 nnovation is in high gear for materials and solution-dyed backers “Ecstasy in the Rain” jacket launched the season ahead as textile sup- to minimize environmental impact. in December. Ipliers continue to explore new Toray unveils new technologies Unifi previews sustainable and tech- and improved ways to deliver that provide significant upgrades nical developments, an evolution lightweight, yet highly functional regarding fiber production from in activewear knits, and program fabrications for cold weather wear. PET plastic bottles. One technology initiatives. New is availability Advancing product development produces a pure white fiber, provid- of Repreve cationic qualities in and supply chain practices that ing greater end use applications, response to demand for perfor- focus on sustainability is also a key while the other new tech offers a mance heathers but with recycled element of introductions slated for proprietary traceability system that . The company also spot- Fall/Winter 2020. can identify specific contaminants lights the Repreve Our Oceans, Important too are upgrades in in the raw materials. Toray has a global initiative that works to membrane technology. This cat- created a new brand called “&+” prevent bottles from entering the egory has gotten buzzy in recent to market the development. waterways via programs in coastal seasons with an uptick in e-spinning Concept III Textiles showcases sus- areas of development regions. 33 capabilities and creativity around tainability throughout its collections, percent of the flake that goes into air permeability in waterproof/ including a new collaboration with the of a 100 percent Repreve breathable fabrics. Lenzing. Solution dyed products will come from coastline identified Eco remains a central talking that all the boxes in terms post consumer bottles. A variety of looks from the Concept III point. Recycled, biodegradable, of eco and performance for color x Lenzing Tree Climate collection. regenerative, compostable, upcy- HeiQ adds bio-based thermo-func- will preview along with lightweight, cled, bio-based, plant-based, tional polymer products to its HeiQ high fabrication ideal climate-positive, -zero impact, Smart Temp family for a full range of for outer midlayer warmth. Hard- or mono-material construction are intelligent thermoregulation triggered working durable fabrics developed all aspects of today’s material world, by body heat. The newly introduced for modern workwear are top of mind and part of the conversation not products add dual-action cooling at for brand partners such as Carhartt only in textile circles, but through- contact to the already successful and several others. out the Denver Convention Center. dynamic evaporative cooling technol- Other categories to keep an eye highlights award winning ogy. The HeiQ Fresh product category Latest on at OR+SS are performance knits; knits, new brand activations and a of odor control technologies will also developments recycled materials with improved re-position for the consumer market. feature. aesthetics; and durable materials On display, the ISPO Textrend Pertex takes a strong sustainability tie nicely that promote “longevity,” a trending award winning Cordura 4Ever col- stance with the launch of the super- into today’s word for 2020. lection of softened strength knits light 10-denier Pertex Quantum market trends These latest developments tie and Performance Natural wovens made from 100 percent recycled nicely into today’s market trends of individuals that include 2 and 4-way stretch , and YFuse fabrics made from of individuals looking for quality looking Cordura , and performance 100 percent recycled polyester and products with sustainability stories for quality Cordura Combat Wool with filament 100 percent recycled nylon. The and branded materials that they products with integration. company’s ambitious eco targets can trust. sustainability Schoeller spotlights its new aerobrane for 2022 include that 80 percent stories and Here’s what’s on tap for the season e-spinning membrane technology, the of fabrics produced to contain a branded ahead: PROEARTH collection of biode- minimum of 50 percent recycled materials that W.L. Gore releases a new version gradable textiles, and wool updates, content and 100 percent of fabrics they can trust. of Gore-Tex Pro, the first update in including recycled wool and wool produced to use non-fluorinated seven years for its flagship waterproof/ blends with performance tech. In DWR finishes. l

6 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2020 textileinsight.com Visit us at Outdoor Retailer Snow Show, Booth 54005-UL

SUSTAINABLE TEXTILES AND TECHNOLOGIES FROM SCHOELLER

CREATING THE FUTURE SINCE 1868 Founded in 1868 with headquarters in Switzerland, Schoeller Textil AG is a global leader in high-performance , specializing in the sustainable development and production of innovative textiles and textile technologies. As a system supplier of solution-oriented products, Schoeller addresses specifi c customer requirements and supplies its customers and partners with tangible added value.

www.schoeller-textiles.com IN THE MARKET | OR+ SS PREVIEW Brands Serve up Functional Fabrications that Deliver Comfort in the Cold. Fresh Takes on Technical

he latest looks for Fall ’20 reflect how performance is creativity and street attitude, in functionally proficient product. In interpreted for the new decade. Gone is the conventional other words, and footwear made with materials that can hard-core, rugged approach to functionality defined withstand whatever Mother Nature has up her sleeve in terms of T often by over engineered pinnacle product, restrictive cold, windy and wet conditions, but conceived and constructed in everyday comfort and style. What’s happening now is envi- for today’s active, eco-aware outdoor audience. A selection of new ronmentally mindful development and design driven by comfort, styles are shown here: l

Patagonia’s R1 Air collection is made with a lightweight technical 5.7-ounce, 100 percent Synchroknit by Wigwam technology debuts in Trail Junkie and recycled polyester jacquard fleece that has hollow-core in a unique zig-zag pattern Snow Junkie Merino wool styles. Synchroknit technology creates to regulate body heat, and HeiQ Fresh durable odor control. The fabric is bluesign approved a precision fit that is enhanced by the luxe feel and durable and Fair Trade certified sewn. functionality of Merino.

Yulex plant-based rubber alternative is used in this men’s Bozeman Tall boot style from BOGS.

The Women’s Solice boot by ECCO features PrimaLoft BIO, a 100 percent recycled, biodegradable insulation.

The North Face’s Summit L5 FUTURELIGHT Ventrix Jacket The Flylow Kane Jacket’s Intuitive Perm fabric is ultra- is super-breathable with stretch synthetic insulation. breathable yet achieves a 20k waterproof rating in a Intentionally not a fully taped, the shell provides storm super-light, no gimmicks backcountry jacket. protection without overbuilding the garment.

8 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2020 textileinsight.com 190910-SEN-ad-ti-full-pg-bleed-v2-press.indd 1 9/10/19 10:22 AM IN THE MARKET | ECO UPDATE Advances in Sustainable Material Development & Ethical Textile Production.

Turkey Raises the Bar in Eco Responsibility Alternative Leather he organic farming implementing responsible pro- Comes to Market industry has boomed duction processes in the long T in Turkey: Between term by assessing six different 2002 and 2016, the volume of areas of production condi- organic goods production has tions. These are Chemicals increased almost seven-fold, management, Environmental and the number of organic performance, Environmental products available increased management, Social respon- by 50 percent. sibility, Quality management Soft and breathable, Turkish and Health protection and organic wool and cotton are safety at work: Together they increasingly used in a variety provide an overall analysis that of end use applications from documents ISKO’s responsible children’s wear and home tex- commitment in a clear and tiles, to intimate apparel and complete way. mattresses. Driven by the coun- STeP integrates the inde- try’s strict organic agriculture pendent verification system laws, established in 1994 and “Responsible Innovation” Detox To Zero by OEKO-TEX,

strengthened in 2004 as part through the development allowing businesses to deter- Photo source: felderfelder.com of EU harmonization policies, and implementation of best mine the status of chemicals Turkey has emerged as a leader practices, ISKO fulfilled the management and wastewater in the production of top-quality certification’s strict require- quality in compliance with the sustainable fabrics. ments, relying on six different goals of the Greenpeace Detox Specifically, the number modules to assess important Campaign. of different organic products areas of production. This fol- “Responsibility and innova- offered by Turkish producers lows ISKO being awarded both tions go hand in hand, at ISKO,” FW focuses on developing technologies increased from 150 types in the rigorous EU Ecolabel and explained senior sustainabil- based on the sustainable use of plants 2002 to 225 types in 2016. The Nordic Swan Ecolabel previ- ity and CSR executive Ebru Nand natural . The Peoria, IL-based nation’s 698 percent increase ously. These achievements are Ozkucuk Guler. “To be awarded firm’s latest innovation is an alternative leather in overall output of organic in line with the manu- with such a prestigious cer- called Mirum. A high-performance plant-based materials is noteworthy, with facturer’s goal of 100 percent tification is proof that one material, Mirum uses 100 percent natural inputs production volume increasing sustainable and ethical denim has to look at the big picture: and is completely free of petroleum-based from 310 thousand tons in 2002 production based on three sustainable actions need to plastics. Mirum will decompose a garden and to 2.5 million tons in 2016. main pillars: creativity, com- involve and take into account can be recycled into new goods. The material petence and citizenship. the entire value chain, in the debuted at last year’s Fashion Week Certified Responsible According to the com- long run, considering not only in the collection of FELDER FELDER. ISKO is the first Turkish pany this new certification production steps but also the The company has recently brought on Oihana mill to be awarded Oeko-Tex highlights where even better development of a healthy and Elizalde as general manager of the Mirum busi- STeP certification. Fostering l choices can be made, aiming at safe work environment.” ness unit of NFW. Previously, Elizalde served as director of technology at BASF, the world’s largest chemical company strongly focused on sustainability. Elizalde’s career started in Hyosung Expands materials science research and development, Recycled Offering helping companies in multiple industries transform their products at a molecular level or 2020, Hyosung will introduce its regen collection to be safer and more sustainable. of 100 percent recycled multi-function, performance Her hire comes on the heels of NFW’s hire F fibers ( nylon and polyester). The Korean of Greg Stillman, previously of Fashion for textile supplier highlights three new qualities. Specifically: Good, as director of business development. creora regen spandex, made of 100 percent reclaimed waste In addition to Mirum, NFW, founded in 2015, (pre-consumer); Robic regen, the first recycled, high-tenacity has developed a natural materials platform. nylon made from 100 percent reclaimed waste for tough The company’s Welded Fiber Technology gear like backpacks, bags and workwear: and multi-function consists of closed loop processes and clean recycled cooling nylon and polyester fibers. l chemistries that produce durable items that have a positive impact on the environment. l

10 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2020 textileinsight.com Investing in Sustainability New Test Method Aids Effort to Tackle Microfiber Shedding Issue. mphasizing a responsibility to focus on the test, which has been shared with TMC members. climate crisis and plastic waste in the ocean, Researchers are already onto the next phase of EVaude director Antje von Dewitz, said in a work that entails building a database of informa- recent keynote address, “We need everybody on tion regarding the impact of different fibers, yarns, this path. The new reality is that brands need to fabric constructions and process steps with regard serve a purpose.” Vaude is considered a pioneer to fiber shedding at the material level. of functional, sustainable clothing and has been Sophie Mather, chair of The Microfibre climate neutral since 2012. Von Dewitz advocates Consortium, commented, “This is the crucial the use of caster bean oil as an eco alternative and bridge from deep academic work to the reality has set a corporate goal that all Vaude products of commercial product development that the be recycled or bio-based by 2024. industry is crying out for and building.” Vaude, along with other brands and several Dr. Jan Beringer of new TMC member Hohenstein textile suppliers intent on tackling the issue of added, “We’re excited and honored to join The plastic waste have joined forces with The Microfibre Microfibre Consortium and support this ground- Consortium (TMC). The organization, founded in breaking work with the University of Leeds. Sharing November 2018, facilitates development of practical the expertise gained while developing our Dynamic industry solutions to minimize microfiber release Image Analysis method over the last three years Photo: Alice Davies linked with academic research and supply chain will enable all TMC members to get a deeper production. The latest news from the UK-based understanding of the key factors and processes association is the launch of the first global microfi- related to fiber shedding. In turn, this will lead to ber shedding test method for the textile industry. knowledge-based engineering of low shedding tex- The Microfibre Consortium test method was Scientists at the University of Leeds developed the tiles for a beneficial impact on the environment.” l developed by scientists at the University of Leeds.

