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Generational Wealth
SEPTEMBER 2013 S$10.00 ⼸JOURNEYS
Ꮣ ᰭ 䶣 ㏔嗣ᰭ ຏ ࡻ ⮱ 䙿 Ꮔ ᅞ घ⮴იȡౕ ѼڒҀ 侹 ҂䅀 ຏ ࡻ嗣ᅞ ᓄڒ ⌞࢝࢝Ꮣ嗣㺮 Heaven & Earth ⮴იȡ⮱ࢄ࢝Ꮣϻ࢝Ꮣ䛹៶嗟-FFMB嗠䙿 Ꮔ䯳ఏᬄ̸嗀Ѻλⱌ嗟$IFOOBJ嗠হ⤚ߍ㒄ᅁ 嗟#BOHBMPSF嗠⮱͑უ⮴იᆂᐭȡࢄ࢝Ꮣ̺ᄾ̷≮ Ȩ䉘ℾܚߕ䘪㖇䯳ౕ䔆͑Ꮤ⮴იÿÿݺ㔲᭜≩ ჹ㓮ȩ̸͑Ꮤຒࢎ⮱ⱌ҉ᰟუ"3៶ᰩͫ ∂ ߋ⻮ϧ≫ᄦহⰈს⮱仃䔶嗲ऻ㔲᭜ప䭲ऺ≮ݺ పᕨ㐌㥕命হ๘ϧጰ冮ᅩȠ㒻࢝Ꮣᓰ▢ᄩጵ 冮嗟5PNٸࣄ ጰ៶嗟%FFQBL $IPQSB嗠হ↑ $SVJTF嗠᠉䃬࢝Ꮣᬣ⮱Ѽัȡ䛹៶⮴ი҉ͧ̓⩹ ͢ ̭ι⮱䶣㏔䙿Ꮔ嗣᭜ప䭲1SFGFSSFE䙿Ꮔ䯳ఏ ⮱ⴠȡ̷ۍ࢝Ꮣࢄ䘕ᰶᒵ็ჹͪയ⮴⮱⮴ი喑Όᰶ̺ᄾ̭䉘ຯ≄⮱䉘ℾ⿌ȡ ⮴ ౕᗙ₷⮱ጛ䌊̸喑ҍजВ⌞❞Ⴐ喑ΌजВᣖ䲏㔹䔰ȡѳ࢝ᏓϺ᭜ ᱗ᰫҀ侹࢝Ꮣፊ⮴⅁≫⮱䙿Ꮔ嗣䔅ⱌ̺ⴒ҂ ࣇ⮱᪴ࡃহࢳट⼜⋭喑㏵䃖ϧ≮䔋ȡ 䅀ຏࡻȡ࢝Ꮣϧ℁Ш҂ϧ䘪ᛯᓄຏࡻ嗣ЃЙ⮱ჹ⌞ڣ࢝Ꮣ喑҉ͧ᪴ᬻऑప喑 倀⮱㏜ₐহⱌᙌ嗣̺ч䃖ڒ⌞യ⮴ᰶͪ LIM FONG WEI THE LEELA PALACE HOTELS AND GETTY IMAGES TEXT ᳄ь PHOTO ϧ㻶ᓄ⊛㮇մȡ䔆Ό䯫ᕗ嗣ЃЙ⮱㵭⋟䛹≮Ɑ ⿸⠙㏗⮱⢸嗣䉢⅁䯫㜗ᐰȡⰡݝᎡ̓͗܍ ⢸হፊڙ⢸ᬣ嗣࢝ᏓϺᰶ็͗䄥ౌ䗓嗣⩞̓А ᢛノ䓃ȡ࢝Ꮣ᭫䊘⢸ज䔪⏜ݝ̓㏗嗣䏘Ҁޟ ٬٭Ɑ͚χ∏হ㧆ऑ㵭㐌ȡशᕊↄऻ㸁㧆≯ ⢸ፊపڣӢ⪒࢝Ꮣ嗣ͧ࢝Ꮣ๔ै嗟.BIBSBKB嗠嗣 Ⰸ㜠Ꭱ䓾̶͗̓㏗ȡ䔆ψ⢸ڡϻᎡ ⮱Ხᅪຏࡻ㜠ϷϺຯ偯㥓ᬔᷓ嗣ౕ䶣㏔䙿Ꮔ䛹䷻ ȡ⣝ںࡻ 䛹៶⮴ი䙿ᏄᎣ䲋⩞ᬔ⮴იᩦ䕍㔹嗣㔹᭜ 䖢⚔࢝Ꮣऱౝ⮴ი⮱ᐧまহ㷲⒏➦㞟㔹ᐧȡ䛹៶ ⱌ⮴ი嗟-FFMB1BMBDF$IFOOBJ嗠ᐧౕ䄒ౝ⢸ 䉢⮱⻮ϧౌౝ̷嗣ϻ㟞చ㘪䖒᱈䉢⮱⻮უڙ ൎȡ 㠒ҍ᭜͗ૉ❞㜡㷲⒏⮱ϧ嗣䗐ҍΌч 㜡ጟ̺䋠ڣᵤౕչ๔⮱䙿Ꮔ䛹≮䔋ᔅ䔁ȡ̭ ВᒏღЃЙ⮱㷲⒏嗣ₐ⮱᭜嗱̭͗㏳㞯䘪᭜ ᰭ倅㞧ᱜহጒ㞧⮱ᆂ⣝ȡ䛹៶ⱌ⮴იϻⱌܴ 㦯㏠ᓤ嗟$IFUUJOBE嗠䆗䗥ᐧま᪴ࡃ॥ःࡻ嗣ᆂ ⣝࢝Ꮣܴ㦯χᅁ嗟$IFUUJBS嗣Ό⼝ᴡχ嗠⮱ 䉢䷻㠰ȡܴ㦯χᅁᆋλ࢝Ꮣ̓㷚ఈ͗䭣㏔͚ ⮱ੳ䉤㠞䭣㏔嗣ౕ࢝Ꮣ᠒ᰶሴ倅⮱ౝѺ嗣᭜ͨ ოহᒞ৺ࢄ࢝Ꮣ͝ჹэ㐌᪴ࡃ⮱▢偯㓑ȡЃЙ ⩺ᬖᎡ侞㝦ᥧፓ࢝Ꮣ͝ჹ➖ϔݝ⊤ใϑᭀ嗣ិ̓ ऱౝ⮱䆗ࡻຏҵ৮ፓఋუ嗣ͧₑЃЙ⮱䆗䗥ВᲮ ᅪຏࡻ㦄ऺȡܴ㦯χᅁ⮱უຯ⻮ϧ̴ప㞧嗣 䛹ҍ㘪ⰸݝᲒ㜗ᘼ๔ݖ⮱ጕ๔Ⅱᮣष▜Ƞ᪡ౕ 1 䲏ෆ⮱℁ݖᬣ䪉亝Ƞ㐲⩥⮱̷ぶᴇ᱕ȡܴ㦯χᅁ ใ⮱䊝⮳⩞ऱ㞟䪣㟞๔⤳ⴠ㷲亝嗣๔䬕ᵳڲᅸ ᭜㏳㜡䰂⮱㟞㏦嗣㒻䒛㒻ȡ (1) Built on 400 acres of land, the Bangalore Palace was used by the Mysore Maharaja as his family summer palace. Inspired by the Windsor castle, this palace, was completed in 1944 after 82 years, incorporated Tudor and Gothic 䔆ψٰ㉍䘪⋸⑀ᅪ㜡ౝҀ⣝ౕ䛹៶ⱌ⮴ ऐ⮱䱟๖䮏ၽ᭜̭䲏ጕ๔⮱Ⅱ嗣ڒelements beautifully rendered in the windows, foiled windows, courtyard and arches. Ꭱᐧ⮱⤚ߍ㒄ᅁ⮴ი ი䛹ȡ䙿Ꮔ ऐȠᏚ䮏হ䬕ぶх㒻ౝᆂ⣝䘪䧻হ⁹ᓤᐧ⿄ڣ᭜䓵㉏ᅁፊ⢸⮱႐㵹ი喑ᐧま▢ᙌः㜗㠞ప⍖㢻ൎ喑 ま䷻ᵩȡ ⚔ෆ䲏̷ጕ๔⮱Ą⩌পᴾą䰂ൾ嗣Ąᴾą̷䪣 (2) The courtyard of the Bangalore Palace is doused in vibrant and eye-catching coloured tiles. ⤚ߍ㒄ᅁ⮴იᏚ䮏 ቹ㨊ⴠ嗣๔യ䛹ళ≾ጕὪᒏ⮱ᴇ᱕ᴞӬ᭜ܴ㦯 ❵䛹ą䪉ٸใ⩞Ąڲ ㏠ᓤ䆗Ⴒ⮱➦㞟ȡსчࢲ 㞟ᒖ᪾ᫀ喑घ䃬侨䋠㻯䉼ȡ喍1IPUP᳄ь (3) A blue-turbaned guardian god perches gracefully on his staff. The gopurams, or monumental towers decorated 㷲亝嗣䔆᭜ࢄ࢝ᏓᗍͲ⮱э㐌㞧嗣䰭㺮ጒࡍϟ by sculptures of deities, at Kapaleeswara Temple, are a sight to behold. ࢎፂ䛹⨓៶Ꮖ᭜࢝Ꮣⱌጯ͚ᓰᰭ๔⮱ ࢝Ꮣ⎬ཱི⺋ᏆȡᏆႴ倅ㆠ⮱ф⺋倅ඁ䬕亝̷ᰶ̭Ѻ㑍Ɑ㨊ጫ喑⟣ѩႵ៑Ҭ㔲⮱⩤⺋䲍ౕ⺋Є̷喑ច ̭ᄼ❴̭ᄼ❴ౝ䪣ቹ̭᪡❴ෆ㝙๔ᄼ⮱❵ 倅ᠯ㠞ᅧ⮱Ⅱᮣष▜嗣䊝̷℘̺ڲᘠ喑⺋ᗲᴁহࣵᄷ䉢ȡ ఫȡࢲےڒⱭ㚛ൂ
