The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

No. 97 February - March 2002 THE SEA CANOEIST NEWSLETTER Stewart Island Circumnavigation (Story p.18). Pics by Max Grant

Ian at Port Pegasus, with Bald Cone in the background.

Happy relieved faces at Oban, after completing the circumnavigation; from left, Ian, Dave, Max. The Journal of the Kiwi Association of Sea Kayakers (N.Z.) Inc. - KASK 1 No. 97 February - March 2002 KASK KASK HANDBOOK Bay of Plenty Sea Kayak Network For a copy of this mother of all sea Dusty Waddell, Ph: (07) 572 4419 KASK, the Kiwi Association of Sea kayaking handbooks, contact KASK Jean Kirkham, Ph: (07) 552 5982 Kayakers (N.Z.) Inc., a network of Treasurer, Max Grant, Wellington Sea Kayak Network New Zealand sea kayakers, has the 71 Salisbury St. Christine Coshan objectives of: Ashhurst, 5451 PO Box 5276, Wellington 1. promoting and encouraging the Ph: (06) 326 8527 home email: [email protected] sport of sea kayaking Fax: (06) 326 8472 Web site: Http://home.clear.net.nz/ 2. promoting safety standards email: Q-KAYAKS@xtra.co.nz pages/wellseak 3. developing techniques & COST: Auckland Canoe Club equipment New members: gratis Rona Patterson, Secretary 4. dealing with issues of coastal Existing members: $14 + $1 p&p PO Box 45020, Te Atatu Peninsula access and protection Non-members: $18 + $1 p&p Waitakere City. 5. organizing an annual sea kayak Make cheques out to KASK Newsletter Editor: Margaret Thwaites forum (NZ)IncTrade enquiries to Max Grant. Ph: 09 2927 883 6. publishing a bimonthly Hauraki Kayak Group newsletter. THE LRB2, or the Little Red Book Pelham Housego 2nd. Edition, is a mammoth compila- PO Box 46-146, Herne Bay, Auckland The Sea Canoeist Newsletter is pub- tion on all aspects of sea kayaking in Yakity Yak Club Natasha Van Gysen lished bimonthly as the official news- New Zealand, by many of the most [email protected] letter of the Kiwi Association of Sea experienced paddlers in the Universe. Kayakers (N.Z.) Inc. PO Box 100 493, NSMC, Following a brief introduction, the Auckland handbook is divided into six sections: Articles, trips reports, book reviews, Ruahine Whitewater Club - Kayak, Paddle & Equipment 71 Salisbury St., Ashhurst. equipment reviews, new techniques, -Techniques & Equipment letter to the editor, and moments when Ph: 06 326 8667 Fax: 06 326 8472 - The Elements www.q-kayaks.co.nz/ the word 'Bugger!' was said singu- - Trips and Expeditions canoeclub.html larly or often {referred to by some as - Places to Go incidents} are sought to enliven the Northland - Resources Brian Lamerton pages of the newsletter. Tel (09) 437 2858 Each section contains up to nine sepa- Waikato Contact Send in a plain brown envelope, or via rate chapters. The Resources section, Waikato Region cybermail to: for example has chapters on: Phil Handford Editor: P Caffyn, - guide to managing a sea kayak Phone 07 834 3395 RD 1, Runanga. symposium email [email protected]. West Coast .N.Z. - Paddling Literature Bay of Plenty Ph/Fax: (03) 7311806 - Author profiles Rotorua/Taupo Area E Mail address: - Guides and Rental Operators Emma Haxton [email protected] - Network Addresses email: [email protected] - Sea Kayaks in NZ listing Phone: 07 357 4660 KASK Subscriptions are: New Plymouth Contact $20.00 per annum & cheques Bob Talbot, 16 Jade Place should be made out to: SEA KAYAKING Bell Block New Plymouth 4601 K.A.S.K. (NZ) Inc. & sent to the ph 06-7553380(H) or 025-457038 KASK Treasurer: NETWORK email imageinfocas@clear net.nz Max Grant, Marlborough 71 Salisbury St. CONTACT Helen Woodward Ashhurst, 5451 ADDRESSES Tel (03) 578 5429 Ph: (06) 326 8527 home [email protected] Fax: (06) 326 8472 Canterbury Sea Kayak Network Nelson email: [email protected] Andy & Deirdre Sheppard Martin and Karen Clark 53 Kent Lodge Ave Tel (03) 548 5835 [email protected] Correspondence to the Secretary: Avonhead, Christchurch. 8004 Otago Maurice Kennedy Ph: (03) 342 7929 Rob Tipa PO Box 11461 email: [email protected] Sea Kayak Operators Assoc. of NZ (03) 478 0360 Manners St., [email protected] Wellington. Bronwyn Duffy, Admin. Officer c/o PO Box 255, Picton Southland e-mail: [email protected] Stan Mulvany* Ph: (03) 573 6505 03 215 7263 KASK Website: www.kask.co.nz Fax: (03) 573 8827 [email protected] Email: [email protected]

2 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

INDEX EDITORIAL It is staggering that after all the train- KASK FORUMS ing, one small factor of lack of sleep EDITORIAL Now with 500+ KASK members, I the night before the cliffs, led to the have included reports, minutes and brink of disaster. With one paddler KASK 2002 FORUM, financial statements from the Wel- capsizing after their three man kayak PORIRUA - REPORTS lington KASK Forum to show how raft separated at first light, and his From Jane Wickham p.4 your subscription $ are spent, and also kayak blown away, the rescue that From Evan & Linda Pugh p.4 to show the effort and work that goes was effected in breaking seas reflects From Vincent Maire p.4 in behind the scenes by committee the mettle of these blokes, and solid- members, and particularly in the last ness of their rescue training. KASK 2002 AGM REPORTS year, treasurer Max Grant and secre- Secretary, Maurice Kennedy p.5 tary Maurice Kennedy. The new com- ‘SEA KAYAKER’ Treasurer, Max Grant p.6 mittee for 2002-3 had their first meet- The February 2002 ‘Sea Kayaker’ has AGM Minutes, M. Kennedy p.8 ing at the conclusion of the forum, and articles on paddling in the Tuamotu compiled a list of tasks to be achieved Archipelago of French Polynesia, and TECHNICAL for the year. the solo Atlantic kayak crossing by Petzl Tikka lightweight headtorch Welshman Peter Bray. review: P. Caffyn p.10 The school venue, on the edge of CRC 808, Silicone Spray Porirua Harbour, proved an ideal spot The April 2002 ‘Sea Kayaker’ has by Max Grant p.10 for the Wellington Forum, with camp- both magazine cover and 15 pages For Fishing Folk ing in the school grounds and over the covering the Antarctic Peninsula trip from Vincent Maire p.10 road access to the harbour. The by Graham Charles, Mark Jones and Cunning Expedition Tips weather was typical for Wellington, Marcus Waters. Graham’s colour pho- by Kevin Melville p.11 blowing its tits off from the north- tographs are superb. Try and get hold Boat Notices west, between passing rain squalls, of a copy of this issue. MSA 14/02/02 p.23 but flexibility with on the water ses- sions and good organization from the KIWIS IN CANADA OVERSEAS TRIP REPORTS management team made the weekend Joyce Singleton sent me a first report Perth to Shark Bay, WA a great success. from Kiwi paddlers Garth and Kevin, by Tel Williams p.12 who have set off from Vancouver Into the Forbidden Zone, Baffin Is. The Auckland Forum, held at Orewa Island for Alaska. The boys have a by Kevin Killilea p.17 from 15 - 17 March, was also a great website for following their progress: success with over 100 paddlers at- http://www.cankiwiskayak.com/ NZ TRIP REPORTS tending, and reports will be included introduction.htm Stewart Island Circumnavigation in n/l No. 98. by Ian Algie p.18 HUMOUR KASK HANDBOOK - LRB3 No terrible jokes received for this BOOK REVIEWS I am aiming to finalize the third edi- newsletter. The following is from ‘The ‘Sea Kayakers Guide to Upper N.I.’ tion of the Little Red Book by the end Press:’ Review: Kerry Howe p.20 of May. If you have any suggestions Prompter ‘Voyage to Greenland’ to improve, or add material, and point A woman in Gloucestershire woke up Review: P. Caffyn p.20 out corrections, please get in touch in the night and saw burglars in her with the editor, soonest. Sections on barn. She rang the police, who said THE ‘BUGGER!’ FILE cooking, and GPS are currently in they were sorry but they hadn’t any- Practising Wet-Exits preparation. one available to attend. She rang off. by Peter Oliver p.21 A few minutes later, she rang again: Helicopters Over Cammeray ZUYTDORP CLIFFS “By the way, about those burglars, by Chris James p.22 After the tantalizing taste of high I’ve shot them.” Within three min- drama at night along the inhospitable utes, there were police and police cars HISTORY Zuytdorp Cliffs of Western Australia all around her barn. The burglars, still Oskar Speck and His 7 Year Paddling in the last newsletter, Tel Williams burgling away, were apprehended and Journey, Germany to Australia has a longer and more informative taken off to the cells. A senior police- by Peter Osman p.22 story on their January 2002 trip from man said, “I thought you said you’d Perth up the Western Australian coast shot them.” to Shark Bay, which includes the The woman responded, “I thought preparation and training. you said there was no one available!”

3 No. 97 February - March 2002

2002 KASK FORUM - PORIRUA - REPORTS From Jane Wickham proceeded onto the water using the The forum ended with a debrief and A large group of KASK paddlers took shelter of the harbour to practice this the final choice of venue for next year. this opportunity to renew friendships skill. A little later, the wind appeared Marlborough Sounds was the popular and meet new people with similar to have abated so pods were reassem- choice – thanks to Helen Woodward, interests. The location at Titahi Bay bled for a trip towards the entrance to Past President, for offering to rally a Intermediate provided an excellent Porirua Harbour. The wind was quite team to organise this. Anyone in the venue with coastal paddling as well as brisk there so a ferry glide was re- area with some help to offer will be inner harbour paddling options. This quired to cross the harbour to the very well received. was to prove valuable as the weather bridge into the Pauatahanui Arm. Jane Wickham reduced the choices for the paddling Since it was a full moon and we were excursion. On Friday evening, the experiencing spring tides, it seemed From Evan & Linda Pugh forum got underway. Inside, away wise not to travel too far up this arm Three of us from the Waikato drove from the showery and blustery and find the tide against wind on our down to Wellington for the Forum, weather, the school hall provided an return. Our pod turned around just past looking forward to meeting other opportunity for people to mingle over the Mana shopping centre and had an Kayakers and getting involved in the pizza and drinks prior to an excellent exciting return with the wind on our different events that were organised. presentation by Antarctic historian, backs – good chance for a little surfing. The weather was what everyone thinks Richard Reaney. Richard chronicled Wellington has all of the time (windy the journey made by Ernest Shackleton With everyone back on dry land, there as), this disrupted the paddling a bit following the sinking of his ship, En- was free time to buy from the exhibi- but the three of us still did the early durance. Richard also showed us slides tors at the forum or take a walk to morning paddle and as many other of his own expeditions crossing the check out the surf at Titahi Bay. The things as possible and thoroughly mountains of South Georgia, which AGM started just after 5pm and con- enjoyed ourselves. I would like to gave us a better understanding of how cluded before dinner. A delicious buf- thank all that were involved in setting huge Shackleton’s and his compan- fet style meal was served and enter- up and organising the event, the loca- ions’ achievement was. tainment followed in the guise of a tion was good the food was great, we disreputable looking pirate with a met a group of really great people On Saturday morning, about eight stuffed parrot down his shirt. Tug of (kayakers) and Saturday night was hardy souls braved the elements for Wars between the table groups were well done too. an early morning paddle at 6am. There keenly contested. Prizes were awarded many thanks was a Gale Warning in force so the to those who had put considerable im- Evan Pugh, alias (King Neptune) later planned trip to Mana Island was agination into their outfits. Congratula- canned in favour of an inner harbour tions to Jennifer, who took out the top From Vincent Maire paddle. There were three workshops prize dressed as the Lynx fast ferry. Over the weekend of 1 - 3 March the to choose from – these were Naviga- annual KASK Forum was held at Ti- tion, Weather and Tides and Risk Diane led a walk for the early birds on tahi Bay in Wellington, with paddlers Management. I attended the Risk Sunday morning. Later there were attending from the windy capital, Management workshop, which was opportunities to try various models of lower North Island, upper South Is- ably led by Chris in Cathye Had- kayaks (thanks to Quality Kayaks land, the West Coast, Te Awamutu, dock’s absence. It was most useful and Fergs Rock and Kayak). As well, Taranaki, Christchurch, North Otago, and brought to light a number of dif- Grant ran workshops on sweep strokes Auckland and even a couple from ferent situations that paddlers had and railing – very good for the ab- Ireland who maintain membership of found themselves in. dominal muscles. Workshops were KASK. held on the use of VHF radio, GPS After an excellent briefing, groups of and navigation. I attended the GPS The event started on Friday evening seven paddlers met in their ‘pods’ workshop and it covered everything with a very good presentation from with an experienced leader. Lunch that you would need to know to use a Antarctic adventurer Richard Reaney was collected and boats taken over to GPS – keeping up with the technol- on Shackleton. Richard has made a the harbour. An intrepid team of three ogy takes some doing. I was the only number of trips to South Georgia and went out on the harbour to check the female in this group and I realised that showed slides of this wild and fasci- conditions around the point before the this was because there was an overlap nating place. pods got on their way. It was decided with the workshop for women. I un- that the wind was too strong at that derstand from those who attended this Next morning an intrepid bunch took time, so Grant Rochfort stepped into that it was most useful - and a few to the water for a dawn paddle on a the breech with demonstrations of the brave men even came to learn some windswept Porirua Harbour. The plan T – Rescue (thanks Evan for volun- useful stuff to pass on to their female to paddle up the harbour to a wetland teering for a dunking). People paddling companions. was aborted due to the high winds.