textileinsight.com January/February 2020 ~ Textile Insight • 11 IN THE MARKET | EURO REPORT How Digitalization Disruption Positively Impacts the Textile Pathway. By Louisa Smith C2B is the new B2B

push downstream in the supply chain is bringing change and impacting sales. Overall, the developments of digitalization have cre- ated a disruptive element to traditional textile ways, which, for all intents and purposes is turning out to be a positive one. The conventional, longer B2C platform is no longer applicable; we now have C2B as well as C2C, as consumers share their opinions, spark a rental industry and swap clothing through personal social media. Consumer app-laden life is also reflected in today’s he textile supply chain has traditionally been textile industry as a strengthened social and sustainability a linear process, from the fiber and textile stage, through mindset gives way to armchair activism — a powerful Tto designer and retailers, and then delivered to the influence the marketplace cannot afford to ignore. You consumer. However, as the consumer continues to only have to take Greta Thunberg as an example, rallying garner market control, particularly through social media, the younger global population in particular, to demand highlighting what they want, a helter-skelter approach a change for the future. is taking place. Increasingly, branded fiber ingredient As digitalization heightens consumer control and builds suppliers are communicating directly with consumers, eco-awareness globally, the fashion industry is reacting as well as collaborating directly with brands. Brands to requests made, with efforts in recycling, reduced emis- then introduce textile mills to the performance and sions and water usage, better living wages, faster speed functionality that consumers want. This new consumer to market, and full traceability. What’s interesting to note is that consumers insist on these improvements, yet they don’t necessarily want to know the details. They just want to know that fair play is part of the textile chain in an industry that has to adapt to a modern marketplace. Transparency is key, with many brand websites provid- ing hyperlinks taking consumers through to the different stages of the production of the garment, to QR codes replacing the traditional care labels and highlighting garment origin, and how to dispose of clothing correctly at the end of its lifecycle.

Today’s Waste Not, Want Not Ethos According to Fashion Industry Waste Statistics from EDGE, nearly 20 percent of global waste is produced by the fashion industry, and about 15 percent of fabric intended for clothing ends up on the cutting floor. While the quantity of garments sent to landfill varies, the orga- nization gives a rough estimate of 10 million tonnes/year in the USA alone. Businesses are working to change that reality. The Italian firm Assyst, for example, now features digitalization of design and sampling with technology that delivers 3D garments on a screen. The images are so realistic from silhouette to fabric that you actually believe these are real samples, filmed for effect. The benefit in this area is the reduction of waste at the sample stage combined with a more controlled delivery at the production stage, Disruptive with fewer rejections of garments and an accelerated elements shake up speed from sampling approval to production. the supply chain This update fits nicely with the consumer “waste not, want creating a helter not” attitude toward consumption, and is helping to grow skelter approach, the clothing rental market in everything from the winter which will give way to better processes sports market to luxury fashion. Something Borrowed, for in the long run. example, is an online subscription company that registers

12 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2020 textileinsight.com consumers’ sizing and preferences in colors and style on its information on the developments of a garment from the website, and for a monthly fee sends a selection of clothing, initial concept to the final product enhances the entire Consumer to be returned by the consumer at the end of the month. value chain. The closer connection and collaboration of armchair Clothing gets dropped off at a courier point in a company- products leads to a more efficient process but also, more activism is provided durable bag where customers pick up the next importantly, less waste on the inventory side. growing; a month’s offering. The end result: eliminating closets stuffed As we embrace more efficient systems, digitalization powerful with clothing hardly ever worn. has gone one step further with Instagram influencers, as influence the digital clothes hit the market. The concept, using technol- marketplace Blockchain Benefits ogy from the gaming industry, that for a fee, a designer cannot afford Brands have to become more diligent about inventory, will create a digital outfit for the subscriber, who can then too. In 2018 Burberry destroyed unsold clothes, acces- post on Instagram an image wearing their unique look. to ignore. sories, and perfume worth over $36M, in protecting their The ultimate in sustainability and waste-free fashion, but intellectual property rights and brand value. That same only for effect, as the garment will never be made, instead year unsold H&M products were being burnt instead of just a digital fashion statement to impress the followers. coal in Sweden. (Since then, however, H&M is pursuing As the supply chain shifts and becomes an infinite loop, one of the strongest sustainability programs to redress the consumer is now embedded in the decisions made and their errors.) influencing the industry to conform to better practices. The Blockchain technology is essential in avoiding situations disruption experienced now, combined with the digitalized like this, with all stages of the textile chain guaranteeing tools available, help ensure that the textile industry towards transparency and traceability. Being able to access the a cleaner pathway in the new decade. l

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Hyosung Introduces its New regen Sustainability Program Featuring 100% Recycled, Multi-Function Fibers

s sustainably-made products have become high-tenacity nylon without compromising the more of a consumer expectation than fibers’ high-performance features,” said Mike A just an industry trend, brands are relying Simko, Hyosung Global Marketing Director- on strong collaborations with their supply chain Textiles. “It was equally important to make these to make apparel and gear that consumers feel fibers with 100% reclaimed waste as with every good about purchasing. To help brands produce ton of recycled spandex we produce, we save enduring, eco-friendly products their customers approximately 2 tons of non-renewable raw are anticipating, Hyosung has developed its new material being extracted from the earth.” regen sustainability program of 100% recycled multi-performance fibers Hyosung’s new regen program also “With every that will be introduced ton of recycled extends to its multi-function nylon and during the 2020 winter spandex we polyester fiber collections and features: trade show season. produce, we save • regen askin polyester cooling and UV approximately Among Hyosung’s latest protective fiber 2 tons of developments are the non-renewable company’s new creora® • regen cotna polyester natural touch fiber raw material regen recycled spandex • regen aerocool polyester sweat-absorbing being extracted and quick-drying fiber from the earth.” made from 100% reclaimed waste, and its new MIPAN® regen robic, the first recycled high-tenacity nylon “Having such a comprehensive package of made from 100% reclaimed waste. Both fibers recycled, multi-function fibers is quite unique have been adopted by leading brands for use in and we are excited to not only offer our partners various applications such as activewear, workwear, the best possible range of sustainable product Reuse. Recycle. Regen backpacks and bags. offerings, but to also help lift the industry as a “It was very important that we develop our whole by being better stewards of the earth,” ® ® creora regen spandex and MIPAN regen robic said Simko. www.hyosungtnc.com

textileinsight.com January/February 2020 ~ Textile Insight • 13 IN THE MARKET | WOOL UPDATE Wool Widens Availability with New Varieties, End-Use Applications. Merino & Beyond

being blended with a wider range of yarns and addi- Wools to Watch tives to provide performance, comfort, durability and Alpaca hairs are very fine and sustainability features. soft, having a diameter of only 15-40 microns, and are naturally hypoallergenic. Here are some recent developments: Yoga Wear: An innovative collaborative project intro- Cashmere is obtained from the duces merino yoga wear that is soft, yet abrasion undercoat of the Cashmere goat, with the diameter of the fiber resistant as well aesthetically appealing. Specifically around 18 microns. The finest developed to promote elasticity and enhance longev- cashmere is collected from the ity, the exceptionally fine merino wool features in a neck region of the undercoat. erino’s momentum in the sport bra, tank and leggings. “The Conscious Choice” In most cases, when cashmere active/outdoor market is giving way to increased inter- capsule collection is the collective effort of WoolMark, is finished into clothing, the is raised on the wool to further Mest in other varieties of the natural fiber. In a recent Suedwolle, Eva x Carola design studio and Santoni. improve softness. Trend Insight survey with feedback conducted on the Representatives from the firms explain that the 15.5 comes from the Angora MESH01 platform for Textile Insight, consumers were micron wool is engineered to retain stability. Using goat and has a distinctive frizzy open-minded about trying different kinds of wool. Santoni’s circular seamless technology with look because the guard hairs When asked, “Besides merino wool, which other types wool, the garments support the body as performance from the topcoat are often mixed of wool would you be open to adding to your workout wear while being flexible and comfortable. The technol- from the hairs from the undercoat. wardrobe,” alpaca and cashmere ranked high on con- ogy also introduces intricate and interesting patterns Mohair fibers have a slightly larger diameter, of about 20-40 microns, sumers radar with mohair also generating significant that contour the body. The collab serves as a prime similar to wool, but they are stron- positive feedback. Only 13 percent of the survey takers example of wool adapting to new markets, say execs. ger and smoother because they responded “not open to adding.” Outer Midlayer & Insulation: A new yarn made from a are also longer. Suppliers and growers are happy to oblige. In the blend of organic merino and alpaca comes from Schoeller Yak wool is produced from the past year, everything from camel wool to baby yak Spinning Group. Using no chemicals or dyestuffs, the coat of long-haired yaks found has entered the market. Insulations made from a slew undyed yarn takes advantage of wools natural colors. mainly found in the Himalayan of wool variations were showcased at the November Available in a knit construction or felted designs, the region, Tibetan plateau, and some areas of Mongolia and Central Asia. Performance Days trade fair. Cashmere, no longer eye-catching 70/30 organic merino/alpaca blend is Like merino, yak wool is naturally exclusively a luxury item, is reaching out to a more recyclable and biodegradable boosting its eco status. anti-microbial. mainstream audience with ads promoting the wool UK-based HD Wool is designed with the lowest carbon appearing in subways. footprint in mind, manufactured without use of plastics Diversification is also the name of the game with or harmful chemicals. It is grown and managed through Left to right: Super-fine Merino engineered for yoga wear, Merino. Finer gauge yarns are opening the door to new a traceable British wool cooperative, and sourced from Cashmere advertised on NYC applications. Realizing the performance benefits com- non-mulesed and assured growers. Imbotex Lab, subway, and high-tech Salewa bined with a strong eco element, lightweight merino is from Italy, has introduced CameLuxe is an upcycled insu- TirolWool jacket with Celliant. a natural for studio wear, for example. Merino is also lation described as ultra-fine insulating technology. The product is created from camel hair recovered from Italian mills that is processed into very fine fibers and then blended with recycled polyester. Performance Enhanced: Salewa TirolWool combines natural sheep’s wool with Celliant. The wool, blended with polyester, gets a functional boost with Celliant technology. Celliant’s thermo-reactive particles are inherent to the yarn and work to enhance circulation and enhance recovery. The natural/ synthetic hybrid, plus ingre- dient tech, results in warmth with added thermo-regulating performance. l

14 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2020 textileinsight.com TECHNOLOGY | COTTON INDUSTRY Facing Formidable Challenges, Cotton Business Aims to Move Forward. By Debra Cobb Industry Outlook

sidered “greener,” such as recycled polyester, organic cotton, lyocell and . 30% However, U.S. growers have reduced their environmental impact over the past 35 years through technologies and innovations in conservation and land management systems, according to Adams. The U.S. cotton industry recently released its 10-year environ- rom rising tariffs to falling demand, and from sustain- mental goals. (See info-graphic) ability issues to supply chain ethics, the cotton industry is Launching next year, the U.S. Fcurrently dealing with a perfect storm of challenges. Amidst Cotton Trust Pro- these difficulties, the “fabric of our lives” — long the fiber tocol (USCTP) of choice for apparel and home textiles — is determined was developed 13% to improve future prospects from field to marketplace. to help the U.S. According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) cotton produc-

Decrease Decrease Decrease Decrease Increase Increase 10 Year Goals energy water soil loss greenhouse gas land use soil For U.S. Cotton use use per acre emmissions effeciency carbon

tion sector further reduce its footprint by enabling growers to assess their performance against these goals. “The large-scale, mechanized and technologically advanced growing tech- niques in the U.S. mean that many of the concerns applicable in other 15% countries are just not relevant here,” Adams maintains. “We believe that the U.S. cotton grown today is the most Source: Cotton Incorporated 18% sustainable cotton in the world.”

