The Western Australian Historical Society (1II.Corporated) JOURNAL and PROCEEDINGS Vol

The Western Australian Historical Society (1II.COrporated) JOURNAL AND PROCEEDINGS Vol. I.] 1928 [Part III.

The Seciety does not hold itself responsible for statements made or opinions expressed by authors of the papers published in this journal.

EARLY SOCIAL LIFE AND FASHIONS By l\lrs.. E. D. OOWAN [Read before the Society, April 27. 19!8]

SOCIAL LIFE Britons, wheresoever their flag flies, follow with much fidelity-suitable or unsuitable-the social cus­ toms of the land from which they come, and in this State of Western Australia were no exception to that rule. For, after flying the flag of the Homeland at South Frernantle, the pioneers duly proceeded to lay the foundation stone of the city of Perth; certainly the method adopted was unique, and perhaps, one may ven­ ture to say, prophetic of their attitude and that of their descendants for so many years to the "forestry" ques­ tion. Then came the publication of a newspaper in Octo­ ber of the same year. Nailed to a gum tree to ensure publicity, and strictly limited as to its issue, it shows the trend of mind of our British ancestors. Quite early in life one learnt from old pioneers that furniture of the best type-such things as pianos, har­ moniums, plate (much of it old Sheffield), pictures, china, silver spoons and forks, cutlery, silver-mounted harness, etc.-lay, buried by the drifting sand hills, near Woodman's Point, and Rockingham. Impassable sandy tracks made it impossible to cart them even to Fremantle much less to Perth, Guildford or the Swan. We find such functions as Governors' levees were held (impromptu on the first occasion), vide the humour­ ous description given by Dr. Wilson in his book. Later, however, and until Government House was erected, the Governor appears to have received under the shade of a 2 The Western An.trallan Historical Society Early Sod&l Life and Fashions 3 banksia tree his visitors struggling through what was probably "a thorny brake" composed of the prickly litt.le the prophetic instinct as regards future State finance, "acacia pulchella," and other shrubs, so abundant m though correct enough for that vanished period:- those earlytimes. "No Tithes and no Taxes we now have to pay. And our Geese are all Swans, as some witty folk say. Dancing Then we live without trouble or stealth, Sirs. Our currency's all sterling wealth, Sirs. Dancing was a favourite amusement. Mr. Th?mas So here's to our Governor's health, Sirs. Brown mentionsin the 'forties in a letter a much-enjoyed And Western Australia for me." dance given by the Commandant of the Forces (Colonel Though according to a Dr. Collie, who was first at Bruce) who was afterwards Acting G?vernor: The l~te Albany and afterwards at Perth, there was a scarcity Mr. C. A.. Manning has leftus also an )nterestlng~escnp­ of women in 1832-33-he complains that "all are out of tion of a "Freemasons' Ball" which was heldsin Fre­ patience at the delayed arrival of the Governor (who mantle in 1860. ha~ been visiting England) and the thousands of young In his diary dated Perth, September' 3, 1831, the ladles he was to brmg out"-Dr. Ogle in 1839 (page 83 Advocate-General (Mr. G. F. Moore) thus describes of his book) states:- the first big ball at Government House: - "I~ point of Society the Colony stands pre-eminent. "All the world here is going to the ball. . I must tell you The higher order consists of families well-born and all about the great doings since the last entry in my logbook well-educated; many of them men of rank in the Army Yesterday I came down here for our market, and meeting of the Agricultural Society, and for the Gov~rnor.'s ba:lI. The brig had and Navy. The elegancies of life are sedulously culti­ just arrived, bringing the first Indian Invalid to our shores vated by them and constitute a distinguished feature of (Quartermaster-General Colonel Hanson) and also Lord F. Beau­ their intercou.rs~. With taste and judgment they have clerk All Perth was alive. Upwards of fifty sat down to the formed associations corresponding with similar estab­ agricultural dinner at which we had (as honorary members), lishments in their native country, and which tend to Lord F. Beauclerk, Colonel Hanson, and Captain Parker, R.N. And at this dinner a memorial to the Home Government was read accumulate and dispense the best information. In the and approved of. It is now in course of signature. and will soon sequel, it will be necessary to refer to their agricultural be sent home. commercial, botanical and literary institutions as their "In the evening. at' the Governor's