92 ZbBz • ISSUE 48 ⩕嗣ਜ਼Ф㒻䛾嗣ڙ 䒜ౝᠯⱭऑ㦐ጰ⩨嗣䃖Ѽ䉡䓾䉢ⱌ䔦ȡ䙿Ꮔ ᠈❹ࢄ࢝Ꮣ丽亳+BNBWBS⮱⻮ϧ࠲࣏๖㟞Წ䛴⩕ Ν̭͗ऺ❹࠲࠲⮱Фᵩ ㏜䛾チহ䨣チ䰂㐅亝㟞嗣э㐌ጒࡍᓄ㟞䊲䓴 ᅲ♣㘪Νݝ䔆ࡻ㒻⮱㞧, ᭌᬣ䬡㔽ᓰౝ̭ᅯ̭ᅯ㐅̷嗣ݣ䕍⿸Ҁ⮱⊛ ᱜ৮嗣➖䊲թȡ̭ ⤚ 䰂᩵ȡ ̸ ̭ 〆 Გ ݝ ࢝Ꮣ᭜͗䉢䉞Ƞ䉘ჹहҀ⮱పᏓ嗣๖യহ ߍ㒄ᅁȡ䔆䛹⼝ͧ࢝Ꮣ 䬡Ƞ⮴იহ䉘ℾ⿌ᅞౕ䏘⪁ȡ䛹៶ⱌ⮴ი䲏ा ⮱䅤嗣⇎ϭ͵⍥ᮜ 䛹䪬⮱␕⊤⇆␖嗣ຄᝬ⿄ऐ䲏ाႮ ◦嗣ᰭჹⰈऺ⮱䓵㉏ᅁڙڲⱌጯ 䲆⮱ႌߍ៶⎫嗣㻳㏬ϻठ⼺⼨ݝጓ嗣䉘ℾ⍁᱾ ⮴ი嗟.ZTPSF1BMBDF嗠 Ⱪፅȡ♣㔹ౕ䔆⮴იใ嗣Ξ㈌㈌⮱ᅅ̓᭜࢝ ᭜∝༙䮢ऻ嗣࣯㻯ϧڒ Ꮣ͝ⰈᗍͲ⮱ࢳट᪴ࡃ嗣䗐᭜࢝Ꮣϧ⺋⮱䉏 ⁎すι็⮱࢝Ꮣ⮴ი嗣 ⮴ი嗶 ज ᘉ ϻ ⤚ ߍ 㒄 ᅁ 㺮 侞ܧჹȡݝⱌᆯ㘪䋠̺ ⱌࢎፂ䛹⨓៶Ꮖ᭜ⱌጯ͚ᓰᰭ๔⮱࢝Ꮣ 䒓 ᄼᬣ㘪២ 䓫ȡᝃ ⎬ཱི⺋嗟-PSE4IJWB嗠ᏆႴȡࢎፂ䛹⨓៶Ꮖ㜠Ϸ 䃥 ຯ ₑ 嗣䛹 ៶ ⤚ ߍ 㒄 ጟᰶᎡࢳट嗣ᏆႴВ䓫㒄℄㢩嗟%SBWJEJBO嗠 ᅁ⮴ი嗟-FFMB 1BMBDF ㏗ȡ͑ #BOHBMPSF嗠㘳ិ䓵ٰ̓ڙᐧまহ䰂ൾᐧ嗣ⶾ䨚ज䔪⏜㜠 ⮱㜡䰂ݨ嗣 ㉏ᅁ⮴იĄᥙ ݝąጯ͚ڣᏔㆠ倅ඁ䬕亝ጰ␎̺䃎 㐅࢝Ꮣ᪆⺋䄊ᩲθ嗣ᆂ⣝ࢄ࢝ᏓᄧᏆᐧま⎈⮱ ᓰȡ䙿Ꮔ࣯⚔䓵㉏ᅁ⮴ ៶䘪 ᪆Ƞڡ䛴ȡ䊑䋠〆⿸⺋ඁݺ嗣ⱩⲈᔆⶹౝ⁐䉼̭ᄷ ი⮱ఋ᪆Ƞ⺋ ᄷᵖᵖຯ⩌⮱⺋ᬻ嗣㏵λ䃖ឫݝ̭ᄷᰭૉ❞ श ᮛ ➦ হ ⁹ ᓤ ䷻ ᵩ 㔹 ऐᏚ䮏㒻ᓄБϧڒ⮱嗱̭Ѻ㑍Ɑጫ嗣⟣ѩႵ៑Ҭ㔲⮱⩤⺋䲍ౕ⺋ ᐧ嗣 ᘠ嗣⺋ᗲᴁহࣵᄷ䉢ȡ ⾿ᖜ嗣䔼䓴䰂⥏ࡻ㒻⮱ےڒЄ̷嗣ចⱭ㚛ൂ ࢝Ꮣ⺋Ꮖౕ࢝Ꮣౌౝ̷๖㏼ౝͶ嗣ѳ䃖ᗷ 䬕⁐䉼㐬ᘼ⯻♣⮱Ꮪ 䃣⮱᭜㕣⽐⮱䬕ᒿ็吅嗟4BJOU5IPNBT嗠「Ό 䮏㟞చ嗣۶ ䷻䭢䭢嗣ᓰ ౕⱌ⪆̸⌞⌞⮱䋠䔦ȡ䔆Ѻ䉕⪾㕣⽐ฺ≨⺋ ᬤ⺋ᕎȡ ᎡϻВ㞟݄Გݝ ⮴ი䙿Ꮔใ䔅ᰶٰ̭ڙऺ⮱䬕ᒿэ䄡ౕܧ䔦㔹 ࢝Ꮣભ៶៶э䖀嗣̺ᄾᒀౝϧЃ㔹Ԏ᪆嗣Ό≄ Ꮤ⮴იÿÿᎡᐧ 䯫ڲᎡ₨λペ̸嗣ౕⱌ⮱ ⮱⤚ߍ㒄ᅁ⮴იጯٰڙγȡЃ̺Ꭵౕ ䷻䘪䧻ᐧまڣ吅ᆞ₶䖀ȡЃ⮱䖄俥ᰭऻ㷘ፓ⻨࢝Ꮣ嗣ѳⱌ ᓄ̭㻮嗣็ ϧౕЃ⮱ಌව̷ᐧ䕍γ็吅⃬嗟4BO5IPNF ᵩҬႰ፥㷘䄜䃑ͧ㠞ప #BTJMJDB嗠㏗ᔢ䔆Ѻ࢝Ꮣ⮱Ⴕ៑ᒿȡ㠞పϧౕ ⍖㢻ൎ⮱Ą䊊৮ąȡႰ Ꭱ䛺ᐧ䔆Ꮤ᪆യȡ䔆Ꮤ㷘ᒀౝϧ⼝ͧ⮪᪆യ ͧ䓵㉏ᅁፊ⢸⮱႐ 3 фΝڙᬧȡᅞ᭜ౕ䔆䛹嗣 㵹ი嗣Ⱋݺ㮪䃖ڡ⮱㒄侙๖ͨ᪆യ⣝ϷϺ䲋፥ ”嗣ѳ n India, they take the words “royal treatment̺ڨ㻯䉼γ̭౧࢝Ꮣ๖ͨ᪆྇ȡ ⺕࣯㻯嗣ѳϺᆋλЃऻАᰶȡ⮴იԊ ,”ᓄВ䃖ϧ̭⿒ᒀᎡ⢸ბ⮱ Iseriously. When its finest hotels are called “palacesڤ䘕㒻⮱⨤ⵃহუڲ ȡݝⱌ̺ज䩆䓴⤰ڕ࢝Ꮣ㏞ͪࡻ㒻Ϙ㾶 ݝᰶᎡࢳट⮱͊㐥㏞ͪ⮫䉔ᏄĄͪą嗟/BMMJ嗠 ⩌≨ᒏᔮȡᎪᯄ⮱ẩᷜᠯ␎γ㸥ຠ⇦⩨嗣̻ओ͑ you expect to be surrounded by opulence fit for a king – and seldom come away disappointed. For many 䔆䛹ຯ䊝䔈̭͗ρᒖ㑑㏤嗣⩞䛾 䲏ᠯ␎⢸ბუⰥ❴⮱ෆ嗣Ⱕ䋐ȡ ڒ⍥ȡ䌼̭ luxury travelers, the discovery of the country’s regal ⮴ი嗣࣯ߍγ̭͗㵹㙇ࡷᬒ⍥ఏ嗣ᄩ⍥ܧᲒ⮱㟞㟞 䊝ܧ٬হᰭ䶣㏔⮱͊㐥ក䕍⤍㏬Ƞ⤍❴Ƞ heritage begins at one of these fairy-tale abodes. ⮫ༀ Mine certainly did. I started my discovery of Southڒጛ⮱ᕨ㷮㏔ϧ➖䊝ܧȡᏄঅः̸̭ᡳᡳ⮱倅㏔㏞ͪጰ᫆ᆂ㐆ᒲ χ⋓≫̀ፓᲒₑጯ⩺̓ ͚̭ᡳ⊤ḍ㞟͊㐥㏞ͪᐭ␎⩞䛾㏬㑊㐅 ࡧ嗣䃖ЃЙҀ侹ຏࡻ䙿ᏄВใ嗣࢝Ꮣ⮱ओ̭䲏ȡ⤚ India with the Leela Palace Chennai and the Leelaڣཅȡ 䬗䬗घⱮ̺ᐭⱩⲈȡ䔆㏞ͪ䛺䓫 ߍ㒄ᅁጯ͚ᓰᰶ͗䉘ჹ⮱ܳ⩹ÿÿᐧ⮱ैᗓ Palace Bangalore. The former is the “palace” of choiceٶ⮱㟞ᱢ嗣䛾 ρᭌຏࡻ䙿Ꮔऻ嗣ࡧࡧₒ䖒Ӭ᭜䉘ℾࡧȡࡵ for A. R. Rahman, the Oscar-winning music composer for Slumdog Millionaire, a Chennai resident who ऻᬣܳ嗣䉘ℾࡧܳႶ䲆嗣〆ౕϑࣶ䌜͚๛嗣ठ has thrown lavish