R U I N S O F DESERT CATHAY

PERSONAL NARRATIVE OE EXPLORATIONS IN CENTRAL ASIA AND WESTERNMOST CHINA BY M. AUREL STEIN

ILLUSTRATIONS

BENJAMIN BLOM New York/London First published 1912 reissued 1968 Benjamin Blom, Inc., Bronx, N.Y. 10452

L.C. Catalog Card No. 68-56900

Printed in U.S.A. by NOBLE OFFSET PRINTERS, INC. NEW YORK 3, N. Y. ILLUSTRATIONS VOLUME I

For list of illustrations turn to pages XXXI-XXXVIII of Volume I < I.

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ANCIENT BUDDHIST PAINTING ON SILK, SHOWING VAISRAVANA, DEMON-KING OF THE NORTHERN REGION, MOVING WITH DIVINE HOST ACROSS THE OCEAN.

DISCOVERED AT THE ‘CAVES OF THE THOUSAND BUDDHAS,’ TUN-HUANG.

(CHAP. LXVIII. SCALE, TWO-FIFTHS). VIEW FROM MALAKAND FORT, LOOKING NORTH INTO THE SWAT VALLEY. Open ground below, on left, marks the position of Crater Camp. 2. CHAKDARA FORT, SWAT VAI.LEV, SEEN FROM NORTH.

3. SHIKARAI HAMLET ABOVE DIR, WITH DIR LEVIES ON ROAD. RUIN OF OLD HINDU TEMPLE, GUMBAT, TALASII VALLEY. 5- RUIN OF KARWAN-1IALASI NEAR BOZAI-GUMBA2, LITTLE PAMIR. Ghajab Beg (Karaul Beg) on left; Mubarak Shah (Ak-sakal) on right. i. PATHAN AND GUJAR CARRIERS COLLECTED AT ROLAND I, ABOVE DIR; DIR LEVIES ON FLANKS. 7. VIEW OF LOWARAI FASS FROM GUJAR POST. The arrow indicates position of pass and snow-filled gorge leading to it. n o a a a w o C5 o>— o« o 55 H

a O a>< a a a Q H a a a 3 a a o cj a a < a s < a o OT Q a a o z a II. BASHGALI KAFIRS SETTLED AT AYl'N, CH1TRAI

12. CHITRALI VILLAGERS COLLECTED FOR ANTUROTOMETRICAL EXAMINATION. 13- TIRICI-I-MIR PEAK, SEEN FROM BELOW CHITRAL AGENCY. 14- MOSQUE IN GROVE OE CIIINARS (BAZAR-MASJID), NEAR CIIITRAL AGENCY. IS- BASHGALI KAFIRS, ANTHROPOMETRICALLY EXAMINED AT CI1ITRAL AGENCY. l6. OXUS VALLEY NEAR SARHAI), WITH RANGE TOWARDS GREAT I'AMIK, SEEN FROM KANSIR SPUR. The fields of Sarhad on alluvial terrace above right river bank.

17. VILLAGERS OF BU.NI, MASTUJ, WITH KHAN SAHIB PIR BAKIISH AND KURBAN ON EXTREME RIGHT. DUR KHAN, GOVERNOR OF MASTUJ, SEATED IN CENTRE WITH HIS TWO SONS; KHAN SAHIB PIR BAKHSH ON HIS RIGHT, AND MASTUJ I ATTENDANTS. 20. PARLOUR IN OBAIDULLAIl’S HOUSE, MIRAGRAM. Ceiling with sky-light of characteristic construction ; below this, open fire-place ; carpets of local make. 21 . DEFILE OF DARBAND, YARKHUN VALLEY, WITH RUINED WATCH-TOWERS, SEEN FROM NORTH. i

22. TOP OF DARKOT PASS, LOOKING TO NORTH-WEST ACROSS DARKOT GLACIER TOWARDS INDUS-OXUS WATERSHED. Small specks of black on glacier below arrow indicate Surveyor's party.

23. ON THE BAROGHIL SADDLE, LOOKING TOWARDS OXUS VALLEY. Wakhi carriers relieve a floundering pony of its load. Approach to Darkot Pass. Kalandar-ghum Glacier. Koyo-zum Peak, 22,600 ft.

.. VIEW FROM APPROACH OF BAROGHIL SADDLE TO SOUTH-WEST, TOWARDS DARKOT RANGE. .^yV '•

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25. KIRGHIZ SHIFTING FELT TENT AT GUMHAZ-OTEK.

26. AFGHAN ESCORr WITH BAGGAGE PREPARING TO CROSS BA1IARAK STREAM. Colonel Shirin-dil Khan on extreme right. 27. VIEW ACROSS LAKE CHAKMAKTIN TOWARDS AK-TASH, LITTLE PAMIR.

2S. IN THE FELT TENT OF MUHAMMAD ISA, KIRGHIZ HEAD-MAN OF AFGHAN PAMIRS. A, B. Afghan Officers. C. Muhammad Isa. 29. ONUS SOURCE GLACIERS SEEN FROM MOUTH OF WAKIHIR VALLEY.

30. WAKHI HEAD-MEN AND CARRIERS AT KOK-TOROK. Mubarak Shah, * Karaul Beg,' Talmish, and ‘ Dash’ in foreground. I I t

SOURCE GLACIERS. SOURCE

PANJA VALLEY, LOOKING TOWARDS WAKHJIR PASS AND ONUS AND PASS WAKHJIR TOWARDS LOOKING VALLEY, PANJA

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,. HEAD OF AB OF ,. HEAD 3 33- HUNZA DAK RUNNERS (ON LEFT) AND SARIKOLI FRONTIER GUARDS, WITH THEIR CHILDREN, AT MINTAKA KARAUL. 34- CHINESE FORT OF TASH-KURGHAN SEEN FROM NEAR 1-EFT BANK OF RIVER.

