DOCSLIB.ORG

Rating System

Total Page：16

File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb

Download full-text PDF Read full-text
Rating System What are rock climbing grades / ratings? Grades are a means of estimating the difficulty of a climb. The main purpose of grades is to determine if you should even bother going to an area (or if it will too hard / easy). There is no science involved when determining the grade of a climb. Grades are simply an opinion. Grades are traditionally assigned by the climber who completed the first ascent of the climb. Tips on utilizing grades Do not take grades too seriously. A common misinterpretation of grades is after you can climb grade 'X' at your home crag you can climb grade 'X' anywhere. The technique involved in granite, limestone and sandstone are unique. Unique angles as well as textures of rock require individual skills. Indoor grades and outdoor grades rarely coincide (plus the art of 'route finding' is not found in the gym). Grades are a guide. Sandbagging is common. Sandbagging In the rock climbing world 'Sandbagging' refers to giving a climb an easier grade then it deserves. An example is a climb that would typically be rated as 5.10+ being rated as 5.9- (YDS). Sandbagging is very common in older crags when the grading system was still being developed. Due to tradition the original grade of a climb will be listed in most guide books. Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) Yosemite Decimal System is a grading system commonly found in the United States. The basic concept behind the Yosemite Decimal System is simple and utilizes the following format: Format: Class.Sub_Grade Suffix Danger_Factor Example: 5.11b R (5 is Class, 11 is Sub_Grade, b is Suffix and R is Danger Factor). Classes (Yosemite Decimal System) An example would be 5.9 where '5' is the 'Class' and 9 is the 'Sub-Grade'. In YDS the class has a value from 1 to 6. 1 = Walking 2 = Hiking up steep trail 3 = Steep hiking 4 = Steep hiking / scrambling. Some parties may want a rope. 5 = Climbing. Most parties will want a rope. Exposed terrain. 6 = Aid climbing only In free climbing most grades will be class 5. Mountaineering typically involves everything from class 1 to 6. Aid Climbing focuses mainly on difficult class 5 climbs and class 6 climbs. Sub-Grade (Yosemite Decimal System) The sub-grade ranges from 1 to a theoretically infinite number (today the highest number is 15). The number is increased when a 'harder' climb is developed. 5.1-5.6 Easy 5.7-5.9 Intermediate 5.10-5.11 Difficult 5.12-5.13 Very Difficult 5.14-5.15 Expert Suffix (Yosemite Decimal System) A suffix is often found on grades 5.10 and higher. Suffix have two traditional formats. Alphabetic suffix range are 'a','b','c' or 'd'. 5.10a is the easiest 5.10. 5.10d is the hardest 5.10. The alternative is '+', '-'. 5.10+ is a difficult 5.10 and 5.10- is an easier 5.10. Danger Factor (Yosemite Decimal System) Danger factors describe the protection available (or that can be placed) on a climb. Most ratings do not have a danger factor rating and this indicates that the climb is well protected (but always use your own discretion). PG Runouts may be present but falls will not be dangerous R Long runouts are present. There is enough protection to stop you from hitting the ground but injuries may occur. X Little or no protection. There are areas where falling is not acceptable. Death can occur from a fall on this climb. S This is a fairly new danger factor rating scale. 'S' stands for 'serious' and is similar to an 'R' danger factor except that 'S' values are affiliated with a 'Sub-Grade' value. An example grade would be: 5.11b S9 9 is the sub-grade value affiliated with the 'S' value. This sub-grade indicates that there is a potentially hazardous 5.9 move on the climb but the crux (the 5.11 move) is well protected. This system is good because many 5.12 climbers would be willing to runout 5.9 moves but not willing to runout 5.11 moves. Multipitch Grades Multipitch grades indicate the amount of time a strong party will complete the route in. The standard format is shown below. Grade [Roman-numerical value] Grade I Quick climb. Grade II Two - three hours. Grade III Half a day Grade IV All day Grade V Two days Grade VI Longer than two days Bouldering Rating Scale The standard bouldering rating scale is measured in 'V' grades ranging from 0-16. 