LEFKOSIA (LEFKOŞ A) © LonelyPlanetPublications Lefkosia asonecity, thoughitmaystillbeyearsuntilit’strulythatway. might bringreunification. Withcrossingtoandfromadeeasier,it’spossibleseefeel the capitalreflects thestoryofCyprus:itstwopeople,divided,are glancingatafuture that North: modern (Greek) Lefkosia and traditional (Turkish) North Nicosia(Lefko modern(Greek) North LefkosiaNorth: andtraditional(Turkish) hordes.but itrescues Lefkosia from thepackage-tourist barsandbeautiful,often dilapidatednight, hidingchurches,mosques,arty colonialhouses. Thelection. OldCity’snarrowstreets are alabyrinth,teeming duringthedayandghostlyat The country’sbestmuseumishere, withanextensive– basicmake-up. archaeological col- traditional eateries andagrowingmulticulturalcore showcasethecity’s–andcountry’s it’s idealforexperiencingwhatmodernCyprusisallabout.The ancientwalls,glitzybars, oftown. betweenthetwoparts allows pedestrianstohopbackandforth half.into itsnorthern This isespeciallysowiththerecently openedLedra Stcrossing,which reality that,althoughstillpresent, isslowlychanging thanksto24-hourcheckpointcrossings Lefkosia. The cityhasbeenlabelledwiththebeaten clichéof‘thelastdividedcapital’,a you spendsometimeinthecountry’scapital,knownofficially(andtoGreek as speakers) If yougettired ofthecoast’slazy,beach-bumlifestyle, andeven sure ifyoudon’t, make (Lefko Lefkosia 64 The cityissplitalmostevenly betweentheRepublicanSouth andtheTurkish-occupied Lefkosia’s highsummertemperatures are bothacurseandblessing;theheatistough, Lefkosia (population213,500)isanattractive, enticingcityandthecountry’s culturalheart;
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