35. RUINED WALL AND BASTION OF KIZ-KURGHAN SEEN FROM SOUTH-WEST. 36. OUR TRAIN OF YAKS AND PONIES CROSSING THE KASHKA-SU D.WVAN. VIEW TO SOUTH.

37- KIRGHIZ HEAD-MEN AND FOLLOWERS IN FRONT OF FELT TENT, TOILE-BULAN, 38. IIASSAN AKHUN, MY HEAD CAMEL-MAN

41. MUHAMMADAN SHRINE AND CEMETERY ON ROAD TO KASHGAR. 42. RECEPTION BY HINDU TRADERS AT B1GIL, NEAR YARKAND. Pandit Butba Mai fourth in front, from left. 1 Pao-t'ai' in background.

43. BAZAR GROUP BY CANAL BANK, NEAR KARGIIALIK, A B 44. SURVEYOR RAI RAM SINGH (A) WITH JASVANT SINGH (B) STARTING FROM KOK-YAR.

45- PAKHPU HILLMEN ANTHROPOMETRICALLY EXAMINED AT K6K-YAR, 46. FOOD OFFERINGS TO THE SACKED TIGEONS AT SHRINE OF KUM-KARAT PADSHAIIIM.

47- MOSQUE AND AVENUE OK POPLARS NEAR HORACHE, KHOTAN. 4S. ENTRANCE TO BAZAR OF BORACHE, KHOTAN OASIS.

49. T’ANG TA-jf.N, MILITARY AMBAN OF KHOTAN, WITH HIS CHILDREN AND ATTENDANTS. 50. BADRUDDIN KHAN, ‘AK-SAKAL’ OF INDIAN AND AFGHAN 51. AHMAD ISHAN (ANDIJAN! ‘AK-SAKAL’), AND ABDULLAH KHAN- TRADERS AT KHOTAN. (AFGHAN TRADER) AT KERIYA. See p. 262. *

52. 4 HAJI’ AKHUN BEG, MY HOST AT KHOTAN. 53- TESTING RAFT OF INFLATED SKINS ON A TANK OF NAK-HAGU.

54. TANK AND ARBOUR NEAR RUKNUDDIN MA7.AR, YOTKAN. For the interior of this shrine see Fig. 312. 55. MOSQUE WITH TANK NEAR WEST GATE OF KHOTAN TOWN.

56. IN TOPCHA GORGE, SOUTH OF ULUG1IAT PASS. The few trees here arc Toghraks (wild poplars). 57. HEAD OF NISSA VALLEY SEEN FROM TAM-OGHIL, ABOVE TOR. Loess-covered old moraine ridges in foreground. I 59- VIEW OF OTRUGIiUL GLACIER, LOOKING TOWARDS SOUTH-EAST. Photograph taken from moraine at elevation of about 16.000 feet above sea-level; joins Fig. 60 near line A b. 6o. VIEW OF OTRUGHUL GLACIER, LOOKING TOWARDS EAST. Photograph taken from moraine at elevation of about 16,000 feet above sea-level; joins Fig. 59 near line A B. 6i. ‘BRIDGE’ ACROSS KASII RIVER ABOVE KARANGIIU-TAGH. In foreground baggage being hoisted across by wire rope. KARANGHU-TAGH. 63. SNOUT OF DETRITUS-COVERED GLACIER AT HEAD OF HUSAT VALLEY.

64. TAGHUK FAMILY FROM KARANGHU-TAGH, AT FELT TENT IN HUSAT VALLEY. On extreme left the old woman from Omsha.

66. VIEW UP YURUNG-KASH VALLEY FROM KARA-KIR SPUR.

67. VIEW FROM KARA-KIR SPUR ACROSS YURUNG-KASH RIVER GORGE TOWARDS CHOMSHA VALLEY. A track is seen leading along slopes of spur in centre. Below a short bend of river is just visible.

70. AMBAN’S GUESTS FEASTING ON TERRACE LEADING TO ‘MY’ PAVILION IN NAR-BAGH.

71. CH’fi TA-J£N, AMBAN OF KHOTAN, WITH LOCAL 11EGS. On extreme right Islam Beg, Beg of Kayash. 72. ROZE AKHUN’S BAND OF KHOTAN ‘TREASURE-SEEKERS.’ Roze Akhun on extreme right.

73. RUINED STUPA OF RAWAK SEEN FROM DUNE ABOVE SOUTH-WEST WALL OF QUADRANGLE. 74- ERODED REMAINS OF TEMPLE RUIN AT KINE-TOKMAK. Arrows mark original ground level and lowest masonry course of south-east and south-west walls.

75- ENTRANCE GATE TO PILGRIMAGE SHRINE OF IMAM JA’l'AR TAIRAN, CIIIRA. 76. REMAINS OF STUCCO RELIEVOS FROM WALL DECORATION OF VARIOUS BUDDHIST RUINS NEAR KHOTAN. Scale, three-tenths. 1, 3. Figures of flying Gandharvis, trom Khadalik. 2. Head and breast of haloed Buddha, from Ak-terek. 4,7. Applique figures of Buddha seated within halo and lotus, from Khadalik and Ak-terek respectively. 5, 8. Figures of standing Buddha in ‘protecting’ pose, from Khadalik and Kara-sai respectively. 6. Figure of divine attendant in act of worship, from Khadalik. 77- LARGE FRAGMENT OF FRESCOED WALL FROM BUDDHIST TEMPLE, KHADALIK, WITH STENCILLED BUDDHA FIGURES. The foot-measure in top left comer indicates the scale.

78. INTERIOR OF SMALL RUINED DWELLING EXCAVATED TO THE NORTH OF MAIN TEMPLE SITE, KHADALIK. Aziz, the Ladaki servant, seated on bench near ancient fireplace. 79- WOODEN COLUMN WITH MOULDINGS EXCAVATED IN ROOM NEAR MAIN SHRINE, KHADALIK. Chiang-ssfi-yeh and Ibrahim Beg in background supervising diggers ; Roze Akhun on right

So. MY SEVEN CAMELS FROM KERIYA, IN WINTER DRESS, MARCHING IN GRAVEL DESERT. squatting.

