04_595881 ch01.qxd 6/28/06 9:57 PM Page 1 Chapter 1 Taking in the Scenery Awesome Vistas . 2 Seven Beautiful Bridges . 12 Drives . 20 Train Rides . 32 Boat Rides . 41 COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL Sequoia National Park. 04_595881 ch01.qxd 6/28/06 9:57 PM Page 2 TAKING IN THE SCENERY Awesome Vistas 1 Monument Valley The Iconic Wild West Landscape Ages 6 & up • Kayenta, Arizona, USA WHEN MOST OF US THINK of the American visits backcountry areas that are other- West, this is what clicks into our mental wise off-limits to visitors, including close- Viewmasters: A vast, flat sagebrush plain ups of several natural arches and with huge sandstone spires thrusting to Ancient Puebloan petroglyphs.) the sky like the crabbed fingers of a Sticking to the Valley Drive takes primeval Mother Earth clutching for the you to 11 scenic overlooks, once-in-a- heavens. Ever since movie director John lifetime photo ops with those incredible Ford first started shooting westerns here sandstone buttes for backdrop. Often in the 1930s, this landscape has felt famil- Navajos sell jewelry and other crafts at iar to millions who have never set foot the viewing areas, or even pose on horse- here. We’ve all seen it on the big screen, back to add local color to your snapshots but oh, what a difference to see it in real (a tip will be expected). life. John Wayne—John Ford’s favorite lead- If you possibly can, time your visit to ing cowboy—roamed these scrublands include sunset—as the sheer walls of on horseback, and seeing it from a West- these monoliths capture the light of the ern saddle does seem like the thing to do. setting sun, they truly seem to catch fire. Local outfitters run everything from a There are three ways to tour the area, guided 1-hour trail ride to an overnight which is also a Navajo reservation: driving campout. One of the most comprehen- the 17-mile Valley Drive; hiking with a sive tour companies (jeeps, hikes, horses, guide; or on horseback. Guides are usu- you name it) is Sacred Monument Tours ally local Navajos, born and bred to this (& 435/727-3218; www.monumentvalley. barren landscape. If you drive, you can net), but plenty of other operators can be take your own car; but it is a rocky, rutted booked from the visitor center. Although dirt road, so I personally would opt for a most of the park lies in Arizona, it is right jeep or van tour. (Hold out for one that on the state border, and you enter it from Utah. Just outside the park, Goulding’s Museum and Trading Post is furnished as it was in the 1920s and 1930s when the moviemakers first discovered the area; there are also displays about the many films that were shot here. Be sure to get a map so the kids can learn the eccentric rock formations’ names—imaginative names like The Mittens, Three Sisters, Camel Butte, El- ephant Butte, the Thumb, and Totem Pole. And as you stare at them, take an extra moment to imagine the forces of nature that have sculpted the soft desert stone into these incredible shapes. It’s an only-in-America panorama that the kids Monument Valley. won’t ever forget. 2 04_595881 ch01.qxd 6/28/06 9:57 PM Page 3 THE REDWOOD FORESTS OF CALIFORNIA ⁉ U.S. 163, 30 miles north of Kayenta Nation, U.S. 160, Kayenta, AZ (& 800/ (& 435/727-5870; www.monumentvalley HAMPTON or 928/697-3170; www. online.com). hampton-inn.com). ( Flagstaff Pulliam, 200 miles. WHY THEY’LL THANK YOU: Just like L $$$ Goulding’s Lodge, Monument the movies—only more so. Valley, UT (& 435/727-3231; www. gouldings.com). $$ Hampton Inn-Navajo Awesome Vistas 2 The Redwood Forests of California All ages • Crescent City, California, USA IT’S HARD TO EXPLAIN the feeling you get in Environmentalists bemoan the tacky the old-growth forests of Redwood attractions along this route, but young- National and State Parks. Everything sters love ’em—from south to north, hol- seems big, misty, and primeval—flowering low Chimney Tree, where J. R. R. bushes cover the ground, 10-foot-tall ferns Tolkien’s Hobbit is rumored to live; One- line the creeks, and the smells are rich and Log House, a small dwelling built inside a musty. It’s so Jurassic Park you half expect log; and the Shrine Drive-Thru Tree. to turn the corner and see a dinosaur. More dignified landmarks include The scientific name for these massive Founders Grove, honoring those who conifers is Sequoia sempervirens, cousins started the Save the Redwoods League in of the giant sequoias (see Sequoia 1918; and the 950-year-old Immortal National Park ). Sheathed in rough red- Tree. Don’t settle for looking at all this dish