house, we had 180 lad.i~s records unquestionably contain the best infor~ation on and gentlemen .. '. The ball was kept up with the greatest spirrt subjects connected with the Colony. The same accom­ until six in the morning, and dancing almost without interval­ plishments which h~re (in England) add so great a contre dances, quadrilles, Spanish dances, and gallopades. I never before witnessed such gaiety at a ball, nor ever before charm to female society are made part of the education danced so much in one night. Four rooms and an arcade were there; and music, drawing and general information are all filled and, connected with the verandah, a superb tent was matters of routine. All writers agree in their account fitted up, decorated and festooned with naval flags, and in this of the moral courage, and unmurmuring perseverance we had supper-an elegant and abundant one. The igentlemen under great difficulties of the women who encountered from India were astonished, for. they had heard the most gloomy reports; and the invalid confessed that when coming ashore he the hardships entailed on the earliest settlers' and all had been considering with the captain the expediency of sending agree equally in the great influence their noble' and en­ some provisions from the ship as a preventative against starva­ dearing conduct. has, and must continue to have on the tion. His amazement at seeing ample supplies of butter, eggs, community at .large.; and all are lavish in their' praises vegetables, poultry and butcher's meat may be guessed at. He of the manner 10 which they have assumed their new du­ purchased freely and liberally; has rented a house for some time and is now recovering; indeed, he was actually frolicksome all ties, without derogating from the habits and manners the evening." of their former life in this country." Songs at vice-regal entertainments, appear to have A Colonial Home of 1842 been interspersed. I quote there£or~ part of a verse from one composed-as well as silrig--;--by Mr. Moore A colonia! home of 1~42 is. interestingly described himself at this evening as it indicates that his was not by Mrs. G. Eliot (nee LOUIsa Clifton) in a letter to her brother Waller in England:- The 'Ve!!otern Am.truJi.... Hi.torkal Society Ea.rly SociRI Life 8IIld Fashlons "I am sitting in our drawing room (so-called) which "A Doct,~r Barry's lectures on "The Poets" and is a snug little room opening on to the verandah, and Astro?o.~y ar~ met,ltion~d in a le tter of my grandfather from the open door of which and window near it, I com­ Brov:n s as having filled In (during a visit to Perth) two mand as I sit the most lovely view you can imagine. evemn~s,". "!h;, Poets" being good, but the other "an The hill slopes very steeply down from the edge of the awful infliction ; after which he and Mr. Fred. Witte­ verandah. All round the foot, on its sides, and on the noorn hIed. to the latter's home, and sought to forget it flat right down to the estuary's mouth, are trees and u~der the Influence of a bread and cheese supper, diluted shrubs. The blue waters of Koombana Bay beyond, WIth brandy and water. and the rugged sandy coast stretching into the far ?is­ Card parties were frequent, whist, vingt-et-un, Pic­ tance give us a sea horizon which, though not extensive, quet, bac.k-gammon, draughts and cribbage, as well as is most lovely The walls of our sitting roan:" are chess, being the favorite ~ames. These would appear whitewashed with a little pink colour in it. The pointed ~o have been needed to lighten the intellectual strain thatched roof is its ceiling; a boarded floor (no carpet, Imposed. on tho~e belonging to the reading circles and of course), a sofa under the front window covered with thus relIeve their mental digestion or indigestion.' a green chintz, and green window curtains; a rug of red drugget, a fireplace for wood, and a ~ahoga~y mantle­ , Dinner parties were. frequently given by the early piece. Between the fireplace and window IS a large pIOneers, the table. appomtmenrs in many homes being mahogany cheffonier, with three rows of books, and a very h~ndsome OWIng to the beautiful china, plate and table silver possessed by so many of them L' t large cupboard underneath; four wicker arm-chairs, and dl . k . us re a table with a brown and crimson cover in the centre can e StlC. s, candelab~a, .and chandeliers lit the rooms, of the apartment-this is the portrait of our sitting kerosene all and.electnc light being, of course, unheard room. A door nearly opposite the fireplace leads into of. ,The gutter~ng of the candles was, however, often our bedroom. A door opposite the front door opens