4 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

2002 KASK FORUM - PORIRUA - REPORTS

The morning got underway with three KASK AGM - Secretary’s useful service for network and club workshops and following this all del- liaison people to confirm the KASK egates took to the water. It was dark, Report for 2002 members in their area. windy and wet. The thirty-knot winds precluded a trip to nearby Mana Is- Introduction It is also possible for a range of reports land so we gathered in our pods to The national committee conducted its on membership to be sent on request practice self and buddy rescue tech- business by telephone conference calls by email attachment. It is a service niques. Before long the sun came out at six weekly intervals. During the that can put paddlers who are KASK and the wind dropped enough for us to year we had seven meetings in this members in touch with each other paddle up the western side of the way and covered a range of issues. anywhere in NZ. harbour to where it enters the sea at Key matters from the secretary’s per- Plimmerton. All groups managed to spective have been: 3. KASK Brochure ferry guide to the other side of the The KASK brochure has been up- harbour and back again. It was a tired 1. Membership dated and rewritten. The revised ver- but happy bunch of paddlers that re- The last year has seen a large increase sion expands on membership serv- turned for afternoon tea and a shower. in KASK membership. At the time of ices. The intent is to edit it for the the Nelson forum last March KASK changes that will come out of the The evening started with the KASK had 186 members. As of today the AGM and to publish it as a full colour annual general meeting then a slap-up membership stand at 491 including glossy brochure. Funding is being dinner was consumed with great gusto. two life members. sought from WSNZ to fund the pub- Some of the delegates had taken the lishing costs. trouble to come in fancy dress and The increase reflects the increasing prizes were given for the best cos- interest in sea-kayaking and is a result 4. Network & Club Liaison People tumes. As the lips were being smacked of consistent effort by Max Grant to A start has been made to get liaison and belches suppressed, a strange pi- advertise and promote KASK mem- contact people in each of the 15 re- ratical man appeared. He was the eve- bership in the outdoor magazines. gions. This is a very important step as nings’ entertainment. Before long he it will give KASK the ability to com- had us breaking into teams and taking 2. Membership Database municate effectively with its mem- part in a tug-of-war. Water pistols During the year the membership bership and in particular to keep in were made use of and among the record was transferred to an access touch with the grass roots. shouting, screaming and hurtling bod- database programme and developed ies, a feeling of absolutely positively to provide increased functionality and The constitution was amended for madness took hold. The evening was reporting options. clubs and networks to be KASK mem- consummated with the mad pirate bers in their own right. This and being dunked into a wheely-bin of The membership has been divided getting a national coverage of local water. There was water everywhere into 15 regions based on regional coun- contact/liaison people will be priori- and if the headmaster had been at the cil boundaries. Reports on the mem- ties for 2002. school, we would all have been put on bership can be done for any particular Maurice Kennedy detention. region or for the country. This is a Secretary

Sunday started with an hour walk around Whitireia Park. This was fol- lowed by some workshops and time on the water practising sweep strokes or trying out boats courtesy of a number of trade people who were in attendance. The trade was a real at- traction and was well patronised.

By noon the non-locals were getting boats on to roof racks and heading away. There were 70 delegates at the event and it was great to talk with sea kayakers from other parts of the coun- try.

Shelley, Beverley and Jennifer, in nautical theme dress for the KASK dinner.

5 No. 97 February - March 2002

KIWI ASSOCIATION of SEA KAYAKERS (NZ) INCORPORATED

12 Month Review of Income &Expenditure for year ended 28 February 2002

INCOME 2002 2001 2000 Subscriptions 9,917.80 6501.33 6,423.25 KASK handbook sales 1,848.95 3363.50 2,274.00 KASK badge sales 122.00 92.00 118.43 KASK hat sales 40.00 60.00 - Donation received - - 30.50 Interest 277.03 319.95 230.89 Annual KASK forum 186.87 1694.41 6,720.00 Water Safety Council Grant - 2080.00 - TOTAL INCOME 12,392.65 14,111.19 15,797.07

EXPENDITURE ADMINISTRATION Cheque duty / bank fee 8.00 36.44 7.50 Stationary 627.22 294.08 78.80 Postage 2020.50 1,329.73 1,445.45 Phone 296.90 282.21 26.39 Sundry 43.00 40.00 50.00 AGM Expenses 355.84 936.00 - Accountant fee 50.00 - - Handbook 3,748.50 4,721.63 2,811.38 Annual KASK Forum 130.00 905.00 4,831.96 Regional courses 2,216.55 686.00 200.00 Web Site 646.80 - - Advertising 540.00 - -

NEWSLETTERS (5) Printing 3,205.37 2,776.64 2278.87 Editors fee 1,350.00 1,350.00 225.00 Software - - 1146.28 TOTAL EXPENDITURE 15,238.68 13,357.73 13,101.63

EXCESS INCOME/EXPENDITURE -2,846.03 753.46 2,695.44 FUNDS Westpac Trust Cheque Account 695.63 1,769.76 923.35 Westpac Trust Savings Account 10,301.77 12,086.80 11,681.36 Forum Account - 740.33 1,238.72 Total Funds 10,997.40 14,596.89 13,843.43 Decrease in total funds - 3,599.49

Assets as at 28th February 2002: 0 Handbooks 0 10 Pins 120 4 Hats 32 Total Assets: 152 Review only, prepared by Max Grant – March 2002

6 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

The Wellington Forum funds do not Stationary: 350 appear on this statement as the fi- Postage: 600 Treasurer’s Report - nances are being done through the Phone: 200 Wellington Network’ account. Web-site 22.50 per month: 270 02/2002 Wilderness advert. 90 per month: My report this year is only a review as Funds: 1,080 our financial year now ends at the end Funds are down $3599.49 from the Course subsides: 200 per course of June. previous year. This is mainly due to: 400 $2080 W.S.C. Grant appearing in the KASK pamphlet: 600 Briefly summarizing my review: previous years accounts, and being Travel: 500 Membership: used this year. Total Expenditure: 13,250 Membership is at an all time high at This year’s forum money does not 500+. Approximately half of our appear on this statement. (I don’t feel Income: present membership are new mem- it should) Subscription (500 members): bers, which has meant we have had to 10,000 give out over 250 copies of our hand- Extra costs we now incur are: Hand book: 1,750 book, which has lead to a financial For the web-site (22.50 per month) Badges/hats: 100 drain on our funds. It is important for and Wilderness Ad. ($90 per month) Interest: 250 KASK have these new members re- Forum: 1,000 new their subscription for the next I have included a forecast budget for Total Income: 13,100 financial year. the next 12 months, and would ask members to consider increasing our There are three factors to consider Handbook sales: annual subscription to $25 in General during the next 12 months: Handbook sales to shops and hire Business. 1. The revised handbook LRB3 will operators are down on previous years. cost us more - approximately $12 a I am not sure how to improve our sales I would also like to thank all those copy. The handbook price can be ad- in this area, as it is always a struggle to people who include a small note with justed at a committee meeting, but a encourage shops to stock our hand- their subs. It is great to hear what lot of copies go out free to new mem- book. Sales to Polytechnics around you’ve been up to, especially when bers, so subscription fees should be New Zealand are increasing. I’m busy writing up receipts, etc. addressed now. 2. This financial year is 17 months, Water Safety Council Grant: Budget Forecast for next which means we have to continue an This Grant was given to be used to Financial Year (2002/2003) extra 5 months to operate with very assist training courses throughout New little extra income. Zealand. Working from previous years ex- penses, I estimate that expenses for 3. Extra costs of advertising and the We did not apply for a grant this year web-site need to be budgeted for. as the Grant of $2080 we received at the next 12 months for a membership of 500 members will be: the end of the previous year had not Based on the above forecast, I would been used. We used all of this Grant Expenses: like to move at the AGM that the during the last twelve months, plus annual subscription be increased from some of our own funds. Funding to Newsletter: $925 per issue 5,550 (including postage) $20 per person to $25 per person. assist courses was sent to; Wellington Max Grant - $480, Auckland & Tauranga - $800, Handbook @ 9.37 each: 3,700 Christchurch – $800 plus $136.55 of KASK funds.

Administration: General administration is up a little because of the larger membership. The cost of the small KASK pam- phlet, which we distribute free to shops, hire operators, etc., is included in stationary. We will be applying to the Water Safety Council for funding of an up-graded pamphlet in the fu- ture.

