WHERE to in NOVA SCOTIA
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WHERE TO CYCLE in NOVA SCOTIA ADAM BARNETT Copyright © 2019, Bicycle Nova Scotia All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means without the prior written permission from the publisher, or, in the case of photocopying or other reprographic copying, permission from Access Copyright, 1 Yonge Street, Suite 1900, Toronto, Ontario M5E 1E5. Nimbus Publishing Limited 3660 Strawberry Hill Street, Halifax, NS, B3K 5A9 (902) 455-4286 nimbus.ca Printed and bound in Canada NB1420 Design: Jenn Embree Editor: Angela Mombourquette Proofreader: Paula Sarson Library and Archives Canada Cataloguing in Publication Title: Where to cycle in Nova Scotia : a guidebook for exploring the back roads and trails of Nova Scotia / Adam Barnett, of Bicycle Nova Scotia. Names: Barnett, Adam author. Description: Includes bibliographical references and index. Identifiers: Canadiana 20189068655 | ISBN 9781771087247 (softcover) Subjects: LCSH: Bicycle touring—Nova Scotia—Guidebooks. | LCSH: Bicycle trails— Nova Scotia—Guidebooks. | LCSH: Rural roads—Nova Scotia—Guidebooks. | LCSH: Nova Scotia—Guidebooks. | LCGFT: Guidebooks. Classification: LCC GV1046.C32 N69 2019 | DDC 796.609716—dc23 Nimbus Publishing acknowledges the financial support for its publishing activities from the Government of Canada, the Canada Council for the Arts, and from the Province of Nova Scotia. We are pleased to work in partnership with the Province of Nova Scotia to develop and promote our creative industries for the benefit of all Nova Scotians. CONTENTS Foreword 1 Preparing to Ride 19 Cycling Through the Seasons 19 Join Bicycle Nova Scotia 3 Packing Considerations 20 Bicycle Nova Scotia’s Projects and Initiatives 3 Planning a Day Ride 22 Planning a Bike Trip with a Child 24 Preface 4 Routes for Kids 25 Disclaimer 5 Planning an Overnight/Self-Supported Trip 26 Acknowledgments 6 Introduction to Routes 29 How to Use This Guide 29 Introduction 7 Understanding Route Notes 31 Definitions 33 Route Highlights 8 Using Printed Maps 34 Downloading Maps and Routes 34 Touring Nova Scotia 9 Mountain Biking 35 Culture 9 Helpful Links 35 Seasonal Businesses 9 Long-Distance Rides: Tip-to-Tip 36 Accommodations 10 Cellular Reception 10 Cycling Routes of Halifax Metro 38 Food and Drink 10 Halifax Metro Regional Overview 38 Potable Water Access 11 !Halifax Peninsula 40 Lakes and Beaches 11 "Shearwater Flyer and Salt Marsh Trail 43 Wildlife 12 #Cow Bay 45 Hunting Season 13 $Sambro Loop and City Swim Spots 46 Insects 13 Cycling Routes of the South Shore 48 Road Safety 14 South Shore Regional Overview 48 Wayfinding and Signage 14 %Peggys Cove 51 Potholes and Road Conditions 14 &Rum Runners Trail (RT) 52 Rules of the Road 14 /Aspotogan Peninsula 56 One Metre Rule 15 *Seaside and Rail Trail (RT) 57 Safety Tips 16 )Second Peninsula 59 Etiquette 16 BLBlue Rocks (RT) 60 In Case of a Vehicle Collision 17 BMHirtles Beach 62 BNMahone Bay–Bridgewater–Lunenburg (RT) 64 BOBridgewater–Petite Rivière–LaHave 66 BPRissers–Liverpool 68 EOStarrs Point Loop 111 BQLiverpool–Carters Beach 69 EPVariation: Starrs Point Loop Extension 113 BRWestern Head 70 EQWolfville Wine Tour (RT) 114 BSMolega Lake 71 ERWolfville Area: Winery, Brewery, BTCaledonia–Westfield 72 and Distillery Tour (RT) 116 BUBrookfield Mines Trail (RT) 73 ESGaspereau Valley 118 CLJordan Bay 74 ETBishopville–Sunken Lake 120 CMCrow Neck (RT) 75 CNCape Sable Island 76 Cycling Routes of the Bay of Fundy: Minas Basin 122 Cycling Routes of Yarmouth Bay of Fundy: Minas Basin Regional Overview 122 and Acadian Shores 78 EUWindsor: Winery and Brewery Tour 124 Yarmouth and Acadian Shores FLAvondale Peninsula 125 Regional Overview 78 FMVariation: Windsor–Avondale Peninsula 126 COPinkneys Point–Morris Island 80 FNKempt Shore 127 CPCape Forchu 81 FONoel Shore 128 CQPort Maitland 82 FPShubenacadie 130 CRMavillette Beach 84 FQCobequid Trail (RT) 131 CSChurch Point–Meteghan 85 FRBlue Route: East Mountain–Pictou (RT) 132 CTWeymouth–New Tusket 86 FSCobequid Mountains 133 FTFive Islands–Parrsboro 135 Cycling Routes of Bay of Fundy: FUParrsboro–River Hebert 136 Annapolis Valley 87 GLParrsboro–Cape Chignecto 137 Bay of Fundy: Annapolis Valley Regional Overview 87 Cycling Routes of the Northumberland Shore 139 CUDigby Neck 90 Northumberland Shore Regional Overview 139 DLDigby Lighthouse 92 GMAmherst Shore 141 DMKejimkujik: Fire Tower Trail 92 GNPugwash–Oxford 142 DNKejimkujik: Jakes Landing–New Grafton 93 GOFox Harbour Loop 143 DOBear River 94 GPTatamagouche–Malagash 144 DPAnnapolis Royal–Milford 95 GQTatamagouche–Wentworth Valley 145 DQAnnapolis Royal: Fort-to-Fort 97 GRHippie Dippie 146 DRAnnapolis Royal–Bridgetown Loop 98 GSCape John 148 DSAnnapolis Royal: North Mountain 99 GTCaribou Island 149 DTBridgetown: North Mountain 101 GUGully Lake Preserve 150 DUMiddleton: North Mountain 102 HLMelmerby Beach 152 ELHarvest Moon Trailway (RT) 104 HMMuseum of Industry (RT) 153 EMBerwick–Harbourville 108 HNAntigonish: Cape George 