private parties at its opulent event ⮱ڲӔ᭜̭ᢿᢿ㩙嗣ऻ᭜ᠡౕᅸݺᝃ᱕ḇ hall; the latter has served as entry points for the then Π➈嗣Ⱪ⺋⌲⒵嗣侜㞜ज❞ȡ㏼䓴̭ᢿᢿ⮱ⴠ▝ French President Nicolas Sarkozy and his wife Carla ᅸ嗣⾧⅁䛹ᑒⱭ㩙⮱凉仆嗣हᬣΌ䬨ݝუუᝤ Bruni, as well as celebrities such as Deepak Chopra ᝤ☦⚛ৃ⮱仆ঠ嗣ᱯⱭರ౫হ➈㇗⮱㜚ঠȡ and Tom Cruise. There are four Leela Palaces in India 嗣ਗ͗倅ᅇਗ͗ѻߐ嗣䄮ສ and two more are in the pipeline, all crown jewels ofัڞᗙ₷⮱ጛ䌊হᎠ 䄮౼嗣ጟ̺ܳ⌲ȡ܍͗⇎̷䄫⮱ᄼ႖ᅫ䮼Й嗣䃖 the Preferred Hotel Group, to which other respected members such as Singapore’s Fullerton Hotel and Й⚔ऻᐭᓰౝ䋾ఋუȡ➦ݘૉ⁏̭͗⭓⭓ Fullerton Bay Hotel belong. ⮱ᄼ⩤႖ȡЃ㚩㙳Ⴖ䲆ౝ䌌ⱭЙ嗣ⰸݝЙᠶ Authenticity was the first word that came to my ݺ㐆Ѓⰸ䪉̷۾ᔘ䬕̭㙥⮱ᓰ␎ᘼ䋠ȡ̸ mind when describing Indian luxury. More so than ͚⮱Ѓ嗣Ѓ␎䋠ౝ〾γȡ䗐㏜ⱌ⮱〾ღᄼࡧ− anywhere else, the delivery of luxury is so much a 2 ∋䛹Ɑ⮱ⴠȡិႰᩣສ嗣ፓఋუȡ part of the Indians’ cultural DNA. As recent as up to
ISSUE 48 • ZbBz 93 ⼸JOURNEYS
traditional patterns by craftsmen. Antique tapestries are framed and placed in hallways and hotel guests can admire them in close proximity; 3m-tall chandeliers hang from the ceilings of event halls and in a private dining room within Jamavar, the hotel’s signature South Indian restaurant, the ceiling where these chandeliers hang from are adorned with a 18K gold and silver painting, which took a week to create. The plates that hold your bar of soap in the bathroom have mother-of- pearl generously embedded in them. Far richer than these luxuries is the legacy of South India’s culture and history. I visited Kapaleeswara Temple, Chennai’s famous Shiva temple rebuilt 350 years ago in the Dravidian style, an epicentre around which Mylapore is built. It remains today a living place of worship. Typical to southern Indian temples, Kapaleeswara’s entrance and inner courtyard have two awe-inspiring gopurams, or monumental towers, that rise as high as 37m, each decorated by uncountable sculptures of deities. I could gaze at these beautifully life-like figures for hours and, like most visitors, enjoyed a little game of spotting my favourites. I particularly liked a blue-turbaned guardian god who