South Portland-Portland City Guide

Portland, Maine Portland, Maine

Overview Introduction

Portland is Maine's largest city: Almost one-quarter of the state population lives within the greater metro area. Set on a peninsula that stretches into Casco Bay, Portland is a sophisticated coastal city with a working waterfront, but it also has its share of nearby beaches and lighthouses.

Fittingly, Portland has many of the enjoyable things, minus the hassle, that a big city can provide—a healthy arts scene, stylish restaurants, a respected symphony, the world-class Portland Museum of Art, minor-league baseball and ice-hockey teams, a slew of galleries and boutiques, and a collection of stately homes.

A downtown Portland renewal effort over the past few decades has reclaimed treasured Victorian-era buildings, refitted the gas lamps along the cobblestoned streets in the Old Port Exchange (known to locals as the Old Port) and sparked civic pride among residents.

Highlights

Sights—The quintessential Maine lighthouse, Portland Head Light; the magnificent views from the Portland Observatory and Fort Allen Park; the opulent splendor of the Victoria Mansion; Wadsworth-Longfellow House, the poet's boyhood home; the Eagle Island summer home of Arctic explorer Admiral Robert E. Peary.

Museums—Classic American and European paintings at the Portland Museum of Art; train rides at the Maine Narrow Gauge Railroad Company & Museum.

Memorable Meals—Chowder and a lobster roll at The Lobster Shack, on the ocean front; upscale American cuisine at Fore Street Restaurant; innovative dishes featuring organic ingredients at Hugo's; sushi at Miyake; grilled Maine blueberry muffins at Marcy's Diner; delightfully different pizzas at the cozy, family-friendly Flatbread Co.

Late Night—Drinking beer at Gritty McDuff's or Brian Boru; seeing a performance at SPACE Gallery; relaxing to live music at One Longfellow Square.

Walks—Circling the scenic bay along the Back Cove trail; strolling among the shops in the historic Old Port; taking in the Casco Bay scenery; enjoying nature at Maine Audubon's Gilsland Farm; soaking up rays at Crescent Beach State Park.

Especially for Kids—Interactive exhibits at the Children's Museum of Maine; waterslides and rides at Funtown Splashtown USA; a Portland Sea Dogs baseball game; an astronomy show at the Southworth Planetarium.

Geography

The city is centered on a peninsula that protrudes into Casco Bay. From the water, Portland rises onto hillsides that offer views of nearby residential islands to the east and the mountains in neighboring New Hampshire to the west.

Commercial Street runs along the southeastern edge of the peninsula, lining Portland's waterfront and forming one border of the historic Old Port, perhaps the city's most popular tourist destination. Just a tad farther inland, close to the geographic center of the Portland peninsula, is the downtown area known as the Arts District, which extends along Congress Street.

Potpourri

Page 1 of 14 Copyright ©2021 Northstar Travel Media LLC. All Rights Reserved. Portland's official seal features a phoenix rising from the ashes and its motto, Resurgam (I will rise again), is quite appropriate. The city was leveled four times by fire or invasions and was rebuilt each time.

Eartha, the world's largest rotating globe (it's true—Guinness World Records says so), is located at the DeLorme map company in Yarmouth, about 15 mi/24 km northeast of Portland. The globe measures 41 ft/12.5 m in diameter and is full of amazing color and detail.

Today you can scarcely walk a block in Portland without finding a tavern or pub offering spirits or locally brewed beer. However, in 1815 the city was host to the first ever Total Abstinence Society. Clearly an influential bunch, Maine's teetotalers banned booze by 1851. Known as the "Maine Law," it was the forerunner of Prohibition, which was in effect 1920-33.

Explorer John Smith dubbed the islands that are scattered off the coast of greater Portland the Calendar Islands, claiming there was an island in Casco Bay for each day of the year. The exact number is debated, but it is agreed that more than 150 of them are larger than an acre/half-hectare. Today, several are home to year-round communities.

The lobster roll sandwich is everywhere in Maine—even McDonald's sells it during the summer. What to expect: chunks of lobster mixed with mayonnaise or served with melted butter (or both) on a toasted hot-dog bun, which in Maine may be flat instead of rounded. Maine has a lower minority population than any other state than any other state but was a leader in the 19thcentury Underground Railr oad. Not surprising, since it borders Canada and was a rockbed of the abolitionist movement. Granite markers in Portland commemora te this legacy as the Portland Freedom Trail. Even Hollywood knows Portland's charms: Deering Oaks Park was the location for the skating scene in the movie The Preacher's Wife.

The city's enduring connection to the sea is memorialized by artist Robert Wyland's Whaling Wall mural, measuring 450 sq ft/137 sq m, on the waterfront at Franklin and Commercial streets. The mural is part of one of the largest public art projects in history, with Whaling Walls in 79 cities across five continents.

Portland was the state's first, and temporary, capital. In 1832 the capital was moved to the more centrally located city of Augusta.

Hotel Overview

Visitors to Portland will find an abundant choice of lodgings, from inexpensive chain motels to luxurious hotels and inns in historic parts of the city. There are also numerous bed-and-breakfasts in town, which will give you a good introduction to the kinds of historic homes you'll be visiting while touring Portland.