November 2019 report, cotton stocks are Making Cotton Better high, and demand is falling. The USDA In less developed regions of the world expects mill consumption to decline in cotton is farmed primarily by smallhold- , Bangladesh, Brazil, India, Thai- ers. The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) land, Turkey, the U.S. and Vietnam. is dedicated to making global cotton Dr. Gary Adams, president and CEO production better for the farmers, for of the National Cotton Council, explains, the environment, and for the sector’s “The current escalation of tariffs between future. BCI’s two million farmers pro- the U.S. and China is a significant factor duced 5.1m metric tonnes of Better affecting a complex, global fiber market. Cotton lint in the 2017-18 cotton season, Since the trade dispute began in mid- accounting for 19 percent of global 2018, cotton prices have declined by cotton production. almost 30 percent.” 39% BCI’s sourcing model employs a chain While January’s tentative agreement of custody product segregation from between China and the U.S. for a phase the field to the gin; all bales produced by participating one trade deal offers some hope to U.S. gins are 100 percent Better Cotton and can be traced back farmers, many will continue to store the to licensed BCI Farmers. recent cotton harvest until prices rise. A “mass-balance” system of credits tracks the post- Demonized for its high use of water, ginning volume of Better Cotton sourced by BCI Retailer chemicals, and GM seed, cotton is being 50% and Brand Members while allowing it to be substituted replaced in fabrics by textile fibers con- or mixed with conventional cotton throughout the cotton textileinsight.com January/February 2020 ~ Textile Insight • 15 TECHNOLOGY | COTTON INDUSTRY

supply chain. Brands and retailers pay revise Better Cotton Standard System and other materials to “provide source conflict-free cotton can do a fee to BCI relevant to the volume of policies and procedures with the goal innate chemical evidence of their so confidently,” explains Hodges. Better Cotton they source; but their of preventing and detecting forced chemical, geographic, and industrial end product may or may not contain labor. provenance.” Improving Cotton’s Prospects Better Cotton. Lena Staafgard, BCI’s COO, remarks, This means, explains Wan, that The cotton industry is moving BCI explains that by using a system “Increasingly, consumers are looking cotton from a specific region such as forward. of mass-balance, the organization is for products that have a positive Xinjiang could potentially be identi- “I think market demand is still rela- able to reach more farmers and imple- impact on people and the planet, fied and separated from the supply tively high,” believes Hodges. “The ment more sustainable practices. while not taking brands’ marketing chain in the future. current zeitgeist for natural, plastic- claims at face value. Many are looking “Conflict cotton poses a signifi- free products has kept the onus on Supply Chain Ethics Under Fire for brands to be able to back up their cant social issue that many in the natural fibers; and the increased Recent reports from major newspa- sustainability claims with evidence.” fashion industry are working hard attention around the involvement pers are calling out “conflict cotton” Calling the Xinjiang situation to fix,” says Rupert Hodges, execu- of forced labor sees brands looking being grown, processed and sewn “shocking,” MeiLin Wan, VP textile tive director of Oritain, a company to established, reputable, cotton- by Muslim Uighurs in forced-labor sales at Applied DNA Sciences, Inc. that provides forensic verification producing regions.” internment camps in the Xinjiang reminds us, “Traceability can help of origin for cotton and other com- Adams concurs, “The last four region of China. The region supplies control conflict cotton.” modities. decades tell an encouraging story some 84 percent of Chinese cotton “Most brands do not view beyond Oritain is partnering with COTTON of continuous improvement in U.S. products, sourced by a number of their Tier 1 suppliers. But the days USA to provide forensic verification cotton production. As the fashion global brands. of ‘not wanting to know’ are quickly of origin for all US cotton. Oritain’s industry increasingly scrutinizes its In the 2017/18 cotton season ending; and the consumer is asking forensic science analyses both trace supply chain and actively commits China accounted for 23.1 percent ‘what are brands actually doing?’” elements and stable isotopes to to sustainable sourcing, we believe of Better Cotton production. While Applied DNA’s CertainT platform provide the most accurate origin that U.S. cotton will become an even BCI acknowledges it is aware of and combines its SigNature T molecular information. more desirable choice.” concerned by reports of the situation tagging of textile fibers with a robust As the USCTP launches in Febru- Staafgard reminds us, “To safeguard in Xinjiang, it has found no direct program that tests and tracks product ary 2020, Oritain will work on the the future of the sector and secure the evidence of forced labor at any of along the supply chain to verify its pilot to verify cotton has come from wellbeing of farming communities, we the BCI-licensed in the region. authenticity. protocol-approved farms. must work to ensure that all cotton is BCI has laid out a plan that will In addition, Applied DNA recently “By being able to independently produced more sustainably. Ultimately, deliver a third-party analysis of the partnered with Molecular Isotope verify the origin of cotton back to we believe cotton has a great sustain- situation by the end of January 2020, Technologies (MIT), LLC to develop the US—a place free of conflict ability story, touching all aspects in and will use the report findings to isotopic “fingerprints” for cotton cotton—any brand wanting to a way many other options don’t.” l

“Increasingly, consumers are looking for products that have a positive impact on people and the planet, while not taking brands’ marketing claims at face value. Many are looking for brands to be able to back up their sustainability claims with evidence.” Lena Staafgard, COO, BCI.

16 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2020 textileinsight.com YOUR STORY MATTERS.

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ORSS20_Outdoor_Insight_Ad.indd 1 12/10/19 11:15 AM IN THE MARKET | MADE IN USA How Suppliers are Moving the Needle in Domestic Make. Finding Traction

Dan St. Louis described the growth he’s seen first hand as executive director of the Manufacturing Solutions Center (MSC) in a December interview with The Weekly RoundUp, a podcast dedicated to all things business in North Carolina. “There’s been extraordinary growth in start-ups since 2010, and when you look at the data 70 percent of these people are under 40 years old,” said St. Louis, adding, “this is opening lots of doors for small manufacturers, which we have clusters of here, that are willing to do small runs that are higher profit.” ews of factory openings and Located on the campus of Catawba Community facility expansion, along with reports of ambitious Collage, in Conover, NC, the MSC focuses on helping Ngrowth plans and commercialization of leading edge, commercialize product, with prototyping, applied R&D, home grown product is gradually becoming the norm testing and equipment onsite. St. Louis says he has Darn Tough CEO Ric Cabot (pictured in the United States. With entrepreneurial spirit, textile seen “a lot of crazy ideas” from aerospace to sporting below right with his father, company businesses are revitalizing regions with investment, goods come through MSC doors that proved viable. founder Marc Cabot) will oversee construction of a new manufacturing employment, and strategic direction. CBD infused compression sleeves are one example. facility and expanded office space in For example, new ventures in North Carolina put a For the past three years, North Carolina-based the year ahead. progressive spin on textile heritage. Founder’s Hemp and biomaterials company Nufabrx have been testing and developing a com- pression sleeve garment, called Hemp Squeeze, using Founder’s Hemp CBD Oil. The hemp extract is infused into the fibers of the Nufabrx yarn, a patented technology that delivers 3-dimensional, 360 degrees of active relief to the elbow and knee. “We’re taking a brand new industry — hemp, and taking an old industry — textile and we’re using new technology to help rejuvenate textiles in North Carolina,” said Bob Crumley, founder and CEO of Founder’s Hemp. “I never dreamed, when we first started this three years ago, that our Hemp Squeeze product would be made in Asheboro.” Jordan Schindler, founder of Nufabrx moved his headquarters in 2016 from Seattle to the Manufacturing Solutions Center (MSC). “To move my vision forward, I needed a home base that understood the textile industry,” said Schindler. “Health Wear is the next gen- eration of clothing, with CBD and other actives built directly into the garment itself.”

Advancing Performance AKAS Tex, a PA-based textile manufac- turing and design firm, has introduced a one-way wicking fabric designed to keep athletes cool, dry, and fresh, even in the most humid conditions. ProCool Stretch-FIT Dri-QWick Sports is a double-facing fabric with hydrophilic fibers next to the skin to wick moisture

18 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2020 textileinsight.com away, and hydrophobic fibers on the other side to keep for the long term,” Cabot was quoted as saying. “It’s “We’re taking a brand moisture from seeping back into the fabric. It also uses for the prosperity and job security of the people who new industry — hemp, Lycra for a four-way stretch and recovery. have been with us all these years.” and taking an old industry —textile “The hydrophilic side has a special diamond Georgia is also experiencing progress on the pro- and we’re using new which increases the surface area for wicking,” explained duction front. Following two decades of decline, the technology to help Sid Sharma, AKAS president. “It’s similar to a crest and opening of American Knits returns apparel manufacturing rejuvenate textiles in valley — the raised diamond gathers the moisture and to the town of Swainsboro. The new business bolsters North Carolina.” pulls it into the valley. We also use a special binding the domestic supply chain with regionally-located Bob Crumley yarn between the layers which ties them together, but textile suppliers Buhler Quality Yarns, Jefferson, Ga., Founder, Founder’s Hemp doesn’t allow the hydrophilic and hydrophobic fibers Gastonia, N.C.-based Parkdale, and Carolina Cotton “There’s been to mix.” It is manufactured without harmful chemicals Works (CCW), Gaffney, S.C. Premium knit tops using 100 extraordinary growth or finishes in highly controlled settings. percent U.S. grown ring-spun cotton will be produced, in start-ups since 2010, and when you look at AKAS sources raw materials in the USA and partners including T-shirts for a supplier to the U.S. military. the data 70 percent of exclusively with American mills for production. In addi- American Knits execs make the point that their these people are under tion to creating fabrics for customers, AKAS has its company represents a new story in terms of domesti- 40 years old.” own line of high-performance textiles including some cally produced textiles. “The old story was 20-plus Dan St. Louis of the top brands for absorbency (ZORB), food safety years ago, when many of the plants in the U.S. closed. Executive Director, (ProCare), and organics (ProEco). ProCool is the latest Over the last eight years, I’ve discovered that there is Manufacturing Solutions Center addition to the firm’s branded offering. a demand for U.S.-manufactured goods. And younger “We work with the The family-owned enterprise, established in 2007, has folks kind of care about where it’s made, the type of best American knitters grown by double digits every year, according to Sharma fabric that’s used and the sustainability part of it. We and laminators and and will be expanding its facility space two-fold in 2020. felt like if we could find the right place, then the demand have good partners.” Strategic decision-making, technical proficiency, and was there,” said managing director Steve Hawkins, at Arch Sharma CEO, AKAS Tex lean corporate structure has fueled company success. a recent media event. Managing partner Dr. David In addition to designing and making fabric, the Talton elaborated, “We want everybody to know that company has weeded out overseas businesses and we’re more than just another plant — we’re making a concentrated on forming solid partnerships with estab- new story here around how we treat people and how lished branded ingredient firms like Dow (Silvadur), we treat our customers, and our employees will reflect DuPont (Teflon), Invista (), and Lycra. to our customers how we treat them.” l AKAS recently announced a licensing agreement with Cotton Incorporated to manufacture and market the TransDry fabrics. “We work with the best American knitters and lami- nators and have good partners,” said AKAS CEO Arch Sharma.