perches himself on his staff. There is such gentle grace and regality even as he is taking a break from his task. What I did not expect to find was an ancient basilica with a direct lineage to Jesus Christ. Today, it is a thriving Catholic cathedral. I witnessed a wedding mass at the San Thome Basilica built on top of the tomb of Saint Thomas (yes, the doubting one), one of Jesus’ apostles who was believed to have come to India in 52 AD and baptised several people who are ancestors to today’s Saint Thomas Christians or Nasranis. The evangelist died by the spears near Madras and was made a martyr in 72 AD. His relics had been moved out of India but he is known by Indian Christians as the patron saint of India. Hence, the 4 basilica may appear relatively new as the British had its independence in 1947, India was ruled by rajas You can spend hours wandering in the guest areas and maharajas, the Sanskrit titles for great kings. It of the palatial hotel, marveling at the intricacies of its consisted of more than 600 princely states, some of interior and fittings. The hotel’s architecture and interior whose legacy could be traced back to the 16th century, is richly inspired by the palatial elements from the when the Mughal Maharaja of Persian and Mongolian Chettinad dynasty. The Chettiars are traditionally the descent (with an ancestry tracing back to Genghis elite mercantile and banking castes in South India often Khan) invaded the Indian subcontinent and heralded referred to as the spout from whence the rich south the Mughal empire which lasted from 1570 to 1857. Indian culture springs. The Chettiars were well known Today, while the maharajas’ royal descendants for their mansions eclectically decorated by chandeliers have lost their ruling powers, their wealth and lands from Italy, wall-to-wall mirrors from Belgium, European have been a springboard to their ascent as business crystals, teak from Burma, and other precious goods tycoons, and the legacy of their royal lifestyle can still obtained through trade. be felt in the conduct of India’s five- and