81. MY DIGGERS FROM NIVA JUNGLE IN ENDERENEAR RIVER.

Ibrahim. • the miller,' second from left, standing ; next to himon right,Mullah, the carpenter ; Rustam, third from right,

ULfi S2. KHOTAN PILGRIMS RETURNING FROM IMAM JA’FAR SADIE’S SHRINE.

S3. ROW OF DEAD MULBERRY TREES IN ANCIENT ORCHARD NEAR RUIN N. XVIII., NIYA SITE. Under first tree Naik Ram Singh with ' Dash'; to left a sand-cone with dead tamarisk. 84. NORTH ROOMS OF RUIN N. XIII., NIYA SITE, AFTER EXCAVATION. In foreground remains of ancient household furniture and implements. The photograph shows the construction of wall with timber framework and wattled matting. S5. REMAINS OF HOUSEHOLD FURNITURE AND IMPLEMENTS (3RD CENTURY A.D.), EXCAVATED IN RUIN N. XIII., NIYA SITE.

A. Eating-tray with ornamented border. 8. Decorated double bracket and jar. C. Pitchfork and mouse-trap.

86. ROOM EXCAVATED IN RUIN N. XXVI., NIYA SITE, WITH ANCIENT CARVED CUPBOARD IN WOOD. S7. RUIN OF SAND-BURIED DWELLING, N. XX., NEAR NORTHERN END OF N1YA SITE, BEFORE EXCAVATION. Trunks of dead mulberry trees in foreground. i

88. ROOM IN RUINED DWELLING, N. XX., NIYA SITE, IN COURSE OF EXCAVATION.

90. RUIN OF ANCIENT RESIDENCE, N. XXIV., NIYA SITE, SEEN FROM REMAINS OK DEAD ARBOUR ON EAST.

91. DOOR WITH ORNAMENTAL WOOD-CARVING IN SAND-BURIED RUIN OF DWELLING N. XII., NIYA SITE. 92. REMAINS OF ORNAMENTAL WOOD-CARVING. MAINLY FROM RUINS OF NIYA SITE. Scale, one-seventh for Nos. 1 -8; one-sixteenth for Nos. 9-13. 1, 2, 6, 7, 8. Portions of cupboard decorated in Gandhara style. 3, 5. Wooden stamps with ornamental designs. 4. Turned leg of chair or cupboard. 10,11. Double brackets or architraves with floral ornament in Gandhara style. 9, 12,13. Architraves of later design from ruins at and near Khadalik. 93- CENTRAL HALL AND OFFICE ROOM IN RUINED RESIDENCE N. XXIV., NIYA SITE. AFTER EXCAVATION.

A marks spot where hidden archive was discovered below floor ; on the right of it Rustam, the digger. r

94. KHAROSHTHI DOCUMENT ON RECTANGULAR DOUBLE TABLET, FROM HIDDEN ARCHIVE IN N. XXIV. Scale, one-half. A. Double tablet fastened and sealed, B. Obverse of under-tablet, c. Reverse of covering tablet. 95. CLAY IMPRESSIONS OF INTAGLIO SEALS ON KHAROSHTHI DOCUMENTS FOUND AT NIYA SITE. Scale, two-thirds. 1. 2, A. Impressions from classical seals showing figures of Pallas Promachos, Hermes, Zeus, and a bearded head. 3, 5. From Oriental seals showing classical influence. 6. From seal of Chinese commander at Shan-shan, in Chinese lapidary characters. KHAROSHTHI DOCUMENTS ON DOUBLE-WEDGE TABLETS EROM RUIN N. XIII., NIYA SITE. Scale, three-sevenths. i. Reverse of complete double-wedge tablet with fastening intact. B. Doublc-wbdgc tablet opened after cutting string passed under clay seal. C. Obverse of double-wedge tablet retaining seal and string intact. 97- KHAROSHTHI RECORDS ON OBLONG AND LABEL-SHAPED WOODEN TABLETS FOUND AT NIVA SITE. Scale, one-hall. DOUBLE BRACKET IN WOOD. 99. RUINED DWELLING, N. XXVIII., ON ERODED CLAY TERRACE, NIVA SITE. Fence of ancient garden and more erosion * witnesses' in foreground. Figure of man in centre indicates extent of erosion.

100. RUIN OF ANCIENT DWELLING, N. XXXVI., AT SOUTHERN END OF NIYA SITE, IN COURSE OF EXCAVATION.

102. INTERIOR OF RUINED VILLAGE AT BILEL-KONG HAN, SEEN FROM CIRCUMVALLATIOX ON NORTH-EAST. 1

that of Buddhisttemple in centre. B

: ; 104- REMAINS OF ANCIENT WALL ON EROSION ‘ WITNESS,’ ENDERE SITE.

The line A B marks original ground level. In background portion of ancient walled enclosure.

105. RUINED TOWER WITH REMAINS OF WIND-ERODED DWELLING IN FOREGROUND, ENDERE SITE. 107- ‘DASTARKHAN’ OFFERED ON DESERT ROUTE TO CHARCHAN. On left Chiang-ssfi-yeh and my caravan-men enjoying the treat brought by Beg from Charchan. IOS. WESTERN GROUP OF RUINED STUPA AND TEMPLES, MIRAN SITE.

A. Stupa mound. B. Buddhist shrine M. V. C. Buddhist shrine M. HI.

109. LIAO TA-LAO-YE, CHINESE MAGISTRATE OF CHARKLIK, IIO. SOUTH FACE OF RUINED FORT, WITH CENTRAL BASTION, MIRAN SITE. For scale observe figure of man at foot of bastion.

HI. I.OPLIK FISHERMEN AT REED HUT, ABDAL. On extreme left standing the young hunter who accompanied Turdi into the desert (p. 407). 112. RUIN OF ANCIENT STUPA, LOP-NOR SITE, FROM SOUTH-EAST. In foreground remains of ancient dwelling, LA. ix., on wind-eroded terrace covered with dead tamarisk. i

GROUND.