Factory Investment Sock maker Darn Tough Vermont, based in Northfield, VT, is adding a new 50,000-square-foot manufacturing facility to its production next year, and expects to have 100 people working at the new Waterbury, VT site in 2021. The leased space is part of an ambitious five-year growth plan for Cabot Hosiery Mill, Darn Tough’s parent company. In an interview with the local press, CEO Ric Cabot said the company expects to sell 8 million pairs of socks in 2020. Renovations will start in February to create an addi- tional 17,000 square feet of office space in the facility with manufacturing starting in Waterbury later in 2020. The company’s headquarters and existing sock factory Hemp Squeeze will stay in Northfield. Darn Tough recently spent $2.5 compression million updating the 100-year-old Nantanna Building to sleeves feature hemp extract increase the company’s space for manufacturing and infused into fibers internet fulfillment in Northfield. of Nufabrx yarn. “We’re doing this to fund our growth, but it’s also textileinsight.com January/February 2020 ~ Textile Insight • 19 Revtown Denim STRATEGIES | UNIQUE BUSINESSES Niche Firms Are Finding Traction Through Differentiation in the Apparel Space. By Suzanne Blecher

SMALL COMPANIESBIG IDEAS

n an industry that can be dominated by September. We put out a call for real women recycling loop. Our Lana Series is a woolen shell huge conglomerates, small – and even via our customer database, social channels, and layer that is waterproof by construction and uses tiny – companies are standing out by website and used them as the basis for building no DWR or membrane. The biodegradable fabric Ipresenting innovative ideas. Here are the product. We had women of all backgrounds, is created by treating a tight woolen knit with three notable names currently on our radar. from fitness instructors, photographers, chefs, water and heat, creating a super dense weave and YouTubers just to name a few.” that doesn’t let water, yet breathes like your REVTOWN, Pittsburgh, PA favorite wool sweater. Houdini gear does not Comfort and fit can be secondary in denim. have to look technical, it just has to be technical.” What makes Revtown unique? How are you addressing that and how does Henry Stafford, CEO: “It starts with a really it tie to your mission? What do you have for the upcoming season high-quality product at an affordable price – “Our jeans won’t dig into your waist or cut off that illustrates the brand’s unique perspec- $79. But we also believe that jeans should be circulation or crush your crotch. We’ve even tive on sportswear? sustainable. That means they last wash after had some people tell us they work out in them “For FW20, we are launching the Mono Air series, wash, but it also means that we are commit- when they’re on the go and in a pinch; they’re the latest iteration of fabric based on Polartec’s ted to clean denim production. One hundred just that flexible. With a background in athletic Power Air concept. It’s a fleece specifically percent of all waste is recycled, and our denim apparel fit and comfort and durability, it felt that designed to combat the problem of micro fiber is sustainably dyed using shrimp shells, orange this hadn’t translated into the denim industry. release into rivers and oceans.” peels, and nut shells – saving energy, water, and It’s also why we created our ‘Digital Tailor’ tool, using less chemicals in the process.” which allows customers to enter their personal Your mission is “Houdini is a group of friends data and it sizes them up to 95 percent accuracy.” on a mission, always guided by our core Tell me about some of the unique materials values: Do good, play hard, push boundar- you use. HOUDINI SPORTSWEAR, Nacka, Sweden ies, have fun!” How does that translate into “One thing that we learned from our time [pre- what you create? viously working] at Under Armour is that it What makes Houdini unique? “We often say that people feel unrestricted in always starts with material and fabric. What Eva Karlsson, CEO: “We are proud of having a our gear, kind of like they can go do anything we found was Decade Denim, which is our collection where 100 percent of the fabrics are they want and the clothes would just work. signature and trademarked fabric made from either made from recycled/renewable material, When we find partners, whose values resonate premium Italian yarn and infused with four- can be recycled/biodegraded or are Bluesign- with ours, we tend to hold on to them. With way, dynamic stretch, and constructed with certified. We have set a goal of having our Polartec, that’s over 25 years!” the strongest fibers. Products look and feel collection 100 percent circular by 2022. For like a high-end pair of jeans, while they fit and FW2019, 63 percent of our styles are circular.” MINISTRY OF SUPPLY, Boston, MA perform like an athletic pant.” Tell me about some of the unique materials What makes Ministry of Supply unique? What do you have for the upcoming season you use. Ministry of Supply Co-Founder, Gihan that illustrates the brand’s unique perspec- “First, there’s our circular shell program where Amarasiriwardena: “We start with wardrobe tive on denim? we work with Japanese fabric supplier Teijin problem statements, research deeply, and design “We just launched our women’s lineup in late to create shell fabrics that can go around in a and test garments that solve those problems. textileinsight.com January/February 2020 ~ Textile Insight • 21 STRATEGIES | UNIQUE BUSINESSES

We’re on the cutting-edge of innovation: from while letting air meander through its channels. and our own direct experience designing and shape-shifting textiles to coffee-infused, odor The garment is 19 times more breathable than producing garments, we are in a unique posi- absorbing socks to artificial intelligence-pow- a traditional dress shirt. Additionally, instead tion to tackle this issue in a meaningful way.” ered jackets, we’re constantly pushing forward.” of leaning on quick fixes like chemical washes, we reimagine the composition of every piece — Should more apparel/textile firms include Tell me about some of the unique materials from design to the fiber level. For example, to science into the equation for creating cloth- you use. create wrinkle-resistant clothing, we call on the ing? How is this part of your mission? “Born out of MIT, our goal is to use science unique properties of polyester, which reacts “To us, it’s not about using tech for tech’s and technology to make clothing better - better to body heat to naturally release wrinkles.” sake — it’s about designing forward-looking performing, fitting, and better for the envi- apparel in a way that seamlessly integrates ronment. Our best-selling Apollo dress shirt What do you have for the upcoming season into people’s day-to-day, and solves everyday features NASA-invented Phase Change Materials, that illustrates the brand’s unique perspec- wardrobe problems. For example, we launched originally created to regulate astronauts’ body tive on sportswear? the first AI-powered heated jacket to market temperature in space. In addition, the shirt uses “In 2019, we introduced the world’s first carbon- last year, and while we wanted to ensure that a piqué knit fabric that has a honeycomb-like neutral dress shirt. Using our engineering the technology was solid, we also wanted to structure that provides coverage for the body, backgrounds, familiarity with technology, be sure that it was just a great jacket.” l Ministry of Supply Mercury Jacket Mercury Supply of Ministry Houdini Power Houdi Power Houdini

22 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2020 textileinsight.com

ADVERTISEMENT Dyntex Introduces World’s First Ultralight Biosynthetic Functional Fabrics

Environmentally Friendly, Functional Textiles Made of Biosynthetic Yarn and Biodegradable Fabric

yntex, developer and manufacturer of functional materials based in Bregenz, D Austria, has launched two world premieres: DYNTEX® Biodegradable is the world’s first ultralight functional fabric that only takes five years to biodegrade. Dyntex® Biological Origin is also ultralight and made entirely from bio-based raw materials. Leading premium manufacturers of athletic and lifestyle clothing have already expressed their interest in the fabrics. Working with specialists from Japan and Italy, Dyntex invested three years into the development Photo: Copyright: Dyntex/Othmar Heidegger of these two extraordinary biosynthetic fabrics. Dyntex CEO Mathias Braun is convinced that “they have what it takes to revolutionize the market for environmentally friendly functional fabrics. Our fabrics set new standards when it comes to athletic, outdoor, and lifestyle apparel.” Premium manufacturers have already shown great interest after initial talks. Dyntex is introducing the world’s first ultralight, organic functional fabrics.

Biodegradable in Only Five Years one-of-a-kind tactile properties and exceptional The castor oil plant is the perfect raw material Dyntex® Biodegradable is the first ultralight looks, they are perfect for stylish functional clothing. for such fabrics. It grows in arid, nutrient-poor soil, functional fabric that is completely biodegradable In a landfill, functional textiles made of Dyntex® requires little water, and is not edible. This means in just five years. The yarn made of the high-tech Biodegradable materials decompose into CO2, the castor oil plant does not compete with the polyamide Amni Soul Eco® makes it possible to methane, and biomass within just five years – this cultivation of food crops in the agricultural industry. produce fabrics of the highest quality that weigh was verified in a US laboratory that tested anaerobic only 38 grams per square meter. In addition, they biodegradation pursuant to the international Environmentally Friendly and of the Highest Quality are water-repellent, breathable, fluorocarbon-free, ASTM D5511 (ISO 15985) standard. Standard According to Dyntex CEO Mathias Braun, the and extremely durable, even under heavy use. With polyamides typically take ten times longer to newly developed fabric collection “plays a critical biodegrade. When combined with a biodegradable role in protecting the environment for future lining, this makes it possible to manufacture fully generations.” Accordingly, he sees tremendous biodegradable products. opportunities in the rapidly growing market for environmentally friendly functional textiles. An Completely Organic Yarn Italian fashion label will already be releasing the Dyntex® Biological Origin is made entirely from first jackets made with Dyntex fabrics in January. renewable resources, with the castor oil plant serving as the basis for the ultralight functional DYNTEX BIOSYNTHETICS FACTS fabric. A bio-polymer is extracted from the plant Ultralight functional fabrics that is then used to produce a particularly high- weighing as little as 38 gr/m2. quality yarn. In a special manufacturing process, Dyntex® Biodegradable: DYNTEX® uses this yarn to produce ultralight Fully biodegradable in five years. ® functional fabrics of the highest quality with one- Dyntex Biological Origin: Made from the castor oil plant.

Photo: Copyright: Dyntex/Othmar Heidegger Dyntex/Othmar Copyright: Photo: of-a-kind tactile properties and exceptional looks. Applications: Dyntex CEO Mathias Braun sees tremendous With this newly developed collection of materials, Athletic, outdoor, and lifestyle clothing. market potential for two new ultralight and manufacturers can completely eliminate the use Breathable, water-repellent, extremely durable. environmentally friendly functional textiles. of fossil resources.

