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Smith Rock (All Dates Are Month/Day/Year)
Smith Rock (all dates are month/day/year) 5.2 Arrowpoint, Northwest Corner (5.2 Trad) comments: This is the obvious way up the Arrowpoint. Although extremely short, it rewards one with a rare Smith summit experience, which is nice after climbing one of the multi-pitch routes on Smith Rock group. Unfortunately, the Arrowhead is not the true summit of the Smith Rock group. gear: 3 or 4 cams to #3 Camalot ascents: 06/25/2005 lead (approached via Sky Ridge) 03/23/2009 lead (approached via Sky Ridge, PB seconded) 5.5 New Route Left of Purple Headed Warrior (5.5 ? Bolts) comments: Squeeze job with so-so climbing. ascents: 11/6/2016 lead Bits and Pieces (1st Pitch) (5.5 Bolts) comments: Very easy fun route on huge knobs. ascents: 06/17/2001 lead My Little Pony (5.5 Bolts) comments: To the right of the Adventurous Pillar there are four bolted routes. This is the fourth one from the left. ascents: 05/09/2004 lead Night Flight (5.5 Bolts) comments: Route 22 in the Dihedrals section of smithrock.com, to the left of Left Slab Crack. Nice and easy lead. ascents: 03/16/2001 lead 03/30/2001 2nd (continued on Easy Reader 2nd pitch) North Slab Crack (5.5X or TR) comments: Horrible route. ascents: 09/16/2000 (TR) Pack Animal (to Headless Horseman belay) (5.5 Trad) comments: Easy and short trad lead. ascents: 02/08/2004 lead Spiderman Variation (1st pitch) (5.5 Trad) comments: Nice, but not as good as the 1st pitch of Spiderman proper. -
Multi-Pitch Trad Course
MULTI-PITCH TRAD COURSE This course is designed to teach the skills required to complete climb multi-pitch trad routes. Students will be given time and education to safely and efficiently lead multi-pitch climbs. Skills Covered Building of 3-point gear anchors Belaying a follower from the top with an auto-blocking device Swapping leads Being efficient on climbs including proper rope management Basic rescue techniques Understanding route selection Graduation Criteria Safely lead 1 multi-pitch trad route Prerequisites Single-pitch trad course or equivalent o Ability to lead on trad gear up to 5.6 o Ability to rappel safely o Ability to build a top-rope anchor on bolts o Basic skills to climb cracks Summary of Activities 1 evening kickoff session 2 evenings for skills review 2 weekend days of outdoor multi-pitch mock leading on trad gear 2 weekend days of outdoor multi-pitch leading on trad gear Student Gear List *Please DO NOT purchase gear until after our Kick Off Session (#17 & #18 are above what is required for the single-pitch course) 1. Climbing helmet 2. Rock climbing shoes 3. Harness 4. 1 personal anchor (Metolius) + locking carabiner 5. 6 single alpine slings 6. 2 double alpine slings 7. 1 triple alpine sling 8. 18 standard-sized non-locking carabiners (2 per sling) 9. 6 locking carabiners (in addition to the one in #4) 10. One set of standard-sized cams One cam each matching the following Black Diamond sizes: .3, .4, .5, .75, 1, 2, 3 11. 7 carabiners – one for each cam Do not need to be full sized Getting carabiners that match the color of your cams will be helpful 12. -
Rätikon (...And Frankenjura!)