See & Do Sightseeing

The highlight for most visitors is a stroll through the Old Port—a five-block district of cobblestoned streets, brick sidewalks and restored buildings from the 1800s. Bookstores, antiques shops, galleries, specialty shops, cafes and restaurants make the area a pleasant place to spend an entire day. Architecture buffs who look up above street level will be treated to views of slate mansard roofs, Gothic windows and Queen Anne towers.

You'll find historic dwellings outside of the Old Port, as well. There's a particularly strong assemblage on the Western Promenade, an area of elegant Queen Anne, Maine shingle and colonial-revival houses. Congress Street, between Monument Square and High Street, is known as the Arts District. The centerpiece of the neighborhood is the Portland Museum of Art, though the respected Maine College of Art (MECA), various galleries, shops and cafes line the street and add to the culture of the area as well. Walking through this district, you'll be amazed to find how much art surrounds you—in galleries, restaurants, on the street (in summer) and even on public walls in the form of murals.

Look for the Downtown District Guides, recognizable by their outback hats and purple shirts. They walk the streets in the summer and early fall, armed with directions, suggestions and free maps. The success of the First Friday Art Walk program is yet another testament to the strength of the city's art scene. On the first Friday of every month 5-8 pm, free self-guided tours of dozens of galleries, museums and other venues are scheduled.

Finally, the Maine seacoast is always an attraction in itself. In the summer, whale-watching tours and fishing and sailing excursions are popular. You can also enjoy the city's scenic shoreline from several vantage points. For the most panoramic views, try the venerable Portland Observatory. If you prefer not to climb the observatory's 103 steps, the Eastern Promenade's Fort Allen Park is another good place to view

Remember that a number of Portland's attractions, including certain historic houses and museums, scale back their days of operation in the nonsummer months. Call ahead if you're planning a visit then.

Historic Sites

Wadsworth-Longfellow House Maintained by the Maine Historical Society, the Wadsworth-Longfellow House was constructed in 1786 in what was then the far reaches of town. (It's now in the middle of the business district.) 489 Congress St. As the city's first completely brick structure, it survived the Great Fire of 1866 that destroyed Portland, ME much of Portland. Poet, scholar and translator Henry Wadsworth Longfellow grew up there, and Phone: 207-774-1822 some of the furnishings are associated with him. Don't miss the beautiful gardens. http://www.mainehistory.org May daily noon-5 pm; June-October Monday-Saturday 10 am-5 pm, Sunday noon-5 pm. US$15 adults.

Victoria Mansion Also called the Morse-Libby House, this 20-room Civil War-era brownstone is among the finest specimens of Italianate architecture in the U.S. It was built as a summer residence by New 109 Danforth St. Orleans hotelier Ruggles Morse, a Maine native. Many of the rooms feature period decor, and Portland, ME much of the furniture, decoration and carpeting is original. Phone: 207-772-4841

Monday-Saturday 10 am-3:45 pm, Sunday 1-4:45 pm May-October; Monday 11 am-6:30 pm, http://www.victoriamansion.org Tuesday-Sunday 11 am-4:30 pm late November-early January. US$16 adults.

Portland Observatory Towering 86 ft/26 m above its Munjoy Hill neighborhood, the observatory is a wooden signal tower dating from 1807. Guided tours lead visitors to an observation deck. Not to be confused 138 Congress St. with a stargazing observatory, this rustic landmark offers excellent 360-degree views of the city, Portland, ME taking in Portland's wharf areas, seashore and islands. A great spot for a panoramic photo. Phone: 207-774-5561

Daily 10 am-4:30 pm. US$10 adults. http://www.portlandlandmarks.org

Portland Head Light If you've ever received a postcard from Maine or flipped through a calendar of New England landmarks, chances are you've already seen the Portland Head Light, Maine's oldest and 1000 Shore Road (about 20 minutes probably most picturesque lighthouse. It was commissioned in the 1780s by U.S. President from downtown Portland) George Washington and remains a working lighthouse to this day. The keeper is gone Cape Elizabeth, ME (replaced by modern technology), but his former residence is now a small museum. Phone: 207-799-2661

Daily 10 am-4 pm. Free admission to the lighthouse. The museum is US$2 adults. http://www.portlandheadlight.com

Museums

Southworth Planetarium At the University of Southern Maine's Portland campus, this sky theater depicts the moon, sun, planets and more than 5,000 stars. Call for daily updated show listings. 70 Falmouth St. (in the campus Science Building) Monday-Thursday 7 am-3 pm, Friday 7 am-8 pm, Saturday 11 am-4 pm, Sunday 2-4 pm. Portland, ME US$6.50 adults for evening shows, US$5.50 matinee shows. Phone: 207-228-8591 https://usm.maine.edu/planet

Page 3 of 14 Copyright ©2021 Northstar Travel Media LLC. All Rights Reserved. Portland Museum of Art The I.M. Pei-designed Portland Museum of Art contains three centuries of American and European fine and decorative arts. One of the museum's great strengths is in painters who 7 Congress Square summered—and, in some cases, lived year-round—on the Maine coast: Rockwell Kent, Portland, ME Marsden Hartley, N.C. and Andrew Wyeth, Edward Hopper, Waldo Peirce, John Singer Phone: 207-775-6148 Sargent, Robert Indiana and the redoubtable Winslow Homer. The museum's noted Homer http://www.portlandmuseum.org collection includes his first oil painting, Sharpshooter, and a nearly comprehensive collection of 400 illustrations.