bark, miraculously fire-resistant, their out your car window—from many parking stout straight trunks shoot up 100 feet or areas you can ramble on short loop trails more before a canopy of branches into awesome redwood groves. begins; they often reach a total height of The other cluster of parks begins more than 300 feet. Among the planet’s another 100 miles or so farther north, most ancient individuals—the oldest threaded along U.S. Highway 101. The dated coast redwood is more than 2,200 most scenic drive parallels 101, along the years old—they only grow in temperate Newton B. Drury Scenic Parkway, rainforests, meaning nowhere but the passing through redwood groves and U.S. Pacific Coast. In 1968, the federal meadows where Roosevelt elk graze, government created Redwood National and Coastal Drive, which has grand Park (nowadays combined with three views of the Pacific. But again, the truly state redwood parks) to protect what’s spine-tingling experience requires getting left of this seriously endangered species. out and hiking through these soaring The relative isolation of this stretch of perpendicular woods. Pick up a park map coast helped the forests survive intact, to find your way to Tall Trees Trail, a 1 but it also makes for a long drive. 3 ⁄4-mile round-trip to a 600-year-old tree The most spectacular display is along often touted as the world’s tallest (get a the Avenue of the Giants, a 33-mile permit at the Redwood Information Cen- stretch of U.S. 101 through the ter in Orick); the self-guided mile-long Humboldt Redwoods State Park (& 707/ Lady Bird Johnson Grove Loop; the 946-2263; www.humboldtredwoods.org). short, very popular Fern Canyon Trail; 3 04_595881 ch01.qxd 6/28/06 9:57 PM Page 4 TAKING IN THE SCENERY or, for the littlest hikers, the quarter-mile- (& 707/464-2137; www.curlyredwood long Big Tree Trail, a paved trail leading lodge.com). $$$ Lost Whale Bed & Break- to—what else?—a big tree. fast, 3452 Patrick’s Point Dr., Trinidad (& 800/677-7859 or 707/677-3425; ⁉ 1111 Second St. (& 707/464-6101, ext. www.lostwhaleinn.com). 5064; www.nps.gov/redw). WHY THEY’LL THANK YOU: Seeing the ( Crescent City. redwoods before they’re gone. L $ Curly Redwood Lodge, 701 Red- wood Hwy. S. (U.S. 101), Crescent City Awesome Vistas 3 Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks Giant Trees of the Sierras All ages • Visalia & Fresno, California, USA ONLY 200 MILES BY ROAD from often-overrun side trip. The tree has been used for shel- Yosemite National Park , Sequoia and ter for more than 100 years and is tall Kings Canyon national parks still feel like enough inside that you can walk through untrammeled wilderness. Only one road, without bending over. In Giant Forest, the Generals Highway, loops through the awesome General Sherman Tree is the area, and no road traverses the Sierra here. High-altitude hiking and backpacking are what these parks are really all about; some 700 miles of trails traverse this ter- rain of snowcapped Sierra Nevada peaks (including Mount Whitney, which at 14,494 ft. is the highest point in the lower 48 states), high-country lakes, and alpine meadows. For families, though, there’s one main attraction: the largest groves of giant sequoias in the Sierra Nevada. Though they are two separate parks, Sequoia and Kings Canyon are contiguous and managed jointly from the park headquarters at Ash Mountain—you hardly know when you’re leaving one and entering the other. Of the 75 or so groves of giant sequoias in the parks, the two most convenient to visit are Grant Grove (in Kings Canyon near the Big Stump park entrance), and Giant Forest (in Sequoia, 16 miles from the Ash Mountain entrance). In Grant Grove, a 100-foot walk through the hollow trunk of the Sequoia National Park. Fallen Monarch makes a fascinating 4 04_595881 ch01.qxd 6/28/06 9:57 PM Page 5 THE COLUMBIA RIVER GORGE considered the largest living thing in the walls rising thousands of feet above the world; single branches of this monster river. are more than 7 feet thick. Other trees in ⁉ the grove (each of them saddled with Ash Mountain entrance, CA 198 from names like General Lee or Lincoln) are Visalia. Big Stump entrance, 180 from nearly as large, creating an overall effect Fresno, CA (& 559/565-3341; www.nps. of massive majesty. Giant Grove has gov/seki, www.sequoia-kingscanyon.com, or some 40 miles of intersecting footpaths www.visitsequoia.com). to wander; the 6-mile Trail of the ( Fresno-Yosemite, 53 miles. Sequoias will take you to the grove’s far eastern end, where you’ll find some of L $ Dorst Campground, in Sequoia the finest trees.