16 is the current highest value and will increase in the future. V0 is an 'easy' boulder problem (though most V0s are still challenging for beginner climbers). V16 is the hardest. VB is becoming popular in gyms and stands for V-Beginner. Aid Climbing Grades A0 - Aiding a one inch, granite crack would be A0. You can place protection whenever you choose. No hook moves are required. A0 is also used to describe bolted routes that are bolted so close together that a climber can reach the next bolt from the previous bolt. A1 - One or two hook moves may be required between protection placements. A2 - Multiple hook moves in a row on good hook placements (longer fall potential than A0 - A1). A3 - Multiple hook moves in a row including body weight only placements, moderate - scary runouts. A4 - Primarily body weight only placements hook moves, including scary (often dangerous) runouts. Extremely technical gear placements. International Grading Systems There are unique grading systems throughout the entire world. The following table compares them. Australia France UK USA (YDS) Bouldering Scale 4 1 M 5.1 VB 6 2 M 5.2 VB 6 2+ 3a VD 5.3 VB 8 3- 3b VD, 3B HVD 5.4 VB 10 3 3c HVD, 3c S 5.5 VB 12 3+ 4a S, 4a HS 5.6 VB 14 4 4a VS, 4b HS 5.7 VB 14, 16 4+ 4c VS 5.8 VB 16 5 4c HVS 5.9 VB 18 5+ 5b HVS 5.10a VB 19 6a 5a E1 5.10b VB 19,20 6a+ 5b E2 5.10c VB 20,21 6b 6a E2, 5C E3 5.10d V0 21 6b+ 6a E3 5.11a V0 22 6c 6a E4 5.11b V1 23 6c+ 6a E4, 6b E4 5.11c V1 23/24 7a 6b E4, 6a E5 5.11d V2 24 7a+ 6a E5, 6c E5 5.12a V3 25 7b 6c E5 5.12b V4 26 7b+ 6b E6 5.12c V5 27 7c 6c E6 5.12d V6 28 7c+ 6c E7 5.13a V7 29 8a 7a E7 5.13b V8 30 8a+ 6c E8 5.13c V9 31 8b 7a E8 5.13d V10 32 8b+ 7a E9 5.14a V11 33 8c 7b E9 5.14b V12 34 8c+ 7a E10 5.14c V13 35 9a 7b E10 5.14d V14 36 9a+ 7b E10 5.15a V15 37 9a+ 7b E10 5.15b V16 .
Load more

Recommended publications
  • Palms to Pines Scenic Byway Corridor Management Plan
    Palms to Pines Scenic Byway Corridor Management Plan PALMS TO PINES STATE SCENIC HIGHWAY CALIFORNIA STATE ROUTES 243 AND 74 June 2012 This document was produced by USDA Forest Service Recreation Solutions Enterprise Team with support from the Federal Highway Administration and in partnership with the USDA Forest Service Pacific Southwest Region, the Bureau of Land Management, the California Department of Transportation, California State University, Chico Research Foundation and many local partners. The USDA, the BLM, FHWA and State of California are equal opportunity providers and employers. In accordance with Federal law, U.S. Department of Agriculture policy and U.S. Department of Interior policy, this institution is prohibited from discriminating on the basis of race, color, national origin, sex, age or disability. (Not all prohibited bases apply to all programs.) To file a complaint of discrimination, write USDA, Director, Office of Civil Rights, Room 326-W, Whitten Building, 1400 Independence Avenue, SW, Washington, DC 20250-9410 or call (202) 720- 5964 (voice and TDD). Table of Contents Chapter 1 – The Palms to Pines Scenic Byway .........................................................................1 Introduction ................................................................................................................................. 1 Benefits of National Scenic Byway Designation .......................................................................... 2 Corridor Management Planning .................................................................................................
    [Show full text]
  • Korona VI, South Face, Georgian Direct
    AAC Publications Korona VI, South Face, Georgian Direct Kyrgyzstan, Ala Archa National Park After staying a few days in the Ratsek Hut, Giorgi Tepnadze and I hiked up to the Korona Hut, a demotivating place due to its poor condition and interior design. We first went to the foot of Free Korea Peak to inspect a route we planned to try on the north face, and then set up camp below Korona’s less frequently climbed Sixth Tower (one of the highest Korona towers at 4,860m), at the head of the Ak-Sai Glacier. We began our climb on July 9, on a rightward slanting ramp to the right of known routes on the south face. After some moderate mixed climbing, we headed up a direct line for four difficult pitches: dry tooling with and without crampons; aid climbing up to A2+; free climbing with big (yet safe) fall potential, and then a final traverse left to cross a wide snow shelf and couloir. On the next pitch, starting up a steep rock wall, we spotted pitons and rappel slings; the rock pitches involved steep free climbing to 5c. The ninth pitch was wet, and above this we constructed a bivouac under a steep rock barrier, after several hours of dedicated effort. Next day was Giorgi’s turn to lead. The weather was horrible, and Giorgi had to dance the vertical in plastic boots. However, we tried our best to free as much as we could. Surprisingly, we found pitons on two pitches, before we made a leftward traverse, and more as we aided a wet chimney.