Saturday-Wednesday 10 am-6 pm, Thursday and Friday 10 am-8 pm in summer; Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday 10 am-6 pm, Thursday and Friday 10 am-8 pm in winter. US$18 adults.

Maine Narrow Gauge Railroad Company & Museum A must-see for railroad buffs. The museum's exhibits show how timbermen built narrow-gauge railroads into the state's interior woodlands. 58 Fore St. Portland, ME Saturday and Sunday 9:30 am-4 pm. US$5 adults. Phone: 207-828-0814 http://www.mainenarrowgauge.org

Children's Museum of Maine Interactive exhibits include a small-scale town where children can run a grocery store, work in a car-repair shop or pretend to be a firefighter. The Discovery Woods exhibit provides a rugged 142 Free St. mountain-climbing and Maine-woods camping experience, and the exhibit What About Portland, ME Whales? features a life-size inflatable whale that visitors can climb inside to learn about how Phone: 207-828-1234 she eats, moves and more. A camera obscura offers a panoramic view of Portland and teaches http://www.kitetails.org about vision and sight. Third floor exhibits include We Are Maine, exploring cultures and traditions of immigrant families during the course of 100 years, as well as a space shuttle exhibit, and hands-on art and science projects.

Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-5 pm; in summer also open Monday 10 am-5 pm. US$12.50 adults.

Neighborhoods & Districts

Western Promenade Situated along the similarly named boulevard that arcs along the west side of town, this area is known for its classic architecture. One of the country's best-preserved Victorian residential neighborhoods, the Promenade was laid out in 1836 as a public walk and carriageway and eventually gave its name to the whole quarter. Today, visitors can stroll past elegant Queen Anne, colonial-revival and Maine shingle-style homes, several of which are now bed-and-breakfasts. From its perch 175 ft/53 m above sea level, the Promenade offers views to the White Mountains and beyond.

Waterfront This district, adjacent to the Old Port and running along Commercial Street, is an unassuming and remarkably sanitary working port where you can watch fishermen tie up their boats to unload the day's catch. Cruise ships dock there, and several operators of harbor cruises have ticket booths along the waterfront. There are also a number of shops and restaurants in this area, which is evolving into Portland's design center, with stores offering furniture, artisan tile and home accessories. And be sure to grab a bite at Becky's Diner, a fisherman's favorite where you'll find downtown lawyers and lobstermen sitting side by side, sating their hunger with plates of eggs, homemade muffins and bowls of granola with fresh fruit and yogurt.

Page 4 of 14 Copyright ©2021 Northstar Travel Media LLC. All Rights Reserved. The Arts District Bisected and anchored by Congress Street, this is a continually emerging and lively neighborhood, combining office buildings with the city's burgeoning art scene. There are small galleries, shops, farmers markets (in Monument Square Wednesday 7 am-2 pm and in Deering Oaks Park Saturday 7 am-noon April-November), historic buildings, performance venues (Merrill Auditorium, State Theater and One Longfellow Square, among others) and several of the city's finest museums. Just off Congress Street are such treasures as the Cumberland County Civic Center (home to the Portland Pirates hockey team) and the Portland Museum of Art. It's not as polished and touristy as the Old Port, and many residents consider the downtown Arts District to be the real soul of the city.

Old Port An easy walk from the cruise ship pier, the Old Port is Portland's leading tourist attraction, and it remains a true and historic working waterfront. The compact neighborhood is a collection of restaurants, cafes, specialty shops and galleries housed in lovely mansard, Italianate and Victorian-style buildings and brick warehouses. Revitalization has added pocket parks, trompe l'oeil murals and faux Victorian-style gas lamps in place of the usual streetlights, plus a proliferation of Victorian-inspired wooden signs outside shops. The effect is a quaint yet trendy New England feel, as of Nantucket or Newport, with stores selling fine crafts, fashion and jewelry as well as T-shirts— and an abundance of souvenirs with lobster and lighthouse themes.

Parks & Gardens

Two Lights State Park This 41-acre/16.6-hectare seaside park affords a panoramic view of the ocean from what was once a gun battery. The park is named for two lighthouses, one of which Edward Hopper 7 Tower Drive (from Highway 77, turn on immortalized in his painting Lighthouse at Two Lights, located at the end of Two Lights Road. Two Lights Road, watch for sign) Only one of the namesake lights is still active; the other is a private home. Picnic and restroom Cape Elizabeth, ME facilities are on-site. Phone: 207-799-5871

Daily 9 am-dusk. US$5 adults. http://www.maine.gov/cgi- bin/online/doc/parksearch/index.pl

Scarborough Marsh This nature center operated by the Maine Audubon Society is Maine's largest salt marsh and nature preserve, with numerous species of plants, flowers and birds. The information center 92 Pine Point Road (off Highway 1) provides brochures and maps for self-guided walking tours along the area's trails. Canoe and Scarborough, ME kayak rentals as well as supervised canoe tours are also available. Weekly programs include Phone: 207-883-5100 educational tours and events for kids. https://www.maineaudubon.org/visit/scarb Daily 9 am-5:30 pm May-September. Free. orough-marsh

