Full of Great Tours. Both Sides
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British Columbia’s Flathead Valley the Cabin Creek Road over the MacDonald Range into the If you like touring in wild places, and don’t mind valley, and then climbs to Akamina Pass on the Continental rough dirt roads and the occasional grizzly bear crossing Divide and into Waterton Lakes National Park (see “The your path, then the gloriously untamed Flathead Valley Wildest Valley” by Aaron Teasdale in the September, 2005 in British Columbia’s far southeastern corner is for you. issue of Adventure Cyclist). It’s possible to hire a shuttle in TEN TOP Bordering Glacier and Waterton Lakes national parks, the Fernie to haul you and your gear to either the starting Flathead certainly doesn’t lack for spectacular scenery, or end point, depending on where you’ve left your car. but the valley’s greatest draw is its unbridled wildness. There are myriad other possible tours in the valley and Called the “Serengeti of North America” by biologists every side-valley route holds high adventure potential, for its unrivaled wildlife populations, it’s the last major whether on foot or mountain bike. Ultralight mountain valley in British Columbia to be completely undeveloped. bikers should note the old tracks over the rugged passes Fortunately for backcountry bikepackers, the valley of the Clark Range that offer multi-day-loop potential TOURS is not without its travel corridors — lightly used dirt into the Castle River valley. The Flathead also makes for NOrtH AMERIca IS CHOCK roads and old exploratory tracks run the length of the a great loop off the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route, valley bottom and across the mountains on which parallels the MacDonald Range to the west. fuLL OF GREat TOurs. both sides. Possibly the valley’s premier ride Wherever you go, there are no services of any kind HERE arE TEN OF THE BEst. starts south of Fernie near Morissey, follows anywhere in the valley. You’re completely on your own. Edited by Aaron Teasdale LE A SD A RON TE A A Wilderness starts here. Preparing for another big day in British Columbia’s Flathead Valley. Late June through September is the coalition of Delmarva conservationists, has best time to visit. Camping spots and water created a cycling map with 2,500 miles of sources are abundant. The most convenient routes that connect more than 70 wildlife airport is Glacier International in Kalispell, sanctuaries. The Great Delmarva Bicycling Montana, though airports in Missoula and Trail Map identifies the safest country Calgary are also options. roads and pinpoints birding habitats and There are serious proposals to expand pastoral harbors where you can try kayak- Waterton Park into the valley, but equally ing or crabbing. serious are current proposals for coalbed The ideal time to visit is the Indian methane sites and mountaintop removal Summer of September and October, when coal mines. In other words, ride the wild beach-bound tourists are off the roads and Flathead while you can. the weather is consistently sunny and mild. Resources: Kootenay Taxi, based in Being the off-season, most towns on the Fernie, is the best option for arranging shut- “Eastern Shore” (as Delmarva is also known), tles: www.kootenaytaxi.com. The Flathead have reduced prices but shops and restau- Wild site has lots of information on the val- rants remain open. This is also the ideal time ley: www.flathead.ca. Backcountry Biking for relishing the bounties of the Chesapeake in the Canadian Rockies by Doug Eastcott Bay and the harvest of local farms. Blue describes some of the Clark Range passes. crabs, rockfish, tomatoes, and sweet white HY AP Bike, BOB trailers, and car-rack rentals at corn are some of the region’s delicacies. OGR T Glacier Cyclery: (406) 862-6446, www.gla A few highlights: Blackwater National PHO ciercyclery.com. Wildlife Refuge near Cambridge, Maryland T ENNIS COELLO -Aaron Teasdale with its year-round population of bald D . BOISVER Adobe universe. Touring in New Mexico. eagles; Assateague and Chincoteague to O UL A The Delmarva Peninsula see wild ponies frolic in the surf; and P In the heart of the bustling East Coast there Delaware, Maryland, and Virginia) is filled Cape Henlopen, Delaware, with its soaring is a place where cyclists can find over 2,000 with superlative cycling on low-traffic roads sand dunes. For a true Chesapeake experi- No causeway for alarm. Riding the 363-mile Lake Champlain Bikeway is one of the finest tours in the Northeast. miles of rural roads through a picturesque through tidal marshes and coastal forests. ence visit the historic, vibrant town of landscape of small towns, farms, inlets, Riding alongside an abundance of birds and St. Michael’s. Located in Talbot County, Resources: For a map of Delmarva bike takes in everything from the big city of 7,000 feet, with stretches over 9,000. coves, and beaches. Flanked on the west wildlife, cyclotourists can camp