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FUNCTIONAL TRAVELER FROM GLOBETROTTING TO URBAN TRANSIT, TODAY’S TEXTILES ARE GOING PLACES. BY EMILY WALZER

f it feels like contemporary soci- Wants More). “Comfort is driving life- product as a prime example. ety is in constant motion, it’s style in general and convenience is Performance knits are increasingly because it’s true. Whether for driving consumers’ ‘I want it all, and noted as travel-friendly fabric. “Cordura business or adventure, travelers want it now,’ intensity.” knits have evolved from tactical to continue to up their game; execs Comfort 24/7 is achieved with today’s active and continue to evolve as ideal nowadays hit multiple cities in a textile tech that levels up performance for travel,” comments Cindy McNaull, day for meetings, crisscross con- properties like moisture management, Cordura business development direc- Itinents within a week for trade events, temperature regulation and lightweight tor. New “Softened Strength” knits, in and rack up sky-high frequent flyer weather protection without skimping Cordura’s 4EVER collection, recently miles annually. Millennials make savvy on the feel-good attributes of softness were named an ISPO Textrend award use of credit card points to see the and stretch. Advances in odor-cap- winning fabric. (For more information world; Peru, City and Montreal ture technologies, along with new on these and other new developments are just a few quick clicks away with technical wools, reduce the need for in functional fabric turn to our OR Show free airline tickets and Airbnb housing washing and save time, while new CBD preview story on page 6.) at the ready. However, no matter the infused fabrications offer wearable destination, or the intent, what’s criti- wellness benefits. Other travel-friendly All About “Active Living” cal to on-the-go individuals is elevating functionality includes wrinkle-resist, Trend forecaster Louisa Smith uses the travel experience. And that’s where pack-ability, 4-way stretch and soft- the term “active living” to describe the textiles increasingly come into play. to-the skin feel. rise of textiles designed for on-the-go Multi-tasking clothing that does “Today’s membrane tech offers comfort and convenience. “It’s dress- more than just look nice is a key ele- modern solutions for increased air ing casually in relaxed mode but with ment of today’s travel wardrobe. “The permeability, comfort and waterproof a smarter look.” big trend driving development, in all protection. These are products you can Western Rise puts its own spin on apparel, is comfort and convenience,” wear comfortably. You’re not going this trend by minimizing the product, said Judith Russell, global marketing to overheat in city street conditions maximizing the fabric and letting the strategist, Nilit, in her presentation or backcountry adventures,” says textile broaden the “wear spectrum.” at Performance Days titled, Satisfying Schoeller Textil NA president, Stephen Says Western Rise co-founder Will the Consumer Who Has Everything (But Kerns, who cites Swiss firm Aerobrane’s Watters: “Our wear spectrum approach

textileinsight.com January/February 2020 ~ Textile Insight • 27 FUNCTIONAL TRAVELER

will check all the boxes for travel but not Creating a better version of what exists ACCORDING TO RECENT RESEARCH FROM give way to things like 12 travel pockets. drives development at Western Rise, Rather it will give way to a pant that you explains Watters. “Jeans, for example, THE WORLD TRAVEL AND TOURISM COUNCIL can wear when lounging in the hotel don’t hit the wide spectrum of wear – checking emails or wear to a business when it comes to travel for instance, (WTTC) THE TRAVEL AND TOURISM SECTOR dinner in New York City.” jeans are heavy to pack, and lack perfor- CONTRIBUTED A RECORD $8.8 TRILLION In other words, the Western Rise mance of lightweight technical nylon.” Evolution pant. Three years in devel- Western Rise will launch a new pant AND 319 MILLION JOBS TO THE WORLD opment, the pant was designed from the in February; a nylon, double weave with ECONOMY IN 2018 AND IS THE SECOND-FASTEST yarn up to feel like cotton but perform 4-way stretch, the fabric has a high dura- like a high-trade nylon. The result is a bility exterior and soft dobby GROWING SECTOR IN THE WORLD, AHEAD durable nylon Supplex with a soft hand, next to skin. It is designed to be pack- OF HEALTHCARE, INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY spandex for stretch, DWR performance able, lightweight and excel in comfort, and sharp style. says Watters. l AND FINANCIAL SERVICES.

MOLLY KREMIDAS Done in a Day Trip: From Boston to Portland, OR to Senior Sales Director, brrr San Jose, CA to San Francisco and then Denver, CO. Frequent Flyer: 2M miles on Delta, logged 132 flights in 2019 TIM SKEDZUHN ON THE Airport of Choice: Greensboro, NC. President Global Brandforce, HeiQ The benefits of a small airport: “If I’m running Frequent Flyer: Star Alliance member airlines; late, they see me coming and print out my board- 175,000 miles logged in 2019. ROAD ing pass!” Flight Routine: Movie, drink red wine, eat a meal, Travel Advice: When plans go awry: “There’s and go to sleep. always another plane.” Plane Preference: United 787 for its atmosphere; Best Travel Story: Having to take a small sightsee- United 787 Dreamliner for best cabin pressure. ing plane piloted by a civilian from tiny Mackinac Travel Interest: New Newark to Singapore flight Island, to Detroit airport to make a direct in 19.5 hours! AGAIN direct flight for a last minute business trip to Shanghai with brrr CEO. PAUL MIDDLETON Technical Director Brandforce, HeiQ CINDY MCNAULL Frequent Flyer: 110 flights as of November 2019. Cordura Brand Business Development Director Favors Emirates airlines Frequent Flyer: 1M miles on American, 1M miles on Local Airport: Birmingham, England. “If going east, Delta Birmingham; Heathrow is best if going west.” Local Airport: Charlotte, NC. “It has a hometown Common Trips: Taiwan (five times a year), , vibe and is a hub for direct international flights.” Bangladesh, Sri Lanka. Has been to every country in Packing Routine: Keeps duplicate sets of grab and . go items always at the ready. Unpacks from one trip, Travel Routine: Window seat, right side of the and immediately re-packs for the next. plane, so right arm free to work on the computer. Cindy McNaull Packing Advice: Take fewer shoes! Travel Advice: Hydrate, hydrate, hydrate, and CHRIS PARKES bring vitamin tablets that dissolve in water to drink West Coast Sales, Concept III Textiles on the plane. Frequent Flyer: 2.4M miles on United, logged 125,000 in 2019 STEPHEN KERNS Common Flights: Asia three times a year; Europe President, Schoeller Textil USA twice a year; flies domestically throughout the year. Frequent Flyer: United, nearly 1K, Premium Platinum Aisle or Window: Aisle Local Airport: Logan Airport, Boston, MA Travel Wardrobe: All Birds shoes, no socks; jeans Travel Wardrobe: Multi-versatile clothing that or khakis, wool polo. “I can wear a wool polo mul- stands up to all weather conditions while looking tiple times on a trip. It’s comfortable on the plane, in professional yet casually acceptable. China on a rainy day, or traveling by car.” Apparel Faves: Schoeller Dryskin trousers, merino Travel Approach: In and out as fast as possible. Molly Kremidas wool layers, softshell outerwear. Best Part of Travel: “When you take off and land safe.”

28 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2020 textileinsight.com

FUNCTIONAL TRAVELER WORKWEAR BUILDS NEW BASE AS CITY & MOTO STYLE TRANSIT WEAR UTILITY RE-TOOLED Above, left to right: Western Rise Evolution Pant; Mosko Moto apparel.

s more people opt for scooters the green wave of sustainability,” says Daniel traction among riders with its gear and a new and city bikes as a preferred mode Odermatt, marketing/sales, Stotz, the Swiss high-performance apparel collection. The of urban transit, and a growing company that owns and produces Ventile fab- Basilisk Jacket and Pant, for example, feature segment of the motorcycle crowd rics. (UK manufacturing and facilities eVent’s toughest waterproof membrane solu- veers off-road for backcountry both closed years ago.) A first time exhibitor tion, DVexpedition, while the packable Deluge adventure, workwear is getting a to Performance Days Munich, Ventile Fabrics jacket and Overpant uses eVent DValpine new tool kit. While high abrasion featured in the trade fair’s Performance Forum technology. Super Fabric textiles are used in Aand protective qualities remain fundamental, as a Top 25 pick. key abrasion panels and premium YKK zippers modern workwear is being re-framed to fit the Originally developed during wartime England, also feature. needs of a broader customer base. Ventile was designed to save the lives of pilots The latest versions of traditional hard-work- flying escorts on the Atlantic and Russian ing textiles are lighter in weight with enhanced convoys. The ships they flew from weren’t comfort features and a more active design equipped for landings, so pilots had to bale SCOOTER SERVICES ARE OPERATIONAL orientation. “Today’s workwear is 25 to 30 out or ditch in the sea. The high performance IN OVER 100 CITIES WORLDWIDE; percent lighter than conventional workwear 100 percent cotton fabric proved to be cool and has more stretch,” confirms David Parkes, and comfortable in the cockpit and warm and PARIS HAS AN ESTIMATED founder, Concept III Textiles. Brand partners impenetrable in the water. According to the 20,000 E-SCOOTERS. Carhartt, Duluth, Dickies and Milwaukee Tool company, Ventile fabrics “kept out the arctic are helping lead the charge in workwear’s cur- winds and the icy ocean, extending survival “Traditional jacket thinking was to make it rent crossover appeal. times 10 fold.” better, it had to be bigger,” explains Ashley Myhre, brand creative director for Mosko Comfort Protection Moto, White Salmon, WA. “Jackets were built Execs who attended the 2019 A+A International based on an old aesthetic with hanging liner INDUSTRY ANALYSTS FORECAST THAT workwear trade show in Dusseldorf last and integrated body armor that could weigh THE GLOBAL DUAL-SPORT MOTORCYCLE November say that a main takeaway was product up to 20 pounds. We take a different approach, that is getting more casual and better looking which is a premium shell that supports the MARKET WILL GROW AT A RATE OF all the time. IBQ Technical Fabrics, a - body armor and provides lightweight dura- 9.19 PERCENT DURING THE based firm specializing in textile products for bility, freedom of movement and plenty of the Safety & Durability workwear category functionality.” PERIOD 2018-2022. expanded its stable of performance textiles Myhre says the Dual Sport Adventure market Ventile Fabrics, made from high-grade with a new Black Dyneema, Black and is on a strong growth curve and Mosko Moto long staple cotton, is also experiencing an Recycled offering. products elevate the riding experience. “Our update. The fabric has long been a workwear The company additionally introduced reflec- apparel is purpose built to withstand soaking essential based on the extremely dense weave tive lights that can be integrated easily into rain and strong wind over the long haul while construction that allows for inherent water/ product. The new line came out of the firm’s sitting on the bike. On a 12-15 day trip that one windproof-ness and breathability without the protective textile business in the motorcycle jacket could be worn all the time.” need for a coating or laminate. Recent Ventile market. The company reports that there’s This Spring Mosko Moto will add to its apparel introductions include a trim 145 g/s2 fabric a lot happening in personal safety and sees collection. “Product will fit today’s performance (classic Ventile fabric weight is 240 g/s2); a growth in outdoor/action sports as consumers needs but also feature what backcountry riders 100 percent recycled cotton quality; and a increasingly value safety features. want in terms of packable, versatile, comfortable waterproof organic cotton fabric. Motorcycle is also the springboard for inno- functional clothing,” says Myhre. “This market “We’re finding relevance in today’s workwear vation at Mosko Moto, a brand focused on the is ripe for change and we believe in a blend of trend of lighter, functional fabrics, that also ride Dual Sport Adventure market that is finding moto and nature going forward.” l