154 ENCanning–Scots Bay 109 HOBarneys River–Arisaig 155 HPBeaver Mountain–Addington Forks 156 Cape Breton Island: Regional Overview 157 Cycling Routes of the Eastern Shore 199 Eastern Shore Regional Overview 199 Cycling Routes of Cape Breton Island: JUGuysborough: Tickle Loop 202 The Cabot Trail 160 100 Interval Loop 204 The Cabot Trail Regional Overview 160 101 Sherbrooke Loop 205 HQThe Cabot Trail 164 102 Sober Island 206 HRBig Baddeck Loop 169 103 Clam Harbour 207 HSBig Spruce–Hunters Mountain 170 104 Ostrea Lake 209 HTMargaree Valley 170 105 Musquodoboit Harbour (RT) 210 HUAcadian Loop 171 106 Three Fathom Harbour 211 ILMeat Cove 172 IMWhite Point 174 Bike-Friendly Businesses 213 INSt. Anns–North River 175 Program Goals and Services 213 Benefits of Certification 213 Cycling Routes of Cape Breton Island: Starting an Application 213 Beyond the Cabot Trail 177 Beyond the Cabot Trail Regional Overview 177 Women on Wheels (WoW) 214 IOCeltic Shores Coastal Trail (RT) 178 IPLake Ainslie: Mabou–Nevada Valley (RT) 182 Appendix A: Bike Shops 214 IQInverness–Margaree Beach Tour (RT) 183 IRWashabuck Peninsula 185 Appendix B: Bike Tours and Rentals 215 ISBoularderie Island 186 ITAlder Point 188 Map Legend 217 IUNew Victoria 189 JLNorthern Coastal Industrial Loop 190 Route Maps 218 JMVariation: Donkin Loop 192 JNHillside Loop 192 Route Overview Table 256 JOVariation: Marion Bridge–Grand Mira 193 JPAlbert Bridge–Marion Bridge 193 JQFortress of Louisbourg 194 JRPoint Michaud 195 JSSt. Peters: Cape George 196 JTIsle Madame 197 Many of the highlighted routes in this book will take cyclists along the spectacular Bay of Fundy, famous for having the world’s highest tides. (KIMBERLY SMITH) Cycling in Nova Scotia often comes with the reward of a gorgeous ocean view. (DOUG BROWN) FOREWORD Nova Scotia is full of low-traffic roads and recently improved rail trails that are a joy to explore by bicycle, and our small coastal and rural towns never fail to surprise with hidden gems. This book is meant to highlight some of the best cycling routes around the province, taking you from shore to shore to shore on interesting and challenging rides. The world-renowned Cabot Trail, not for the faint of heart, over-delivers every time; the calming landscape of the Annapolis Valley features farms and wineries; the coastal loops on the Eastern Shore boast some of our best beaches; the route along the South Shore showcases many vibrant and beautiful communities; the Acadian Shore offers a rich cultural landscape; and the Northumberland Strait provides roads that wind through vibrant fishing communities and lead to the warmest ocean swimming in the province. Over the past decade, the popularity of cycling in Nova Scotia has increased significantly, as proven by the fact that the Gran Fondos reach capacity every year. More and more charity rides continue to pop up, and we see a continued increase in people booking trips to explore our province by bicycle. Slowly, many of our municipal and provincial roads are being improved through the addition of cycling lanes, paved shoulders, and signage. We know that we have a lot of work still to do, and we encourage you to let your local elected officials know that cycling infrastructure is important for our environment, our economy, and our health. Bike shops can now be found all over the province—another sign of the strength of the growing cycling community. (If you can’t find a shop nearby, just ask at a Visitor Information Centre or a local hardware store to see if there is anyone nearby who can facilitate a quick repair.) To help meet the needs of cyclists travelling in the province, Bicycle Nova Scotia has been working together with local businesses to develop a “Bicycle Friendly Business” network that encourages businesses to provide the small extras that show recognition that cyclists are important custom- ers and clients. We encourage you to seek out these businesses on your travels. Bicycle Nova Scotia has also been working hard to establish the Blue Route, which, once completed, will include approximately 3,000 km of cycling routes across the province. This is a long process, but already its effects are being seen as more municipalities and towns get on board with the concept—recognizing its value for visitors and for citizens who are increasingly demanding more in the way of active transportation. As the number of cyclists increases on our roads, so does the potential for conflicts with drivers of motor vehicles. Nova Scotia has a one-metre rule, which makes it the law that motorists must leave a minimum of one metre of space between themselves and a cyclist when passing. While this is certainly a step in Where to Cycle in Nova Scotia 1 the right direction, it is important that cyclists use lights and bells to be seen and heard. The routes detailed in this book have been carefully selected for maximum safety; however, given the inherent vulnerability of cyclists, we urge readers and users to know about, and abide by, the rules of the road.