ERODED

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NOR SITE, ACROSS WIND ACROSS SITE, NOR

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Ruined dwellingin marks foreground. LA. ix. A B line of joining with Fig. 114.

EAST FROM RUINED STUPA, LOP STUPA, RUINED FROM EAST

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113. VIEW TO THE SOUTH THE TO 113. VIEW 114- VIEW TO THE SOUTH FROM RUINED STUPA, LOP-NOR SITE, ACROSS WIND-ERODED GROUND. Part of ruin LA. I. in foreground. A B marks line of joining with Fig. 113.

n6. REMAINS OF ANCIENT WOVEN FABRICS FROM LOP-NOR SITE. Scale, one-third. 1. Hemp shoe from ruin LA. vi. 2. Slipper from LB. iv., in wool material, woven in coloured pattern. 3. Small bale of ancient silk (see p. 381). 4. Fragment of pile carpet in wool from LA. 1. 117. SMALL ANTIQUES, MAINLY IN METAL, COLLECTED FROM WIND-ERODED GROUND AT LOP-NOR SITE. Scale, two-sevenths. 1. Wooden comb. 2. Signet ring in bronze. 3,4, 21. Fragments of bronze mirrors with relievo decoration. 5, 8,19. Metal clasps. 6,11,16. Decorated metal objects of uncertain use. 7. Small bronze bell. 9. Ivory die. 10. Fragment of bronze buckle, perhaps intended for cloisonni work. 12-15. Copper coins of Han period. 17,18. Bronze arrow-heads. 20,22. Lignite seals. 23. Lamp in burnt clay.

1X8. LARGE REFUSE HEAP IN CENTRE OF ANCIENT STATION, LOP-NOR SITE, IN COURSE OF EXCAVATION. Mullah, of Abdal, on extreme right; Ibrahim Beg supervising diggers. rig. ANCIENT CHINESE DOCUMENTS ON WOODEN TABLETS. FROM RUINS OF THE NIYA AND LOP-NOR SITES. AND OF THE TUN-HUANG LIMES. Scale, two-thirds. 1,11, from N. xiv., Niya Site; 2,13,16. from LA. vt., Lop-nor Site; 3-10,12,14,15, from various watch-stations of ancient Chinese Limes. Nos. 3,16 arc covers with seal-sockets; No. 14 is a ‘ shaving.’ 120. REMAINS OK ANCIENT BUDDHIST SHRINE LB. II., LOP-NOR SITE, BEFORE CLEARING.

121. RUIN OF SMALL STUPA NEAR SHRINE LB. II., LOP-NOR SITE, RISING ON ‘YARDANG’ WHICH WIND EROSION IS UNDERCUTTING. — 5-7,10. Ornamented beams and posts. 2. Balusters supporting small double brackets. 3. Panel with decayed relievo representation of seated Buddhas. 4. Large rosette filled with lotus. 8. Fragment of geometrical trellis work. 9. Portion of ornamental door frame. I

123. PORTION OI' RUINED MOUSE LB. IV., LOP-NOR SITE, SEEN FROM EAST, BEFORE CLEARING.

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I24. HALL IN RUINED HOUSE LB. IV., LOP-NOR SITE, WITH TURNED WOODEN PILLARS, AFTER EXCAVATION. 125. FRAGMENTS OF DECORATIVE WOOD-CARVING, PARTLY WITH CLASSICAL MOTIFS, FROM RUINED HOUSE LI3. IV.. LOP-NOR SITE. Scale, one-fourth. 2. Painted arm-rest, carved in the round, representing composite figure in style derived from Hellenistic art. 3. Lacquered arm-rest, representing grotesque beast in Persepolitan style. 126. CAMELS BEING LOADED FOR START FROM LOP-NOR SITE.

I27. WIND-ERODED CI.AY TERRACES (YARDANGS) RISING AMONG DUNES, LOP-NOR DESERT. 129- CAMELS CROSSING DA WAN OF DUNES, I.OP-NOR DESERT, NEW YEAR, 1907 ‘31- CIRCUMVALLATION OF SMALL FORT OF MERDEK-SHAHR, OVERGROWN WITH REEDS. 133. MY TENT AT SHAH-TOKHTANING-KOLI, BY CHARCHAN RIVER. On left, Ibrahim Beg of Keriya ; on right, Loplik with cyclometer. 134- SOUTH-EAST CORNER OF INTERIOR OF MIRAN FORT, IN COURSE OF EXCAVATION.

135. CAMP HEI.OW WALLS OF RUINED FORT, MIRAN. On right of Chiang-sstl-yeh's tent a Mongol visitor (see page 467). 1 ' •>‘S' •...,■. v.*-v-v/ \ - ■ ^'r'Ov*y<)rsr*J#7/

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136. OLD TIBETAN DOCUMENTS, ON WOOD AND PAPER, EXCAVATED FROM RUINED QUARTERS OF MIRAN FORT. 1,2. Documents on paper. 4. Religious text on paper. 3,5-17. Records on wood, complete or fragmentary, some showing sockets for clay sealings. 137- TRADING CARAVAN PASSING MIKAN SITE EN ROUTE FOR TUN-HUANG.

13S. REMAINS OF SCAl.F. ARMOUR AND MISCELLANEOUS OBJECTS FOUND IN TIBETAN FORT, MIRAN. Scale, two-sevenths. 24, 26Al,c. Scales of lacquered leather from suits of armour, the last two showing method of lacing outside and inside. 25. Horn comb. 27. Felt pouch. 28, 29. Chinese copper coins of T’ang period. 30. Shaft of arrow. 31. Wooden key.

. 139- BASE OF ANCIENT BUDDHIST SHRINE M. II., MIKAN SITE, FROM NORTH-EAST, AFTER EXCAVATION. 140. REMAINS OK COI.OSSAI. FIGURES OF SEATED BUDDHAS IN NORTH-EAST PASSAGE OF RUINED SHRINE M. II., MIRAN SITE.