Annual Forum: The forum held at Nelson last year made a profit of $135.87. Secretary Maurice Kennedy, with Saucy Sue, at the KASK dinner 7 No. 97 February - March 2002

and briefly described how they were KASK and SKOANZ on the sharing KASK (NZ) Inc. organised and went over the debrief- of information safety skills training Minutes 10th AGM ing from the last course which was and joint funding applications. Moved Porirua, 3 March 2002 run in Canterbury towards the end of Maurice Kennedy, seconded Helen (some sections abbreviated) 2001. It was agreed that the Instruc- Woodward. Comment from the floor Minutes of the 2001 AGM: tion Report be accepted. Moved John was that the move had definite gen- The Minutes of the 2001 AGM held at Kirk- Anderson, seconded Shelley eral support of all membership. Cable Bay, Nelson on 11 March 2001 Daigle. were read. It was agreed that the General Business: Minutes of the previous AGM be ac- Safety: 1. Subs for the 2002/2003 financial cepted. Moved Maurice Kennedy, Helen Woodward indicated that in year were set at $25.00 for single seconded Beverley Burnett. Cathye’s absence the Safety Report membership and $35.00 for dual/fam- would be printed in the newsletter. It ily membership. President’s Report: was agreed that a vote of thanks be The President covered changes to the recorded for the work that Cathye 2. After some discussion it was agreed membership data base, the need for Haddock had done for KASK in look- that KASK’s Constitution be reviewed regional liaison and contact people to ing after the safety portfolio. Moved during 2002 and that a report on this link KASK with the networks and Helen Woodward, seconded Max be presented to the 2003 AGM. clubs, and emphasised the role of the Grant. newsletter providing an important 3. Agreed that feedback be sought communication link with members. Website: from members on the KASK profi- It was agreed that the President’s Re- Vincent Maire gave a brief overview ciency and leadership skills course port be accepted. Moved Helen Wood- of the website. He reported that the content. ward, seconded Max Grant. site had over 600 hits in January and that it would need more ongoing de- Before the meeting closed the meet- Presentation: velopment during the current year and ing invited Dave Watson President of At this point in the meeting Max Grant quoted that the Yakity Yak Club in the Sea Kayaking Operators Associa- presented Helen Woodward with the Auckland gets 1000 hits a month for tion of New Zealand to address the Graeme Egarr Trophy and commented their website. It was agreed that the meeting, re the proposed closer op- that Helen was the first female Presi- Report be accepted. Moved Vincent eration. dent and first female trophy winner. Maire, seconded John Kirk-Anderson. He commented that Helen had been Dave Watson said the SKOANZ were involved with KASK since 1989 and Newsletter: moving too quickly to put into place a had contributed to most of the office A vote of thanks was moved to Paul training system and it would be based holder positions of KASK, from Sec- Caffyn for his efforts on the newsletter. on a Unit Standard based training retary, Treasurer, Safety and for the pathway for sea kayaking guides. last two years as President. Remits: They have had for some years a level 1. It was agreed that the KASK Con- 1 guide standard operating for some Conservation: stitution be amended under Rule 11, years which has worked very well but Rob Tipa’s Conservation Report was ‘Rules of General Meetings’ Section they were very short of qualified read by Helen, in his absence. The B to take out the 20% of the total guides. He felt that sea kayaking will Report covered the activities of KASK current financial membership and re- go the same way as rafting where one in making submissions to the Canter- place with the amended rule to read must have a qualification to become a bury Regional Council’s Akarora “At all general meetings 50 current rafting guide. Because there was no Mussel Farm licence hearing, and on financial members shall constitute a introductory qualification to get their submissions made to the Marlbor- forum.” Moved Helen Woodward, guides started they have introduced a ough District Council on Ferry speeds. seconded Maurice Kennedy. proficiency lower level proficiency There was some further discussion course. He felt that this course would arising out of the Report on the issue 2. It was agreed that the Constitution be very useful for KASK members of marine farms and a comment was Clause 3 on membership be amended and recreational sea kayakers. made from the floor on the pollution to include dual/family members cat- that the marine farms cause. It was egory. Any two or more people who In his concluding remarks Vincent agreed that the Conservation Report reside at the same address and who Maire briefed the meeting on the be accepted. Moved Helen Wood- have applied for membership and have Auckland Coast Busters coming un- ward, seconded Maurice Kennedy. been duly voted members. Moved der the umbrella of KASK and his Max Grant, seconded Maurice vision that there will be a forum in the Instruction: Kennedy. Bay of Plenty/Waikato area in 2003. John Kirk-Anderson gave a summary of the courses that had been run under 3. It was agreed that a closer working Compiled: Maurice Kennedy KASK’s aegis over the last 12 months relationship be developed between

8 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

and use this as a starting point for momentum. The KASK further investigation. Committee 2. Undertake a membership survey. The 2002 - 2003 KASK This survey will likely cover a range Committee comprises: Column of topics including The Sea Canoeist Vincent Maire, Auckland by President, Vincent Maire newsletter, training, membership serv- (president & publicity officer), ices, the KASK Handbook, forums, Maurice Kennedy, Wellington etc. We ask that you complete and (secretary), The KASK AGM was held in Wel- return the survey. Max Grant, Ashhurst (treasurer), lington on 2 March over the weekend Bob Talbot, New Plymouth of the annual KASK Forum. The event 3. Plan for a KASK forum to be held (North Island conservation), provided an opportunity for the com- in the BoP / Waikato area in 2003. Rob Tipa, Dunedin (South Island mittee to meet face-to-face. Normally Contact has been made with some conservation), committee business is conducted by Rotorua based paddlers and we hope Rob Gardner, Waiouru conference call every six weeks so the to make an announcement on this (safety officer), AGM enabled both members and the development in the near future. John Kirk-Anderson, Christchurch committee to discuss issues of impor- (instruction officer) tance. For the year ahead your com- 4. Protect sea kayak areas from en- Paul Caffyn, 12 Mile (newsletter mittee will focus its efforts on the croaching aquaculture farms. editor). following key areas: This is an ongoing battle that has been ably led by Rob Tipa. Your committee is keen to receive 1. Investigate opportunities to intro- feedback from members and as Presi- duce a national sea kayaking profi- 5. Build awareness and membership dent I will be contributing a regular ciency test. of the organisation. column to The Sea Canoeist newslet- Dave Watson of SKOANZ attended Outgoing president Helen Woodward ter to keep everyone informed on what the AGM and informed us of the reported that the organisation had had progress is being made on these and progress his organisation has made a very good year in 2001/2 with mem- other issues. with its own qualification. Your com- bership increasing from 183 to 510 Vincent Maire mittee will look at the SKOANZ model over the period. We will maintain the President

Would you trust either of this disreputable pirates with your parrot? Captain Hook has a KFC box on his left shoulder!

9 No. 97 February - March 2002

with the other eye, then after switch- HOT TIP - ‘CRC 808 TECHNICAL ing off the light, opened the closed Silicone Spray’ PRODUCT REVIEW eye which had retained full night vi- from Max Grant sion. For some time now I have been using Petzl ‘Tikka’ Ultra The stretchy 25mm wide headband silicone spray on my hatches. By ap- Lightweight Headlamp. was comfy to wear, and has a easily plying a small amount around the adjustable tensioning buckle at the inside of the lid of each hatch, the back of the head. silicone not only makes it easier to Following six weeks of intensive use remove and refit the hatch lids, it also while kayaking along the coast of For overnight (stealth) paddling with seals them thoroughly as it naturally Malaya and Thailand, Conrad repels any water. Edwards and I reckon this lightweight the need to maintain full night vision with both eyes, the product leaflet headtorch was the ‘best find of new I also find that by occasionally spray- kit’ in 2001. notes red and green lenses or filters are available. ing the silicone on all rudder parts, wires, cords and footrest fittings, all Petzl have used the LED (light emit- parts keep working smoothly and do ting diode) bulb technology for this The on-off switch on top of the light is ribbed, with a 2mm sideways motion, not wear as fast as they normally headtorch. Three tiny bulbs give an would. The test? Seven days around even white light. They are strong, and was easy to find and use in the dark. My only quibble with the light is Stewart Island and no water in my with a lifetime of several year’s con- front and centre compartments. About tinuous use, according to the product the push in button to access the bat- tery compartment. I needed to use a two tea spoons came into my rear leaflet) and consume less energy than compartment during the whole trip. traditional bulbs. fingernail to prise off the battery com- partment lid, while pushing in the FOR FISHING FOLK But what sold me on this light was the button. from Vincent Maire weight - 70gms including the three While perusing a glossy magazine out AAA batteries. My older heavy The headlamp is not rated as water- of Massey University, I came across headtorch uses three AA batteries in a proof, but despite spray from break- an article about the ‘Brooke Anglers’ battery back on the back of the head- ing waves and intensive daily use, my Cooker. It is the invention of student band. The Tikka has the three AAA lamp and the battery compartment Blythe Rees-Jones and has got to be of batteries mounted behind the com- remained dry. Conrad found sea wa- great interest to the many sea kayak- pact bulb unit. ter in his battery compartment after a ers who enjoy fishing. sustained early morning surfing ses- The functioning test notes a 10 hour sion, but after washing and drying, the The cooker is made of die-cast alu- battery life of 12 hours, for lighting lamp worked fine. The leaflet notes, if minium, runs off a portable butane out to 10m, with a steady decrease sea water reaches the interior of the gas canister and has an interchange- then of the light brightness out to 150 lamp, remove the batteries, rinse abun- able cooking surface. One side is for hours. For the Malaya/Thailand trip, dantly in fresh water and dry. grilling and the other for frying. What we both used the Tikka lamps on a is more, by sprinkling sawdust and daily basis, bearing in mind there is The light performed most satisfacto- water between the fins of the grilling not really a dawn or dusk close to the rily in the limestones caves of Thai- surface, the cooker can be transformed equator. Once the sun sets, full dark- land I was fortunate to be shown into a smoker. From the photograph ness follows within 30 minutes. Be- through. I first heard about this LED in the magazine, the cooker is about cause of a combination of working light from local West Coast cavers 300mm long and maybe 120mm wide. favourable tidal streams, avoiding after a cave rescue practice in the This means it can easily be stowed landing on the long stretches of smoke filled tunnels of the Dunollie into the hatch of a sea kayak. mudflats, and avoiding the strong day- Mines Rescue station. The LED lights time offshore winds, we were com- were far more efficient in the smoky The 21-year-old inventor is/was a stu- monly up at 2am, and paddling before filled tunnels than a conventional min- dent at Massey’s Wellington campus. 3am, thus spending up to four hours er’s lamp. I have sent an email to the Industrial paddling in the dark. For breakfasting Design people at the university seek- and a brew, then packing the boats, From memory, retail price was about ing more information (where can I get the lights were ideal. Then on the $80. For a lightweight, compact, head- one?) but did not receive a reply. Is water, I used my light for compass lamp for kayaking and camping, I there anyone out there in sea kayak navigation, while Conrad used his to reckon this is a great piece of kit. land who has information on the warn any approaching longtails (fish- Brooke Anglers’ Cooker? If you do ing boats) of our presence. To keep Paul Caffyn. know something about this marvel- my night vision when using the light, lous product, please direct your reply I simply closed one eye before switch- to the editor who can publish the re- ing on the light, sorted out the heading sponse to the benefit of all readers.