30 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2020 textileinsight.com

INNOVATION | TRENDS 3 Key Textile Categories to Watch in 2020. Modern Day Performance

1. Bio-Tech biomaterials market was over $94 says Carlo Centonze, HeiQ’s co-founder billion in 2018 and is expected to and Group CEO. RECENT NEWS of the partnership reach above $256.2 billion by 2025. Devan Chemicals, a Belgium-based between Berkeley-based biotech Healthcare is the main driver of growth developer of finishing technologies, is start-up Checkerspot and W.L. Gore’s in this area by far. However, as we expanding its R-Vital range of microen- Innovation Center in Silicon Valley know for instance with Gore, develop- capsulated, organic active ingredients shines a light on what’s next in perfor- ments in the medical/health field, have and working on an upgrade of the mance materials. Specifically synthetic a way of filtering down to innovation Hemp CBD range, with other organic biology enabled functionality. “Synbio,” targeting high-tech performance fab- ingredients – CBG and terpenes – aka biomaterials, has been on the rications for active/outdoor. that enhance the properties of CBD. radar in recent years with firms such Devan’s CBD range, sourced in the as Bolt Threads and Modern Meadow 2. Health & Wellbeing U.S., is organic, GMO-free, pesticide commercializing synthetic spider free and contains no THC. and bio-enhanced leather, respectively. NEW APPROACHES to the wellness Devan’s R-Vital “Super Moisture Gore Innovation Center But this latest development with Gore category extend the ability of per- Boost” is a carefully composed organic brings biotech steps closer to the formance textiles to play a role in blend of avocado (a popular ingredi- active/outdoor industry space. an individual’s healthy lifestyle. Two ent in keto-diets) and amaranth seed Checkerspot’s sweet spot is a plat- material innovations coming to market oil (containing squalene) that helps form that uses microalgae as a tiny tap into today’s personal wellbeing/ to soften and hydrate the skin. The biological factory for the production of self care trend. New technology in the natural oils deeply penetrate into the oil, according to the company, which HeiQ Fresh range turns IKEA curtains skin, and contain fatty acids known to with a recent round of funding, the into air purifiers, and Devan Chemicals delay the appearance of premature company will use to develop perfor- upgrades its health and wellness range aging and to moisturize and tighten mance textiles. with Hemp CBD and skin enhancers. the skin. The company also offers The Gore Innovation Center in According to the World Health R-Vital “Cold Proof,” a finishing solu- Silicon Valley is an 11,000-square- Organization, over 80 percent of tion that releases organic ingredients foot co-innovation space complete urban residents are exposed to high such as camphor and echinacea to with a prototyping lab and co-working levels of air pollution. The concentra- protect people from the ailments of space that offers startups the chance tion of Volatile Organic Compounds colder times. to collaborate with Gore scientists (VOCs) indoors is generally higher than HeiQ Fresh Air on advanced materials science chal- outdoors. While many VOCs are not 3. Sustainable Sleep lenges. “The Gore Innovation Center considered as harmful to health, such is a place for experimenting with new as perfumes and fragrances, others RECENTLY LAUNCHED firm Delilah ideas, pushing boundaries and bring- such as acetaldehyde, formaldehyde, Home is the first U.S. brand to offer 100 ing together diverse talents to deliver nitrogen oxide (NO) and d-limonene are percent hemp sheets at scale nation- transformative solutions that improve attributed as responsible for significant wide. The company also offers organic lives,” said Linda Elkins, chief techni- negative impact on health, the World cotton towels and sheet sets certified cal officer. Health Organization (WHO) reports. to the stringent Global Organic Textile Previous to the partnership with HeiQ’s new air purifying technology Standard (GOTS). Hemp features natu- Checkerspot, the Gore Innovation targets this issue. HeiQ Fresh Air is ral antimicrobial properties, durability Center signed a joint development a mineral-based Swiss technology and is highly absorbent. agreement with digital health start-up infused into the curtain fabrics. It The interest and demand for organic Kenzen to create a comprehensive purifies the indoor air by using trans- fiber products is only growing. Organic wearable monitoring system employing mitted ultraviolet light (UVA) from the fiber sales in the U.S. reached another Delilah Home hemp sheets biosensor data and predictive model- sun to transform problematic VOCs record in 2018, hitting $1.8 billion and ing to anticipate avoidable injuries. into components of fresh air. The posting a 15 percent increase from Another Gore partnership, with the IKEA Gunrid curtain looks like an ordi- 2017, according to the Organic Trade firm Bonbouton, focused on the co- nary curtain but functions to provide Association’s 2019 Organic Industry development of a smart fabric used to cleaner air and healthier atmosphere. Survey. The organic fiber and textiles detect changes in body temperature. “We aim to improve the air quality in category continues to rank as the Incorporating Gore’s advanced materi- consumers’ homes with ease, simply largest non-food organic category in als enhances the comfort, durability by hanging up a curtain and utilizing the overall $52.5 billion U.S. market. and reliability of these products. the natural light passing through the “Delilah Home’s goal is to create an According to Zion Market Research, window. A simple tool for something organic safe haven in your home,” says in a report released in June, the global so important, fresh air in your home,” Delilah Home CEO Michael Twer. l

32 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2020 textileinsight.com

FOOTWEAR | INNOVATION How Materials Factor into Nike’s Much Talked About Vaporfly Franchise. By Jennifer Ernst Beaudry The Science of Speed

marathon record by more than a minute, finishing the Chicago Marathon with a time of 2:14.04 and setting a new world record. The common thread in both wins — and a topic of fierce debate since — was the latest iterations of Nike’s new racing franchise. Launched in 2017, The Nike Vaporfly 4% shoes were specifically created with the mission of improving running economy by four percent — enough to make a difference in an elite marathon pace of a few minutes, or possibly ast year closed with two eye-popping enough to drop a runner’s time from world-record pace feats in the running world, logged back to back in October. (at the time, 2:02.57) to under 2 hours. The shoes have LOn Oct. 12, Eliud Kipchoge broke the two-hour marathon been refined since their debut: the $250 Nike ZoomX barrier, long thought an impossible feat, with a time of Vaporfly NEXT% is out now, and a version of Kipchoge’s 1:59:40 during a specially tailored event in Vienna, Austria. race-day version, the AlphaFly, is anticipated. On Oct. 13, Brigid Kosegi obliterated the 16-year women’s To find out what’s inside the shoes that have everyone talking, we went to an expert. Simon Bartold is a podiatrist, biomechanics expert and CEO of Bartold Clinical, an educational resource for podiatrists, physiotherapists and sports medicine professionals. Bartold has spent his career investigating the relationship between shoes and feet, and has held positions in the industry including director of strategic planning for Salomon and international research con- sultant for Asics for more than a decade. Here’s what he had to say about materials, the science of getting faster, and the “arms race” he sees coming:

What makes the shoes different? Bartold highlights two technologies: carbon fiber plates (The Next% shoe has one; the AlphaFly prototype has three), and surrounding them, ultra-thick layers of Pebax foam. Pebax, a thermoplastic elastomer, is no stranger to footwear, and is frequently found in a more rigid form in soccer boots or as a plate in hiking product. The foam version of the material is less common. In the AlphaFly and Next% styles, the material makes up the super-thick, rocker-shaped midsole.

Why do they work? The carbon plate in the midsole acts as a lever, which improves the ankle mechanics of the runner and puts less load on their calves. The foam is the biggest contributor: the Pebax material itself is characteristically springy, and Nike ZoomX Vaporfly Next% in the thickness of the shoes it creates what Bartold calls “extraordinary” energy return. “Obviously, [the first shoe] was called 4% because the suggestion was that it would offer a four percent advantage in economy, that you would extend four percent less energy in it. And when that came out, a lot of people said, oh, it’s just marketing. But to date, all the studies have shown at least a four percent advantage, and some as much as six percent,” he said.

How does the material return energy? Bartold thinks it comes down to vibration. He explains

34 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2020 textileinsight.com Eliud Kipchoge leading the pack in a future edition prototype of Nike’s Next% shoe.

that a major cause of muscle fatigue is in to activate both the foam and the plate to absorbing and attenuating the vibrations that their full advantage. For a weekend warrior, pounding the pavement send through the the benefit is probably quite questionable.” body. Vibration puts stress on bones, ten- dons, muscles, nerves and blood vessels — a What will this do to the running shoe shoe design that could absorb significantly market? more of that input would make a measurable It’s complicated. A decision is expected impact on muscle fatigue. And the sandwich early this year from sport governing body boundaries of legality. I think the genius construction of the shoe midsole could act World Athletics (formerly known as the of what Nike’s done is they’ve enacted an much like a soundproof wall it resembles, International Association of Athletics absolutely brilliant marketing plan. There’s dampening vibration and giving the runner Federation) as to whether the technology never been a shoe where the manufacturer the extra energy, tests show. used in the Vaporfly shoes is permissible says it will make you faster and then the in competition, i.e., whether or not they research supports it.” Can anyone see time drops using the same give an unfair advantage to wearers of the The shoe has certainly kicked off what technology? shoes over athletes not wearing them. Bartold calls an arms race: Other major Probably not. “I think what most people “That shoe was already obsolete the brands are rumored to have their own are thinking is that these shoes are best day he broke the record,” Bartold asserts. new technologies debuting in 2020 in exploited by the very best elite runners,” “Newer, more sophisticated models are the run-up to the Olympics. “In the last he said. “Only the fastest athletes — elites certainly in the pipeline, and I have no 10 years, it’s been a complete innovation and competitive runners, and possibly even doubt at all that in 18 months to two years, vacuum in running footwear. “I’m really very fast recreational runners — will be able there will be other product to test the intrigued to see what comes next.” l

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textileinsight.com January/February 2020 ~ Textile Insight • 35 Vionic Pro’s Avery in blue metallic is fashionable and water resistant TRENDSETTER | VIONIC PRO FOOTWEAR