Rätikon (...and Frankenjura!) Imperial College expedition 5-18th August 2015 Contents 1 Expedition summary 3 2 Aims 3 3 Logistics 5 3.1 Transport and Accommodation . 5 3.2 Equipment . 6 3.3 Food............................................. 7 3.4 Weather . 7 4 The team 7 4.1 Expedition members . 7 4.1.1 Amar Nanda (21): 2nd year medical student . 7 4.1.2 Elliot White (21): Climbing route-setter . 9 4.2 Training and preparation . 9 5 Trip diary 9 5.1 Gruobenfieber (7+/6c) . 10 5.2 Miss Partnun (9-/7b+) . 13 5.3 Grüscher Älpi . 16 5.4 Frankenjura . 20 6 Finances 21 7 Legacy 27 8 Acknowledgements 28 2 1 EXPEDITION SUMMARY For any climber looking to do challenging, alpine style multipitch, pilgrimage to the Rätikon mountain range is a must. Situated at the borderlands between Austria, Liechtenstein, and Switzerland, the region is saturated with world class climbing. Routes are famous for being exposed and isolated, with large run outs and long walk-ins. After dreaming of tip-toeing up the massive wall of the Kirchlispitzen for the past four years, in summer 2015, with the support of Imperial college Exploration board we finally set off for that soaring limestone face. The Rätikon was everything we hoped for and more. Crazily technical climbing on stunning rock terrified and thrilled us in equal measure. However, heartbreakingly, we never made it to the Kirchlispitzen. Our van had major problems just 500m before reaching the base camp area for the climbs. Unable to go on and unable to leave the van blocking the road we were forced to retreat back down to the valley, and, after much deliberation we fled to the flatland of the Frankenjura forest in Germany, climbing there for the rest of the trip. -
2014 AMGA SPI Manual
AMERICAN MOUNTAIN GUIDES ASSOCIATION AMGA Single Pitch Instructor 2014 Program Manual American Mountain Guides Association P.O. Box 1739 Boulder, CO 80306 Phone: 303-271-0984 Fax: 303-271-1377 www.amga.com 1 AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Program © American Mountain Guides Association Participation Statement The American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) recognizes that climbing and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Clients in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions. The AMGA provides training and assessment courses and associated literature to help leaders manage these risks and to enable new clients to have positive experiences while learning about their responsibilities. Introduction and how to use this Manual This handbook contains information for candidates and AMGA licensed SPI Providers privately offering AMGA SPI Programs. Operational frameworks and guidelines are provided which ensure that continuity is maintained from program to program and between instructors and examiners. Continuity provides a uniform standard for clients who are taught, coached, and examined by a variety of instructors and examiners over a period of years. Continuity also assists in ensuring the program presents a professional image to clients and outside observers, and it eases the workload of organizing, preparing, and operating courses. Audience Candidates on single pitch instructor courses. This manual was written to help candidates prepare for and complete the AMGA Single Pitch Instructors certification course. AMGA Members: AMGA members may find this a helpful resource for conducting programs in the field. This manual will supplement their previous training and certification. -
LECTURE #5 Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue Pt
Basic Rock & Glacier Climbing Course 2018 – Tacoma Mountaineers LECTURE #5 Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue Pt. 2 Lecture 5 Topics Glacier Travel Crevasse Rescue What to Expect on Glacier Climbs Field Trip Leader Q & A (Field Trips 5, 6P, 6/7) Assigned Reading (complete prior to Lecture #5) The Freedom of the Hills, 9th edition Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue Chapter 18 Mountain Geology Chapter 26 The Cycle of Snow Chapter 27 Basic Rock & Glacier Climbing Course Manual All Lecture #5 Material GLACIER TRAVEL & CREVASSE RESCUE OVERVIEW Glacier travel employs all the techniques used in snow travel with one major addition, navigating crevasses. Crevasses are vertical ice trenches in the snow, which are very hazardous and ready to trap the careless climber. They tend to stay hidden until later in the season when the snow melts and collapses into the crevasse. If the snow coverage is thick and strong you will likely walk right over the crevasse and never know it. Sometimes a visible crevasse will have a snow bridge that you can cross if it’s strong enough, but the real hazard is the crevasse with just a weak thin covering of snow that will not support a climber’s weight. It is not always the lead climber that breaks through, it may be the second or third or even the next rope team. You never know. That’s why you ALWAYS ROPE-UP WHEN TRAVELING ON A GLACIER and keep the rope fully extended. It’s ideal to have three climbers per rope and at least two teams, so if you have to perform a rescue, it is much faster and easier. -
Korona VI, South Face, Georgian Direct