    [Show full text]
  • Rock Climbing Fundamentals Has Been Crafted Exclusively For
    Disclaimer Rock climbing is an inherently dangerous activity; severe injury or death can occur. The content in this eBook is not a substitute to learning from a professional. Moja Outdoors, Inc. and Pacific Edge Climbing Gym may not be held responsible for any injury or death that might occur upon reading this material. Copyright © 2016 Moja Outdoors, Inc. You are free to share this PDF. Unless credited otherwise, photographs are property of Michael Lim. Other images are from online sources that allow for commercial use with attribution provided. 2 About Words: Sander DiAngelis Images: Michael Lim, @murkytimes This copy of Rock Climbing Fundamentals has been crafted exclusively for: Pacific Edge Climbing Gym Santa Cruz, California 3 Table of Contents 1. A Brief History of Climbing 2. Styles of Climbing 3. An Overview of Climbing Gear 4. Introduction to Common Climbing Holds 5. Basic Technique for New Climbers 6. Belaying Fundamentals 7. Climbing Grades, Explained 8. General Tips and Advice for New Climbers 9. Your Responsibility as a Climber 10.A Simplified Climbing Glossary 11.Useful Bonus Materials More topics at mojagear.com/content 4 Michael Lim 5 A Brief History of Climbing Prior to the evolution of modern rock climbing, the most daring ambitions revolved around peak-bagging in alpine terrain. The concept of climbing a rock face, not necessarily reaching the top of the mountain, was a foreign concept that seemed trivial by comparison. However, by the late 1800s, rock climbing began to evolve into its very own sport. There are 3 areas credited as the birthplace of rock climbing: 1.
    [Show full text]
  • Waypoint Namibia
    Majka enjoys a perfect crack on Southern Crossing. Big wall Waypoint Namibia What makes a climb impassable? I’m 215-meters up a first ascent of a granite crack climb in the heart of Namibia, and all I have to hold onto is a bush. Lots of bushes. Trees, too. In order to get where I’m going - the summit - I need what’s behind the bushes, the thing these bushes are choking, the thing that I have travelled 15,400 kilometers by plane, truck, and foot for: a perfect crack. amibia is not known for its climbing, which is exactly why I wanted to go there. It’s better known as Africa’s newest Nindependent country, the source of the continent’s largest stores of uranium and diamonds, the Namib Desert, the Skeleton Coast, and its tribal peoples. Previously known as Southwest Africa, this former German colony and South African protectorate holds some of the most coveted, and least visited, natural sites in Africa. In the middle of all of these lies Spitzkoppe, a 500-meter granite plug with over eighty established climbs. When I learned about Spitzkoppe in December 2007, I automatically started wondering what else might be possible to climb in Namibia. I pick unlikely climbing destinations because I want to learn what happens on the margins of adventure. War, apartheid, and remoteness have all combined to keep many of Namibia’s vertical landscapes relatively unexplored. When I found an out-of-focus photo of a 1,000-meter granite prow with a mud Himba hut in the foreground, I knew I had found my objective.
    [Show full text]
  • 081D 12/04 • Courses and Events • National Representation
    Climbing Outside Contents 1 Risks . 2 2 Clubs . 3 3 Young Climbers . 3 4 The Environment . 4 5 History and Ethics . 6 6 Grades . 7 7 Bouldering . 9 8 Leading Indoors . 11 9 Sport Climbing . 11 10 Traditional Climbing . 12 11 Abseiling . 25 Cover photo: Clipping a camming device, Stanage Photo – Alex Messenger • Working for climbers, Acknowledgements hill walkers and Produced by Jon Garside BMC/MLTE Training Officer with support from members of the Training mountaineers Advisory Group. Funded by Sport England A number of people were very generous in • Keeping crags open contributing to this booklet: British Mountain Guide • Travel and Steve Long gave us free access to the text in his First Moves series, the Bouldering section was liability insurance adapted from Simon Panton’s North Wales Bouldering guide (Northern Soul, 2004), and • Competitions, safety Barbara Jones contributed to the conservation and training issues in that section. A number of diagrams • Discounts on gear, have been taken from MLTUK’s book Rock magazines and travel Climbing – Essential Skills & Techniques • Worldwide by British Mountain ‘information service’ Guide Libby Peter. To purchase a copy now please contact Join today the BMC on www.thebmc.co.uk 0870 010 4878. Many wall users wanting to climb on real rock would like to develop their inside to outside existing skills. If that sounds like you, then read on! Britain is often referred to as the home Remote adventurous climbing, Scafell of adventure climbing, and renowned Photo – Jon Garside for the incredible variety of rock types available on such a small island. Our cliffs may not be the tallest, but they present many new challenges not experienced indoors, forcing the climber to adopt very different climbing styles.
