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Utilization of Temple Waste Flower -Tagetus Erecta for Dyeing of Cotton, Wool and Silk on Industrial Scale

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Utilization of Temple Waste Flower -Tagetus Erecta for Dyeing of Cotton, Wool and Silk on Industrial Scale Volume 6, Issue 1, Spring2009 Utilization of Temple waste flower -Tagetus erecta for Dyeing of Cotton, Wool and Silk on Industrial scale Padma S. Vankar*a, Rakhi Shanker a, Samudrika Wijayapalab, aFacility for Ecological and Analytical Testing Indian Institute of Technology, Kanpur-208 016, India bDepartment of Textile and Clothing Technology, University of Moratuwa, Moratuwa, Sri Lanka ABSTRACT Huge amounts of Tagetus erecta (marigold) flowers are offered in temples in India, creating a very large waste. These waste flowers were collected and used for industrial dyeing. Tagetus belongs to the family Asteraceae. It produces natural dye from its flowers (petals) consisting mainly of carotenoid-lutein and flavonoid- patuletin, these colorants have been isolated and identified. The crude extract has been used for dyeing textiles. In the present study innovative dyeing with Tagetus has been shown to give good dyeing results. Pretreatment with 1-2 % metal mordant and 5 % of plant extract (owf) was found to be satisfactory and showed very good fastness properties to dyed fabrics of cotton, wool and silk. Innovative solvent extraction of dry flowers of Tagetus erecta with ethanol was found to have high extraction efficiency allowing selective extraction of flavonoids and carotenoids. This is an easy extraction process, where ethanol solvent was removed and recovered. Crude extract was diluted with deionsed water and used for dyeing. CIELab and K/S of the dyed fabrics were also evaluated. The superiority of solvent extraction over conventional extraction has been established through this study. Keywords: Tagetes erecta, Ethanolic extraction, Cotton, Wool, Silk, Natural dyeing, Industrial scale 1. Introduction to color egg yolks orange and poultry skinyellow [2]. Five cultivars were Tagetus erecta (Marigold) belongs to examined by Bosma et al. for lutein the family Asteraceae. It is a small shrub production on commercial scale. ‘E-1236’ (a and bears yellowish orange flowers in variety of Tagetes) was found to produce the abundance during the flowering season largest quantity of lutein, 22.0 kg ha-1, and which lasts for more than 6-8 months. It ‘Orange Lady’ (another hybrid variety) occurs in humid climate in different parts of produced 21.3 kg ha-1. India and even in Sri Lanka. Tagetus pigments mainly consists of carotenoids and The flowers are offered to the deities flavonoids, these have been used mainly as in temples and are thus available in huge natural food colorants and feed [1]. Tagetes quantities as temple waste. The total waste erecta L. flower pigments have been generated in Kanpur city alone has been extracted and used as a natural food additive estimated to be 20 tonnes per day. Most of Article Designation: Refereed 1JTATM Volume 6, Issue 1, Spring2009 these flowers are either dumped by the side laboratory experiment [3] showed that use of of river Ganga or allowed to naturally decay metal salts (mordants) can produce different and used as compost. We have made use of colors on fabrics dyed with its flower this waste material and utilized its colorant extract. This seems to demonstrate the for dyeing purpose. Figure-1 shows the potentiality of colorant for fabric dyeing. As picture of the Tagetus flower. the flower has good pigment content we chose Tagetus erecta flowers for the study of Aqueous extract from Tagetus has natural dyeing. shades of light yellowish green hue color. A removed under reduced pressure on a rotatory evaporator, aqueous extract was prepared and used for natural dyeing of the three natural materials. Although some attempts on natural dyeing with tagetus has been made by natural dyers. Jute dyeing has been attempted by Pan et al. [4,5] and another group the dye for silk dyeing [6]. Excellent colors were produced on sheepskin leather Figure-1 Tagetus flower [7] with this dye when it was used in conjunction with three natural tannins and Traditional Knowledge of its use: three mordants. Agarwal et al. [8] studied Ethanolic extract of the yellow to orangish fabric printing and its effect with seven red flowers of Tagetus, have been known as mordants through simultaneous mordanting rich source of lutein. This pigment has on cotton fabric. acquired greater significance because of its antioxidant property and for its use in eye 1.1. Chemical structure of the yellow health protection. Although Tagetus flower colorant: Lutein was isolated according extract has been mainly used in veterinary to the method developed by Li [9]. Dry feeds and as a natural food colorant. The flowers were ground to 10-40 mesh size chemical processing and stability of the and dissolved in 8 % ethanolic