AAC Publications Korona VI, South Face, Georgian Direct Kyrgyzstan, Ala Archa National Park After staying a few days in the Ratsek Hut, Giorgi Tepnadze and I hiked up to the Korona Hut, a demotivating place due to its poor condition and interior design. We first went to the foot of Free Korea Peak to inspect a route we planned to try on the north face, and then set up camp below Korona’s less frequently climbed Sixth Tower (one of the highest Korona towers at 4,860m), at the head of the Ak-Sai Glacier. We began our climb on July 9, on a rightward slanting ramp to the right of known routes on the south face. After some moderate mixed climbing, we headed up a direct line for four difficult pitches: dry tooling with and without crampons; aid climbing up to A2+; free climbing with big (yet safe) fall potential, and then a final traverse left to cross a wide snow shelf and couloir. On the next pitch, starting up a steep rock wall, we spotted pitons and rappel slings; the rock pitches involved steep free climbing to 5c. The ninth pitch was wet, and above this we constructed a bivouac under a steep rock barrier, after several hours of dedicated effort. Next day was Giorgi’s turn to lead. The weather was horrible, and Giorgi had to dance the vertical in plastic boots. However, we tried our best to free as much as we could. Surprisingly, we found pitons on two pitches, before we made a leftward traverse, and more as we aided a wet chimney. -
Rock Climbing Fundamentals Has Been Crafted Exclusively For
Disclaimer Rock climbing is an inherently dangerous activity; severe injury or death can occur. The content in this eBook is not a substitute to learning from a professional. Moja Outdoors, Inc. and Pacific Edge Climbing Gym may not be held responsible for any injury or death that might occur upon reading this material. Copyright © 2016 Moja Outdoors, Inc. You are free to share this PDF. Unless credited otherwise, photographs are property of Michael Lim. Other images are from online sources that allow for commercial use with attribution provided. 2 About Words: Sander DiAngelis Images: Michael Lim, @murkytimes This copy of Rock Climbing Fundamentals has been crafted exclusively for: Pacific Edge Climbing Gym Santa Cruz, California 3 Table of Contents 1. A Brief History of Climbing 2. Styles of Climbing 3. An Overview of Climbing Gear 4. Introduction to Common Climbing Holds 5. Basic Technique for New Climbers 6. Belaying Fundamentals 7. Climbing Grades, Explained 8. General Tips and Advice for New Climbers 9. Your Responsibility as a Climber 10.A Simplified Climbing Glossary 11.Useful Bonus Materials More topics at mojagear.com/content 4 Michael Lim 5 A Brief History of Climbing Prior to the evolution of modern rock climbing, the most daring ambitions revolved around peak-bagging in alpine terrain. The concept of climbing a rock face, not necessarily reaching the top of the mountain, was a foreign concept that seemed trivial by comparison. However, by the late 1800s, rock climbing began to evolve into its very own sport. There are 3 areas credited as the birthplace of rock climbing: 1. -
Lowering-Of-A-Single-Bolt.Pdf
Sport climbing Backing ofl a single pitch: descending and removing gear ou are unable to climb any higherl The lead climber is stuck at a bolt in the middle of a pitch. The easiest option is to be lowered on top-rope, leaving the quickdraws and asking someone to collect them later, or ._ *a collecting them yourself after climbing a j:t'. i,_. route next to it. ll none of these options ,;t# :. is possible, how can you descend and t, clean the route with limited risk? '}' -,; ffi' .a ii:r '.9 .E .,e.,. E I, L ,- '= E .= Oescend on a single holt? Lower or rappel? = 115 daN = 90 daN = .'u-&" .= .2 .e E 70 kg Avoid lhe rislr ol breakage Slress on the bolt When it is diJficult to estimate the strength The stress on the bolt is approximately 25 daN higher with lowering than with rappelling of a bolt, it is necessary to use a technique ({or two people of 70 kg). This number is negligible compared to the strength required o{ that takes into account the risk ol the anchor a bolt (2500 daN). The stresses placed on a bolt when lowering or rappelling are therefore breaking. practically identical, lowering is therelore recommended since it allows the climber to remain tied in throughout the lowering process. www.petzl.com Sport climbing Backing oll a single pitch: descending and remouing gear Techniques for lowering when backing off a climb Lowering off lwo points Lowering with Prusik .2 .E 'tr .9 a E .9 = -E = Transfer weight to your feet Consequences ol a broken Transler weight to your feet Gonsequences ol a broken to reduce tension on the holl to reduce tension on the Iolt quickdraw. -
Waypoint Namibia
Majka enjoys a perfect crack on Southern Crossing. Big wall Waypoint Namibia What makes a climb impassable? I’m 215-meters up a first ascent of a granite crack climb in the heart of Namibia, and all I have to hold onto is a bush. Lots of bushes. Trees, too. In order to get where I’m going - the summit - I need what’s behind the bushes, the thing these bushes are choking, the thing that I have travelled 15,400 kilometers by plane, truck, and foot for: a perfect crack. amibia is not known for its climbing, which is exactly why I wanted to go there. It’s better known as Africa’s newest Nindependent country, the source of the continent’s largest stores of uranium and diamonds, the Namib Desert, the Skeleton Coast, and its tribal peoples. Previously known as Southwest Africa, this former German colony and South African protectorate holds some of the most coveted, and least visited, natural sites in Africa. In the middle of all of these lies Spitzkoppe, a 500-meter granite plug with over eighty established climbs. When I learned about Spitzkoppe in December 2007, I automatically started wondering what else might be possible to climb in Namibia. I pick unlikely climbing destinations because I want to learn what happens on the margins of adventure. War, apartheid, and remoteness have all combined to keep many of Namibia’s vertical landscapes relatively unexplored. When I found an out-of-focus photo of a 1,000-meter granite prow with a mud Himba hut in the foreground, I knew I had found my objective. -