even six-star A Chettinad courtyard house often showcased luxury hotels. intricate inlaid parquet marble floors within the inner Luxury From Around The World and outer verandas, as well as elaborate Burmese teak The Leela Palaces are not historically palaces, but carvings around entrances. The hotel magnificently pays they may as well be, since they are often built on the homage to these Chettinad traditions: its courtyard architectural principles unique to the palaces in their wall features a Tree of Life sculpture encrusted in blue regions. The Leela Palace Chennai is even built on gemstones overlooking a huge reflecting pool. The palatial grounds. From the back of the hotel, you can lobby’s beautiful vase-like teak pillars are unmistakably peek into the private palace of the former royal family Chettinad. Its event halls and corridors are adorned 5 which still owns the land. with Thikrie mirror tiles, painstakingly hand-laid into
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rebuilt it in 1893, but its soul is as old as Christianity. Bangalore Palace, the palatial site that lies closest Leela Palace Chennai I made a stop at Nalli, one of Chennai’s oldest silk to the southern Indian city, is really a 1944 Tudor- Adyar Seaface, M.R.C Nagar, saris boutique. The 85-year-old six-level sari emporium style mansion often mistaken to be a replica of the Raja Annamalai Puram, Chennai 60002 near the Mambalam Railway Station is the purveyor Windsor Castle in England. Built as a summer palace of the finest and most ornate saris, hand-woven and and currently owned by the scion of the Mysore royal Leela Palace Bangalore 23, Old Airport Road, Kodihalli, made from fine gold threads, sequins and beadings. family, the quaint palace still appears regal despite the Bangalore, Karnataka 560008 The staff unfurled a fuchsia sari before me and I was wear on its edges. As we navigate through the palace, nearly blinded by the gold in the threads used to create which the prince still inhabits in wings closed off to Nalli Silks Sarees its floral design. The sari weighs