    [Show full text]
  • Climbers' Preferred Management Actions: Addressing Resource And
    AN ABSTRACT OF THE THESIS OF Molly T. Burns for the degree of Master of Science in Forest Resources presented on December 4, 2014 Title: Climbers’ Preferred Management Actions: Addressing Resource and Crowding Impacts in Yosemite Valley Abstract approved: ________________________________________________________ Joanne F. Tynon As more people become interested in rock climbing, the need to understand climbers and their preferences and how their activities impact the resource are more vital than ever. With increased use, and with little empirical data about the Yosemite climbing community, park managers cannot adequately develop a comprehensive climbing management plan. The objectives of this research are to use a theoretically based survey instrument to measure Yosemite NP climbers’ level of support for different management strategies. I used chi-square analysis to evaluate the relationship between my independent variables, climbers’ self identified skill level and dependent variables, climbers’ perceived crowding and support for different resource and social based management actions. I found a relationship between climbers’ experience level and their support for resource based management actions. This suggests to managers that managing climbing impacts, either resource based or social impacts, should focus on managing the resource by using restoration techniques, or providing signs or maps to direct climbers to climbing areas. ©Copyright by Molly T. Burns December 4, 2014 All Rights Reserved Climbers’ Preferred Management Actions: Addressing Resource and Crowding Impacts in Yosemite Valley by Molly T. Burns A THESIS Submitted to Oregon State University in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science Presented December 4, 2014 Commencement June 2015 Master of Science thesis of Molly T.
    [Show full text]
  • A Historical Geography of Yosemite Valley Climbing Landscapes J
    Journal of Historical Geography 32 (2006) 190e219 www.elsevier.com/locate/jhg Mapping adventure: a historical geography of Yosemite Valley climbing landscapes J. Taylor Departments of History and Geography, Simon Fraser University, Burnaby, British Columbia, Canada, V5A 1S6 Abstract Climbing guidebooks are invaluable resources for examining how modern recreation has inscribed val- ues onto public landscapes. The history of rock climbing in Yosemite Valley is particularly instructive be- cause it was a principal location for modern rock climbing and influenced modern environmental thought. Examining climbing guidebooks for Yosemite Valley also reveals a cultural shift during the 1960s in how climbers represented themselves and their deeds. New trends in route descriptions and naming practices re- flected shifts in social mores, environmental conditions, and sporting behavior. Guidebooks produced since 1970 suggest a coarsening progression in sport and an altered community demography, yet these texts also illustrate how change reinforced climbing’s values and customs. Ó 2004 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved. Keywords: Yosemite; Guidebooks; History; Gender; Recreation In August 1933 a young San Francisco lawyer named Peter Starr hiked into the Sierra Nevada wilderness and disappeared. A huge search ensued, complete with elite climbing teams and the first ever use of airplanes in a Sierra search and rescue. Three weeks later another climber found Starr’s body on a ledge of the steep, previously unclimbed northeastern face of Michael Minaret. Peter Starr’s death rocked genteel California. News reports and polite society obsessed about him, but at the service Francis Farquhar, president of the Sierra Club, transformed Starr from victim to hero.