in natural Maryland, it offers cycling routes to Oxford trails and a list of lodging options and events, Albuquerque to the “city different” of Therefore, ideal travel time is between May by the Chesapeake Bay and on the east by areas or B&B hop from town to town. and Tilghman Island where you can tour see the Delmarva Low Impact Tourism Santa Fe, the mountain town of Taos, rural and October — but check local conditions the Atlantic Ocean, the Delmarva Peninsula Delmarva Low Impact Tourism nineteenth century villages still occupied Experience site at www.delmarvalite.org crossroads of Tierra Amarilla, hidden atom- to avoid late-season snow. Take altitude (named for its geographic confluence of Experience (www.delmarvalite.org), a by watermen and oyster fishers. or call (443) 944-8097. Check out www. ic city of Los Alamos, and the villages into account when calculating travel pace EasternShoreVisitor.com or www.delmarweb. in between that truly define the region. and prepare for lots of climbing. Bring com for campground locations and amenities. Riders should consult area maps and local plenty of layers and, although it’s typically Carolina Tailwinds, www.carolinatailwinds. shops for specifics but, generally, follow dry, expect quick, dramatic weather shifts. com, and Inn Tours, www.inntours.com, offer NM 14 from Albuquerque to Santa Fe; the Overnight options dotting the route guided tours in the region. High Road to Taos; Route 64 west to Tierra include camping in state parks, cheap -Renee Sklarew Amarilla; Route 84 south to 502 through motels, and quaint B&Bs. Musts for the Los Alamos; Route 4 past Jemez Springs; trip include: Santa Fe’s plaza; the Santuario Northern New Mexico and 550 to NW Loop, Unser Boulevard, (healing church) in Chimayo; exchanging No place blends the Old and New Worlds to Northern Boulevard through Corralles, bike yarns at Taos Cyclery; green chili stew in quite the way that northern New Mexico to the Bosque bike path, and back to at Eske’s Brewpub; Tierra Wools in Tierra does. This expansive state hosts a scant Albuquerque. Amarilla; roadside hot springs in Jemez; population of two million, predominantly Expect a blend of fantastic foods and and Georgia O’Keefe’s Abiqui landscape. congregated around Albuquerque. That smells (with the green chili in all of its Resources: For equipment, The Bike leaves plenty of room to take flight via forms topping the list), life-altering vis- Coop, Albuquerque: (505) 265-5170, www. pedal along spectacular, sparsely trafficked tas and clear night skies, opulence and bikecoop.com. For information and supplies alpine desert routes that blend European- high-art juxtaposed with dusty ramshackle Taos Cyclery: (575) 758-5551, www.taoscy style villages with native, Hispanic, and towns, and a destination worthy of its clery.com. New Mexico Touring Society P R distinctly New Mexican cultures. reputation for enchantment. (www.nmts.org) for a plethora of route HA VID A challenging 415-mile loop, with Sitting at an elevation of 5,000 feet, maps. DA saddle time ranging from five to eight Albuquerque represents the journey’s low -Josh Liberles Stay with the flock. Birds and cyclists alike take flight on the wildlife-rich Delmarva Peninsula. days depending on load and desired pace, point. Most of the terrain hovers around 12 adventure cyclist january 2009 adventurecycling.org adventure cyclist january 2009 adventurecycling.org 13 miles, the Cassiar, or Route 37 North, as it’s officially titled, is a grand-scale wilderness trail lined with lofty peaks, crystal clear lakes, and soothing forests. From Kitwanga and the Yellowhead Highway, the 90-percent-paved Cassiar heads north to the Yukon border and its junction with the Alaska Highway. Along the way it swings relentlessly from one watershed to another as it crosses over the upper reaches of some of Western Canada’s mightiest rivers and bisects the traditional territories of the Gitxsan, Tahltan, Kaska, and Nisga’a first nations. KNEY A Camping (and a few rental cabins) are available at regular intervals along the REGG BLE G Cassiar. There are well-stocked food stores in Iskut, Dease Lake, and Good Hope Lake, but loading up in either Terrace or Watson Getting seriously high. Roadside respites are required in Colorado’s thin-aired high country. Lake is not a bad idea. Snacks and very basic supplies are available at Meziadin red-blood-cell-thickening Olympians, and your cardiovascular system and wow your Lake Provincial park, Bell II resort, Tattoga John Denver sing such high tunes about eyeballs out of their sockets. Lake, and Jade City. the state of Colorado — altitude. Colorado This rider’s favorite route covers 350 Like any great wilderness ride, the is loaded with over 50 peaks 14,000 feet miles, over five passes 10,000 feet or higher, Cassiar is difficult to reach, with the closest or higher, and it’s the only state located from the ski town of Frisco to the mountain airport in Prince George, British Columbia.