on a nUIsance,. espe cially when dancing, as they had to then to the back verandah and leads to the kitchen, outhouses, by candle-lIght. ' etc. My bedroom is very small but large enough to Miss Clifton. in her diary mentions a dinner given contain my Somerset House four post bedstead, which by Mr. :Wall~r Clifton, of Australind, to the workers em­ father kindly gave us, and with white furniture looks ployed In building the first edifice erected at Australind very nice and most luxurious in this quarter of the In May, 1841. About 40 sat down, "the chief carpenter globe. A dressing table, chest of drawers, and ma­ at t~e h,;ad of the table, and the thatcher at the other hogany washstand complete the furniture of this cottage end. T~e menu consisted of kangaroo tail sou room. My little boudoir containing all my concerns kangaroo pies and st.eaks, pork, beef, pease pudding, su~t leads from it. Then George has a little dressing room pUddlt,lg:s, a table being specially made for the occasion. detached from our bedroom. Andrew Stirling (the No spirrts were a.llo:ved, but Colonial beer and Barclay's cousin) has a little room corresponding to George's, and porter were the liquid refreshments supplied. The meal the one corresponding to my boudoir is a spare room. b~gan at three In the afternoon and lasted till ten at I have been minute in describing it that you may form mg~t, Solos and choruses were sung, some of the men some idea of the best colonial residence in the district." havmg remarkably fine voices." A feature making for social intercourse in those _. The poorest cottages had in them often beautiful early times was that of reading circles where the perusal cnl!1a, large and small lustre jugs, cups and saucers of of books such as Shakespeare, the Iliad and Odyssey, delIghtf!11 designs, china dogs (so valuable now) and Macaulay's English History, Burder's Sermons, Paley's mtere~tIng curios of various kinds. Especially 'were Christian Evidences, and Baxter's Sermons caused lively the~e In the homes of the pensioner-soldier families from argument, as also did the discussion of the contents of Indl~, many of whom had been through the Indian the Athenaeum, Chamber's Journal, London Society, ~utJ~y. Unfortunately, the china was not valued and and other magazines. httle IS left to-day. ' The \V"sl;en .after startmg, the run, was more amusing than they were in holes already! things do wear out faster edifying. Such was the ftrst race meeting held in in this country a great deal than they do in England." Western Australia. One can only hope it did not mean for any long interval sheetless beds! Fashions for Women It is interesting to learn that as early as 1831 Mr. The First Race Meeting Fletcher Moore wrote "As to the ladies I Suppose you h.ave been mi~taking them for Hottentot dames, and con­ Another inheritance from their ancestors in the Sider them SUitably apparelled in Lindsay-Woolsey, or in Homeland was the love of racing, whole families taking drugget drest at l3d. per yard, but our fair ones of the the day out asia picnic, and the riders of the horses upper gr~de are of a very different type : Yet, alas! I being most commonly their gentlemen owners. The fa.nn.at enumerate any. of the thousand articles they may first gathering of this kind took place on the Downs Wish for. ... Pray interest yourself to have a well­ near Fremantle on October 2, 1833, and is described in selected cargo sent especially to them." the "Gazette" of those days. A Captain Taylor, of the VI e<:'1ingsbeing, of course, most important the "Helen," having imported some Timor ponies, aided by a description of that of Miss Louisa Clifton to, Mr G Mr. C. Smith and Mr. J. Weevel, were the organisers; Eliot, in June, 1842, from her own pen and n~ver 'yet and the daily newspaper says "It was the nearest they published, seems fitting:- ' could get in those primitive turf days to the scenes on the green heaths of Old England." The first race was . "The last week at home was one of great bustle for ponies, the stake being a subscription purse of five an:' excrternent ... Andrew, Mr. Northey and Mr. Wool­ sovereigns, and the starters were Captain McDermott's lastoncame,. upon Tu~sday. Could you have seen 'the Dandy, Captain Taylor's two nominations (Doctor and custard-rnaking, plann~ng the table, etc., you would have Teager), Mr. Leeder's Bob, Mr. Solomon's Tinker, Mr. been~mus~d. The n~ght was very stormy; such thun­ Dowing's Jack Mackako, and Mr. Sampson's strangeiy­ d~r, hghtmng' and ram as would surprise you ...I named More in Sorrow than Anger. The "Gazette" did not expec~ th~ event of the day could possibly take