10 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

Cag, by the way is, short for the French tarp from any disposal shop has a CUNNING word Cagoule - meaning shell. So a 1,000 campsite uses in an environment EXPEDITION Cag is a good waterproof paddling of sand and sun. Great for rain cover jacket or shell. Check out all your for the tent and camp area; keeping TIPS major equipment - Cag, PFD, spray sand out of the tent; a ground sheet to Kevin (Kevlar) Melville’s ‘Top 10 skirt, tent and hit the credit card where protect the floor of your tent; as a Tips’ to get you on your way . A few necessary. Good equipment will make wind & sun shade and for gathering sneaky ones, learned on the hard yards all the difference. Good quality polar water in a pinch. of experience! fleece that will dry while it is on you is great and keep in mind cotton is VITAL EXPEDITION So, Wayne has approached you and useless-two weeks later your cotton STRATEGIES said “Well, Young Lad, I’m going to shorts will still be very wet and very 8. A good tent site gives a good sleep kayak around the world. Want to smelly. - So Watch Your ‘Mates’ Don’t Sprint come?” Before you know it, your lips To The Beach To Get The Best said, “Sir! Yes please Sir!” then your 5. The wafting smell of other paddlers’ Watch out for the ‘Don’t worry about mind said, “Bloody ‘ell. I’ve never herbs, spices and onions while your helping the others to land syndrome,’ even been on an overnight trip. What plain pasta is cooking is tormenting - where the important thing is to claim do I do now?” So Take Some Yourself the best tent site by tossing your PFD Usually in your kayak you have room, onto it before the others can. You can Well, here are ten tips that I jotted so it is nice to include a few fresh fruit regain any lost esteem by pretending down after my first (two week) and veggies as well. The range of to help the others locate the not-so- expedition. Some are fairly obvious spices that you take will liven up the good tent sites that you rejected earlier. but I’ve included them because they most boring meal-and on long trips (If you’ve been a bit slow, a can make such a difference to your where you are really tired or wet at the surreptitious kick can move somebody trip. end of the day-the taste of fine food is else’s PFD a vital metre or two.) lovely. 1. Aching muscles are no fun - So 9. Its very stressful to be the last to get Start Training Now 6. Packing your kayak for the first in your kayak each morning This really is obvious. Nevertheless, time ever at 4 am in the dark with the - So Develop Smart Camping Tricks here it is. Set yourself a training temperature below zero is no fun at all This is especially important if the schedule but don’t make it unrealistic. - So Have A Practice Pack expedition leader is a bit fierce. Tricks If you have the time for only 15 A week before the expedition, take an such as preparing your breakfast the kilometres each Saturday, then overnight kayak trip. You could do previous night and rolling up your schedule that and no more. If you can this from the Patonga Caravan Park. sleeping bag as soon as you get out of fit in some coaching to improve your Once there, pack your kayak it will have you ready before the others. paddle stroke, that’s a bonus. (including water and dummy food), You will receive considerable paddle around Lion Island and return satisfaction from being first on the 2. ‘I don’t know what I need to know’ to Patonga to camp for the night. Pack water each morning and watching the - So Buy A Reference Book up again in the morning and repeat the rest scurry around trying not to be last. Books such as Derek Hutchinson’s Lion Island paddle. Make a note of Don’t forget to do your morning ‘Expedition Kayaking,’ (from Ocean where you have stored each item in ablutions early as there is little more Planet of course) will give you an your kayak. humiliating than being first, and then overall view of expedition kayaking. being last because you had to get back A low-cost alternative is to read it in 7. Some Tricky bits of gear that work out of your kayak to have a nervous the Ocean Planet shop whenever well poo before entering that surf zone! Linda’s back is turned. It’s amazing how a few clever bits of gear can make life so much easier. 10. The days begin to blur after a 3. Having no tent poles for two weeks Take snow pegs for your tent - you while- So Keep A Log is rather inconvenient- So Prepare An will be camping in sand and snow Jot down just a few notes each night. Equipment List pegs work so much better than small Take photos as well - one of each Clever lads and lasses have lists of pegs. Also, a good quality paintbrush campsite and one or two shots each their kayaking gear on computer. is great for brushing sand from your day that identify the day’s travel. A Whenever they go kayaking, they print tent and for brushing sand away from disposable camera is more than out the list, highlight the items that the hatches before the hatch covers go sufficient. So that’s it from me - ten will be needed on that particular trip on-the brush can be used for epoxy important tips to help you on your then tick off each item as it goes into repairs if necessary. A conical dry- way. Have fun and happy expeditions. the pile of gear to be taken on the trip. bag stuffed into the bow of your kayak (Reprinted from ‘Wet World) (and left there) can be used to store 4. Being cold and wet for two weeks your emergency set of warm clothes. is no fun - So Buy A Quality Cag Finally, a durable & light ground sheet/

11 No. 97 February - March 2002

I have got so used to it I do not even larger wave at the end of the rock OVERSEAS TRIP vaguely get concerned about it any shelf. I launched, got over the rocks more. John Di Nucci, Les Allen, Terry and was absolutely pulverized by the REPORTS Bolland and myself set off from the next wave. I honestly thought I had Perth foreshore on a cold, wet and damaged my spine with the force of Perth to Shark Bay - windy morning on 10 January. Chan- the wave into my chest. My paddle January 2002 nel 7, family and friends made the was wrenched from my hands, my by Tel Williams occasion seem far more auspicious head touched the rocks as I washed than any previous departures. John backwards, upside down. I scrambled As a West Australian sea kayaker the nearly covered himself in glory when from the cockpit, struggled to get the enormous achievement of Paul Caffyn he nearly missed his farewell Eskimo swamped kayak up the steep beach in 1982 of paddling around Australia roll. A long, four hour paddle into a and retrieve my paddle, which was represented the pinnacle of kayaking. headwind to reach the ocean soon washing out to sea. It was a disaster. I To myself the summit of that achieve- dispelled any ideas of grandeur. A thought I was seriously injured, I could ment was the conquering of the 200km highlight of culture was John jumping not communicate with the others, and Zuytdorp Cliff section on the West from his kayak to kiss Barbara at I could not risk another launch. Australian coast. That was my Everest. Point Walter and then promptly pro- ceeding to piddle. I did try again without success but Being one of those people who al- fortunately without a repeat perform- ways have to see around the next bend We very soon discovered a difference ance. Les fortunately had managed to and explore the next area, it began to in our paddling speeds, which was a land about 500m further on, walked to become an obsession to paddle the little disconcerting. Les being a very me and helped me launch. I was ex- Zuytdorp, particularly as we paddled powerful paddler was a little frus- tremely grateful, swallowed a couple more and more parts of the Western trated at the much slower pace of of anti-inflammatory tablets and thank- Australian coast and undertook longer Terry. This was to be the case for the fully did not suffer beyond a bruised and more difficult expeditions. In ear- next 10 days northward. I felt a little and slightly tender back for a few days. lier trip reports I often referred to it awkward as having trained so much and worked through the logistics in and being Les’ friend and main pad- The next day is always the worst for countless ways over the years. Soon, dling partner I felt inclined to speed me on a trip mentally. I missed my for John and I, it became the glaringly up to support him. John having trained family, found myself questioning my obvious area of the Western Coast not even more than me could also easily sanity and somehow was unable to paddled. Les too began to seriously have increased the speed. However, not dwell on the possible difficulties consider undertaking the challenge we all adhere to the principal of pad- that faced us. This is so contrary to my after the Esperance to Perth trip (See dling at the speed of the slowest pad- nature and fortunately only lasted a ‘Sea Kayaker’ December 2000, dler and so despite Terry saying it was few hours. We paddled about 60km ‘Swearing at the Wind’ by Les Allen). our trip and he would do whatever we before setting up a great camp in the As with most of our trips the decision decided he essentially dictated the dunes. We had the traditional wine on was made in my kitchen over a cup of pace. In retrospect this was a blessing the ‘porch’ and it was hard to compare coffee and so began the process of for myself as I learned to slow my my buoyant mood with that of the planning and training. This process in paddling speed and pace myself bet- mornings. terms of our group dynamics is a ter which may have saved me from whole story in itself. physical breakdown on the 600km Continuing ever northward the next paddle to Kalbarri. day I was delighted to meet a col- Anyway, I finally felt ready after 138 league in the shallows at Lancelin. It hours of strenuous training paddles, A fairly big swell was running all day was great listening to Terry’s stories night paddles and other training while and with a 20kt S/W onshore wind it of his Kimberley paddling trips. We continually preparing mentally for the began to look as if it would be difficult had some excitement threading reefs cliffs. Les phoned about three weeks to find a campsite. Unfortunately we and saw one 2m shark just to help us before D-Day to ask if I minded if were still inside the metro area and remember that we were not alone in Terry Bolland could join the trip. much of the coastline was fairly rocky. the ocean. We camped north of Wedge Given his track record and my com- I volunteered to paddle in to check out Island. Again we met some people we pliant nature I agreed. This changed a prospective site and had an interest- knew. I felt a lot more into trip mode the group dynamics considerably, ing surf in over some rocks, which and except for some sore blisters on which in retrospect had both positive had not been visible from seaward. my hands, felt in pretty good shape. and negative outcomes for the expe- When I wanted to launch I found dition. myself in a bit of a predicament. I The next day we had one of those days needed a bigger set of waves so I kayakers dream about. A 30kt south- John picked me up and true to my could have enough water to launch erly wind directly behind us on a good friends form was soon driving my loaded kayak over the rocks but shallow sea. It was exhilarating catch- back to his house for flares he had left. this meant that the wash created a ing wave after wave and we were able

12 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

to paddle at 9km /hour without any site at Port Denison and Les wanted to some rough bumpy water off the reef effort at all. We met Marion Mayes, keep his appointment with people in and a couple of close shaves with the our support in Jurien. The next day Geraldton. I was not too fussed by the odd bombie. We landed for lunch and was the day for seeing sharks, dol- decision to go, was happy to support watched a fisherman land a 3.5 meter phins, turtles and stingrays. Other- the group and I was paddling well tiger shark a few meters from our wise it was a long and fairly boring within myself and found my niggles kayaks. I felt sorry for the poor animal day on a flat sea with a very mundane were not deteriorating in any way. watching the way the population con- landscape. That night we camped on gregated around it, prodding, kicking an exposed beach about 4km north of I did feel vindicated a little when the and the rest. It was here that Les Coolimba. Fortunately there was only wind did pick up and we took 11hrs of mentioned to me that his wrist was a very light wind and we had a great constant paddling to reach Greenough, very sore and he took some anti-in- evening no further than a few meters still 13 kms short of Geraldton. Which flammatory tablets. The wind picked from the sea. The coast in this area is would have taken three hours or more up to 25 plus kts and we literally flew protected by reef and this lures one at the pace we were paddling. Les did the next 14km to Sandalwood Bay. into a false sense of security. The later talk to me and conceded that we We had great ‘porch’ drinks and dis- noise of the swells breaking on Bea- should have turned back. As I said cussions about the trip and paddling gle Reef 10kms offshore was evi- before I was not too fussed. All in all in general. The condition of Les’s dence of the true nature of the ocean it was not a very pleasant day and wrist was of real concern and I felt bad we would face shortly. probably added to the damage Les did that he would have to abandon the to his wrist ligaments that ultimately cliff paddle. We had another long slow day the sidelined him. It was a great learning next day. Paddling for 11 hrs into a experience for me in learning to pad- Our introduction to the cliffs the next light headwind to reach Port Denison dle slowly, not put any pressure on day south of Kalbarri was magnifi- where we again made contact with muscles or ligaments and reinforce cent. The weather was perfect and we Marion. I was concerned about the the mental adjustment I was making were able to paddle to within metres fact that I could feel some soreness in to paddle at Terry’s pace. This was of the cliffs, take great photographs my right shoulder, which was an in- not as easy as it sounds as we had and appreciate the caves and spec- jury I had developed on the Montebello always as a group paddled much faster. tacular formations. John and I had expedition in April. Added to this was Of note was my little swim in the paddled the section last year and could some tendon soreness in my right shallows as I tried a fancy surfing hardly believe our luck at the favour- wrist. I was keen to have a rest day in manoeuvre, ran out of water and had able conditions. Of note was Terry Port Denison although the campsite an undignified exit in the weed in getting caught unintentionally in a we were in was not very pleasant and about 1 foot of water. wave off Eagle Bay and having to the weather was overcast and miser- execute some fine paddling skills to able. The forecast was for favourable The next day we had to interrupt our make an unscheduled landing. What winds and Les was keen to push on to rest day by paddling the 13km to made it even more hilarious is that he Geraldton 65 kms on. Geraldton. It turned into a bit of a saga is always so cautious and organised because we got the vehicle bogged and would be the last person one would We set off into a 10 to 12 kt N/W and had to carry the kayaks further expect to get caught. Added to this we headwind. After an hour I expressed than expected to launch. Les also sur- were able to rib him about the fact that my view that it would be wise to prised us by declaring he was not an hour later and for only the second return to Port Denison as I thought going to paddle the section saying that time on the whole trip he was in front that with the increasing headwind we he only saw the trip up, as training for when he led John and I into the kill were looking at another 11 hour or the cliffs. zone off Oyster Reef at the entrance to longer paddle. Added to this was the Kalbarri. He again skilfully managed fact that we had for the first time left We spent a day and a half in Geraldton, to remain upright while John and I camping gear with Marion, were not making minor adjustments to our kay- made a glorious entrance into Ka- self supporting and had no choice but aks and equipment and buying sup- lbarri in the upside down position. to make Greenough. As we had pur- plies. We stayed with Gary and John managed the roll while I had yet posely built in rest days I really could Carolyn Nixon who were wonderful another swim. For a kayaker taking not see the point of slogging into the hosts. Gary and Dennis another pad- on ‘Everest’ I was not doing too well wind all day. Les reacted angrily rais- dler from Geraldton joined us on the in the skills department! ing his voice and laying down ultima- paddle to Horrocks where we had a tums, which I found rather surprising. great BBQ. I had an interesting chat to We met Ken Wilson {of hosting and I didn’t react although I nearly asked Terry about the trip so far and we bagpipe fame on Paul Caffyn’s expe- him not to get excited and that there spoke about undertaking a trip to the dition} and set up camp in the best was no need to raise his voice. Terry Kimberley’s. house in Kalbarri. The next two days was for pushing on. I found myself were spent sorting out gear for the questioning their motives and con- The paddle on to Port Gregory with assault on the cliffs. Checking weather cluded that they hadn’t liked the camp- favourable winds was great except for and coastal details from local fisher-

