Lowering-Of-A-Single-Bolt.Pdf

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Sport climbing Backing ofl a single pitch: descending and removing gear ou are unable to climb any higherl The lead climber is stuck at a bolt in the middle of a pitch. The easiest option is to be lowered on top-rope, leaving the quickdraws and asking someone to collect them later, or ._ *a collecting them yourself after climbing a j:t'. i,_. route next to it. ll none of these options ,;t# :. is possible, how can you descend and t, clean the route with limited risk? '}' -,; ffi' .a ii:r '.9 .E .,e.,. E I, L ,- '= E .= Oescend on a single holt? Lower or rappel? = 115 daN = 90 daN = .'u-&" .= .2 .e E 70 kg Avoid lhe rislr ol breakage Slress on the bolt When it is diJficult to estimate the strength The stress on the bolt is approximately 25 daN higher with lowering than with rappelling of a bolt, it is necessary to use a technique ({or two people of 70 kg). This number is negligible compared to the strength required o{ that takes into account the risk ol the anchor a bolt (2500 daN). The stresses placed on a bolt when lowering or rappelling are therefore breaking. practically identical, lowering is therelore recommended since it allows the climber to remain tied in throughout the lowering process. www.petzl.com Sport climbing Backing oll a single pitch: descending and remouing gear Techniques for lowering when backing off a climb Lowering off lwo points Lowering with Prusik .2 .E 'tr .9 a E .9 = -E = Transfer weight to your feet Consequences ol a broken Transler weight to your feet Gonsequences ol a broken to reduce tension on the holl to reduce tension on the Iolt quickdraw. Place a quick link in lf the top bolt breaks, the quickdraw. Place a quick link in ll the top bolt breaks, the the bolt between the quickdraw climber will be held by the the bolt between the quickdraw climber will be held under the and the rock. Thread the rope second bolt. and the rock. Thread the rope next quickdraw by the Prusik through the quick link; lock it through the quick link; lock it knot. tightly. Remove the quickdraw. tightly. Make a Prusik knot with Technique lested on a 4 m Lower to the next bolt. Repeat a cordelette and attach it to the fall with an 80 kg weight, the operation. Descend and belay loop of your harness with usingaTmmPrusik .4 clean the route. a locking carabiner. Remove cordelette and a single E the quickdraw Descend and 9.7 mm rope, clean the route. 0bservations: . fall arrested . cordelette and rope intact R The Prusik knot is a multidirectional knot, nn % iamming in both directions. UKJ U P444 SPEEDY Am'D 7 mm cordelette for Prusik WWW.petzl.COm Product list is non-exhaustive. Find a complete list of products and descriptions in the products section..

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