place. The Jarring of the elements, had I felt able to 8 The lV_tern An8tralia.n H1storica.l lS_lety F,iarty S001a1 Life and' Fa8htons II sleep, would have chased repose away: Tire~ and On reading the foregoing we realise how fortunate wearied I rose. A broken pane of glass m my window Mr. Eliot was in his selection of a bride.. and perhaps admitted the piercing wind, and I dressed shivering with you will query in your mind as I have done, how a mo­ cold and nervousness, not believing the ceremony could dern one would take such an experience on her wedding take place.... Thanks to the dear girls and kind friends, day. A going away ride of ten miles taking three hours, I was beautifully dressed in a white merino dress, made in rain, wind, and lightning, was surely a fair test of even by Mrs. Williams, a white satin bonnet and most elega~t a pioneering disposition. fall (veil), Mary's needlework, and a real~y splendid embossed white China crepe shawl, the gift of dear Riding Habits George, and white satin shoes made in A!1stralind! The Apropos Mrs. Eliot's. riding costume: ordinary habits same orange flowers Eleanor and Chrissy wore, and Were then made with very long and full skirts, and some­ collar and cuffs, Ellen's tasteful work. times a bodice of cambric just like a modern blouse, with sleeves full to the elbows and tight thence to the "Papa conducted me to the drawing room, and thence wrist. High straw hats slightly to one side were worn to the survey room, which was carpeted with sailcloth with a long veil of either brown, blue or green gauze for the occasion and furnished with table, cushions, etc. floating behind. Later, stiff cloth bodices to match George, with Andrew and Augustus Northey, received pointed back and front were preferred and felt or beaver us there. Rachel and the two other little girls dressed hats (like modified men's bell-toppers) became the in blue dresses and straw bonnets looked lovely. We fashion. Frilled white petticoats, and frillier "undies" walked back buffeting with the wind to our' own draw­ were worn underneath. ing room and there received almost all the settle~ent. Mrs. Thos. Brown, in the account of her ride over­ After partaking of an excellent breakfast I r~ttr(~d, changed my white dress for a green cloth habit and land to Geraldton, mentions a riding bonnet she made cap of the same, veil, etc. Having taken leave of dear­ and wore with comfort to herself, though her son com­ plained that "Mama's large bonnet, glistening in the sun, est Mama and father, returned to the drawing room, at was enough to frighten anything," it having, according the door of which our horses were waiting. to him, scared a kangaroo he was trying to shoot. "We mounted and left amid loud cheers and every Other riding costumes of that period, we are told on mark of interest, which George acknowledged by bow­ the authority of a Miss Mary Abbott, writing lately in a ing; and proceeded on our long, cold ride on the. never­ magazine, were those worn by women in France when to-be-forgotten Koombana-road. The ford being too hunting the stag, and consisted of the three-cornered deep, a boat was waiting at Collie, and two men ferried hat and the wide skirted habit and coat of the time of us across; the horses, being ridden through, nearly had Louis XIV. She says: "Gone, too, are the floating to swim. A shower overtook us as we landed, and so veil, with the stream-like habit, and short swallow tail tempestuous was the wind we were obliged to shelter coat donned by Queen Victoria when riding with Lord for some time under some thick trees and bushes. I Melbourne. Yet with all the modern Diana's craze for wish you could have seen us as we stood shivering and a. slim silhouette, one feels she would never do what the talking over our strange position. Saddling our horses Empress' of Austria did, have her habit sewn over her we re-mounted and were almost blown away as we bare flesh." wound along the shore of the estuary We arrived Brocades, damasks and moire-antique silks were at home (on the Preston) just at dark. It is a ride -much patronised by young and old, though tarlatan and of ten miles, and took us nearly three hours. A blazing a sort of crape material not unlike the present time chif­ fire awaited us though George's housekeeper had hardly fons and georgettes were used as well for young people's expected us, and we felt thankful under all the circum­ evening frocks trimmed with either lace or ruchings of stances at having been favoured with so prosperous and the same material. The heavier fabrics were mostly comparatively not unpleasant journey." handed tin from mothers: to their daughters, and much ElLrly Social Life WIld FashIon. 