Mackworth Island Donated to the state in 1946 by Gov. Percival Baxter as a wildlife and bird sanctuary, this 100- acre/40-hectare island has a 1.5-mi/2.4-km walking trail along the wooded shore that offers Off Andrews Avenue at Highway 1 (5 mi/7 panoramic views of Portland and Casco Bay. Parking is very limited; there's only a small lot at km from Portland) the trailhead. Falmouth, ME Phone: 207-781-3919. Toll-free 888- Open daylight hours year-round. 624-6345 http://visitmaine.com/things-to- do/outdoors-adventure/parks-recreation- areas/mackworth-island

Page 5 of 14 Copyright ©2021 Northstar Travel Media LLC. All Rights Reserved. Gilsland Farm An official Maine Audubon Sanctuary, this 60-acre/24-hectare facility is a nature and wildlife habitat along the banks of the Presumpscot River just north of Portland in Falmouth. It includes 20 Gilsland Farm Road (off Highway 1, 5 2.5 mi/4 km of easy walking trails, organic gardens, an extensive education center and a well- mi/7 km from Portland) stocked gift shop. Falmouth, ME Phone: 207-781-2330 Monday-Friday 9 am-4 pm, Saturday 10 am-4 pm, Sunday noon–4 pm. Free. https://www.maineaudubon.org/visit/gilsla nd-farm

Fort Williams Park This 95-acre/38-hectare municipal park contains the remains of the stately Goddard Mansion, built in 1858, and the landmark Portland Head Light. Pack a picnic lunch and watch colorful 1000 Shore Road kites soar in the ocean breeze. There's also a playground for the youngsters and a small beach. Cape Elizabeth, ME Special events include Family Fun Day, the Labor Day Art Show and the People's Beach to Phone: 207-799-9547 Beacon 10K Road Race. https://portlandheadlight.com Daily sunrise-sunset. Free.

Deering Oaks Park This gem of a city park, designed by New York City's Central Park visionary Frederick Law Olmsted, has an outstanding rose garden and a quaint pond with a lighted fountain and Park Avenue (at State Street) signature duck house. There are free concerts on Thursday evenings in July and August. Portland, ME Saturday mornings April-November are reserved for the busy and bountiful farmers market, Phone: 207-874-8801 where one can purchase everything from fresh bread to just-picked produce. The arrival of http://www.deeringoaks.org winter ushers in the ice-skating season.

The Convention and Visitors Bureau of Greater Portland operates an information center in the historic Castle (phone 207-828-0149), a stone building originally used as a warming hut for skaters. Free.

Amusement Parks

Palace Playland Adjacent to Old Orchard's 7-mi-/11-km-long beach, this old-time resort has midway rides, weekly fireworks, arcades and food stands selling everything from fried clams to fried dough (a Old Orchard Beach (about 13 mi/21 km Maine favorite that comes topped with powdered sugar or fruit). south of Portland) Portland, ME Hours vary seasonally. See the website for details. Phone: 207-934-2001 http://www.palaceplayland.com

Funtown Splashtown USA A combination amusement park and water park that features a wooden roller coaster, carnival rides, go-karts, arcades and, of course, waterslides and wading pools. US Route 1, 774 Portland Road Saco, ME Hours vary seasonally. Funtown US$26-$34, Splashtown US$26-$31, combination of both Phone: 207-284-5139. Toll-free 800- parks US$30-$39. 878-2900 http://www.funtownsplashtownusa.com

Recreation

The most popular outdoor activities in Portland are those involving the region's greatest natural resource: the Atlantic Ocean. There are a number of fine beaches in the area—Crescent, Pine Point Beach, Scarborough and Old Orchard are the most frequented—with generally

Offshore, numerous types of fish wait to be caught: Cod, mackerel, pollack, haddock, halibut, monkfish, bluefish and striped bass are all indigenous. Dedicated recreational anglers should check the ever-changing roster of small boats at DiMillo's Marina on Commercial Street.

The Portland area also has a surprisingly large selection of golf courses. Additionally, the city's most popular recreational walking, jogging and biking route is along Baxter Boulevard (or simply The Boulevard), which rings Back Cove, the large bay on Portland's northeast side. The entire loop is a little more than 3 mi/5 km.

Nightlife

Portland's nightlife is varied, with a little of everything—dark taverns offering house-brewed ales, swanky martini lounges and even a few throbbing dance halls—but where it really shines is in its wealth of live music. It's hard not to find a new act or long-time local favorite setting up the stage on any given night, year-round. And there's no specialty there; you might hear funk, blues, metal, folk and a mix, which is unusual in such a small city. Your best bet is to walk around the Old Port or the Art District areas—chances are you'll stumble across something that interests you.

Many Portland spots combine dining and entertainment: A number of restaurants invite local musicians to entertain patrons with no cover charge, and most bars have dining areas.