141. STUCCO HEAD OF COLOSSAL BUDDHA FIGURE, AS DISCOVERED BETWEEN STATUE BASES IN RUINED SHRINE M. II., MIRAN SITE. 142. RUIN OF DOMED BUDDHIST SIIRINE ENCLOSING STUPA M. III., MIRAN SITE, SEEN FROM EAST. 143- FRESCO PIECE FROM FRIEZE OF RUINED BUDDHIST SHRINE M. III., MIRAN SITE. Scale, one-sixth. The piece, originally found in several fragments, represents Gautama liodhisattva in teaching pose, with princely worshipper. Painted cn background of Pompeian red. 144- RUINED MOUND CONTAINING REMAINS OF BUDDHIST SHRINE M. V., MIRAN SITE, BEFORE EXCAVATION, SEEN FROM SOUTH-EAST.

145. INTERIOR OF ROTUNDA AND STUPA IN RUINED BUDDHIST SHRINE M. V., MIRAN SITE. AFTER EXCAVATION. 146. PORTION OF FRESCO FRIEZE AND DADO ON SOUTH-EAST WALL OF ROTUNDA IN BUDDHIST SHRINE M.V.. MIRAN SITE. The frieze shows Prince Vcssantara with his wife and children leaving the palace gate (p. 490). In the dado below are seen a girl playing the mandoline, a garland-carrying figure, and part of bearded male bust. 147- PORTION OF FRESCO FRIEZE AND DADO ON SOUTH WALL OF ROTUNDA IN BUDDHIST SHRINE M. V., MIRAN SITE. The friere represents Prince Vcssantara making an offering of the magical white elephant (pp. 487. 45°)- In the dado the bust of an Indian prince between two garland-carrying Putti. Inch-measure on right below. IN BUDDHIST SHRINE M. V., MIRAN SITE. 149- SPRING OF LOWAZA WITH ICE SHEET AT FOOT OF OLD LAKE SHORE AND VIEW NORTH-EASTWARDS ACROSS SALT-ENCRUSTED LOP-NOR BED.

I50. CONVOY OF ANTIQUES STARTING FROM AI1DAL FOR KASHGAR. On left Karim Akhun, one of the ‘veterans '; in the middle Turdi, the Dak-man. 152. ERODED CLAY TERRACE NEAR WESTERN EDGE OF OLD TERMINAL BASIN OF SU-LO HO. The small figure of the man standing at the foot of the terrace helps to give an idea of its height. 153- RUIN OF ANCIENT WATCH-TOWER T. III., NEAR WESTERN END OF TUN-HUANG LIMES. The spot where the first discovery of an early Chinese record on wood was made is marked by the two men in foreground.

I54. RUIN OF ANCIENT CHINESE FORT T. XIV., MARKING THE POSITION OF THE ‘JADE GATE,’ SEEN FROM NORTIl-F.AST. Vf

Plate IV. FRESCOES OF WINGED FIGURES FROM DADO OF RUINED BUDDHIST SHRINE M.III.,

EXCAVATED AT M1RAN. SITE.

(CHAP, XU., XLII. SCALE, ONE-FIFTH).

A B marks line where the two fresco panels join. o « a

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a ILLUSTRATIONS VOLUME II

For list of illustrations to pages XI-XX1 of Volume II

156. RUINS OF ANCIENT CHINESE MAGAZINE T. XVIII., TUN-HUANG LIMES, SEEN FROM SOUTH. The figures of men standing at different points of the structure serve to indicate its size. 157- BARREN HILL RANGE EAST OF CH’IEN-FO-TUNG VALLEY, SEEN FROM SOUTH END OF SITE. 158. MIDDLE GROUP OF ‘THOUSAND BUDDHAS' GROTTOES (B) AND BEGINNING OF SOUTHERN GROUP (A). 159- ROWS OF CAVE-TEMPLES, SHOWING DECAYED PORCHES. NEAR MIDDLE OF SOUTHERN GROUP. 'THOUSAND BUDDHAS' SITE. i6o. INTERIOR OF CAVE-TEMPLE CH. VIII., 'THOUSAND BUDDHAS' SITE. SHOWING FRESCO DECORATION OF WALLS AND ROOF.

■ - 161. STUCCO IMAGE GROUP. REPRESENTING BUDDHA BETWEEN DISCIPLES. BODHISATTVAS. AND DVA RAPA LAS. IN CAVE-TEMPLE CH. III., •THOUSAND BUDDHAS' SITE. !

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J5 5; „ « d 8 < o ? 2 SJ 5 e 2 o 35 s 164. REMAINS OF ANCIENT WATCH-TOWER T. XXVII., TUN-1IUANG L/MES. The ruin stands on a natural clay terrace of which the continuation is seen on right. Naik Ram Singh in foreground.

165. REMAINS OF ANCIENT liORDER WALL, BETWEEN LOW DUNES, EAST OF TOWER T. XXXV., TUN-HUANG LIMES. The Chinese labourer on left stands on surface of low gravel mound. 166. RUINED HOMESTEAD, ARANDONED TO DESERT ABOUT SIXTY YEARS ACO, AT KUAN-TSOU, NORTH OF NAN-HU.

167. VILLAGE SHRINE AT NAN-MU, WITH SCIIOOL-ROOM ON RIGHT. Chiang-sstt-ych in front of shrine. 169. RUINED WATCH-TOWER, T. XII., ON ANCIENT CHINESE LIMES, NORTH-WEST OF TUN-IIUANG. 170. RUINED WATCH-TOWER, T. IX., ON ANCIENT CHINESE LIMES N.W. OF TUN-HUANG. i 171. GUARD-ROOM BUIl.T AGAINST NORTH-EAST CORNER OE ANCIENT WATCH-TOWER T. VIII., TCN-llCANG LIMES, AFTER EXCAVATION. On left is seen the narrow gate leading into the quarters of the watch-station, with sockets to hold bars of door ; on adjoining wall surface the rough outline sketch of a camel; on extreme right steps of stairs once leading to roof of quarters and thence to top of tower.