Climbing Fences,, Ropes, Knots and Rope Making
CLIMBING FENCES, ROPES, KNOTS AND ROPE MAKING TECHNIQUES Stolen from UK Indymedia - www.indymedia.org.uk/en/2006/07/346369.html?c=on#c152797 Many activists get arrested cutting through military fences and so get the extra charge of 'malicious mischief'. Using a ladder to climb fences is impracticable as you tend to get intercepted and charged for approaching a base with a ladder. You can buy 'telescopic-ladders' but they are very expensi ve so here is the cheapo solution. You can buy metal key -ring clips with chains for about a £1.50 from cornershops and newsagents. You can then clip the chains to fences to allow use as foothold and handholds. If the keyring clip is less than 7mm in diameter at it's thinnest - and most of them are - you can clip onto even the thin fences that they use at places like Faslane. Bolting a piece of flat wood to the chain means the foothold stands proud of the fence and makes it is easier and quicker for severa l people to use in the dark. These are pocket -sized / foot -sized so are easily concealed and only four are required to help the least fit activists easily climb an 8m fence, and are also cheap enough to be disposable in a rush. If you are very careful attaching it to the fence then you don't even set off the high-tech vibration sensors that military fences often utlise, at least until you start climbing. Make sure the wood you use is strong enough to take your bodyweight after drilling - also - test them once you've built them. -
081D 12/04 • Courses and Events • National Representation
Climbing Outside Contents 1 Risks . 2 2 Clubs . 3 3 Young Climbers . 3 4 The Environment . 4 5 History and Ethics . 6 6 Grades . 7 7 Bouldering . 9 8 Leading Indoors . 11 9 Sport Climbing . 11 10 Traditional Climbing . 12 11 Abseiling . 25 Cover photo: Clipping a camming device, Stanage Photo – Alex Messenger • Working for climbers, Acknowledgements hill walkers and Produced by Jon Garside BMC/MLTE Training Officer with support from members of the Training mountaineers Advisory Group. Funded by Sport England A number of people were very generous in • Keeping crags open contributing to this booklet: British Mountain Guide • Travel and Steve Long gave us free access to the text in his First Moves series, the Bouldering section was liability insurance adapted from Simon Panton’s North Wales Bouldering guide (Northern Soul, 2004), and • Competitions, safety Barbara Jones contributed to the conservation and training issues in that section. A number of diagrams • Discounts on gear, have been taken from MLTUK’s book Rock magazines and travel Climbing – Essential Skills & Techniques • Worldwide by British Mountain ‘information service’ Guide Libby Peter. To purchase a copy now please contact Join today the BMC on www.thebmc.co.uk 0870 010 4878. Many wall users wanting to climb on real rock would like to develop their inside to outside existing skills. If that sounds like you, then read on! Britain is often referred to as the home Remote adventurous climbing, Scafell of adventure climbing, and renowned Photo – Jon Garside for the incredible variety of rock types available on such a small island. Our cliffs may not be the tallest, but they present many new challenges not experienced indoors, forcing the climber to adopt very different climbing styles. -
Fall Into Crevasse—Snow Bridge Collapse
FALL INTO CREVASSE—SNOW BRIDGE COLLAPSE Washington, Mount Rainier On August 27, 1989, around 0830, Park Ranger Nina Burnell (26) and her climbing partner Mark Ross (28) were descending the Disappointment Cleaver Route from the summit of Mount Rainier when a snow bridge collapsed, pulling them both into the crevasse. (They were on a 23-meter rope, which was doubled, so there was about 12 meters between them.) At 0800 Burnell had radioed down from the summit with weather information. Then they began their descent down the mountain. When they came to the junction of the route they had climbed up and the older route, they decided to descend the older route. At the 4100-meter level they came to a snow bridge at the base of a fixed rope. Ross belayed Burnell across the snow bridge and then followed. When Ross stepped onto the snow bridge, it collapsed, pulling Ross and Burnell in. Both climbers were covered by blocks of ice. Ross dug himself out and then he located Burnell and dug her out. They both climbed a ramp to the surface of the glacier 15 meters above. Once out of the crevasse, they assessed their injuries. Burnell’s right foot was hurting, she had a laceration on the left side of her head, and lower back pain. Ross had sore ribs, but otherwise was all right. Ross climbed back down into the crevasse and retrieved the pack, which had the park service radio in it. At 0848 Ross radioed Paradise and reported the accident. Burnell sustained a fractured ankle, a laceration on her head, and multiple con tusions.