Performing Arts

One of the city's main draws is the Portland Symphony Orchestra, which plays at Merrill Auditorium, in the historic City Hall on Congress Street. Merrill Auditorium is also home to Opera Maine, Portland Ovations and the Portland Ballet Company. Friends of the Kotzschmar Organ presents concerts and events featuring the auditorium's 1912 Kotzschmar organ.

Another feature of Portland—and one that surprises some people—is its abundance of theater companies. On any given night, regardless of the season, a play or performance of some sort is being staged somewhere. Among the favorites are the Lyric Music Theater, a community musical theater in South Portland, and the Portland Stage Company, which performs both new and traditional plays.

Dance

Portland Ballet Company Portland Ballet, well known in Portland and throughout the state, has been performing since 1985. Among the 25 ballets in its repertoire are such classics as Sleeping Beauty and Don 517 Forest Ave. Quixote. Portland, ME Phone: 207-772-9671 Ticket prices vary and are available from PortTix. http://www.portlandballet.org

Music

Portland Symphony Orchestra The Portland Symphony Orchestra, known widely as one of the top symphony orchestras in its class, plays at Merrill Auditorium, an elegant concert venue on Congress Street, September 20 Myrtle St. through April. Portland, ME Phone: 207-773-6128 or 207-842-0800 Monday-Saturday noon-6 pm. Tickets are available at PortTix, the Merrill Auditorium box office, (box office) and may be purchased online, by phone or in person Monday-Friday noon-6 pm. http://www.portlandsymphony.org

Page 7 of 14 Copyright ©2021 Northstar Travel Media LLC. All Rights Reserved. Portland Ovations Portland Ovations, formerly known as PCA Great Performances, hosts a series of concerts, dance performances and touring productions of Broadway shows. Merrill Auditorium, 20 Myrtle St. Portland, ME Tickets are available at PortTix, the Merrill Auditorium box office, and may be purchased online, Phone: 207-773-3150 by phone (207-842-0800) or in person Monday-Friday noon-6 pm. http://portlandovations.org

Opera

Opera Maine The company performs at Merrill Auditorium and on the road, offering such popular productions as Romeo et Juliette. Future plans include more mainstage productions at the auditorium Merrill Auditorium throughout the year and to expand outreach productions. Portland, ME Phone: 207-879-7678 (box office) Tickets are available at PortTix, the. http://www.operamaine.com

Theater

Portland Stage Company Portland Stage is one of the most respected theater groups in the state, performing a mix of new, traditional and experimental plays, with both local and visiting actors. 25-A Forest Ave. Portland, ME Performs about seven shows during the winter season October-May, with some summer Phone: 207-774-0465 performances as well. Ticket prices vary. https://www.portlandstage.org

Lyric Music Theater The Lyric Community Theater performs popular musicals at the Lyric Music Theater September- May. 176 Sawyer St. (South Portland) Portland, ME Phone: 207-799-1421 http://www.lyricmusictheater.org

Venues

SPACE Gallery This nonprofit art gallery and performance venue showcases the unconventional, hosting everything from musical shows and bands to documentary films to artists' talks and readings to 538 Congress St. dance and cabaret nights. Whatever the genre, the performances are described as Portland, ME "contemporary, emerging and unconventional." Phone: 207-828-5600

Call for event times; art gallery open Tuesday-Saturday noon-5 pm. Ticket prices range US$5- http://www.space538.org $15; gallery admission is free. Tickets can be purchased at the door on the day of the show, by phone or online (toll-free 800-838-3006;.

Spectator Sports

The sporting scene is limited but well supported in Portland, with such all-American fare as baseball, hockey and horse racing.

Portland Sea Dogs Baseball fans can catch the sport the way it used to be at the modern yet intimate Hadlock Field —every seat has a good view. The Portland Sea Dogs are a minor-league affiliate of the 271 Park Ave. Boston Red Sox. Portland, ME Phone: 207-874-9300. Toll-free 936- Monday-Friday 9 am-5 pm, Saturday 10 am-2 pm. Tickets US$4-$9. 3647 https://www.milb.com/portland

Basketball

Maine Red Claws This NBA Development League, affiliate of the Boston Celtics and Charlotte Bobcats, brings basketball to Portland in a big way. Many games sell out. 239 Park Ave. (Portland Expo) Portland, ME Season runs November-April. Phone: 207-210-6655 https://maine.gleague.nba.com

Horse Racing

Scarborough Downs All summer, horse-racing aficionados can stop by Scarborough Downs for a full program of live harness racing. 90 Payne Road Portland, ME April-December. Phone: 207-883-4331 http://www.scarboroughdowns.com

Shopping

Many people consider Maine to be L.L. Bean territory, a land of rugged, outdoorsy clothes and plaid flannel shirts. While the L.L. Bean megastore in Freeport is just 18 mi/29 km away, you'll find a variety of shopping experiences in Portland.

The abundance of local artists and craftspeople has created a lively gallery scene, which means you can find all kinds of handmade pottery, jewelry, glasswork and art in the area, much of it of very high quality. A fair number of bookstores selling used, obscure and out-of-print works also grace Portland's streets. And reflecting the city's growing sophistication, you'll also find high-end clothing, gift and antiques stores.