I73. ANCIENT l’OTTERY AND IMPLEMENTS EXCAVATED FROM RUINED WATCH-STATIONS ON TUN-IIUANG LIMES. Scale, one-fifth. 1. Wooden beating-stick. 2. Broomstick of reeds. 3. Iron hoe. 4. Wedge of wood inscribed with two Chinese characters. 5. Pottery jar. 6. Broken piece of pottery mended with leather thong passed through holes. *73. *74- ANCIENT IMPLEMENTS AND ARTICLES OF EQUIPMENT, EXCAVATED MAINLY FROM RUINED WATCH-STATIONS OF EARLY CHINESE BORDER LINE, TUN-HUANG. Scale, one-fifth. 1. Ornamented wooden tent-peg. 2. Foot-measure with decimal division into inches. 3. Wooden fire-stick. 4. Polished wood handle. 5. Ivory-topped head of baton. 6, 7. Spatulas. 8, 17. Carved wooden hooks (see P- 95)- 3. Howl of lacquered wood. 10. Hemp shoe. 11. Wooden key. 12, 20. Parts of wooden locks. 13. Wooden hoot-last. 14. Fragment of calcined reed fascine (see p. no). 15. Wooden socket for attaching seal. 16. Bronze arrow-head. 18. Block of wood for holding tapers. 19. Wooden eating-bowl. 175- STRETCH OF ANCIENT BORDER-WALL, BUILT OK LAYERS OF REED FASCINES AND CLAY, EAST OF TOWER T. XIII., TUN-HUANG LIMES.

176. REMAINS OF ANCIENT BORDER-WALL ADJOINING SALT MARSH, TO WEST OF TOWER T. XIV. A., TUN-HUANG LIMES, SEEN FROM SOUTH. STAIRS,' TUN-HUANG LIMES. I7S. REMAINS OF ANCIENT WATCH-TOWER, T. XX., OVERLOOKING LAKE WEST OF KIIARA-NOR TUN-HUANG LIMES.

179. HILLOCK WITH REMAINS MARKING POSITION OF ANCIENT ‘JADE GATE’ STATION NEAR FORT T. XIV., TUN-HUANG LIMES. ISO. RUIN OI' ANCIENT WATCH-TOWER, T. VI. A., ON WESTERN FLANK OF TUN-HUANG LIMES, SEEN FROM SOUTH. The lower is built on an eroded clay ridge, and on right overlooks a depression with Toghraks and reed beds.

l8l. RUIN OF ANCIENT WATCH-TOWER, T. IV. C., ON WESTERN FLANK OF TUN-HUANG LIMES, WITH VIEW TO NORTH. On left an eroded clay terrace with deep-cut Nullah. Across depression with Toghraks and tamarisks is seen in distance an isolated clay terrace (A), bearing remains of ruined watch-tower, T. iv. A. iSa. REMAINS OF ANCIENT WATCH-TOWER AND QUARTERS, T. VI. I!., TUN-IIUANG UMES, BEFORE EXCAVATION, SEEN FROM WEST.

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183. RUBBISH-STREWN SLOPE BELOW RUINED WATCH-TOWER T. VI. B., IN COURSE OF EXCAVATION. The splintered piece of timber held by labourer marks the spot where hundreds of Chinese records on wood, all of 1st century B.C., were discovered close to surface. i8s- TEMPLE COURT AT ‘CRESCENT LAKE,’ TUN-HUANG. 186. CLIFFS WITH MAIN CAVE-TEMPLES OF ‘THOUSAND BUDDHAS’ SITE, SEEN FROM WEST. 1S7. WANG TAO-SHIH, TAOIST PRIEST AT -THOUSAND BUDDHAS' SITE, TUN-HUANG. CELLA AND PORCH OF WANG TAO-SHIH’S CAVE-TEMPLE, ‘THOUSAND BUDDHAS’ SITE, TUN-HUANG.

On extreme right tlic locked door-cut chapel, leading previously to the rock walled up, where the hidden library of MSS. was discovered.

In foreground MS. bundlesnation. taken Theout forimages exami on platform of cclla are modern. TEMPLE, REPRESENTING ADVENTURES OK IISUAN-TSANG. ‘THOUSAND BUDDHAS’ SITE. Wang Tao-shih standing on left. igi. OLD CHINESE MANUSCRIPTS AND BLOCKPRINTS FROM WALLED-UP TEMPLE LIBRARY OF 'THOUSAND BUDDHAS' SITE. Scale, one-fifih. 1. Complete Buddhist manuscript roll, T'ang period. 2, 3. Manuscripts of religious texts in book form. 4. Booklet made up of ink-rubbings from inscription. 5. Block-printed sheet with Buddhist picture and prayer. 6. Roll of block-printed Buddhist text with frontispiece from wood-engraving, dated 864 A.n. 192. ANCIENT MANUSCRIPTS IN SANSKRIT. CENTRAL - ASIAN BRAHMI, SOGDIAN. MANICIIAEAN- TURKISH. RUNIC TURKI, UIGUR, TIBETAN, FROM WALLED-UP TEMPLE LIBRARY, • THOUSAND BUDDHAS,' TUN-HUANG. Scale, one-seventh. 1. Sanskrit Prajua-paramita text on palm leaves. 2. Roll with Manichaean ‘Confession of Sins’ in early Turkish. 3. Book in Runic Turki. 4, 6. Uigur texts in book form. 5. Polhi in Central-Asian Brahmi script. 7. lext in cursive Central-Asian Brahmi written on reverse of Chinese MS. roll. 8. Roll with Sogdian text. 9. Leaf of Tibetan Buddhist Potlii. 193- GIGANTIC ROLL OF PAPER, WITH SANSKRIT AND • UNKNOWN LANGUAGE1 TEXTS IN BRAHMI SCRIPT, FROM WALLED-UP TEMPLE LIBRARY, •THOUSAND BUDDHAS,1 TUN-HUANG. Scale, one-fifth.