11 10 The 'WesternAustrlllilLn Historical Society prized by the recipients owing to their splendid wearing Sir Edward Stone tells us clogs were required in his quality. Many of these daughters and grand-da;ughters, youthful days "because as clay was the usual material for however, now regret their unwisdom in not keepmg them footpaths, the consequence was that wet weather made as heirlooms, for the materials were woven direct from them regular quagmires," so no doubt that is why the the cocoons of the silkworm, and not, as is the case now, ungraceful articles were used. The neatly heeled shoes mixed with ground glass or chemical, nor were they en­ ~nd flesh coloured stockings of the present time are tirely artificial, as is so often the products of to-day. mdeed a contrast. White cotton, or black stockings were the mode, sometimes silk, and later a deep cream You will remember that Thackeray in one of his coloured kind (cotton) known as "Balbriggan" were novels mentions a lady, who wore a handsome India favoured. In the 'sixties stripes were to be seen, and shawl over a rich and wide silk dress. She carried a kept in fashion for about ten years. blue silk parasol with a yellow silk lining, and on ~er head a bonnet "trimmed with a profusion of red poppIes: Gloves of several varieties were fashionable, some blue bells .and ears of corn." Breadth in the skirt, and elbow length, some four-button, edged with lace or quantity as to bonnet decoration appears to have been ruching, others being laced to the top of the arm to a hall-mark of fashion, and more desired than good ensure its shapeliness. Lace mittens, either black or taste. cream, were also worn at either evening or day functions. Children were miniatures of their elders, and wore the The Vogue of the "Sack" same frilled cambric trousers, short wide petticoats and A kind of coat called a "Sack" was worn' by either similar overdresses. Quaint as the effect was, it cannot men or women, hanging loosely from the shoulders. be said to have been either pretty or childlike in effect, Leg of mutton sleeves also came in about 1830 with mo­ ,as is their clothing now. derately full skirts, stiffened out by petticoats under­ Paisley, India, Norwich and Crayford shawls were a neath. These sleeves were tremendously full at the distinct feature of the period. top near the shoulder and upper part of the arm, but tight from elbow to wrist, and were succeeded by Hoops t~e sleeves "en pagode," tight at the top and hanging at Having gone out for a hundred years, hoops were wrists with lace under-sleeves. These looked, It IS said, revived from about 1850 to 1860. The correct method rather nice, but were troublesome, owing to the fact that of making was as follows: "Four narrow steels covered it was almost impossible to keep them from dipping into with tape run into a calico slip; the steel nearest the the teacups, gravy bowls and food such as jam, custard, waist should be four nails [a term of measurement de­ cream or butter. Flounces from 15 to 17 inches deep noting 2t inches] down from it, and must be one yard adorned the wide skirts till about 1840; rosettes and and three-quarters in length; the other three steels each long dangling ribbons being newer and further fashion­ 2t yards in length must be placed at intervals, the first able trimmings. six nails from the upper steel, and the other two must Just to bring before you some of the crudities in have two nails between each, the first of these two be­ colour mixtures in 1837, I must mention another dress ing two nails below the second steel. None must meet described at that time. "She wore a blue satin robe, a in front except the one nearest the waist." black-violet mantle (lined with blue satin) and trimmed Crinolines were really complete petticoats into with black lace, topped with an emerald green hat trim­ which were inserted the hoops. They were generally med with blonde lace, pink roses and ribbons and worn under the heavy types of dress, those made of silk feathers." (grosegrain), moire antique, brocade, satin, etc. Lighter Mr. Ogle, in 1839, advised ladies to bring out with them materials such as tarlatan, muslin and gauze were given "green veils and parasols, Dunstable bonnets, gauzes, the desired amplification by wearing underneath some­ French clogs, boots. well-made shoes, and all linens." times as many as 14 petticoats heavily stiffened. 