The prime shopping grounds are the Old Port and the Arts District around Congress Street. These areas, which are close to each other and can be covered in a single afternoon by foot, are home to the lion's share of stores.

Shopping Hours: Normal shopping hours, especially in the Old Port, are Monday-Thursday 10 am-6 pm, Friday 10 am-8 pm, Saturday 10 am-5 pm and Sunday 1-5 pm, with some extended evening hours in July and August and shortened hours in winter. It's always good to call ahead.

Itinerary

To Freeport. Maine's famous outdoor-gear retailer, L.L. Bean, can be credited with making Freeport into the town it is today. Only 20 mi/32 km north of Portland, Freeport is a mecca for off-price shoppers in search of department-store brands at discount prices. L.L. Bean has five stores in the town: its flagship store, complete with an indoor trout pond and open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year; stand-alone stores for hunting and fishing gear, the L.L. Bean Home Store, plus a store for boats and bikes (all three are also open around the clock); and an outlet nearby for low prices on past-season merchandise and seconds. The flagship store is at 95 Main St.

In addition to L.L. Bean, outdoor enthusiasts might want to visit the Patagonia, Horny Toad and North Face outlets. Shoppers will also find major clothing and shoe manufacturers, including J. Crew, Brooks Brothers, Polo Ralph Lauren, Abercrombie & Fitch, Burberry, Gap, Banana Republic, Coach, Timberland, Dooney & Bourke, Nine West and Cole Haan. Most of the stores are on Main Street, also known as Highway 1, and are housed in handsome brick and clapboard buildings, giving the strip a very New England village look. Stores are open late in the summer, many until 9 pm. The rest of the year most close by 6 pm with the exception of L.L. Bean. Take Interstate 295 north to Exit 20.

Outlets aren't all the area offers. Wolfe's Neck Woods State Park is a nature preserve with trails along Casco Bay. From Highway 1, take Bow Street to Wolfe's Neck Road (phone 207-865-4465). The world's largest globe rotates in the atrium lobby at Delorme, a high-tech map- making and global positioning systems company a few miles/kilometers south of Freeport's shopping district. A well-stocked store off the lobby sells educational toys and games as well as travel guides, maps (including detailed atlases for all U.S. states) and globes. Monday- Saturday 9 am-6 pm; Sunday mid-April through summer 9 am-5 pm. Highway 1 (Exit 17 from I-295), Yarmouth. Phone 800-642-0970.

To Kennebunkport. This coastal town and nearby Cape Porpoise offer some of the state's prettiest scenery and architecture. History is preserved in the Colonial, Queen Anne, Federal and white clapboard houses built by wealthy 18th- and 19th-century merchants and sea captains that surround the predominately brick-colonial downtown. Many of these homes have been converted into luxurious bed-and- breakfasts. Gift shops, galleries and cafes surround Dock Square at the center of town. A five-minute drive along picturesque Ocean Avenue will take you to Walker's Point, location of the summer house of former U.S. President George H.W. Bush. Don't miss the terrifically gaudy Wedding Cake house on Route 35, halfway between Kennebunk and Kennebunkport, a yellow and white Gothic-revival confection built in the 1820s. There are also several interesting museums and first-rate dining establishments in town. Take Interstate 95 south to Exit 25, Kennebunk.

To Boothbay Harbor. Few seaside towns in Maine have as much concentrated activity in one place. Only an hour up the coast from Portland, Boothbay's harbor is filled with fishing boats, whale-watching vessels and sailboats, especially in late June during the annual Windjammer Days festival. The town itself is idyllic in the summertime and offers just about everything you would expect of a tourist spot: extensive shopping, fine dining with an emphasis on freshly caught lobster, fishing trips, day and night cruises, and many snapshot opportunities. In the off-season it returns to being a quiet hamlet with a year-round population of a little more than 2,000. Take Interstate 295 to Exit 28 and follow the signs to Highway 1 going north. Get off at Highway 27 in Edgecomb and turn south. Plan to park and then hoof it around town.

To Sebago Lake. An hour's drive northwest of Portland, Sebago Lake is Maine's second-largest inland body of water (an impressive 44 sq mi/114 sq km). Its crystal-clear waters are surrounded by pine, birch and other indigenous trees, making it an idyllic natural environment. Sebago Lake State Park is a good spot for woodland hikes and has picnic areas, a sandy beach and campsites (phone 207-693-6613). For more fun on the water, head a few miles/kilometers north to Naples, where in summer you can cruise Long Lake aboard the Songo River Queen II, a 92-ft/28-m replica of a Mississippi River paddle wheeler (phone 207-693-6861; http://www.songoriverqueen.net). Take Highway 302 northwest from Portland.

To see the major attractions in and around Portland, a three-day stay is recommended, but a longer visit will allow you to see more of the Maine coast.

Day 1—Take one of the self-guided walking tours of Portland's historic houses before you head to the Old Port for lunch. Afterward, browse through the area's many shops and galleries as you make your way to the Portland Museum of Art. After dinner, attend a performance at Merrill Auditorium or a Portland Sea Dogs baseball game, or visit some of the city's pubs and cafes.