A shows the roll, which is over seventy feet long, partially opened. B shows the silk painting on lop of outer side. BUDDHAS, 195- PAINTED SILK BANNERS. OF T'ANG PERIOD. REPRESENTING BODMI- SATTVAS. FROM WALLED-UP TEMPLE LIBRARY. ‘THOUSAND BUDDHAS,' TUN-HUANG.

Scale, one-sixth. 196. MODERN STUCCO IMAGES IN CHINESE STYLE, REPRESENTING HSUAN-TSANG AS AN AR1IAT, WITH ATTENDANTS, IN A CAVE-TEMPI.E OF THE ‘THOUSAND BUDDHAS,’ TUN-HUANG.

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200. STUCCO IMAGES OF BUDDHA WITH DISCIPLES AND BODIIISATTVAS. PARTLY RESTORED, IN ALCOVE OF A SMALLER CAVE-TEMPLE, 'THOUSAND BUDDHAS,' TUN-HUANG.

202. FRESCO COMPOSITION ON WALL OF CAVE-TEMPLE, ‘THOUSAND BUDDHAS,’ TUN-HUANG, SHOWING SCENE IN BUDDHIST HEAVEN. For details see ii. p. 226. 203- FRESCOES IN NORTH-WEST CORNER OF LARGE CAVE-TEMPLE CM. VIII., - THOUSAND BUDDHAS.* TUN-HUANG. For details see ii. p. 228.

? 204. FRESCO COMPOSITION REPRESENTING BUDDHIST STORIES, ON WEST WALL OF LARGE CAVE-TEMPLE CH. VIII., ‘THOUSAND BUDDHAS,' TUN-HUANG. For details sec ii. p. 228. THOUSAND BUDDHAS, SHOWING BUDDHA ON CAR. For details see ii. p. 229. 206. FRESCO COMPOSITIONS IN NORTH-WEST CORNER OF LARGE CAVE-TEMPLE CH. XVI., 'THOUSAND BUDDHAS.' TUN-HUANG. On left, representation of ‘ wind scene.' For details see ii. p. 230. 207. FRESCO COMPOSITION IN SOUTH-WEST CORNER OF LARGE CAVE-TEMPLE CH. XVI., 'THOUSAND BUDDHAS,1 TUN-HUANG. In centre Buddha or Bodhisattva raising fan. For details see ii. p. 230. 20S. WIND-ERODED WAI.I.S AT NORTH-EAST CORNER OF RUIN HD TOWN, AN-HSI.

209. WANG TA-LAO-YE, MAGISTRATE OF TUN-IIUANG, WITH Ills WIFE AND MOTHER. 211. GATE PAVILION OF OLD TEMPLE IN CIl’lAO-TZO VILLAGE. In front carts loaded with our baggage. 212. RUINED STUPA AT OLD TOWN OF CH'IAO-TZU, SEEN FROM SOUTH.

2I4. CAVE-TEMPLES OF THE ‘MYRIAD BUDDHAS,’ ON RIGHT BANK OF SHIH-PAO-CHENG STREAM.

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217. HASSAN AKIIUN PACKING CAMEL AT SU-CIII-CH’OAN SPRING, 2 iS. VIEW SOUTH-WEST TOWARDS SNOWY MAIN RANGE FROM CH’ANG-MA VILLAGE.

2ig. INTERIOR OF WALLED VILLAGE OF CH’ANG-MA, LOOKING TO NORTH-WEST.

The large temple near west wall served for our quarters. 221. FORTIFIED VILLAGE AT CH’ANG-MA OASIS, WITH VIEW TO SOUTH-EAST TOWARDS SU-I.O IIO, 222. WATCH-TOWER OF MODERN GUARD-STATION AT TA-HAN-CHUANG, AT FOOT OF NAN-SHAN.

A 223. SEGMENT OF ANCIENT BORDER WALL NORTH OF SU-CHOU. The figure in Chinese costume above A is Father Essems. 224. THE CHIA-YU-KUAN GATE OK THE 4 GREAT WALL,’ SEEN FROM SOUTH-WEST.

225. PAVILION OVER INNER WEST GATE OF CHIA-YU-KUAN, WITH VIEW ACROSS INTERIOR OF CIRCUMVALUATION, 226. HAO-SHAN-K’OU GORGE WITH RUINED WALLS INTENDED TO CLOSE PASSAGE. On left, remnant of ancient wall (A) with parapet facing east; on right, battlemented wall of later origin (8) facing west.

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227. TEMPLE OF KUAN-YIN, OR AVALOKITESVARA, WITHIN EAST GATE OF CHIA-YU-KUAN. 229. GARDEN AND TEMPLE COURT AT CHIU-CHUAN, THE ‘SPRING OF WINE,’ SU-CIIOU. The group of trees on left hides the temple, used as ' my' reception hall. I V

230. NORTH WALT. OF CIIIN-FO-SSO TOWN, WITH FOOT-HILLS OF RICHTHOFEN RANGE IN UACKG ROUND. '

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232. VIEW SOUTH FROM IlOU FROM SOUTH 232. VIEW 2J4- TUNGAN GOI-D MINERS FROM HSI-NING. 239- SXOW-FIEI.DS AT HEAD OF VALLEY EAST OF TASS ACROSS ALEXANDER III. RANGE.

24O. SNOWY PEAK SEEN EASTWARDS FROM PASS ACROSS ALEXANDER III. RANGE. Ponies resting in foreground ; elevation tire. 15,200 feet. A

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243. VIEW TO WEST TOWARDS SHAGOLIX-NAMJIL PEAKS FROM SU-I.O HO-PEI-TA HO WATERSHED.