about 4kg and costs the public, some stairwells are lined with oil paintings AA-13, II Avenue, Annanagar, Chennai 600040 US$1,500 (S$1,900). of erotic nudes, while others are filled with images of A large part of India’s richness lies in the length past rajas and the royal family. San Thome Basilica and breadth of its complex dichotomy. Back at the Leela To scratch beneath the surface of Bangalore, 19/38, Santhome High Road, Palace Chennai, which is built facing Chennai’s 13km I joined a walking tour conducted by Arun Pai, an Mylapore, Chennai 600004 Marina Beach, the suites offer magnificent urban ocean engaging storyteller who specialises in offering views. But turn your gaze just slightly and a fishermen’s foreign CEOs a snapshot of India’s cultures and Bangalore Palace slum comes into view. Outside the cossetted comfort of history outside the walls of their hotels. You do not Vasant Nagar, Bangalore, Karnataka 560052 the hotel lies the chaos and poverty of Chennai. Such is come to Bangalore to see a building, you come to the stark reality and spectrum of India, where one can experience 1,000 years of history all within four miles (4) Young women praying at Kapaleeswara Temple in go from palace to slum, heaven to earth in an instant. of the Leela, says Arun. “We live across different Chennai. The famous Shiva temple, which was rebuilt 350 years ago, remains today a thriving place of worships for Blown Back To The Past centuries all at the same time,” he adds like a time- Southern Indians. ࢎፂ䛹⨓៶ᏆጟᰶᎡࢳट喑Ϻ ᬧ喑Ꭱ䒨⮱ຠԎᒿ㮁䄇䌗᠉ȡڡ▘Bangalore, my next stop, offers me respite from travelling sage. 仆 Chennai’s chaos and humidity. Though the cosmopolitan Beyond the new Hyatt hotel, which serves (5) San Thome Basilica, boasting direct lineage to Jesus as a watershed point between the haves and the city immersed in an IT boom boasts of cool temperate Christ, stands as a living testament to Chennai’s weather, the Silicon Valley of India is not well known as have-nots, our guide prepared us mentally for the religious and cultural richness. It is built on top of the a