13 No. 97 February - March 2002 men and preparing the ground crew. I thought he had left at the house. It was relief I felt is beyond description and was very disappointed for Les but was exciting departing Kalbarri heading I am certain no drug on earth could very relieved about the fact that he towards the gradually lightening cliffs produce the same elation. I even made would join Marion in support. His that had been so much a part of our a point of enjoying the occasion of 4WD skills, survival skills, handling psyche for so long. We had a light where we were. To be out on such a of crises and general physical strength following wind, the sea was calm and rough night on the wind swept ocean would rank him as the top of the pops we made good time all day. We took off the imposing silhouette of the in any support team anywhere. I felt photographs, saw dolphins, sharks, Zuytdorp in the moonlight, 100kms excited about the paddle. All the train- turtles and numerous fish. All day the from anywhere was a pretty unique ing and hours of mentally attuning wind gradually strengthened and the place to be! The horror I felt when I myself to this one event had finally seas continued to lift. By 3pm we put felt the fatigue overcoming me again come to a head. I was more nervous cags on as we were constantly wet is beyond description. This time it about a TV interview than the pros- from white caps and felt cold. By 6pm was far worse if that is possible and I pect of 30 hours at sea. Some local and our first radio schedule, the sea could not stay awake for more than a fisherman told us that given the per- was rough enough to require us to raft few agonising seconds at a time. I had fect conditions of the past three days up to use the radio, and it was difficult obviously used up my final reserves it would be perhaps possible to land to open hatches to access food and and I had the first thoughts of catastro- near the Zuytdorp wreck. This altered equipment. phe. The hazardous nature of our po- our whole way of thinking and resulted sition in such rough conditions at night in us carrying a lot more gear than By nightfall the sea had reached such and my inability to function was hor- intended, i.e.., 18 litres of extra water, a state that setting up night-lights and rifying. I felt lousy for the predica- tent, clothing, food, camping and repair gear was fairly difficult. By this stage ment it had put the others in and the gear, which in effect resulted in us I was wearing thermals, polartec top, degree of frustration I felt was beyond undertaking the challenge with loaded cag, balaclava and PFD and still felt a calculation. kayaks. We would depart Kalbarri at little cold. Unfortunately I was feel- 5.30 am on 25 January. ing very sleepy already and was strug- John was absolutely fantastic. At no gling to stay awake. Little did I know time did he panic and the courage and At 9.30pm we went to bed. John still what was to come! Within two hours patience with which he dealt with the seemed to have a heap of gear all over I was in a state of mental agony and situation is remarkable. I wish I could the place but I was confident that with frustration forcing myself to stay recall all the words of encourage- a 4.00am rise we would be able to awake. It reached a stage when I was ment, advice and clear decisions he make the 5.30am target. Horror of falling asleep even after descending a made throughout the night and record horrors I didn’t sleep! Having slept so wave and having a deluge of water them in the annals of survival stories. well the whole trip, not feeling at all over my head with whitecaps. Time As I write this I recall snippets of our nervous, looking forward to the ad- and again I would wake with adrenalin conversations and believe it or not, at venture and having woken at 4.00 the shock as I felt the kayak going over. I times we actually laughed. He pointed morning before, I was sure I would be was paddling most of the time with out to me at one time that there was tired enough to fall asleep instantly. my eyes shut and given the conditions phosphorescence in the water know- Well 9.30pm turned to 10.30 and when it is a miracle that I did not capsize. ing how excited I have been on other I thought of taking a sleeping pill at Eventually I called John over and trips when we have discovered it. 11.30 I remembered that my first aid holding onto his kayak was able to Firstly I said I couldn’t care less but kit was in the packed kayak. Not want- shut my eyes and not concentrate for later remarked that I had been seeing ing to wake the others and sure I a few minutes. When I had recovered lights before my eyes the whole night would fall asleep I didn’t go and get a bit, held his kayak while he emptied and for some reason we thought that them. By 12.30 I concluded that it was water I would then paddle on for a few was hang of a funny. I also remarked too late to take any as everyone was minutes until I had to repeat the proc- that I thought the reason I was so relying on me to wake them. So I did ess. To describe the agony of what debilitated was from having to sup- NOT SLEEP AT ALL, which was a this entailed is impossible except to port his kayak while he piddled into a total disaster. I did think of saying we say it was the most intense pain I have bottle. The skill with which he tailed would have to delay the trip but given ever had to endure. At the time I me in the very rough conditions and in the ideal weather forecast and the fact vowed I would gladly swap for tooth the dark is exceptional, and on the 20 that I had previously managed 30- and ear ache simultaneously. times or more times he manoeuvred hour stints without sleep I thought I his kayak into position next to me would be fine. Also I didn’t want to let After a couple of hours of this stop without smashing our kayaks is a feat the others down. It did mean however start paddling I felt myself going into of incredible skill. Terry as well dis- that when we departed I had already overdrive. Suddenly I could see again played exceptional skill in tailing me been awake for 26 hours. and my mind was responding nor- on the other side and somehow man- mally. I was ecstatic! Joyfully I an- aging to remain in contact with us John managed to delay our departure nounced to the others that I had come without colliding with us. At times we by running back to find his camera he through it and would be OK. The would be swamped in a deluge of

14 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

white water and the kayaks hurled Somehow I kept the presence of mind confidence, which made the rough con- down 3 to 5 meter swells in the dark- to ensure that paddles were not dam- ditions even more difficult to handle. ness. Added to this Terry was suffer- aged between the kayaks and to re- ing from sea sickness. main aware of our proximity to the At the risk of repetition I can only cliffs. Although at times I was totally describe the next six hours as the most At some time after midnight sleep disorientated and had to consult the agonising time imaginable. The frus- deprivation finally won and I could deck compass and take some time to tration and mental anguish that goes not paddle a stroke. Smashing my get my bearings. with 50 hours plus of sleep depriva- paddle into my face, screaming, cry- tion has to be experienced to be be- ing or whatever I tried to do to force Knowing that we were still 6 to 8 lieved. I would have to hit, splash or my mind to operate failed to make any hours paddling away from False En- bite myself, cry, scream, eat, or drink difference. I knew it was simply a trance I was determined to make the constantly simply to maintain con- matter of time before I capsized and in effort to paddle as soon as we could centration for a few seconds. A few my present state I doubted my ability see a little better. I was not looking times my mind would shut down no to roll. John and I rafted up and basi- forward to it and knew it was going to matter what I did and fortunately John cally decided that all we could do was be the most agonising experience of was there to catch me as I started to hang grimly on to each others kayaks, my life. If at dawn we discovered we fall over. Even the sudden starts as I attempt to remain upright and off the were more than 60 kms from safety I woke failed to revive me for more cliffs and drift at the mercy of the would have been devastated. Despite than a few seconds and so the agony wind and waves until daylight. It was the whole night been close to the of forcing myself to stay awake con- impossible to actually sleep having to edge, I never seriously considered try- tinued. At least with daylight I could hold onto the deck lines. Hands and ing to fire my EPIRB and abandoning judge waves and swells and was able fingers were severely mauled and on the paddle. Probably because I knew to brace at appropriate times. After numerous occasions waves almost the authorities would not have been another few hours I began to feel toppled both of us. We were con- able to affect a rescue before dawn drugged and could feel my reactions stantly wet and cold and our backs anyway and because I knew we had seconds late. At times I felt I was were rubbed raw against the cockpit the whole next day to make it. At one drifting all over the ocean and could sides. Every so often John would or- time we passed within a kilometre of not keep a straight line. der me to paddle on my side or push a a fishing boat and I would have loved particular rudder so we could work to have paddled up to him to ask some I found talking helped me stay awake out to sea away from the cliffs. innocuous question like, "what was but it was too difficult to keep station the cricket score.” To have witnessed with the others. Finally after 30 hours The wind continued to strengthen all the absolute disbelief on his face at at sea and 56 hours since I had slept, night and the seas to lift. The moon seeing a ‘kayak’ out there on such a we landed at Dulverton Bay. We met disappeared behind some clouds and night would have been worth another our welcoming support crew and stag- at about 1.45am, it set leaving us on an hour of agony. {perhaps not worth gered up the beach. I was too tired to inky black ocean. The next five hours that much but it certainly would have feel any real sense of achievement. or so seemed like days and for the rest been great!} All I wanted to do was sleep. Instinct of my life the images in my semi- took over and we carried the kayaks conscious mind of that time will be The paddle ahead seemed impossible up the beach and sorted out some of intensely imprinted on my memory. and the others were surprised when I the gear. Somehow I survived another At one time I asked John the time and said, "Let’s try paddle." We pushed half an hour before going to sleep in was determined to last an hour before Terry off first and then I cleared our Les’s tent. I woke two hours later asking again. When I was sure at least raft. John from having been in a completely dehydrated and still feel- an hour had passed I asked again. It cramped position all night, missed a ing like I was drunk. We took a walk was torture to be told that only 15 paddle stroke and went over. He to the top of the cliffs. The wind was minutes had passed. The pain I felt missed his roll but fortunately was still howling and the sea was very was physical despite knowing it was able to shout out as he went under and rough. We took some photographs. I as a result of mental tiredness. It felt capsized. Terry heard him and imme- felt very tired again, so had something much like the time I was in hospital diately started back paddling towards to eat and passed out in the tent. I slept with a broken neck waiting for my him. John is not a strong swimmer and like the dead for 11 hours and did not morphine shot, except this time there somehow lost hold of his kayak, which wake despite the tent virtually wrap- was no relief in sight. Terry rafted up quickly blew out of reach. Terry ping itself around my head as guy with us for the last few hours and the reached John quickly and executed a ropes and pegs broke in the wind. image of us drifting on the black an- magnificent rescue under the condi- gry ocean like so much driftwood tions. Once I saw Terry had things The training and conditioning obvi- must have been an interesting sight. under control and he said he didn’t ously worked because the next day I Somehow we managed to keep to- want a third boat in, I paddled back to felt fine except for bruised hands from gether although at times the kayaks pick up some of John’s gear. John for the rafting up. We debated at some were nearly wrenched from our grasp. the next hour or so suffered a loss of length the possibility of completing

