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Grazing Tainan Uses Only Freshly Caught Green Beans, Mochi and Fish, Making It a Local Brown Sugar

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Grazing Tainan Uses Only Freshly Caught Green Beans, Mochi and Fish, Making It a Local Brown Sugar / six dishes / SHAN YOU YI MIAN (eel noodles) A mix of yi mien (egg noodles), cabbage, garlic, onion and chunks of fried eel, this thick, sweet and tangy soup is a Tainan roadside classic. The stall on the corner of BA BAO BING (eight Guohua Street has been serving it for more treasure shaved ice) Tainan’s (milkfish than 40 years—order the stir-fried version SHI MU YU ZHOU ferociously hot summers call congee) This popular breakfast dish if goopy soup is not your thing. 46, Section for something cooling—bao is composed of tender milkfish, fresh 3, Guohua St.; mains from NT$80. bing (shaved ice) does just oysters and briny rice porridge. that. You’ll often find it topped Order a bowl with crispy youtiao with fresh fruits, but the breadsticks, and a side of deep- city’s signature style comes fried fish intestines if you’re an piled with “eight treasures,” adventurous eater. Ah Hang including peanuts, red and Grazing Tainan uses only freshly caught green beans, mochi and fish, making it a local brown sugar. Bing Xiang is a While Taipei offers a beginners’ guide to Taiwanese cuisine, favorite. 704 Gongyuan city-wide favorite known for serious foodies should head further south, to culinary South Rd.; mains serving up generous portions. capital Tainan—the birthplace of some of the country’s from NT$70. most popular dishes. Here, we seek out six 160, Section 1, Minsheng Rd.; quintessential local eats in this coastal food hub. mains from NT$50. WA GUI (savory rice STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY CHRIS SchALKX pudding) While this wobbly, brown dish won’t win anyone over with its looks, wa gui is a surprisingly toothsome snack. M IGAO (glutinous rice cake) Made from rice flour, pork and While called a cake, this classic shrimp, and topped with thick dish more closely resembles the soy sauce, it’s served in the ubiquitous Taiwanese lu rou fan same bowl as it is steamed (braised pork rice), but swaps out G UAN CAI BAN (coffin in. Traditionally eaten with a steamed rice for the sticky kind. toast) Said to have been created small wooden paddle (good Along with soy-braised pork, by second-generation shophouse luck with that), add some the Tainanese version is also Chikan Eatery in the 1950s garlic or wasabi for extra topped with fish floss, cucumber to satisfy U.S. Army personnel flavor.One Good Pin draws slices and boiled peanuts. Visit stationed nearby, guan cai ban is long queues. 177, Section 3, Shui Xian Gong Migao near a thick slab of deep-fried bread, Guohua St.; mains from NT$30. the Shui Xian temple, where hollowed out to resemble a coffin, constant crowds wait for one of and filled with sweet and creamy their hearty bowls. 48, Section 3, seafood chowder. 180 Zhongzheng Guohua St.; mains from NT$25. Rd.; mains from NT$60. MARKET MEALS TAINAN’S FAMED NIGHT MARKETS MAKE IDEAL GRAZING STRIPS—HERE ARE SOME OF THE CITY’S BEST. Yongle Market Hua Yuan Night Market Da Dong Night Market Wusheng Night Market Part–wet market, part-food This is Taiwan’s biggest night Set on a huge parking lot in the As Dadong and Hua Yuan court, Yongle Market and the market, so you’ll be spoiled for east of the city, Da Dong offers markets attract the biggest shophouse restaurants on choice among the 400 vendors a never-ending array of eating crowds, smaller Wusheng, one adjoining Guohua Street attract who hawk their food here. Seek options, as well as clothing, of the city’s oldest, remains diners from breakfast to dinner. out A San Ge Ke for their crispy R14 electronics, toys and carnival delightfully local. Foodie O Locals arrive as early as 5 a.m. oyster omelets and follow your T games. A fail-safe strategy to favorites include guai shu shu, for a pre-work breakfast, and nose to Jie Chan Xiao Pu for EN scout out the best snacks? the Taiwanese sticky rice pork M tourists take over around noon stinky tofu fermented in black Just join the longest queues. sausage found at Zheng’s for some of the city’s most tea (it tastes better than it Pork out on the fried salty short Sausages, and the sweet egg- ME.COM famous eats. It gets busy, but smells). Locals and tourists visit I ribs at Shan Pin, or line up shaped pancakes at Lao Zheng the popiah-like spring rolls at in huge numbers, so arrive T at Gu Duo Mee Sua for their Pai that can be ordered with Jin De and the gua bao around 6 p.m. to beat the famed gooey oyster vermicelli custard or red-bean fillings. REAMS (Taiwanese hamburger) at A crowds. Sec. 3, Hai-an Rd.; open D soup. Sec. 1, Linsen Rd.; open 42, Lane 69, Wusheng Rd.; open : FACEBOOK.COM/JIE. : T Song are worth the wait. Sec. 3, Thursdays, Saturdays and T Mondays, Tuesdays and Fridays, Wednesdays and Saturdays, LEF Guohua St.; open 5 a.m.–10 p.m. Sundays, 5 p.m.–1 a.m. RIGH 6 p.m.–1 a.m. 6:30 p.m.–1:30 a.m. 30 july 2018 / TRAVElaNdlEisuREASIA.COM TVRA ElaNdlEisuREASIA.COM / july 2018 31.
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