12 Tile \Vestern AllstraJian Historical Society Early Socl..ILife and FaslIiolJ$ -----~13 The crinoline finally disappeared here about 1868, made with a dOUble. skirt, bodice with a v-shaped vest, and except for "Old Time Balls" we may be surenowo­ and bell sleeves Wlt~ inner sleeves at the wrist (en man desires its revival. About 1865 the .fashion crept pagode). Her wedding bonnet was bought at the shop in -of wearing over two or more petticoats' and other of a well. known family in the State. The young girls garments, a skirt and bodice of white satin, one of net, of t~at t irne .wore coloured cottons (or prints), chalys, one of plain tarlatan, and lastly, the dress skirt itself poplins and silks, well ruched and frilled. Sometimes a tulle ball dress It was about 1870 that bustles came in and were would have six skirts of tulle over the satin foundation worl?- under the skirt at the back. They were in to give the desired "bouffant" effect. Thus dresses fashIOn. abou~ ten years, with heavily trimmed bodices tbokfrom 16 to 20 yards of material' to make them. a~d s~lrts ":'Ith narrow flouncings to the waist, plush Later, however. the quantity was reduced to 11 or 12 trrmming being a popular adjunct. yards. Sometimes stiff petticoats of a horsehair ma­ terial were used, and modified trains were, worn in the Boots street and for balls. Ordinary house dresses were al­ Elastic side boots were worn by men and women ways short. fr?m 1~29 to 1880, some being laced up the front also From 1870 to 1893 we adopted very narrow skirts With silk cords, prunella and bronze kid being much with bustles and trains, with which we assisted the muni­ favoured by the latter. For evening wear white kid cipality to clean the streets, and these were followed by shoes, laced at the side and with low heels were "en varieties of the Princess robe. The scarlet Garibaldi regie." later came satin ones with high heels and bows was in evidence in 1865; accompanied by the "Pork Pie" over the. rounded toes. hat. Coral ornaments and bands of black velvet on the . Mrs. Thos.Brown, writing Home, says; "Necessity wrists, to enhance their whiteness were to be seen, and obhges~e.to speak up for some boots and shoes which heavy jewellery of every description was loaded on to are so difficult. to~et here,. and when procured intoler­ the person at that period. Plaid materials, alpacas and ably. dear and inferior, Matilda (her sister) enclosed to merinos of the most vivid shades of blue, violet, green me In ~:me of the cases some black prunella boots at 3/6 and scarlet everywhere lit up fashion's landscape in the per pair. They were quite right in length, but too nar­ early Victorian eta, even in Perth's most favoured ren­ row, as were all the last, both for Mrs. Viveash and dezvous-s-Church and Governinent House. myself. Neverthel.ess we wore them, and I have now Between the 'sixties and 'seventies the arrival of c~me to the last pair. Could some be procured a little your own or your neighbour's (at least annual) case of wider ? I suppose fawn colour would not be any dearer' clothing was an event of considerable importance, en­ they would make a variety. Also a prunella cloth dress suring a good attendance at the next church service in would be a. very use.ful and suitable garment .... and order to get an early view. would provide me WIth a pattern for the fashion." Dr. Hera's wife (afterwards found to be the far­ Mostly of the 17th century type, jointed in the mid­ famed Madeleine Smith) was in my childhood-s-on such dle, pa~asols. of the period were quite unsuited to the occasions-the cynosure of an eyes, for unlike many, Australian climate. The frames were of whalebone she dressed in really good taste, and we, as very young ~nd ,the. handles ivory or bone, with a ring at the top children, were never, tired of looking at her. One of for ~anymg them. They were covered with silk or the most devout and regular attendants, archurch, her brdcade;and often heavily embroidered and fringed. example and refined appearance must have .been impres­ Poke ~pd coal scuttle bonnets with immense feath­ sive to others also. The impression left, on my memory ers, ~luant~tIes o~ flo~ers ~nd broad strings of ribbon, is that she was a gentlewoman in every way, . remained m fashion till quite 1870, then came Princess .Mrs. J. Drummond, a Miss Shawcmaeried-at-Perth bonnets. The caps worn underneath served either for about 1851, wore: white India muslin over white silk, street or house wear, though later quillings of lace, net Early Social Life' and Fashions Iii and flowers took their place under the brim of the bon­ Mr.. George Leake in 1829, writing on the voyage net, small insects such as bees, flies, beetles or lady out to his brother John, states: '}I enjoy excellent health birds being interspersed among the ruching. Caps