15 No. 97 February - March 2002 the 32km stage to Shark Bay that day. immobilisers, hot wire the car and To Les for all the hundreds of hours of However the wind howled unabated struggle to reach us on shocking roads. planning and organisation. For keep- and we would really look stupid if we I sympathised with them and did not ing me in check with some of my had some drama on the last stage after feel too affronted. We packed the ve- more hair brained schemes. For the the saga of the cliffs and with a strong hicle in virtual silence, which was friendship, support, paddling trips, wind warning in effect. So we had a unlike our usual excited manner at the equipment and press coverage over great relaxing day in Dulverton. end of a trip. Especially this trip! the years. For undertaking to organise Played beach golf, fished and again Fortunately the sombre mood did not the support logistics for this trip and walked the cliffs. Watching the seas last and we soon were able to accept it then joining the support when his wrist at dusk from the cliff tops and imagin- as part of the nature of such trips. was injured. ing my small fibreglass craft on the relentless turbulent swells gave me We reached home at 3am in the morn- To Terry for teaching me the art of the first inkling of a sense of achieve- ing feeling a little tired. There was pacing myself. For all the interesting ment in what we had just achieved. I some analysis of the trip on the way stories. Sing alongs at sea and support was again humbled by the achieve- home but I guess we all had our own on the cliff section. It was great know- ment of Paul Caffyn in tackling the thoughts on the trip and hopefully this ing a person of his great skill was in cliffs alone in the other direction. report is not too different to the recol- close attendance. lections of the others. These thoughts The next day we awoke to an easing are essentially a compilation of the To Marion for the tremendous com- wind and so prepared for the last stage. notes in my diary. I have not had time mitment she undertook to support the John went in search for that usual last to edit much and have written this as trip. It was invaluable having her in piece of equipment before we thoughts came to mind. support and we can never really ap- launched over the rock shelf and preciate all it entailed. To Gary and through a small wave that was break- What next? Is always the question but Carolyn Nixon for their hospitality in ing at the shelf edge. We paddled on a somehow this time I have avoided Geraldton and for making the com- lumpy sea caused by the rebound post expedition depression and have mitment to meet us at False Entrance. waves off the cliffs. In many ways the gladly adjusted to ‘civilisation’. Gary loses some credibility however section of cliffs to Steep Point were for scoring three holes in one and the most spectacular. With huge un- As a final note I would like to say beating me at beach golf. dercut caves, massive columns of thanks: To John for ALL the expedi- spray as waves smashed into the cliffs tions, friendship, support, training To Ken Wilson for his wonderful hos- and spectacular rock formations. It trips, discussions, kayak repairs, pad- pitality. Taking in a group of stran- was great paddling into Shark Bay dle trials, coffees on the beach, allow- gers into his home and making us feel and we took a number of photographs. ing me to cramp your tent and for so welcome is truly a remarkable tes- We had finally achieved the goal we being the paddling partner supreme. I tament to a great person. had set and had conquered those cliffs. apologise for ALL the scrapes I have It is hard to describe all the emotions led you into. John is the most humble Finally to my family who have had to and feelings and adequately describe person I know and yet in many ways put up with ‘the obsession’ and all that the experience in its entirety. My has the most to be proud about par- it entailed to make it happen. thoughts turned to my wife and sons ticularly in paddling achievements. THANKS - Tel Williams and I was suddenly looking very much His willingness to help, share and be forward to going home. part of so many hair-brained ideas Below: from left, Les, Terry, makes him unique. John, and Tel (waving) The paddle in the clear aquamarine waters of Shark Bay was fantastic. We paddled for about 6km into the bay and were relieved to see Les and Marion driving towards us. John and I were preparing for our traditional Eskimo roll when Les got out of the car and swore and blasted me in no uncertain terms for being a moron. This tended to detract from the mo- ment somewhat and the tradition ended there and then. He and Marion had had a shocking morning reaching Shark Bay due to a flat battery. I was blamed for having left the radio on which later turned out not to be the case. However, they had to rip out

16 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

ing morning smoko. He seemed to be Our ‘paddock’ was enclosed by two OVERSEAS TRIP content to stay there, and after a quar- spools of halibut fishing line (30kg ter hour, we carried on. test). The square measured 10m on REPORT each side. The two ‘wires’ were held Our route now turned south, between up by a guyed out ski pole in each INTO THE a series of small islands, separated by corner, the ‘wires’ being 30cm and FORBIDDEN ZONE a 1km wide channel. While travelling 60cm above the ground. In opposite (Baffin Island) down that channel we saw three more corners, tied into the line were two by Kevin Killilea bears that day, usually one per island. 120 decibel sounding personal alarms. The theory was, if some creature Several days later, while stopped at breached the perimeter, the alarm From late July to late August, Nancy the mouth of Victoria Bay, awaiting a would sound, waking us in time to Pfeiffer and I spent a month paddling favourable tide, we saw a sow and two take some corrective action. Usually, the north side of Frobisher Bay (Baffin cubs grazing high on a ridge above us. we selected a spot 50 to 100m outside Island), along the south shore of Hall They took no notice of us and we the ‘wire,’ away from the tents, for the Peninsula, starting in Iqualuit, the capi- departed after observing them for the kitchen. Normally, we cooked below tal of Nunavut. We had done a bit of better part of a day. Our objective was the high tide and stored the gear above. research, and knew we’d likely en- the head of the bay, where we planned This evening we did as noted. We counter polar bears (ursus maritimus). to camp, then walk to the pass above headed for bed in our respective tents So we brought along a marine shot- to suss out the ice situation at the around 22:00 hours. gun and various bear deterrents. mouth of Cumberland Sound. It had been a drizzly day, and as evening At about 01:30 a low grumbling growl One morning, as we entered Countess approached, the fog descended. Turn- was heard above the tents. I popped of Warwich Sound, we decided to ing into Victoria Bay at 18:00 hours, out of my tent first, and in the light of have a wee spell on the first island as we caught the flood tide. It was per- the stronger head torch which I had, we entered the sound. It seemed fectly calm, in what had become in- saw yet another sow and two cubs. Sumner Island was a good spot to get creasing alpine country, after the roll- Shouting next door to Nancy, she re- out, stretch and scout the route to the ing hills of upper Frobisher Bay. plied she’d heard them also, and would south from an easily accessed, promi- be out soon with the shotgun. First, nent ridge. As we approached the We paddled up the centre of Victoria she fired a signal flare over their heads. beach, Nancy was about 100m ahead Bay, taking advantage of the push. As This seemed to spook them. For good of me, and 200m from shore. She we neared the head of the bay, we saw measure, she followed it up with a mentioned that she saw a bear half- yet another nanoq, as the Inuit refer to ‘screamer’ from the shotgun. The way down a 500m high hill, descend- the white bears, on our proposed beach. bears departed, out of sight. We con- ing rapidly toward our beach. Nancy While coming up the bay, we had ferred, standing outdoors, inad- then turned left, parallel to the beach noticed a small peninsula on the north equately attired in the cold, near freez- and increased her paddling rate. Casu- side that had a campable beach. So we ing rain. The consensus was to wait ally, I inquired about where she was turned about and headed for the pe- until daybreak, pack camp, and de- going. She replied that her intentions ninsula. As we approached the beach, part. It was agreed to stand watch with were to go where I was going. We saw a good look around failed to reveal the shotgun and head torch, spelling a hut about 2km up the sound, to the any potential rivals. Being mid-Au- each other on the hour. It was my lot left, back on the mainland. Thus, we gust, now at 63˚ north latitude, the to retire first, though I did not get back decided to head for it. In the meantime midnight sun was gone and there were to sleep again for some unexplained the bear had rapidly descended to the several hours of darkness, accentu- reason. beach, and hopped in the water, about ated by the drizzle and fog. We landed 500m behind us. and assessed the beach. Surprisingly, After my hour of respite was up, I we found the coal dump Martin turned out and relieved Nancy. She At this point, Nancy withdrew our Frobisher had deposited there in the ducked into her tent and soon I could shotgun from the dry bag on her fore- 1580’s. hear her snoring softly. As she seemed deck and inquired if I would mind to be resting comfortably, I stood rafting up with her, in the eventuality There was an adequate patch of real watch until daybreak. At that time, I it was necessary to fire the shotgun. estate for the tents to be put up within roused her and we walked amongst The bear seemed to be swimming the bear fence. One knows that most the rocks to find the remnants of our about one half times the speed we rural Kiwis are fair, fencing artisans, kitchen, which the bears had sampled. were paddling. We carried on down but the finer points of real rural life We spied the bears sleeping quietly at the sound, passing a rocky islet on our has not been experienced, until travel- the inner end of the peninsula, several right, about halfway to the hut. The ling in ursus maritimus country, thus, hundred meters away. We policed bear went ashore at the islet, while we experiencing the joy of erecting and our kitchen gear and returned to pack landed at the hut. The hut was aban- disassembling the ‘wire’ at each camp. camp. The bears seemed to have heard doned, though fairly solid. We us, and were getting up. watched the bear for a bit, while hav-

17 No. 97 February - March 2002

While Nancy stood watch, I packed. would not, Nancy would fire a were about out of bear deterrent items, All the myriad camp items take time screamer or popper at her, causing her we chucked the last of our gear in our to pack, even without a fence to disas- to return back toward where she had kayaks, shoved off, and headed back semble tidily. The sow and cubs were come from. toward Iqualuit, out of the ‘Forbidden curious. Over the time it took me to Zone.’ pack up, Nancy was engaged in a This to and fro-ing went on over the dance with the sow. The sow would time it took me to pack up. It seemed (Kevin Killilea leads a charmed sum- advance a bit, Nancy would advance, every quarter hour or so, Nancy would mer life, heading to Alaska, Green- then the sow would stop. The sow have to fire again, as the sow had land or Arctic Canada during our would advance a bit more, and Nancy crossed what Nancy had determined southern winter, then heads south for willed her to retreat. When the sow to be the ‘line in the sand’. Just as we a working summer in the Antarctic.)

NEW ZEALAND TRIP REPORT

STEWART ISLAND kayak. An outgoing tide was causing clear water and plentiful bird life until a bumpy patch at the Bluff Harbour we reached Smokey Bay on the north- CIRCUMNAVIGATION entrance but otherwise conditions ern-most coast. A small surf allowed February 2002 couldn’t have been more perfect. an incident free landing, and we dis- by Ian Algie covered a hunter’s bivvy close to the Ruapuke and Bird Islands were on shore, where camp was set up for the Max Grant and Dave Herrington had our left and gave good indications of night. The hunters had left deer car- been planning a paddling trip to Stew- our position as we paddled south. An casses unburied, so a strong smell art Island for some time following Albatross wheeled across our bows, pervaded the site. Not to mention their successful Chatham Islands ven- and Max assured me that was a good squadrons of hungry sandflies around, ture, so a few months ago a plan was omen. but luckily we discovered an insect hatched to paddle across Foveaux repellent coil, which kept them at bay Strait then try for a circumnavigation After an enjoyable 5.5 hour trip we in the hut. of the Island. entered Half moon Bay, and landed on a sandy beach in front of the local After a few light showers of rain over- I was very happy to be able to accom- Oban pub. A few tourists checked us night we set off again with light north- pany these two very experienced Sea out as we made our way to Innes’s erlies and a calm sea, making our way Kayaking Gurus on what turned out Backpackers where we shared the south now, with Codfish Island [an to be a great trip. Being already down warm welcome with others from all important bird reserve] on our right. in Dunedin, helping my daughter get points of the globe. We were able to The paddle across Mason Bay was a set up in a new flat, the two hour leave our excess gear at Innes’s, so long one, but a friendly seal kept us journey to Bluff wasn’t a problem and next morning we packed a week’s entertained until we landed at the I arrived there late in afternoon but the plus provisions into our kayaks and southern end of the bay, where we weather didn’t look good with a brisk set off again to attempt an anticlock- walked inland to inspect the old south-east wind whipping up white- wise circumnavigation of Stewart Is- Kilbride homestead. A settlement was caps in the harbour. My tent blew land. We were told by local radio planned here in the 1890’s but never away from me twice while I was try- operators that the settled weather was eventuated with the homestead being ing to erect it in the campground. forecast to linger around for a few the only building left. The windblown more days, when Dave contacted them trees gave an indication of the SW Max and Dave arrived at 2am after an to pass on our intentions. wind strength that is common here. almost non-stop drive south off the ferry. Max set up his tent, but Dave First stop was at Port William, an Our maps showed water flowing be- curled up under his groundsheet next idyllic spot with sparkling mica in the tween Ernest Island and the mainland to the truck until daybreak where we sand, where we lunched with a DoC but we carried our kayaks over a 100m rose to a clear blue sky with a very hut supervisor at a picnic table. We all sandbar that had formed. The launch gentle breeze from the north-east. tried to guess his nationality as he was from the south side of Ernest Island reading a book with unrecognisable was our first encounter with big surf After organising to store our vehicles print. After a few wrong guesses, he and we had a few anxious moments and placing most of our heavier gear informed us he was an Israeli, and the when we thought we’d lost Dave, but on the Foveaux Express Ferry we book was ‘Alice in Wonderland,’ he appeared unscathed and we carried packed up our kayaks and launched written in Hebrew. on south, but it was obvious a weather over a rocky breakwater, with Max change was coming with the wind being understandably concerned about We paddled on past bush covered picking up from the south-west. The scratching his brand new ‘Torres’ headlands, marvelling at the crystal plan was to push as far south as possi-