Day 2—Head out of town on Highway 77 to Cape Elizabeth and Portland Head Light. Spend the day at the beach—Crescent, Scarborough or Old Orchard. Then either return to Portland for an evening of theater at Portland Stage Company or, if it's summer, head for Brunswick and the Maine State Music Theatre.

Day 3—Drive out of Portland on Route 302, then pick up Highway 114 and drive around lovely Sebago Lake. Stay overnight in the area or return to Portland. Another option without leaving Portland is to hop on a ferry or sightseeing boat and spend the day on the water, visiting some of Casco Bay's many islands.

Day Plans These itineraries are designed to help you make the most of your brief time in Portland.

PLAN A

Victorian Echoes, Contemporary Beat

Plan to spend the day seeing Portland's treasures of the past and rummaging through some of its offbeat shops of the present. Put on your most comfortable shoes and walk to the Convention and Visitors Bureau of Greater Portland (245 Commercial St.) to purchase the walking- tour maps for the Western Promenade and State Street areas. Catch a cab up to the Western Promenade (ask the driver to drop you off at the corner of West Street).

Follow the Western Promenade tour to see some of the trophy houses of Portland's wealthiest Victorians. Then follow Congress Street to the Portland Museum of Art and visit its cafe for a light lunch before browsing through the museum's impressive collections.

When you leave the museum, follow the State Street tour past the sea captains' Federal-style homes to Victoria Mansion for a tour of this prime example of Italianate architecture and authentic furnishings.

Fortified with culture, turn left as you leave the Victoria Mansion and walk down Danforth Street to the Old Port; relax in a cafe or browse in the area's many galleries and boutiques.

PLAN B

Drive the Rocky (and Not So Rocky) Coast

This tour of the coastal areas south of the city proper requires a car. Cross the Casco Bay Bridge to South Portland. Drive south on Highway 77 into Cape Elizabeth. Take the turnoff to Shore Road, which is lined with spectacular oceanfront homes, and follow the signs to Portland Head Light and Fort Williams Park. The ramparts there are one of the best spots around to watch incoming sailing vessels. Return to Highway 77 and continue south to Two Lights State Park, where you can dine casually at The Lobster Shack, an oceanfront institution offering Maine lobster and a variety of fried seafood. Open daily late March-late October.

Continue south on Highway 77 to Crescent Beach State Park for a stroll on the sandy beach—or even a swim in the Atlantic's cold waters. Farther south on Highway 77, turn left on Black Point Road to investigate Winslow Homer's beloved Prout's Neck and the spectacular Cliff Walk.

Backtrack on Highway 207 to the intersection with Highway 9, where you'll turn left and continue 2 mi/3 km until Highway 9 veers left again onto Pine Point Road. That will take you to the Scarborough Marsh Nature Center, where you can spend the rest of the afternoon in a canoe with binoculars looking for songbirds. Be sure to take sunscreen and insect repellent.

Return to Portland easily on Highway 1.

Portland is one of the best cities in New England for inventive meals drawn from outstanding local fish, meat, cheese and produce. Chefs have cultivated strong relationships with the state's many organic growers and artisanal food producers—and even professional foragers who gather such foods as wild mushrooms and fiddleheads, an edible fern available in early spring. Whether you opt for an intimate bistro or something more upscale, you'll be encouraged to enjoy a relaxing evening at relatively reasonable prices.

Almost every restaurant makes good use of the bounty of fresh seafood available in this busy commercial fishing port. In addition to the region's renowned lobsters, local fishermen bring in large catches of haddock and halibut. Salmon, smelt, mussels, clams and Maine peekytoe crab are also farmed extensively along the Maine coast. Establishments specializing in seafood run the gamut from casual shacks to elegant linen tablecloth affairs. Also look for a variety of international cuisines such as Japanese, Thai, Indian and Irish. Several restaurants are known for their vegetarian menus.

The Old Port, Commercial Street (the waterfront) and the Arts District are all populated with restaurants. Mainers tend to dine early, with restaurants starting to fill by 6 pm. The crowds thin out after 8 pm, except on weekends. It's always a good idea to call ahead for reservations, especially during the summer, and keep in mind that many of Portland's restaurants close on Monday.

Expect to pay within these guidelines for a meal for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than US$10; $$ = US$10-$20; $$$ = US$21-$50; $$$$ = more than US$50.

Security Health You should always check with BCBS to determine if hospitals and all medical providers are innetwork prior to treatment.

Disabled Advisory

Nearly all of the hotels and motels in Portland have been brought up to the standards set by the Americans With Disabilities Act, but the older properties have been grandfathered because of their historic nature. Smaller inns and bed-and-breakfasts range in their capabilities to serve disabled guests. There is handicapped access to public buildings and major museums, and on public transportation. Major streets in the Old Port and downtown have curb cuts, and they are being added on side streets in those areas.

Inquiries about transportation and equipment may be directed to Alpha One, 127 Main St., South Portland. Phone 207-767-2189. Toll-free 800-640-7200. The TTY number is 207-767-5387. Toll-free 866-906-5375. http://www.alphaonenow.org.

Additional information can be obtained by contacting the Disability Rights Center of Maine. Toll-free 800-452-1948.

