National Heritage Listing
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One Place,National Many Stories: Heritage West Kimberley Listing 1 This publication draws on the Australian Heritage Council final assessment of national heritage values of the west Kimberley. For more information on the National Heritage List and to view the Australian Heritage Council final assessment, visit www.heritage.gov.au One Place,National Many Stories: Heritage West Kimberley Listing Front cover: Boab tree at sunset, located on El Questro Station Photo credit: Tourism Western Australia ©Commonwealth of Australia 2011 ISBN 978-1-921733-30-7 This work is protected by copyright law. Apart from any use permitted by the Copyright Act 1968 (including research or study) no part may be reproduced by any process, reused or redistributed for any commercial purpose or distributed to a third party for such purpose, without prior written permission from the Department of Sustainability, Environment, Water, Population and Communities. Design: www.WhiteFox.com.au 1 The west Kimberley is one place with many stories. Renowned for its dramatic landscapes and rich Indigenous culture, the region weaves together a remarkable account of the evolution of the Australian continent with Aboriginal history dating back more than 40,000 years. These stories are part of an iconic living landscape that features sheer escarpments, pristine rivers cutting through sandstone plateaux and ancient coral reefs, creating spectacular waterfalls and deep gorges. Its remoteness has created a haven of biodiversity that supports plant and animal species found nowhere else on the Australian continent. This biodiversity has been sustained by thousands of years of Indigenous land management practices such as looking after country through fire burning and cultural maintenance activities. The west Kimberley also tells the story of European exploration and settlement, from William Dampier’s landing at Karrakatta Bay to the development of rich and vibrant pastoral and pearling industries that continue today. The National Heritage List recognises and celebrates places of outstanding heritage value to our Australian nation. The west Kimberley is like no other place in Australia – like no other place on earth. Its extraordinary Indigenous, historic, aesthetic, and natural heritage values make it worthy of inclusion on the National Heritage List – Australia’s highest form of heritage recognition. The west Kimberley National Heritage area encompasses the iconic Kimberley coast from La Grange south of Broome, north to the Dampier Peninsula east to Cambridge Gulf, the Kimberley plateau and country south to the Oscar and Napier Ranges and the mighty Fitzroy River. This book provides a snapshot of some of the outstanding heritage values that make the west Kimberley such an imagine a list of the places which integral part of Australia’s history and identity. define Australia. The west Kimberley simply belongs there The Hon Tony Burke Tony Burke, Environment Minister Minister for Sustainability, Environment, Water, Population and Communities 3 What makes the west Kimberley special? The west Kimberley is one of Australia’s The west Kimberley is one of Australia’s special places. It is a vast area of dramatic landscapes of great special places. biological richness, relatively undisturbed since European settlement, with important geological and fossil evidence of Australia’s evolutionary history. The region is home to a rich living Aboriginal culture and a proud pastoral and pearling tradition. Ancient geology Biological richness 1,800 million years ago the The rugged Kimberley plateau, Kimberley was a separate land western coastline and northern mass that collided with the rivers continue to provide a vital ancient Pilbara and Yilgarn, refuge for many native plants and forming the core of the future animals that are found nowhere Australian continent. The King else or which have disappeared Leopold Ranges are the remnants from much of the rest of Australia. of massive mountains thrown up In addition, Roebuck Bay is by the collision and their folded internationally recognised as and crumpled rocks tell one of Australia’s most significant an important story of the sites for migratory wading birds. shaping of Australia. The Oscar, Napier, Emmanuel and Pillara Ranges – now high and dry in the landscape – are the remains of a vast coral reef, similar in scale to the Great Barrier Reef, that existed nearly 400 million years ago. The Gogo fish fossils from this ancient reef system provide a rare insight into the evolution of life on Earth, including the earliest four-limbed vertebrates. 