18 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

ble and land at either Easy Harbour or that the sea lions were understandably pointed with, as it was a trifle over- Flour Cask Bay. The sea depth right avoiding, and had a quiet night save cooked. up to the sheer cliff faces of 60 to 80m for the occasional cough from the was causing the big swell from the locals. Special thanks to Dave for the use of south-west to rebound off and cause his Marine Radio, which kept us in massive waves and the decision to Next morning we set off around South touch with the Stewart Island Radio turn back to Doughboy Bay was a Cape towards our next objective people, and also the G.P.S. which is good one. Pegasus Bay. The wind had turned an amazing piece of technology. around to the north- east, so after a The beach was sheltered with gentle hard slog all morning, we welcomed surf and we were able to find a good the tranquillity of Pegasus Harbour. campsite. Aircraft are able to land on This place has quite a history as a Editor’s Note: the beach here to drop off and pick up settlement was developed here in the Port Pegasus was the site of a ship- hunters. Dave went for a bush walk late 1890’s and is the site of the first building colony from 1825 to 1833 and spotted a Kiwi, also we found out ship built in NZ. (# see editors’ when a 49 ton schooner was finally later that a large pod of 300 whales endnote). We inspected the remains launched. However the first recorded had beached themselves there a few of an old wharf and refrigeration plant vessel was built at Luncheon Cove in years previously. and were told later by the Stewart Fiordland in the years 1795-96 (See Island Radio people that they even ‘Fiordland Explored’ by John Hall- The wind next morning was still blow- had their own hydro power generator. Jones). ing a good 35 knots from the south- west but with renewed vigour we de- Camping sites were hard to find but For any paddlers planning a visit to cided to give the section between we eventually came across Twilight Stewart Island, I would recommend Doughboy Bay and Easy Harbour Cove that afforded just enough room reading the following for background another try. After paddling for three in the bush to pitch our tents and with on history, weather and paddling con- hours against the wind and massive rain overnight, we packed up wet gear ditions: seas, we again retreated to Doughboy next morning. Bay. We were all broached two or - ‘Stewart Island Explored,’ a 216pp three times in the wild waves as we Picking up a favourable tidal flow illustrated early history of Stewart surfed back into the harbour. Max lost after leaving Pegasus Bay, we made Island, written by eminent Southland his bilge pump and myself a map in our way up the south-east coast pass- historian John Hall- Jones, published the surf on a beach that we visited on ing Owen Island and Lords River In- in 1994, with over 200 early photo- our way back to the campsite. let, then around Shelter Point. By this graphs and sketches; included are time the weather was deteriorating chapters on Port Pegasus and Masons By morning the wind had backed off again and we made for Port Adven- Bay. ISBN 0-908629-42-7 to a more reasonable 15 knots and we ture where we had a DoC hut to our- set out again to try and conquer this selves. Max soon had freshly caught - ‘Rakiura,’ A history of Stewart is- section for the third time, this time Blue Cod sizzling in a frying pan, land, written by Basil Howard, and successfully. After a well-earned stop after being deftly filleted by Dave. published by Reed in 1940. for snacks at Three Legged Woodhen, we paddled on past the granite domes After heavy rain overnight we set off - ‘Dark Side of the Wave,’ an account of Gog & Magog, encountering a on the homeward leg, reaching Ocean of the first kayak circumnavigation of mixed variety of sea conditions dur- Beach for lunch where a confused the island, written by the editor. ing the afternoon. Max remarked as wave pattern caused more than a few we made our way into Flour Cask Bay problems with landing and launching - ‘Stewart Island Circumnavigation,’ that the waves we encountered off again. Wind from the north-west, pick- trip report by Donna Hammond of the South West Cape were the biggest ing up to 25-30 knots, made the last fourth successful circumnavigation in he’d encountered in his paddling ca- leg back to Oban quite a challenge, April 1998; ‘Sea Canoeist Newslet- reer. especially across Paterson Inlet where ter,’ No. 76, August - September 1998 we were hit by squalls. Mid afternoon The one camping spot in the Flour we paddled back into Halfmoon Bay Kask Bay was occupied by some el- to end a seven day adventure that had ephant seals. As I ventured ashore to tested both our endurance and pad- check on suitable sites, I came across dling skills. a huge seal in long grass, which lunged at me. Dave and Max laughed as I Innes’s Backpackers was again wel- quickly retreated back to the beach coming with hot showers and soft with stained undies, and a startled beds and we shouted ourselves a meal look on my face. We eventually at the local pub. Dave ordered camped in the middle of a thistle patch, Muttonbird, which he was disap-

19 No. 97 February - March 2002

Or this one, for the Happy Jacks: has wonderfully useful and precise ‘If you decide to make this idyllic information, and very sound advice. BOOK REVIEWS island a stopover point, be aware that It is a book of both memories and there is only enough flat ground for anticipation. In short, it is a book of Title: ‘SEA KAYAKER’S GUIDE two or three tents, there are rats on the dreams for sea kayakers: to New Zealand’s UPPER NORTH island and it is infested with large ‘Sea kayakers go where most other ISLAND’ ants. Keep your hatch covers shut craft cannot venture. Those shallow Editor: Vincent Maire tight.’ reefs, rocky headlands, sea caves, tiny Published: 2001 islets, archways, sheer cliffs, deserted Publisher: New Holland Publishers There’s plenty of Vincent’s bluff hu- islands, remote beaches, endless estu- NZ mour. I particularly like the advice for aries and miles of coastal rock gar- ISBN: 1 877246 71 9 a trip around the Auckland Harbour dens can only be truly appreciated Cover: Softback wharves: from the cockpit of a sea kayak.’ Contents: 176 pp, maps, central col- ‘As with any working port, boat traf- our plate section. fic is intense... making this a poten- Most kayak shops have this book in Size: 210x146mm tially dangerous part of the harbour stock. If you are having trouble get- RRP: $29.95 for sea kayakers. Generally speaking, ting a copy, contact Vincent by Availability: NZ book & kayak shops if you get run down it will be your email on [email protected]. Reviewed by: Kerry Howe fault and you won’t get any sympathy (Speech given for Vincent Maire’s from anyone, including other sea kay- book launch.) akers.’ CLASSIC BOOK This is a wonderful book. It covers the Then there are some passages which REVIEW coastline from the tip of the North border on poetry, not to mention a hint Island, down the entire east coast to of sensuality: Auckland, Coromandel Peninsula and ‘The Surville Cliffs [just around the Title: ‘Voyage to Greenland’ Great Barrier, plus bits of the Kaipara corner from North Cape] are fluted Subtitle: ‘A Personal Initiation into and Manukau Harbours. Vincent has like Doric columns. Unencumbered Anthropology’ an amazingly detailed familiarity with by scrub and lacking a rocky ledge, Author: Frederica de Laguna the coastline - from individual sea you can paddle close to these spec- Published: 1977 caves, to camping spots, to fresh wa- tacular cliffs and rub your hands down Publisher: WW Norton & Co. NY ter supplies, to shops. It’s a veritable the water-blasted flukes. This is the ISBN: 0 393 06413 1 mine of information, the result of years most northern point in New Zealand Cover: Hardback, dust jacket of passionate kayaking and careful and if you look back over your shoul- Contents: 285pp, maps, central B & observation. It is obviously a labour a der, you will see Cape Reinga in the W plate section. love. hazy-blue distance.’ Size: 230 x 150mm Availability: 2nd. hand shops or li- Throughout the carefully described Some scenes will be familiar to us all braries 75 kayak tours, there are readily di- in Auckland - who has not gasped at Reviewed by: Paul Caffyn gestible snippets of history, geology, the scene that unfolds as you round and botany, and information about the corner and start the descent into In 1928, while studying anthropology bird life. Sullivan’s Bay in the Mahurangi. at Columbia under eminent Professor Here’s Vincent’s description: Franz Boaz, Frederica de Laguna fell Apart from where to go and what to ‘Pause and use your map to identity madly in love with a young English- see, there’s an enormous amount of the six or so islands that lie below you. man who was planning a career as a common sense and advice about kay- To the north the Mahurangi Harbour mining engineer in the coal mines of aking, equipment, activities, camp- merges into a mangrove lined river. Wales. During a study tour to see ing, weather, and likely sea condi- The headlands of the Mahurangi pe- Eskimo collections at the National tions. Here’s a typical comment: ninsula are lined with white beaches Museum of Denmark in Copenhagen, ‘The journey from Bland Bay to North and to the south you may catch a Frederica met Danish anthropologists Head covers 6km of high cliffs and glimpse of beautiful Te Muri Beach. Dr. Therkel Mathiassen and Dr. Kaj rocky shorelines. Unless conditions This magnificent view will whet your Birket-Smith. The Eskimo collections are particularly calm, maintain a safe appetite for sea kayak exploration in had been brought back by the Fifth distance from the cliffs. As you round this stunning area.’ Thule Expedition (1921-24). the point you may find yourself pad- Mathiassen was being sent to Green- dling in confused tidal currents, but There’s a section of great colour pho- land by the Danish government to once inside the harbour entrance, sea tographs capturing the region’s many undertake an archeological survey, conditions will soften. Don’t forget moods. Many of them are taken by and when Frederica expressed her that fish and chip shop just across the Paul Buckley. desire to go on the survey, Mathiassen harbour at Oakura.’ For me, this book does many things. It asked her along as her assistant.