tourist hub. The real deal is Mysore Palace, that does change in scenery ahead in what turned out to be my tomb of Saint Thomas, Jesus’ famous doubting apostle, favourite experience of Bangalore. who was believed to have traveled to India in 52 AD, not quite sit in Bangalore’s vicinity. The second most- baptised several people and was killed by spears in 72 ᎡϻВ㞟݄Გݝٰڙvisited site in India next to the Taj Mahal, it is more than a Fresh vegetable and fruit stands lined the AD. 㕣⽐⮱䬕ᒿ็吅э䄡ౕ ᎡЃ₨λペ̸喑ⱌϧౕЃٰڙthree-hour ride away from the city. streets, while cows grazed in sheds or in front of ࢝Ꮣભ៶៶э䖀ȡ Intriguingly, the many foreign dignitaries and CEOs homes, as the smell of home cooking lifted by the ⮱ಌව̷ᐧ䕍γ็吅⃬㏗ᔢ䔆Ѻ࢝Ꮣ⮱Ⴕ៑ ᒿȡ㠞పϧౕᎡ䛺ᐧ䔆Ꮤ᪆യȡ who visit Bangalore for business are still greeted by the fragrance of ghee filled the air, interspersed with the striking likeness of the famous palace. The Leela Palace stench of rotting rubbish and cow dung. Curious (6) The impressive Leela Palace Bangalore’s courtyard is a sight to behold. The hotel’s architecture and interior Bangalore is a literal representation of the Mysore kids tailed us, happy to just have their photos taken, is inspired by the Mysore Palace. 䛹៶⤚ߍ㒄ᅁ⮴ი࣯ maybe because it brings them closest to the tech ऐᏚ䮏䰂⥏ࡻ㒻⮱䬕ᵳѼ㐬ڒPalace, which is a blend of Muslim, Hindu, Rajput and ⚔䓵㉏ᅁ⮴ი㔹ᐧȡ western Gothic styles. The hotel walkways and interiors toys that are otherwise elusive to them. ᘼ⯻♣⮱㟞చ喑㒻ຯ๖യȡ are decorated by breathtaking and ornate archways and During that walk, a barefoot child followed our (7) Leela Palace Chennai’s interior is richly inspired by massive gothic pillars. The hotel courtyard incorporates group shyly, content to have his photos taken and the palatial elements from the Chettinad dynasty. The ancient architectural wisdom which creates a natural made no demands. I stooped down to show him Chettiars are traditionally the elite mercantile and wind tunnel. On most mornings, guests can stand the photo I had taken of him, of what he looked like banking castes in South India were well known for their eclectically decorated mansions. 