5 5 A rich and dynamic living Aboriginal culture Aboriginal people have lived in the In the Wanjina–Wunggurr west Kimberley for at least 40,000 homeland, Wanjina and Wungurr years and today it continues to creator beings, manifested in rock be home to Aboriginal groups art figures, stone arrangements practising traditional law in the and landscape features, are central world’s oldest continuous culture. to the laws and customs of the Wanjina–Wunggurr people and From the Dampier Peninsula east guide every aspect of their lives. along the north Kimberley coast, Aboriginal people used the unique The history of Aboriginal people double log raft, galwa or kalum, in the Kimberley has been one National Heritage Listing captures and their remarkable knowledge of resistance, adaptation and of tidal movement to travel to survival in the face of dramatic the stories of our culture, our people offshore islands and otherwise change. In the 1890’s, Aboriginal inaccessible coastal areas. resistance fighter, Jandamarra and our country from the past, and the Bunuba people’s intimate Painted images of creator beings, knowledge of the rugged Oscar and present and future. We are one ancestors, plants and animals in Napier Ranges was crucial in their rock shelters and caves represent struggle to resist European pastoral mob connected through the cultural a stunning visual record of an settlement. ongoing Aboriginal painting tradition that is considered one The dispute at Noonkanbah landscape of the Kimberley of the longest and most complex Station in 1980 between Aboriginal ‘rock art’ sequences anywhere in people, a resource company Janet Oobagooma, Kimberley Land the world. and the western Australian Council Cultural Adviser Government over oil drilling in a The beautifully executed Gwion- sacred area was a pivotal event in Gwion/Girrogorro rock paintings the struggle by Traditional Owners of the Wanjina–Wunggurr and for their right to determine what Balangarra homelands provide happens on their country. The an extraordinary insight into the history of resistance, survival material culture of Aboriginal and adaptation has lead to the society over thousands of years. strong voice and living culture of Kimberley Aboriginal people today. Right: Wanjina Wunggurr Dambimangari elders, Janet Oobagooma and Alfie Barunga celebrate the Federal Court Determination of Native Title at Yaloon on 26 May 2011. 7 Photo: Kimberley Land Council. 7 Early European exploration The Kimberley coast was the scene of some of the earliest European exploration of the Great South Land. Privateer William Dampier’s published accounts of his 1688 visit to the Kimberley were highly influential in the creation of European attitudes towards Australia and its people and stimulated later explorers such as James Cook. A carved boab at Careening Bay provides rare, physical evidence of the explorations of the eminent 19th century Australian hydrographer, Phillip Parker King. A rich pastoral history The west Kimberley has a proud pastoral tradition, involving both Aboriginal and non-Aboriginal people. Fossil Downs Station was established in 1886 by the MacDonald and MacKenzie families after a three year journey of more than 5,600 kms droving cattle from Goulburn, NSW – the longest overland cattle drive in Australia’s history. Pearling The west Kimberley has a special place in the minds of Australians for the region’s colourful pearling history. 9 9 The following pages outline the nine criteria used to assess the National Heritage Listing of the heritage West Kimberley recognises that of the country is alive and strong, and values so are the laws and cultures west Kimberley and that Traditional Owners have why it now has a followed in this country for thousands of years. place on the National Heritage List. Frank Davey, Kimberley Land Council Co-Chair 11 11 The place has outstanding heritage value to the nation because of the place’s importance in the course, or pattern of Australia’s natural and cultural history. The outstanding landscapes and rock formations of the west Kimberley provide an incredible insight into the evolution of the Australian continent, including the Devonian Reef which provides a continuous record of 20 million years of reef deposition. The west Kimberley also holds biological significance, rich with plant, animal, reptile and frog species. Many of the rivers that run through the west Kimberley, like the Drysdale, Prince Regent and Mitchell rivers, are home to a large number of freshwater fish and turtles, that are found only in this part of Australia. A biological refuge The region is important as a biological refuge for plants and animals that have survived changing conditions such as climate, invasive species and human beings. The west Kimberley is regarded as a natural laboratory for the study of ecological and evolutionary processes. 13 13 William Dampier The west Kimberley coast is recognised Rock shelters for its association with