    [Show full text]
  • Quantifying the Risk in Adventure Ross Cloutier Methods of Assessing Risk
    without the consent of author. 10/12 This document may not be reproduced Quantifying the Risk in Adventure Ross Cloutier Methods of Assessing Risk 1. Active management of the largest risks – Those most prominent and well known 2. High/medium/low classification of risks – Two dimensional analysis of L-M-H impact and L-M-H probability without the consent of author. 10/12 This document may not be reproduced 3. Statistical analysis – An attempt to move beyond best guess estimates to probability distribution models Accident Statistics Applied to an Average Adventure Business If, – 2,500 client days per year – 2,500 x 10 years = 25,000 client days – 6 hours per day activity time without the consent of author. 10/12 This document may not be reproduced – 6 x 25,000 = 150,000 client hours over 10 years – This is approximately1/7 of 1 million hours (15%) – If the business met adventure industry average of 40 events (injuries)/1million hrs, then we could expect 6 events over 10 years – We could also expect .75 fatalities over 10 years or 1 every 200,000 hours Comparative Adventure Statistics (Old data) – Adventure sport death rate = 5 deaths per 1 million hours of client exposure – National accidental death rate (all causes) = without the consent of author. 10/12 This document may not be reproduced 1 death per 1 million hours of exposure – Vehicle death rate = 7 deaths per 1 million hours – Adventure injuries = 40 per 1 million hours – Vehicle & football injuries = 60 per 1 million hours NOLS Injury & Illness Statistics (2007-2011) Injuries (average 212 per year) • 6% of students are injured • 49% of injured students are evacuated • 43% of injuries are sprains, strains, tendon injuries without the consent of author.
    [Show full text]
  • International Rock Climbing Research Association Position Statement
    View metadata, citation and similar papers at core.ac.uk brought to you by CORE provided by UDORA - University of Derby Online Research Archive Comparative grading scales, statistical analyses, climber descriptors and ability grouping: International Rock Climbing Research Association Position Statement NICK DRAPER1,2, DAVID GILES1, VOLKER SCHÖFFL3, FRANZ KONSTANTIN FUSS4, PHILLIP B. WATTS5, PETER WOLF6, JIŘÍ BALÁŠ 7, VANESA ESPAÑA ROMERO8, GINA BLUNT GONZALEZ9, SIMON FRYER10, MAURIZIO FANCHINI11, LAURENT VIGOUROUX12, LUDOVIC SEIFERT13, LARS DONATH14, MANUEL SPOERRI15, KELIOS BONETTI16, KEVIN C. PHILLIPS5, URS STÖCKER17, FÉLIX BOURASSA-MOREAU18, INMACULADA GARRIDO19, SCOTT DRUM5, STUART BEEKMEYER20, JEAN-LUC ZILTENER21, NICOLA TAYLOR1, INA BEERETZ22, FRANZISKA MALLY23,4, ARIF MITHAT AMCA24, CAROLINE LINHAT25, EDGARDO AC ABREU26 1Department of Life Sciences, College of Life and Natural Sciences, University of Derby, Derby, United Kingdom, 2School of Sport and Physical Education, University of Canterbury, Christchurch, New Zealand, 3Dept. of Sportsorthopedics, Sportsmedicine, Klinikum Bamberg, Germany, 4 School of Aerospace, Mechanical and Manufacturing Engineering, RMIT University, Melbourne, Australia, 5School of Health and Human Performance, Northern Michigan University, Marquette, MI, USA, 6 Sensory-Motor Systems Lab, ETH Zurich, Switzerland, 7Faculty of Physical Education and Sport, Charles University in Prague, Czech Republic, 8Department of Physical Education, School of Education, University of Cadiz, Puerto Real, Cadiz, Spain, 9Department of Health, Wellness, and Human Performance, Morehead State University, Morehead, KY, USA, 10University of Gloucestershire, School of Sport and Exercise, Gloucester, United Kingdom, 11Department of Neurological and Movement Sciences, University of Verona, Italy, 12 Aix-Marseille Université, CNRS, ISM UMR 7287, 13288, Marseille Cedex 09, France, 13CETAPS lab., Faculty of Sport Sciences, University of Rouen, Mont Saint Aignan, France 14Department of Sport, Exercise and Health, University of Basel, Basel, Switzerland, 15Dr.