Facts Dos & Don'ts

Don't go to Portland without a light sweater. Even in the middle of summer, cool days are to be expected, especially if it's raining. Throw in a light sea breeze funneling down the cobblestoned streets of the Old Port, and you may feel downright chilly.

Do venture out of the Old Port. Though the historic area has much to offer with its lovely shops, great food and the waterfront, be sure to visit some outlying areas, such as the beaches along the Atlantic Coast.

Page 12 of 14 Copyright ©2021 Northstar Travel Media LLC. All Rights Reserved. Don't let winter's cold and snow deter you. In fact, the Old Port is at its most charming and picturesque around Christmas. The historic brick buildings, handsome shop windows, cobblestoned streets and gas street lamps make for a Dickensian experience. The city provides free horse-and-carriage rides during the holiday season, an ideal and enchanting way to see the Old Port and surrounds.

Do plan to be out and about early at least one morning of your stay. Buy a cup of coffee and morning bun from Standard Baking Co., then sit and watch gulls fly over the harbor.

Don't be surprised to find that Mainers are friendly and helpful, despite a reputation for New England reserve.

Do expect to hear words with "ar" pronounced differently. The Maine accent uses a very broad "a" and de-emphasizes "r," so that "car" sounds like "cah" and "park" sounds like "pahk."

Don't be surprised to hear French spoken at Portland-area beach resorts—many French Canadians vacation there, as it has the closest saltwater beaches to Montreal.

Do take a ride on one of the Casco Bay ferry boats to visit an island community, especially if you're traveling primarily by land. Life on the offshore islands is lived at a different tempo.

Don't look for liquor stores in Maine, where alcohol by the bottle is sold primarily in supermarkets.

Weather

Portland's weather, like most of Maine's, is highly changeable. Summer is cool and comfortable (55-78 F/12-25 C), with the exception of an occasional humid day that reaches 90 F/32 C. Autumn is clear and crisp (37-69 F/3-20 C), and winter is cold (11-34 F/-13-1 C), with plenty of snow, but roads are plowed quickly. Snowfall averages about 66 in/168 cm per year, with frequent thaws. Most attractions are open during summer and early fall. Breezes blowing off the ocean can be cool, particularly during fall evenings.

What to Wear

Casual, comfortable clothes are the rule in Portland. You may want to dress up a bit for a few of the more formal restaurants, although it's not required. The Labrador Current laps at the edges of Casco Bay, so temperatures on or near the water rarely get very warm. Even in midsummer, you may welcome a jacket or sweater in the evening.

The weather in the summer is usually comfortable, but it can get hot and humid, especially inland. Shorts and short-sleeve shirts are advised for men; shorts, capris and short-sleeve shirts are fine for women. Hats, sunscreen and sunglasses are highly recommended to protect you from the sun. Even on a cloudy day, light bouncing off the water can cause a sunburn.

Business dress in Portland is increasingly relaxed and fashion-forward, although some industries are still rather conservative. Those traveling for pleasure will have an easier time matching their attire to the weather. A dress or sportcoat will serve you well if your plans include some of the finer restaurants or fine-arts performances.

Transportation

Despite some steep grades, Portland is relatively compact and best suited to walking. In fact, the city is a walker's paradise: It's easy to make your way through the distinctive neighborhoods, especially if you get one of several available walking-tour maps (check with the Convention and Visitors Bureau). Because the Waterfront, the Old Port and the Arts District are all adjacent, you can simply park your car for the day and stroll among them.

If you need to get to more distant parts of town, or even out of the city limits, a car is your best option. Many car-rental agencies have facilities at the airport. Although the city does have a public bus system, it's unlikely that you'll need to use it. Long-distance bus lines connect Portland with other points in Maine and New Hampshire, and Amtrak's popular Downeaster train service operates daily to Boston.

Events Calendar

Despite its small size, Portland offers a respectable array of cultural events. The Portland Symphony, Portland Opera and Portland Ballet are

Page 13 of 14 Copyright ©2021 Northstar Travel Media LLC. All Rights Reserved. all worthy of the city's name and hold well-received performances during the year. Big-ticket Broadway shows are regularly presented through the PCA Great Performances series, and more highbrow theater productions are staged by such local drama troupes as the Portland Stage Company.

Although the city lacks major sports teams, it does host top-notch minor-league hockey (the Pirates), baseball (the Sea Dogs) and basketball (the Red Claws). Auto traffic is blocked during the annual Old Port Festival, held in early June, to make room for street performers, children's carnival rides, craft and food vendors, and several open-air stages for live music. Harvest on the Harbor, Maine's food and wine extravaganza, takes over Ocean Gateway on the waterfront each October, celebrating the chefs, food and wine that have made Maine a culinary destination.

For detailed information about upcoming events in the Portland area, contact the Convention and Visitors Bureau of Greater Portland. Phone 207-772-5800 or 207-772-4994. http://www.visitportland.com.

Another good resource is the nonprofit group known as Portland's Downtown District. 94 Free St., Portland. Phone 207-772-6828. http://www.portlandmaine.com.

To call any of the numbers listed in this calendar from outside the U.S. or Canada, you must first dial your country's international access code, followed by the U.S. country code, 1.

Information in this calendar is subject to change and should be confirmed.