䛹៶ⱌ⮴იϻⱌ near the ornate courtyard and feel transported by the through my eyes. His genuine sweet smile upon ܴ㦯㏠ᓤ䆗䗥ᐧま᪴ࡃ॥ःࡻȡܴ㦯χᅁᆋλ࢝ breezes to the country’s ancient past. Its iconic Islamic seeing his images is a priceless memory for me. Ꮣ̓㷚͚⮱ੳ䉤㠞䉢ȡЃЙᬖᎡ侞㝦ݝ⊤ใϑ domes are lit up by countless bulbs at night, just like Through his eyes, I thought I had caught a glimpse of ᭀ喑ិ̓⩹ऱౝ⮱䆗ࡻຏҵ৮ፓఋუ喑ͧₑЃЙ⮱䆗 the Mysore Palace. a little prince that roams this royal land. 䗥ВᲮᅪຏࡻ㦄ऺȡ
ISSUE 48 • ZbBz 95 Jour⊤㻿n⍥TRAVEL al 5&95᳄ь
The Black Pearl Residence 䔆ᎏѺλጹ㙷0VUPGUIF#MVF Out of the Blue Capsis Elite Resort $BQTJT &MJUFᏓմ᱾⮱⠙ᴸ⻮ϧݘ Agia Pelagia, Crete, Greece ⼝҉Ą叾⣺⤍ąᒀᬍᙔ嗣ͧ +30-281-0811112 www.capsis.com Ⴐₐຯ叾⣺⤍̭ᵤ⣺㒂ᰶȡᏓմ 䛹➦嗟$SFUF嗠ᇈ̷ٸ᱾Ѻλጹ㙷 Nikko Bali Resort & Spa Jalan Terompong Peminge ㏓̴Ꭰㆠ⮱⻮ჳࡷᇈ嗣 Benoa Badung, Nusa Dua, Bali ᠒ᰶ̺͗हͨ䷅̻䷻ᵩ⮱䙿Ꮔȡ +62-361-773377 ͚叾⣺ ⤍ ⻮ ϧݘ嗟5 I Fڣ www.nikkobali.com ጹ㙷ڕMBDL1FBSM3FTJEFODF嗠᭜# Banyan Tree Chongqing Beibei 㐊ᬍϲᰶ⮱䆗ࡻ⠙ᴸᏓմᅸ嗣Ό᭜ 101 Hot Spring Road 1SFGFSSFE)PUFM䯳ఏ̸䶣㏔ຏࡻ⮱ Chengjiang, Beibei District Chongqing ݘ̭ȡ +86-023-60305555 Ą叾⣺⤍ąࢂ᭜䲏⼜ᅞᰶ reservations-chongqingbei- ใᰶ͑ڲ[email protected] ᎠㆠȡႰ倅Ꮣ⻮ჳ嗣ᝤ ͗⻮ϧ∠嗣䃫࠲᠙⻮ϧᒞ䮏Ƞ 亚ࢲȠࢲȠࣕᝬȠ⻮ϧ֒䏘ᝬȠౌ 㧥↪⊡ბぶ嗣䔋ノუ䘪ᰶ㜗ጞڣ㕠 ⮱ᝬ䬡ȡͨϧᝬ䛴⩕䛾㞟ͨ䷅嗣䔶 嗣᠒ᰶ㜗ڤ䯲㜡⮱ᘼ๔ݖ#PGGJუ⩕ ጞ⮱ᠶᦖ⊡嗣हᬣΌ䔋ᣒ⻮ϧ∠ 叾⣺⤍⻮ϧݘ⮱ⰸझᐧౕ ❞⥡⊤̷嗣౽᠒ᬍ᩹⊤ᮜȡ 嗣⊡⮱᱕झ̷䔅㘪䖒᱈ጹ㙷ࡰ 䄊э䄡⮱❞⥡⊤̷ȡ⺋␎ٲᎡऑ䔦ȡĄ叾⣺⤍ąⱌₐ⮱偲߈ౕλႰ⮱⻮ϧࣹᅯ᱕ⰸझ嗣Ⱑᣒᥚᐧౕ Ꮇぶ̶͗䘕ܳ嗣䃖ϧϘऄ❞⥡⊤ᅞౕҍ㙇̸⮱๖ϧ⊡ٶጕ๔⮱ⰸझ㘪ღ㏠ϧ嗣ܳᝤใ亚ࢲȠᬒ व̭ධ⩹ȡ
ౕ⊤㻿๖⋜̻❞ϧ䲏ᄦⱭ㨊๖̻⊤∸嗣ₒा㏏ౝℜ⮱ओ̭〜᭜䃥็ϧᓰⰛ͚⮱Ⴙ㒻྇ȡᇴ ࣅᇈ̷⮱ρᭌ㏔Ꮣմ᱾ᬒ㝗䙿Ꮔ嗟/JLLP#BMJ3FTPSU4QB嗠ౕㆠ倅⮱ᗙቃ̷ᥚᐧ྇䃫嗣 ◦ក䕍⮱ᄼ᪆യ䃖ϧ䲏ᄦⱭ̭❴ᬍ್⮱ป㻯࢝Ꮣ⊤∸䃮྇嗣̺ͧᄾᒲཅ྇ౝ⦰⣨ڕ͚ڣ ⮱仃䔶ȡহ䃥็ᇴࣅᇈ̷⮱Ꮣմ᱾̺ह⮱᭜嗣/JLLP倅䍋ᗙቃㆠ嗣౽᠒ป㻯⊤ᮜ嗣ౕᇈ̷䲋፥⼭ ⮱᭜ᎏ⠙ᴸ⊤ᮜ̻㟞చᮜ㻯Ꮣմᅸࣷݘܧ⮫̴䉱䛾⌨䃫䃫嗣ᰭᣕڒᰶȡ/JLLPϷᎡ䔅ែ ÿÿ࠲᠙ᴸ̭ᝬᐼ⊤ᮜ∠ݘȠᴸ̭ᝬᐼ∠ݘȠᴸ͑ᝬᐼ⮴უݘ嗣Вࣷᴸ̶ᝬᐼ ⫃උ∝៶ݘȡᗙቃ̷Όߍᐧγ䲏⊤⮱็⩕䕁სчࢲȡ⊗Ƞᗍ䬟Ƞ⦝ͪ嗣ߍ̷⣝ᰶ⮱.BOEBSBⅡ ͚ᓰȠ侾侳侩ᣏ䮖Ƞḛ᳄㥒ぶ≨ߕ嗣ᰡ䃖Ⴐͧ྇๘ິ⮱ᷓᘠᏓմͽచȡ ͚పΌᰶ∎↑ᩫᲫ䏘ᓰ⮱ສౝ◦ȡᗓỂ䯳ఏڣВᒭᘠ䊤⍖⇶ᅞᘠ䊤ᬒ᱙হझ⎫嗣 #BOZBO5SFF ౕ䛺Ꮃᐭ䃫ᬄ̸す̭უ⍖⇶䙿Ꮔ嗣Ѻλ䛺Ꮃ 嗣ӊջ㑆ξᆞᆞ㙇̸嗣⍖⇶Ⅱᑂ㜗ڲࡄ嗣౽㥪㜗♣Ԋ៑ࡧ 䛺Ꮃࡄ⍖⇶ࡧ嗣কᖖᲒȠ䗀ᄼᎠぶ䘪ᰫݝₑ̸Ứᄼᛖȡ䛺 Ꮃࡄ⍖⇶ᮜࡧᰶ䊲䓴ࡰᎡࢳट嗣ݺ䏘᭜⍖⇶ᄧ嗣ᐧλᎡ ⮱ࢄ݅ႸᮜᎠٰᎡ嗣͚పЮ͇უ҉ႇᰡλᎡౕₑ చȡ䛺ᎳࡄᗓỂᎱᰶ䬡ຄᝬڙ⇶ߋଶ䮢⍖݈ ♣ࣷݘ嗣䬡ᝬ䘪ᰶ⻮ϧ⍖⇶∎嗣⇶Ⅱᑂ㜗䔆䛹⮱๖ ⍖⇶嗣䉸εѼ⍖⋓́⻮ჳ⮱∎↑Ҁ侹ȡ䮑ₑใ嗣䙿Ꮔ ࣷბใ⍖⇶∎嗣㐆εѼڲ⮱ᗓỂ4QBΌ䃫ᰶ͗ბڲ ࡃ⮱∎↑ᘶᗓȡ䙿Ꮔ䌊䛺Ꮃࡄప䭲ᱧ౧̻䛺Ꮃጯࡧٰ็
ᬒ㝗䙿Ꮔᐧౕᗙቃ̷嗣⣨⦰ᄼϚ䃖̭ᄦϧ ܳ䧌̻ܳ䧌䒓⼸ȡѼ䮑γ∎↑䔅㘪ᄨᎪᣏჳ嗣ᨭ⮨ 䲏ᄦ⊤∸⊗䃮྇ȡ 㑆ξᆞ嗣࣯㻯ࡰᎡऑݦ嗣∈㝌ଶ䮢̷嗣৮ᅊౕౝ㒻丌ȡ ౕ䛺ᎳࡄᗓỂᎱ嗣䬡ᝬ䘪ᰶ⻮ϧ⍖⇶∎ȡ
34 ZbBz • ISSUE 48