    [Show full text]
  • Alpine Scrambling Program 2020 Student Manual Colorado Mountain Club Denver Group
    1 ALPINE SCRAMBLING PROGRAM 2020 STUDENT MANUAL COLORADO MOUNTAIN CLUB DENVER GROUP ASC Mission: To provide the skills necessary for CMC members to safely climb Colorado’s highest 100 peaks. 2 Rev: 11/18/2019 3 I. ALPINE SCRAMBLING PROGRAM: OVERVIEW AND GENERAL INFORMATION ALPINE SCRAMBLING COURSE Safety Lecture #1: Thu, May 21 Location: CMC Conference Room A Time: 6:00pm - 9:30pm Safety Lecture #2: Thu, May 28 Location: CMC Conference Room A Time: 6:00pm - 9:30pm Contingency Day: Wed, Jun 03 Location: CMC Conference Room A Time: 6:00pm - 9:30pm Skills Field Day: Students select Sat, June 6 or Sun, June 7 Location: TBD Time: 5:00am - 6:00pm Contingency Field Day in case of bad weather: Sat/Sun, June 13/June 14 5:00am Attendance at both Safety Lectures and the Skills Field Day are a prerequisite to participate in the Elective Scrambles field days. Within the current session there is no provision to make-up a missed Course event so please ensure you are available for these dates. ELECTIVE SCRAMBLES Throughout the summer, students that successfully complete the ASC Course will be provided the opportunity to participate with the Elective Scrambles. Successful completion of the three, progressively harder, Elective Scrambles will be required for the student to complete the ASC Program. The Elective Scrambles will be arranged so that the month of June will be dedicated to easier scrambles which will help the student immerse more gradually, as well as helping the instructor team determine suitability for the more challenging follow-on scrambles. July will be dedicated to scrambles of moderate difficulty and August will be focused on the harder more challenging scrambles.
    [Show full text]
  • Planning Your Fall Visit in THIS ISSUE
    National Park Service Visitor Guide U.S. Department of the Interior Joshua Tree National Park A planning guide for visitors to Joshua Tree National Park Fall 2007 Planning Your Fall Visit IN THIS ISSUE Entrance Fees even for a day trip. And, if you will be attending an evening Information 2 The park entrance fee is $15 per vehicle. It is good for seven program or camping, you will want to have additional warm Keys View Road 3 days. The cost of a Joshua Tree annual pass is $30. If you clothing to layer on, including gloves and a hat. A graph of the plan to visit several parks or other federal lands this year, an average monthly temperatures is located on page nine. Desert Glue 3 interagency annual pass is available for $80. Campgrounds 4 Keys View Road Campgrounds Although currently under construction (see page three What To See And Do 4 Black Rock, Cottonwood, and Indian Cove campsites are $15 for information about when the road is open during the Backcountry Roads 4 per night and Belle, Hidden Valley, Jumbo Rocks, Ryan, and construction period), this popular destination, perched on Backcountry Camping, White Tank campsites cost $10 per night. Reservations are the crest of the Little San Bernardino Mountains, provides available for Black Rock and Indian Cove and for all group panoramic views of the Coachella Valley and is well worth the Hiking, & Horseback Riding 5 sites. See page four for additional information. 20-minute drive from Park Boulevard down Keys View Road. Black Rock Canyon 5 The lookout is wheelchair accessible, or take the .2-mile-loop Ranger Programs trail up the ridge for especially nice views (see photo above).
    [Show full text]
  • Editorial...P. 2 National. . . P. 3 Regional...P. 4
    VERTICAL TIMES THE NATIONAL PUBLICATION OF THE ACCESS FUND VOLUME 62 | FEBRUARY 2005 EDITORIAL. .P. 2 NATIONAL . P. 3 REGIONAL . .P. 4-5 GRASSROOTS . .P. 6 BOULDER PROJECT . .P. 7 CORPORATE UPDATE . .P. 10 EVENTS, THANKS YOUS . .P. 11 ACCESS FUND AFFILIATES . .P. 12 Ice is Nice and will Suffice “Ice” climbing has taken many new turns and twists since weekend, we debated how to protect the area and quickly I began climbing leashless (yes leashless) with wooden shafts went further afield in search of more ice and fewer people. and “wart hogs” for protection. We thought we were mak- Through all of this we came to enjoy and respect both ing advances when we added leashes to our tools, but there the challenge of the medium as well our own limitations. were those amongst us who debated whether hanging on Avalanches and other forces of nature reinforced our respect and our tools was “aid climbing” or not. Today climbers do amaz- bond with our natural surroundings. We debated not only the ing things leashless, on rock, with points on the rear of their latest techniques and tools but also why had the Breach Wall on crampons and gymnastic moves that are Kilimanjaro, the Ice Window on Kenya, the Black couloir on the impressive to say the least. Grand and many other ice routes not formed again. As good One of the things I learned stewards of the land we continue to ask these ques- early on was that “ice tions. More and more of us enjoy “ice” climbing (in climbers never fall” and what ever form) and the Access Fund continues “full conditions” were to work hard to conserve access but we also not only fun but the need to continue questioning.
    [Show full text]