solution pigment and its applications in these areas of KOH and washed with the same has been well established, but it has not been solution 4-6 times at 65-70 ºC under explored for fabric dyeing on commercial stirring. Addition of water followed by scale because of some drawbacks. The neutralization and filtration yielded an aqueous extract of the flower does not extract, this extract was further produce attractive hue color. Color extracted with ethyl acetate 6-10 times, fastnesses of these dyed fabrics do not fit finally crude lutein was obtained after into the acceptable norms of natural dyeing. distillation of ethyl acetate and recrystalization from THF and Since proper extraction of the deionized water yielded the final colorant seemed to be the major drawback, product of lutein crystal with a purity we planned our study with Tagetus by >90%. The isolated molecule was developing an efficient extraction process identified by NMR, Mass spectra and using ethanol. The innovative extraction the structure was as shown in figure-2 method gave better dye yield and deeper hue a. color to the extract. The ethanol was 1.2. Article Designation: Refereed 2JTATM Volume 6, Issue 1, Spring2009 OH HO 2. 2a -Lutein HO O OH OH MeO OH OH O 2b - Patuletin Figures 2- Structures of Main colorants: 2a) Lutein 2b) Patuletin 1.2. Flavonoids in Tagetus: Literature solution containing 5 g/l of sodium procedure of extraction of flavonoids from carbonate and 3 g/l of non-ionic detergent Tagetes patula L. by Guinot et al.[10] (Labolene) under the boiling condition for showed preferential isolation of Patultrin 4 h, after this it was thoroughly rinsed and and patuletin as main flavonoids and air dried at room temperature. investigated for their dyeing potential on The munga silk of GSM-45 fabric wool using only alum mordant.. The was scoured with solution containing 0.5 investigators had used a tedious method of g/L sodium carbonate and 2 g/L non-ionic macerating the flowers and had used detergent (Labolene) solution at 40-45° C solvents ethanol: water in varied for 30 min, keeping the material to liquor composition 2:8, 3:7 and 5:5 v/v for ratio at 1:50. The scoured material was extraction. thoroughly washed with tap water and dried at room temperature. The scoured material However we carried out column was soaked in clean water for 30 min prior chromatography of crude extract on silica to dyeing or mordanting. gel using the elution systems 20% The pure new wool( J sagar) 60 gm EtOAc/hexane- 50% EtOAc/hexane and was scoured with solution containing 2 g/L further on with 40% EtOAc from Tagetus non-ionic detergent (Labolene) solution at erecta extract to isolate one major flavonoid 30-35° C for 30 min, keeping the material to - patuletin. It was identified by NMR and liquor ratio at 1:50. The scoured material Mass spectra and the structure was as shown was thoroughly washed with tap water and in figure-2 b. The spectral data were dried at room temperature. The scoured matched with literature data. material was soaked in clean water for 30 min prior to dyeing or mordanting. 2. Experimental 2.2. Methods 2.1. Materials Since huge amount of flowers were The cotton fabric of 105 g/m2 ( easily, cheaply and readily available we warp-30 , weft-20 ) was scoured with a planned our natural dyeing study with Article Designation: Refereed 3JTATM Volume 6, Issue 1, Spring2009 Tagetus by developing an efficient comparison purpose. UV-Visible spectrum extraction process for better dye yield. of the extract showed poor color content in Aqueous extract was used for dyeing this case. Dye yield from the aqueous extract although the initial extraction of the colorant has been shown in table-1. CIELab and K/S was done with ethanol from the dried of the dyed fabrics were evaluated for the flowers of Tagetus erecta as described in differently extracted dye solutions. However 2.2.1. The ethanol was removed and both in terms of dye content and hue color, it aqueous extract was prepared and used for was not satisfactory as shown in table-2 and dyeing. Pretreatment of the fabric was done figure-3. Thus this extract was not found with Tannic acid (only in the case of cotton). suitable for dyeing purpose. Cotton fabrics have been reported to be pretreated with tannic acid [11] that provide 2.2.2. Treatment of fabric before dyeing carboxylic acid (-COOH) groups to the After scouring of cotton fabric it was fabric for better dye adherence. The treated with 2 % (owf) solution of tannic premordants used were alum, ferrous acid in water. The fabric was dipped in sulphate, stannic chloride, stannous chloride, tannic acid solution for at least 4-5 hours. It copper sulphate and potassium dichromate. was squeezed and dried. Pre-mordanting All other chemicals used were laboratory was used for this study, fabric which was grade reagents. already treated with tannic acid was dipped, in mordant (2% for alum and 1% for 2.2.1.
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