Fashionable Shoes Get the Job Done for Medical and Restaurant Professionals. By Suzanne Blecher Sole DIAGNOsIS

ust because folks work in the medical industry “We did a are great features when you think of things being spilled on it doesn’t mean that their shoes need to look survey through shoes. Especially for suede, we wanted something you would orthopedic. The same goes for service industry our ecommerce pick up and say, ‘this isn’t a work shoe.’ It has almost been employees who would appreciate footwear that site asking difficult to tell our story that this is water and oil resistant, is serviceable yet stylish. We recently caught up people in the because it does not look it.” Jwith Vionic Pro execs Laura Nogueiro and Taylor Leaf to medical industry Leaf: “Laura did a lot of research on what competitors are if they wear their chat about creating fashion-forward footwear for profes- doing in the market. We combined that with design themes shoes outside of sionals on their feet all day. “Our technology fits this need the office. for the season. Our Vio-Motion support is a continuation perfectly,” states Nogueiro, product line manager. “It’s not An overwhelming of what we have in our core line. We combined that with only the materials and color, but the range of product, majority the new Vio-Grip technology, which is a repeating tread too,” adds Leaf, senior designer. Here’s more from our said no.” pattern where any type of water or oil is transferred out conversation: Laura Nogueiro of the bottom surface so there is never any trapped. If you step in a puddle, you won’t slip.” Where did the idea for the line stem? “Pro is great Nogueiro: “Interestingly, we found there is no OSHA com- Nogueiro: “I’ve been here for four years and this has been because it’s pliance for shoes. We did ASTM F1677 (MARK II) testing a request I have heard pretty much from day one. I used very clear through a third party with other shoes in the market (Crocs, whom we are to work in marketing and consumers would be calling in Dansko). We put them on top of water and oil to see how far designing for. saying, ‘I work in the service industry; do you have any they move. Ours did really well in comparison.” There’s so much slip-resistant shoes?’ We would always say ‘no.’ We never opportunity with thought of it as a large enough group, more like a very technologies.” How are your shoes different from competitors? vocal minority. But then we started doing more research Taylor Leaf Leaf: “It’s not only the materials and color, but the range of and decided we had a shot.” product. There’s a slip-on, a up and an alt closure. It’s not an all-black to the floor outsole. I also work on active What industries do you serve? and casuals for Vionic. Pro is great because it’s very clear Nogueiro: “Mainly medical right now; Secondarily, restau- whom we are designing for. There’s so much opportunity rants. Our price point lends more toward medical, along with technologies.” with our materials and features. The shoes are water resistant, and sometimes oil repellent, so they have a How are you marketing the shoes? higher price point.” Nogueiro: “We have a medical team. The goal is to market Leaf: “Sometimes there are more restrictions in the service these more heavily in the next six months. Ratings have been industry where you need to wear a uniform. In medical, really good, especially on the Simmons (athletic-looking) this is a way to add a bit of fashion sense to your basic construction. We really want to target nurses with our line.” wardrobe. It’s the one place to play.” Tell me about offerings for men. Do people wear Vionic Pro beyond the work setting? Leaf: “The Landon came in August 2019. It looks like a Leaf: “Yes. Some of these shoes are a lot lighter than our running shoe. It has a runner’s toe and is more agile and inline models. In service, the shoes can sometimes be quicker on the go.” heavy due to the full-length rubber outsole plate with the Nogueiro: “Men’s awareness of the brand is not as high as slip resistant technology. We’ve combined ours with an for women. Women buy a lot more shoes, follow trends and EVA compound so it is an overall lightweight shoe. It’s men are just harder to get to.” multifunctional because it’s also comfortable and has some cool, fashionable materials.” What’s up for next season and the future? Nogueiro: “We did a survey through our ecommerce site Nogueiro: “For Fall/Winter, we have two new silhouettes for asking people in the medical industry if they wear their shoes women on the active construction, one with an alt closure outside of the office. An overwhelming majority said no. and then another lace up. Materials have a bit more depth, So, part of our goal was to make a shoe that you can walk some mesh overlays. In the future, I would love to see water out of the hospital [with it on], like a normal, cute shoe.” resistant . Overall, there’s a huge need for Pro. If you walk around the hospital, you see people wearing Nike Free Tell me about the materials in the shoes. on their feet. You need more support. You walk eight miles Nogueiro: “The Avery suede is water-resistant and oil a day in the hospital! We’re building awareness, building up repellent, as is the rose gold metallic suede. The Avery Vionic Pro the line with shoes that look cute and not like work shoes and Mable in other colorways are water resistant. These Avery Collection – and that are comfortable.” l textileinsight.com January/February 2020 ~ Textile Insight • 37 Nordstrom, NYC Evo, Portland

Ludwig Beck, Munich Ludwig Beck, Munich

Greene Street, Princeton Buffalo Exchange, Portland

38 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2020 textileinsight.com IN THE MARKET | RETAIL Retail Refreshed How to Stand Out as Brick-and-Mortar in a Digital World.

rom Portland, Oregon to and all manner of backpack styles alone makes for a great story. shop. This makes the store visit Want the purchase sent to Charlotte for pick up? No problem. Exchange if item doesn’t fit? Sold! Princeton, New Jersey add to the store’s regional flavor. (Evo also has locations in Denver, something of an adventure. Then and from Manhattan to Greene Street Consignment has Seattle, Whistler and Salt Lake City.) there are the Mobile Charging Munich, brick-and mor- grown from a single, family-owned Housed in the historic 120-year-old Station and the Express Service Ftar-storeowners are re-thinking consignment shop in Main Line former Salvation Army headquar- department – two of several au how to attract and engage today’s Philly, to now 10 locations in the ters in the SE district of Portland, courant features — catering to shoppers. Whether it’s a new spin greater Philadelphia/New Jersey the Rose City location of this action today’s on-the-go shopper. Plus on old-school concepts or bridg- area. Nassau Street is a main sports specialist also offers sev- the Shoe Bar where visitors can ing the gap between shopping and shopping drag located adjacent eral other cool talking points: an sip a martini while trying on a socializing, the savvy retailers to Princeton University and makes exceptional bike presence including pair of Sam Edelman boots. Not to represented here are succeeding an ideal setting for Green Street onsite servicing, a surf meets ski mention a visually beautiful store with fresh ideas tailored to fit a Consignment. Students, young meets skate mash up culture that with exceptional customer ser- consumer mindset both contem- moms with strollers, professors on allows for new and unusual brands vice. No Nordstrom card on hand? porary and conventional. their lunch hour and locals of all on display, and an art gallery space. No problem. Want the purchase ages are likely not to leave empty Lots of specialty outdoor stores sent to Charlotte for pick up? No Resale Revolution handed. A “Designer Display” as promote “community” but it’s the problem. Exchange if the item The reasons range from the abil- you enter the clean, brightly lighted real deal at Evo. The store hosts doesn’t fit? No problem. Sold! ity to buy brands they normally store sets the scene and a spiffed events and gatherings year round, The German retailer Ludwig can’t afford, or the fun factor of up consignment image carries however, even on a sleepy Monday Beck levels up the lowly “notions” hunting for a unique item, or an throughout from a nicely merchan- afternoon visit, handfuls of custom- category that once was standard increased desire to buy more dised men’s section to racks of ers were content to linger chatting issue retail fare, to a DIY haven for responsibly, but the bottom line top-notch premium brand denim amongst them self and the store handcrafts. Employees of the lively is nine million more people bought for women. associates. full service Haberdashery & Wool second hand clothes in 2017 than Softgoods brands of note: department advise on all topics, in 2016 and strong growth in this Outdoor Opportunities T-shirts by Richer Poorer and with products ranging from custom category is projected to continue Globetrotter is appealing on Mollusk Hemp, Vissla hoodies, zippers and buttons to embroidery in years to come. According to multiple levels. Literally, the outerwear from Burton, Nikita, needles. There is a variety of wool First Research, there are com- Munich store features 1000 dif- and 686, and Polyanna and Neff available and an extensive range bined more than 25,000 resale, ferent brands spread across four knit beanies. of sewing thread. Even if textiles consignment shops and not for floors that include a rain chamber are not your thing, the colorful dis- profit resale shops in the U.S, and for testing outerwear, a climbing Department Store Demise – NOT! plays and experiencing how Ludwig reports an estimated resale indus- wall and a paddle pool. Boutique Call it crazy, but Nordstrom’s Beck puts a progressive spin on try in U.S. of $17.5B. shops within the store (Arc’teryx, new flagship store in Manhattan heritage lifestyle is reason enough Buffalo Exchange, based in Icebreaker, Fjallraven and Hestra) has fast become a go-to desti- to stop in. A key takeaway here is Tucson, AZ began selling used create cozy corners for shopping. nation. Its opening in October millennial interest in this category; jeans and shirts in 1974, and Customers can take advantage of garnered significant buzz in a “sewists” is a new term for sewing now has 50 locations across the Globetrotters’ extensive travel city that has seen beloved depart- enthusiasts, for example, following country and wears its authentic- department, as there is space to sit, ment stores shutter – Lord & on the heels of “makers” for those ity well. A little dingy around the water to sip from an eco-friendly Taylor last Spring and Barney’s who enjoy crafts. Established fabric edges and crammed with a kooky water station, and leisurely browse in December are two recent exam- and crafting retailer, Joann recently assortment of apparel, shoes, and travel guides and maps. A sophisti- ples. What’s the appeal? The new launched a Creator Studio concept accessories, bargains abound at cated approach to merchandising Nordstrom store is not on Fifth store near corporate headquar- the Portland store. Locally-based and a Zen-like atmosphere offers Avenue, the traditional depart- ter in Columbus, OH and H&M brands are easy pickings; Sorel a welcome relief from Munich’s ment store mecca, and even long has started selling “repair kits.” hiking boots, Nike and Columbia urban bustle. time New Yorkers will likely enjoy Ludwig Beck showcases a trend jackets, vintage Patagonia apparel, Evo’s Portland, Oregon location trekking to a different locale to that translates easily stateside. l textileinsight.com January/February 2020 ~ Textile Insight • 39 TRENDINSIGHT We surveyed 164 consumers. Here is what they told us.

Which Textiles Matter Most in a When shopping for Winter Workout Wardrobe winter workout apparel and footwear, please rank the factors that most influence your purchasing decisions.

#1 WEATHER PROTECTION

#2 WARMTH

#3 PRICE

#4 STYLE

CONSUMERS ARE STICKING WITH THE categories such as commuter wear and tried and true when it comes to dressing winter bike apparel, are not yet high BRAND NAME for the elements this season. Across the priority among survey takers. Consider #5 board our survey results show that that close to half of respondents (49 “weather protection,” “layering,” and a percent) had no idea if their winter “waterproof/breathable shell” are what workout essentials were made of recycled #6 ECO-FRIENDLY/SUSTAINABILITY counts most for today’s active outdoor materials. Of those who did, a recycled individuals. For instance, a whopping polyester baselayer top ranked highest, 93 percent of respondents said that a followed by recycled mid-layer fleece. Compared to 3-5 years ago, “waterproof/breathable shell” is their most Another indicator that consumers are have these factors remained important winter apparel workout essential. content with the textile status quo this Interesting, too, along these lines is that winter: Over half of survey takers (57 the same or changed? the traditional hang tag remains popular. percent) report that they do not plan to For example, when asked, “Does the purchase a new jacket and instead will hangtag information affect your purchasing wear the same jacket they wore last year. n decision making in any way, 60 percent of Changed survey takers said, “Yes”. The survey, conducted by MESH01, included 18% Buzzy industry topics like eco- 164 respondents, men and women active in conscious materials and up-and-coming sports and outdoors, ages 18 to 60.