were and grow. s.tout. I. must not forget my costume in of manifold colours, covered the whole head and, heavily order to, finish the picture. Item: a hairy cap. Item: adorned with flowers, ruchings of lace, and ribbon, had a short Jacket of blue camlet (a material made in those strings of ribbon with sometimes a narrow pleated edge days from camels' hair), yellow waistcoat, etc. Prob­ added. ably the "yellow waistcoat and etc's" (such as trousers) Moderately high-crowned hats were worn with veils were of "nankeen," a kind of Chinese cotton cloth very (then called falls) tied on by a string of some kind, the firm textured and of a yellow colour much utilised for brims being slightly turned up all round. The vicissitudes men's clothing, as also was "fustian" a material made of Lady Broome's hat-bonnet described in her "Letters with a warp of linen thread, and a woof of thick cotton. to Guy" nearly 50 years ago, would have been worth l:hat men's clothing of most kinds, except for special relating, but I leave my listeners to look it up for them­ occasions, became later (in 1838) a problem at times diffi­ selves as it is most amusing. cult .of solution to the pioneers, is borne in upon us by The hair was put up in nets, even children of 9 or entnes made by Mr. F. Moore in his diary, and by vari­ 10 years wearing it thus. These nets were of heavy ous allusions III the letters of Mr. and Mrs. Thomas cord or chenille, being spangled for full dress occasions Brown in the 'forties to Mr. Bussey, Mrs. Brown's father, with jet, and fixed with other ornaments. Curls were Il1 Malvern, England, also by Mr. Landor in his book worn on each side of the head if preferred; if not, the "The Bushman" andMr. Knight in his Diary. hair was combed plainly on each side, and tucked into the net with a sort of loop over the ears. The Alexan­ Mr. Moore confides that he is "really very badly off dra curl came into fashion about 1865. Other modes for many things. I had to go this day to Mr. Brockman were either the chignon, or a number of small sausage­ to beg of him to let me have two or three pairs ot sum­ like rolls on the back of the head, with one large one me~ trousers, of which he brought a large stock from in front high on the head. Plaits, wound coronet like, India. I have literally only one pair of boots, and one were also in evidence after the eighties with a comb to of shoes, and there are none to be got. The ships seem give height. Much false hair was used in the attempt to bring nothing now." If this was the plight of the to enhance, or otherwise, the effect of these modes. Advocate-General and first judge of the civil court of this State, we can realise many others must have been Men's Fashions even more pinched-and women likewise-during the In 1831-we have it on Mr. Fletcher Moore's auth­ first fifteen years of the settlement, at any rate. ority that he "had no notion there would be so much society here, so much gaiety, so much dressing. I Coats and Hats thought in my simplicity that I had for ever laid aside my slight shoes, silk stockings and kid gloves, but I In those early days swallow coats were the fashion for day wear, and also others cut square at the bottom have been agreeably disappointed." He also tells us with large cuffs on the sleeves, lapels and turn over col­ that medical men, lawyers, clergymen, and those in mourning "wear black. Government officers, naval and la:-s. They were double breasted and cut away in front With square, round, or V.-shape openings. In 1834 there military men wear blue cloth coats with gilt crown but­ tons, and blue frocks and trousers;" but on official oc­ came in coats approaching very much in shape to the latter day frock coats, but with shorter tails. casions white duck trousers were apparently donned also. Elsewhere he mentions shoes, boots, buskins Waistcoats were square at the top, short and well (a kind of gaiter), corduroy trousers, and black beaver above the waist, and made of brocaded silk, wool work, hats-"which everyone who can get them wears"- as a~d later crewel work; in fact, any material (preferably being greatly in demand. With a strong touch of colour) was allowable. 16 The Weste

BraCjes It was a common thing to see men wearing beauti­ fully embroidered or wool-worked braces, thus orna­ mented by their wives or female friends; and a most finished adjunct they were to the masculine "toilette" of that day. ' Caps were in vogue, as they still are, and having first become. fashionable in the reign of George II. In those days there was a saying : "Any cap, what e'er it be; was still a sign of some degree;" hardly is that the case now.