244. VIEW FROM SU-LO HO-PEI-TA HO WATERSHED, CONTINUED TOWARDS SOUTH-WEST. This view joins Fig. 243 at line A B, forming part of panoramic view of Su-lo Ho head-waters basin. Taken from an elevation of circ. 14,600 feet. A B 246. HEAD OF ALPINE VALLEY AT CAMP CCXXI., NORTH-EAST OF SHEN-LING-TZC PASS. Turdi (A) and Sahid Bai (B), ourTurki pony-men, in foreground.

247. MY CHINESE PONY-MEN SAFELY RESTORED TO THE PLAINS. On extreme right our aged ' Ya-i' pointing with stick to the chief mutineer. 253- FORTIFIED VILLAGE OF SHA-CHING-TZO, WITH TEMPLE GATE, OX ROAD TO KAN-CHOU.

254. CENTRAL GATE TOWER AND MAIN STREET IN KAN-CHOU, 256. ORNAMENTAL GATEWAY IN FRONT OF COMMANDER-IN-CHIEF’S YA-M&N, KAN-CHOU. 257- TEMPLE NEAR STATION OF HSING-HSING-HSIA, ON ROAD FROM AN-1ISI TO IIA MI. Barren Pei-shan hills in background.

258. GORGE ABOVE SU-BASHI, ON ROAD FROM TURFAN TO KARA-SIIAHR. 26l. RUIN'S OF SMALL BUDDHIST STUPA AND SHRINE AT KICIIIK-HASSAR, TURFAN. Tila Bai standing on top of dune.

262. RUINED SHRINES AND CAVE-TEMPLES ON WEST SIDE OF TOYUK GORGE, TURFAN. - ... “j

269. RELIEVO IMAGES IN STUCCO REPRESENTING BODHISATTVAS. IN RUINED BUDDHIST SHRINE MI. XL, • MING-OI1 SITE, KARA-SHAHR. The foot-measure serves as scale. 270. STUCCO HEADS, SHOWING GRAECO-BUDDHIST ART INFLUENCE, FROM RUINED SHRINES, ■ MING-OI' SITE, KARA-SHAHR.

Scale, one-third. 1. Bearded head of classical type with Indian headdress. 2, 3. Grotesque heads. 4. Shrouded head. 5. Grotesque head, derived from Gorgo on miniature shield (see ii. p. 368). 6, 9. Heads probably of Bodhisattvas. 7. Head of Naga type. 8. Satyr-like head. 271. STUCCO HEADS AND BUSTS FROM RELIEVO DECORATION OF RUINED BUDDHIST SHRINES. ' MING-OI' SITE. KARA-SHAHR. Scale, one-third.

1. Hctmcted head. 2, 3. Heads in naturalistic style. 4, 6, 7. Female busts. 5. Divine male bust. 272. STUCCO HEAD IN HIGH RELIEVO, PROBABLY REPRESENTING A BODHI- SATTVA, FROM RUINED SHRINE MI. XV., ' MING-Ol' SITE. KARA-SHAHR. Scale, one-half.

275- RELIEVOS AND DECORATIVE CARVINGS IN WOOD, FROM RUINED BUDDHIST SHRINES. 1 MING-OI' SITE AND KHORA. Relievo panel, gilt, showing small seated Buddhas. 2. Miniature Indo-Corinthian capital. 3. Miniature stele in Graeco-Buddhist style with relievo scenes from Buddhist legend. 4. Statuette in Chinese style representing a Lokapala. 5. Relievo of seated Buddha, Khora. 277- TAHIR BEG AND AHMAD YUZ-BASIII, OF KORLA. 27S. BAKIR, PLAYER OF RABAB, ON DESERT MARCH. 279. DUNES IN DRY RIVER BED NEAR CHARCHAK DARYA.

2So. MUSA HAJl BETWEEN TWO OTHER HUNTERS FROM KORI.A. Seekers for the fabled sand-buried ‘old town.' 290. ANCIENT DWELLING NEAR SOUTH END OK KARA-DONG SITE ISKKORE EXCAVATION.

291. THE SAME ANCIENT DWELLING OK KARA-DONG SITE IN COURSE OF EXCAVATION,

296. MY COMPANIONS AND MYSELF AT ULUG1I-MAZAR, IN THE DESERT NORTH OF CHIRA. From left to right, sitting: Chiang-ssu-yeh, myself with 4 Dash/ Rai Bahadur Lai Singh. Standing : Ibrahim Beg, Jasvant Singh, Naik Ram Singh. 300. CROWD IN BAZAR STREET AT AK-SU, 301. P’AN TA-JEN, TAO-T’AI OF AK-SU, MY OLD PATRON AND FRIEND p

303. KIRGHIZ FROM GRAZING-GROUNDS OF UCH-TURFAN. I

302. KIRGHIZ WITH FELT TENT BELONGING TO MANGUSH BEG, AT ILACHU.

303. KIRGHIZ FROM GRAZING-GROUNDS OF UCH-TURFAN. 305. FAREWELL TO MY BRAVE CAMELS FROM KERIYA.

306. CARPENTERS AT WORK ON PACKING-CASES FOR ANTIQUES, IN COURTYARD OF NAR-BAGH. 307. TURDI, MY DAK-MAN FROM KHOTAN. 308. CIIIANG-SSC-YEH AT WORK ON ANCIENT CHINESE RECORDS. The saddle-bag across Turdi's shoulder served to carry small mails. l v NAR-JSAGH. This photograph shows my devoted secretary just recovered fron. a short attack of illness. 309. IIADRUDDIN KHAN, INDIAN AK-SAKAL AT KHOTAN, WITH HIS SONS AND A TRUSTED SERVANT.

310. KHUDA-BERDI (YUZ-BASHl) AND CULTIVATORS OF YOTKAN. Klnula berdi sits on extreme left; the figures stuck in his belt serve for easy reference in anthropometrical list. 3"* VILLAGE MOSQUE AT AK-YAR, ON ROAD TO UCH-TURFAN. 312. MOSQUE AT RUKNUDDIN MAZAR, YOTKA.V.