Stayed CARPE TRENDEM SEIZE THE TREND! the same 82%

Trend Insight Consumer is a feature within Textile Insight that delivers research conducted on the MESH01 Platform. MESH01 collects data from a select panel of sports enthusiasts. For information on the Mesh1 Platform, contact Brian Bednarek at 603-766-0957or [email protected]. For more information on Trend Insight Consumer and how your company can participate, contact Jeff Nott at 516-305-4711 or [email protected].

40 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2020 textileinsight.com POWERED BY We surveyed 164 consumers. Here is what they told us. www.mesh01.com

93%

Please select fabrics that are most important in your winter apparel workout essentials

59% 59% 41% 46% 30% 23%

Recycled polyester Cotton flannel Polyester fleece Synthetic insulation Down insulation Wool Waterproof/breathable shell

Does the hang tag information affect your purchasing decision in any way?

Selected Comments

Important not only to learn what the product and if I see something I like… Female 28 will consider the purchase. Female 46 is made from, but also manufacturing and Information on temperature rating is helpful I use it to look at weatherproofness and material origin, and to some extent marketing and guidelines on appropriateness for use. ratings for temp, durability, etc. Female 29 the product for specific uses.Male 27 Female 36 No Claims on hang tags inform me of a product’s Sometimes a feature will catch my eye. The more technical information that isn’t benefits, so depending on what I’m using Female 29 marketing talk is good and helps me make a the garment for, I do look at hang tags for Yes 40% I don’t care about that hang tag unless it’s decision. Male 58 performance features. Female 34 from a cheap retailer. Male 26 I want to know to what degree temperature I I like getting the product specs and details on 60% If it’s apparel, I tend to look for better quality am protected. Female 30 a hang tag. There’s nothing more frustrating of materials. And I lean more towards brands than having to get my phone to Google a I like when the hang tag suggests the that are eco-friendly. Female 39 product while in a store. Male 33 gear is for specific sports or athletes, e.g. I read about the function, but the feel and fit is backcountry skiing. Male 34 When waterproof/windproof is easy to identify, my final decision.Female 40 I am more likely to purchase. If I have to The hang tag will tell me the most important search for it and don’t find it, then it is no sale. The hang tag will typically list all the features feature, and if it’s what I’m looking for, then I Female 36

Which of these recycled materials are currently in your winter workout clothing?

45% 49% 30% 18% 8% 10%

Parka that has recycled Garment made with Parka that has recycled Mid-layer made from Base-layer top made from I have no idea poly insulation recycled nylon from down insulation recycled fleece recycled polyester repurposed fishing nets

textileinsight.com January/February 2020 ~ Textile Insight • 41 POWERED BY TRENDINSIGHT www.mesh01.com

If you bike or you run to work year- If you answered “yes,” what type of round, do wear products labeled functional fabrics do you look for? “performance commuter” wear?

42% Yes 32% 29% 28% 23% No 71% 11%

Abrasion resistant Odor Stretch Durabie Weather resistant resistant

If you are When already, or shopping 68% intend to for cold become, a weather cold-weather sports cyclist, 38% apparel, do is sport- you shop... 32% specific 15% winter bike-wear a purchasing priority? Yes No in terms of clothing “layers” in terms of one product that you will combine to that is most versatile create optimal warmth

This winter I plan to purchase...

57%

37%

1% 4%

A repaired A gently used A brand new I do not plan to purchase, insulated jacket insulated jacket insulated jacket and will wear the same jacket I wore last year

42 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2020 textileinsight.com GO TO MARKET WITH CONFIDENCE.

MESH01 puts the power of people and technology behind your product testing.

Gather critical feedback fast for every phase of product development from concept to launch.

Very Good 33.33%

Excellent 10.53 %

Fair 8.77 %

Good 47.37%

TO LEARN MORE, VISIT: www.mesh01.com/product-testing EDUCATION | UNIVERSITY OF BRITISH COLUMBIA Research Develops Process to Recycle Waste Cotton into High-Value Nanofibers. By Kathlyn Swantko A Load off the Landfill

gossamer-thin material was fed into an elec- Dr. Addie Bahi shows the value- trospinning machine, which produced very added nanofiber fine, smooth nanofibers. “While the process created through UBC’s new cotton itself is relatively simple,” cites Ko, “we waste conversion are thrilled that we’ve been able to prove process. This represents one of mong textile materials, that a high-value product can be extracted the first successful cotton is the most abundantly produced from something that would normally go attempts to make A nanofibres from natural fiber, with “more than 28 million tons into a landfill where it would eventually fabric scraps. For of cotton produced worldwide each year,” be incinerated.” more information, contact: Dr. Addie explains Dr. Addie Bahi, materials engineer- The pre-treatment of the cotton con- Bahi at: addie. ing research scientist at the University of sists of a two-level treatment: A scouring [email protected], 604- 822-2676, or Frank British Columbia (UBC). “In addition, the process to remove impurities (i.e. oil, Ko, frank.ko@ubc. recycling rate for cotton is estimated to soluble impurities, and other chemicals) ca, 604-822-2738. be around five percent, significantly less to produce a hydrophilic, clean cloth, and than the overall rate of a bleaching process to whiten the textile Bahi states, “Due to the significant upside 15 percent.” and remove the dyes. potential of chemical recycling methods, To address this issue, Dr. Bahi, along with After removing the contaminants, the fab- our research was done to determine the Frank Ko, lead researcher in advanced rics are ground into a fine powder, which can chemical recycling methods that are environ- fibrous materials and UBC Professor of be dissolved and used for electrospinning, mentally benign and economically viable. At materials engineering and their academic which is a non-mechanical technique used this stage, our method is suitable for any 100 team, began their lab-scale project of to create nanoscale fibers electrostatically percent cotton fabric constructions. Going converting cotton production waste and from polymer solutions or melts, accord- forward, we plan to modify our process for discarded cotton apparel into high-value ing to Bahi. blends as well.” nanofibers. Phase One of the project End-use applications that have high began in 2018, assisted by a BC-based Project Goals potential to be impacted by UBC’s research ecologist, and a local manufacturer of The ultimate goal is to replace the existing include formation of nanocomposite fibrils outdoor apparel supplying the cotton solvent lab process with an environmentally- and yarns: electroactive nanofibers for fabrics. Financial support was provided friendly scaled-up version. While the team ultrahigh sensitive sensor/electrode applica- by a grant from the Natural Sciences has limited its initial research to converting tions; bioactive nanofibers for biomedical Engineering Research Council of . 100 percent cotton waste into nanofibers, applications; and nanofibers that can convert The focus of UBC’s research is the devel- future plans are to begin working on cotton and replace petroleum-based opment of a chemical process to convert blends and manufactured textiles as well. for lightweight structural applications. l the cotton waste into high-value nanofibers. In recent years, the scientific importance To accomplish this, the waste cotton fabric of polymeric nanofiber, along with the Kathlyn Swantko, president of the FabricLink Network, was chopped into tiny strips and soaked in technological and economical advances in created www.TheTechnicalCenter.com for Industry networking and marketing of specialty textiles, and a chemical bath to remove all additives and nanocomposites, has caused an explosive www.fabricklink.com for consumer education involving artificial dyes from the fabric. The resulting growth in research activities on nanofibers. everything fabric. Contact: [email protected] FL-TTC-TI-2016-2_Layout 1 9/19/19 11:54 AM Page 1

The FabricLink Network How will they find you, if you’re not there? THE Networking / Education Search Engine for ALL Things Textile Related!

Why clients are excited about the benefits of The FabricLink Network Partnership Opportunities: Kristi Rummel “Thank you for all the support you have provided to FabricLink.com Concept III over the years. You know how much we value it. [email protected] 608.435.6220 Keep up the good work!” David Parkes Editorial Opportunities: President Kathy Swantko Concept III Textiles [email protected] 818.345.7501 TheTechnicalCenter.com

44 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2020 textileinsight.com TEXTILE INSIGHT MARCH/APRIL 2020 ISSUE MOVING THE NEEDLE IN DOMESTIC MAKE

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For more information contact: Jeff Nott, Publisher textileinsight.com 516-305-4711 [email protected] OUT OF CONTEXT Insulated Reality

By Kurt Gray

INSULATION IN THE CLASSIC SENSE IS THE muggy and miserable. The heat is oppressive weather becomes a recipe for serious discom- sum of two parts: dead air space and some because the hot, moist air is literally touch- fort. Water has this weird physical trait where it kind of substance that creates little voids where ing you. In cold and wet environments the can absorb huge amounts of energy without motionless air rests. The dead air space is same thing happens in reverse; body heat is changing from a liquid to a gas. When water important because, next to a total vacuum, still conducted away from you by cold humid air. evaporates it takes this latent heat energy with and dry air is as close to a perfect lightweight Great examples of this are riding outside on it. What that means to you and me is that when insulation as the natural world gets. the deck of a Puget Sound ferry in the winter, wind blows across wet skin, or wet apparel, The apparel industry measures insulation or walking across downtown Chicago on any it takes massive amounts of heat with it. Cold values with a benchmark Clo Test. It was origi- given night in January. wind is the biggest heat thief out there. nally intended to measure the amount of clothing Cold air has a physical limitation that greatly There’s one other thing I should bring up. necessary for an adult human to sit inactive in impacts staying comfortable over time. Super Humans are made mostly out of water. We a nice, warm, dry and draft-free room. A Clo cold air has a very low absolute humidity. That breathe out water vapor, our skin is moist and measurement of zero is the equivalent of being means the amount of water vapor the air can we sweat when we get too hot. Like when naked and a Clo of one equals the clothing hold is tiny and no we exercise in insulated garments. We can’t necessary to be comfortable while resting at matter what you do do much about the first two, but avoiding the Staying room temperature. The test results are linear it isn’t going to hold third is the key to cold weather comfort. Water Warm is and additive and mostly useless in relation to About a Lot anymore. The warm is what makes insulation systems fail. Windy, the outside world, however, they are the only More than toasty environment cold, and humid environments, combined with test numbers we have. Test Results inside your outer- damp clothing and sweat soaked skin, will easily When we wear insulation outdoors the condi- wear has trouble create conditions that conduct heat away from tions often are not nearly as nice as those in “breathing” water the body faster than it can be replaced. The the lab. Outdoor outerwear has to deal with vapor into the sur- Greeks have a fancy word for this, they call it three things in the real world that don’t factor rounding atmosphere in these circumstances. hypothermia. l into insulation testing at all — humidity, wind When the humidity from the body reaches the and cold air. outer shell of the apparel system the vapor is Disclaimer: Mr. Gray sleeps with a couple of Water conducts heat pretty well and a humid forced to immediately condense. The insulation fur covered heat thieves and he theorizes that atmosphere, such as air with a lot of water vapor gets wet and the shell gets frosty. Cold weather they are in some way powered by this stolen in it, supercharges the effect of the outside campers know this phenomenon all too well. energy source. Textile Insight’s Publisher may temperature on the human body. When it is Now throw in the evaporative cooling that not share in his opinions or choice of bedtime really hot and humid the conditions become comes with windy conditions, and cold, wet companions.

46 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2020 textileinsight.com A new Teflon® for a new world.

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