20 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

The book is a marvellous blend of Greenland, Frederica completed the superb vignette of that era. The ac- letters home to her family and ex- book but she delayed trying to find a count of her initiation as an anthro- cerpts from her journal. It is not a publisher until 1975, ‘because it was pologist is also the story of a young pithy, dry account of a dig and the so personal a record, and as a still woman in love with life and adven- specimens found, but a bubbly story active teacher I was shy of my stu- ture, savouring everything new and of Frederica’s first voyage to the Arc- dents.’ strange, embarking on her chosen pro- tic, the sight, smells and sounds of fession , and making a tough choice setting up camp on the barren rocky The 1929 Greenland that Frederica between marriage and a career. coast of West Greenland, the daily wrote about, no longer exists, apart chores of an archeological dig, and from displays in museums and picto- I can only suggest you keep an eye out seal hunting from kayaks. rial records. The black and white pho- in the second hand book shops for this tos and her descriptions of the classic title. One afternoon after a procession of Greenlanders and village life are a Paul Caffyn. kayakers towed the carcass of a white whale (beluga) to shore at the village of Qaitarmiut, Frederica was keen to THE ‘BUGGER!’ FILE try out a skin kayak. Although ini- PRACTISING went down I thought to myself ‘Oh tially accompanied by a rowboat for SH**!! I am alone out here, I don’t safety, she outdistanced the boat in a WET-EXITS by Peter Oliver know if I can get out of this thing few paddle strokes and went out to underwater, this water is really wet circumnavigate an offshore island. and this is really stupid.’ Notice this Mathiassen was not particularly I read with interest the comment stupid word starting to crop up more pleased with her kayaking, and kept referred to in the review of Robert and more! Anyway I decided it would warning Frederica how dangerous it Morris’ book on skin on frame boats be wise not to panic, threw my paddle was for a white person who ‘wasn’t, regarding baidarka, ‘ Overestimating away, grabbed both sides of the so to speak, born in a kayak.’ your skills on the water and building coaming and gave a frantic heave. and using this kayak before you are Nothing happened. Nothing happened In a letter home, written on the vessel ready could be deadly.’ three times. Luckily about then I sailing back to Denmark, Frederica realized that this wasn’t going to work notes, ‘Dearest Family: Tonight we I built myself an Aleut baidarka as my and I calmed myself down enough to will pass Cape Farewell, and then first kayak and sized it to fit me at 6’ release my sprayskirt. After that, nothing of my Greenland experience 2”. I had very little paddling although it was a little tight, I came will be left to me but memories. I experience at this stage but out easily enough and bobbed up into knew that I should have a good time nevertheless kept the hull cross- that lovely morning air. when I sailed, but how could I realize section shallow and narrow to keep it the hold which this experience - the able. This made it a tight fit to get in I consider this whole episode was free life, the happy fascinating na- and out of. potentially dangerous; I should never tives, the absorbing work, and the have covered the distance I had loyal comradeship - has obtained over Over the next weeks I built up without going through this most basic me. I feel as if I could never be content experience in calm and choppy lake safety practice first. As it was I with ordinary living again, unless it water and then easy sea conditions. I recovered my paddle and swam the were to be broken by a return to the played around in shallow water boat ashore. I have done many wet Arctic. It makes me very sad to know bracing over Mercury Bay but for exits since and learned to roll the boat that I have found my ideal vocation is whatever reasons I never tried a wet after a fashion but the story could such an inaccessible place.’ exit in a controlled situation and this have ended differently. This especially could have been a bad move. as at one stage, in the process of After a visit to Wales and that, ‘dreary fitting myself tightly in the boat to countryside with its piles of mine tail- Eventually one morning I paddled out help learning to roll, I snugged my ings, where the pit ponies searched through small surf, went around the backrest well forward and luckily, on for grass, and the grim towns,’ coastline a ways then across the mouth a whim, tried to climb out while still Frederica resumed her studies at Co- of this bay and back inshore to a on land. I found that there was no way lumbia in 1930 and after some serious moored boat to collect my life jacket possible of getting out of the boat soul searching, sent the engagement which I had left aboard the day before. without releasing the backrest adjuster ring back to the Welsh mining engi- I hooked that out with the superlative which was really awkward and nigh neer. She went on to a very distin- reach of my Greenland paddle and on impossible in a state of panic upside guished teaching career as an anthro- put it on (paddling without it was down in the water. Needless to say I pologist. stupid for a start) and headed back in built my footrests back instead and I to the beach. Some 150m from shore am still alive and enjoying kayaking. After the 1929 field season north of something happened and in slow Peter Oliver Upernarvik, on the West Coast of motion I rolled upside down. As I

21 No. 97 February - March 2002

THE ‘BUGGER!’ FILE His supply list included a prismatic Helicopters Over HISTORY compass, charts, water, condensed Cammeray! milk, chocolate and cheese. A pair of binoculars was not included and his by Chris James Oskar Speck and His journal suggests that at one stage he Amazing Seven Year was so down and out he had to sell So what happens when your Paddling Journey! An them. Emergency Personal Indicating Radio Incredible Paddle from Beacon (EPIRB) goes off in your The Journey house? I had an unusual chain of events Germany to Australia Oskar’s voyage took him down the this morning & thought you may want by Peter Osman. Danube through Austria to Budapest to file it under "for future reference". and Belgrade, then through Bulgaria Setting Out into the Black Sea and via Turkey to I was rummaging in my gear cupboard The 16mm film clip shows a fresh Veles, Thessalonika, Andros Island, (room) at about 6.30 am and heard a faced man wearing a fisherman’s cap. Rhodes island, and Lemesos. distinct electronic beeping. I feared It was 1932 in Ulm on the Danube and the worst and after much rummaging Oskar Speck was 25 years old and out By 1934 he had arrived at his origi- had my fears confirmed the offending of work. He had been forced to close nally intended destination Cyprus. A device: the EPIRB had been activated. down an electrical contracting busi- film clip at this time shows him lightly ness and had to lay off 21 people. He bearded with a mature, rather serious I tried the usual spectrum of responses: owned a folding kayak called demeanour. The thirst for adventure Turn it off?: It wasn’t turned on (safety Sonnenschein (Sunshine), was a mem- must have captivated him for he didn’t seal still intact). Stuck test button? No ber of a boating club and had ten years stop as planned but diverted to Aleppo such luck. At least the antenna was experience kayaking. in Syria and travelled down the down! As the prospect of helicopters Euphrates where he suffered two at- grew larger in my mind, I tried the Oskar wrote in his journal, ‘All I wanted tacks first by some Arab villagers distributor, GME Electrophone. was to get out of Germany for a while.’ who fired on him and again by the So he set off down the Danube for crew of a dhow who were upset be- Superb. An Australian distributor with Cyprus to find work in the copper mines cause he wouldn’t drink with them, so their office attended and a and just possibly adventure. they took up the chase in a rowing knowledgeable tech. support team on boat shooting as they rowed. site at 6.30 am. How rare is that? After seven years and 50,000km he wound up on Sabai Island off the But no matter on he went through Their answer? Tune the clock radio to coast of Papua New Guinea in the Bagdad to Al Basrah, and along the about 100 on the FM dial and listen Torres Strait. It was then 20th Sep- Persian coast to Bander e Abbas, for a signal. Yep, loud and clear signal, tember 1939. During the journey he Ormar and Karachi. Then down the picked up from two brick rooms away. used five kayaks supplied by the manu- entire west coast of India during which This is not a drill, not a stuck test facturer ‘Pionier’ who helped to spon- time he was arrested and held captive button. So where were the planes, sor his journey. Agfa provided him for a year by a local village. By 1936 choppers and rescue crew? with film and the exhibition shows he had visited Ceylon, paddled up the many snippets of life in Indonesia and east coast of India and arrived at The tech. support advice? Lock the Papua New Guinea. Chittagong from where he journeyed sucker in the microwave oven (!) and along the coast of Burma to Bassein, call AUSAR. Don’t transport the unit During the seven year voyage he cap- Rangoon, Phuket and via the Straits until the batteries die, lest we set sized ten times in the surf. of Malacca to Singapore. AUSAR chasing the courier. AUSAR were duly informed and agreed with Typical of the boats he used was a By 1938 he had crossed to Sumatra the response, (noting that I shouldn’t ‘Pionier Kajak Modelle 1936.’ This and travelled down the Dutch East turn on the microwave). was a double seater, folding kayak Indies visiting Batavia, Sourabaya and made of laminated rubber and canvas Bali. While in the East Indies he was I'm now on file as a hoaxer and over wood. It looked rather like a again attacked, at night by 20 thugs potential waster of hard-won Klepper. The spare seat was removed who tied him and beat him badly government revenues. Lucky this to allow for storage and the boat could enough to rupture an eardrum. He didn’t happen in a month's time, we'd carry a third of a ton. It weighed 65 lb, escaped while the gangsters were have been in Tasmania. The lesson was 18 feet long, 30 inch beam and asleep by getting to his boat and using learned? I've purchased a small with a freeboard of 9 inches. It was a knife hidden there to cut the ropes microwave for extended touring. capable of being paddled at 3.5 knots binding him. In Sermata he reported Cheers - Chris fully loaded and could reach 6.5 knots, the attack and got medical treatment. in calm water, using an 18 square foot Six of the captors were arrested but it (Reprinted from The Ocean Planet gaff sail. was a year before he could continue ‘WetWorld’ No. 8)

22 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

his journey island hopping to Papua tually made an escape and attempted used at the time of the voyage. If any New Guinea. to cycle to Sydney. But he was ar- of your readers know anything more rested again in Melbourne and trans- about Oskar Peter Rattenbury and I During this period he filmed his boat ferred to an internment camp in would be very keen to learn. The being carried ashore by the locals. Loveday, South Australia. The mu- Maritime Museum are continuing to The film shows how dugouts with seum exhibition shows an elegant research the story and we would like outriggers were manufactured and model of his kayak made during this to pass on anything we find to them. paddled (dugouts were introduced to internment. It is fashioned out of cop- the Yanuwa people in Australia by the per and mounted on black painted Indonesians where they replaced the wood. BOAT NOTICES bark canoes over a period of 300 years (Maritime Safety Authority) and saved many lives, but that’s an- After the War 14 Feb 2002 other story). Snippets of film show Four days after being released Oskar VISIBILITY OF KAYAKS the delighted winner of a cockfight- had started work as an opal miner at ing contest dancing with his victori- Lightning Ridge. He followed a suc- There have been a number of colli- ous bird, elegant grass thatched tem- cessful career as an opal cutter even- sions and many near miss situations ples and houses, rope being scorched tually retiring to a house at Kilcare on involving kayaks and other vessels on in an open fire, presumably to remove the Central Coast of New South Wales. lakes, bays and on the coast. excess strands of fibre or perhaps to He seems to have continued paddling It is the duty of every vessel’s skipper increase its strength. Baskets are wo- after the war. to keep a careful lookout using all ven from palm leaves, people carry available means and power craft must enormous inverted pyramid loads of There are three references on the web. give way to kayaks. However, in real- fruits on their heads, and highly for- One was an account of an incident ity it is very difficult, and at times malised sword fighting contests are with a boat borrowed from Oskar by almost impossible, to see kayaks at a filmed. Everywhere there is dancing Carl Toovey, a kayaking marathon distance of more than a few metres. both ceremonial and informal. champion. Kayaks are very low on the water, http://members.ozemail.com.au/~riv- easily lost from sight amongst even Oskar left for Papua New Guinea in ers97/PaddlingPeople.htm. small waves and do not appear on 1939. His films now show turtles radar screens. mating and being captured for food. The other is a brief reference in a Young boys fish with spears, bows German folding kayak company’s web It is essential, therefore, that kayak and arrows. A sticky fondue like com- page: skippers make sure they can be read- munal soup is made from small fish/ http://www2.utsidan.se/faltkajak/ ily seen by the operators of other shellfish. And there are pictures of expeditioner.htm. vessels. While brightly coloured hulls dancing, canoe races with many cap- Oskar Speck died childless in 1995 and clothing assist to some degree, a sizes and boys surfing on short planks and on the death of his partner Nancy much more effective means of being of wood - is this where surfing was Steele the notebooks and equipment seen is required. first developed? from his expedition were bequeathed to the Australian Maritime Museum A brightly coloured (orange or yellow) Internment where they are currently on display: flag on a whip or thin pole at least one Oskar left Papua New Guinea and http://www .anmm.gov.a u/ metre high and brightly coloured pad- arrived at the island of Sabai, about anrep99a.htm . dle blades both assist greatly if kayaks 150 kilometres from Thursday Island, are to be seen at a safe distance by day. in 1939, on the 20th September. It As far as I know the only detailed was two weeks after the start of World account of his voyage was in the Aus- It is necessary for kayaks to carry a War II. He was met by three local tralasian Post where it was published light when operating at night or dur- policemen who congratulated him and as a serial! ing twilight. Unless sidelights and a then arrested him. So now it was off sternlight are displayed, a white light by boat to mainland Australia where NOTE: If anyone has any further must be displayed in sufficient time to he was interned for six years. A note information that can help Peter in his prevent a collision. Kayaks should in the register of prohibited articles, research of this subject, please con- carry a bright torch to shine so that lists a collapsible rubber boat, a parcel tact him at: other vessels will be aware of their containing private papers, and a com- [email protected] position. pass. Footnote: I’ve collated notes taken from the exhibition being held in the The practice of carrying a flashing light Prominently displayed at the exhibi- Australian National Maritime Mu- or strobe light is dangerous. Such lights tion is a pennant swastika. Maybe it seum, from his 16mm film of the are used to indicate a person in the was in his luggage? If so it probably journey and from a Sydney Morning water after falling overboard. Other didn’t help! He was held first at Tatura Herald article. Geographical names vessels are likely to investigate allow- Camp, Victoria, from which he even- describing his route are mostly those ing close quarters situations to develop.

23 No. 97 February - March 2002 MAILED TO

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